In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia

Chapter XLVI: Appendix: D (2)

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Medresseh, 338
at Ispahan, 196

Mehdi, 317

Mejdabad, 388

Melons, 169, 311

Memorial to Sergeant Collins, 295

Merand, 115

Merchants, 188

Meshed carpets, 149

Meshedi, 387
Aga Jan, 224

Mesrop, priest, 140

Milking sheep, 389

Millingen, Dr., 7

Minarets, the Shaking, 361

Minor crops, 174

Mir-achor, the, 103

Mirza Abdul Wahab, 145
Ali Akbar, 244
Hassan Ali Khan, C.I.E., 225, 242
Mahmoud, 271
Naim, 272
Zeynal Abdeen, 125

Missionary, American, 330
church, 165
medical, 163

M⸺, M., 210

Moallim, a, 337

Mob of boys, 393

Mocha coffee, 298

Modakel, 66, 81

Modern college, 338

Mohurrim, 279

Mokhlis caravanserai, 182

Mole crickets, 216

Money table, 63

Mongoose, 303

Monk, the, 159

Monteforte, Count, 371

Month of fasting, 284
mourning, 279

Moollah, Hadji Ali Akbar, 229

Moonshee, the, 81

Mordecai, tomb of, 75

Morning rides, 64

Mortar, blowing from, 203

Mortaza Ali, plane of, 364

Moscow, 211

Mosque, interior of, 197
I put up in a, 131
ruined, 177
sleepers in, 197
tile, 197

Mosquitoes, 340

Mote and beam, picture of, 161

Mother, the, 314

Mothers-in-law, 326

Motummad-ul-Molk, 271

Mouth cloth, 132

M. P⸺, 331

M. Schwab, 401

Mr. Ayrton, 5

Mud as mourning, 126

Muggerpir, 344

Mule-buying, 127

Mules, bargaining for, 381
worn out, 193

Muleteers’ manners, 381
ponies, 347

Mūllas, 198

Mūllavi, the, 380

Mumbar, 197

Munjil, 399

Mūrb ab, 401

Mūrchicah, 374

Murder of a Syud, 265

Mūrghab, 355
carpets, 151

Mūschir, 240, 257
bastinadoed, 271

Mūschir’s coachman, 352
life attempted, 271

Mūschir-ul-Molk, 270

Mūshtaheds, 188

Musical amateur, a, 312

Musicians, 114
and singers, 91

Musjid-i-Shah Ispahan, 135

Mussulman converts, 164

My cornet-playing, 71

Myedesht, 126

My first horse, 62
“hold-all,” 55
house in Julfa, 206
landlord, 360
road, 363

Mystery of a Persian traveller, 225

Naib-ul-Ayalut, 120

Naksh, 131, 325

Naksh-i-Rūstam, 119

Name of God in conversation, 290
Houssein, 281

Nammad carpets, 152
coats, 152

Narghil, 30

Narrow escape, 203

Nastorange, 309

Natanz, 373

Native agents, 71
bits, 54, 329

Natural hot bath, 348

Needlework, 334

New coinage, 371
year, 48
festival, 51
presents, 379

Night marching, 353

Nishan, the, 250

Nose rings, 323

Nawalla, 103

Nude dervish, 43

Nummud, 40

Nun, cruelty to a, 140
expelled, 163

Nunnery, 139, 163
scandals at, 140
school, 140, 163

Nuns, 163
prayers of the, 139

O⸺, Madame, 340

Odd disorders, 65

Odling, Dr., 351

Oil lamps, 75
paintings, 377

Old Woman, pass of the, 350

Omar, ridicule of, 283

Omen, mode of taking, 277

Omens, 277

Opera at Moscow, 211

Opium, 180
adulteration of, 180
collecting the, 173
eater, an, 380
eating, 181
packing, 181
preparation, 180

