Chapter III: Preface (2)

August 30th. Left Potsdam at eight o'clock in the morning, for the _Pfauen Insel_, or Peacock Island, where I had appointed to meet Mr. Cuming at nine o'clock. We had to cross a branch of the river Havel to get to the island, which contains a collection of plants and animals somewhat resembling the Zoological Gardens in Regent's Park. I was here more fortunate in finding M. Fintelman at home, than I was at Sans-souci, and having a letter of introduction to him from his uncle, who superintends the royal gardens at Charlottenburg, I found him remarkably attentive, and an intelligent young man. I was here surprised to find the _Robinia pseudacacia_ had attained seven feet in circumference, at four feet from the ground, the branches of which extend over thirty two yards of ground in diameter. I also observed some fine specimens of the oak, which were little inferior to our largest English oaks. The conservatory is an oblong building, about one hundred and twenty feet by forty, and forty two feet high, and consists of several tiers of front sashes, with a span roof, the north side being a dead wall with a gallery for resting in behind it, which commands a full view of the plants underneath.

I was much gratified, by the very flourishing state of the plants, and their remarkable neatness. A very fine collection of the _Palmæ_, is cultivated in this stove or conservatory, some of which have made a rapid progress in their growth. The _Latania borbonica_ measured twenty seven feet in height, spreading over a space of equal dimensions in diameter. I understood that his majesty the king of Prussia frequently breakfasts in the summer season in this conservatory, under the shade of the palm fronds (or leaves). I remarked also the _Pandanus utilis_ twenty three feet high; the _Dracæna Draco_, (Dragon Tree) had likewise grown thirty six feet high; _Pandanus sylvestris_ thirteen feet in height, and eleven feet in diameter across its branches; the _Bambusa arundinacea_, forty feet high; a shoot of this cane, grew seven feet six inches in the course of three weeks; the _Corypha umbraculifera_, a very magnificent specimen. The _Latania borbonica_ is placed in the centre of the conservatory; the tub in which it grows is completely concealed by planting around it various _ferns_, and other low growing plants, which are tastefully arranged, and form a nice little stage round the tub, having a very neat appearance, with the walk round it, which shews the palm to the best advantage. Opposite to this spot is a recess in which is placed a small fountain tastefully decorated by _ferns_ that succeed well in a shady situation. There is likewise in this recess, a very handsome marble screen, richly carved and ornamented. The grounds are very judiciously laid out in various clumps of flowering shrubs and summer flowers, and were at this time in full perfection. One of the finest Hydrangeas that I have seen, was in full bloom, and its large purple-blue flowers were very conspicuous. The grass lawn was in a much better state than any other that I had previously seen in Germany, or even met with during my tour on the continent, and the whole garden ground very neatly kept. The island is said to contain about four hundred English acres. The erections for the different animals and birds are judiciously placed, and consist of handsome structures, arranged from two to three hundred yards or more apart; these apartments were kept remarkably clean and in good order. An extensive collection of beasts and birds are preserved in this establishment. The grounds are considerably varied, and some fine views are to be seen from several parts of it, as well as from the top of some prospect towers. The effect of the river Havel, and surrounding plantations at the opposite sides, adds expressive features to this landscape.

After seeing the various objects most deserving of notice, both in the botanical and zoological departments, we proceeded across the river, to the grounds of Prince Charles, still accompanied by M. Fintelman; they were laid out, principally, in the English style, his royal highness being particularly partial to it.

This spot consists of a great variety of surface, with several beautiful vistas, and is really very tastefully planted, and the grounds formed, and kept in very excellent order. The public road from Berlin to Potsdam passes close by the front of the grounds, and there is a low wall, with an invisible wire fence on the top of it, betwixt the road, where the views of the grounds are seen to most advantage. One side of them extends close to the Havel, where a handsome summer house is erected, which commands a fine prospect of Potsdam, the new bridge, and shipping, and likewise the scenery on the opposite side of the river, which is much varied. Under this building are two colonnades covered with creepers, which have a very pretty effect.

On the one side of a hill nearly opposite to this villa, is a new residence erecting for prince William; the views from it must be very extensive, as it is situated on a commanding spot.

We next proceeded to the magnificent edifice called _Marmorpallast_, or marble palace, which is situated at a very short distance from Potsdam, and close to the margin of the Havel. It is a splendid building, the greater part of which is constructed with marble. The cornice appeared to be about five or six feet deep; it is of white marble, as also is the base above the ground for several feet; the door and window jambs are likewise of the same material. The intervening spaces of the walls are built with red brick. The colonnade at the principal entrance consists of handsome marble columns. The pleasure-ground and gardens attached to it are said to contain two hundred and fifteen German acres of ground, throughout which are dispersed various clumps of trees and shrubs, with extensive walks and rides branching through it in different directions. These grounds are very flat, and have but little variety or picturesque appearance in them. The number of good exotics and New Holland plants is considerable, as well as a very fine collection of healthy orange trees, with some fine specimens of hardy trees growing singly on the grass. I here observed the _Juglans fraxinifolia_ bearing a number of good sized fruit. In the flower garden some good German stocks, then in full bloom. The borders and grass lawn were in a rough state.

