Chapter III: Part 3

I brought a box of refuse toys from Norfolk Island to which our boys and girls there have grown superior, and the exhibition and distribution of them created quite a furore. One would never suppose in these days of superior enlightenment that any people could be found simple enough to go into ecstacies over a halfpenny toy, but these women and children have gone off perfectly enraptured with their new possessions, and I dare say they will treasure them up for many a day and find pleasure in the contemplation and exhibition of them. One poor young mother has just brought in great distress her infant child which she says is suffering from a pain in its side, and the only remedy I can conceive of is a dose of castor oil. The father comes around to my side of the table, and whispers that it has not been ‘washed’ yet, meaning that it has not been Baptized, and that it has no name. While writing this Samuel appeared with another friend from Tasmouri, and I went with them to the beach where all the population had previously gone. Our path lay through the carefully and skilfully irrigated taro fields, and of course it was very bad in some places. Crossing one place I made a false step and went up to my knees, it was a fitting judgment on my pride for I refused the assistance of a stalwart follower’s back, which had borne me dry and safely over two such places before. I presented a strangely harlequin appearance with white flannel trowsers above the knee, and black mud gaiters below. However appearances are easily pardoned here, and the only grief was at my own discomfort. The people of course all said it was because the roads were so bad, but that was too palpable a truism, and was no relief to my feelings. Bootless and trowserless, these paddy paths make no difference to them, and mud has not the same appearance on a black skin. However we went to the sea-shore and saw the sport which was not much. One very large fish was caught with a hook and line, and the women had great horse-loads of shell fish, but generally the bowmen came off badly. The tide was out to the utmost limit of the reef, and quite half-a-mile from the shore the rocks were entirely exposed. Of course there was some very good reason for the failure and ill luck, and I was somewhat surprised to hear the wind blamed. It so happened that what of that element there was, was off shore, but if it had been only blowing in shore it would have driven in the fish. However there was disappointment depicted on every countenance, and there was some trifling relief to the feelings in putting the blame on the wind. Probably if the wind is all right to-morrow something else will be wrong, and so on. What a wonderful place in the English language those two little words ‘if’ and ‘but’ have, and how they qualify almost every action of mankind, and how usually are they made use of in self-extenuation. How scarcely possible is it to describe a single character without the use of one or other of them! He would be a very nice fellow ‘if.’ She would be an estimable woman ‘but.’ On our homeward road I marched boldly through mud and water taking pride I suppose in revenging myself, and showing my unmentionables that now the pink of their whiteness was off, they might just as well be a little more dirty. However, a refreshing bath was some return for my chagrin and discomfort, and I hastened home for a clean change. The cooks brought me two deliciously cooked fish for dinner, and were very disappointed when I sent them back untasted. I am never very partial to fish, and in these latitudes my digestive organs rebel even against the smell of them. However, the boys very soon picked the bones, and perhaps were not sorry that I had not partaken. There is great feasting going on to-night with both sexes, the men with their fish supper and the women with shell-fish.

Everywhere to-day we saw the bush lit up with the bright red “Rarava,” a gorgeous tree, which flowers at this time of the year, and gives its name to the winter season. The other season is called “Magoto” from a reed of that name which shoots in spring, and these are the only native seasons of the year. There does not seem to be however any very marked distinction or peculiar line of demarcation between summer and winter as regards the heat and cold, but in fact it does seem to be warmer in the “Magoto” and cooler in the “Rarava.” To an Englishman however it is always hot, and he does not detect any material difference. One shivers now to think of ice and snow and of such concomitants of the winter season, for here of course they are absolutely unknown.

_Tuesday, August 3rd._--It gets somewhat monotonous to write every day of cold nights, but this last one has been no exception. The cold is so peculiar and penetrating that clad in flannel from head to foot, and covered with a blanket and rug, I failed to keep it out, and slept very badly in consequence. When I did sleep, too, I was troubled with dreams and fancied myself in Ireland hunted by ‘Moonlighters.’ I had proposed to go to a very distant district called “Golvanua” to-day, but at the eleventh hour my escort cried off and I could not go alone. I cannot quite say why it is, but natives when they are about to make an excursion almost invariably start on the spur of the moment without making any previous appointment, or specifying any distinct time. Whether they wish to elude ‘Fate’ and deprive it of the chance of being unpropitious by stealing a march, or whether the fear of material foes induces them to do these things secretly so that they may not be cognizant of their movements, or what it is I do not know, but fact it is that if you want to make a journey, you must abide the native’s time and conveniences for they will seldom assent to yours if premeditated or prearranged.

