Chapter VI: Part 6

_Monday, October 4th._--Not very well. I had promised, if well enough, to go to Lobaha to-day, but I had to put off my journey. It was a fine day with a strong Trade wind blowing. In the evening A. P. Huqe was very ill, and I began to be quite alarmed about him. However, we applied hot flannels, which relieved the pain and the vomitting. When he was quieted a little, we removed him to the chief’s house, where he was quiet and comfortable. Some of the boys sat with him, but before I went to bed he was decidedly better, but painfully weak. The only thing I could give him was arrowroot and brandy, which fortunately he liked, and it did him good. I forgot my own ailments in my anxiety for him, and I went to bed aguish and shivering.

_Tuesday, October 5th._--We had got through our morning duties, and I had already secured my boat’s crew, and were on the point of starting for Lobaha, when, “Sail oh!” was cried, and there was the veritable _Southern Cross_ close at hand. It was not long before she was at anchor, and we were rowing off to her. I saw the Bishop and Mr. Palmer on board from some distance off, and when we got alongside, the first question I asked was of course about the Norfolk Island news, which was good. When I got over the side of the ship and had greeted the Bishop and all, I almost fell overboard again with astonishment, for there was Mrs. Selwyn in _proporia persona_, and I could hardly believe my eyes. I was, as they say, perfectly “flabergastered,” and could only shake her by the hand without saying a word, so surprised was I. Yet I was most glad to see her, and she makes quite a new light and life to our ship-board life. Having all my things in the boat, I did not go in again ashore, but the Bishop kindly rowed in to bring off my party who were going to Maewo. When I had settled down a little, and got over my surprise at seeing Mrs. Selwyn, I devoured my home letters, which were very numerous and most welcome. Thank God, all were well and prosperous at Norfolk Island.

One begins a new life now with good news, and a great slice of home on board in the beloved presence of our Bishop’s wife, and the past is forgotten in the present. When the Bishop came off, we got away under steam for Maewo. We had a quick passage over, and were at anchor about 8.30 p.m. It was a glorious evening with a nice bright moon overhead, and the Bishop and Mrs. Selwyn went for a row in the quiet of the night. In due course, we retired, but I found it very hot and stuffy after the cool night air ashore.

_Wednesday, October 6th._--On board the _Southern Cross_. The tide did not serve till nearly noon, and then the watering began. I took no part, because I was not very well, and I had to get my things together preparatory to going ashore. In the afternoon the Bishop and Mrs. Selwyn went ashore for a scramble, and her enthusiasm when she came off was quite refreshing and most charming to see and hear. The watering, too, was finished, and I was to have gone ashore, but I stayed for another night on board, intending to start very early the next morning. However, I was not very well, and the Bishop kindly postponed the time of sailing, so that the vessel did not leave till after breakfast on

_Thursday, October 7th._--Mrs. Selwyn kindly came in with the Bishop to see the last of me, and A. P. Huqe and myself sat some time after our farewells had been said, deliberating the stupendous undertaking of getting to Tanrig. We were both much refreshed by our stay on board, and quite ready for our stay on shore again. I shall certainly not want for medical comforts and dainties, or even medicines, for the Bishop was kindness itself in lading me with one good thing after another, until my paraphernalia of travel have increased to the no small consternation of my bearers. When the vessel was well away we made our start, and with the expenditure of most of our strength, and certainly of all our moisture, we got at length to the top of the first hill. Then it was all plain sailing, and we got to Ruosi, where we rested and bathed. In that refreshing water I seemed to have left all my ailments and distresses, and I was quite another being when I started again for Tanrig. Hither we arrived in due course, and Huqe, too, seemed quite like another being. It is so nice getting back here again, with the cool invigorating air and the cheery welcoming faces all so pleasant. I miss Arthur, though, very much, and now that Patrick has gone in the ship, the place is almost devoid of teachers, ourselves excepted. The first evening ashore was fine, and the moon shone out brightly as we were coming from Prayers.

_Friday, October 8th._--It rained very heavily during the night, and this morning and all day it blew very hard, with heavy rain squalls at intervals. I did not go out all day, and indeed, I had enough to keep me at home. The people were away busy with their gardens, and the women at home preparing the food for the men. I had almost interminable visits from one and another, during the day, to see the pictures which I had taken of the place, and which Dr. Codrington has printed and sent down to me. They were quite charmed with them, and were much more clever in finding out faces and details, than ever I expected they would be. The day drew rapidly to a close, and the evening was fairly pleasant, but somewhat cold and damp. We had a fair attendance at evening school, and I gave them an address instead of school.

