Chapter II: Part 2

_23d._--The country here is bare and sterile to a great degree, but there is an improvement with regard to fuel, which is so necessary at this season, in this mountainous country. I believe we are stationary at last. I was kept busy all day writing letters for the soldiers, many of whom very gladly do my washing and mending in return, for this slight service. I had rather at any time write than cook and wash and mend clothes.

_24th._--I felt sick to-day. I took cold from a severe drenching, while on duty as a sentinel last night. A heavy cold rain was falling the whole time. I strove to assist in making our camp as comfortable as possible, and in the evening despatched two letters to Santa Fe, for my beloved friends in Maryland.

_Sunday, 25th._--At day-break this morning, a number of Mexicans came to camp; jabbering to themselves in a great rage about something. At first we could not ascertain the cause of their trouble, there being no interpreter present, and none of the soldiers knowing enough of the Spanish language to comprehend their meaning; soon, however, it was discovered that about sundown last evening, the Captain of our company had caused the embankment of their mill and irrigating pond, to be broken, a short distance above camp on the bank of the river, so as to prevent it from overflowing the bed of his tent. The water of course rushed out with great force, tearing the embankment down and washing the earth away for a considerable distance, stopping their mill and leaving many families destitute of water; all of which serious injuries, the Captain seemed disinclined to repair. This behavior of the Captain met with but little favor from his men. To their honor be it spoken.

_26th._--This morning our Lieutenant went round the camp to get volunteers to repair the broken ditch. All seemed unwilling to do any thing--some had their horses to find, others to cut and haul wood. The men had no idea of laboring gratuitously for the repair of a deed wantonly done by their Captain. I with several others walked four miles up the river, with our axes, for the purpose of getting wood. We crossed the river several times in the wildest and most out-of-the-way places, between high cragged mountains which it was impossible to ascend. We returned to camp with our wagon loaded, though we encountered great difficulty in accomplishing it. We found there was a disagreeable misunderstanding among the officers respecting the embankment. The Captain wished soldiers detailed for its repair, and the Lieutenants thinking it an imposition on the poor fellows to stand in the mud to work such cold weather, without compensation.

* * * * *

_28th._--We are now living in the midst of the greatest abundance of life’s luxuries. As an evidence of our high living, I will transcribe our bill of fare for the week. It is as follows:

Monday.--Bread, beef, (tough as leather,) bean soup.

Tuesday.--Tough beef, bread, and bean soup.

Wednesday.--Bean soup, bread, and tough beef--and so on to the end of the week.

The greatest _harmony_ prevails in camp, especially among the officers, the Captain and first Lieutenant are the greatest _friends_ imaginable, they do every thing in their power for the good of the company. They are the _bravest_ and most _patriotic_ officers in the regiment. In this lovely and fertile valley, encamped on the banks of the Rio Charma, we are enjoying all the _blessings_ of life. We are charmed by the surpassing beauty of the polished Spanish ladies, and living in so much _harmony_ with each other that we almost imagine the “garden of Eden” to have been again raised for our enjoyment; and then, Oh! heavens, what a luxury, amid these joys, to feel the delightful sensations produced by the gentle and graceful movements of a Spanish _louse_ as he journeys over one’s body! The very thought of it makes me poetic, and I cannot resist the temptation of dedicating a line to the memory of moments so exquisite. How appropriate are the words of Moore to such occasions of bliss?

Oft in the stilly night,
Ere slumber’s chains have bound me,
I feel the cursed creatures bite,
As scores are crawling round me.

O not like one who treads alone,
The banquet halls deserted;--
In crowds they crawl despite the groan
Of him whose blood they started.

