Chapter I: Front Matter

MAROCCO
AND
THE GREAT ATLAS

PANORAMA OF THE GREAT ATLAS FROM THE CITY OF MAROCCO]

_JOURNAL OF_
A TOUR IN MAROCCO
AND
THE GREAT ATLAS

BY
JOSEPH DALTON HOOKER, K.C.S.I., C.B.
PRES. R. S.
DIRECTOR OF THE ROYAL GARDENS, KEW; ETC.
AND
JOHN BALL, F.R.S., M.R.I.A.
ETC.

_WITH AN APPENDIX_
_including_
_A SKETCH of the GEOLOGY of MAROCCO, by GEORGE MAW, F.L.S., F.G.S._

London
MACMILLAN AND CO.
1878

_All rights reserved_

_PREFACE._

The expedition of which an account is given in the following pages was undertaken in the year 1871, and it was originally intended that a narrative of the proceedings should be given to the public soon after our return to England. Sir Joseph D. Hooker, who made careful notes throughout the journey, hoped to complete the work without much delay, and actually wrote the greater part of the first two chapters; but the constant demands upon his time arising from his official duties at Kew, and the important botanical works to which he is a chief contributor, further increased by his election, in 1873, to the Presidency of the Royal Society, so far interfered with the completion of the original design as to compel him to request his fellow-traveller, Mr. Ball, to undertake the completion of the work. The latter was at the time engaged in preparing for publication a memoir on the Flora of Marocco, which has since appeared in the Journal of the Linnæan Society, wherein the botanical collections made during the journey are enumerated and described; and his performance of the task allotted to him has been further delayed by several prolonged absences from England.

As regards many countries visited by travellers a delay of several years in publication might seriously affect the accuracy of a narrative intended to represent the existing condition of the country and its inhabitants; but in the case of Marocco, where, from a comparison with the accounts of early travellers, no notable change is apparent during the last two centuries, the effect of a few years’ interval may be considered insensible. Up to the date of our visit the Great Atlas was little better known to geographers than it was in the time of Strabo and Pliny; and it may be hoped that whatever interest belongs to our journey is as great now as it was at the moment of our return.

The narrative now published is mainly founded on the journals kept by Sir J. Hooker and Mr. Ball, supplemented in some particulars by that of our fellow-traveller, Mr. G. Maw. To the latter we owe a sketch of the Geology of Marocco, which appears in the Appendix. Along with this we have published some interesting contributions received from Mr. H. B. Brady and Mr. Freeman Bogers, as well as some papers upon various matters connected with the physical geography and the flora of Marocco.

It is impossible to present these pages to the public without repeating the expression of our obligations to some of those to whose assistance we largely owe whatever success we were able to attain. Foremost amongst these we must name H. E. Sir John Drummond Hay, K.C.B., British Minister Plenipotentiary in Marocco. From the moment when, in compliance with the request of Sir J. Hooker, Lord Granville, then Foreign Secretary, instructed our Minister to apply for the permission of the Sultan to visit the Great Atlas, Sir J. D. Hay, by his extensive knowledge of the country and the people, and by his great personal influence, afforded invaluable assistance to the expedition.

We were also much indebted for assistance and hospitality to the British Consular agents on the Marocco coast, and especially to the late Mr. Carstensen, then Vice-Consul at Mogador. We should not omit our acknowledgments of the courtesy and valuable information received from the late M. Beaumier, French Consul at the same port.

We trust that in the course of the following pages we have not omitted to express our thanks to other friends who have kindly contributed valuable information. The scope of this volume being mainly to give an account of our personal experience and observations, we have used, but sparingly, other materials, which might be in place if we had aimed at the production of a work of a more elaborate character.

_CONTENTS._

CHAPTER I.
PAGE
Voyage to Gibraltar — View of Tangier — Interior of the town —
Portuguese and English occupation — Hospitable reception by
Sir John Drummond Hay — Ravensrock — Government of Marocco —
Climate of North Marocco — Exceptional season — The Djebel
Kebir and its vegetation — Cistus and Heath region — Cape
Spartel — Night at the Lighthouse — Cave of Hercules — Arab
village — Return to Tangier 1

CHAPTER II.

