Chapter IV: Preface (3)

The grounds are very extensive, and the drives and walks well kept; the ground is now formed into beautiful sloping turf, which I understood was formerly in a very unlevel and rough state. It is beautifully diversified with various fine drives, which I could not but admire, being destitute of the fantastic twists, that are so often thrown in without the the least meaning.

At present the grounds around this palace have rather a naked appearance, for want of trees and shrubs, but this defect M. Bosch is rapidly removing, so that a few years will produce a very different effect; much difficulty is however experienced in getting the trees established, owing to the high elevation of the ground, and the general droughts in summer. At Rosenstein, I saw one of the most complete vineyards that I ever met with, formed on the slope of a hill, with wooden trellisses, so constructed as to have the greatest degree of the sun's rays, at that season when the fruit requires it most. These trellisses are arranged about six feet apart each other, and are formed thus, /_\, so that the vines are laid on an inclined plane, and the fruit appearing on all sides, have really a delightful effect. The trellis is five feet high, and six feet wide at bottom, and the whole constructed something like a parabola, and continued along the slope of ground in a curved line. I did not observe the vine in such a prolific state any where else, and the whole looked remarkably neat. At a considerable distance from the palace, some very extensive fruit terraces were forming on the slope of a hill, near the town of Carstadt; nearly two hundred men were busily employed blasting rock, and forming the terraces, which are intended for the vine, fig, peach, apricot, &c., and from the fine sheltered situation in which they are placed, I imagine the success will be fully equal to their expectations. On approaching these terraces I was at first surprised to observe the workmen surrounded by a number of soldiers, who were stationed at different parts, throughout them. I however soon observed that this precaution was necessary, as many of the workmen so employed, were convicts, and heavily loaded with chains round their legs. I walked over a great part of these extensive grounds, and was much pleased with the different objects I saw, and improvements proceeding with.

Sept. 12th. Started this morning, for Hohenheim palace, which is situated about six English miles from Stuttgard; it is now occupied as an agricultural establishment, and has attached to it a thousand acres of ground, devoted to agricultural experiments. I was much gratified by seeing the granary of seeds, consisting of a great variety of the different kinds used in husbandry, which was said to amount to five hundred sorts. The stock of cattle and sheep, is very fine and extensive. The repository of agricultural implements contains the various instruments used in farming, from every known country, and are all kept in excellent order.

The different domestic apartments in the palace, are occupied by numerous pupils, who congregate here from all parts of Germany. I was happy to learn that the produce of the establishment was sufficient to meet all the expences, attending its cultivation. In the pleasure ground, or rather nursery, a great quantity of the more common sorts of shrubs is cultivated. I observed a fine tree covered with fruit of the _Prunus cirrhifera_, an excellent plum, quite round, and of a purple colour. I also saw a fine specimen of the _Tilia alba_, that was planted by Duke Charles the _Fraxinus juglandifolia_, was a particularly noble plant, as well as the _Quercus macrocarpa_, and various other species of this genus. There are about sixty _arpents_ of ground here, under young fruit tree cultivation, which are grown for sale.

During the time that Duke Charles resided at Hohenheim, the gardens were much celebrated, and attracted numerous visitors from all parts of Germany. There is a fine piece of ground called the English garden, that was much admired, but now we have only the forlorn remains of it left. At the front of the palace, are still several of the old flower beds, and the balustrade wall, which forms a fine sweep, at the principal or entrance front. It was in Duke Charles's time well stocked with orange trees, but none are now in existence. The ground falls considerably, towards the south, from the palace, and when under garden cultivation, it must have had a very pretty effect. The view from the windows, over a small town called Boblingen, and the surrounding scenery, is very fine, the Swabian Alps appearing in the distance. I should imagine Hohenheim palace, about sixty years ago, must have been one of the most magnificent in Wurtemberg, but the apartments are rapidly going to decay. The new road lately formed near to Stuttgard, winding through the vineyard plantations, with their numerous small huts or watch boxes, has also a very pretty effect, although rather fatiguing from its steep ascent.

On my return from Hohenheim, I again called on Mr. Koster, the British secretary of legation, who accompanied me to the house of M. de Kerner, where I saw eighty-three volumes of the splendid Botanical work, executed by the late M. de Kerner, which consists of above one thousand drawings of the various fruits, and other exotic flowering plants, which are undoubtedly exquisite specimens of that gentleman's abilities as a draughtsman. These volumes were only purchased by the royal libraries of Vienna, St. Petersburg, Munich, Stuttgard, and Copenhagen, at a price of seventeen hundred pounds; only six or seven copies were executed, one of which is still on hand, in the possession of M. de Kerner. After again procuring my passport, I started about eight o'clock in the evening, for Carlsruhe, where I arrived at five the next morning.

Sept. 13th. On my arrival I found that the diligence would start in the course of twenty minutes for Baden. I started by it, and arrived there at ten o'clock. His Excellency Lord George William Russell, kindly gave me a note of introduction to Sir John Frost, the late secretary of the Medico-Botanical Society of London, who was then residing at Baden, and practising as a physician. This gentleman furnished me with several notes of introduction, to some of his Botanical friends, and also kindly shewed me the different objects of interest about the town; amongst which was the fountain of mineral-water, so much celebrated, for various diseases. It is of a very high temperature; so much so, that I was unable to drink a glass of it, without first letting it cool; from the appearance of the fountain, one would imagine that a strong fire was burning under it. From the baths we proceeded to the castle garden, and from hence, a considerable way up the hill, where is a most delightful prospect of the town, and its very romantic scenery. The old castle forms a prominent object of attraction, which, with the tremendous precipices of rock, and plantations, render this spot the most picturesque that I had previously met with on my tour through Germany.