When I took up my Journal to add a few items, I found the above had been written by some wag, in my absence. He was disposed to ridicule my description of the felicity of which I boasted. Our boys are rather mischievous, and I must confess that I felt rather waggish myself when I made the boast of our possessing Eden-like pleasures. The continuation of my narrative pleased me so well that I consented to let it remain as it was written. Our mischievous feeling and manner of expression is the most innocent way in which we can relieve ourselves, for we privates are suffering many privations while some of our officers refuse to speak to each other. I am glad, however, that our troubles are so merrily turned into ridicule, the best way sometimes to treat them. We are not destitute of sport however--many amusing scenes occur among us, debating societies are formed among the soldiers in which the most absurd questions are dilated upon with a vehemence and mock seriousness truly laughable. A breakfast of coffee without sugar, some very poor beef soup, and onions sliced up with parched corn, made a better meal for us to-day than we have had for some days past. Yesterday I traded off _two needles_ to the Spanish girls for six ears of corn and some onions, it was a trade decidedly profitable for both parties. In company with our first Lieutenant, his brother, William White, Dr. Dunlap, and a number of others, I went up on a high peak of the Rocky Mountains. We had been there but a few minutes when it commenced snowing. We kindled a large fire, and amused ourselves by listening to the reverberations of sound produced by our Lieutenant’s revolver, who fired six rounds. Becoming thirsty, we searched and found water in the crevice of the rock close to the edge of the precipice. It was too far below the surface for us to drink by stooping over, and William White proposed to throw in gravel, in order to raise the water, reminding me of one of Æsop’s fables. We followed his advice and the water was soon forced to rise high enough for our purpose. The snow increasing, we came down and made another fire in a large hollow of the rock, where all but myself sat down to cards. It was an amusement that I did not relish, and I sought my gratification in loosing the rocks and rolling them down the side of the mountain, which is at least a thousand feet above the level of our camp.

_29th._--To-day, Charles Perkins and myself took our guns and proceeded down the river several miles in search of game. We fired at several flocks of wild geese and ducks, but it only scared them further off. We passed several Spanish houses on our return. When we reached the camp we found the soldiers at different employments, some playing cards, and others making articles to sell to the natives. A Mr. Hatfield was engaged in the manufacture of a _grindstone_ to trade to the Spaniards for corn and beans. These, with onions, are the only vegetables they grow.

_30th._--The mountains are covered with snow, and, after raining hard all night, this morning it is clear and cold. We made the best preparations we could to send the wagons back to Santa Fe for provisions, as late last night, our second Lieutenant returned, after an absence of five days, and brought news that we are to take up our winter quarters in this dreadful region. There seems to be very little likelihood of our going south at all. The officers went in search of other quarters to-day.

_31st._--We had a heavy fall of rain last night, which improved into a snow-storm before morning. I slept very uncomfortably, as a high wind from the north had full sweep in the door of our tent. We were inspected at 11 o’clock, and carried through all the evolutions of the drill. After the parade we could scarcely keep warm, though wrapped in our blankets, and crowded around the fire. Yesterday one of our beef cattle died from starvation. The Mexicans came down and took it off to their habitations. We might have made a speculation by selling it but did not think of it.

_Sunday, November 1st._--Several of my mess are going up the mountains to look for their horses. I offered a friend $5 (should I ever again possess that sum) to search for mine. I read aloud in my Testament to some of the boys, while others sat apart, or pitched quoits. At night a Spaniard came in camp with a fiddle, and played a number of tunes which so exhilarated my poor half frozen companions that they united in a dance which they kept up till a late hour.

_2nd._--Some Taos flour, coarsely ground in the little native mills on the Rio Grande, badly baked in the ashes, and some coffee without sugar, now comprise our only sustenance. Between meals, however, we parch some corn, which we now and then procure of the natives in exchange for buttons, needles, or any little matter we can spare. At 9 o’clock, we struck our tents, and marched down the river two miles to a deserted Spanish house nearly in ruins. The inhabitants were murdered by the Navihoe Indians. This is the place where we are to take up our winter quarters. I can scarcely describe this wretched den. The soldiers have looked in and they have become very dissatisfied. They were told by the Captain to erect their tents inside the wall. All the houses in this region having that protection. We could not sleep in the house on account of the offensive odor. The tent was much more comfortable.

_3d._--As soon as our breakfast of beef soup and coffee was over, some of the men were appointed to scrape and clean the house. I with several others was sent to the mountains to cut and haul wood. After walking two miles, we procured a load of green pine, which does not grow here more than half the usual size. On the return, I thought I would take a near cut to our camp alone. I turned into a foot-path, which led me to the top of a high mountain. Here I could see our quarters, though a long distance off. I took a direct course, and soon arrived at camp, where I found our boys writing down a vocabulary of Spanish words. They have become very erudite of late.

_4th._--All this day we did nothing but write down words from the language spoken by the people, who, from their complexion, appear to be a mixture of the Spanish and Indian races. We made a pretty good dictionary among us.