I quite expect that some fine morning, before I am out of bed perhaps, my escort will be awaiting me outside my door, and anxiously and impatiently desiring to start at once. Natives make no preparation for a journey, they have no impedimenta of travel, and lightly clad, and lightly weighted, they are ready at any moment to start, and a long or short stay is all the same to them. They want no canteens or bedding or change of clothing, and they can lay their heads down in any spot, and rest and refresh themselves, and be ready for any emergency. They do not even need as much as a tooth brush and pair of slippers for their excursions, and marvel at our wanting so much to them unnecessary luggage. I believe I should make many more journeys, if I could accomplish them with so little inconvenience and discomfort.

Samuel went back this morning, and I am to go to Tasmouri on Friday for a week. He gives a very good account of his work there and I am anxious to see and judge for myself. The whole Community there are Baptized, and most exemplary Christians they are. They are very nice lively good-natured people too, but are not very numerous. Indeed these Maewo villages have dwindled down to very few inhabitants, from one cause and another, and a large measure of the decrease is owing to the wide spread practice of infanticide. Now in this district that practice, thank God, is checked and the population is again on the increase. Moses who was here with Samuel to-day asked me to Baptize while at Tasmouri his fourth child, three boys of his are already Baptized, and such mothers as his wife are a blessing to the race. Here two mothers have three children apiece, and several have two. I wish however the mothers would bring up their children a little better, they are the perfect slaves of their offspring, and give into them in everything. Talk about spoilt children, I have to roar every day of my life to some little urchin, screaming his lungs out because his mother does not do at once what he wants. The mother beats at one moment and coaxes at another, and the child grows up anyhow, a burden to himself and a nuisance to his neighbours. I want a good superior minded and well educated mother here to give some practical advice. Arthur’s wife is but a child herself, and as devoid of gumption as the rest of them. Poor people, they do not know what trouble and misery they entail upon themselves and their children from a want of a little firmness, and well timed correction.

It has been a most glorious day, and this morning I accepted an invitation from the boys to go to ‘Kerepei.’ The tide was very low and many of the people had preceded us, and were busy searching the reef and rocks for the much prized products of the sea shore. The little fellows got me most deliciously sweet green cocoanuts, and while I was bathing caught me a nice lot of prawns for my tea. Days spent in this way are very pleasant, for we get to know each other all the better, and I can exercise a continual supervision over their actions. I generally carry a paper or portable volume with me, and to-day the Church Times was my companion. The evening was most glorious and peaceful, but when the sun went down peculiarly cold. Now as I write I have a blazing fire in my house, and I feel the comfort of it. The poor ill clad people are shivering all around, and are off to their several domiciles to try and get some heat. The attendance at school to-night was worse than I have known it yet, and the cold was said to be the reason of it.

_Wednesday, August 4th._--There seems a perfect rage for fishing just now, when the exceptionally low tides afford such advantages for the pursuit. School was no sooner over to-day, than there was a general exodus seaward of all the able bodied inhabitants of the place. They talk to-day of trying the “Tasigoro” to see what it yields. This Tasigoro is a tabu’d enclosure of so much of the reef as those who make it choose, and it is made in this way--one, two, three or indeed any number of people who have reached the rank of “welu” kill a certain kind of pig, and for ten days the killer or killers are supposed to subsist on pig’s flesh, at the end of ten days they go to the beach, and mark off the chosen portion of the beach with a long bamboo at either end, like a base for football, but on a somewhat larger scale, and tie on to the bamboo the leaf of a certain palm tree; the person or persons then bathe in that part of the sea, and the juice of the pig’s flesh which they have eaten, is supposed to have the effect of sanctifying in some way the place, and no one fishes within the enclosure until the “welus” choose to take the “tabu” off. There is a talk of doing this to-day, and the whole population turns out to it. Of course the whole length and breadth of the reef during these low tides is left high and dry, and the fish have wisdom enough to retire as the tide goes out, but some are dilatory like Lot in his flight from Sodom, and some stop to have a look back like his wife, these are therefore left behind in the several pools that are everywhere dotted about of more or less depth. Some fish again which feed upon the reef have natural channels of escape into deep water, but these are very skilfully guarded by the natives with large nets, and the fish are captured while making a rush to get out into the open sea. All these channels are carefully guarded, and a very large number of fish shut in from escape on the more or less exposed reef. The leaves of a certain shrub are used for the purpose of stupifying the fish in the deeper pools, and they are easily caught when under the influence of the stupification. Others again are shot with bows and arrows, others speared, others caught by hand until at times the haul numbers several thousands, of all sorts, sizes and descriptions. After this great catch of course there is much feasting and rejoicing, and according to their own old heathen superstitious ideas there is something sacred in the fish so caught. ‘Kava’ is largely drunk on these occasions and the festivities are prolonged for many days. After my experience the other day I did not care to go again, and followed Arthur and some others to ‘Rarava,’ whither I took my photographic camera, and shot off a most beautiful picture in nature. I hope it may prove so in development.