We next proceeded to Sans-souci, Mr. Cuming not having previously seen it. I was delighted in having another opportunity of looking round this truly magnificent spot; and being accompanied by Mr. Fintelman, who kindly devoted the entire day in conducting us to the various objects best worth our notice, we proceeded through the grounds attached to Sans-souci palace, and then to Charlottenhoff, the new palace, &c., and were much gratified by the numerous objects of interest we had pointed out to us in the various places that we inspected.

On our return to Potsdam, we went to the top of Breuchensberg, or hill of brewers, where a prospect tower is erected. The view from this spot is really grand in the extreme; we look down upon Potsdam and the numerous palaces that are in its environs. Sans-souci and the new palace are both prominent objects in view from this prospect; but the most pleasing features are the numerous small green islands that are formed by the river Havel, near the bridge at Potsdam; the intricacy and variety of outline of water, and the number of boats and small sailing vessels making their way to Berlin through this place, form a pleasing sight. The evening was now drawing to a close, and little more remained to be seen by daylight. M. Fintelman took his departure for the Island of Peacocks, and Mr. Cuming started in an hour after for Berlin. I was thus again left alone to muse over the different objects that had occupied my attention during the day.

August 31st. Not having previously seen the pine-apple forcing department, I walked out early this morning to Sans-souci, where this fruit is cultivated. I was rather surprised to find a great extent of low houses and pits devoted to the growth of the pine, without observing a single fruit amongst the whole stock that was scarcely worth cutting. There cannot be less than one thousand feet in length of houses and pits adapted to the pine-apple, and these varying from eight to twelve feet in width. The principal range was heated by smoke flues, and the plants plunged in saw-dust, with tan under; which practice is frequently adopted in this country, especially when tan is scarce. The young plants in the pits appeared pretty healthy, but such fruit as was fit for cutting, or advancing to maturity, would bear no comparison to our English produce.

After satisfying myself with what was to be seen in this department, I returned to Potsdam, from whence the diligence to Dresden, my next place of destination, did not start till twelve o'clock. The time I had to spare before my conveyance came up, was employed in inspecting the town, which consists, it is said, of 2000 houses, and 16,000 inhabitants. The streets are in general very clean; one leading from the palace to Sans-souci is inlaid with planks for the wheels of the different vehicles to run on, similar to the Russian manner. I also saw in the vicinity a Russian colony, which was inhabited by natives, sent as a present some years ago by the Emperor to the king of Prussia; they are now becoming pretty numerous, and their colony is extending.

Potsdam is intersected by various small canals, that lead from the Havel, and are very convenient for the conveyance of turf and other materials by water carriage. The greater number of the houses are handsomely built; there was then erecting opposite to the palace a magnificent church. At the other end of this palace is an iron bridge, crossing the Havel; the piers consist of stonework, there are eight arches, one of which is used as a drawbridge for the passing and repassing of boats going this way to Berlin. This town is the principal depot for military, who are exercised daily in great numbers in front of the palace.

At twelve o'clock the diligence arrived, when I took my departure in it for Dresden.

The road leading from Potsdam to the latter town was lined on each side with fine poplar trees, of a considerable size, for several miles of the journey. The soil in this part of the country appeared to be a light sandy loam: the plantations were chiefly composed of the Scotch fir; but close by the road side, in several places between Potsdam and Herzberg, were large quantities of plum trees, loaded with fruit.

We arrived at Herzberg at half-past ten o'clock; but owing to the darkness of the night I was unable to see, or form any opinion of the size of the town or quality of the houses.

September 1st. At three o'clock in the morning we reached another small town, called Elsterwerda, which was said to contain about 900 inhabitants. The next stage we came to was Grossenhayn, where we arrived at half-past five o'clock, a.m. This town is situated in the kingdom of Saxony, and contains nearly 5000 inhabitants. At this stage we were transferred to another diligence.

The country from Grossenhayn to Dresden is much more varied than any I had previously seen in Germany.

The scenery as we approach to Dresden is very picturesque, both as regards distant views and variety of surface: when within a few miles of the town, we meet with a very fine avenue of lime trees, extending for a considerable distance, and then is continued by horse-chesnuts. On descending a hill, a fine prospect of Dresden presents itself to the eye. The soil now appears more of a black colour, and less free from sand, than what I had previously observed. I also saw several beech trees intermixed with the Scotch-fir.

Arrived at Dresden, at nine o'clock a.m. After getting breakfast, I immediately proceeded to the house of Professor Hughes, who was then engaged, but Mrs. Hughes asked Mr. West to accompany me to the principal gardens; this gentleman, a school colleague of Lord Cosmo Russell, and an admirer of plants, very cheerfully accompanied me to several of the gardens in the vicinity of the town. We first proceeded to the Botanic Garden, belonging to the University, which is very limited in extent. I was however much pleased with the fine collection of Cacteæ that are grown in this establishment, as well as a large collection of Cape, and other green house plants. The number of species of hardy perennial plants in this small space of ground is truly astonishing; there is also a great variety of Cape bulbs and _Gramineæ_. The extent of glass is confined to a very long conservatory, stove, and several pits for _Cacteæ_.