_Saturday, October 9th._--A thoroughly wet and disagreeable day. The rain poured down, and the village looked as if it were going to be flooded. It kept on, too, without intermission almost the whole day, and I could not stir out of doors. However, I had plenty of occupation, and the time passed rapidly. It cleared slightly towards evening, and it was fine overhead for Evensong. Nothing seems to keep these hardy people indoors, and most of them have been paddling about all day in their taro gardens, utterly regardless of the state of the elements. In spite of all inconveniences we had quite a large evening congregation, and few seemed the worse in any way for the unpleasant day. It was a cold, raw evening, and I am not sorry that bed-time is so near.

_Sunday, October 10th._--The day somewhat finer overhead, but still very squally and boisterous. As soon as I was up and dressed we had morning school, with a large and general attendance. The first two classes are supposed to say their Sunday Collect at this school, and answer questions on it. The school begins with a Hymn and Prayer, and finishes with the Lord’s Prayer and the Grace. The third class learn the Church Catechism, and the remainder of the school read from a small manual containing the first seven chapters of S. Matthew’s Gospel. The school lasts about an hour. After breakfast we had Morning Prayer, a very nice service, and I Baptized the infant son of Thomas and Lily by name and special request--Penny. A. P. Huqe, Harry, and Agnes stood sponsors. The Font was very tastefully and prettily decorated by Arthur, and the service was very solemn.

After Matins I assembled the Catechumens for instruction, and I told them that I wished everyone present fully to make up his or her mind to the dignity, the solemnity, and responsibility of what they were undertaking. They are the last unbaptized inhabitants of Tanrig, and of their own accord have pressed for Baptism. They number over twenty, and seem very much in earnest, especially the older men and women. It is most gratifying to me, and a matter for which I cannot sufficiently thank God, that just at the end of this era of my missionary life, I should see such zeal and earnestness exhibited by the people among whom I have worked so long, and apparently with so little result. I shall leave behind me here, please God, an entirely Christian village, in profession at least, and I trust in reality also. There are one or two I wanted to leave out, but they seem so anxious to be Baptized, that I leave their future with God and the blessing of His spirit, and accede to their request. We have here now, all the organizations of a Christian community, a good school, an excellent Church, and a zealous congregation. Surely one can labour on steadfast and unmoveable, seeing that one’s labour is not in vain in the Lord. At other stations also, people are crying out for Baptism, and before I leave, please God, I shall admit many into the Fold of Christ’s Flock.

It was too wet to get about during the afternoon, but we had our usual social meal in the school-house, and in due course, Evensong. This was one of the heartiest and most inspiriting services I have ever known here, and the congregation felt the same, the singing, the responses and all, went with a swing and harmony which shewed that the people’s hearts were in it. I gave a discourse on the Gospel for the day, the story of the widow’s son at Nain, and likened them to the young man, and Christ coming and touching the bier and saying stop! to the powers of evil who were carrying them, dead in trespasses and sins, out to their burial. The young man sat up and began to speak, and our first act, when delivered from the wrath to come, should be to sit up and speak and declare God’s praises for all He has done for us in His dear Son our Saviour. We had singing afterwards, and then dispersed for the night. A great many of the congregation lingered outside, to wish me good-night. Thank God for these real days, how different to the old heathen times, when the people were still lying in the darkness and shadow of death. God grant that they may know Him and the power of His resurrection, and be filled with His fulness and grace.

_Monday, October 11th_, was much finer, and the sun shone out in rich splendour. The people at this time of the year are very busy planting their yam gardens, and every day they are at work from morning until night. The men do the toiling part, the women the cooking. They work in parties, and many hands make light work. The harmonium being out of order I stayed to try and mend it. I was interrupted in the midst of my work by visitors from Tasmouri and Tasmate, and retired to my house to talk with them. When they left I finished my job, and was far more successful than ever I dared to hope. The bellows had burst, and the wind escaped in such quantities that it was hard to get any music at all out of the instrument. I could only make a patch up affair of it, but it was so far successful that a volume of sound was emitted such as I have never heard from it before, and the addition to the singing in the evening was very marked. I had intended to have made an excursion during the day, but it was too late when I had finished, and I had to content myself at home. After Evensong I took the Catechumens for a lesson, and afterwards joined my own class in the school previous to the Roll Call. The evening was fine, but blustery and raw, and I fancy the people were tired, for there was quietness soon after school.

_Tuesday, October 12th._--Very rough, squally morning and a terribly windy night. Sometimes I fancied I was going to be blown over altogether in my frail native hut. However, these little tenements stand a great deal, and here I am safe and sound at the beginning of a new day.

