Chapter XXVIII: Appendix: L

_Notes on the Roman Remains known to the Moors as the Castle of
Pharaoh, near Mouley Edris el Kebir._

Communicated by Messrs. W. H. RICHARDSON and H. B. BRADY, F.R.S.

Learning that a party of English travellers had visited these ruins in the spring of 1878, and believing that they had not been seen by any European traveller since Jackson visited the place early in the present century, we were anxious for information respecting them; and in reply to our request we received an account of their visit kindly drawn up by Messrs. W. H. Richardson and H. B. Brady, F.R.S. We have also been favoured with the loan of a sketch executed by Mr. G. T. Biddulph, who formed one of the same party, from which the vignette given p. 487 is taken.

After the notes were in the hands of the printer the appearance in the ‘Academy,’ No. 32, p. 581, of a very full account of the ruins by Dr. Leared, already well known as a successful Marocco traveller, informed us that the ruins had been visited by him in 1877, in company with the members of the Portuguese mission to the Sultan, and about the same time by some members of the German Diplomatic Mission. Dr. Leared has fully succeeded in establishing the identity of the so-called Castle, or Palace, of Pharaoh with the Roman town of Volubilis, and has left little to be said on that point. Nevertheless the ruins are interesting enough to make the additional notes of other travellers useful and valuable; and we have therefore availed ourselves of the greater part of the paper kindly sent to us by Messrs. Richardson and Brady.

‘One of the points we had determined to visit on our tour was the ruin known by the Moors as “Pharaoh’s Palace,” or “Pharaoh’s Tomb.” The time of our journey was in some respects unfortunate for visiting places held in veneration by the natives; we were, in fact, staying in Fez at the time of Mohammed’s birthday, when religious fanaticism exhibits itself, not merely in holidays and powder-play, alternating with devotional exercises, but in processions to the shrines of saints, and in sundry manifestations of ill-will to unbelievers. We had considerable difficulty in obtaining intelligible information as to the exact site of the ruins. Our idea had been that they ought to have been accessible from the road between Alcazar and Fez, striking off near Sidi Guiddar. The interpreter and the mounted soldiers who were with us, overruled this when it was proposed, and we therefore continued our journey. They were probably right; but in our various conversations with them on the subject they managed to convey the impression that either they did not themselves know the precise locality, or that they did not intend that we should visit the place.

‘During our stay in Fez we were joined by two Englishmen, Messrs. G. T. Biddulph, and F. A. O’Brien, whose acquaintance we had made in Tangier, and we proceeded to Mekinez in company. Mekinez is a sort of Mecca to the Aissowies—the most fanatical of all the sects of western Mohammedans—and the road was thronged with devotees returning from their annual pilgrimage to the city of Mohammed-ben-Aissa, their prophet. We were kindly received by the Lieutenant Bashaw (Kaïd Hamo), who seemed desirous to forward our views in every way in his power. He thought it necessary on our departure to provide us with a soldier who knew the district thoroughly, so that altogether we had a guard of four regular soldiers. Thus furnished, the tone of our interpreter changed, and we had no more obstacles thrown in our way.

‘We proposed to make the Roman station the first stage on our road from Mekinez to Rabat. Whether it would have been better to have taken it, as we had originally intended, on the way to Fez, or subsequently, between Fez and Mequinez, it is needless now to inquire; it certainly is a good deal out of the direct route between Mekinez and Rabat, if maps are to be trusted. However, we got on the way on March 23 a little after 10 A.M. The site of the ruin is some fifteen miles north-west of Mekinez, at no great distance from Mouley Edris el Kebir; both are on the southern slopes of one of the ranges that constitute the Lesser Atlas. There was little of interest by the way. Part of the road was on the horizon of a bed of white, friable, microzoic, tertiary limestone, which forms a conspicuous feature in the mountain strata of this district. This is traceable for a great distance, and its exposure at one or two points in the heights to the far east, we had at first mistaken

for snow. After about four hours’ riding we had to diverge from the main road; and here we learned that it would be necessary to encamp at some distance to the south-west, in the last _douar_ within the government of Mekinez. The hill-country, it was said, was so infested by a lawless set of Berebers that we should not be safe out of the jurisdiction of the Bashaw. Before the evening was out we had reason to know that these fears were not entirely groundless. Leaving our servants with the luggage, therefore, we took two soldiers and rode across country to the object of our journey.