Having been introduced by Mr. West to M. Lehman, the superintendant of the garden, he accompanied us to the gardens of Lieut. Weber, situated at a short distance from the town, and considered the most extensive for glass and space, of any about _Dresden_. I should imagine by its appearance there could not be above seven or eight English acres of ground under nursery culture. The collection of plants for sale comprises chiefly _Camellias_, young orange trees, Cape and new Holland plants, many of the scarcer sorts of which I observed had been lately introduced to that establishment, from Mr. Low's nursery at Clapton. A fine specimen of the Uhria speciosa was in great vigour of health. A great variety of dahlias, and dwarf China roses in full flower were in these grounds.

I was much pleased by the simple mode of grafting the _Camellia_ and orange trees, which appeared to be very successful, and is generally practised by M. Liebig the gardener, which method is what we term in this country crown grafting; by this mode the shoot or graft, after insertion in the stock, is only tied neatly to the stock, with a bit of worsted thread, and then sealed over as well as the top of the stock, by a little bees-wax, (without clay as practised here); when this operation is completed, the plants are put into a frame or pit, with a little moist heat, until the graft and stock begin to coalesce, when they are shortly afterwards gradually exposed to the air of the greenhouse. In this establishment there are several very good hothouses for plants. In one of the ranges is placed a circular shaped conservatory, heated by hot water, on rather a novel construction; these hot water pipes being formed into perpendicular columns, rising from the floor to the height of from ten to twelve feet. These pipes, thus constructed, gave out a great command of heat, and answered the original intention very satisfactorily. The plants in this nursery garden were very well grown, and all in a healthy state.

I next visited the nursery of M. Hofrath Kreyssig, which is only a short distance from the Botanic garden. I saw likewise some good kinds of greenhouse plants, as well as many rare species of the Rhododendron tribe; the _Rhododendron campanulatum_, a fine specimen; a collection of orchideous plants is also forming in this nursery garden. There are several small hothouses for the growth of Cape and tropical plants, which are also cultivated for sale; but the space of ground is much too limited, as well as confined by houses to do justice to a collection of hardy species. After visiting these gardens and grounds, I took my leave of Mr. West, to whom I was much indebted for the kind interest he took in the object I had in view, and who appears devotedly attached to plants and gardening. Professor Hughes having recommended me to see the chateau erected on the banks of the Elbe by the late Lord Findlater, an English nobleman, I expected to have found some fine gardens, or collection of plants, but, to my surprise, on my arrival, I found it now occupied as a tea garden; it is much frequented by the inhabitants of Dresden, in consequence of its romantic situation on the banks of the Elbe, commanding a prospect of the country, studded with small villages situated in the valleys between the hills, or rather eminences; but these are not to be compared with our Scotch mountains. Along the Elbe is a great extent of vineyard, which did not appear to be in a very prolific state, the soil being of a poor sandy texture. Many pretty villas were also situated along these banks, which had very pleasant prospects from them.

September 2nd. Having agreed to meet Mr. Lehman early this morning, we proceeded to the Catholic church, which belongs to the court, and is certainly a magnificent building, the interior richly ornamented, and well worth the stranger's notice; we next visited the Protestant church, which is likewise a splendid erection. The museum and post office are also very magnificent buildings. I was however surprised at the appearance of the royal palace, which consists of a dark gloomy looking old fashioned residence, and with little in its exterior appearance, calculated to give a stranger the idea of its being the seat of royalty. Through the assistance of Mr. Lehman, who procured tickets of admittance to the gallery of paintings, I was favoured with a sight of this celebrated collection, which is considered to be amongst the finest in Europe, and is said to contain one thousand five hundred pictures; among so many there are undoubtedly some very splendid ones. On our return from the gallery, we passed through his majesty's coach-house, which must at least have contained no less than sixty different carriages; a very splendid one lately presented to the king by Prince Metternich, was pointed out to us. From hence we proceeded to the museum or repository of minerals, birds and animals. The collection of the feathered tribe in this establishment is particularly extensive; some very large blocks of petrified wood, that were much prized, were pointed out as remarkable curiosities. In one of the departments was a table four feet in diameter, of a solitary piece of wood of the _Tamarindus indicus_, (tamarind tree.) In front of the building various orange trees are arranged along the edge of the walks. What is called _Bruehl's_ garden is also deserving of notice; it forms a public promenade for the inhabitants, and is pleasantly situated, containing a picture gallery, which is denominated the gallery of duplicates.

Dresden is said to contain about 80,000 inhabitants, and is much admired for its fine houses and streets. It is considered by many as one of the finest towns in Europe; but I must confess that in my opinion it is inferior to either Berlin, Munich, or Brussels. It is situated on a flat spot of ground with the river Elbe running through it; the bridge over which is said to be 1450 feet long. The Arsenal is a large building, but I had no time to see it, as the diligence left this day at twelve o'clock for Munich, and as these conveyances only go twice or three times a week at most from the principal towns throughout Germany, the losing of an hour to see an object might detain one for two or three days. Having taken my leave of Mr. Lehman, I seated myself in the diligence for Munich, a journey which occupied us three days and three nights. The road winds along the river side from Dresden to the first stage on our way to Munich, and is very beautiful, the scenery much diversified, and resembling that of some of our Scotch mountains; the plantations of forest trees comprise a mixture of silver fir, beech and Scotch-fir. The hill and dale that continued for a considerable way along this line of road rendered the scenery very interesting and picturesque, and which appeared so to continue until it became quite dark, when all view of the country was lost.