After early Morning Prayer we had our usual school, and breakfast followed. I have no refreshment before this meal, and sometimes I feel a little famished, but am generally ready for the breakfast when it comes. It is not a very sumptuous meal at the best of times, plain rice and a cup of coffee, but it does very well, and stops the craving of the appetite as well as anything else. The strange thing is that at home I scarcely ever touch rice, having a positive aversion to it, but here I make my breakfast on it nine mornings out of ten.

After breakfast I had school with a very earnest Candidate for Baptism who comes from Mandurvat, and wished for special instruction. I hope I managed to explain to him any difficulties he has experienced in the nature and meaning of the service. When he was dismissed I wended my way with some of the boys to Ruosi, where I bathed and washed my clothes. I do not know what it was, but when I got home I was quite exhausted, and somehow I don’t feel as strong as I did at the beginning of the season. We had very hearty Evensong, and a nice class with the Catechumens, who, I think, are very much in earnest, especially the older men. There are about twenty in this class, the last remnant of the heathen population. With their Baptism, Tanrig will cease to have any remains of heathenism, and in name at least will be able to call itself Christian. The usual school was held, and the first two classes were engaged in solving the mysteries of simple addition, one of the girls succeeding in doing a six line sum without a fault. This same girl, Emily by name, is rather a creditable production for this out of the world place. She reads well, answers well, and writes well, besides being quite an adept at figures. A couple of years at Norfolk Island would make a very useful woman of her. There are seven others in her class who all are very fair scholars, and take their turn at teaching.

_Wednesday, October 13th._--Very fine morning and very warm. After our morning duties were over there was soon a dead silence over the village, the people all going off to their several occupations in their gardens. I busied myself, and got very hot over a little simple carpentering--but oh! the tools, they were so blunt and so rusty. However, I managed to do fairly well what I wanted to do, viz. to enlarge the Communion table, and generally to give a more Churchy appearance to the East end of our Church. I proposed to myself a bathe after my labours were over, but I was too exhausted, and stayed at home in preference. However, the shades of evening soon stole on, and my little cooks came to get my dinner, which, frugal as it was, I enjoyed with the best of sauce--hunger. The evening was calm and fine, and I sat outside my house and enjoyed myself with a book. In the evening they came to tell me of the death of a poor heathen woman who has lately come here, and has been for years past a confirmed invalid. Poor thing! the women came back in the evening to find her cold and stiff in death, without a soul near her to say a word of comfort or to close her eyes in dying. She was buried in the moonlight, and her memory consigned to oblivion with her body. Her sad story afforded me a fitting text for the Catechumens afterwards, which I trust was not unproductive of seasonable lessons and wholesome and solemn warnings. Our singing school subsequently was very nice, after which everyone seemed glad to turn in for the night.

_Thursday, October 14th._--Fine bright morning, and a most beautiful day with a strong Trade wind blowing. After our morning duties I was left alone, the people being away almost at once to their gardens. They work very hard at this season, and the men do the heaviest part of the labour. At present they are engaged in fence making, usually here with bamboos, and very neatly they make them. It is very hot, fatiguing work for them in the broiling sun, but I suppose habit has so far become second nature with them, that they don’t seem to notice the heat or mind a little extra perspiration. The cool waters of the river always afford a grateful and refreshing anticipation when the work is once over.

I amused myself with making a Cross to surmount the Communion table, and give a little more of a sacred nature to the Chancel of the Church. With my poor tools and limited necessaries at my disposal I flattered myself that I had done fairly well, and I afterwards attempted a picture gallery on the walls of my house, which has attracted all the boys in the village this evening, and they have taken more interest in these pictures than ever I have seen them before display. The launching of a life boat, and the English Bishops have been the chief attractions, and everyone, I think, has counted over the Bishops dozens of times. There being no one here in the afternoon I went alone to the river and enjoyed a refreshing bath. This evening it is blowing heavily, but there is a good moon and it is fine overhead. Instruction to the Catechumens, and the evening school finished a nice day.