An excellent promenade, called the English garden, with neatly kept walks and pieces of lawn, is much frequented by the inhabitants and visitors. Situated in the promenade is a magnificent building called the "Conversation House," with numerous orange trees arranged in front of it.

In the interior, I was much surprised to see in a very capacious room, splendidly furnished, a large concourse of ladies and gentlemen, during Sunday, very busy at the gambling tables; in fact the ladies appeared to be fully as expert gamblers as the gentlemen. I also made a visit to the convent, where two skeletons of saints decorated with numerous pearls, rings, and other costly ornaments are exhibited; the skull and teeth appeared to be in pretty good preservation, but these superstitious decorations, so perfectly incongruous, might be well dispensed with. The number of strangers calculated to have visited Baden, during the season of 1835, are said to have amounted to thirteen thousand. The scenery for a great part of the way from Carlsruhe to Baden, is considerably varied, and the old castle of Eberstein appearing on an eminence, with well planted hills, forms a lively contrast. We also passed through a handsome town called Rastadt, situated on the river Murg, where a palace, belonging to the grand duke of Baden, appears conspicuous from the road.

Sept. 14th. I called this morning on Mr. Kennedy (brother to the Marquess of Ailsa,) and delivered to him a note of introduction that I received from Lord G. W. Russell. Mr. Kennedy very kindly accompanied me to the Botanic Garden, and introduced me to M. Held, the gardener, a very intelligent man; here the enormous height that the _Melaleuca stipulacea_ had attained, which was nearly forty feet, is truly astonishing. Various other _Melaleucas_ and _Banksias_ were nearly as high; the _Dracæna Draco_ (Dragon-tree,) was about twenty feet in height; and the _Pomaderis apetala_ almost thirty feet. In this garden are various ranges of houses for the cultivation of tropical and other green-house plants, which are extensively cultivated. The houses have all dark roofs, with glass only in front; yet the greater part of their inmates looked very healthy, particularly the greenhouse plants; but these had the advantage of being exposed to the weather during the summer months. Various pits were also in this establishment for the growth and protection of the half-hardy species. The _Succulentæ_ are extensively cultivated; there are nearly one hundred and forty species of _Mesembryanthemums_, and about one hundred different kinds of _Aloes_, besides a pretty good collection of the _Cacteæ_. The _Rhododendron_ and _Azalea_, are cultivated out of doors, which is rarely the case in any other garden in Germany.

The herbaceous ground is formed into oblong squares, and these again divided into narrow beds, which are well stocked with a great variety of hardy flowering perennials. The whole of this botanical department was remarkably neat and clean, having, it is understood, been much improved since M. Held was appointed. It appeared to me, however, to be much too crowded with these heavy looking houses, which are too numerous for a space of ground, undoubtedly too contracted and confined for such a collection of plants.

The park, or pleasure-ground, adjoins the garden, and although of a dull flat surface, yet it contains many very fine specimens of ornamental trees and shrubs. I observed, for instance, the _Salisburia adiantifolia_, sixty feet high, and several very large tulip trees, and the _Sophora Japonica_; a fine specimen of the _Acer dasycarpum_, measured no less than a space of ground of twenty yards regular diameter. I was much pleased with a small flower garden, close to the palace windows, which was well stocked with flowers in full bloom. The grounds are laid out with numerous avenues radiating from the palace, which extend in a straight line for a considerable distance; I reckoned twenty-seven of these avenues, which had certainly rather an imposing effect, and various walks and rides that branch off through the grounds in different directions. There is also an extensive piece of ground enclosed with a high wall, occupied as a nursery, and well stocked with various hardy species of trees and shrubs. The front of the palace, next Carlsruhe, was ornamented with large orange trees. The orangery was a large building, the front of which was well covered with grape-vines in a prolific state.

Sept. 15th. Left Carlsruhe at six o'clock, a.m. for Heidelberg, passing through a fine fertile country, chiefly occupied with green crops. The mangel wurtzel, Indian corn, and fine crops of tobacco, are cultivated here, as well as in many other parts of Germany. Arrived at Heidelberg at eleven o'clock, and proceeded to the Botanic Garden, which has been only recently established, and contains a neat range of hot-houses, about one hundred and sixty feet long, besides a large sized pit in front of the range, one hundred feet long. This garden, although small, is pleasantly situated, and well arranged. In the centre is an oblong piece of water, the banks around which are considerably elevated, and planted with standard fruit trees, such as peaches, apricots, plums, and pears. The garden forms an oblong square, with a range of hot-houses and gardener's house at the north end, close to the Heidelberg Gate. These hothouses were the best and neatest-built that I had met with in Germany, and contain a pretty fair collection of plants, with some very fine species of _Cacteæ_. Along by the east side of the garden is an avenue of very fine specimens of the _Robinia inermis_, which is also continued along the south side of the town for a considerable distance.

