Chapter III: Preface: p. ix

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS p. xxii

I
FROM LONDON TO NAINI TAL Pp. 1-3

II
Loads--A set of useful pack-saddle cases--Provisions and scientific
outfit--Clothes and shoes--Medicines--Under way--The first
march--Servants--How I came to employ faithful Chanden Sing pp. 4-10

III
Pithoragarh--Fakir women--A well-ventilated abode--Askote--The
Rajiwar and his people Pp. 11-16

IV
The Raots--A slippery journey--Superstitious notions--Anger and
jealousy--Friends--To the homes of the
savages--Photography--Habitations Pp. 17-26

V
A pilgrim from Mansarowar Lake--The spirits of the mountains--A
safeguard against them--Tibetan encampments--The Rajiwar--A
waterfall--Watermills Pp. 27-34

VI
Highways and trade routes--The Darma route--The Dholi River--A rough
track connecting two valleys--Glaciers--Three ranges and their
peaks--Altitudes--_Darma, Johar_, and the _Painkhanda_ Parganas--The
highest peak in the British Empire--Natural boundaries Pp. 35-40

VII
The word _Bhot_ and its meaning--Tibetan influence--Tibetan
abuses--The ever-helpful Chanden Sing--The first Shoka
village--Chanden Sing in disgrace--Weaving-loom--Fabrics--All's well
that ends well Pp. 41-45

VIII
Prayers by wind-power--Photography under difficulties--A night of
misery--Drying up--Two lady missionaries--Their valuable work--An
interesting dinner party--An "eccentric" man's tea party Pp. 46-52

IX
Discouraging reports--A steep ascent--How I came to deserve the name
of "monkey"--Hard at work--Promoted in rank--Collapse in a gale of
wind--Time and labour lost Pp. 53-56

X
The _Nerpani_, or "waterless track"--Exaggerated accounts--A long
shot--The rescue of two coolies--Picturesque Nature--An involuntary
shower-bath--The _Chai_ Pass Pp. 57-62

XI
A series of misfortunes--Tibetan atrocities on British
subjects--Tibetan exactions--Revolting cruelty to one of her
Majesty's subjects--Assault on a British officer--A smart British
Envoy Pp. 63-68

XII
Tibetan threats--My birthday--Ravenous dogs--A big dinner--Shoka
hospitality Pp. 69-73

XIII
Shoka hospitality--How I obtained much information--On a
reconnoitring trip--A terrible slide Pp. 74-80

XIV
A palaver--To see is to believe--Dangers and perils on the snow and
ice--_Thar_ and _Ghural_--Stalking--A tiring climb to 16,000
feet--The collapse of a snow bridge Pp. 81-85

XV
An earthquake--Curious notions of the natives--A Shoka tailor and
his ways--The arrival of silver cash--Two rocks in the
Kali--Arrogance of a Tibetan spy Pp. 86-91

XVI
The _Rambang_--Shoka music--Love-songs--Doleful singing--Abrupt
ending--Solos--Smoking--When marriage is contemplated--The
_Delang_--Adultery--Punishment Pp. 92-97

XVII
FUNERAL RITES: Departure of the Soul--Cremation--Amusement of the
dead man's soul--The lay figure--Feasting--Doleful
dance--Transmigration of the soul--Expensive ceremonies--Offerings
before the lay figure--Dancing and contortions--Martial dances--Solo
dances--The animal to be sacrificed and the lay figure--Chasing the
animal from the village--Tearing out its heart--The yak driven over
a precipice--Head shaving--A sacred cave Pp. 98-110

XVIII
Touching Shoka farewell--Feelings curiously expressed--Sobs and
tears--The start--A funereal procession--Distressed father and
mother--Kachi and Dola the worse for drink--Anxious moments--The
bridge destroyed Pp. 111-115

XIX
A dangerous track--Perilous passage--A curious bridge over a
precipice--Pathetic Shoka custom--Small misadventures--A grand
reception--Tea for all tastes Pp. 116-119

XX
Dr. Wilson joins my expedition for a few marches--What misdeeds a
photographic camera can do--Weighing, dividing, and packing
provisions--Two extra men wanted--The last friendly faces Pp.
120-122

