Chapter VI (5)

9th.—Leaving at seven in the morning, did not halt till we arrived at La Zumee, a small town, with a good population, at three in the afternoon. On my entering, perceived two men sitting under the date-tree, one of whom having a tobe on, I saluted, thinking him to be the chief; but was surprised at his telling me he was a Kano merchant, and that the person by his side was that individual. The chief is a mean and dirty looking old man, and had a sheep-skin covered with filth tied round his waist. After showing me a hut, and staying away two hours, he came back, and apologized for not sending me provisions, saying his wives were at work in the gardens, but that on their return I should have some: accordingly, about three hours after, they brought me a couple of fowls, and some tuah and rice; for which I gave them a pair of scissors and fifty needles. Surrounding the town is a remarkably broad and deep ditch, which appeared to have been formerly filled with water. The country in the vicinity of the town is well cultivated. The Catica or Bowchee people do not possess a single bullock.

10th.—Arose at six in the morning, and pursuing a S.W. direction, over a fine and rich country, arrived at Coorokoo, a small walled town, environed with hills, at twelve.

11th.—Started at half-past seven in the morning, and halted at twelve at noon on the north-east side of the banks of a large river, rolling to the north-west, called Coodoonia, which empties itself into the Niger, near Funda. Finding it too deep to cross, we were obliged to remain till next day without food.

12th.—Crossed the river at nine o’clock this morning, the water reaching to our chins; and immediately proceeded towards Cuttup, where we arrived after three hours’ travelling. Having heard, on my route, so many different reports of Cuttup, its wealth, population, and celebrated market, I was rather surprised on finding it to consist of nearly five hundred small villages, almost adjoining each other; nearly the whole of which occupy a vast and beautiful plain, adorned with the finest trees. Here, for the first time since leaving the coast, I saw plantain, palm, and cocoa-nut trees, in great abundance, and in a flourishing condition; the country resembling, in a striking manner, some parts of Yariba. A considerable traffic is carried on here in slaves and bullocks; the latter are bred by Fellatas, a great number of whom reside here for no other purpose. Slaves, as well as bullocks and sheep, are exposed in the market, which is held daily; and also red cloth, gum, salt, goora nuts, trona, beads, tobacco, country cloth, rings, needles, cutlery articles, and honey, rice, milk, &c. People from the most distant parts of the country resort here in vast numbers, to purchase these various articles. The sultan being a very great man, I thought it necessary to make him a present worthy the representative (however humble) of the king of England. I accordingly gave him four yards of blue damask, the same quantity of scarlet ditto, a print of my own gracious sovereign, and one of his royal highness the Duke of York, with several more trifling articles. In return, I received from him a sheep, the humps of two bullocks, and stewed rice sufficient for fifty men. Ten of the king’s wives, on paying me a visit a day or two after my arrival, took a fancy to the gilt buttons on my jacket, which I cut off and presented to their sable majesties. Thinking them to be gold, they immediately stuck them in their ears. In this belief I took care not to undeceive them.

During my stay at Cuttup I was never in want of a bullock’s hump (by far the best part of the animal, weighing from twelve to fifteen pounds), for the king invariably receives, as a tax from the butchers, the hump of every bullock they slaughtered; and one or two was sent me by his wives each day. Being in want of money, I sent to the market and informed the people I had needles and beads to sell; on which several buyers came into my hut and purchased freely, giving me fifteen or twenty cowries each for the needles, whilst the Arabs could only get ten at most for theirs; but whether they conceived my needles to be superior, or whether it was the desire of obtaining something of a white man, I did not learn. Unlike the princes of Houssa, Borgoo, Nyffé, Cuttumkora, and other places in the interior, the sultan of Cuttup gives his wives unrestricted liberty.

An old woman came to me one afternoon, full of grief, informing me of her having frequently been robbed of the little money she had saved from her earnings, from holes in her hut, where she had hid it, by some of her neighbours and acquaintances. She entreated me to let her have a charm to prevent such dishonest acts in future. Being ever willing to oblige the simple-hearted Africans, I gave her a tea-spoonful of common sweet oil, in a small phial, telling her that she must, on her return to her hut, pour it into the hole in which she intended concealing her money; and that if any one but herself touched the money while there, without her permission, he would not long survive. I advised her by all means to give the virtues of this charm as extensive a circulation as possible, and I had no doubt she would not be robbed again. The poor old woman could not express the gratitude she felt for my kindness; she dropped on her knees before me, thanked me in the warmest terms, and pressed me to accept of forty cowries, the only money she had then in the world. Of course I refused to deprive the old woman of her substance, and sent her away highly pleased with the treatment she had received.

16th.—Having paid my respects to the king and his wives last evening, left Cuttup at six in the morning; and pursuing a south-west direction till half-past one, when we proceeded due south, arrived at Coogie, a small town, at half-past three in the afternoon. Owing to the bites and stings of myriads of flies, the asses, for the whole of the journey, were restive and unmanageable, frequently throwing off their loads, and detaining us on the way by their wanton pranks. The roads were of the very worst description; at one moment obliged to carry the loads ourselves over dangerous precipices, and at the next up to our waist in mud and water on the low grounds. Two Fellatas came to see me this day, but made no observations.