‘The ruins stand on a little hill, a mile or more from the road. At the base of the hill runs a bright little mountain stream. The ground for many acres is strewed and heaped with squared stones, the débris of ancient buildings; lines of wall-foundations appear in every direction, and pillar bases in rows or squares, arranged as though for the support of colonnades surrounding courts or _patios_. The demolition is no doubt largely due to spoliation, but it is also partly the result of the unstable character of the mortar, which has to a great extent weathered out from between the stones. In some of the walls still standing the stones appear to retain their places by their own weight rather than by the help of any cement that is left to hold them together. Two perfect Roman arches still remain, and one or two nearly complete, but even these look as though they might not long withstand the mountain winds.’[1]

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‘In the present condition of the place it is impossible even to guess what was the original ground-plan of the buildings. The principal frontage appears to have had the west aspect, and there is still the remnant of a sort of façade. Amongst the fallen stones of this front is part of an entablature which has borne an inscription in four lines. We could only find one stone of it; and this bore the following letters, about eight inches in height. There were the shafts of many marble columns amongst the fallen stones, and not a few capitals, some simple, others more or less carved with volutes, Ionic fashion, and one at least with the remnant of acanthus leaves, as though derived from a Corinthian building. Some of the mouldings had the common egg and arrow ornament, and there was a portion of a narrow frieze on the western side with one of the common frets of classic architecture formed of a double series of interlacing

curved lines; but beyond these there was but little decorative sculpture. There is clearly a basement storey of very large stones lying underneath the present ground level. Here and there the subsidence of the ground, or the falling in of the masonry, reveals passages and what appear to be small rooms or vaults, with solid, well constructed walls. In the short hour that circumstances permitted us to linger, it was impossible to do more than observe things as they stood. The mere removal of the loose stones would do a good deal, and a very little excavation would do much more, to indicate the history of the original structures, and we have little doubt that many inscribed stones might still be found that would help materially to the same end. On the north side of the western arch and façade is a sort of enclosure formed of loose stones piled together as a rude wall, and whitewashed. This wall has been reared by pilgrims, each of whom has carried and placed a stone, according to their custom, at what they regard as a “saint’s place.”’

Up to the year 1877 no traveller appears to have visited the ruins since Jackson, who twice refers to them in his ‘Account of the Empire of Marocco.’ In a note to p. 21 (3rd Edition, 1814) he says: ‘The father of the Sultan Sulieman built a magnificent palace on the banks of the river of Tafilelt, which bounds his dominions on the eastward; the pillars are of marble, and many of them were transported across the Atlas, having been collected from the (Ukser Farawan) Ruins of Pharaoh near the sanctuary of Muly Dris Zerone, west of Atlas.’ In another place (p. 146) he says: ‘When I visited these ruins in my journey from the sanctuary of Muly Dris Zerone, near to which they are situated, in the plain below, the jealousy of the (Stata) protecting guide sent by the Fakeers to see me safe to the confines of their district was excited, and he endeavoured to deter me from making any observations by insinuating that the place was the haunt of large and venomous serpents, scorpions, &c. A good number of cauldrons and kettles filled with gold and silver coins have been excavated from these ruins.’

FOOTNOTES:

[Footnote 1: The vignette is taken from a sketch by G. T. Biddulph, Esq.]

BY JOHN BALL, F.R.S]

INDEX.