_5th._--This day is very unpleasant. It is raining hard. At 4 o’clock, our first Lieutenant, Mr. White, returned from Santa Fe. He brought bad news. He could get no provisions, except one-fourth rations of flour, and one and a half barrels of mess pork. But notwithstanding all this, our boys are still very lively.

_6th._--We had great labor to-day in procuring fuel sufficient for our present purpose, and the prospect of a long and severe winter before us makes our situation rather unenviable.

_7th._--On short allowance yesterday and to-day, a little bread, (i. e. two pints for six men,) some fried beef, and coffee without sugar.

_Sunday, 8th._--Although the morning was cloudy and cold, I walked with twenty others down to Abique to church. On arriving we went into the priest’s room. He very politely invited us to be seated, and then commenced asking all kinds of questions about the United States. He seemed to take great interest in teaching us the Spanish language. He made us repeat after him, many long and hard words. We sat two hours with him and then went in church, where a large congregation was assembled. In a few minutes our priest made his appearance, dressed in gold lace, and ascended the pulpit, while all present fell on their knees. The music of various instruments now commenced, the priest the meanwhile, drinking sundry glasses of wine. The people remained on their knees till the music ceased, when all retired.

It was noised among the soldiers that a fandango would take place in the evening. Some of us went in to inquire of the priest, who informed us that the fandango was to be at a village some miles further off. In a little while, a Mexican guide was hired to escort us. After walking a mile we came to a river, when this Spanish fellow, very quietly sat down to pull off his shoes, and told all who were in favor of wading the stream to follow his example. Eight of the boys immediately commenced stripping to cross, declaring that nothing should disappoint them from attending a fandango. As I had a bad cold, with some others, who felt no inclination to wet their feet, I returned to our quarters.

_9th._--All this day in the mountains cutting wood.

_10th._--I went with several others to search for lost horses. We had not gone far when to my great joy I found mine, which had not been seen since we left Santa Fe. We heard volleys of musketry in the direction of our camp, and were at a loss to understand the meaning, till on our return, we learned that a dog had been buried with the honors of war. This poor dog had been a great favorite with our Captain and all the company; he was most foolishly shot by a soldier on guard last night. The man was made to dig his grave, and will be detailed on extra duty as a punishment, the Captain being much exasperated. This evening I, with four others took rations for five days, in order to drive the horses down the river to graze. Late at night, we reached a Spanish village, where we stopped. A mile from that place, a fandango was to come off, and the ladies of the place were preparing for the dance. They were nicely equipped in their best finery, and the soldiers were engaged to accompany them. Not being very desirous of attending the fandango, I preferred to remain and try to get some rest, of which I was very much in need. The party was soon prepared, and off they started, leaving me behind to cook supper and arrange matters for their comfort when they should return. I browned the coffee, fried the beef, made the bread, and having all things in readiness, I drank a cup of coffee and laid down to rest on a mattress placed on the floor. As far as the thing I laid on was concerned, I was comfortable enough; the mattress was a luxury; but I could not sleep; the reasons were various. I was lying in a house, when I was accustomed to dwell in tents;--my quarters were divided between myself several donkies and mules and two small children--the odor of the donkies was not the most agreeable, nor their noise very harmonious; the children knew their mother was out and did their best at crying. The woman had gone to the fandango, where I hope she enjoyed better music than that which she left for the lulling of my sensibilities into sweet slumbers.

_11th._--Our soldiers did not return from the fandango till 3 o’clock this morning, and I was appointed to get breakfast while they slept. I had considerable trouble in accomplishing this service, as the girls crowded around the fire, and I had frequently to pass the frying pan over the naked feet of a pretty girl who was sitting near me. In company with a young Spaniard, who was exceedingly agreeable and polite, I went out after breakfast to kill wild geese. We walked a long distance, and returned unsuccessful.

_12th._--I find the family residing here, very agreeable. I was invited, and almost forced to accompany them to a fandango last night (for they do little else but dance.) All on horseback, the married men mounted behind their wives, we started. A little baby in its mother’s arms becoming troublesome, one of our men, who said he was a married man, most gallantly rode up, and offered to carry the little creature. The mother thankfully resigned it to his charge. There was more pleasure in the idea of enjoyment at the fandango than in taking care of a cross child. When we arrived at Abique, an old man invited us to partake of his hospitality;--an invitation we gladly accepted. We went in accordingly, and after all were seated on the floor in the posture of a tailor, a large earthen vessel was placed before us containing pepper sauce and soup; and a few tortillas, (a thin paste made of corn rubbed between flat stones.) The sauce caused my mouth to burn to a blister. The people are very fond of condiments, and become so accustomed to them that what will burn a stranger’s mouth has no effect upon theirs. After all was over, we went across the street to attend the fandango. From the crowd, I should judge it was high in favor with all classes of the community. Some of the performers were dressed in the most fantastic style, and some scarcely dressed at all. The ladies and gentlemen whirled around with a rapidity quite painful to behold, and the music pealed in deafening sounds. I took my seat near a pretty girl, and every time she leaned on my shoulder, which she did pretty often, her beau would shake his head in token of his displeasure, and showing his jealous disposition. I left the place about 10 o’clock, and returned to our quarters.