17th.—Pursuing our journey at half-past five in the morning, arrived at a town called Dungoora at two in the afternoon. It rained heavily during this day’s journey, and consequently got wet to the skin on halting. The water rushed in torrents through the valleys, and in some places on the hills the beasts sank to their knees in mud and dirt. Crossed a large river to-day, named Rary, flowing to the south-east, our course being to the south-south-west. The country traversed is hilly and thickly wooded; the soil rich and fertile. Not being able to obtain provisions, and every article being wet through, obliged to remain in our wet clothes all night, without fire or food.

18th.—At 6 A.M. proceeded on our journey, and arrived at Dunrora at 6 P.M. Our route, some parts of the day, lay over steep and craggy precipices, some of them being of a most awful height. On the summit of one of these places the path was barely wide enough for a single beast to pass. The horse that carried the portmanteaus, in which were the journal, papers, watches, &c. struck himself against a piece of rock projecting over the road, and was precipitated a distance of eighty yards, the ropes which were bound round the portmanteaus arresting his further progress. I was horror-struck on observing the poor little animal tumbling head over heels down the frightful declivity, and was much afraid he would be dashed to pieces, the portmanteaus broken, and their contents destroyed; but was most happy to see him entangled in some stunted trees which fortunately grew on the side of the precipice, which is seven hundred yards in height. This accident occasioned us two hours’ delay; but the horse was not materially hurt. We had been travelling about half an hour after leaving this spot, when we came to a place from which there was an extensive and beautiful prospect of the surrounding country; and eight days’ journey might plainly be seen before us. I halted for a moment to gaze upon the fine and noble scene around me. About half a day’s journey to the east stood a lofty hill, at the foot of which lay the large city of Jacoba. Mahomet affirmed that there is a river called Shar, or Sharry, about half a mile from that place, which derives its source from the lake Tchad; and that canoes can go from the lake to the Niger at any season of the year. The Sharry empties itself into the Niger at Funda; and the Niger, after leaving the towns of Cuttum Currijee, Gattoo, and Jibboo, joins the salt water, but at what particular place Mahomet could not rightly inform me, never having heard the word “Benin” mentioned before. Funda lies due west of Dunrora. Not being aware that the chief of Dunrora was so very great a man, I this day sent him only a pair of scissors and fifty needles, which were shortly afterwards returned to me with a request that I would give them to a less exalted personage. On asking the reason of this conduct, the people informed me I had insulted the dignity of their chief by offering so trifling a present, he being a mighty man. Not feeling disposed, however, to add any thing else to it, I sent back the messenger empty-handed. Dunrora contains 4000 inhabitants.

FROM DUNRORA BACK TO ZEGZEG.

19th.—This morning as I was loading my beasts, and preparing to depart, I perceived four armed men ride up at full gallop to the residence of the chief, their horses covered with foam and perspiration. The chief had no sooner been made acquainted with their errand than he came to me, followed by an immense multitude of people, and gave me to understand that I must immediately return with the messengers, who had just arrived, to the king of Zegzeg, who much wished to see me. I remonstrated with him on the injustice of the command, telling him it was a hard case I should go back to Zegzeg, having proceeded so far on my way unmolested: his only reply was, that if he suffered me to depart he should lose his head. Finding entreaty and persuasion useless, I consented, with a bad grace, to return with the messengers. Thus, after seventeen days’ perilous travelling from Kano, with a fair prospect of reaching Funda in twelve or thirteen more, from whence four days’ sail would bring me to the salt water, a new country opening before me, and filled with the most lively anticipations of solving the geographical problem which had for so long a time puzzled Europeans, of ascertaining whether the Niger actually joins the sea in that direction, was I obliged to abandon my fondest and long cherished hopes, and return to Zegzeg; from thence to be transported the Lord knew whither. I felt depressed and unhappy at this sudden turn in my affairs, and cared not much whether I lived or died. We left the town in the course of the day, and entered Cuttup by the same route I had taken on the 21st.

I was attacked with dysentery on my arrival, and remained at Cuttup four days, much against the inclination of my guards; suffering during that period, and indeed for several days after, more dreadfully than I can describe.

25th.—Left Cuttup by another route at eight in the morning, accompanied by two messengers on foot, in lieu of the horsemen, who, on finding me very tractable, and too ill to make the least exertion, had thought them strong enough to guard me. After proceeding in a northerly direction till twelve, reached an insignificant village, forming part of Cuttup. The country traversed level, but thickly wooded, and fertile.