_Friday, October 15th._--After our morning duties here and breakfast I started with a party of four for Tasmouri. It had rained a little during the night, and the bush was still wet this morning. The sun, however, shone out in Tropical brilliancy, and travelling was very unpleasant. The hottest time is just after a shower, and to-day proved no exception to the native idea on the subject. I don’t know when I have felt so hot and disinclined for exertion. However, the journey had to be made, and on I went somewhat mechanically. We arrived in due course at a rippling brook which the natives call “Na Marou,” and here we refreshed ourselves with its cooling waters and quaffed away our thirst. We rested, too, awhile, and then shouldering our impedimenta on we trudged again. The dense bush afforded a grateful shade generally, but every now and then we came out into the open glade, and we felt by experience for how much we were indebted to the shelter from the sun’s rays. Our next resting place was “Qaruqatu,” and then we were in a very liquid condition, and could gladly have lain down and given up further exertion for the day, but we were not half-way to our destination yet, and when we had cooled a bit we moved on to the village, where we found the “Uta” natives awaiting our arrival. They had prepared food for us and procured a good supply of coconuts, and we stopped for some time with them. However, the day was hastening on to-night, and we were driven to move on when we would willingly have sat on in idleness and inactivity. We started again for “Vanua garaqa” where the school house is, and there I found my friend and teacher “Takele,” whom I was going to Baptize on Sunday, and with whom I was anxious to have some previous conversation. He is a good man, and a staunch, and “Uta” owes him a great deal for his steadfast and consistent upholding of the Truth, and his fearless and bold protestations against evil. He had also food and coconuts ready for us, and I am afraid I went to sleep for a while, as the boys were refreshing the inner man. However, we were not yet at our journey’s end, and shouldering our traps, on we went again.

After leaving Uta there is a very steep descent, really down the face of the cliff, Tasmouri being on the other side of the island to windward. The road, however, is good, if somewhat precipitous, and my poor long shins ached again before I got to the bottom. Yet we did get to the bottom, and there we found a most lovely natural bathing place, the delight and comfort of which we were not long in testing. One can imagine how refreshing it must inevitably be to get off one’s dripping garments, and get under a cool and delicious shower-bath. I felt much more “fit” when I got on my walking garments again and prepared for another advance towards Tasmouri, which I must say has never seemed so far and the journey towards it so fatiguing. We found Samuel and the Tasmouri people waiting from the village, and of course had food and drink in readiness for us. It was very cool and nice there, and being now near our destination we were not in a great hurry to move. Tasmouri, however, was reached towards evening, but oh! how hot the place is! a change of raiment scarcely mended matters, and I was soon almost as liquid as before. My evening meal made matters worse, and didn’t I long for a little grateful coolness? However, that seems an unknown quantity, and I gave up the idea of discovering it more here than anywhere else. Evensong followed in due course, and afterwards I had the Catechumen class for a short instruction. When these duties were over I was fit for bed, and this is the reason of the shortness and scantiness of my account of this day.

_Saturday, October 16th._--At Tasmouri. Most beautiful morning, but oh! so hot. Within doors it was absolutely unbearable, and I was glad when the people proposed to go to the seaside. The place selected was “Ro[¨n]onawo,” and there it was bearably cool. A “Guardian” supplied me with companionship, and it proved to be so pleasant there that we spent most of the day, the boys bathing, fishing, and generally enjoying life, and I reading and seeking new names for the Baptismal Candidates. The heat again in the evening when we came home was very oppressive, and so great had it been in the house during the day that my candle I found all melted and doubled down in the candlestick.

My dinner did not mend matters, but rather made the heat the hotter. I could not get cool for the life of me, and I had to grin and bear the discomfort. I do not know a much hotter place than Tasmouri and trust I never may, the wonder is how people live there at all. The fact I suppose is that the natives live very little within doors except at night, but during the day are engaged in their gardens, or otherwise enjoying the free and easy life to which they are the heirs by nature. It was intensely hot at Evensong, and oh! how one sighed for relief! An interesting Class with the Catechumens finished a pleasant day, on the whole, in spite of the heat. While we were at Evensong, and even while praying for her, one of the Christian young women, by name “Nesta,” was given a happy issue out of all her afflictions. She has been lying in a state ‘twixt life and death for more than two months, and died this evening. She was one of the first baptized here, and a nice, clever girl she was, and a great favourite. The people asked me to bury her to-night, and I consented. About midnight the grave was finished, and I went with the people to the graveside. A weird, but picturesque scene it was, the moon in full splendour high up in the heavens, the blazing native torches casting a lurid glare upon the quiet figure of the dead, resting in her final bed and wrapped in native mats, the husband seemingly heart-broken, wailing beside the open grave, the women sobbing all around, myself with a lantern and vested in a surplice at the head of the grave, and the people all subdued and solemn around. I read the Burial Service, and when I came to “earth to earth,” “ashes to ashes,” “dust to dust,” Samuel threw on the earth according to custom, and at the end of the service we sang a funeral hymn, which sounded very solemn in the strange stillness of the night. I gave an address to the people, and words never seem to me more appropriate, and apposite than on this occasion. When I had finished my part of the service I came away, and left the grave diggers to their unenviable duty.

_Sunday, October 17th._--Most glorious morning and meltingly hot. We had school before breakfast, and I took a class of adult women. I was quite surprised at their readiness in the Church Catechism, which they said by heart from beginning to end. The Collect also they had got by heart and read with great facility. With the proficiency of the school generally I was amply satisfied, and teaching has evidently not been thrown away on the majority of the scholars. After breakfast we had Prayers, and the discomfort of the heat was not lessened by the hateful buzz and presence of the blue bottles. The service was hearty and comforting, however, and I asked the Catechumens to stay afterwards.