I next proceeded to Schwetzingen, another magnificent establishment, belonging to the Grand Duke of Baden. The palace and gardens are situated about five English miles from Heidelberg, and are unquestionably well worth the stranger's visit. In the approach to them by an arch-way at the palace, we have a view of a large circular piece of ground, divided into various divisions, in which are cultivated a good collection of flowering plants; there are also in this spot a number of fine orange trees, arranged along the edges of broad gravel walks; several of them forming a straight avenue, extending in various directions. The centre walk or avenue, leading from the palace, is terminated by an extensive sheet of water, where is placed a fine group of sculpture, as well as another at the commencement of the avenue, at the end of the grass, next to the circular piece of ground, where the orange trees are arranged. On each side of this principal avenue is situated an oblong piece of ground, laid out in the French style of gardening, with numerous straight walks, and circular spaces at their junctions. The exterior of the ground, and that by the lake, is laid out in the English style, and consists of various clumps of trees; and the very fine irregular sheet of water has really a very good effect.

I was much pleased with a very fine ruin, which is ascended by steps to a very considerable height, from whence is a delightful prospect of the gardens and adjoining scenery. The Temple of Apollo, with the stupendous blocks of rock, and the water dashing against them, is another object deserving of notice. The Temple of Minerva is also a very pretty erection. A Roman aqueduct forms a very prominent object of attraction, but at this season of the year it appeared to be but indifferently supplied with water, which might be occasioned by the long and universal drought. A Temple Botanique, and a very handsome Kiosk, formed objects of interest and ornaments to the garden. An extensive arched trellising covered with creepers also attracted my notice: in it were numerous arborial openings on both sides.

The collection of Cape and New Holland plants is pretty extensive, and numerous species of the _Genus Erica_ are also cultivated. In the kitchen garden various pyramidal-formed pear trees are grown; and the hothouses are of a better description than are usually to be met with in Germany; the south-side glass, and the back opaque, with span roofs. The pine-apples here were the best that I had previously met with during my tour in Germany. To give an accurate description of the various objects of interest that are to be seen in these grounds would require one well acquainted with the premises, and several days' actual residence on the spot. The orange houses are substantial built houses, with dark roofs, and the collection of trees, from their appearance, from four to five hundred, which were in a healthy state.

Having a letter of introduction from Sir John Frost and M. Kilter from the neighbourhood of Vienna (who visited Woburn Abbey last summer) to the principal director, I experienced the greatest attention from him; the greatest pains were taken in pointing out to me every thing worthy of notice.

Returned to Heidelberg, and visited the ruins of an old castle, situated on the face of a hill overlooking the town, and the river Necker, and surrounded by high hills well planted, which form an eminence considerably above the castle, where there is a platform or resting place: the view of the extent of country and its romantic scenery is really grand. On the top of two of these hills are high towers, the prospect from which must be still more extensive. On approaching the old castle, I was agreeably surprised to observe some fine walks, with a collection of trees or arboretum, with printed labels attached to them, and the ground in good order. From this we still continued to descend to the old castle, which, even in its present state, must strike the stranger with regret that such a magnificent building should have been permitted to go to decay, particularly as the stone work appears in a good state of preservation. The prospect from the terrace, on the north-side of the castle, is really grand, commanding the circuitous course of the Necker, the lofty and undulating hills on each side, which I imagine must be elevated at least two thousand feet above the level of the site of the castle.

In the interior of the building is the celebrated _Heidelberg tun_, which was formerly used in making the Rhenish wine, with the great machine that was in use for that purpose, and from its size the quantity made daily must have been very great; near to it stands a figure of one of the wine makers, who was in the habit of drinking fifteen bottles every day. The approach of night prevented me from inspecting the interior of this old castle so minutely as I could have wished. Descending from a hill considerably elevated above this building, I passed through a grove of fine trees (sweet chesnuts) all in full bearing.

The country and romantic scenery in the vicinity of Heidelberg pleased me more than anything of the kind I had previously met with.

Sept. 19th. Left Heidelberg at six o'clock a. m. for Frankfort, the road winding along the river Necker, for a considerable distance, through a flat country to the left; but the high hills on the right as we passed from this to Darmstadt formed a pleasing contrast. The scenery for the first ten or twelve miles is very picturesque, from the high undulating hills, having numerous old romantic castellated ruins on their summits, or commanding points, which form prominent features of attraction. These hills are likewise well planted with forest trees; and large tracts are under vineyard culture.

Arrived at Darmstadt at half-past one o'clock. I was much pleased with the cleanliness and elevated situation of this town, which is said to contain above twenty thousand inhabitants; the houses are handsomely built, the streets wide, and in good proportion to the height and size of the houses; they have also flag pavements, which is a rarity in Germany. The opera-house is a splendid building, as well as the cathedral. The palace is also a fine old building, and has attached to it an extensive pleasure ground and kitchen garden.

Having but a very short time to stop here I made but a hasty visit through the gardens. The kitchen garden walls were well stocked with trees in full bearing, and large crops of vegetables appeared to be extensively cultivated: from thence I went to the extremity of the grounds, near which is a small herbaceous ground, with a good collection of plants in it, but I observed but little in the ornamental way in the arboretum department.

About the centre is prettily formed, although dirty, a sheet of water, with a fanciful boat, for passing to and from a small island in the centre. The grounds are very flat and not varied, but possess numerous walks and rides which are frequented by the inhabitants.

I here observed a large number of horses, belonging to the Grand Duke, passing through the town to the Ducal stables. There are military barracks, and a large establishment of soldiers stationed here. This is evidently not a town of trade, but is principally occupied by the military.