Start for Tetuan — Vegetation of the low country — Serpent
charmers — Twilight in the forest — The Fondak — Stormy
night on the roof — Breakfast on the hill — Riff Mountains
— A Governor in chains — Fate of high officials in Marocco
— Valley of Tetuan — Jew quarter of the city — Ascent of
the Beni Hosmar — Vegetation of the mountain — A quiet day
— Jewish population — Ride to Ceuta — Spanish campaign in
Marocco — Fortifications of Ceuta — Return to European
civilisation — Spanish convict stations in Africa 25

CHAPTER III.

Sail to Algeciras — Vegetation of the neighbouring hills
— Comparison between the opposite sides of the Strait of
Gibraltar — Return to Tangier — Troubles of a botanist — Fez
pottery — Voyage in French steamer — Rabat and Sallee — Land
at Casa Blanca — Vegetation of the neighbourhood — Humidity of
the coast climate — Mazagan — View of Saffi 58

CHAPTER IV.

Arrival at Mogador — The Sultan’s letter — Preparations for
our journey — The town of Mogador — The neighbouring country
— Ravages of locusts — Native races of South Marocco —
Excursion to the island — Climate of Mogador — Its influence
on consumption — Dinner with the Governor 75

CHAPTER V.

Departure from Mogador — Argan forest — Hilly country of Haha
— Fertile province of Shedma — Hospitality of the Governor
— Turkish visitor — Offering of provisions — Kasbah of the
Governor — Ride to Aïn Oumast — First view of the Great Atlas
— Pseudo-Sahara — Tomb of a saint — Nzelas — Ascend the
‘Camel’s Back’ — Oasis of Sheshaoua — Coolness of the night
temperature — Rarity of ancient buildings — Halt at Aïn Beida
— Tents and luggage gone astray — Night at Misra ben Kara —
Cross the Oued Nfys — Plain of Marocco — Range of the Great
Atlas — Halt under tamarisk tree 95

CHAPTER VI.

Approach to the city of Marocco — Pleasant encounter — Halt
in an olive garden — Interior of the city — Difficulty as to
lodging — Governor unfriendly — Camp in the great square —
Negotiations with the Viceroy — Successful result — Palace of
Ben Dreis — Diplomatic difficulties — Gardens of Marocco —
Interview with El Graoui 125

CHAPTER VII.

Choice of a route in the Atlas — Difficulty of procuring
information — Hills near the city — Panorama of the Great
Atlas — Probable height of the range — Wild birds of Marocco
— Condition of the Jews — Departure from the city — Farewell
interview with El Graoui — District of Mesfioua — Interview
with the Kaïd — Approach to the Great Atlas — Aspect of the
vegetation — Castle of Tasseremout — Washington’s visit —
Jewish suppliants — Great boulder mounds — Ourika valley —
Peculiarities of Moorish character — Rapacity of our escort 149

CHAPTER VIII.

Vegetation of Ourika valley — Destruction of the native trees
— Our progress checked — Enforced return — Shelluh village
— Ride from Ourika to Reraya — Trouble with our escort — A
friendly Shelluh sheik — Native desire for medical advice —
Characteristics of the Shelluhs — Zaouia of Moulaï Ibrahim —
Camp in Aït Mesan valley — Excursion to the head of the valley
— Reach the snow — Night travelling in the Atlas 175

CHAPTER IX.

The Shelluh sheik bribed — Arrangements for stopping at Arround
— Medical practice among the Shelluhs — Arabic correspondence
— Unexpected difficulty — Strange fancies of the natives —
Threatening weather — Our house at Arround — Gloomy morning —
Saint’s tomb — Escape from our guides — Strange encounter —
Snow-storm — Tagherot pass — Descent to Arround — Continuance
of bad weather — Sacrifice of a sheep — Shelluh mountaineers
— Fauna of the Great Atlas — Return to Hasni — Deplorable
condition of our camp 207

CHAPTER X.