With them I had a nice class, and was satisfied that they were in earnest. One man who has two wives, and has long held out against Baptism, has now given in and put away one of his wives. It is a peculiarly hard case, as he has children by both, and the women have both lived with him for a great number of years. Both offered to go, and gave him his free choice as to the one he chose to retain and which to banish. He chose the elder of the two, his first wife, and the other consequently left, but I could not help being sorry for them all, and at the earnest supplication of the divorced wife I admitted her and her young child to Holy Baptism. It was no inconsiderable pang to the husband to relinquish his second wife, and I could see that the sacrifice both he and she were making had cost them a great deal of suffering, but the rule is hard and fast, and I could not go beyond our invariable practice to admit a man with one wife only to the Rites of our Holy Church.

In the evening I Baptized seventeen people of all sizes, ages, and sexes, and Tasmouri now lays claim to the proud title of being the first entirely Christian village in Maewo. It has not now a single heathen member, and I thank God and take courage from the success which His Word has had here through His Grace, and to Him alone be the honour and glory.

After the Baptism, and at the end of Evensong, I gave an address, and was listened to with marked attention, and I pray God my words may not have been spoken in vain. It was indeed to me an occasion of rejoicing in the Spirit, and I do not think I shall soon forget the reality and heartiness of that service. As I sat here in my house afterwards, all the newly Baptized came to bid me good-night, and the woman and child who were going into new quarters were not among the last or the least grateful for the events of the evening, for their present loss will be their eternal gain, and to have Jesus as Friend and Husband must compensate any one, with a grain of mustard-seed faith in their hearts, for the loss of husband and earthly father. None the less I could not help feeling sorry for the pretty, gentle creature who will begin henceforth a new and different life--this, of course, humanly speaking. I was very tired when the day was over, and everyone seemed glad that resting time had come.

_Monday, October 18th._--Fine, indeed glorious day, but consequently very hot. According to standing custom here, I gave a whole holiday to the school and, we went for our usual picnic. The fatted pig was killed, and we all proceeded to Ro[¨n]onawo to prepare it for dinner. The women did the cooking, the men lending ready and very efficient aid in getting and cutting firewood, &c. A book gave me employment throughout the day, and there was a good deal to interest one going on. The scene was far from being unanimated and devoid of interest, and the day soon hastened on to its termination and natural darkness. The ovens were opened in due course, and disgorged their plentiful contents. After grace the food was distributed, and before long we were wending our way homewards.

After Evensong a request was brought me that the people might have a dance, and of course I consented. There was not a very numerous company of dancers, but they kept up their energy for an hour or two in a manner in which I should be very sorry to imitate them, and the result may be imagined in a place where the smallest movement throws you into a bath of perspiration. This evening appeared those mysterious things like seaworms. They only come about one night in the year, but the people not only know the very night of their appearance, but almost the very hour. When they are expecting them they get ready a peculiar kind of deep basket with a wide mouth, and long cane torches, and when these worms of the sea are observed, the people shovel them by handsful into their baskets, and great quantities are in this way taken. They are of course esteemed a great delicacy, and by cooking and re-cooking, they are kept for a very long time as an accompaniment to their different kinds of food. Their flavour is somewhat peculiar, but by no means disagreeable, and I can quite understand a native esteeming them a delicacy. Their wormy nature, I am afraid, gives me a false sentiment against their niceness. Considerable numbers were secured this evening, but the “haul” was said not to be a very successful one.

_Tuesday, October 19th._--This morning we were early astir and getting ready for our homeward journey. We had Prayers and school and then breakfast, after which we put our traps together and prepared to start. The boat was coming for me, so that our first journey was to Tasmate, and no joke at that, hot as it was. However, we got there finally, and before the boat. It was very warm walking, and I was very liquid again by the time Tasmate was reached. While we were there waiting for the boat a big steamer passed Southwards. She had not the appearance of a man-of-war, but was too large to be down this way for no purpose. She was steaming fast and well, but looked to be rather battered and dilapidated. She appeared to have come from Fiji or from somewhere in that direction. Later on we saw her again up the coast, whither perhaps she may have gone for water. Our row homewards was terrible--the heat was simply awful and pelted down upon us piteously without a breath of wind. However, we got to our boat cove eventually, and hauled up our boat, and then, as night was drawing nigh, we prepared to start at once for Tanrig. We had scarcely got off before we were caught in a heavy thunderstorm, and the rain came down in torrents. The roads, always bad, were now fearful, and having a good deal of water before us to wade through I had taken off my shoes and socks. My feet were very sore when I got to Ruosi, where, in spite of present dripping condition, we all bathed, and we got home like drowned rats, to find that very little rain had fallen here. After tea and Evensong I was ready for bed, being very tired and foot-sore.