Left Darmstadt at three o'clock for Frankfort; the country betwixt these towns is not much varied, but the soil appears very fertile, and produces good crops. I was, however, quite astonished at the number of carriages and other vehicles passing and re-passing betwixt Frankfort and Heidelberg; the road appeared to be nearly as much crowded as any of the English roads leading to London, and amongst these travellers were many English families.

Arrived at Frankfort at six o'clock in the evening; the hotels were all so crowded with strangers that it was with difficulty I procured a bed, but at last the landlord of the Hotel d'Angleterre obtained me a room in a private house.

Sept. 17th. In the morning I visited the Catholic cathedral, which is said to be one thousand years old, and contains a curious clock and almanac, made and placed in it about four hundred years ago; and then proceeded to the banking-house of Messrs. Koch and Co., and delivered to them a letter of introduction from His Excellency Lord G. W. Russell. They kindly furnished me with notes of introduction to several of the best gardens in Frankfort. I then visited the nursery gardens of M. Rintz, which are situated in the suburbs of the town, and contain about eighteen English acres, chiefly occupied with fruit trees. There are also several hothouses and pits for Cape and other plants, which are pretty extensively cultivated, with a good variety of _Ericas_ and other greenhouse plants, as well as several fine specimens of _Cacteæ_, and a very extensive variety of the _Camelliæ_; but unfortunately none of these being at this season in flower, I had not the pleasure of seeing M. Rintz's celebrated variety, which is said to be very fine. This gentleman then accompanied me to the garden of M. Andreæ Willemer, which is close to the town, but is very limited in extent; it contains a very good greenhouse, and low pits and frames, which were then well stocked with a very fine collection of _Cacteæ_, amongst which were many very scarce species. This gentleman devotes much attention to the cultivation of this tribe of plants, and appeared to put a higher value on many of them than they are actually worth; for instance, the _Cactus Senilis_ he would not part with for fifty pounds, although possessing duplicates. There was also a good assortment of Cape plants and a number of _Ericas_, which are now beginning to be more extensively cultivated in Germany than they previously were.

I then paid a visit to the Frankfort Botanic Garden, which is of very limited extent, and its collection of plants also very contracted. These is, however, attached to it, the Senkenberg Society, which contains a splendid collection of objects in natural history, such as birds, fishes, shells, minerals, and animals, which are well worth the stranger's notice.

From this I proceeded to the gardens of M. Gogel, situated about four English miles from Frankfort, containing twenty-four German acres, with several hothouses and pits for the growth of the pine-apple and other tropical plants, which are extensively cultivated here. This gentleman has a very fine collection of the hardy grapes on the garden walls, with a large space of vegetable ground, well cropped. The lawn in front of the house appears, from the River Main, to much advantage, as well as a fine avenue of lime trees, that have grown to a large size. At the lower end of this avenue is a fine vista of the river and packets, or boats, that pass to and from Frankfort and Mayence.

On my return, I called at the villa garden of M. Stern, which is a pretty little spot, with a great variety of pelargoniums and dahlias, and other green-house plants, and contains some small green-houses and pits for their protection; there is also a good collection of camellias, all in a healthy state.

Adjoining this is another villa, belonging to M. Cronelius, that has also several good hothouses and pits, with a large variety of _Ericas_, _Camellias_, _Dryandrias_, and _Geraniums_, as well as other New Holland plants. There are likewise several espalier divisions, in which the pear tree is extensively cultivated, and appeared to be in a very prolific state. There is a considerable extent of ground under kitchen cropping, and also a pleasure ground, which was very well kept.

The garden of Baron Rothschild, close to the town of Frankfort, is undoubtedly the best in this neighbourhood that came under my observation; it contains thirty-five German acres, with several green-houses, besides an extensive range then building, about two hundred feet long, which was also intended for plants, and is divided into seven apartments, in order that those kinds that require different temperatures may be kept separately; this range when completed will have a very fine effect. In front of the mansion were placed two large stands well stocked with geraniums, and some very good orange trees, in tubs, which are removed from this site to the green-house early in autumn. I here observed a very fine specimen of the _Araucaria excelsa_, which was beautifully feathered to the ground; this is unquestionably one of the finest specimens of this plant that I have seen on the continent or in England, with the exception of that at Dropmore, which is much finer in every respect. Baron Rothschild's _Araucaria_ is little inferior to the one at Prince de Linge's at Belial.

Opposite to the house is a prospect tower, that commands a fine view of Frankfort and surrounding country; there is also an arched walk completely covered with grape vines. The grass lawn was well kept, and various clumps of trees and shrubs dispersed through it. A small piece of water is enclosed at the lower end of the ground for water fowl. In this garden I observed a good collection of green-house plants and _Ericas_.

The fortifications that formerly surrounded the town are now demolished, and formed into a public promenade for the inhabitants, and are well laid out, with various clumps of trees and shrubs, broad walks, and benches.

Frankfort is a town of great traffic, and is said to contain about 40,000 inhabitants.

Sept. 18th. Left Frankfort at ten o'clock for Mayence, and passed through a fertile sandy country, which is well stocked with grape vines, but the country not much varied; the scenery as we approach Mayence is more picturesque, particularly when we get in view of the town. We pass through a handsome barrack, situated on the verge of the river, proceeding across a long wooden bridge that leads to the town. Opposite to this wooden bridge, are placed seventeen watermills for grinding flour, which were then busily at work.