26th.—Arose at 6 A.M., and did not halt till ten at night, when we fixed our tent on a clear space in the midst of a large wood; vast quantities of bamboo, palm, and cocoa-nut trees growing in every direction. The asses were very troublesome to-day, having been annoyed by the forest flies; myriads of which swarm in the woods, and alight in great numbers on men and animals. These insects bit the asses so severely that the blood streamed copiously from their sides and legs, and made them so restive that they frequently flung off their loads, and rolled themselves on the ground. Being unable to procure any better provisions, we contented ourselves with a little boiled corn. Although still very ill, found myself greatly improved.

27th.—At seven in the morning proceeded, and after a fatiguing journey, reached a Bowchee village, named Cokalo, at 2 P.M. The inhabitants being very poor, could procure nothing but corn. The chief of the village had made a fetish, and having roasted a dog, stewed a large snake in oil and water, and boiled a good deal of corn, invited his people to a feast, of which they partook freely. A small bowl of boiled corn, enriched with a portion of the reptile, and the liquid in which it had been dressed, was sent me from the chief’s table. Supposing it to be fish on the boiled corn, I ate a mouthful or two, but there being a peculiar, and not disagreeable flavour with it, I cursorily asked a person, who stood by my side, what kind of fish I was eating; but on his telling me it was part of the snake, I could eat no more. Pascoe, however, was not quite so fastidious, and consumed the remainder with great relish, declaring that, in his opinion, it was much superior to dried ling.

28th.—Proceeding this morning at eight, arrived an hour after on the banks of the Coodoonia; but here it was broader, deeper, and more rapid than at Cuttup. In attempting to convey, on a small bamboo raft, one of my portmanteaus to the opposite side, found it would not bear its weight, and snatched it from the raft just in time to save it from sinking. Finding it, therefore, dangerous to cross, till the river became more shallow, I strenuously refused to accede to the wishes of the messengers, who strongly urged the necessity of my reaching Zegzeg as quickly as possible; observing, that I would neither risk my property nor person on so weak and dangerous a conveyance. They abused me in the most insolent terms, and threatened to go immediately and inform their king of my refusal to proceed. I desired them to give my best respects to his Zegzeg majesty, and told them they were at liberty to go as soon as they pleased. They left me in great anger, cursing me as they went; whilst I slowly proceeded with my horses and asses to the village we had left in the morning.

Whether the messengers did or did not go to Zegzeg I cannot tell, but they did not return till the 11th July following. I remained all that time in the village, very ill, with nothing to eat but boiled corn, not by any means relishing their roasted dogs. The inhabitants, who came by hundreds each day to visit me, were destitute of apparel of any kind, but, nevertheless, behaved in a modest and becoming manner. The men did not appear to have any occupation or employment whatever, and spent their time in loitering about the village. The women were generally engaged most of the day in manufacturing an oil from a small black seed and the guinea nut.

July 11th.—The messengers being returned, came to me, and, in a very submissive tone, requested me to accompany them, as the king did not think it proper to permit me to go any where until I had first seen him. Accordingly I loaded my beasts, and followed them a second time to the river, but found it still much too deep to walk through; and one bamboo raft being too small to bear a heavy article, I caused two to be lashed together, which answered the purpose extremely well. The portmanteaus, &c. were first taken over; and I, laying myself flat on my face, was next ferried across by the two messengers, who swam behind, and dexterously propelled it forward with their hands. The horses and asses were not quite so fortunate; the current being strong and rapid, they were borne by it nearly a quarter of a mile from the place at which they entered the water. Every thing being at length safely landed on the opposite side, at 11 P.M. left the banks of the river, and pursuing a north-east course till sunset, pitched our tent on a rising ground near a small stream. The asses have been again troublesome the whole of the way.

12th.—Leaving at half-past six in the morning, pitched our tent outside a small walled town called Accoran, the first I had seen since leaving Nammaleek, at two in the afternoon. The west end of the town is defended by an immense naked rock, and the other parts by a mud wall and a deep ditch. It is inhabited by Bowchee people, miserably poor, who could not sell us even a single goat or fowl. A thunder-storm came on this afternoon, with its usual violence, accompanied with vivid lightning and floods of rain, which continued the whole of the night.

13th.—Started at eight in the morning, and reached Cowroo at three in the afternoon. The country traversed differed but little from that previously mentioned. The palm and cocoa-nut trees, however, which had been so plentiful since leaving Cuttup, suddenly disappeared, and I saw no more of them till our arrival near the sea-coast in Yariba. Crossed several streams in the day, and numerous steep and craggy but low mountains lay on our left and right, on the very summits of which small villages are built; the roads leading to them must be extremely dangerous. Remained here three days, in order to refresh my men and beasts. The chief is a fine looking man, and was very neatly dressed in a plain white tobe and trousers, his feet bare, and stained red. I gave him an old piece of carpeting, a scarlet cap, white turban, and a gilt chain, in return for abundance of excellent provisions, &c. The inhabitants of the town are principally Houssa people.

17th.—Started at seven in the morning, and keeping a north-east course, reached a large river called Makammee, running southerly, which derives its name from a town at a short distance. Were ferried across in a canoe, which cost one hundred needles and sixty cowries. On landing on the opposite side, suddenly altered our route to due east, and arrived at the town of Makammee, at two in the afternoon. Sent the chief a paper of unwrought silk, fifty needles, and a pair of scissors, which he was very grateful for, and returned me two fish, weighing seven or eight pounds each, and plenty of other provisions.