ABDA, province of, 73
— horses of, 73
Abraham, 79, 156, 209
Acacia gummifera, 99, 337, 393
Achliz, 172, 180, 181
Adenocarpus anagyrifolius, 175, 197
Adjersiman, 199, 203
Adonis, crimson, 16
Africa, tropical, mountain flora of, Appendix, 421
Agadir, 80, 374, 382
— plants from, 327
Agave americana, 10, 28
Aïn Beïda, halt at, 117
Aïn El Hadjar, 317
Aïn Oumast, 107, 108
Aïn Tarsil, defile of, 300
— rock dwellings at, 300
Aït, definition of, 184
Aït Mesan, 190
— camp in, 194, 237
— halt in, 193
— people of, 235
— valley, ascent of, 195
— vegetation of, 210, 424
Aizoon canariense, 161
Akassa, 373, 376
Akermont, plain of, 320
Akka, oasis of, 336
Alaternus, 10, 210
Algeciras, 58
Algerian flora, characteristic species of, 255
Allium nigrum, 27
Almond, 29, 39
Altitudes in Morocco, Appendix, 357
Alyssum montanum, 261
— spinosum, 219
Ambak, or Omback, 98, 195, 334
American aloe, 10, 28
Amsmiz, town of, 246
Amsmiz, governor of, 247
— position of, 249
— return to, 272
— valley, geological structure of, 254
— — head of, 258
— — vegetation of, 255, 424
— — view of, 252
Anagyris fœtida, 101
Ancient buildings, rarity of, 116
Ancient town, remains of, 116
Andrachne maroccana, 297
Andropogon laniger, 153
Andryala mogadorensis, 87, 340
Angera mountains, 5, 45
Anti-Atlas, 262
Antirrhinum ramosissimum, 245
Ape’s Hill, 5, 37, 45
Apteranthes gussoniana, 87
Aquilegia vulgaris, 268
Arab village, 24
Arabis pubescens, 48
Arar, 99, 389
Argan tree, 96, 311, 395
Arisarum vulgare, 342
Arround, 199, 214, 226
— our house at, 215
— villagers in trouble, 272
Artemisia Herba alba, 107, 117, 124
Arthrocnemum fruticosum, 114
Artichoke, wild, 322
Asfi, or Saffi, 73
Ash, southern species, 29, 210
Asperula hirsuta, 172
Asphodels, 17
Asphodelus cerasiferus, 28
— tenuifolius, 98
Asplenium Hemionitis, 20
— marinum, 23
— Petrarchæ, 295
Assghin, 180
Asteriscus imbricatus, 87
Atlantic rollers, 66
Atlas, Great, central range of, 200
— approach to, 161
— aspect of, 200
— elevation of chain, 227
— fauna of, 233
— first view of, 106, 108
— geology of, Appendix, 457
— height of, 121, 155, 227, 242, 263, 265
— hill forts of, 166, 241, 293, 297
— last view of, 321
— mountain flora of, 202, 230, Appendix, 423
— mountain tribes of, 184, 187, 233
— outer rampart of, 159
— outer ranges, vegetation of, 189
— panorama of, 154
— sterile aspect of Western, 296
— summit ridge of, 223
— topography of, Appendix, 385
— trees and shrubs of middle region, 177, 209, 251
— trees of upper region, 218, 267, 268
— view of, from Sektana, 242
Atlas, Lesser, 35
Atractylis macrophylla, 194, 302
Atriplex Halimus, 114
Aurora Borealis, 14
Avena barbata, 109
Azemour, 72, 120

BAD ROUB, gate, 137
Balansa, M., 82, 191, 280, 300
Barberry, 267
Barley, 197, 200, 216
Beaudouin’s map, 151, 276, 303, 384
Beaumier, M., 87, 129, 154
Bedis, Belis, 57
Bee eater, 30
Bellis annua, 17
Ben Daoud, Governor of Morocco, 126, 136
Ben Dreis, palace of, 137
Beni, definition of, 184
Beni Hassan, 9, 37
Beni Hosmar, 37
— ascent of, 41
— vegetation of, 41-47
Berberis cretica, 268
Bereber, or Riffian families, 46
Berebers, 84, 85
— their language, Appendix, 478
Blanco, Cape, 73
Boissier’s ‘Voyage en Espagne,’ 62
Boucerosia Maroccana, 87
Boulder deposits of the Atlas, 170, 458
Brady, Mr. H. B., Appendix, 485
Brass workers, 335
Brassica geniculata, 145
— a new species of, 285
Broom-rape, 118
Broussonet, M., 82, 164
Bulbo, 25, 33
Bupleurum canescens, 315
— spinosum, 219