William, one of the men, lit a fire and soon produced some fine large bread-fruit which were placed on the embers, and deftly turned over and over so as to be properly cooked all round. The result was that in about a quarter of an hour I was engaged upon a smoking hot loaf of bread, which eaten with scraped cocoa-nut is very nice indeed. Breadfruit is too much like boiled dough to be really very nice, but to me it is very palatable food. The black outside coating peels off very readily when well cooked, and leaves a round puddingy sort of compound to be eaten. Inside are seeds somewhat bigger than a marble, not unlike filberts, and these are generally eaten with the breadfruit, the hard outside husk easily peeling off, and leaving a large bean like kernel. “Duwu” prepared his in quite a new way to me. Having pealed off the outside crust caused by the cooking, he wrapped the whole fruit up in the long dracæna leaves, and tied up the neck very carefully. He then took a small bamboo, and beat the breadfruit into a soft pulp, giving it a few final bangs on the ground, the leaves were opened, and the pudding turned out on leaves resembling very much a squash, and then cut up like a vegetable marrow into slices and eaten with scraped cocoanut. This I think was nicer than the bare breadfruit. We were a little party of twelve of both sexes, and all shared alike, men and women eating together in the most friendly manner, and not only so but the men did the cooking and helped the women in the nicest way. I could not help thinking what a contrast it was to years gone by. There we were sitting every man under his own vine and under his own fig, with no apparent fear or apprehension of evil, and the most perfect harmony of the two sexes existing among us. Here you scarcely ever now see the husband without the wife, and where you see the wife you may know the husband is not far off. Amina and Eliza kindly got me some land crabs which I enjoyed for tea. These and prawns are readily obtainable, and make a nice occasional change.

_Thursday, August 5th._--A strong Trade wind blowing fresh all night, and this morning it is still very gusty and disagreeable.

To-morrow there is another house to be thatched, and those who are not crazed about fishing are off getting food. From the commencement to the finish, house building here is a matter of great importance. There are four kinds of houses, of which the ‘gamal’ is the chief. This is the men’s club, and the young men’s sleeping quarters. Within its walls the women may not enter, and there is a certain circumscribed boundary into which they may not trespass. All food cooked in the ‘gamal’ is partaken of by the men only, and a woman may not eat of it under any consideration. ‘Kava’ is prepared and drunk there also, and of this a woman may not drink. Within the gamal are various ovens according to the several degrees of rank, and those of the same grade eat out of one oven, and the rules of precedence are strictly adhered to. Fire used within the gamal may not be used in a private house. After a certain age all boys are supposed to live in the gamal, and that becomes their proper quarters until they marry and build houses of their own. Any man may sleep in the gamal and eat food there.

The next house in importance is the “ima” or married man’s residence. Within this house the cooking of the food for the family is done, and the married couples live. This house is known from the rest, by having the front and back end worked with cane, and more pains are expended on the building of it. The third kind of house is the “vale,” within which there is no fire place for cooking, and this is used mostly as the apartments of the young females before marriage, and for stowing any treasures which may be inconvenient in the “ima.” The front and end of the ‘vale’ are made only of bamboos. A fourth kind of house is the “ima somu” (the Bank). In this house is kept the treasures of the village, and it is always known by a peculiarly neat front of reeds, and by a very curious sort of pallisade of reeds placed in a sort of semicircle around the front door. Within this house a fire is kept continually burning night and day, and the reason for this is that the most prized and valuable article of barter here is the smoked mat, and the blacker it can be smoked the more does it increase in value. As may be supposed, within these houses a most weird and odd sight presents itself. The gross darkness being only relieved by the glowing embers of the undying fire, the fresh black mats look like so many great flying foxes suspended over it.

The importance of the several houses is therefore in this order, the “gamal,” “ima,” “vale,” and “ima somu.” When a building is finished there is always a great ceremony ranging in importance according to the description of the house. For the gamal the ‘house warming’ is a matter of much ceremonial called “nasu,” and a man is supposed to “nasu gamal” with a pig at least. Any live stock may be slaughtered in “nasu ima,” and fowls, or if possible fish, are mostly in requisition. Plain food only is required for the two latter, but all the same there must be some house warming, or the building would not be properly finished. The house I occupy is an “ima,” and being a proprietor of many pigs, I am going to add to the dignity and full completion of my residence, by slaughtering two innocent animals next Thursday (D.V.) and the school will get a general holiday and a pleasant evening. I do this partly because I want to give the boys some slight return for the pains they have been at in building the house, to get a piece of pork myself, and to give a holiday in honour of my return among them. They say they must dig an oven within the ‘ima’ to make the thing complete, but to this I object. To-morrow, all being well, I go to Tasmouri.