The town is surrounded by very deep rampart ditches, faced with strong stone walls, a very good promenade, and a number of small gardens with clipt hedges, near the edge of the Rhine, where there is an avenue that extends along its banks formed by large trees of Poplar and Robinias. At a short distance from Mayence, but on the opposite side and close to the banks of the river is a very fine old castellated building, and a small village adjoining, which form a prominent feature in the scenery from the Mayence bridge.

Sept. 19th. Left Mayence per steam packet for Bonn. For the first two hours, we made scarcely any progress, owing to the dense fog, which we were all anxious to see disperse, in order that the beautiful scenery might be seen to full advantage: it was however not before nine o'clock, that the banks of the Rhine were quite clear, when the packet began to make a rapid progress, and passing rapidly along between numerous stupendous rocks, old castles, and small towns situated close by the river side.

The banks of the Rhine are extensively cultivated as vineyards. When we arrived at Katz, which is considered about the middle of the best scenery, we met the other steam packet, coming up at Werlau. The scenery here is truly grand; the high mountainous rocks and old castellated ruins, with the various undulations and other objects, render this region highly picturesque. There is a pretty town close by the water edge, with white houses, and corresponding village on the opposite side, and another appearing just at the extremity of a deep valley in prospect. The old castle called Marksburg, is a prominent object, but to attempt to describe or enumerate all the various features of interest that come under observation in passing along the Rhine, would be an endless task. The scenery at Coblentz is very beautiful, with its bridge of boats across the Rhine, similar to that at Mayence. A large rock called the Stromberg, is very picturesque, with the castellated ruins at the top, and several other rocks of smaller dimensions in its vicinity, nearly opposite to which the Rhine surrounds a small island. This may be considered about the last of the romantic scenery that comes in view, as we pass down the Rhine.

Arrived at Bonn, about five o'clock, where I experienced some difficulty in getting a lodging, in consequence of the great meeting of scientific professors having been here congregated. After at last finding admittance in a hotel, I proceeded to the Botanic garden, which is situated about a mile from the town, surrounding the south and east sides of the university, and containing a very handsome range of hothouses, from three to four hundred feet in length, which also form nearly a line, or a range, with the principle front of the university. The hothouses are in five divisions, and contain an extensive collection of _Ferns_ and _Graminea_; many of the stove plants were in a very luxuriant state, and looked very healthy. Behind this range is the annual ground, where the different species are cultivated, which appeared to occupy about an acre: there are several low pits placed in this department, for the growth of _Cacteæ_, and _Orchideæ_, and other dwarf-growing species; but the collection of _Cacteæ_ and _Orchideæ_ is very limited. Immediately in front of the range of hothouses, is an arboretum of hardy trees and shrubs, much too crowded, and planted too close to the hothouses, and is continued in a manner round the two ends and south side of the garden. Opposite the principal front of the university, is arranged the collection of _Herbaceous_ plants, according to the natural system, but the beds are all of an oblong form, with broad alleys or foot-paths, betwixt them: an extensive collection of the hardy flowering perennial plants was grown in the _Herbaceous_ ground, but the variety of hardy trees and shrubs appeared to be very limited. There were placed along the front of the university several clumps of green-house plants, and orange trees.

The university was formerly a royal palace, but the lower apartments are now devoted to collections of natural history; the length of the front measures eighty eight yards, and appeared to be about square, with an inner court. On my return, I met with professor Treveranes, and gave him a letter of introduction that I had from Sir W. Hooker. I learned from the professor, that the prince of Salm-Dyck was then in Bonn, attending the scientific meeting, and if I did not see him that evening, I should not be able to see him at all; having a letter of introduction to his highness from Sir W. Hooker, and from Mr. Sabine, and being anxious to see the prince, if possible, I made the best of my way back to Bonn, to the hotel where the prince was stated to be residing; but on enquiring there, finding he had gone out, I immediately proceeded in search of the prince to another hotel to which I had been directed. After waiting some time, I found his highness had not arrived, but was expected very soon. I therefore amused myself in looking through several splendid apartments which were then occupied by a large number of ladies and gentlemen, who meet at this hotel or club-house every night, to supper and various amusements. At last I was informed that the prince had just arrived, when I delivered my letters of introduction, and apologised for intruding at that unseasonable time. The Prince appointed me to be with him at nine o'clock the following morning, when his Highness was pleased to give me a letter to his gardener at Salm-Dyck, directing him to shew me the grounds and collections under his care.

Sept. 20th. After my return from the prince, I made another excursion to the Botanic garden, where I again saw the professor Treveranes, who had not accompanied his learned brethren to Cologne, who to the number of about four hundred had departed that morning for that town.

I took a walk on my return from the Botanic gardens round the environs, and was much pleased by the objects of interest that displayed in different directions. The scenery around Bonn is particularly fine, and some good prospects from a hill, at a short distance from the town; but as I intended starting by the early steam packet, I had not time to reach its summit, although very inviting.

The Cathedral is a very fine building, and its interior handsomely fitted up.

The packet arrived at half-past two o'clock: I took my departure for Dusseldorf, and passed by Cologne, where, I imagine, there must have been several thousand people assembled on the harbour and bridge.

We now changed packets for one of less dimensions and splendour, and arrived at Dusseldorf about half-past ten o'clock. The scenery from Cologne to Dusseldorf was flat, and but little varied; in short Bonn is the termination of picturesque scenery.