CABO NEGRO, 51
Caillé, his journey from Timbuktou, 336
Calendula suffruticosa, 16
Callitris quadrivalvis, 99, 177, 323, 389
Calluna vulgaris, 18
Calycotome villosa, 42
— spinosa, 42
Camel’s back, ascent of, 111
Campanula dichotoma, 100
Canals for irrigation, 124
Canarians, of Pliny, 375, 377
Canary Islands, flora of, Appendix, 404
Cantin, Cape, 73
Capparis ægyptica, 243
Carex divisa, 115
Carob trees, 10, 29, 31. _See_ Ceratonia
Caroxylon articulatum, 114
Carstensen, Mr., 75
— meeting with, at Shedma, 311
Carum mauritanicum, 98
Casa Blanca, 67, 68, 69, 344
Castle of Pharaoh, Appendix, 485
Catananche cærulea, 189
Cedar, Atlantic, 46
Celastrus europæus, 177
— senegalensis, 177
Centaurea Clementei, 44
— incana, 308
— maroccana, 109
Cerastes, or el efah, 319, 340
Ceratocnemum rapistroides, 161
Ceratonia Siliqua, 169, 178, 183, 193
Ceratophyllum, 337
Ceuta, 7, 45, 54
Chalcedony, 112
Chamærops humilis, 17, 28, 101, 165
Charlock, 114
Cheiranthus semperflorens, 95
Chrysanthemum Catananche, 232
— coronarium, 26
Cistus ladaniferus, 18
— monspeliensis, 165, 322
— polymorphus, 165
— species of, 321
Citrus wood of the Romans, 390
Cladanthus arabicus, 107
Clematis cirrhosa, 28, 176
— flammula, 176
Cleonia lusitanica, 165
Coast climate, humidity of, 70, 92
Cock, sacrifice of, 223
Convolvulus sylvatica, 41
Coronilla ramosissima, 189
— viminalis, 164
Coronopus Ruellii, 123
Cosson, M., 3, 327
Costume, travelling, 78
Cotyledon hispanica, 113
Cuckoo, 32
Cucumis Colocynthis, 113
Cynara acaulis, 291
— eatable roots of, 292
— humilis, 28
— hystryx, 192
Cytisus albidus, 101
— tridentatus, 19

DAISY, blue, 17, 198
Dandelion, 114
Dar el Beïda, 67
Daucus maximus, 307
Davallia canariensis, 20
Demenet, province, 147, 152, 367, 394
Diet, bad effects of, 287
Diorite, 222
Diotis maritima, 23
Diplomatic conversation, 146
Djebel Aoulouse, 262
— Hadid, 313, 321
— — iron mines of, 317
— Kebir, 5, 9, 10, 17
— — vegetation of, 10
— Tezah, 252
— — ascent of, 259, 261
Djinns, or demons, 223
Douar, or native village, 24, 116
Douar Arifi, 96
Douerani, 280
— hospitable chief of, 281
Drosophyllum lusitanicum, 19, 22, 48
Dupuis, M., 67
Dust columns, 122
Dyris, ancient name of Atlas, 295, 375

EBENUS pinnata, 107
Echinoderms, fossil, 340, 451, 452
Echinops strigosus, 153
Echinospermum barbatum, 192
Echium modestum, 109
El efah, 340
El Fondak, 32
El Ghoreb, 82
El Graoui, governor of Great Atlas, 76, 125, 136
— house of, 146
— interview with, 126, 145
— parting with, 153
— present to, 148
El Hadj Hamara, 75, 471
El Penon de Velez, 56
Elæoselinum exinvolucratum, 286
— new species of, 107
Elder trees, 197
Ephedra altissima, 164
Erica, species of, 18
Erodium atlanticum, 289
— petræum, 45
Eryngo, 26
Escort, rapacity of, 174, 212
— trouble with, 182
Euphorbia Beaumieriana, 337
— pinea, 297
— resinifera, 337, 388
— rimarum, 297
Euphorbium, 163, 328, 388
Europa Point, 62
Evax Heldreichii, 232

Fanaticism, Moorish, 235
Fashook gum, 386
Ferula communis, 68
Fez pottery, 9
Fish, fresh water, 72
Flora of North Marocco, 18
Forests, neglect of, 177, 235
Forskåhlea tenacissima, 153
— Cossoniana, 153
Frankenia revoluta, 112
— velutina, 37, 340
Fraxinus dimorpha, 176
Fraxinus oxyphylla, 29, 210
Fringillaria Saharæ, 156
Fuertaventura, vegetation of, 417
Furbioun, 163, na, 84
Furbioun, 163, 388

GENISTA, species of, 320
— clavata, 28
— monosperma, or R’tam, 95, 124
— triacanthos, 19
Geranium dissectum, 114
Gers, river, 375, 377
Gibraltar, rock of, 60, 347
— voyage to, 1
Glacier, ancient moraine of, 199
Glaucium corniculatum, 100
Goats feeding in trees, 97
Gooseberry, 198, 261
Governor in chains, 37
Grass, esparto, 335
Gum ammoniacum, 386
— arabic, 337, 393
— cistus, 10, 18
— Sandrac, 177
Gurgouri, 243, 244
Guzula, 264
Gypsophila compressa, 107