_Wednesday, October 20th._--I was very glad of a good excuse for a thoroughly quiet day, and this was given me in a perfect downpour of rain, which continued without cessation until past midday, and I could not possibly get out. It cleared, however, in the evening, and I got out to church and to my Catechumen class, after which we had our usual secular singing. These Wednesday evenings are certainly looked forward to, but they do not satisfy me that much is taught by them. The people are very slow at picking up new things, and except occasionally are far from enthusiastic about the performance, yet I suppose they enjoy it or they would not attend in such numbers. I was perfectly inundated afterwards by people coming to wish me good-night. Shaking hands has become quite an institution here now, and you cannot meet or quit anyone except the process of hand grasping be gone through. However, it is a good step to the right direction and I give so much encouragement to it that my own arm runs the risk often of being wrung off.

_Thursday, October 21st._--Busy here all the morning, and having got very hot and tired with what I was doing, I came to get my towel to go for a bathe, when lo and behold, down came the rain in a perfect torrent, and I had to swallow my disappointment and stay at home. However, I started again at my picture gallery, and got a good deal done. I must try and finish it at some future time. It is a source of immense diversion to not a few, and some of the boys are never tired of coming to find out what the pictures mean. I was not very well all day, and after the Catechumen Class was very glad to retire for the night.

_Friday, October 22nd._--Was very sick all the morning, and went to Ruosi to try and drown my cares in the river, but was only partially successful. Came back appetiteless to an uninviting dinner, and did not feel equal to much during the evening.

_Saturday, October 23rd._--Very busy all day with preparations for to-morrow. Anthony came to make final arrangements about his Candidates. Determined to go to “Naruru” for the ceremony. Was not well all day, and everything seemed a business. Final class with Catechumens.

_Sunday, October 24th._--A very full but an exceptionally joyous day. We had school before breakfast, but that meal followed directly after. Then came Mattins. Then, followed by all the male population of Tanrig, I went to Naruru. The house there being very small I determined to have the Baptism out of doors. I would have gone to the river-side but it was too far. While Anthony and the others were getting ready the place and the Font, I said a few final words to the Candidates, who were already well prepared. Anthony’s wife was among the number, and a fine, intelligent young woman she is. There were nine Candidates in all, and the service was a very solemn and impressive one. It was the first time I had ever Baptized anyone in the open air, but a great deal of solemnity was not lost by it. The whole service went very nicely, and I hope the Candidates were fully alive to the importance and dignity of the occasion. When it was over I said a few words to the Congregation and Baptized, and soon after we hastened home, having another Baptism at Tanrig. During my absence A. P. Huqe had made a most chastely pretty Font, and brightened up the Church with flowers, &c., until it looked quite charming. The Baptism took place in the evening, and seeing that there were as many as twenty-eight Candidates it was not a short service. It passed off very nicely, and I think made a great impression. I preached afterwards, and told them that this would be my final Baptism for some time to come, and urged them all to remember their Baptismal vows and to try and live more and more up to them, by the grace of God. Tanrig is now a Christian village, and the number Baptized here is considerably over a hundred. There are suburbs, however, which are still lying in comparative heathen darkness, and these we shall now have time, please God, to attack. There is much rejoicing here to-day, and a fresh start has again been made. I have Baptized thirty-seven people to-day, and I thank God and take courage.

_Monday, October 25th._--General holiday, and great Christening Feast at Ruosi. All the world turned out from here, and we were joined by many from Naruru. Four large pigs were slaughtered, and a prodigious quantity of yams and taro prepared. It was a most lovely day, and the sunshine overhead seemed to have found its way into every heart, for there was the greatest harmony and good will manifest on all sides. Men and women shared the burden of the day alike, and the result in the evening was a most grand spread of perfectly cooked food, more than sufficient for all the great number present. All shared alike, and the females had great junks of pork as well as the men. Formerly the women ate very little animal food, but now Christianity has broken down the middle wall of partition, and taught them that all are One in Christ. We came home in the evening, and dinnerless I had to go to bed with an attack of ague which lasted me far on into the hours of midnight. I did not go to Prayers, and indeed I don’t know what happened. There was a dance, I believe, but I didn’t hear anything of it.