_13th._--We visited our camp to-day at the Spanish ruins. The Captain and officers were glad to see us, especially as we had good news in relation to the horses. We had them in charge, and exhibited them to our comrades as the trophies of our success. On our return, we killed two wild geese and four rabbits, which we found a great help to our stock of provisions which was then very low.

_14th._--I was left alone with the Spaniards to-day, while our boys were attending to the horses. My Spanish friends are very courteous, but there is little to relieve the monotony of our intercourse, as from my ignorance of the language I am unable to converse with them.

_15th._--This morning we had one of our wild geese stewed for breakfast, which we had without coffee, and almost without bread. After breakfast I started to camp to draw provisions of some kind. When at camp I concluded to remain there.

_16th._--I was told by the Sergeant to-day, that there was no flour to issue. He referred me to the Captain, who directed young Bales and myself to a mill some distance off, where we procured 60_lbs._ of unsifted Taos flour very coarsely prepared. With this, we returned, and in a few minutes nearly the whole was appropriated to the use of the half-starved soldiers. A very small portion of this brown flour fell to our share. This evening we are without food, or nearly so. Martin Glaze, an old veteran, who has seen service, and belongs to my mess, got a few ears of corn and parched it in a pan, with a small piece of pork to make it greasy. When it was done, we all sat around the fire and ate our supper of parched corn greased with fat pork. The weather to-night is extremely cold.

_17th._--Awoke early this morning and found it snowing very hard. At 10 o’clock I went to our first Lieutenant’s quarters. He was engaged in appraising some cattle which are pressed into our service, and for which the natives were to be paid. A bull has just been killed, and the offals are being greedily devoured by our poor fellows. At 11 o’clock to-day our third Corporal died, having been sick with camp fever and inflammation of the brain several weeks. At 3 o’clock his grave was dug and the poor fellow was wrapped in his blanket--and buried without a coffin. To-night there are several of our men sick with the measles, supposed by our Surgeon to have been brought from Santa Fe.

_18th._--The snow four inches deep--clear and very cold--another grave dug to-day for a member of the Livingston company, making five who have died since we have been out here. They are all buried near the mountain, where poor Johnson was laid.

_20th._--The past two days have been employed in procuring wood, which is hard labor; but we do not complain as our fare is improved by the addition of bean soup and coffee.

_21st._--A court martial was held this morning to try our fourth Sergeant, who has said something derogatory to the character of our Orderly. After the court adjourned, we were ordered to form a line. Our first Lieutenant then stood in front and read the proceedings of the court. The decision was that our fourth Sergeant be reduced to the ranks, for slander. It was ordered that if any man, or men should thereafter bring false charges against the officers, he or they, should be sent with a file of soldiers to Santa Fe, and tried at head quarters, &c. The company was then dismissed. Several of my mess concluded to run as candidates for the vacant place. They went among the crowd with tobacco and parched corn, electioneering. I was placed on guard at 9, and had to stand till 11 o’clock.

_Sunday, 22d._--A gloomy Sabbath morning--I felt badly, but concluded to go to church at Abique. As soon as the ceremonies were ended I went in the priest’s room in company with my old friend Capt. Markle and several officers. After sitting awhile, a servant brought in a dish of refreshments, consisting of pies and wine. Placing the glass to my lips I discovered it to be _Taos whiskey_, as strong as alcohol. A piece of the pie, I thought might take away the unpleasant taste, so I crowded my mouth full, and found--alas! it was composed of onions, a dreadful fix indeed, for a hungry man, Taos whiskey and onion pie!--the very thought of the mess makes my mouth burn. When I returned to camp I found nearly every individual busily engaged at cards. Elias Barber, a messmate, was taken sick with the measles. The disease, is now raging among the troops.

