Chapter I: Preface

On the subject of Jerusalem many books in various languages have already been published; but I venture to think that there is still room for another, as most of them are open to objections of different kinds. Some authors have erred in being carried away by their subject, and disappoint the reader by substituting their own reflexions for the information that he desires to acquire. Some, with the eye of fancy, seem to behold the shades of Kings, of Prophets, and of Heroes, wandering among their tombs, or haunting the ruins of Sion; others, after a short stay in Jerusalem, return to their own homes and publish books, composed of fragments of classic lore, and the traditions they have gathered from the guides who have accompanied them in the visits to the Holy Places; some indeed going so far as to denounce as heretics and infidels all who do not lend a ready belief to these tales. Lastly, there are some who, without visiting Jerusalem, and consequently without a minute knowledge of its topography, rely upon the information they have gathered from the accounts of others, to reconstruct the ancient walls, the Temple, and other buildings, and endeavour to overthrow the conclusions which have been formed after a prolonged residence in the country and much careful observation.

In the works of all these authors there is much that is interesting, but the description of what is really to be seen is always more or less defective. I have accordingly endeavoured to supply this want during my residence in the Holy City, and now present to my readers the fruits of eight years of continual labour, devoted to a study of the topography of Jerusalem upon the spot, in which I have been constantly occupied in excavating and removing the rubbish accumulated over the place during so many centuries, in retracing the walls, in examining the monuments and ancient remains, and in penetrating and traversing the conduits and vaults; so that I trust I am in a position to throw some fresh light upon the subject of Jewish Archæology. In arranging the plan of my work, I have rested chiefly upon the Bible, the traditions of the Rabbis, and the works of Josephus, and have made but little use of any other authorities upon the ancient topography of the city; but, to compensate for this, I have made excavations and watched those made by others, have formed intimacies with the inhabitants of the country, have sought for information on the spot, regardless of personal risk, have worked with my own hands under the ground, and so have obtained much knowledge of that which lies below the surface of the soil in Jerusalem; and have pursued my purpose, at one time with bribes, at another with force, and always with patience, perseverance, and courage.

But my efforts would have been of little avail had it not been for the constant protection and assistance of His Excellency Surraya Pasha, of M. de Barrère, the French Consul, and his Chancellor, M. Aimé Dequié, who lost no opportunity of publicly testifying their esteem and regard for me. I must not forget to express my gratitude to the Ecclesiastical authorities, who have also shewn me great kindness.

That I have been able to publish my book in England is due to the Rev. George Williams, Fellow of King's College, Cambridge, who, when he had heard of my discoveries in the Holy City,--a place so dear and so full of interest to him,--invited me to this University, gave me a truly English welcome, and aided me to the utmost of his power in accomplishing my desire.

For the translation of my Italian manuscript into English, I am indebted to the Rev. T. G. Bonney, Fellow of St John's College, whom I have also to thank for several useful suggestions and corrections. I must also express my obligations to Mr R. W. Taylor, Fellow of the same College, who, in order to expedite the publication of the book, kindly undertook to assist his friend by translating the Notes.

The proof-sheets have been corrected by Mr Bonney, and revised by Mr Williams, and by the Rev. John E. B. Mayor, Fellow of S. John's College, who has not only been at the pains to collate them with my manuscript, but has also aided me with his great learning and experience. I cannot find terms adequate to express my gratitude to these three gentlemen for their constant kindness and friendly care. Nor can I refrain from thanking my numerous friends in this University, who have contributed to render my sojourn among them at once pleasant and profitable; with whom I have spent many happy hours, the memory of which will not leave me during the rest of my life.

And now I present my book to the reader, apologizing for its many deficiencies, and trusting that he will be an indulgent critic. It does not profess to be more than a simple and strict record of facts, and therefore I must ask him to pardon me if it be sometimes rather dull and dry. I have purposely avoided, as much as possible, all that would interfere with the main end of the work, such as personal reminiscences and unimportant details; wishing rather to put forward facts than theories, to rely upon sight rather than imagination. Most thankfully shall I receive friendly correction and criticism, or suggestions and advice for my conduct in the new investigations which I hope to make in Palestine. As regards those which I have described in the following pages, I can honestly say that I have spared no pains to make them as complete as possible; and though they have cost me much time and money, much anxiety and fatigue, still, if I succeed in throwing any additional light upon Jewish antiquities, or in exciting a more general interest upon such an important subject, I shall feel that I have not laboured in vain.

ERMETE PIEROTTI.