HAHA, Kasbah of, 309
— Kaïd, cruelty of, 309, 330, 331
— — hospitality of, 309
— people, outrage by, 330
— province of, 99
— — disturbed state of, 298, 329
Hamed, 212, 334
Hand mills, 22
Hank el Gemmel, 111
Hanno, Periplus, 301, 372
Hanoteau, General, his Tamashek’ grammar, 430
Hardman, Mr., 52
Hasni, camp at, 194, 207, 237
— departure from, 239
Hay, Sir J. D., 2, 8, 9, 11, 64
Hedysarum membranaceum, 176
Helianthemum, species of, 322
— lasianthum, 58
— umbellatum, 48
— virgatum, 124
Helix, clusters of, 27
— explanata, 111
— lactea, 111
Hemicrambe fruticulosa, 41
Hercules, cave of, 22, 23
Hercules, straits of, 62
Hills, origin of flat-topped, 112
Hollar, engraving by, 13
Horticulture, Moorish, 105
Hunot, Mr., 127, 138, 338
Hypochæris radicata, 114

IBERIS, gibraltarica, 44
Imintanout, district of, 293
Iminteli, 253, 269
— Jew’s house at, 254
— night ride to, 269
Import duties, Moorish, 53
Indian fig, 27, 169
Information, difficulty of procuring, 149, 275
Instincts, barbarous survival of, 190
Interpreter, 25, 33
Iris germanica, 200
— sysyrhynchium, 17
— tingitana, 63
Iron mountain, 313
Irrigation, native skill in, 196
Isatis, 197

JACKSON’S ‘Account of Marocco, 80, 296, 384, 489
Jewish exports and industries, 49, 50
— festival, 50
— suppliants, 169
Jews’ Clift, 339
Jews, condition of, 157
— friendly, 254
Jordan, Mr., his journey to Sous, 341
Juba, King, 374
Juniperus oxycedrus, 210, 252
— phœnicea, 42, 55, 178, 210, 219
— thurifera, 218

KABYLES, 84, 85
— their language, 478, 479
Kaïd el Hasbi, 157, 173, 185, 245, 248, 334
Kelaart’s Flora Calpensis, 62
Keskossou, 93
Kief, 46
Koubba, 117
Koutoubia, tower of, 131, 142

‘LADY HAVELOCK,’ return on board, 338
Lanzarote, vegetation of, 417
Laraish, 26
Lavandula abrotanoides, 113
— multifida, 113
Leared, Dr., Appendix, 386, 483
Lempriere, Mr., his journey, 383
Lentisk, 10, 31, 42, 68, 210
Leo Africanus, 203, 264, 379, 484
— his account of the Berebers of Djebel Hadid, 318
Leontodon hispidulus, 145
Leopard, anecdote of, 14
Lighthouse of Cape Spartel, 21
Linaria heterophylla, 240
— maroccana, 240
— sagittata, 100
— ventricosa, 101, 197
Lithospermum apulum, 35
— fruticosum, 19
Lixus, river, 301, 372
Lizard, remarkable, 289
Locusts, destroyed, 158, 159
— ravages of, 82
Lonicera etrusca, 210
Lotononis maroccana, 176
Lotus creticus, 23
— marrocanus, 176
— Salzmanni, 23
Lowe, Rev. Mr., 82
Lupin, blue and yellow, 16
Lycopus europæus, 115
Lygeum Sparteum, 192