We passed through Freyberg, a small town situated on the river Mulde, and is said to be 1179 feet above the level of the sea. The next town or village that we came to was Chimnitz, where we stopped for supper.

September 3rd. Arrived at one o'clock in the morning at Zwickau, at which town the road from Leipsic joins the one from Dresden, where the diligences from both towns meet, and the passengers are transferred from the Leipsic diligence to the one from Dresden. Whilst waiting for the vehicle getting ready to start, I was agreeably surprised to find Mr. Parker, seated at the same inn; he had arrived from Leipsic by that diligence: when we parted at Berlin we had no expectation of again meeting each other so soon.

One of my fellow travellers from Dresden was a Frenchman, but he was evidently as awkwardly situated whilst travelling for want of a knowledge of the German language as I was myself; consequently we both kept Mr. Parker pretty busy in acting as an intermediate interpreter whilst we were together.

The scenery about Zwickau is beautifully varied with hill and dale, and woods, with a small river called the Mulde running along by the bottom of the rocks. The houses are neatly built, and of considerable number, containing a population of from seven to eight thousand. The roads in the vicinity of this town are rather mountainous, but not so much so as in the preceding stages. The next small village that we passed through was Plauen, where we arrived about seven o'clock in the morning: it is said to contain about 700 inhabitants.

We next proceeded to Hof, where we arrived at ten o'clock, changed diligences, and had to stop for several hours before we could again get on our journey. On entering this town we passed by a large tea garden, situated on the side of a hill, at the bottom of which is a small river, that tends greatly to enliven the scenery. The town of Hof is in the kingdom of Bavaria, and the population is said to amount to 6,000, living in handsomely built houses. The main street that leads through it I should imagine is nearly a mile in length, and very wide; there appeared to be a fair in the town on this day, which occupied a great part of this street.

The cathedral is an ancient building; the entrance consists of a handsome Gothic door, the walls of which must be about eighteen feet in thickness. The town-hall is likewise a fine erection, and the houses and streets appeared all in clean and neat order.

From Dresden to Hof the country productions principally consist of agricultural produce; the potatoe and oats are extensively cultivated. A sharp frost this morning blackened all the potatoe tops.

At one o'clock we got into a Bavarian diligence, and proceeded to Berneck, a small town surrounded with beautiful scenery, that much reminded me of the Derbyshire rocks, to which in picturesque appearance it was fully equal.

Arrived next at Bayreuth, at eight o'clock in the evening; it is a town of considerable size, said to contain 10,000 inhabitants. On the diligence driving up to the inn door we found the space in front of it completely covered with a military band, and a large concourse of people listening to their music; this band belonged to a cavalry regiment that was on its march through the town. We next started for Nuremberg, where we arrived at half-past eight o'clock the following morning.

September 4th. On our arrival at Nuremberg, we found that we had to remain here for several hours before the diligence started again: we made the best use of our time, proceeding to St. Laurence's Church, a Gothic building, the doors and windows richly ornamented with groups of sculpture and other carved work in bronze; the painted glass is very handsomely executed. This church was begun in 1254 and is a most magnificent building. The tabernacle consists of a beautifully carved and richly ornamented spire, executed in 1496 of carved stonework. Although it has been converted into a Protestant church, yet the Catholic ornaments are still remaining. We next proceeded to view the Catholic church, which is likewise a very splendid Gothic building, erected in 1355, and the exterior walls richly ornamented. In the Market place, we were much gratified with a very pretty spiral fountain, richly carved, erected in 1356. The town-house is also a very fine old structure, containing many good paintings in the large and small hall. The fresco paintings in the latter apartment are beautifully executed on the ceilings and walls, which are also highly ornamented by gilt mouldings. The paintings in the great hall consist of various pieces of fresco, by the celebrated Albert Durer. The triumphal car of the emperor Maximilian, drawn by twelve horses, in beautiful fresco painting, and a very fair picture of the present king of Bavaria, by Byng of Munich, is also to be seen here.

From hence we went to the cathedral, in which is St. Sebald's Tomb, highly deserving of the stranger's notice. This church contains the oldest metal font in Germany; it was formerly used in baptising the emperor's children. The saint's tomb, by Fisher, is a masterpiece of workmanship, executed in 1508; there is also a curious figure of the artist himself. The tomb is a pretty Gothic structure, cast in bronze, and the body of the saint enclosed in a silver coffin, under an elegant Gothic canopy. We next proceeded to the picture gallery, which contains a good collection of paintings by German artists, in good preservation. From hence we went to the imperial castle, where there is growing a Lime tree, _Tilia europæa_, said to be seven hundred years old. I measured the girth of this tree, at four feet from the ground, and found it to be fifteen feet in circumference; it still appeared in a pretty healthy state.

The dining room in this ancient castle, formerly used by the king, is of large dimensions, and contains a large number of old paintings, which are in good preservation; the rooms although uninhabited for the last four hundred years are still in good condition. From the windows in this castle we have a beautiful prospect of the town as well as of a considerable extent of country. On our return from hence we visited the house in which Albert Durer resided, which is now converted into a gallery for modern paintings, exhibited for sale, many of which appeared to be most beautiful pieces of art, and objects of great interest to numerous visitors who were then present admiring them. By this time it was drawing near the hour we had to start by the diligence. We made the best of our way back to the hotel, and got all ready by one o'clock, the appointed hour of our departure from Nuremberg, which is a town of considerable size, containing a population of upwards of thirty thousand people.