_23d._--We had great trouble in procuring fuel to-day. We had to travel far up the mountain for it, and it is exceedingly difficult to cook with it out of doors in the deep snow. It fell to my lot to make the bread, and I had much ado to-night, to make the mass stick together. I felt more than usual fatigue after the parade.

_24th._--Elias Barber is very sick to-day. He spent a wretched night last night in a thin cotton tent. The wind is blowing on him constantly, while the measles are out very thick. I went to the Captain this morning and informed him of the situation of the young man. He told me if I could procure a place in the house, he might be brought in. I therefore went and after making preparations to move him, I was told that no such thing should be done. I then tried to get an extra tent to place over the one we are sleeping in, and even this was denied me. The poor fellow is lying out of doors, exposed to all the inclemency of this cold climate. And last night it was so cold that the water became frozen in our canteens. The Surgeon appears interested, but it is all to no purpose--nothing further is done for the comfort of the sufferer. May the Lord deliver me from the tender mercies of such men!

_25th._--I felt quite unwell all day to-day. I suffered much from a severe attack of diarrhœa. Our lodgings are very uncomfortable. I went down to the Rio Grande to get water, and found it nearly frozen over. A great mortality prevails among the troops who are dying from exposure and disease.

_26th._--I was very much engaged all day, in nursing poor Barber. He is worse to-day, the measles having disappeared from the surface. I sat by him the livelong night and listened to his delirious ravings, and I felt sad to think I had no means of relief. At 4 o’clock this morning the Captain came, and finding him so ill, brought out a tent to cover the one he laid in.

_27th._--Last night, my messmate Philips returned from Santa Fe, with a message from Col. Price to the different Captains, to send on ten men from each company, as an escort for Col. Mitchell, who was about to start for Chihuahua. From thence he is to proceed to open a communication with General Wool. To-day an express arrived from Col. Mitchell for the same purpose. We were hastily paraded to ascertain how many would volunteer to go, when I, with five others of my company, stepped out of the ranks, and had our names enrolled. We were satisfied that we could not render our situation worse, and hoped any change might be for the better. We hastened to the grazing ground, over the mountain, for our horses, which occupied us all day. Mine was gone of course. To prevent delay, I gave my note to a young man for a horse which belonged to a deceased soldier.

_28th._--A full company having been made up, this morning we gathered at our quarters, and were ready at 8 o’clock to take leave of our kind hearted comrades. They bid us “good-bye,” with many expressions of regret, and injunctions to write often. We pursued our journey 35 miles, and put up late in the evening at the house of a rich Spaniard, who accommodated us with an empty room twenty feet square, but it had so small a fireplace that we could not use it for our culinary purposes, so we were forced to do most of our cooking in the open air. It fell to my lot as usual to make the bread, and I kneaded forty pounds of Taos flour in a mass, and baked thirty-six good sized cakes, while two others prepared our camp kettles of coffee, &c.

_Sunday, 29th._--At 4 o’clock we ate our breakfast, and were on the road by day-light. We travelled all day without stopping, and arrived at Santa Fe at 6 o’clock in the evening. We went immediately to the American Hotel where supper was provided for us. Nineteen men sat down to the table, none of whom had enjoyed such a privilege for nearly four months. All were hungry, and it was amusing to see how we tried to eat our landlord out of house and home. After supper we retired to our quarters in a very small room.

_30th._--Word was sent from Col. Mitchell this morning for us to parade before the Governor’s house for inspection. Our horses were also examined, and all being found in good order for the trip, we were dismissed and conducted to our quarters, in the court house; where we drew our rations, viz. thirty pounds of good American flour, with pork enough to last five days.

_December 1st._--Paraded again soon after breakfast, and were told by our Captain, that previously to our departure, we must all march to the sutler’s store, and acknowledge our indebtedness to him, so up we rode in right order and dismounted. We had a peep at our accounts, and I found mine to be $30 75. I had purchased a few articles of clothing on my route, being forced to do so from necessity. I was therefore not surprised at the amount, especially when I read the prices of some the articles, viz. a small cotton handkerchief $1--suspenders $1--flannel shirt $3--tin coffee pot $1 50, &c. &c. Here we bade farewell to our Captains, who had accompanied us to Santa Fe to see us off. Captain Williams shook me cordially by the hand, saying, he had no expectation of seeing me again in this world. Captain Hudson now took charge, and rode with us two miles out of town--here he informed us, we had a dangerous road to travel, but would leave us to the care of Lieutenant Todd for two days, till we were joined by Col. Mitchell and himself. He returned to town, and we came on four miles and stopped at a house, whose master sold us forage for our horses and wood, it being severely cold. Sixty of us occupied two large rooms for the night.