MACARONESIAN flora, Appendix, 405, 420, 444
Madder, 216
Maize in the Atlas, 200, 216
Malcolmia littorea, 26
— nana, 56
Mamora, forest of, 67
Map, French War Office, 36, 384
Marabout, 9
Marmol, prisoner at Fez, 378
Marocco, city, 125, 133
— — approach to, 125, 126
— — bazaars of, 153
— — behaviour of people of, 129, 145
— — carpets of, 153
— — current coin of, 141
— — difficulty as to lodging in, 129, 130
— — distant view of, 182, 290
— — elevation of, 153
— — gardens of, 143
— — unfriendly Governor of, 127
— — Great Square of, 134
— — interior of, 128, 129
— — map of, 150
— — plain of, 120
— — population of, 342
— — routes from, Appendix, 366
— — serpents of, 156
— — start from, 157
— — vermin of, 131
Marocco, empire, barbarism of, 12, 349
— — climate of, 15, 317, 345, 349
— — economic plants of, Appendix, 386
— — Flora of, compared with tropical African, Appendix, 421
— — geology of, Appendix, 446
— — native races of, 85
— — prisons of, 229, 230
— — prospects of, 350
— — resources of, 348
— — table of altitudes in, 362
— — wild animals of, 14
— — wild birds of, 156
Marocco, South, geography of, Appendix, 371
Marrubium, new species of, 249
Matthiola parviflora, 107
Maw, Mr., departure of, from Sektana, 243
— — his return to Mogador, 293
— — on geology of Marocco, Appendix, 446
Mazagan, 71, 72, 344
— European origin of, 72
Medicago suffruticosa, 232
Medical advice, native desire for 186, 187, 209, 241
Mediterranean, change of level of, 23
Melilla, 56
Mercator’s Atlas, 378
Mesembryanthemum nodiflorum, 123
Mesfioua, district of, 159
— Kaïd of, 162
Milhain, 196, 299
Miltsin, peak of, 121, 154
Mint tea, 93, 105
Misra ben Kara, 118, 119
Mogador, arrival at, 75
— climate of, 88-90, 327
— departure from, 95
— disturbances at, 329, 333
— exports of, 91
— final departure from, 338
— Governor, dinner with, 92, 93
— island, 80, 86, 450
Mogador, neighbouring country of, 81, 82
— return to, 325
— society of, 91
— town of, 80, 81
‘Mogador et son climat,’ by V. Seux, 91
Mona, or offering of food, 103, 108, 115, 198, 203, 292
Monanthes, new species of, 268
Montefiore, Sir Moses, 137
Montia fontana, 219
Moorish escort, 79
— government, defects of, 235
— ideas, 140
— stories, Appendix, 466
Moors, diet of, 288
— endurance of, 119
Moulai Ibrahim, 191, 192, 241
Mountains, native names for, 295
Mskala, 309
Mtouga, hostilities at, 305
— Kasbah of, 303
— return of envoy from, 293
— treatment of prisoners at, 305
Mules, sale of, 334
Muley Hassan, Viceroy of Marocco, 131, 135
Mzouda, 277

NEGRO Governor, 115
— moral sense of, 286
Notoceras canariensis, 123
Ntifa, province, 147, 368
Nurzam, 245
Nzela, 109, 110

OAK, cork, 67, 253
— evergreen, 20, 189, 253, 268
Observations for altitude of stations, 357
— requisite corrections, 358
Ocean currents, 345
Odontospermum odorum, 316
Oil mills, 190
Oleanders, 29, 120, 210
Olive, 10, 29, 31, 101, 114, 197, 204
— wild, 320
Onobrychis crista galli, 107
Ophrys apifera, 190
— lutea, 32
Opuntia vulgaris, 10, 28, 169
Orange, 10, 39, 114
Orchis latifolia, 176
— pyramidalis, 190
Orobanche, species of, 240
Osmunda regalis, 64
Ostrich feathers, 336
Ouanzerout, 195
Oued Bouregrag, 65, 67, 373
— Enfist, 191
— Ghaghaia, 192
— Kseb, or El Ghoreb, 82, 95, 100
— — affluence of, 303
— Moulouya, 35, 36, 376
— Nfys, 119, 191, 245
— Noun, 96, 245
— — course of, 276
— — source of, 264
— Oum-er-bia, 71, 72, 147, 151, 374
— — current of, 72
— Sebou, 67, 373
— Tensift, 96, 107, 114, 122, 152, 163, 191
— Tessout, 147, 367, 368
— Usbi, 281
— Za, 36
Ourika valley, 155, 168, 172, 175
— opening of, 172
— — vegetation of, 175, 176