Orcheeni, 269

Ordinary executions, 202

Orphanage at Shiraz, 253

Orphans, fate of, famine, 253

Orūssēe, 57

Our cook, 379
telegraph staff, a grievance of, 133

Out-door costume of women, 325

Oysters at Kurrachee, 345

P⸺, Mr., 70, 225

Packing opium, 181

Pah Chenar, 397

Painters, 200

Painting, 333
the eyebrows, 327
the face, 41
the lily, 173

Paintings in cathedral, 160

Palaces, summer, 372

Palgrave, Mr. Gifford, 212

Pane, 302

Paraphrase, a, 285

Partridges sold alive, 221
tame, 308

Pass of the Old Woman, 350
of the Virgin, 350

Passanghūm, 387

Patient, a grandee, 243

Peacocks, 376

Pehliwans, 98

Pera, 8

Perhan, 322

Peri-bazaar, 210, 401

Persepolis, Ussher on, 217

Persian cat, 305
character, 314
cleanliness of the, 316
colonel, 80
consul, 15
costume, 317
court, 49
cuisine, 290
dinner, 91
drunkards, 141
Gulf to Ispahan, 347
justice, 121, 295
letter, 289
lying, 60
medicine, 33
opium, 181
patients, 64
prince, dinner with a, 114
home of a, 113
proverb, 123
Relief Committee, 252
roads, 22
sick-room, 244
singers, 114
tea, 16
woodcut (in _facsimile_), 287