XXI
The Kuti Castle--Under way--Our first disaster--A cheerful and a
sulky coolie--Mansing--A brigand--A strange medley of followers--A
character--Tailoring--Fields of stones--Troublesome rivers--The
Jolinkan or Lebung Pass--Sense of humour--Pleased with small
comforts Pp. 123-130

XXII
Want of fuel--Cooking under difficulty--Mansing lost and
found--Saved from summary justice--Tibetan visitors--We purchase
sheep--The snow-line--Cold streams--The petrified _chapati_ and
human hand Pp. 131-136

XXIII
The scout's return--A small exploring party--The Mangshan glacier
Pp. 137-140

XXIV
Snow and troublesome _débris_--The doctor's sufferings--Kachi
disabled--Further trials--A weird apparition--Delirium--All
safe--The descent Pp. 141-147

XXV
The sources of the Kuti River--The Lumpiya glacier--The summit of
the range--Bird's-eye view of Tibet--Rubso frozen almost to
death--The Lumpiya Pass--Two coolies in distress Pp. 148-153

XXVI
Mysterious footprints--Brigand or spy?--Passes and tracks--Intense
cold--No fuel--A high flat plateau--Fuel at last!--Two spies in
disguise--What they took us for Pp. 154-157

XXVII
Lama Chokden--A Tibetan guard--The sacred Kelas--Reverence of my men
for the sacred Mountain--Trying hard to keep friends with the
gods--_Obos_--Water flowing to us Pp. 158-161

XXVIII
An extensive valley--Kiang, or wild horse--Their strange ways--The
Gyanema fort--Apprehension at our appearance--A parley--"Cut off our
heads!"--Revolt and murder contemplated--Hypocritica ways of Tibetan
officials--Help summoned from everywhere--Preparing for war Pp.
162-166

XXIX
Arrival of a high official--The Barca Tarjum--A tedious palaver--The
Tarjum's anxiety--Permission to proceed--A traitor--Entreated to
retrace our steps--Thirty armed horsemen--A pretty speech Pp.
167-173

XXX
Spying our movements--Disguised sepoys--A gloomy
look-out--Troublesome followers--Another march back--An amusing
incident Pp. 174-177

XXXI
An attempt that failed--A resolution--A smart Shoka lad--The plucky
Chanden Sing proposes to accompany me--Mansing the leper becomes my
servant's servant Pp. 178-181

XXXII
"Devil's Camp"--A fierce snowstorm--Abandoning our tents--Dangers
and perils in prospect--Collecting the men--One load too
many!--Another man wanted and found--A propitious night--Good-bye to
Wilson--The escape--Brigands Pp. 182-186

XXXIII
S.E. wind--Hungry and half frozen--Lakes at 18,960 feet above
sea-level--Cold food at high altitudes--Buried in snow--Mansing's
sufferings--Fuel at last Pp. 187-191

XXXIV
Dacoits--No nonsense allowed--A much-frequented region--A
plateau--The Gyanema-Taklakot track--A dangerous spot--Soldiers
waiting for us--Burying our baggage--Out of provisions--A fall into
the Gakkon River--A bright idea--Nettles our only diet Pp. 192-197

XXXV
All that remained of my men's provisions--The plan to enter the
fort--Appearance of yaks--A band of brigands--Erecting
fortifications--Changes in the temperature--Soldiers in search of us
Pp. 198-201

XXXVI
"Terror Camp"--Two more messengers leave camp--A tribe of Dogpas--A
strange sahib--Our messengers return from Taklakot--The account and
adventures of their mission--In great distress--Two fakirs who
suffered through me--Five hundred rupees offered for my head--The
Shokas want to abandon me--A plot--How it failed Pp. 202-206

XXXVII
A Tibetan guard's encampment--Nattoo volunteers to be a
guide--Treachery and punishment of the Shokas--All ways forward
barred to me--Evading the soldiers by another perilous march at
night--Mansing again lost--A marvellous phenomenon--Sufferings of my
men--Severe cold Pp. 207-210

XXXVIII
Night marching--The Lafan and Mafan Lakes--Tize, the sacred
Kelas--Rhubarb--Butterflies--A hermit Lama--More Dacoits--Surrounded
by them--Routed Pp. 211-216