_Friday, August 6th._--Morning Prayer, school and breakfast at Tanoriki, and then started with three others for Tasmouri. It was a most lovely day, and a fresh Trade wind fanned the air and kept the paths pleasantly cool. Beneath the deep, dark shade of the native forest, the strong burning heat of the morning sun was not oppressive, and the roads and bush were fortunately very dry. However, any exertion in this climate induces perspiration, and that one expects.

The native guide swung along at a rapid pace, and we were not long in reaching “Uta,” where we rested for some time in the neat little school, and Takele regaled us with green cocoanuts, which were very acceptable. Poor Takele, who has only one enlightened friend to help him, finds a difficulty in getting his scholars together on a week day, and no wonder, as I suppose he knows very little more than they do themselves, and it is irksome to old people to spell over their A.B.C. day after day, and get no oral instruction. It is far more in consonance with their feelings and habits to go out for the day, either to the seashore or to their gardens, than to be trammelled with the cares and labour of school. On Sundays he says they turn up in large numbers, and generally some one goes to them from Tanoriki. I promised him a visit for Sunday week, all being well, and I shall try to keep my promise, for he deserves all the help we can extend to him. He has never been away, is a man now of middle age, and entirely self-taught. He is a most excellent, conscientious man, and tries to do all he can for his people, according to his limited amount of knowledge.

He built the school himself and keeps it in most extraordinary order. In many cases he has acted as a deterrent on his countrymen, when they have proposed some heathen act which he has not thought to be within the bounds of strict rectitude, and I believe he tries to lead a good life as far as he knows. As far as morality goes, I do not think anyone would venture to bring an accusation against him. I have always intended to Baptize him, and perhaps this year I may put my intentions into effect. Leaving “Uta” we still marched on in single file, till we reached the brow of the cliff down which, of necessity, we had to descend, Tasmouri being on the other side of the island to windward. A striking and broad prospect greeted us from the hill top, and we saw besides Meralava and the wide expanse of ocean before us, the grand fertile plain belonging to the Tasmouri district, and the church and school visible in the far distance. At the foot of the steep cliff our way lay through the beautifully irrigated taro beds, and of course I had to pick my way to prevent being buried in mud. Leaving the gardens, we had a grand stretch of level country before us, and before long we came upon a merry party of Tasmouri people awaiting our arrival, some distance from their village. Being tired and hungry I pushed on ahead with some of the boys, and enjoyed a refreshing bathe and change of garments. Then came what I suppose I must dignify by the name of dinner, mostly native food, but eaten with the best sauce was as good as the best Lord Mayor’s feast, and I dare say as digestible. The Bishop’s kind present was most useful, and the canteen contained every article requisite for out of the way travellers. After the meal the people came home, and before long we had Evensong. I was quite surprised at the heartiness of the responses, the fluency of the reading, and the general brightness of the singing and service.

The women sang out lustily with a good courage, and although a trifle slow the result was pleasing on the whole. With a little teaching the singing and service will be very nice. I find I have Baptized forty-six people here, two of whom have died, two have gone away in a labour vessel, and forty-two still remain. They are a very nice, genuine, exemplary community, and Samuel has kept them well together. They seem to me beyond the Tanrigese in point of mental ability, and readily take in fresh ideas. One or two of the young men are very superior fellows. This evening I felt the warmth of this place, by comparison with Tanrig, and for the first time for the year I have slept without any kind of covering. The reed bed I found somewhat hard, but one cannot expect everything, and is content with such things as one has. The condition of the people morally, socially and spiritually, simply reconcile one to any amount of bodily inconvenience. I can thank God and take courage.

_Saturday, August 7th._--Most beautiful morning at Tasmouri. After Prayers and breakfast we all went for a picnic to a pretty place called “Ro[¨n]o nawo” meaning the sound of the surf, but why I don’t know. It is curious how the Mota word has got in here “nawo.” The word here for surf is “togovi” but nawo comes probably from Meralava. We all turned out for the holiday, men, women and children. The women did the cooking while the men and boys amused themselves in various ways, fishing, shooting, bathing or playing an animated game called “buka,” something between “prisoner’s base” and the old game of “tig.” Some of the young men amused themselves by shooting at a mark about thirty or forty yards distant. They made such good shooting at that distance, that I should be very sorry to give them a shot at me with a good well balanced poisoned arrow. At short distances of course they make very good work, and in their own skirmishes they don’t want to make long shots. I dare say by the side of a good English archer they would cut a sorry figure at a long shot, but for their own purposes they are excellent shots, and custom of course engenders skill. Their arrows are unfeathered, and I don’t expect will carry as true as the better made English arrow. Their bows are very strong and durable, being made curiously enough from a tree called the “Aru” (she oak). I spent my day pleasantly enough in reading and making pencil notes. Crabs and breadfruit was my luncheon, and a green cocoanut. The whole party assembled in the course of the afternoon, and the ovens were opened and their plentiful supply of food disgorged. I said grace and then there was a general fall to. The meal over we made preparation for a start homewards which we reached some time before sunset. On the way home the boys showed me in the water course a cocoanut tree which time had failed to rot or destroy, and the story according to native ideas was that this same tree was coexistant with the upheaval of the island, and had never changed, generation after generation handing on the fact of its existence and whereabouts.