Persia viâ Trebizonde, 212

Petrovsk, 404

Phantom cheese, tale of the, 172

Pharaoh and the magicians, 378
and the Red Sea, 378

Photography, 331

Pickles, 171

Pictures, the bishop’s, 159

Pierson, Capt. W.H., R.E., 32, 56, 269
death of his horse, 61

Pierson’s house, 57
stud, 61

Pigeon-fanciers, 95
flying, 95
ornaments, 96
shooting, 129
towers, 130

Pigeons, breeds of, 94
in kanāats, 129

Pig, wild, 177

Pig’s flesh, 179

“Pig-sticking,” 176

“Pip,” 347

Pipe at departure, 16

Pipes, details about, 29

Piræus, 212

Plane trees, 196
of Mortaza Ali, 364

Plaster work, 39

“Pocrat,” 82

Poetry, 285
at schools, 338
quoting of, 288, 338
to produce sleep, 286

Pole-buying, 80

Police, new, at Teheran, 371

Politeness of Zil-es-Sultan, 366

Pollak, Dr., 182

Pomegranates, 310

Poosseen Afghan, 319

Poppies, 173

Porcupines in kanāats, 129

Pork as an aphrodisiac, 399
wild, 179

Port Said, 342

Post, a man nailed to a, 112

Post-house, a night in a, 25

Post-houses, interior, 25

Posting, rate of, 328
rules for, 24, 259

Post-stages, length of, 23

Potatoes, a novelty, 170

Potters, 191

Preparation of opium, 180

Presentations at court, 151

Present of an arm-chair, 123
a fig, 179
sweetmeats, 111

Price of Persian opium, 181
provisions, 187

Prideaux, Colonel, 346

Priests, Armenian, 197, 199, 363

Primitive forms of church, 140

Prince’s flirtations, 280
hakim-bashi, 145
physician, 145

Prison, dispensary over the, 182

Prisoners, 199

Procrastination, 315

Property, 120

Proverb, a Persian, 123

Provincial grandee, 89

Provisions, price of, 187

Pseudo-masonry, 124

Public at a tazzia, 280

Pulad, 332

Pul-i-Dellak, 388

Pul-i-Kojū, 195

Pulpit, 197, 279

Punishment of “the sticks,” 146

Put up in a mosque, 131

Quail-shooting, 90

Quarantine, 4

Quarters at Julfa, 206

Quinces, 170, 310

Quinine, 70
a general taking of, 398

Quotation of poetry, 288

Racecourse at Ispahan, 364

Races at Teheran, 214

Rahim Khan, 73

Railway, Moscow to Petersburg, 211

Rain, 175

Ramazan, fast of the, 284

Rammals, 120

Rams, fighting, 308

Raphael, a suspicious, 161

Rawlinson, Sir H., 109

Reading poetry, 145

Real ancient relic, 80

Red tape, 317

Réflet Métallique, 191

Relations of master and servant, 326

Religion of people, 339
teachers of, 338

Religious affectation, 285
toleration, 339

Removal of ancient building, 364

Repudiation, a, 273

Resht, 210
embroideries, 333

Resht-i-Behesht, 226

Respect to parents, 314

Rev. R. B⸺, 340

Riding-trousers, Persian, 322

Ring, a curious, 376

Ripsimeh, St., 160

Rise of the Zenda Rūd, 194

River Kara Sū, 108

Road-cooking, 107

Road to Shiraz, 217

Roads in Turkey, 213
want of, 248

Robber-chief, 264

Robbers, 263
alarm of, 130
fate of, 269
fight amongst, 265

Rock sculptures, 119

Rodolphe, 162

Roman Catholic Armenians, 166

Rookhnabad, 218

Rookhni, spring of, 241

Room-fellow, a would-be, 246

Roseh-Khana, 283

Rose-water, 309

Ross, Colonel, 346

Rotten Row of Shiraz, 219

Row at the bath, 71

Royal bounty, 51
edict, 63
farrashes, 51
firman, 257
ornaments, 50

Rūbandah, 334

Rūdbar, 399

Rudeness of Zil-es-Sultan, 367

Ruhdesht, 176

Ruined bazaar, 200
mosque, 177

Running footmen, 370

Russian bread, 18
cigarettes, 340
goods, 373 (Appendix D.)

Russian passengers, 10
post-house, 13
steamer, 9
subjects in Persia, 159
wines, 10

Rūstumabad, 209

S⸺, Captain, 179

S⸺, Colonel, 208

S⸺, Mr., 340, 385

Saadi, a moral tale of, 277
at schools, 338
tomb of, 278

Sacred trees, 364

Sacrifice of an ox, 258

Saddle-bags, 22

Saddle for riding post, 4

St. George’s church, 143

St. J⸺, Captain, 225

St. John, Major, 350

St. Michael, picture of, 158

Saint, shrine of a, 362

Salaam, the, 51

Salt lake, 247
marsh, 393

Samovar, 311

Sana, 108

Sanctuary, 137

Sang, 334

Sangak bread, 334

Sarhang, the, 80

Sau-sau-Rac, 274

Scandals at nunnery, 140

Scars on horses, 61

Scenery in North Persia, 397

School discipline, 337

Schools, 163

Schwab, Mr., 401

Scorpions, 249
stings of, 249
suicide of, 249
varieties of, 249

Sealing, 184

Seals, 184

Securing doors, mode of, 142

Segah, the, 326

Seidūn, 260

Sergeant Collins, 293
Hockey, 127

Sergipatoffski, Mr., 214

Serrum-u-Dowlet, 112

Servants, 67
honesty of, 313
posting, 260
wages, 67

Severe governors, 206

Shah Abbas the Great, 161, 390
bribing the, 271
Paleng, 45
the, 50, 370

Shah’s tower, 402

Shahtirs, 370

Shaking Minarets, the, 361

Sharp ride, a, 208

Shashgird, 389

Shawls, 274

Sheep, 175
tics, 396

Sheif, 347

Sheikh, the, 380

Shemar, 283

Shiel, Lady, 154

Shiraz, 218
climate, 224
famine at, 253
game at, 221
gardens of, 223
ladies, 219
lambs, 220
pipe-clay, 334
priest, 140
unhealthiness, 224
water, 241
wine, 229
women, intrigues of the, 276