PALMETTO, 17, 28, 42
Pan, 43
Papilio podalgyrius, 197
Partridge, red legged, 233
Peaches, 39
Peganum Harmala, 109
Periploca lævigata, 315
— græca, 316
Phaca bœtica, 55
Phelipæa lutea, 118
Phillyrea, 10, 210
Phytographia Canariensis, 406, 409, 419
Phytolacca arborea, 62
Picris albida, 117
— pilosa, 145
Pimpernel, blue, 16
Pinus halepensis, 256
Pirates, Riff, 57
Pistachia atlantica, 117
Pistorinia hispanica, DC., 113
— Salzmanniana, 113
Plantago major, 115
Platanthera diphylla, 22
Plants, climbing, 28
Pliny, on Marocco, 374, 375
Pliny, on Citrus wood, 391
Poisoning, 312, 332
Polybius, his voyage, 374
Polygala Balansæ, 165
— Webbiana, 48
Pomegranate, 10, 101, 114
Porphyry rocks, 197, 222
Portuguese buildings on the coast, 72, 73, 343
— exploration, 378
— in South Marocco, 167, 383
— maps, 379
Prickly pear, 10, 28
Prinsep, Mr. W., drawing of Great Atlas by, 155
Pseudosaharan vegetation, 109
Pulicaria longifolia, 160
Purpurariæ, vegetation of, 417

QUERCUS Ballota, 268
— coccifera, 10, 20, 189
— Ilex, 253
— lusitanica, 20, 189
— suber, 253

RABAT, 65
Ranunculus, species of, 43, 44
Ravensrock, 9, 10, 24
— view from, 10, 11
Reraya, 180, 184
— district of, 184
Reseda, species of, 291
Retam, 95, 106
Retama monosperma, 27
Rhamnus oleoides, 189
Rhaponticum acaule, 109, 242
Rhododendron ponticum, 18, 58
Rhus, species of, 320
— pentaphylla, 106
Richardson, Mr. W. H., Appendix, 485
Riff tribes, 84
— Mts. or Lesser Atlas, 2, 9, 35
Riffian families, 46
Rochemonteix, M. de, 483
Rock dwellings at Aïn Tarsil, 300
— — Mtouga, 307
Rogers, Mr. Freeman, Appendix, 468
Rohlfs, Gerhard (note), 46, 260, 385
Rosa canina, 164
— sempervirens, 41
Rubia tinctorum, 216
Rumex pulcher, 115
Rumex vesicarius, 293
Rye, 197, 200, 216

SAFFI, or Asfi, 73, 338
— view of, 73
Sagina Linnæi, 219, 231 (note), 445
Sallee, 65, 67
— pirates of, 65
Salomon ben Daoud, 150, 366
Salvia ægyptiaca, 245
— tricolor, 346
Sand hills, formation of, 325
Saxifraga Maweana, 42
Schismus calycinus, 123
Schousboë, 82
Scilla hemisphærica, 17
— maritima, 17
Scirpus Holoschænus, 115
Scorpions, 319
Sedum modestum, 177
Seksaoua, arrival at, 283
— hostilities at, 283
— rock vegetation at, 286
Sektana, plateau of, 240
Selaginella rupestris, 189
Senecio Doronicum, 45
— giganteus, 172
— (Kleinia) pteroneura, 83
Serrania de Ronda, 11, 45
Shad fish, 71
Shedma, arrival at, 101, 309
— camp at, 101
— Governor of, 310
— — poisonings by, 312
— — hospitality of, 102, 311
— Kasbah of, 104, 311
Shedma, province, 101, 110
Sheep, sacrifice of, 229
Shelluh or Shleuh, characteristics, 187, 188
— cloak, 216
— diet 203
— houses, 215
— language, 84, 91; Appendix, 478
— market, 251
— medical practice among, 209
— mountaineers, 216
— population, 187, 188
— serious demeanour, 297
— superiority, 233
— taste for ornament, 235
— villages, 179, 180
Sheshaoua, oasis of, 107, 114
Sibthorpia europea, 58
Sidi Boubikir, 127, 136, 138
Sidi Mohammed Hassanowe, 127, 138
— Moktar, 109
Sierra Morena, 18
Siss, river, 377
Sisymbrium Irio, 114
Smilax aspera, 28
— mauritanica, 28
Snake charmers, 30, 31
Snow, absence of perpetual, 291
— beds of, 201, 259, 260, 263
— storm on Great Atlas, 222
Sonchus oleraceus, 115
Souk el Ileta, 105
Sous, pass over Atlas to, 207, 226, 264
— river, 96, 301, 373, 379
— valley, 259, 264, 265
— view of, 264, 265
Spanish campaign in Marocco, 1859-1860, 52
Spartel, Cape, 5, 16, 20
— excursion to, 16
Sparteum junceum, 165
Spergula saginoides, 231
Spergularia diandra, 161
Stachys saxicola, 302
Stapelia europea, 87
Statice mucronata, 95
— ornata, 120
— sinuata, 23
Stellaria uliginosa, 219
Stipa tortilis, 109
Stork, 30
Strait of Gibraltar, comparison of sides, 58, 59
Succowia balearica, 42
Suetonius Paulinus, his expedition, 375
Sultan, body-guard of, 115
— letters of, 64, 75, 76
— orders of, 9
Suæda fruticosa, 114