_Tuesday, October 26th._--Very weak and seedy all day--did not go out anywhere. However, I had lots of little things to do here at home, and I busied myself over them. Visitors from Uta came in the evening. The people told me they wanted to take away one of our women whose husband is just dead, but I refused and told them they had women enough already. They were very frightened I believe, and I don’t care, I trust they were, for I meant what I said. They are quite enough as they are to live and die in heathen darkness, while here the poor woman will have a chance at all events of hearing and living.

_Wednesday, October 27th._--Beautiful day, but I was not particularly well to enjoy it. I was up betimes though, and got through our morning duties before breakfast.

Perhaps this is not a wise plan, but it is more convenient and therefore I submit to it. You certainly get leisure and quiet afterwards, which one would fail to secure previously to Prayers and school. I like to give the people every opportunity of getting away early to their gardens, and therefore, perhaps, I sacrifice myself. Many people could not stand this going without breakfast so long, but it is a meal I was never very hearty at, and the want of which very strangely I feel the least.

Our “Bush” friends brought down some prints for sale this morning, and there has been a tremendous competition for them. There were six yards of Turkey red handkerchief stuff, which were finally bought by a young married lady, “Ann,” for a large pig. The Bushmen still go “clothesless,” and returned Labourers find a ready market here for their linen goods, which they bring home from Queensland or Fiji. Pigs are of much more value to them, for of course they still keep up the old native custom of purchasing rank by means of these animals, while here now they are only looked upon as so much meat. I have been long trying to get a proper hold on these people, but I cannot flatter myself that I have yet succeeded very far. They live a long distance off, and the road is very inaccessible, but I trust in time they may be reached from hence. They are very amiable and very friendly, but they are somewhat terrified at anything new. However, they come here very often, and I don’t think they go away unprofited.

_Thursday, October 28th._--Fine day with strong fresh Trade wind blowing. I was busy all day here at home doing little odds and ends of things preparatory to my anticipated visit from Mrs. Selwyn. The people were all away busy at their gardens, and I was left alone most of the day. I could not find time to get to Ruosi, so I went without my customary dip in the river.

The people were all back in the evening, and their lively chatter and merriment were a pleasing contrast to the ghostly stillness which had reigned throughout the day. We had Prayers late because the people were late with their dinner.

_Friday, October 29th._--Not a very fine day, and threatening for rain. Directly after school the people were away to their gardens, but three or four boys were working for me here. They felt the slight shock of an earthquake, but I did not perceive it. The undivided opinion here is that earthquakes are the precursors of rain, and often indeed I have known it so to result, but it seems rather an extraordinary law to lay down. However, there are abundant signs of a no very distant downpour, and the prophets may have a chance of being right in their present conjecture. We were very busy all day, but towards evening snatched time enough to go to Ruosi for a bathe. The rain kept off well, but there was a sprinkle in the evening, and evident signs of a great deal more before very long. I have felt the heat here very oppressive for the last few days, and by the appearance of the sky we must soon have some dirty weather with thunder.

_Saturday, October 30th._--The storm came on us with a vengeance this morning at daylight, and kept on for a long time. At times the flashes and thunder peals seemed simultaneous, and the crashes were peculiarly heavy. I have never known a more severe storm in the Tropics, and as for the rain it simply poured down in torrents.

I did not get up till late, and Mattins were later than usual. However, being a holiday it did not so much matter. In my house it was as dark as night, and all day it has been very sombre and dull. Rain has kept on continuously all the time, and it has been impossible to move out. The people, however, in spite of wet and dirt are up and about, and do not seem to mind the weather. Many here, indeed, prefer the rain to the sun for making journeys and doing certain works. Rain does not seem to give them cold or ague, and I suppose that custom has become second nature.

I could not get out all day except to my duties, and these wet days at home are somewhat trying, especially when you are anxious to be about. It was somewhat finer in the evening at Prayer time, and we had a good congregation, but it did pour down while we were at service, and this gave us a good excuse for a long singing practice.

_Sunday, October 31st._--Another wet and intensely disagreeable day. However, there were spells of fine weather, and during those we performed our duties. School came first with a full house, the elder classes saying the Collect for the day and the Church Catechism, and answering questions on the former, the juniors reading from school books and large printed sheets. When school was over I was quite prepared for breakfast, and eschewed rice for once in a way for prawns which the boys brought me. Sometime after breakfast we had Mattins, a very nice service and especially well attended. I experienced much distress of mind from the illness of my friend “Virelumlum,” the Opa chief who came over with me. He has been very ill all day with acute inflammation of the lungs, and we have had to keep hot water applications going, off and on, all day. He moans for home, too, and there is no chance of getting him there. While at Opa, A. P. Huqe was so ill, and here now I have my other visitor a patient on my hands. In the evening I was down myself with ague and could not go to Church, and had no dinner.