18th.—At six in the morning proceeded, and travelling north by east till twelve at noon, halted at Wautorah, another walled town. The chief sent me some _tuah_ and corn; but there being no poultry to be had, shot a few pigeons, which surprised and terrified the inhabitants to an alarming degree. Gave the chief a pair of scissors and a hundred needles.

19th.—This morning, it being damp and foggy, Mahomet and the two messengers refused to proceed, and told me I might go alone, thinking to detain me in the town till it would be too late to leave this day; but ordering Pascoe and his wife to assist me, loaded the beasts, and went on without them. Unfortunately the path leading to some gardens belonging to the inhabitants of Wautorah misled me. I had gone some distance when, discovering my mistake, instead of returning to the beaten track the way I came, crossed the country in order to save time; but owing to the marshy nature of the ground, and the swamps, which were numerous, did not get into the proper path till four in the afternoon; when, after travelling two hours on it, the beast became fatigued and exhausted, in consequence of which fixed the tent by the road-side; and being much distressed for water, luckily slaked my thirst from some which, oozing from the fissures of a neighbouring rock, I was enabled to obtain in small quantities.

20th.—At six in the morning proceeded on the path, and crossing a large river running to the south at one, entered a spacious town named Eggebee at two in the afternoon; the chief of which is one of the king of Zegzeg’s principal fighting men. Eggebee is an extremely neat as well as large town, surrounded with a high wall, and situated in the centre of a fine and highly-cultivated plain. Nothing can be more beautiful than the appearance of the country for miles round. Lofty trees, covered with the most beautiful foliage, casting their welcome shade along the earth; plots of ground, planted with corn, every here and there enriching the landscape, and vegetation springing up at every step in the richest luxuriance, afforded a gratifying and delightful relief to the sameness of African scenery, which is welcomed with emotions of pleasure that a person who has never wandered in these regions can never know. The town contains six or seven thousand inhabitants, who are all dressed with peculiar neatness; while the cleanliness they display, both in their huts and persons, strongly reminded me of my own far-distant country.

21st.—Left Eggebee at six in the morning, and travelling till two in the afternoon, were obliged to fix our tent in the midst of a wood, the asses being completely exhausted. No village being near, could obtain no provisions. Our course this day was northerly.

22d.—Started at five in the morning, and entered Zegzeg at twelve at noon. The country the whole of the way from the “bush” is rich and fertile, principally laid out in gardens. The king of Zegzeg did not see me this day, but ordered me to lodge at the house of Abbel Crême, in which my late master and myself stopped on our way to Kano. In the evening plenty of provisions were sent by the king.

23d.—Visited the king this morning, taking with me four yards of blue, and the same quantity of scarlet damask; four yards of blue and scarlet silk, a gilt chain, six prints, among which is one of his majesty, and another of the duke of York, two pair of scissors, a quire of paper, a scarlet cap, six yards of white muslin, and a blank drawing book. This present pleased him highly; and not long after my return to my lodgings, he sent me two fine bullocks. The chief subsequently told me that the reason for his ordering me to be brought back to Zegzeg was on account of the war between Sultan Bello and the king of Funda, who would murder me as soon as he had me in his power, for having taken presents to his powerful enemy: it was therefore doing me a great act of favour. Abbel Crême, my host, thought it necessary for me to give something to the king’s eldest son: I accordingly presented him, shortly afterwards, with two yards of blue and scarlet damask, an unwritten journal-book, half a canister of powder, a quire of paper, and a gilt chain. The prince is a remarkably fine and handsome young man, about twenty-two years of age, and was particularly kind to me. As an especial mark of favour, he took me into his inner apartments to see his wives, fifty in number, who, on my entrance, were all sitting in the shade outside their huts, and industriously occupied in preparing cotton, making thread, and weaving it into cloth. The prince said, “I have brought the Christian to see you.” They no sooner looked up than they all instantly dropped their work, and ran, or rather flew, into their coozies, and I saw no more of them. Four of these ladies reside together in one coozie. In the course of the day the prince offered me a young female slave, named Aboudah, for a wife! I accepted of her with gratitude, as I knew she would be serviceable to me on my journey, and I should also have the satisfaction of giving her her freedom on arriving at the sea-coast. Mahomet came to me to-day, having just returned from Wantorah; but he had used me so ill that I immediately discharged him. I had seen enough to convince me that no dependence could be placed on the fidelity of hired domestics; I therefore purchased a young slave named Jowdie for seven dollars, to supply Mahomet’s place. The asses being nearly worn out with our long and fatiguing journey, and wanting at least twenty days to recruit their strength, I thought it better to exchange them for a strong Yariba pony that remained in Zegzeg for so long a time. This pony, with the pack bullock the king had given me, were fully equal to supply the place of the asses. Presented Abbel Crême with an unwrought journal-book, a turban, and a scarlet cloth cap. Both the king and his son were at the wars when we passed through their territories on our way to Kano; and it was in order to gratify their curiosity, I verily believe, that I was so unfortunately stopped on my journey to Funda. Asked and obtained permission of the king to proceed to-morrow.