_2d._--We marched 25 miles to a place called San Domingo, and took quarters in a deserted house. This is a considerable place, with a handsome church, which was being illuminated when we arrived. In a little time the bells began to ring, and there was a firing of musketry and considerable commotion at the door of the church. Several of our soldiers were induced to go up and inquire into the meaning of the uproar. We were told that a converted Indian chief had just died, and all this was to prevent him from going down to purgatory. The roll of the drum and firing continued a long time, when the ceremonies commenced in the church, from the door of which we saw many large wax candles burning, but not being permitted to enter we very quietly retired.

_3d._--After travelling six miles we came to an Indian village called San Felippe, and two miles further down the Rio Grande we encamped in the midst of a good pasture for our horses. After supper, our Lieutenant told me I was honored with the appointment of Captain of the watch. In consequence of this distinction, I had to be up nearly all night. It was very cold. We were now comparatively happy, for we had plenty of good flour from the States, with coffee, sugar, &c.

_4th._--We learn that we shall be obliged to stay here till Col. Mitchell comes up with the other company, so we seize the opportunity to have our horses shod. Two blacksmiths are now at work; I have just bought a set of shoes and nails from our sutler for $3.

_5th._--The weather has moderated somewhat, but the face of the country presents nothing inviting at this season of the year. Every thing has a desolate and wintry appearance. There being no food for our horses, we chopped down some limbs of the cotton wood tree for them to eat. We then went to a Mexican village to buy corn. Having no money, I took some tobacco and buttons to trade for the corn. While here, I sold my greasy blanket for a Navihoe one, with a meal for my horse in the bargain. The man with whom I traded was very kind; he set before me some corn, mush and sausages, but being seasoned with onions, I declined eating. He then brought in some corn stalk molasses, which I mixed with water and drank, thanking him for his hospitality. I returned to camp, when I found that Col. Mitchell, and the baggage wagons had arrived. I was officer of the guard to-night, and up till 12 o’clock.

_Sunday, 6th._--Formed in line by our Colonel in the midst of a heavy shower of rain, and marched down the Rio Grande, a long distance. Our course is due south, keeping the river constantly on our right, and ranges of mountains on our left hand. We passed many villages, and at night encamped near one.

_7th._--Rising early this morning to prepare breakfast, I found the snow four inches deep, and still snowing very fast. Marched in right order 15 miles, and after passing several towns situated on the banks of the river, we stopped at night at the large town of Albikirk. Here are garrisoned one hundred and fifty regulars; near whose quarters we encamped in a large room 100 feet by 40. In this place we found a number of soldiers, some engaged in tailoring, some playing cards, and others amusing themselves in various ways.

_8th._--The country through which we passed to-day is thickly dotted over with towns and villages, whose names I cannot remember, but the road is dismal enough, being still among the mountains, where every object the eye rests upon is covered with snow. The cold is very intense. We pitched our tents to-night under the walls of a town. We had six small ears of corn for our horses, and no fodder. I went to the Quarter Master and was informed by him that the Mexicans had refused to sell us any thing. I cut some buttons from a uniform jacket, and with them tried to purchase food for my horse, but I was refused every where. I sat down and made out a requisition, and with several others went to their large stacks, ten feet high, which we ascended, and threw down a large turn for each. We succeeded in coming off with our booty, and in a few minutes, we were in bed. We were not disturbed in conscience in the least, being fully covered by the axiom, “necessity knows no law.”

_9th._--We were called up this morning to lead our horses into ranks, when two guns and a sabre were missing. They had been taken from the tents by the Mexicans. After the line was formed, Col. Mitchell ordered the men who had lost their arms, to march out. He then told them they would be left behind to search the town, assisted by the alcalde, and if they should not find their arms they would have to return to Santa Fe. We then left; marched ten miles and encamped near a village. Our interpreter was sent to procure forage for the horses, but he returned with the news that none could be had. Our Captain told the Sergeant to go up with a file of soldiers and _take_ what was wanting. He formed a line of twenty men, I among them, and marched off with our Orderly at the head, and second Sergeant, with the bags to put the corn in. At the door of the house, we were ordered to halt. The lock was broken, and we entered, filled our sacks and packed them down to the camp. In this adventure I made the acquaintance of a young man by the name of Hepbourn. He was born and raised in Prince George’s County, Md. After supper, we were all ordered up to draw fifteen rounds of cartridges. A strong guard was ordered out to-night.