Departure from Hasni — Plateau of Sektana — Grand view of
the Great Atlas — Departure of Maw — Village of Gurgouri
— Intrigues of Kaïd el Hasbi — Passage of the Oued Nfys —
Arrival at Amsmiz — Friendly Governor — Difficulties as to
further progress — Position of Amsmiz — Sleeping quarters
in the Kasbah — Fanatical sheik — Shelluh market — View of
the Amsmiz valley — Village of Iminteli — Friendly Jews —
Geological structure and vegetation of the valley — Sheik’s
opposition overcome — Ascent of Djebel Tezah — The guide left
behind — View from the summit — Anti-Atlas seen at last —
Deserted dwellings on the peak — Ancient oak forest — Rapid
descent — Night ride to Iminteli 239

CHAPTER XI.

Return to Amsmiz — Arround villagers in trouble — Pains and
pleasures of a botanist — Ride across the plain — Mzouda —
Experiences of a Governor in Marocco — Hospitable chief of
Keira — A village in excitement — Arrival at Seksaoua — Fresh
difficulties as to our route — A faithful black soldier — Rock
vegetation at Seksaoua — Ascent of a neighbouring mountain —
View of the Great Atlas — Absence of perpetual snow — Return
of our envoy from Mtouga — Pass leading to Tarudant — Native
names for the mountains — Milhaïn — Botanising in the rocks 271

CHAPTER XII.

Departure from Milhaïn — Defile of Aïn Tarsil — Dwellings
of the troglodytes — Arrival at Mtouga — Gloomy evening —
Governor’s return from the fight — Prisoners of war — Their
fate — Ride to Mskala — A venerable Moor — Return to the
Kasbah of Shedma — Poisoned guests — Ride to Aïn el-Hadjar —
The Iron mountain — Ancient mining work — Eccentric soldier —
Ascent of Djebel Hadid — Ruins of Akermout — Ride to Mogador
— A Kasbah in ruins — Powder-play on the beach — Return to
Mogador 299

CHAPTER XIII.

Second stay at Mogador — Plants obtained through native
collectors — Outrage committed by the Haha people — Story of
the troubles in Haha — Farewell presents to our servants and
escort — An unpunctual tradesman corrected — Exports from
Mogador — Caravans from Timbuktou — Jewish wedding — Voyage in
the _Lady Havelock_ — Land at Saffi — Excursion ashore — Land
at Mazagan — Return to Tangier, and thence to England 326

CHAPTER XIV.

Resources of Marocco — Moorish government a hopeless failure
— Future prospects of Marocco — Objections to European
interference — Answers to such objections 348

_APPENDICES._

APPENDIX A.
PAGE
Observations for determining Altitudes of Stations in Marocco. 357
_By_ JOHN BALL

APPENDIX B.
Itineraries of Routes from the City of Marocco through the
Great Atlas. _By_ SALOMON BEN DAOUD 366

APPENDIX C.
Notes on the Geography of South Marocco. _By_ JOHN BALL 371

APPENDIX D.
On some Economic Plants of Marocco. _By_ JOSEPH DALTON HOOKER 386

APPENDIX E.
A Comparison between the Flora of the Canary Islands and that
of Marocco. _By_ JOSEPH DALTON HOOKER 404

APPENDIX F.
A Comparison between the Mountain Flora of Tropical Africa and
that of Marocco. _By_ JOSEPH DALTON HOOKER 421

APPENDIX G.
On the Mountain Flora of two Valleys of the Great Atlas. _By_
JOHN BALL 423

APPENDIX H.
Notes on the Geology of the Plain of Marocco and the Great
Atlas. _By_ GEORGE MAW, F.G.S., F.L.S., &c. 444

APPENDIX I.
Moorish Stories and Fables 468

APPENDIX K.
On the Shelluh Language. _By_ JOHN BALL 478