FROM ZEGZEG TO BADAGRY.

24th.—Left at 6 A.M., and halted at Wauree at 3 P.M., fixing the tent within the walls.

25th.—Arose at the same hour, and entered Fatica at four in the afternoon. The king of Zegzeg had sent a messenger to the chief of this town, desiring him to provide us with an escort to conduct us through a wood which was infested with robbers.

26th.—Rested at Fatica to-day, the chief supplying us with abundance of provisions, &c. Gave him two yards of scarlet silk, a cloth cap of the same colour, two pair of scissors, and a hundred needles.

27th.—Left at eight o’clock in the morning, escorted by eight armed men on horseback and four on foot, passed unmolested through the wood, and pitched our tent near Kazigee, at 7 P.M. Giving the men fifty needles each for their trouble, I ordered them to return to Fatica. We had now left the Houssa country, and entered Guarie.

28th.—Previous to leaving Kazigee, a tax of 600 cowries, or a present was demanded, before we could go on: preferred paying the money; and, travelling till three in the afternoon, halted near Maccondie, a small walled town. Here I fell in with a gaffle of merchants on their way to Coulfo. Purchased a small goat of them for 1800 cowries.

29th.—Left the town at six in the morning, and at twelve at noon fixed our tent outside the walls of the city of Guarie, the king of which sent me a quantity of stewed beef, a calabash of honey, and milk and tuah.

30th.—Unable to cross the river to-day.

31st.—Waited on the king this morning, and gave him three yards of light blue damask, the same quantity of blue and scarlet silk, an unwritten journal-book, and a red cap. To one of the chief men a red cap and a hundred needles. The old king asked the reason of my having been so long on the road from Kano, as merchants had told him I had left a great while ago. I answered I had attempted the route to Funda, it being much nearer to my country than any other. He observed, in reply, that if I wished to go that way then, he would send a messenger with me, and had no doubt of my reaching Funda in safety, the king of that place being his particular friend. I expressed much regret at not being able to embrace his kind offer, telling him my presents were nearly exhausted, and I had nothing good enough to give the king: on this account I felt no inclination to pass through his dominions. The king of Guarie had a eunuch in his service who was born not far from Funda. This man, at the instigation of his sovereign, came to see me, and I had a long conversation with him, in the course of which he stated his native place was Gibboo, on the banks of the Niger, four or five days’ journey from Funda. He was given as a slave to the king of the latter place, who had sent him to his present master. He had gone by water from Gibboo to Funda in eight days, the river running five knots an hour against him. The voyage from Funda to Gibboo might easily be done in three or at most four days. Fell in with a party of merchants in the town to-day, so far on their journey to Coulfo, who begged me to accompany them, observing that the road to that place was rendered dangerous by banditti, who had lately committed many excesses. Fearing there might be some truth in these reports, I waited for them three days; but not having then paid the accustomed duty, and not seeming to have the least inclination to depart, I preferred risking the dangers of the route to remaining any longer in Guarie.

August 2d.—Paid my respects to the king this evening, who wished me to take a messenger as far as Womba; but declined his generous offer, observing I was not afraid to proceed with my own small party, and would not put him to any trouble or inconvenience.

3d.—At half-past five in the morning left Guarie, and reached Fullindushie at two in the afternoon.

4th.—Heavy rain the whole of the day, which disabled us from taking down the tent.

5th.—Leaving Fullindushie at six in the morning, pitched our tent outside the walled town of Kazzagebubba at four in the afternoon. The chief sent tuah and corn to us; but not being market-day, apologized for having nothing better. A red cap and a pair of scissors made him quite proud.

6th.—Started at the same hour as yesterday, and crossing a large river in a canoe at three in the afternoon, pitched our tent in the midst of about fifty small uninhabited grass huts, erected by a party of merchants, as a temporary abode, some months before. In the night, the mosquitoes were so numerous and troublesome that we were obliged to set fire to the huts to drive them away.

7th.—Took down our tent at six in the morning, and travelling till six in the evening, arrived at Womba, a large town, surrounded by a high wall. The chief sent us fowls, rice, milk, and a bowl of honey, with corn, &c. for the horses. Being in want of money, sent needles to the market to sell, which fetched fifteen cowries each, and brought me in the whole 3,400 cowries. Presented the chief with two yards of scarlet and blue silk, a scarlet cap, and a pair of scissors.

8th.—This day paid my respects to the king, who insisted on sending a messenger with me, declaring the roads to be dangerous and unsafe without a guide.

9th.—At six in the morning left Womba, accompanied by the messenger; and at six in the evening, crossing a large river, halted on the south side, and fixed our tent amidst a number of grass huts, similar to those mentioned on the sixth. In the night burnt them to the ground, in order to destroy the mosquitoes and vermin, which annoyed us exceedingly.