XXXIX
Spied and followed by robbers--Jogpas' hospitality--Hares--Tibetan
charms resisted--Attempt to snatch Chanden Sing's rifle out of his
hands--The ridge between the Rakas and Mansarowar Lakes Pp. 217-219

XL
More robbers--The friends of Tibetan authorities--A snap-shot--A
meek lot--Prepossessing female and her curious ways--The purchase of
two yaks Pp. 220-224

XLI
Tibetan coats, hats, and boots--Why a Tibetan prefers to leave half
the chest and one arm bare--Ornamentations--Manner and
speech--Ignorance and superstition--Way of eating--Jogpa women and
children--Head-dress Pp. 225-230

XLII
A Daku's strange ideas--The ridge between the two lakes--Black
tents--Confronting the two lakes--A chain of high
peaks--Gombas--Change in the weather Pp. 231-234

XLIII
The Langa Tsangpo--A terrific storm--Drenched to the skin--Heavy
marching--Against the gods--Difficulty in finding the Lamasery and
village--A bark!--Arrival at last--Gentle tapping--Under a roof Pp.
235-238

XLIV
The interior of a _serai_--Vermin--Fish, local jewellery, and
pottery for sale--Favourite shapes and patterns--How pottery is made
Pp. 239-241

XLV
Friendly Lamas--Chanden Sing and Mansing purified--Mansing's
sarcasm--Pilgrims to Mansarowar and their privileges--For
luck!--Outside the Gomba Pp. 242-244

XLVI
Entering the Lamasery--The Lama's dwelling--Novices--Were we in a
trap?--Images--Oblations--Urghin--The holy water, the veil of
friendship, and absolution--Musical instruments, books, &c.--God and
the Trinity--Heaven and hell--A mystery Pp. 245-248

XLVII
The Jong Pen's statements regarding me--Sects of
Lamas--Lamaseries--Government allowance--Ignorance of the
crowds--How Lamas are recruited--Lamas, novices, and menials--Dances
and hypnotism--Infallibility--Celibacy and
vice--Sculptors--Prayer-wheels and revolving
instruments--Nunneries--Human bones for eating vessels and musical
instruments--Blood-drinking Pp. 249-256

XLVIII
Illnesses and remedies--Curious theories about fever--Evil
spirits--Blacksmith and dentist--Exorcisms--Surgical
operations--Massage and cupping--Incurable
illnesses--Deformities--Deafness--Fits and
insanity--Melancholia--Suicides Pp. 257-264

XLIX
A Tibetan medicine-man--Lumbago, and a startling cure for
it--Combustible fuses--Fire and butter--Prayers, agony and
distortions--Strange ideas on medicine Pp. 265-267

L
Tucker village--Chokdens--Houses--Flying prayers--Soldiers or
robbers?--A stampede--Fresh
provisions--Disappointment--Treachery--Shokas leave
me--Observations--Five men, all counted! Pp. 268-270

LI
The start with a further reduced party--A reconnaissance--Natural
fortress--Black tents and animals--On the wrong tack--Slings and
their use--A visit to a Tibetan camp--Mistaken for
brigands--Bargaining and begging Pp. 271-275

LII
What the men were like--Their timidity--Leather work--Metal
work--Blades and swords--Filigree--Saddles and harness--Pack saddles
Pp. 276-279

LIII
Rain in torrents--A miserable night--A gorge--A gigantic
inscription--Sheltered under boulders--A fresh surprise--Only two
followers left Pp. 280-282

LIV
My time fully occupied--Our own yak drivers--A heavy blow--Along the
stream--Soldiers in pursuit of us--Discovered Pp. 283-286

LV
An interview--Peace or war?--Gifts and the scarf of friendship--The
_Kata_--The end of a friendly visit Pp. 287-289

LVI
Rain in torrents--A swampy plain--The sun at last--Our yaks stolen
and recovered Pp. 290-294

LVII
Travelling Tibetans--Over a high pass--A friendly meeting--A
proffered banquet--Ascent to 20,000 feet--Looking for the Gunkyo
Lake--Surprised by a phantom army Pp. 295-297