In the environs are large tracts of ground under vegetable culture, but I was unable to learn of the existence of any botanic garden or good nursery establishment in the immediate neighbourhood. Large fields of tobacco were cultivated in the suburbs, as well as extensive plantations of the _Hop_, which appeared very prolific. The soil we passed from Nuremberg to Munich was more sandy than it previously had been; the scenery is also more flat and less varied than in our preceding stages.

Sept. 5. Arrived at Pfaffenhofen, at six o'clock in the morning. Near to this town large quantities of the _Genista germanica_, were growing close by the road-side, also the _Dipsacus laciniatus_, in great abundance. Approaching nearer to Munich, I observed growing in a plantation the _Vaccinium Vitis Idæa_, in great plenty, reminding me, from its occurrence, of the mountains of Scotland. The scenery in the vicinity of Munich, is of a great sameness, but the Tyrolese mountains appearing in the distance considerably add to its picturesque effect. We reached Munich at eleven o'clock, where we found some difficulty in getting apartments, the hotels being then so full of strangers.

In the afternoon I was accompanied by Mr. Parker to the Botanic garden, which is situated close to the town, having a very handsome entrance with Ionic columns, and neat iron railing, which encloses a large part of this garden. The _Arboretum_ of trees and shrubs is confined to the two ends of the garden, it being an oblong square, but the south side is much the longest. The space of ground is very confined for the growth of large trees; the entire space devoted for this purpose is not an acre of ground, consequently the different sorts are much crowded together.

The interior of the garden, in front of the range of hot-houses, is laid out in numerous oblong squares, with gravel walks intervening; in the centre walk are three round basins of water. These squares are again divided into beds for the herbaceous plants, wherein a good collection are cultivated. In one of the divisions there is an _aquarium_ for aquatic plants, which consists of oblong square troughs, lined with brickwork for retaining the water; these are about two feet wide by two deep, and an intervening space of ground, of from six to eight feet, in which are grown such species as do not require the water: but a damp situation, notwithstanding, is requisite: In the apartments where the hardy perennial plants are cultivated, are numerous apple trees, all in full bearing; these ought to be eradicated and their places supplied with ornamental trees or shrubs. Apple-trees, however useful, are not in character with a botanical collection; more especially as the apple is so common by the road sides through Germany; a collection of this fruit should find a place elsewhere than in the botanic garden, where the space of ground is already much too limited for the collection of plants. A lofty range of hothouses about five hundred feet in length, has a very good effect; they are only furnished with upright sashes in the front, the back and roof opaque, the latter finished in the semi-cove form, and neatly plastered. I was surprised to find the Palms looking remarkably healthy, notwithstanding these dark houses, many of the species had really grown from twenty to twenty five feet in height.

The collection of the Brazilian species is very numerous, but many of them appeared drawn and too much crowded for want of light and room in the pits. The Cape and New Holland kinds were then out of doors, very healthy and well grown. I was much pleased also with some very fine specimens of _Cacteæ_, the variety of which is reckoned but little inferior to that of Berlin. In short, there is an extensive assortment of the various species of _Succulentæ_ in this establishment. The director, M. Seitz, having been long a collector, has succeeded in forming a great variety of this curious tribe; he was extremely liberal in parting with any of his duplicates.

Sept. 6th. M. Seitz having the kindness to accompany us to the Royal gardens at Nymphenburg, which are situated about four English miles from Munich; we proceeded thither immediately after breakfast, and found that these grounds required no little time to make even a hasty inspection.

The French garden in front of the palace consists of straight and broad gravel walks, with long stripes of grass lawn, and borders about twelve feet wide of shrubs running parallel to the avenues of horse-chesnut trees. Along the edges of the walks various vases and other ornamental sculpture are arranged; leading from these walks, a straight piece of water, more in the form of a canal, than an ornamental lake, runs parallel in two different directions; the one parallel to the palace, is crossed by two wooden bridges, which are prominent features from several points of view. The centre, or main canal, leads in a straight direction for a considerable distance, and is broken by several very pretty cascades, and handsome marble basins, as well as different groups or figures of sculpture. The water comes rushing over the marble ledges with great force, and was certainly the brightest and purest that I had ever previously seen. There are also some very fine jets in which the water is propelled to a great height by machinery. A well formed lake nearly adjoins the bathing house, said to occupy about fifty Bavarian acres of ground, the outline of which is much varied with different projections of land, islands, and the banks of turf tastefully planted with trees and shrubs, forms a very pleasing contrast. A curious bark is placed on this sheet of water, consisting of two small boats, with a platform, on which is placed a chair, so that a person may sit and read, or fish, and at the same time guide this boat by his feet, that are resting generally on the paddles.

Close by the margin of this lake, is a very pretty circular temple, with a figure of Apollo, that forms a prominent object from several points of view. A small cascade passing under a ledge of rockwork, on the top of which is placed a marble figure of Pan, and a goat at his feet, forms another object of interest in this part.