10th.—Started at the same hour as yesterday, and halted in the town of Beari at 2 P.M. Instead of journeying in a south-west direction to Youri, took another road, and kept due south, having been informed that a party of merchants had been plundered, and many of them murdered, on the road I intended taking. The chief sent me a sheep, a Muscovy duck, a quantity of yams, and some beer made from Indian corn. Returned him one yard of scarlet and blue silk, a scarlet cap, and four prints, which much delighted him. As soon as one of the head men was aware of my approach to the king’s residence, he blew a shrill and loud blast through a long brass trumpet, the noise of which brought all the principal male inhabitants to the spot, who entered the hut, and seated themselves in a circle round their sovereign and myself. The chief is a fine looking man, apparently about fifty years of age, with a noble expression of countenance, and a commanding air. The coozie into which I was introduced is the largest I had ever seen in Africa, being not less, I should think, than eighty yards in circumference. A man stood by the side of the chief while I remained, who repeated to him what I had to say, and the answers were returned to me by the same individual: this singular custom is, I believe, peculiar to Beari, as I never observed it in any other town in Africa. The chief asked the usual questions about my king and country. The town is surrounded by a high wall and a deep ditch, and contains about four thousand inhabitants, some of whom had seen us before at Womba.

11th.—At six in the morning continued our journey, and arrived at Ragada at two in the afternoon. Remained outside the walls, in order that the horses might feed on the rich grass which grew in abundance on the spot. The chief wished me to lodge with him in the town; but, for the reason above stated, did not accept his invitation. The walls of the town are about three miles in circumference.

12th.—In passing through the town this morning, at 6 A.M., waited on the chief, who was delighted to see me, and gave me a sheep, some fowls, and a jar of gear (a beer made from Indian corn), and offered me a messenger, which I declined. Journeyed onwards without halting, till we pitched our tent a little to the west of Wittesa, at three in the afternoon. It began to rain about an hour after leaving Ragada, and continued with great violence till after sunset. Although the portmanteaus were defended by a thick bullock’s hide, every thing in them, with the exception of the papers, became completely soaked. Here I met with a party of merchants going to Koulfa.

13th.—Remained here to-day to dry our tent, clothes, &c. Boussa Jack, the horse which was presented to my late master by the king of Boussa, became dangerously ill. I bled him profusely, and in the evening he was much revived. Sold an unwritten journal-book and a few needles for 2000 cowries.

A man from the town in a state of intoxication came to my tent this evening, with a calabash of bum, and insisted, in an insolent tone, that I should come out and drink with him. Being busily engaged in packing up the articles that had been put out to dry, I did not choose to oblige him so far. When he found I had no inclination to leave the tent, he said he was determined to come in. Wishing to intimidate the fellow, I took a loaded pistol, and went to him, threatening to shoot him unless he immediately left the place; but this, instead of having the desired effect, only exasperated him the more; and flourishing a long spear he had with him over his head, as quick as lightning he made a desperate thrust at me. Slipping a little on one side, I caught the weapon in my hands, within an inch of my breast, which saved my life. I was highly incensed at this violent act, and told the people who stood by, and were spectators of the whole affair, that if they did not that moment take him from the tent, I would shoot him in earnest: half a dozen of them accordingly dragged him away. Next morning the fellow returned, and throwing himself at my feet, begged I would not inform Sultan Magie of his conduct; for if it came to his ears he would lose his head. I forgave him, on condition that he should never get tipsy again.

14th.—Struck our tent at six in the morning, and passing through the ruins of a large town called Kabojie at twelve at noon, reached Dogo at three in the afternoon; but stopping only to pay the accustomed duty, halted a little to the westward of it. In the evening several respectable females of the town came to the tent, with tuah and stewed beef, for which I gave them a few beads.

15th.—At seven in the morning proceeded on our route, and arrived at Coulfo at two in the afternoon. I was met at the gates by the female in whose house we lodged on our way to Kano, accompanied by the most respectable of her sex in the town. They expressed the most lively joy at seeing me; but when I told them that my father was dead, they were deeply affected, and made loud lamentations. Although the town was full of merchants, and her own house occupied with some of them, this kind old woman turned out her lodgers, and gave me the best apartment in it. These merchants came from Cuttum Kora, Youri, Kano, Soccatoo, Borgou, and Yariba, to purchase Nyffé cloth, which is the best in central Africa, iron bits and stirrups, brass ornaments for saddles and bridles, and brass ear and common rings: this traffic is carried on to a considerable extent. The good old chief sent me fowls, tuah, milk, and bum: my hostess gave me a sheep; and during my stay, this excellent old lady sent me provisions daily.