At Dusseldorf, I had but little difficulty in finding a hotel, as they were not so much crowded as at Bonn.

Sept. 21st. Started at six o'clock, a. m. for prince Salm-Dyck's Château, which is situated about ten miles from Dusseldorf, on the opposite side of the Rhine, which is crossed in a flat barge, and passes through the ancient town of Neuss, at which place Buonaparte's design of connecting the Rhine, Scheldt, and Meuse, is nearly completed.

The suburbs of Neuss abound in numerous vegetable gardens, enclosed with well clipt hedges. The ground in this part of the country, is a strong rich looking yellowish loam, and produces strong crops of corn, clover, and potatoes. The road however leading through a part of this country to the prince's palace, is very much out of repair, and appeared to have been neglected for a considerable time.

On arriving at the palace, I immediately found out M. Funck, the prince's gardener, and delivered to him my letters of introduction from the prince, and from M. Otto, of Berlin. The garden ground attached to this residence, contains one hundred and eighty German acres; the surface is considerably varied, and consists of numerous fine trees and shrubs grouped together on the lawn, the rising ground being judiciously planted with the loftiest growing sorts, and kept towards the extremity of the arboretum; amongst these I observed some very fine specimens of beeches and oaks; the beeches were particularly fine.

I saw here the _Gleditschia tricantha_, 50 feet high, and the _Populus Canadensis_ eleven feet in circumference, by about sixty in height; also a fine specimen of _Acer dasycarpum_. The trees in this arboretum are arranged according to the system of _Jussieu_; there is likewise a natural arrangement of herbaceous plants nearer to the palace and green houses. I here observed a good collection of _Pæonias_, but the prince excels most in the _Succulent_ tribe of plants, such as the _Cacteæ_, _Mesembryanthemum_, and _Aloes_.

Although the _Cacteæ_ are very numerous they were not such fine specimens as in the Berlin garden. A sheet of water encloses, in a manner, the greater part of the palace and its offices, and from the windows it has a very fine effect, with its bold sweeping banks extending along the arboretum, where a pretty wooden bridge appears in view. The hothouses are rather in a decayed state; but M. Funck informed me that the prince intended re-building them. In the greenhouse are some very rare specimens of _Yuccas_ and _Aloes_. I understood from M. Funck that Mr. Hitchen, of Norwich, had the greater part of his celebrated collection from this garden, whence I also anticipate receiving, ere long, not a few rarities.

In going through the interior of the palace I saw a number of very old paintings, many of which represented former princes of Salm-dyck, but they are not in a good state of preservation; the rooms and furniture are of antique appearance, as well as the exterior of the palace. After spending several hours in inspecting the plants and grounds, I returned to Dusseldorf, to see the botanic garden belonging to that town, which is certainly neither difficult to get over, nor to see its contents, the space of ground being very contracted, and the plants also few in number.

They principally consisted of annuals; with a few rare species of _Cacteæ_, not easily to be met with. I was, however, more pleased with the public garden or promenade, which surrounds the town, and is very extensive; it is particularly well laid out with fine broad walks, clumps of trees and shrubs, and lawn intervening, and great variation of surface, with different points of view commanding fine prospects of the Rhine, with its boats and steam packets.

There is in this promenade a fine avenue of _Populus dilatata_, as well as the _Tilia Europæa_, (Lime tree,) also several pieces of water, the outline of some formed with much taste and intricacy, while others are left rather formal; but, on the whole, little room is left for criticism. Dusseldorf is a handsome town, and contains about 18,000 inhabitants; with good streets and well built houses.

Sept. 22nd. Left Dusseldorf by diligence at eight o'clock, a.m.; and passed by the palace of prince Frederic, which is situated close by the road side, in front of which the orange trees and sheets of water appear very conspicuous. The gardens are said to contain a good collection of plants.

Arrived at Cologne at one o'clock. This town is of considerable extent and traffic, and has a population of upwards of 50,000 inhabitants. The great object of attraction for the stranger is the magnificent church, or cathedral, one of the finest in Europe, the dome one hundred and eighty feet high, and the interior illuminated with beautiful stained glass windows; the portraits as large as life, and magnificently executed. I was, however, more pleased by the exquisite architecture of the exterior; when finished, the effect will be grand in the extreme. On the south side of the town are strong fortifications, opposite to which is a promenade, that runs along a narrow slip of plantation on the exterior side of them. There are also numerous fields for the growth of vegetables. I here observed a small nursery garden well stocked with fruit trees and shrubs. At a short distance from this I saw a large building which I concluded to be a military barrack or magazine, which was guarded by soldiers. By the time that I had completed my survey of the town, I found that it was approaching to the hour that the diligence was to leave for Aix-la-Chapelle. I started about seven o'clock in the evening for this town, where we arrived at four o'clock the following morning.

Sept. 23rd. Having a few hours to stop before the diligence set out, I proceeded to the cathedral, where the celebration of the mass was performing. It is a very splendid building, the interior highly ornamented on the ceiling with fine fresco paintings.

The town hall, or now police office, is also a very magnificent building; I observed some fine paintings in the interior.