LVIII
A sleepless night--Watching our enemy--A picturesque sight--A
messenger--Soldiers from Lhassa--Taken for a Kashmeree--The Gunkyo
Lake Pp. 298-301

LIX
In pleasant company--Unpopularity of the Lamas--Soldiers--Towards
the Maium Pass--Grass--Threats--Puzzled Tibetans--The Maium
Pass--Obos Pp. 302-305

LX
The Maium Pass--Into the Yutzang province--Its capital--The Doktol
province--Orders disregarded--The sources of the Brahmaputra--Change
in the climate--The valley of the Brahmaputra--Running risks Pp.
306-308

LXI
Expecting trouble--Along the Brahmaputra--A thunderstorm--A
dilemma--A dangerous river--Swamped--Saved--Night disturbers--A new
friend Pp. 309-312

LXII
Leaving the course of the river--A pass--An arid plain--More
vanishing soldiers--Another river--A _mani_ wall--_Mirage?_--A large
Tibetan encampment--The chain of mountains north of us Pp. 313-315

LXIII
A commotion--An invitation declined--The tents--Delicacies--The
_Chokseh_ Pp. 316-320

LXIV
Refusal to sell food--Women--Their looks and characteristics--The
_Tchukti_--A Lhassa lady Pp. 321-326

LXV
Polyandry--Marriage ceremonies--Jealousy--Divorce--Identification of
children--Courtship--Illegitimacy--Adultery Pp. 327-333

LXVI
Tibetan funerals--Disposal of their dead--By cremation--By
water--Cannibalism--Strange beliefs--Revolting barbarity--Drinking
human blood--The saints of Tibet Pp. 334-337

LXVII
Another commotion--Two hundred soldiers--A stampede--Easy
travelling--A long _mani_ wall--Mosquitoes Pp. 338-341

LXVIII
Washing-day--A long march--_Kiang_ and antelope--Benighted--The
purchase of a goat--Ramifications of the Brahmaputra--A
détour--Through a swamp--Mansing again lost and found Pp. 342-345

LXIX
The alarm given--Our bad manners--A peaceful settlement--A large
river--Gigantic peak--Again on marshy soil Pp. 346-348

LXX
Another Tibetan encampment--Uncontrollable animals--A big
stream--Washed away--In dreadful suspense--Rescuing the yak--Diving
at great altitudes and its effects--How my two followers got
across--A precarious outlook and a little comfort Pp. 349-351

LXXI
Hungry and worn--A sense of humour--Two buckets of milk--No food to
be obtained--Chanden Sing and Mansing in a wretched state--Their
fidelity--Exhaustion Pp. 352-354

LXXII
Eighty black tents--Starved--Kindly natives--Presents--Ando and his
promises--A Friendly Lama--A low pass--My plans Pp. 355-357

LXXIII
Strange noises--Ando the traitor--Purchasing provisions and
ponies--A handsome pony--Decoyed away from my tent and
rifles--Pounced upon--The fight--A prisoner Pp. 358-361

LXXIV
Chanden Sing's plucky resistance--Mansing secured--A signal--A
treacherous Lama--Confiscation of baggage--Watches, compasses and
aneroids--Fear and avidity--The air-cushion--Dragged into the
encampment Pp. 362-366

LXXV
A warning to my men--Calm and coolness--The Pombo's tent--Chanden
Sing cross-examined and flogged Pp. 367-369

LXXVI
Led before the tribunal--The Pombo--Classical Tibetan beyond
me--Chanden Sing lashed--The Lamas puzzled--A sudden change in the
Pombo's attitude Pp. 370-373

LXXVII
My note-books and maps--What the Lamas wanted me to say--My
refusal--Anger and threats--Ando the traitor--Chanden Sing's
heroism--A scene of cruelty--Rain Pp. 374-376

LXXVIII
A high military officer--A likely friend--A soldier and not a
Lama--His sympathy--Facts about the Tibetan army Pp. 377-379

LXXIX
Sarcasm appreciated--Kindness--A change for the worse--The place for
an Englishman--Vermin--A Tibetan prayer Pp. 380-382