Remained at Coulfo five days, and finding my Yariba pony, and the bullock the king of Zegzeg had given me, unfit to bear the fatigues of a journey to the sea-coast, exchanged the bullock and an old Turkish jacket for a couple of asses; but could not dispose of the pony, although I offered to sell him for a dollar. The morning before my departure found poor little Boussa Jack dead outside my hut. It was with the utmost reluctance my hostess would part with me; and I left her with a promise of returning in two years. She gave me an order to purchase looking-glasses, &c. for her on my arrival in England, which I was to bring with me; all which I promised to do. Gave her a dollar to make a ring, and half a yard of scarlet damask. I took to the old chief a scarlet cap and one of my late master’s turbans, and begged he would not compel me to visit Sultan Magie at Sanson, as I had nothing to give him. He replied, if I did not wish to visit the sultan, to leave as soon as possible, or he might send messengers for me. Sold 5000 cowries worth of needles to assist me on my journey.

20th.—Having paid my respects to the king last evening, left Coulfo, in high spirits and good health, at six in the morning, and halted outside Makonja at five in the afternoon. Here I found a party of merchants going to Gonja, near Ashantee, for gora nuts. Unable to procure any kind of provisions in the town, I took my gun and shot a heron; not being aware that this, being a fetish bird, is allowed to be eaten only by the chiefs. On being made acquainted with the circumstance, one of the principal inhabitants came with a loaded gun, and threatened to shoot me, making use of the most abusive language. I dared him to fire, and said I should complain to Sultan Magie of his conduct.

21st.—Early this morning, the person who had threatened to shoot me yesterday came to beg my pardon, excusing his conduct on the plea of being intoxicated with drinking too much bum. At six in the morning continued our route, and at twelve at noon halted at Dalho, on the banks of the river Quontakora. At 3 P.M. every thing was safely landed on the opposite side; and journeying till sunset, reached the foot of a hill five miles to the east of the Niger, and rested there for the night. The country traversed to-day was one continued swamp, the mud and water frequently reaching up to the asses’ side. Rained continually throughout the day.

22d.—At nine in the morning left the hill, and at eleven at noon came to the river Niger, which was full one hundred yards wider than we found it on our way to Soccatoo. After waiting an hour, a canoe came to fetch us; but we did not get over till two in the afternoon, the horses, &c. being obliged, by reason of the rapidity of the current, to be ferried across in the canoe. My poor slave Jowdie, never having in all his life seen so large a body of water before, became greatly agitated, and was afraid to cross. Getting him at length, after much persuasion, into the canoe, he reached the other side, but fainted the moment he put his foot on terra firma. We landed at Inguazhilligee, where the principal inhabitants pressed us to remain; but having no presents to offer, declined stopping. Expecting to reach a village in the evening, made all possible haste to get out of the town; but at six o’clock, P.M. the asses being quite spent, were obliged to fix our tent on a marshy spot in the midst of a bush. The roads were horribly bad, through swampy ground, and could only travel two miles an hour. This evening, as well as the two former ones, went to rest without food.

23rd.—At six in the morning, proceeding on similar roads, and having heavy rain, reached a small village at one, and were obliged to remain there for the day to give the asses a little rest. The poor animals had stuck in bogs seven times in the morning, each of which times the loads were taken from their backs, and they themselves dragged with much difficulty and loss of time out of their unpleasant situation. None of the poor inhabitants of the village understanding the Houssa language, I entered a hut, the door of which was open, and giving the inmates a few beads, made signs with my hands that we stood in need of provisions and rest. One small lean fowl, however, was all that could be procured from them; but having the good fortune to shoot a guinea-fowl, made a tolerable meal, and slept soundly.

24th.—At seven in the morning left the village, and journeying till 3 P.M., halted at the pleasant town of Wowow, one of the handsomest, if not the handsomest, in the interior of Africa. It had taken us two days and a half on the road from Inguazhilligee, while in the dry season we did it with ease in one.

25th.—Took the old king a present, consisting of four yards of scarlet and four yards of blue damask, four yards of scarlet silk, a cap of the same colour, and a white turban. Though overjoyed to see me at first, he was much distressed on mentioning the death of Captain Clapperton at Soccatoo. He wondered at my being alive, after visiting the Fellata country, the inhabitants of which he described as the most barbarous in the world; said my preservation was miraculous, and that I was certainly one of God’s favourites. I was obliged to comply with his request, which was tantamount to a command, to remain with him a few days to clean seven muskets and three pistols, which he afterwards told me belonged to the white men who were drowned at Boussa. They have the Tower mark on them.

26th.—Solicited and obtained permission to visit Boussa, to pay my respects to its king.

27th.—At five in the morning, accompanied by Pascoe, proceeded on the road to Boussa; but, after journeying till six in the evening, had only got half way. The country is full of bogs and swamps, which in some places took the horses up to their saddles in mud and wet; and Pascoe being the worst rider I ever saw, was soused in them more than a hundred times. The remaining part of the road appearing still more difficult and dangerous, found it impossible to proceed any further.

28th.—Returned to Wowow.