In the evening we had Prayers in the church and a nice hearty Service. Poor “Samuel” the head teacher is sick and has not been able to be with us to-day. I gave a short address at Evensong explanatory mostly of to-morrow’s programme. It is very warm here and one’s thoughts either cease to flow or one’s hand to write, anyhow I find a difficulty in inducing energy to write or my brain to cogitate.

Except for the perpetual boom and surge of the restless ocean all is still and peaceful here at present.

On Saturdays following the general and long prevailing custom of the Mission we have a whole holiday, and consequently this morning we had only the shortened form of Mattins such as we use here. Breakfast followed consisting of yam scraped and cooked in leaves, and the particular kind presented for my discussion this morning is called “laqa[¨n]a.” The natives are great cooks and have a very long list of various dishes on their menu.

There are three principal modes of cooking food, however, such as yams and taro, (1) Roasted on the embers and the outside skin carefully scraped off as it gets hardened, this is called “tutunu,” (2) scraped on the rough edge of the tree fern, then wrapped in leaves like a large pudding and cooked in the hot stones, this is termed “loko,” (3) roasted on the fire until cooked, then beaten on a large wooden dish until as thin about as biscuit pastry, and cocoanut cream poured over, this is named “lutu.” The first two are the most common preparations, and the first perhaps most generally in use.

The different kinds of “loko and lutu” are wonderful, and it would puzzle any one but a skilled native cook, to make any distinct varieties of dishes out of such unpromising materials.

Both sexes are good cooks, and no wonder, as from the time they are able properly to run about, until the infirmities of old age creep on they are accustomed to shift for themselves. An English boy would fare very badly if he had to cook his own dinner, and provide for his own wants as early as some of these native children. But education and habit are everything, the latter of course is second nature.

_Sunday, August 8th._--At Tasmouri. Beautiful but very warm morning. After breakfast we had Sunday School, at which every member of the village population was present. I was much pleased with the way four or five classes repeated by heart their catechism, and the collect for the week, and answered general questions on the subject. It showed one that school was a serious and important business both with teacher and pupil. We went from the school into church, where we had full Morning Service but without any Sermon. Service over, I was followed by the whole male population to Tasmate. The day was very hot, and we had been obliged to choose the hottest part of it for our walk. However we tumbled over the same creepers, knocked our heads against the same branches, brushed against the same bristly bushes, that the natives of Maewo have done ever since they peopled the island. No one ever thinks of trying to improve his own or his neighbour’s ways, and from being accustomed so long to the present condition of the paths, they are quite content to experience the discomfort for ever and aye, they were good enough for their own forefathers, why should not they be good enough for them. Being head and shoulders taller than most of our natives, I suffered untold agonies mentally and physically, but I submit to the necessity, knowing that unless I commence to improve matters myself, I may expect the same discomforts to the end of the chapter. My helmet on more than one occasion has saved my head very severe concussions, and to be bonnetted is no uncommon occurence. However, on we swung, I being thankful that the road was so level as it was, and at length arrived at Tasmate more fit to be comforted than to think of administering comfort to others. They have built a nice little school here, and by the way they turned up at the subsequent service it was manifest that they knew the use of it. Augmented by the Tasmouri people the little place was crowded to its fullest capabilities, and the heat and flies were not such as one would choose for ordinary enjoyment, but personal comforts with Missionaries are a secondary consideration. We had a nice service, and I gave a somewhat long address in spite of inconveniences, and when it was over I retired to the cool refreshing shade by the sea shore, and all at once everyone began to feel the heat and followed me there. However, our conversation ran in an edifying course, and I hope some were profited by it. The return home was the next consideration, and I must say it seemed formidable for a Sunday afternoon. We reached a place called “Na Seu,” and there I could not resist a bathe in the natural bathing place, under such a deliciously cool shoot of water. We came home by a new route which was said to be much shorter, but it turned out to be quite as long I think, and not nearly so pleasant walking.

At “Uta riki,” where I formerly remember a good population, one man and a small child are the only surviving remnant. The rest are all scattered or dead. We asked him to come to Tasmouri and live there, but he would not consent on the spur of the moment. His son and relations left are mostly there. In matter of wives he has been a regular Blue Beard, and the last of a long list has just died, and left him a widower.