The grounds from the south west of the bathing house, (or Pavilion, which is ornamented by paintings and statues) have been lately much improved, and are now considerably varied with different clumps of trees and shrubs, undulations and rockwork. The surface is naturally a flat, but art has, during the last three years, created great inequalities and alterations in this part of the grounds; the banks and undulations are very judiciously formed, the trees and shrubs tastefully grouped together; the walks and rides are of great extent, and very neatly kept and gravelled.

The range of plant houses at Nymphenburg is the most extensive and substantially built of any that I had previously seen in Germany, about one thousand feet in length, and varying from twenty to twenty four feet in width, the height not exceeding twenty-eight feet. I was here surprised to find that the hothouse in which a fine collection of _Palmæ_, and other Brazilian plants were grown, was heated by very small hot water pipes, which I imagined were far too small to sustain the temperature of such a house, although the back and roof are opaque, and of course require considerably less artificial heat than if constructed with glass on all sides. The boiler that heats this house is about seven feet long, three deep, and three feet six inches wide, and consequently contains a large body of water, when once heated it gives out a great portion of caloric from its sides and surface, being placed at the back of the house, but in the interior, and concealed by the plants. The pipes branch right and left from the boiler and appeared to be only two inches in diameter, yet, I was informed, they were found quite sufficient for the heating of this conservatory. Undoubtedly the boiler being so very large rendered pipes of greater dimensions unnecessary. The frost is, however, much more intense in Germany than in England; the _Lauristinus_, _Arbutus_, _Rhododendrons_, _Portugal_ and _Common Laurel_, were cultivated at Nymphenburg as green-house plants; they are too tender to endure the winters there.

In front of this botanical range, or more directly opposite to the palm house, is an arboretum of hardy trees and shrubs, but the site, for that purpose, is badly chosen, and by far too contracted, and should have been selected in the pleasure ground, at some distance from these houses, where there is ample space, and would have formed an interesting feature. As at present the more common kinds of trees and underwood are the only hardy species of decoration in many parts of the ground. Opposite to the east end of the range of plant houses is an oblong piece of ground, laid out in narrow beds by the edge of the walks, which are occupied with a collection of dahlias, and other herbaceous flowering plants.

On our return from this botanical range we visited a small private garden, close by the palace, which has also a very pretty cascade at its extremity, and ornamented by sculpture.

The palace of Nymphenburg forms almost a semicircle of a large radius on the Munich side, or principal front, but that facing the gardens is more of an oblong square, and in consequence of the numerous roofs appearing from the semicircular front, that are disconnected and of various elevation from the main building, it has more the appearance of a number of small villas, than of a royal residence, particularly as we approach it from Munich, by the side of the straight canal that leads to the principal entrance. Nearly opposite the centre of the palace on this side is a circuitous basin of water with a fountain in the centre and rockwork around it. This water is conveyed into the gardens, and must be of great extent from the appearance of the course it was running, which leads a considerable way towards Munich. After our return from Nymphenburg gardens, we proceeded to the English garden, which is said to contain about five hundred English acres of ground, and is a favorite promenade for the inhabitants of Munich. This park, or pleasure ground, is rather of a flat surface, but much diversified by clumps of various trees and shrubs, and fine sheets of water, the margins of which are much varied, but unfortunately full of weeds. The drives and walks that lead through these grounds in different directions are very extensive, some of them being nearly five miles in length. The grounds adjacent to the queen's palace are very well kept, and deserving of notice; but a piece of water in view from it is very filthy, which is the more extraordinary, as it might be easily kept clean by turning into it a branch of the river that runs through these grounds.

We observed some very fine specimens of the _Juglans fraxinifolia_ with fruit on them, and very large trees of the _Salix alba_, which were here in greater size than any I had ever seen. Numerous clumps of various kinds of trees and shrubs are grouped together; but these are in most instances rather crowded, and not enough of lawn is seen to intervene between them. A handsome observatory was erecting, situated on an artificial mound, which, when finished, will command a fine prospect over these grounds. We also visited several of the churches. St. Mary's church is very splendidly fitted up, and has handsome marble columns. In it is placed a very superior statue of Eugene Beauharnois. St. Michael's church is likewise deserving of notice from the beautiful marble columns. The choirs of the different churches were this day all decorated with Orange trees, _Hydrangeas_, and other flowering plants.

Sept. 7th. I appointed to be in the Botanic gardens with M. Seitz, by eight o'clock in the morning. Immediately on my arrival I met with Mr. Forster, nephew to the vice president of the Linnean Society, who is also much attached to botany. The greater part of the day was spent with M. Seitz, looking over the numerous species of _Cacteæ_, and _Succulentæ_, and after having finished my visit here, he had the kindness to conduct me to the Glyptothek, which is a very magnificent quadrangular building, containing a fine collection of antique sculpture; the floors and walls are inlaid with various marbles, the ceilings richly ornamented with gilt mouldings, and fresco paintings. It has twelve apartments, one of which is devoted to modern sculpture, and possesses some fine specimens in this art.

I next proceeded to the Pinakothek, which is situated at a short distance from the Glyptothek, and is likewise a very splendid building, but it is not yet finished. It is intended as a repository for paintings, and consists of a number of very capacious apartments with gilt ceilings of extraordinary splendour. The suite of rooms is said to be 500 feet in length, and on the south side is a long passage or gallery, the ceiling of which is ornamented with fine fresco paintings. The exterior of this Pinakothek is equally magnificent, and when finished will undoubtedly be one of the most attractive objects in Europe.