Shirazi, gaiety of the, 219

Shirts, 317

Shitūr Gūlū, 226

Shoemakers, 190

Shoes, 321

Shooting antelope, 88
from the saddle, 84

Shopkeepers, 189

Shrine at Kūm, 387
of a saint, 362

Shulwar, 321

Shūr ab, 387

Shūrgistan, 261

Shushan, the palace, 109

Sick-leave, 207

Sick-room, a Persian, 244

Signs of wealth of Imād-u-Dowlet, 112

Silence of young married women, strange, 132

Silver doors, 196

Singers, Persian, 114

Sinsin, 386

Sir A. Kemball, 208
H. Rawlinson, 109
F. Goldsmid, 56, 157
Oliver St. John, 350

Sitting, mode of, 318

Skilled house-decorators, 164

Slavery in Persia, 326

Sleepers in mosques, 197

Smoking, 31

Snakes, 307
superstition as to, 306

Snipe, 116
double, 107

Snow-chair, 272
in Turkey, 213

Socks, 321

Soh, 384

Souhāli, 326

Soup Gework, 143

Spears, 179

Spurious cavalry officer, 73

Staff, health of the, 296

Stages, list of, 411

Stanley, the traveller, 224

Steamer, Caspian, 211

Steelyards, 221

Stone doors, 142
mortars, huge, 360

Storing wine, 58

Story, Persian, 285

Story-teller, 44

Straw, cut, its uses, 175

Stripped, I am, 263

Students, cells of, 197

Studs of horses, 89

Substitute for bells, 139

Successful Armenians, 143

Suez, 342

Suffid Rūd, 400

Suicide of a scorpion, 249

Suleiman Mirza, 90

Summer palace, 372

Sunset gun, 284

Sunstroke, dangers of, 375

Supposed lioness, 35

Surmeh, 260

Susmani girls, 114

Susmanis, 108

Swamp, shooting in a, 117

Swollen eyes, 213

Syudabad Pass, 101

Syud at Kasvin, 208
Houssein, 71

Syuds, dress of, 320
Hassan and Houssein, 153
the three, their fate, 156

T⸺, Mr., 27

Tabriz maund, 220

Tager, 188

Takhtrowan, 368

Taking quinine, 398

Talár, 57

Talisman, 290

Talking lark, 94

Tame pigs, 302

Tame gazelle, 167
lion, 306
partridges, 308

Tanks, 198

Tannūr or oven, 335

Tarantass, 12

Tarantulas, 248

Tattooing, 323

Tax-man at Dehbeed, 133

Tax of turkeys, 144

Taylor, Consul, 212

Taziana, the, 380

Tazzia, 279

Tazzias, dervishes at, 281

T-cloths, marks on, 194

Teachers of religion and law, 338

Teetotaler, a, 380

Teheran, 28, 372
races, 214

Teleet, 136

Telega, 11

Telegraph office, 198
flight of Baabi women to, 154

Telegraph poles, wooden, 80

Temple at Kangawar, 107

Tenets of Baabis, 339

Tent for Tazzia, 280
pitching, 399

Tents, 107

“The Sticks,” 377

Thief-catching, 85

Thieves, gang of, 269

Thorns in feet, 267

Tiflis, 14, 17

“Tiger’s boy,” 341

Tiled dome, 196
halls, 197
mosque, 197

Tile inscription, 177
work gates, 372

Titles, 38, 289

Tobeh, 388

Toffee, expensive, 80

Token, custom of the, 250

Tomb of Cyrus, 355
Esther and Mordecai, 75
Hafiz, 279
Saadi, 278

Tombs of the Kings, 119

Tombstone bridges, 163

Toolahs, 306

Trade credits, 188
in Teheran, 373

Traders, economy of, 172

Trades, 197

Traffic in drink in Julfa, 141

Transit of Venus, 331

Trap-horses, 352

Travellers’ law, 132

Travelling in Persia, 413
when ill, 208

Treasure finding, 76
of Darius, 78
trove in Julfa, 361

Trebizonde, 212
to Teheran, 213

Trees, sacred, 364

Tsaritzin, 406

Tumbakū, 30

Tūmbūn, 324

Turkeys, 375
in Julfa, 144

Turkish barber, 6
chibouques, 6
coffee-houses, 6
saddle, 7
use of, 24

Turkomanchai, 27

Turkoman horses, 104

Uncleanliness of Armenians, 316

Ungrateful baker, an, 183

Uniform, I appear in, 48
in Russia, 15

Unleavened bread, 335

Unripe fruit, eating of, 168

Ussher on the Meana bug, 217
tomb of Cyrus, 355

Ussher’s description of Persepolis, 217

Usury, 192

Utū-Kesh, 191, 333

Vaccination, 363

Vails, 68

Valliāt, 366

Valley of Yezdikhast, 261

Value of land, 175

Van cats, 305

Variable climate, 339

Varieties of kabob, 297

Vassilliardes, M., 401

Vegetables, 170, 300

Vegetation near Caspian, 400

Veil, the, 325