We arrived in due course at Tasmouri, and after dinner all together, which the women had provided in our absence, we had Evensong, a very nice service with a Sermon from me. The women proposed singing afterwards, and this went on till late. At the Evening Service I Baptized the infant daughter of Moses, naming her Anika. Moses, wife, and four children are now a Christian family. His care of, and love for, his children gave me good food for my discourse afterwards, as did the case of ‘Dimeli’ and the remnant of his people migrating from the place where many had died, to a place where all were going to keep well and live, with the result that all have died with the exception of himself. There was no hope of life apart from God.

_Monday, August 9th._--Very hot, oppressive day, and I was so ill throughout I did little or nothing. My efforts to get cool were utterly abortive. Great Christening festivities were going on all day. The fatted pig was killed and eaten with much thankfulness and rejoicing in the evening. At Evensong I screwed my courage up to a Sermon which was better listened to than delivered. Afterwards there was a dance.

_Tuesday, August 10th._--I saw this morning a beardless youth, who is the tenth husband of a woman in the district. One of her sons is a full-gown man at Tasmouri, himself married many years. There is no accounting for taste, but on which side the love or taste is I do not know. Beauty of face and figure have little weight generally with natives, they think more of utility and position. They seem to me to have no idea of the sublime and beautiful either in woman or in nature according to our ideas, and in a very matter of fact way look to the practical side of the business. Polygamy here is the exception, and there is not so large a percentage of females as is found in some of the islands. However, if they are all as easily satisfied as the youth mentioned above, young girls will be at a premium. There is one man here at Tasmouri who has two wives, and he steadily refuses to divorce one or the other with a view to Baptism, and according to our present practice in the administration of that Holy Rite, we insist on monogamy. Strangely enough the son of this very man had five wives, four of whom he divorced in order to be Baptized. All the four divorced are now married and Baptized at Tasmouri.

It was so intolerably hot in the village, I proposed that we should go to Ro[¨n]onawo, as I was going to Tasmate to sleep and that was about a half-way house. All the population followed me, and there we cooked our dinner and rested. After the meal we had a short service there on the beach which was very quiet and solemn, and then with most of the men I turned my steps towards Tasmate, Samuel and a few others, with the women going back to Tasmouri. There was a great shaking of hands, some profusion of tears among the women, and a great deal of Christian harmony between us all.

Arriving at Tasmate we found another dinner awaiting us, and a hearty welcome. We had Prayers after dinner with a sermon from myself, in which I contrasted the present visit with those they must remember to have known in heathen days. Then the hands were full, but the heart was empty, now the heart was full of love and the hands carried no bow and arrows. We had great Hymn singing afterwards, and the men sat and talked outside about the present and the past. There are a few hearts here I can see being prepared for the good seed which may God sow in His good time, quickly if it may be, and water the plant of grace with the dew of His Holy Spirit.

We were rather late before we thought of retiring, and I was not sorry at length when it was proposed, for without chair or seat, except a native tree, there was no great pleasure in sitting.

_Wednesday, August 11th._--Spent a very uncomfortable night at Tasmate. The kind people had done all they could to make me comfortable, but I found the bed very hard, the sleeping quarters very rough, the fleas in large numbers, and the mosquitos very lively. However, I have been more uncomfortable, and I was not unthankful to be brought safely to the beginning of another day. A place was named to me last evening called “Beitabu,” as being a most choice spot for a bathe, and it was said to be near at hand. Having not many toilet requisites with me, I proposed to one “Lulu” a denizen of the place to pilot me there. I was very “breakfasty” and most unrefreshed, but away we started for “Beitabu.” It was a fearful grind to get there, and the distance seemed to me interminable. Of course being well watered there were irrigated taro beds, and I slipped off a bank clean into the mud. Yet when the spot was reached it made up for all difficulties and distresses and proved to be a most marvellous natural bath, a large, clear, deep pool, with water pouring in from a charming little waterfall, and flowing out rapidly over the rocks below. I do not know when I have enjoyed a bath more, or when water had a more invigorating and refreshing effect on me. Fortunately my host had what breakfast there was ready for me when I got back, and in my state of exhaustion it did not much matter what it was. After breakfast we had Morning Prayer with a short address from me instead of school. Not long after “sail oh!” was cried and my boat appeared to bring me back here to Tanrig, and heartily glad am I to be back here again in comparative comfort. We had a pleasant but rather heavy row up the coast, our party on board numbering twenty-eight. Fortunately the sea was very smooth, and not much wind, or probably we should not have fared so well. All my Tasmouri friends came on with me and are spending the night. All were well here and the place looked much as usual. One little baby had died unbaptized during my absence, a matter of great regret to everybody, and very much so to me. I had known of the child’s illness, and it was better before I left. I had therefore postponed its Baptism until I could make it convenient to Baptize three or four more infants now waiting for the Rite.