The several celebrated mineral springs in this town are nearly as hot as those at Baden; leading from the Baths, is a handsome street and a number of good houses, that appeared to have been recently erected. At a short distance from the town is a prettily planted hill, which must command a fine prospect from its top of the surrounding country and scenery; but my time would not permit a visit to it. In the vicinity of Aix-la-Chapelle are numerous market gardens, but I observed no nursery stock. The road leading from hence to Liege is considerably varied, and the ground apparently of a rich fertile nature. The town of Liege is situated in a beautiful valley, at the junction of the river Meuse with the Ourthe, and surrounded by hills and fertile pasture, the latter being watered by three rivers, the Ourthe, the Vestre, and the Meuse.

This city contains a great many very fine built houses, and is much celebrated for its various manufactories, which principally consist of marble, coal, iron, and various other hardware articles. The old palace is a fine antique building of the Ionic order; the different apartments in it were then undergoing a thorough repair. The viranda that surrounds the inner square is now formed into an arcade of shops. From this palace I proceeded to the old citadel on mount St. Walburgh, which commands a fine view of the town, the river Meuse, and the surrounding scenery, for several miles in extent.

Sept. 24th. Went this morning to the cathedral, the architectural arrangements of which are very imposing; the interior decorations are well deserving of the stranger's notice, as well as its richly ornamented ceiling, and beautifully painted windows, and several fine pictures and groups of sculpture. I next proceeded to M. Makoy's nursery, which is situated about two or three English miles from the town. It contains an extensive collection of plants, which are extremely well grown, and all in fine saleable condition. The spirited proprietor was then erecting another extensive range of hothouses, and heating it with hot water, which, together with the numerous houses he has already, will extend his plant houses to about six hundred feet in length. In this nursery I observed one of the best collections of green-house plants, that I met with on the continent; they were undoubtedly not surpassed in their growth by any collection that I have seen; the _Camellias_, _Cacteæ_, and orchideous plants, also form a prominent feature in this establishment, as well as the collection of _Azaleas_, and _Rhododendrons_, which were all in fine condition, the nursery ground in good keeping, and well stocked with fruit trees.

On my return I visited the botanic garden, which surrounds the university, and contains nearly two English acres of ground, in which is cultivated a good collection of hardy perennials, and _Gramineæ_ plants. There are also three hothouses for the growth of tropical and Cape plants. In the stove I observed a very fine specimen of the _Dracæna Draco_, (Dragon tree,) which was twenty two feet high; the _Caladium lacerum_ had also attained the height of fifteen feet; there was likewise a very fine plant of the _Crinum amabile_, then in flower. The university is a magnificent building, and is at present having large additions made to it.

I started at twelve o'clock for Namur. The road, leading along the river Meuse, is extremely picturesque, the large rocks and varied surface give it a fine appearance. Along the banks by the road side I observed the common box growing in great abundance. We skirted an extensive tract of vineyards, which are cultivated along the banks or rising ground on the right side of the river Meuse, as we pass from Liege to Huy. At this town we cross the river by a stone bridge. Huy contains a number of well built houses, and is pleasantly situated, being surrounded by lofty rocks, with a strong fortification. The road skirting the river Meuse from Huy to Namur, appeared to me to be of the most romantic and beautiful scenery that I had previously met with, particularly a part of it, when approaching within a few miles of Namur, where the rocks and varied surface give it a most interesting appearance. In a picturesque spot on this line of road we have in full view the summer chateau of the prince d'Aremberg, as well as various other handsome residences.

Arrived at seven o'clock in the evening at Namur, when there commenced a tremendous storm of thunder and lightning and rain, which continued for several hours. Namur is a strongly fortified town, situated in a valley, at the junction of the rivers Meuse and Sambre. The cathedral is an object of interest; but as I left the same evening by diligence for Mons, I was unable to see this noble structure.

The view from the bridge opposite the fortifications has a grand appearance to the eye of the stranger. Left Namur at half past nine o'clock, and arrived at Mons at ten o'clock the following morning.

Sept. 25th. Mons is a strongly fortified town, and abounds with market gardens in the environs. It appeared to be the centre of a great agricultural district. Coal-works are likewise very abundant in its vicinity.

I proceeded from this town to Bel[oe]il in a cabriolet; passing through a fertile country, and a fine plantation belonging to the Prince de Ligne, which contained some fine beech trees, with numerous avenues, but a horrid road; the wheels of the cabriolet sinking up near to the axeltree for the greater part of the journey. On my arrival at Bel[oe]il I was unfortunate in not finding the Prince at home, as I had a letter of introduction to his highness from Sir Robert Adair. I found some difficulty in obtaining admittance into the gardens; but on the arrival of a gentleman belonging to the establishment, he gave orders to one of the guards to conduct me through the grounds to the kitchen garden. The palace is surrounded by water, and at the principal front is a large oblong sheet of water, with a large mass of sculpture at its extremity. The prospect from the palace windows, along this piece of water and the avenue, which is formed by high clipped hornbeam hedges, as well as by the lime-tree, appeared very fine, and extended for several miles in a straight direction. The grounds are very extensive, and intersected by numerous avenues of hornbeam hedges, which are of great height, with various arborial windows cut in them from eight to ten feet from the ground. In short, the number of avenues and well-clipt hedges that lead in every direction through these grounds, render it a place well worthy of a visit, and constitute a different feature in gardening from what is generally to be met with elsewhere.