Venus, transit of, 331

Vienna, stay in, 4

Virgin, Pass of the, 350

Virtuoso, story of a, 37

Visit to Baabis, 201
Imād-u-Dowlet, 112

Visits, Persian, 28

Viticulture, 310

Volga, the, 405

W⸺, Mr., 133

Wages of servants, 67

Walker’s road, 350

Walling up alive, wholesale, 203

Walton, Mr. H. V., 137, 167

Want of roads, 248

Washerman, the, 333

Watch-dogs, 306

Watch-towers, 177

Water-fowl, 301

Water-melons, 169

Water of Shiraz, 241

Water-pipes, 29

Wedding of Kasim, 282

We find treasure, 80

Weighing, 221
corn, 192

Weights, 220

Well of death, the, 275

Wheat, 174

White eunuch, 39

Wholesale and retail, 188
walling up alive, 203

Wild asparagus, 168
ass, the, 308
ducks, 176
flowers, 173
geese, 116
pig, 177
sow, 178

Wine, Cholar, 229
cost of, 234
jars, 230
Kerman, 235
Kishmish, 159
making, 232
mode of packing, 236
purity of, 235
sellers, Armenian, 142
Shiraz, 229
varieties of, 235

Winter room, my, 206

Wisdom of a judge, 184

Women, bastinadoed, 122
costume of, 323
educated, 339
execution of two, 122
hair of, 323
head-dress of, 131
of Shiraz, intrigues of, 276
out-door dress of, 325

Women, sentimentality of, 339

Woodcut, Persian facsimile, 287

Wrestling, 98

X⸺, Mr., 330

Yabū, 107, 348

Yakhjal, 240

Yapunjah, 319

Yari Khan, 78

Yarns, 329

Yezd, 162
marble, 114, 276
nammads, 152

Yezdikhast, 261, 357

Yezeed, 283

Yezeedis, 126

Young pigs, 178

Zalābi, 284

Zambūreks, 52

Zangi, Spring of, 241

Zenda Rūd, 135, 193

Zerejumah, 317

Zergūn, 260, 354

Zil-es-Sultan, 146, 154, 203, 205, 365
accident to, 255
and his dogs, 366
and the bear, 227
boat of, 248
character of, 366
conversation with, 155
dress of, 257
his kalāat, 258
illnesses of, 149
petition to, 155
politeness of, 366
procession of, 256
prospects of, 199
rudeness of, 367

Zinjan, 154, 272

Zoban-i-Gūngishk, 359

Zoological Gardens, 35

THE END.

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PERSIA AS IT IS.

BEING SKETCHES OF MODERN PERSIAN LIFE AND CHARACTER.

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=WALLACE’S TRAVELS ON THE AMAZON=: Travels on the Amazon and Rio Negro. By ALFRED RUSSEL WALLACE, Author of “The Malay Archipelago,” “Darwinism,” etc. Giving an account of the Native Tribes, and Observations on the Climate, Geology, and Natural History of the Amazon Valley. With a Biographical Introduction, Portrait of the Author, and Illustrations.

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=DEAN STANLEY’S LIFE OF DR. ARNOLD.= The Life and Correspondence of Thomas Arnold, D.D. (Head-Master of Rugby School). By ARTHUR PENRHYN STANLEY, D.D., Dean of Westminster. With a Portrait of DR. ARNOLD, and Full-page Illustrations.

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=POE’S TALES OF ADVENTURE, MYSTERY, AND IMAGINATION.= By EDGAR ALLAN POE. With a Biographical Introduction by the Editor, Portrait of the Author, and Illustrations.

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=COMEDIES BY MOLIERE=: Including The Would-be Gentleman; The Affected Young Ladies; The Forced Marriage; The Doctor by Compulsion; Scapin’s Rogueries; The Blunderer; The School for Husbands; The School for Wives; The Miser; The Hypochondriac; The Misanthrope; The Blue-Stockings; Tartuffe, or the Hypocrite. Newly Translated by CHARLES MATTHEW, M.A. The Translation revised by the Editor, with a Portrait of the Author, and Biographical Introduction.

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=FORSTER’S LIFE OF GOLDSMITH=: The Life and Times of Oliver Goldsmith. By JOHN FORSTER, Author of “The Life of Charles Dickens,” etc. With a Biography of FORSTER by the Editor, and Numerous Illustrations by MACLISE, STANFIELD, LEECH, and others.