Sept. 8th. This being a holiday and inclined to rain, we visited the royal palace, which is at present undergoing great alterations and additions. The first object that attracted my notice, was the granite steps of the king's staircase, which measured twenty one feet in width; at the top is the body guard room, and then an inner ante-room, the walls of which are beautifully ornamented with fresco paintings, as is likewise the adjoining room, in which are represented as though suspended from the ceiling and cornice, fresco painting of numerous fishes.

The family dining room, with cove ceiling and fresco paintings, and most beautiful inlaid floor, must attract general admiration. The throne room is however still more capacious, and the walls are ornamented by various alto-relievos in plaster. I observed in several of the windows that the squares of glass used were five feet long by three feet in width. His majesty's cabinet is also splendidly fitted up. The apartments intended for the queen are still more superbly finished, and represent subjects in fresco painting taken from the German poets.

The surbase of her majesty's room is of fine marble; the room is about forty feet square, the dressing room of rather larger dimensions. The queen's throne room is really most splendidly finished, the walls and mouldings gilt, and the surbase of fine blue marble. There are several other apartments intended for her majesty, representing in fresco paintings various subjects from the poems of Burgher; with the pilgrimage to the holy sepulchre in fresco. The grand staircase is most magnificent; the walls and steps are of fine marble, with four Ionic marble columns at the top, the whole furnished in the most superb style. The lower suite of apartments is equally splendid; the walls are decorated with paintings in fresco of several of the emperors of Germany. The magnificence of the decorations on the walls and ceilings of the new apartments in this palace are such that no one can form any idea of their grandeur without a visit.

Adjoining to this, is the statue gallery of antiquities, which measures about three hundred and thirty six feet in length, by forty five in width, with a cove ceiling painted in fresco. I here saw a beautiful Florentine Mosaic table, for which Napoleon offered sixteen thousand florins. There is also a Bavarian almanack of the fifteenth and sixteenth century, in form of a circular table, about seven feet in diameter, inlaid with brass; but the letters and figures almost obliterated. The entrance to this antique gallery consists of a handsome grotto in shell work, with various figures, birds, and devices, in alto-relievo.

There is placed opposite the new addition to the palace a colossal figure in bronze of the late emperor, with a huge lion at his feet. Near this palace is a magnificent Post-office, now building. There is also the Theatre, which is likewise a very splendid structure. We next visited the Gallery of Paintings, which is well deserving of notice, and contains a very valuable collection of pictures. The space of ground called the Hof Garden, which is a fashionable promenade, and consists of numerous rows of trees and gravel walks, is bounded on one side by a very long gallery, highly ornamented with various frescos. Although denominated a garden, I could see neither flowers nor shrubs; only rows of trees, that formed a shady promenade in the summer months, when it is much frequented by tea-parties.

In the afternoon we made another visit to the English garden, and round the environs of the town; but this being a holiday, all the principal establishments were shut. I was however unable to hear of there being any other garden establishment worth seeing, that I had not previously seen: we therefore procured our passports, and secured our places in the diligence for Stuttgard.

Sept. 9th. Left Munich at six o'clock a.m. The scenery for the first stage was rather flat, but as we approached Augsburg it became considerably more varied. By the side of the road on this route I observed the _Gentiana Pneumonanthe_, in great abundance; I here had an opportunity of collecting several specimens, whilst the diligence was ascending a long hill, which was well planted, and where some fine trees of the spruce fir were in view.

The houses in Augsburg have old-fashioned red tiled roofs, with numerous windows projecting like skylights, even five rows deep on the sides, in very bad taste. Augsburg contains 27,000 inhabitants; and several ancient buildings, particularly the Episcopal palace, Cathedral, and Town-hall. The Cathedral, a Gothic building, contains some curious old tapestry and paintings, representing the apostles sleeping whilst our Saviour was praying. There are also some curious old tombs, with models; and several handsome fonts with large bronze figures. The Town-house, which contains a picture gallery over the ground floor, is a very fine building; the gallery where the paintings are kept is 120 feet long, 62 feet wide, and 56 feet high, with a carved wood ceiling, richly gilt. The pictures were many of them of immense dimensions, and in fine preservation, but of the old German school. We here also visited the German Literary Gazette printing-office, and also the steam engine which is used for throwing up the water to supply the different fountains in the town.

Whilst Mr. Parker was making purchases of books here, I proceeded to the garden of M. Schatzle, which is situated in the suburbs. This garden is very well kept, and contains some good exotic and Cape plants, and a good shew of summer flowers, with several straight avenues of trees planted so as to form an arbour or shady walk. In this garden is placed a colossal group in bronze that weighs 10,500 pounds, executed by Chirardi in honour of Fugger. The first of the Fugger family was an Augsburg merchant, and is said to have left his heirs above six millions of golden crowns, besides other property. From thence I proceeded to the nursery of M. Schultz, which contains vegetables as well as nursery stock: there are two or three small hothouses, or rather pits, for the growth of the tender species, but I saw but little in this establishment worth notice, although considered the best nursery garden about Augsburg.