29th.—The king sent me a goat, cut up into small pieces, and a large bowl of tuah, to make a _sadacco_ for my poor master; a ceremony common in many places in the interior, on the decease of any person of consequence. The pieces of goat and the bowl of tuah are sent to the mallam or priest, who repeats a short prayer over them: it is however necessary, before this can be performed, to place a gold or silver coin, or at least an article made of either of those metals, on the top of the bowl. Having no coin I could part with, I put a silver pencil-case in its stead, which was never returned me. After the prayer has been pronounced over the tuah and goat’s flesh, they are sent back to the person to whom they belong; and any one who is disposed comes and eats; each person, before tasting, repeating this pious ejaculation, “God send him safe to heaven!” The goat’s flesh and tuah sent to me were soon consumed.

30th.—Having finished cleaning the muskets and pistols, asked the chief permission to leave Wowow. The old man, smiling, told me not half my business was done; he wanted six charms, which I alone could write. These charms were to be worn on his person, and to possess the following virtues: 1st charm. If his enemies thought of making war on him, it would cause them to forget to put it in practice. 2d. If they should be on their way to his city, for the purpose of warring, it would turn them back. 3d. If they should discharge their arrows at his people, when close to the city walls, it would cause them to rebound in their own faces, and wound them. 4th. It was the province of this charm to prevent his guns from bursting. 5th, was to preserve the person who might hold the gun from receiving any injury, should it unfortunately explode. The 6th and last charm was to make him the happiest and most successful of men.

31st.—Carried the charms to the king, on which I had written scraps of old English ballads, which made him in the best humour in the world.

September 1st.—The king still wished to detain me longer, and insisted on my selling or giving him my gun and pistols, the only arms I had left. I endeavoured to soften him by every means in my power; but finding him firm in his determination of having the gun, and at least one of the pistols, and knowing resistance would be ridiculous, I sent them to him, leaving it entirely to his generosity to give what he thought proper. The liberal-minded chief shortly afterwards returned 4,000 cowries (worth little more than a dollar), as a sufficient remuneration for the gun and pistol, but made me a present the next day of a beautiful little mare.

3d.—Early in the morning the old chief desired to see me before I left, and obtained from me a promise to return to him after having visited my own country. He showed me various patterns of silk for a tobe I was to bring from England for him; and said, as I was going out of the apartment, “Your countrymen may come here, and build a town, and trade up and down the Niger: we know now that they are good men, but we did not think so when the white men who were drowned at Boussa were in the country.” He kept me with him till nine o’clock in the morning, when, on going to my hut, I found a party of merchants waiting for me, whom the kind old chief had detained on purpose that they might accompany me to Khiama (which had been concealed from me entirely), the roads to that city being infested with bands of robbers. Crossed the river Auli at twelve at noon. The current being very rapid, we had extreme difficulty in getting over; but no accident occurred, and we fixed our tent on the south bank of the river. In the evening the mallam, or priest of the merchants, came to my tent, and gave me the following account of Mungo Park and his unfortunate companions:

“You are not, Christian, the first white man I have seen. I knew three of your countrymen very well. They arrived at Youri at the fast of the Rhamadan (April). I went with two of them three times to the sultan. The person that appeared to be the head of the party made the sultan a valuable present on one of his visits, which consisted of a handsome gun, a cutlass, a large piece of scarlet cloth, a great quantity of beads, several knives, and a looking-glass. He was a very tall and powerful man, with long arms and large hands, on which he wore leather gloves reaching above the elbows. Wore a white straw hat, long coat, full white trousers, and red leather boots. Had black hair and eyes, with a bushy beard and mustachios of the same colour. The sultan of Youri advised your countrymen to proceed the remainder of the way on land, as the passage by water was rendered dangerous by numerous sunken rocks in the Niger, and a cruel race of people inhabiting the towns on its banks. They refused, however, to accede to this, observing that they were bound to proceed down the Niger to the Salt Water.” The old mallam further observed that, “as soon as the sultan of Youri heard of their death, he was much affected; but it was out of his power to punish the people who had driven them into the water. A pestilence reaching Boussa at the time, swept off the king and most of the inhabitants, particularly those who were concerned in the transaction. The remainder, fancying it was a judgment of the white man’s God, placed every thing belonging to the Christians in a hut, and set it on fire.” It is not a little remarkable that it is now a common saying, all through the interior of Africa, “Do not hurt a Christian, for if you do, you will die like the people of Boussa.” The old man left me shortly afterwards; and I thanked him for his information thus voluntarily given.

4th.—At nine in the morning left the bank of the river, and at two in the afternoon fixed our tent in a bush. Proceeded this day by ourselves, the merchants not being ready to start in time. Notwithstanding the account the king of Wowow had given me of the dangers of the road, we were not molested in our journey.

5th.—At six in the morning were again in motion, and halted at four in the afternoon in a small town called Gorkie. This day one of the asses was taken suddenly ill on the road, and it was with the utmost difficulty we could drag him to the halting place. The chief of the town, at the instigation of the king of Wowow, supplied us abundantly with fowls, rice, yams, &c. Gave him a pair of scissors and a few needles.