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=LANE’S MODERN EGYPTIANS=: The Manners and Customs of the Modern Egyptians. By EDWARD WILLIAM LANE, Translator of the “Arabian Nights’ Entertainments.” With a Biographical Introduction by the Editor, Sixteen Full-page Plates, and Eighty Illustrations in the Text.

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=TORRENS’ LIFE OF MELBOURNE=: Memoirs of William Lamb, Second Viscount Melbourne. By W. M. TORRENS. With Introduction by the Editor, and Portrait of LORD MELBOURNE.

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=THACKERAY’S VANITY FAIR.= Vanity Fair: A Novel without a Hero. By WILLIAM MAKEPEACE THACKERAY. With Biographical Introduction by the Editor, Portrait of the Author, and full-page Illustrations.

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_Volume XVI._

=BARTH’S TRAVELS IN AFRICA=: Travels and Discoveries in North and Central Africa. Including Accounts of Tripoli, the Sahara, the Remarkable Kingdom of Bornu, and the Countries round Lake Chad. By HENRY BARTH, PH.D., D.C.L., With Biographical Introduction by the Editor, Full-page Plates, and Illustrations in the Text.

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_Volume XVII._

=VICTOR HUGO: SELECT POEMS AND TRAGEDIES.= (“Hernani” and “The King’s Amusement.”) Translated by FRANCIS, FIRST EARL OF ELLESMERE, SIR EDWIN ARNOLD, K.S.I., SIR GILBERT CAMPBELL, BART., BP. ALEXANDER, RICHARD GARNETT, LL.D., ANDREW LANG, LL.D., CLEMENT SCOTT, M.A., CHARLES MATTHEW, M.A., NELSON R. TYERMAN, and many others. With Portrait of VICTOR HUGO.

“One of the best volumes yet issued in the splendid series of ‘Famous Books’ which go to make up Messrs. Ward, Lock & Co’s ‘Minerva Library.’”—_Northampton Mercury._

_Volume XVIII._

=DARWIN’S CORAL REEFS, VOLCANIC ISLANDS, AND SOUTH AMERICAN GEOLOGY=: With Critical and Historical Introductions, specially written for this edition by Professor JOHN W. JUDD, F.R.S., Professor of Geology in the Normal College of Science, South Kensington. With Maps and Illustrations.

Darwin’s “Coral Reefs” is at once one of his most notable and charming books, and one that has excited a most vigorous recent controversy. His account of the Volcanic Islands he visited, and his still more remarkable book describing the vast changes that have taken place in South America in geological time, are also reprinted in this volume, thus completing the “Geology of the Voyage of the Beagle.”

_Volume XIX.—Second Edition._

=LOCKHART’S LIFE OF BURNS=: The Life of Robert Burns. By JOHN GIBSON LOCKHART. Revised Edition. With New Notes, Appendices, and Literary Illustrations by JOHN H. INGRAM. With Portrait and Full-page Illustrations.

“One of the best biographies ever written, and every admirer of Scotia’s well-known bard who has not got it should hasten to procure the wonderfully cheap and good edition now within his reach.”—_Weekly Times and Echo._

_Volume XX._

=BARTH’S TRAVELS IN AFRICA.= (Second and Concluding Volume): Travels and Discoveries in North and Central Africa, including accounts of Timbúktu, Sókoto, and the Basins of the Niger and Bénuwé. By HENRY BARTH, PH.D., D.C.L. With Full-page Plates and 50 Woodcuts.

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_Volume XXI._

=LYRA ELEGANTIARUM=: a Collection of some of the best Specimens of Social and Occasional Verse by Deceased Authors. Revised and Enlarged Edition. Edited by FREDERICK LOCKER-LAMPSON, assisted by COULSON KERNAHAN. With Notes, and Portrait of the Editor.

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_Volume XXII._

=CARLYLE’S SARTOR RESARTUS=, Heroes and Hero-Worship, and Past and Present. With a Critical Introduction by the Editor, Portrait of Carlyle, etc.

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In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern PersiaChapter XLVI: Appendix: D (2)

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