TAGANAGURT, fort of, 297
Tagherot pass, 226
— height of, 227
Tagovast, 342, 379
Tamarix africana, 65
— articulata, 123
— gallica, 163
Tamashek’ language, 480
Tangier, 4, 64, 346
— climate of, 8, 63
— history of, 7
— interior of, 6
Tangier, return to, 24, 62, 345
— trade of, 8
Tapia, 104
Tarudant, 294, 341, 379, 383
— pass leading to, 294, 376, 383
Tasseremout, 159, 160, 165, 166
— fort at, 166
Tassghirt, 194
Tassilunt, camp at, 183
Tent, Alpine Club pattern, 134, 237
Tetuan, 2, 9, 39, 50
— Jew quarter, 39
— Jewish population of, 48
— start for, 25
— valley of, 37
Teucrium, species of, 286
— collinum, 106
— Polium, 106
Thevenin, Dr., 81, 87
Thuja, of the ancients, 390
Thymus Broussonneteii, 98
— maroccanus, 65
Tifinout, pass of, 226
Tilli, Professor, 291
Timbuktou, caravans from, 336
Touareggs, or Touarecks, 85, 480
Trachelium, species of, 296
Trafalgar, cape, 11
Trap, or basalt, 113
Trees, destruction of, 178
— scarcity of, 20, 296
Tres Forcas, cape, 56
Troglodytes, 301

ULEX bæticus, 47

VEGETABLES, absence of cultivated, 288
Vegetation and agriculture of low country, 27
Velez de Gomera, 56, 57
Venture de Paradis, on the Kabyle language, 479
Veronica Beccabunga, 219
Villages, ruined, 252
Vine, wild, 28, 216
Vitex Agnus-castus, 100
Volubilis, town of, Appendix, 485

WALNUT, 169, 178, 269
Washington, Admiral, 2, 384, 447
Washington, Admiral, excursion of, 168
— observations of, at Marocco, 155
— route of, 120
Water, colour of, 71
Webb, Mr. Barker, 41, 42, 44, 57
Wedding, Jewish, 337
Wheat, red-bearded, 182
White, Mr., 64
Williams, Sir W. F., 61, 347
Withania fruticosa, 101

XIPHION tingitanum, 63

ZAFFARINE ISLANDS, 57
Zaouia, 117
Zénaga, or Zanaga tribe (note), 377
— their language, 480, 483
Zizyphus lotus, 99, 106, 111, 119, 143
Zygophyllum Fontanesii, 339

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Transcriber's note:

pg 22 Changed: _Plantanthera diphylla_ to: _Platanthera_

pg 28 Changed: _Genista elevata_ to: _clavata_

pg 41 Changed: by liberal expediture to: expenditure

pg 57 Added period after: destroyed by the Spaniards

pg 153 Changed: vary form the mean to: from

pg 225 Changed: sudden illlumination to: illumination

pg 255 Added period after: the general result

pg 260 Added period after: infer from his narrative

pg 310 Added period after: outbreak of hostilies

pg 331 Changed: plunged into water, to: water.

pg 332 Changed: under he protection to: the

pg 337 Changed: Wildenow to: Willdenow

pg 344 Changed: 90 F. to: 90° F.

pg 365 Added § to last cell of last row

pg 387 Changed: Lybia to: Libya

pg 408 Changed: Rhammus to: Rhamnus

pg 413 Moved: PAROLINIA from left column to right (genera) column

pg 425 Changed: Verbascum calnycium to: calycinum

pg 437 Changed: .07 to: 0.07

pg 494 Changed: Gibraltar, rock of, 60, 743 to: 347

pg 496 Changed: Plantanthera diphylla to: Platanthera

pg 496 Changed: Peganum Harmata to: Harmala

The changes suggested in the Errata have been made.

Multi-column tables without headers, that span more than one page
have been changed to single column.

Other spelling and formatting inconsistencies have been left
unchanged.