CAMBRIDGE, _December 15th, 1863_.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I. PAGE

ORIGIN OF THE NAME JERUSALEM--HISTORY--TOPOGRAPHY AND GENERAL
ASPECT--CLIMATE--POPULATION--WATERS 1

CHAPTER II.

ANCIENT TOPOGRAPHY OF JERUSALEM--IDENTIFICATION OF THE
MOUNTAINS, HILLS AND VALLEYS--JERUSALEM IN THE TIME OF THE
JEBUSITES, DAVID, SOLOMON, JOTHAM, HEZEKIAH, MANASSEH,
NEHEMIAH, HEROD--THE TESTIMONY OF JOSEPHUS EXAMINED--THE
SIEGE BY TITUS--FORMER EXTENT OF THE CITY--JERUSALEM IN THE
TIME OF HADRIAN, THE CRUSADERS AND SOLYMAN 16

CHAPTER III.

MOUNT MORIAH AND ITS ENVIRONS--HISTORY IN THE TIME OF
ABRAHAM, JACOB, DAVID, SOLOMON, ZERUBBABEL, ALEXANDER THE
GREAT, ANTIOCHUS EPIPHANES, THE MACCABEES, POMPEIUS, CRASSUS,
THE HERODS, TITUS, HADRIAN, CONSTANTINE, JULIAN THE APOSTATE,
OMAR, ABD-EL-MALEK, VALID OR ELULID, THE CRUSADERS, SALADIN,
SELIM I., SOLYMAN I.--GENERAL EXAMINATION OF MORIAH, WITH
DETAILS OF THE INVESTIGATIONS 45

CHAPTER IV.

THE CHURCH OF THE RESURRECTION, AND THE HOSPITAL OF S. JOHN,
WITH THEIR ENVIRONS--HISTORY OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE FROM THE
DEATH OF CHRIST TO THE PRESENT TIME--GENUINENESS OF THE
SEPULCHRE--GOLGOTHA--EXAMINATION OF THE EXTERIOR AND INTERIOR
OF THE CHURCH--RUINS OF THE HOSPITAL 102

CHAPTER V.

INVESTIGATIONS IN THE VIA DOLOROSA (OR THE WAY OF THE CROSS).
THE RELIGIOUS AND OTHER REMARKABLE BUILDINGS IN IT OR IN ITS
NEIGHBOURHOOD AND IN THE REST OF THE CITY, TOGETHER WITH ALL
THE CONVENTS OF THE DIFFERENT RELIGIOUS COMMUNITIES 135

CHAPTER VI.

EXCURSIONS IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF THE CITY ON THE EAST,
SOUTH, AND SOUTH-WEST--THE VALLEY OF KIDRON, CALLED ALSO THE
VALLEY OF JEHOSHAPHAT, WITH ITS MONUMENTS AND REMARKABLE
PLACES--THE MOUNT OF OLIVES--BETHPHAGE--BETHANY--THE VALLEY
OF HINNOM--THE MOUNT OF EVIL COUNSEL--SOUTH-WESTERN PART OF
THE VALLEY OF GIHON--MOUNT SION--CHRISTIAN CEMETERIES--TOMB
OF DAVID, AND SUBTERRANEAN VAULTS--THE COENACULUM--THE HOUSE
OF CAIAPHAS--THE GROTTO OF S. PETER--THE LEPERS 167

CHAPTER VII.

EXCURSIONS IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF THE CITY ON THE NORTH AND
WEST--THE MONUMENT OF HELENA OF ADIABENE, AND THE CHURCH
DEDICATED TO S. STEPHEN--ROYAL CAVERNS--GROTTO OF
JEREMIAH--HOUSE OF THE VINE--TOMBS OF THE KINGS--SHEIKH
JERRAH--ANCIENT SYNAGOGUE--TOMB OF SIMON THE JUST--TOMBS AT
THE HEAD OF THE KIDRON VALLEY--KIDRON POOL--VARIOUS TOMBS ON
THE NORTH-WEST--TOMBS OF THE JUDGES--SHEIKH AYMAR--RUSSIAN
BUILDINGS--VALLEY OF GIHON--BIRKET MAMILLAH--MONUMENT OF
HEROD, AND RUINS OF THE CHURCH OF S. BABYLAS--GREEK CONVENT
OF THE HOLY CROSS--PROPERTY OF THE ARCHIMANDRITE NICOFORUS 223

CHAPTER VIII.

ON THE WATERS, FIT OR UNFIT FOR DRINKING, IN JERUSALEM AND
ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD 245