_Monday, November 1st._--Terribly stormy, rough night, and a most unpleasant day, the disagreeableness of which was not decreased by the continued serious illness of my visitor Virelumlum. All day yesterday and again to-day it has been a continual anxiety and care to me, and I have been dabbling about in the mud and wet dancing attendance upon him. He has quite a serious attack of inflammation of the lungs, and I have had to keep hot flannels going almost continuously, and rack my brains to find out what to give him to keep up his rapidly decreasing strength. In addition to his sickness he has developed a craving for home, and a strong impression that he is going to die here, which with natives sometimes is actually equivalent to mean that they will not recover, and when a native makes up his mind to die, he in most cases does die. There is no remote possibility of getting my friend home in such weather as we are having, and he is killing himself with worry. If the weather were fine I would willingly take him across to Opa in my boat, but that is scarcely possible in a gale of wind and a downpour of rain. On the whole it has been a most anxious and unpleasant day. Being “All Saints’” Day I gave an address in the evening instead of School, and no one, I fancy, was sorry to be indoors out of the cold and wet. I had to paddle off after every one was quietly within doors to feed my patient and make him comfortable for the night.

_Tuesday, November 2nd._--A most terrible night, wherein it blew with almost hurricane violence in the squalls, with a perfect deluge of rain accompanied by heavy thunder and lightning. I was not sorry or ungrateful to be brought safely to the beginning of another day. My first business when I got up, was to trudge off to my patient, whom, thank God, I found better, but all day long since I have had to look after him, for he is no exception to the idiocy of all natives, who when they feel a bit better, rush off and do some extraordinarily foolish thing. It was a terrible day throughout, and I was so fortunate in keeping my man within doors, that this evening he was visibly on the mend, and likely to make a good and I hope a rapid recovery. I read him a most strong lecture this morning about his craving for home, and told him he could not possibly get there in this weather, and that he was better where he was even if he could. I said he never would recover if he went on distressing himself about getting home, and told him that he was killing me too, by continually crying for what he could not possibly obtain. And what a lot of spilt milk I have cried over these last few days in my regret at having brought a big man here at all. But the inutility of weeping is more apparent to me than his crying for home is to him. I can hardly say what I have done to-day either to benefit anyone else or myself. This evening I have turned away from my dinner, leaving it untasted, and I feel that I must go to bed.

_Wednesday, November 3rd._--An attack of ague last night has made me feel weak and good for nothing this morning. However, I had to get up, and the prospect outside was as dismal as ever. Rain and wind and gloominess. My patient, thank God, is most decidedly better, and if he takes care of himself will do very well now. I have had a fire in my house all day, and with Dr. Codrington’s book on the Melanesian languages, have got on very pleasantly. I should like, however, to see a little sunshine, and one has a right to expect it now in the height of summer. I am dreadfully afraid Mrs. Selwyn’s visit to me will be impossible, when the ship arrives the roads will be so impassable. Towards evening it cleared a bit and I was able to move out, but generally speaking, everyone has been kept close prisoner to-day. The people who always seem to me to love paddling about in the wet, expressed a strong disinclination to move from their houses, and in the absence of other occupation or amusement, have been asleep most of the day I fancy. A native’s capacity for sleep is unbounded, and perhaps a fortunate thing for him, but he can wake at any time, day or night, and get up straight away. We had our usual Evensong and singing class, the weather keeping fairer until we had all got indoors again in our several houses, when down came the rain. There is a sweet, lulling, comfortable sound in rain when you are safe indoors, or perchance in bed, and sleep seems to come unwooed. I practice here what I seldom do anywhere else, read in bed, and far on in the stillness of the solemn night, I read on and on with keen enjoyment and a sense of rest, for one gets tired of sitting in a land devoid of easy chairs and sofas. The usual posture of a native is to squat on his heels or else to recline, naturally our high seats are foreign and uncanny to them. I cannot myself squat for any length of time, and at times I sigh for the comfort of a good easy chair.

_Thursday, November 4th._--Very wet, dispiriting morning, and threatening for another stormy day. It cleared off, however, and barring showers we have had a fine day.

A most interesting ceremony took place here to-day called “uli meroana,” (_i.e._ “untieing war.”) The event ought to have come off long ago, but the chief actors in the sad drama which led to its necessity have been somewhat dilatory. Sometime since the natives of “uta” (the inland as distinguished from the shore) attacked a village in our district and killed three people. They were the agressors and the sole actors--the people did nothing but pack up their goods and clear out, some flying in one direction and some in another. The majority took refuge in this part of the island and have never done anything in the way of retaliation, but have always gone armed since and been on the alert, not with the object of revenging their injuries, but from fear of further attack.