_Thursday, August 12th._--General holiday. Arthur took occasion to “nasu ima” at the same time with me, and the great event of two house warmings drew together a large concourse of people. Fire was lit in my house, and part of a pig and two fowls were cooked in the oven. It is the custom here to have as many kinds of flesh as possible on these occasions, and as many kinds of vegetables, representing I suppose all the different sorts of food that will hereafter be cooked therein. There has been great preparation for this day, and great excitement to-day. Every household added its mite to the feast, and in the evening when the feast was spread out there was a grand display. Everyone had huge pieces of yam and taro and banana cake, and a large piece of fish, fowl and pork. The pork takes precedence, but the fish costs the greatest pains in provision, not being so easily within their reach or means of acquisition. Fish in these countries do not seem to take hook and bait readily, and the poor natives have to resort to all manner of odd expedients to secure them. There were many strangers here, and quite 150 people or more must have partaken. The pork was very nice and most beautifully cooked in the native oven. The females presided over the cutting up, but Arthur as co-host with myself gave directions as master of the feast. He gave a sigh of relief when he came into my house after it was all over, and said “there, what a poor return for so much labour.” That always strikes me as the most pitiable thing about a feast, it is all over in the twinkling of an eye, and what have you for your pains?

This evening there is a great dance, a vast crowd of people has already congregated, and it is to go on till morning light. It is done as a special compliment to myself, and I do not like to stop them. The patient endurance of some of the dancers is wonderful. From the start to the finish, say from 8 p.m. to 4 a.m., they never leave the ranks of the dance but keep at it all the time, singing, clapping the hands and dancing. There is no rest for a good supper at midnight, but the dance is carried right through to the bitter end. I am going to attempt sleep, but I fear the noise will prove too much for me. They have certainly a most beautiful night for their dance, but I should be sorry to be one of the performers. The songs are certainly very pretty, and they show wonderful power of memory to keep up the succession all through the night, without a book of words or musical score.

I can imagine too, as the enthusiasm of the dance increases, that there must be a sort of fascination about the performance.

_Friday, August 13th._--The dance was kept up till daylight, and I got little or no sleep before that. When I did get to sleep, I slept so soundly that it was late on in the morning before I awoke, and then I was driven to it. Arthur Huqe appeared at my bedside and asked me if he should ring the bell for prayers, and I was obliged to consent. The whole day afterwards was somewhat of a blank to me, and I went no whither and did little till evening. The duties of the day however, were carried on as usual.

_Saturday, August 14th._--The usual holiday. We had Prayers very early, and before breakfast I took a picture of most of the congregation in front of the church, which I hope will turn out good. It was not a pleasant day indoors, there was a strong wind blowing, and clouds of dust penetrating my house from all quarters, and I was not sorry to accept Arthur’s offer to go with himself and most of the people to the riverside. There it is always cool and pleasant, and the luxury of a bathe, although almost a daily occurence, is always appreciated. I took my photographic Camera with me, and after almost burying myself in mud, succeeded in getting a good view of the pretty taro gardens. On our way to Rarava the monotony of the road was relieved by our starting a “malau,” the ornithological name of which I know not, but it is a kind of bush turkey, it has a red head, yellow legs and black feathers, and is really like a common hen in shape and appearance. The poor thing was evidently startled from her peculiar nest, where she was about to deposit her eggs. These strange birds after securing a favourable spot, lay their eggs some depth beneath the upper soil, and leave them there uncared for until the young ones hatch themselves, and when strong enough burst their earthly tenement, and come forth to the light of day. Some say the parent comes occasionally back to her nest to see how matters are progressing, and even digs at the earth to find out how the process of hatching goes on. If she finds her progeny ready to walk, she drives them on before her to a place of security, but the general belief is that she allows them to shift for themselves. These curious birds are said to feed principally on the large ants here called “gandee.”

In Savo and some of the Solomon Islands, these birds are tamed and fenced in, to lay their eggs in the hot sand, but here they are wild and rare. Their eggs which are very numerous are esteemed a great delicacy. This poor bird in question tried very hard to get away by flight, but getting entangled in the thick bush, was shot by a cruel arrow. The capture was the food for conversation throughout the day, and I listened to the relation and re-relation of the narrative of it times without number, with all the little details with which natives are wont to embellish and amplify their narration of the smallest fact. It is perfectly wonderful how the smallest matter affords pasture for native conversation, and what a wonderful faculty they have of making multum out of parvum. In powers of conversation and flow of language, I think natives are far before our European working classes. A native never seems at a loss for something to say, and certainly never fails to express himself from lack of words.

I have frequently heard an European confess that he had a great deal to say, but he could not express himself for want of words. The fluency of speech, and powers of conversation are not confined here to the weaker sex, and I think the men have quite as long tongues as the women, although I do not think they chatter so much or make such a clatter. Some of the men are great wits, and make fun for the multitude, but I do not think this applies to the women. The Maewo folks are great “laughers,” and go off into fits of cacchination at the smallest joke. They are a most simple, good-natured race certainly, and it is hard to conceive of their being such depraved savages, so gentle are they in their ways.