LXXX
The Rupun as a friend--Treated with respect and deference--Fed by
the Rupun and soldiers--Improving my knowledge of Tibetan Pp.
383-385

LXXXI
A bearer of bad news--Marched off to the mud-house--Mansing--Insults
and humiliations--Iron handcuffs instead of ropes--The Rupun's
sympathy--No more hope--In the hands of the mob Pp. 386-389

LXXXII
A pitiful scene--A struggle to get to Chanden Sing--Brutally
treated--A torturing saddle--Across country at a gallop--A spirited
pony--Sand deposits and hills--Speculation--More horsemen coming
towards us Pp. 390-392

LXXXIII
At an unpleasant pace--Drawing near the cavalcade--A picturesque
sight--A shot fired at me--Terrible effects of the spikes along my
spine--The rope breaks--An ill omen--A second shot misses
me--Arrows--The end of my terrible ride Pp. 393-397

LXXXIV
Intense pain--Hustled to the execution-ground--Stretched and
tied--Thirsting for blood--A parade of torturing appliances--The
music--The _Taram_ Pp. 398-401

LXXXV
Bleeding all over--Insulted and spat upon--"Kill him!"--Urging on
the executioner--Refusal to stoop--An unpleasant sword exercise--The
execution suspended Pp. 402-405

LXXXVI
Mansing arrives--A pretence of killing him--Our execution
postponed--Fed by the Lamas Pp. 406-407

LXXXVII
Happiness checked--Stretched on the rack--Mansing shares my
fate--Drenched and in rags--An unsolved mystery Pp. 408-410

LXXXVIII
Mansing partially untied after twelve hours on the rack--Numbed--How
the brain works under such circumstances--My scientific
instruments--The end of my photographic plates--A paint-box accused
of occult powers--An offer refused--Courtesy and cruelty combined
Pp. 411-412

LXXXIX
An unknown article in Tibet--My sponge bewitched--A Lama fires my
Martini-Henry--The rifle bursts Pp. 413-415

XC
A consultation--Untied from the rack--The most terrible twenty-four
hours of my life--I lose the use of my feet--Circulation
returning--Intense pain--Sports Pp. 416-417

XCI
A great relief--The Pombo's attentions--A weird hypnotic dance Pp.
418-420

XCII
Compliments exchanged--A poisoned drink proffered--In acute
pain--Uncertainty as to our fate--Working the oracle--My webbed
fingers Pp. 421-423

XCIII
Our lives to be spared--An unpleasant march--Chanden Sing still
alive--A sleepless night--Towards the frontier--Long and painful
marches--How we slept at night--A map drawn with blood Pp. 424-428

XCIV
South of the outward journey--Severity of our guard--Ventriloquism
and its effects--Terrible but instructive days--The Southern source
of the Brahmaputra--Leaving Yutzang Pp. 429-430

XCV
Easier times--Large encampments--Suffocating a goat--A Tarjum's
encampment--Tokchim--Old friends--Musicians--Charity Pp. 431-434

XCVI
Towards Mansarowar--Mansing's vision--Bathing in Mansarowar Pp.
435-437

XCVII
Suna--Wilson and the Political Peshkar across the frontier--A
messenger--Our progress stopped--Diverting us over the Lumpiya
Pass--Condemned to certain death--We attack our guard--Lapsang and
the Jong Pen's private secretary--A document--Nearing
Kardam--Retracing our steps--Dogmar Pp. 438-444

XCVIII
A Commotion--The arrival of an army--Elected General-in-chief--How
we were to slaughter the Jong Pen's soldiers--My men lay down their
arms--Towards Taklakot--Delaling and Sibling--Taklakot at last Pp.
445-449

XCIX
Free at last--Among friends--Forgetting our past
troubles--Confiscated baggage returned--A scene with Nerba--Suna's
message delivered--How our release was brought about--Across the
frontier--Photography at Gungi Pp. 450-456

C
Civilisation once more--Paralysis--The Tinker Pass in Nepal--Kindly
natives--Mr. Larkin--Government Inquiry--Back to Tibet--Final
good-bye to the Forbidden Land--The return journey--Farewell to
Mansing--Home again Pp. 457-470