It was now drawing near the hour that we were to take our departure from Augsburg in the diligence; whence we started at 7 o'clock p.m. for Ulm, the next town of any note.

I omitted to mention that we were accompanied through the different departments in Augsburg by the French gentleman who travelled with us from Dresden to Munich, and also by Mr. Withy, who was returning from a tour, and going then to Heidelberg; he travelled with us as far as Stuttgard, where we all parted.

Sept. 10th. Arrived at Ulm at half-past four o'clock in the morning. This is a pretty town, situated on the left bank of the Danube, in the kingdom of Wurtemberg, and is said to contain 23,000 inhabitants. We stopped here about an hour.

The first stage beyond Ulm consists of a fine agricultural district. The second stage presented rocky and fine scenery, planted with hard wood, the birch and beech trees intermixed, but the latter sort pre-hills on both sides, which is particularly picturesque, and surpasses the much admired Matlock scenery, for many miles. When we arrived at Geislingen we had time to admire the huge rocks peeping out amongst the trees opposite this village, where there is also a very fine prospect tower, which overlooks the town, and great extent of country. I observed, growing on the banks of Geislingen glen, the _Asclepius vincetoxicum_, _Helleborus officinalis_, and several other scarce plants.

Along this country numerous orchards of fruit trees prevailed, such as plums, pears, and the apple, which were very abundant, all growing close by the road side and full of fruit.

The road through Geislingen to Goppingen is very beautiful, being a great vineyard country for many miles, commencing about Plockingen, and extending along the face of the hills to Stuttgard. We passed through an old fashioned town called Esslingen, which is situated on the Necker, a river that heightens in a great degree the beauty of the whole valley along which it winds.

Cobbett's corn appears to be extensively cultivated in this district, particularly near to Stuttgard, where we arrived at six o'clock in the evening. Here I lost all my travelling companions, Mr. Parker starting for Frankfort immediately, and Mr. Withy the following morning for Heidelberg; both which towns I afterwards visited.

Sept. 11th. M. Hertz, who has a small nursery garden in Stuttgard, and whom I had previously seen in Kew gardens, very kindly volunteered to accompany me to the Royal Botanic Gardens here, which are situated at a short distance from the palace, and contain a number of old hothouses, and a good collection of plants in a very healthy state. In short, I was surprised to see the plants looking so healthy in such old worn out opaque roofed houses.

There are also cultivated here many very fine specimens of the _Cacteæ_. I saw one of the _Cacteæ senilis_ above eighteen inches long, a very fine healthy plant. The _Echinocactus cornigerus_ measured about six inches in circumference, and some other kinds were also nearly as fine.

The pleasure ground belonging to this palace contains about two hundred and sixty German acres; it is tastefully planted, and laid out in numerous drives and rides, forming a pleasant promenade for the public.

A very fine orangery, with dark roof, is situated at a considerable distance from the Botanic gardens, and near it a very complete flower house was erecting, the rafters of which were of metal, and the sashes all wood, heated with smoke flues, that pass under the pit, where an arched cellar is formed, so that mushrooms or other vegetables may be accelerated. I regretted that this house was not heated by hot-water, which would have rendered it very complete. It is intended to remove near to it the kitchen garden, which is situated at a very different part of the town, and in a very dilapidated state. Numerous pits for melons, and pines, are in these gardens, but in this state of intended transition they are not kept in good repair. After going through these different departments, M. Bosch, the superintendent of all the Royal gardens, then returned to the Botanic garden, while M. Hertz conducted me to a small villa garden, containing a very choice collection of _Cacteæ_, some fine large specimens of the _Opuntia_ tribe and _Cereuses_ were here.

Having called on the Baron de Meyendorff, the Russian ambassador at Stuttgard, his excellency accompanied me to a small nursery garden, which contained some good specimens of plants of the more hardy sorts of the New Holland and Cape species, but little of novelty amongst them. From hence we proceeded to the chateau of General Spizenberg, which has been lately erected on the side of a hill, commanding a most delightful and extensive prospect of Stuttgard and its varied scenery. I was much gratified to find that the old warrior, after undergoing the fatigues of many campaigns, was now devoting his leisure hours to the pursuit of botany and horticulture. Baron Meyendorff informed me that the general acts entirely as his own gardener, and he has certainly succeeded in forming a very choice collection of plants, consisting of hardy shrub, perennials, and exotics. There are grown in this small spot, sixty sorts of _Camellias_, a good variety of _Ericas_, and numerous other Cape plants, with some very curious _Cacteæ_. In a little stove, divided in two divisions, I observed also a few pine apples, but of a very inferior size, and not worth the trouble even of eating, let alone rearing. The other description of plants looked healthy, the peach-trees against the low wall were very well managed and neatly trained. The vines were also judiciously trained to a wooden trellising against the wall. On the whole it is an interesting collection, and well worth the stranger's notice. On my return I proceeded in the afternoon to Rosenstein palace, which is about two English miles from Stuttgard; but his excellency having the kindness to send his carriage, and being again accompanied by M. Hertz, we soon arrived there, and again met with M. Bosch.

This palace is a magnificent building, placed on a fine situation, commanding beautiful views of the Swabian Alps, also of Carstadt, where there are found buildings of the Romans, and large pieces of fossils, particularly of the mammoth. The Necker also forms a fine feature from this palace.