After school with the teachers in the evening, during which we discussed our Sunday programme, we had Evensong, and afterwards a long singing practice. Miss Mount’s generous gift is a most welcome addition to our singing, and Arthur Huqe begins to play the harmonium very nicely at the services. Our singing is very fair on the whole, but there is room for improvement, and we have the ability if I could get the girls to use their very nice voices. In the old familiar hymns and chants they sing out lustily, but when we attempt anything new, they shut up altogether, without making a trial to join in.

_Sunday, August 15th._--There are two very homely sounds which break the stillness of the early morning here, and the first is the cock which seems to have a peculiar faculty for crowing in these latitudes, he starts his chant before commerce is awake and he keeps religiously at it all day long. Here at Maewo, too, these birds are in prodigal abundance, their flesh is esteemed very delicate food, and is kept for great and exalted occasions. Here the male takes precedence of the female even in the matter of dumb animals, and sows and hens are looked upon as only fit food for women. The crow of the first cock is a signal for a general chorus, and then the natives begin to stir. As soon as they appear on the threshold of their doors another chorus takes up the morning song, and the pigs begin their squealing. Whether it is that one looks for more peace on Sunday morning, or whether one perchance is a trifle more inclined to take a little more sleep or a little more slumber, whatever the actual cause may be, I always notice that on Sundays there is always a greater noise from the domestic animals than on ordinary days. The pigs here are hand fed, and will not be denied, they squeal to their hearts’ content until they have their morning meal, and being in considerable numbers the noise is not sleep producing. In old days these animals were kept for their heathen feasts, but as of late these have fallen into disuse, so the pigs have increased until they have become one of the features of the place. At a Baptism or any great Church Festival such as Christmas, Easter, Pentecost, one or more male animals have to die, and although the possession of a flock is as much valued as an Englishman’s stud, no one ever grumbles to kill his animal when his turn comes round.

Being very hot this morning, and there being a prospect of the repetition of the Egyptian plague of flies, who always add to the discomfort of a congregation, we had school very early. Our numbers were slightly augmented by outsiders, but not quite to my satisfaction. After a hasty breakfast I started for Uta. This is a good long distance from here, and I was in a state of dripping perspiration when I arrived there. I found everyone keeping a Sabbath, but very few appreciating the idea of a Christian Sunday.

However, I had quite a large congregation in the neat little school but the ladies preponderated in point of numbers. We had quite a nice hearty little service, and they listened patiently to an address from myself. I wish from my heart I had a good teacher to place here, for I know he would be the means of doing much good work to God’s glory. The present teacher is a very good, conscientious fellow, but his own knowledge is not much above that of his own countrymen, and they grow weary of hearing continually the same thing. I was quite pleased with my visit, and amply rewarded for any discomfort I experienced in the journey. I do not expect that any immediate result will issue from such spasmodic efforts, but there is no knowing the power of grace, and God’s ways are not as our ways. Often it is that the last becomes first, and the first last. At all events I keep the door open, and I hope before long someone else may be raised up to settle among them as a permanent teacher. After resting awhile I took my homeward journey, escorted according to custom by the denizens of the village beyond their own boundary. I returned by way of “Na Ruru,” where “Anthony” one of our Norfolk Island trained boys has a school. He seems to be doing fairly well there, and has a nice school. After sitting with him for some time, the shades of evening began to close in, and I to feel somewhat famished, having had but little since morning. Bidding him goodbye I started for Tanrig, where I arrived in due course. After dinner I baptized three children, Maida, Victoria and Matthew respectively. The Font was very prettily arranged and decorated by Arthur Huqe, and the service generally, very nice. Later on we had Evensong, quite a refreshing and stirring service, at which I preached, and never before do I remember to have secured more attention. These children I Baptized this evening make up the number of Christians here to 100, under God, the fruits of my own, and my teacher’s work, and I feel that by the orderly and consistent lives of most of them, I can thank God and take courage.

I took as the basis of my remarks, our Lord’s last command to His Disciples, and I urged those who had already been admitted into the fellowship of Christ’s religion, to eschew all those things which were contrary to their profession, and to follow all such things as were agreeable to the same, and those still without the pale to lose no time in applying for that rite, the absence of which our Lord declared must be condemnation. Those words have a strong sound here for Missionary and heathen--“He that believeth and is Baptized shall be saved, but he that believeth not shall be dammed.” One realizes here their full weight, and solemnity, and power. Quite three parts of the congregation have dropped in to wish me good night, and by the hushed stillness over the place I can tell that God’s Word has not fallen to the ground. God grant that it may minister grace to hearer and preacher.