The Prince has an extensive range of houses for the growth of exotics, all connected with a large opaque-roofed orangery, which forms a centre to the range; the wings are of different heights, and have a very good effect. I here observed a more magnificent _Araucaria excelsa_ than I had previously seen, with the exception of that at Dropmore, which is much larger, and more beautiful. This orangery is a capacious building, principally erected with red brick, with upright lights only in front, the roof being slated. It contains a large assortment of orange trees, in good health. There is also a house devoted to _Camellias_, containing about two hundred and forty sorts. The botanic stoves are well stocked with healthy plants, but there are very few of the new or lately introduced species amongst them. I observed here a very fine specimen of the _Coccoloba pubescens_, the leaves of which appeared to me to be more luxuriant than on any other plant of this species that I had previously seen. The _Urania speciosa_ was also particularly fine, and several other kinds in a flourishing state.

In the same compartment with the plant-houses is placed an extensive range of pine-apple and melon-pits, as well as several structures of peach and vine framing. In the kitchen-garden a large assortment of the hardy fruits are cultivated, especially pears and apples; the former are trained as standards along the borders, in a pyramidal form, and appeared to produce excellent crops. The kitchen-gardens and pleasure-grounds, although very extensive, were in a very rough state; the only part kept in good order seemed to be the plant-houses and hedges.

From Bel[oe]il I proceeded to Ath, a very strongly fortified town. The country from Prince de Ligne's to Ath is very fine, and consists of a rich agricultural soil in a high state of cultivation, producing excellent crops. The town is said to contain about 80,000 inhabitants; the ancient tower of Brabant forms a prominent object, and the church of Julien is well worth notice.

Sept. 26th. Left Ath at eight o'clock in the morning, in a cabriolet, for Enghien, which is only a small town; but the fine park, and gardens belonging to the duke d'Aremberg, which are situated close to the town, are objects of general attraction. Unfortunately the castle or mansion was burned down during the late revolution, and his highness now chiefly resides in an ancient mansion near Louvain. The duke has lately built a very fine range of hothouses for the growth of tropical plants; they are four hundred and sixty feet long, and are divided into several divisions; the centre, which is occupied as a stove for the more lofty of the tropical plants, is sixty-six feet long, thirty four high, and twenty five wide. In this house the _Urania speciosa_ had attained the height of thirty three feet; the _Displotanium argenteum_ also thirty three feet; this is a beautiful _Palm_. The _Caryota urens_ had likewise grown to the height of thirty two feet; the circumference of its stem at six inches from the ground is three feet three inches, gradually tapering towards the top. _Cycas circinalis_, fourteen feet in height and very healthy; the _Corypha umbraculifera_ twenty four feet in height, a very beautiful palm; and a very fine specimen of the _Latania rubra_, the _Carolina princeps_, had reached the top of the house, and had been cut back. Numerous other species were here in a very healthy state, and a very extensive collection of Cape and New Holland plants. This extensive range is handsomely finished with cut stone parapet walls, and projecting cornice over the top lights. There is another range about one hundred and thirty feet long, with span roof, separate from the principal range, in which are cultivated pines, bulbs, and various other plants. In front of these ranges of hothouses is a large lawn, with several clumps of the different species of hardy plants, which are also extensively cultivated in this establishment. A handsome temple is situated at a short distance from the gardens, which is surrounded by water, from this temple diverge seven fine beech and horse-chesnut avenues, looking in as many directions; between each are smaller avenues parallel to them, which are terminated by handsome stone vases. At a short distance from the avenues is the orangery, which is of large dimensions, with an opaque roof; The orange trees were very healthy, and formed an avenue in front of the house. M. Bedinghans, the gardener, informed me that they only shifted them once in five years, in a mixture of loam and leaf-mould, with a little cow-dung intermixed. At the back of the orangery are several arched walks, formed by hornbeam hedges, with arborial windows cut in them; they form a pleasant and shady promenade during the summer months. The park is also very extensive and considerably varied in its surface.

M. Bedinghans is a native of Germany, and a very intelligent young man, seemingly much attached to his business. He accompanied me to the nursery garden of M. Parmentier, which is situated in the town of Enghien. In this establishment, there is a celebrated collection of plants, amongst which I observed a fine specimen of the _Melocactus mitriformis_ which measured three feet in circumference, and eighteen inches in height; and _Melocactus hystrix_ also a very fine plant. The _Echinocactus boutillieri_, is a beautiful specimen; _Cereus bonplandia_, _Mammillaria acanthoplegma_, _melocactus macrocanthus_; for a plant of this latter species M. Parmentier asked three hundred francs. The _Zamia furfuracea_ is also very fine; as well as beautiful specimens of the following, _Wallichia caryotoides_, _Borassus flabelliformis_, _Latania glaucophylla_, _Pandanus turbinatus_, _amaryllifolius_, _f[oe]tidus_, _bromelifolius_, _glaucus_, _candalabrium_. The _pinus Damara_ M. Parmentier valued at fifty guineas, and the _Magnolia plumieri_, from the Island of St. Domingo, at eighty guineas: the _Butea superba_ a fine plant, and fine specimens of the following species: _Sterculia villosa_, _Stanhopea occulenta_, _Careya sphærica_, _Theoprastus Americanus_, _Gesnera barbata_, _Boronia grandiceps_, _Pinus pinnata_, and _Mexicana_; with numerous other rare species. Above four hundred sorts of _Camellias_, and upwards of five hundred kinds of _Cacteæ_, are cultivated in this fine collection.