_10th._--Having orders to march very early, we rose by light and proceeded down the river 18 miles, the country presenting very much the appearance already described. We saw a few vineyards, surrounded by walls. I felt miserably disordered from the cold and loss of rest. I was just about to sit down to supper, which I thought might revive me, when our Orderly came by, requesting the men to form in line immediately, as the Captain wished to read the Articles of War. We stood just one hour and listened to the dry detail. When the reading was concluded, we returned to our tents. After supper, sixteen men were detailed on guard. I stood two hours the first watch, and three hours before day-light. It was extremely cold.

_11th._--The roll was called at day-break, and after parade we continued our march 12 miles and encamped in a town among the mountains. Wood was very scarce, and the severity of the weather increasing.

_12th._--We eat our breakfast at day-light. It consisted of mess pork and bread, half baked by a miserable fire. We went 12 miles to a place where there is a fine supply of wood. Our poor fellows had the satisfaction of having a good fire all night, and it was very necessary, for the weather was tempestuous with cold gusts of wind and snow.

_Sunday, 13th._--At one o’clock this morning I awoke and found myself so cold that I arose and went to the guard-fire to thaw myself. I stood by the fire till day-light. The Captain in his round to visit the guard, stopped at the fire, and I had a pleasant chat with him. He is very clever and condescending. He remained an hour or two, and then woke up the Orderly to have all in readiness for a start. We came over the mountain four miles, where our road intersected the river again, passed a town, and further on encamped near the river. Our interpreter bought a beef from the natives, also a little wood to cook it. The wild geese are very numerous here.

_14th._--The roll was called very early this morning--and as my horse had a sore back, I asked the Captain’s permission to walk behind the wagons. I walked all this day and led my horse. When I came up to the encampment I found that my mess had supper ready. It consisted of a kind of chicken pie, bread and coffee. I relished the supper very much, but by way of desert I received information that I had to stand sentinel. I walked my post two hours and then went to bed; being too cold to sleep, I got up at two o’clock, and went to the guard-fire. The guard said he was very sleepy and would lie down if I would consent to serve while he slept. To this I readily agreed--and he laid down, while I made a large fire, which soon attracted the attention of the other sentinels, and several of them collected around it. We enjoyed each others conversation till the morning dawned.

_15th._--I woke up the Sergeant, who said we had walked our post four hours over the time. I received the compliment, but did not tell him that we had sat by the fire all the time. In his Irish brogue, and with a pipe in his mouth, he proceeded to call the roll. We are to stay here till the 17th.

_16th._--Having secured some beef, I made a large fire to get an early breakfast. Yesterday our Quarter Master pressed a lot of seven very good cattle from the Mexicans. Last night a strong guard of twenty men was stationed around our camp. The weather is still raw and cold. We are yet among the mountains.

_17th._--This morning we reached the _second crossing_ of the Rio Grande. Four miles beyond the crossing, we overtook Col. Doniphan’s command, and encamped near them. Having to walk and lead my horse, I did not come up till all were fixed. I found our boys very angry at a circumstance which they related and made me write down, with a promise to publish it--which promise I now fulfil. While on the march to-day, the Captain ordered a halt, and told the soldiers that he had been requested by the Lieutenants to beg them all not to come near their fire or tents, as it incommoded them greatly. He stated on his own behalf, as well as on behalf of the other officers, that it was quite a nuisance to have the privates lurking about their tents and fires. He said that something might be “hooked” and that the Lieutenant had already lost some saleratus, &c. This was a poser. Our poor fellows could hardly endure it. Some of them were much exasperated. I tried to soothe them, and told them no other harm was meant than a slight intimation that we must keep away at meal times, as a knowledge of their better fare might make us dissatisfied, &c. All passed off better than I expected. We had to go a mile for water, and the thermometer at zero.

_18th._--The situation of our tents was by no means pleasant. There was much complaint about stones and hillocks, lying hard, &c. Breakfast over, I started with the wagons, in company with some others, whose horses’ backs were sore. I felt stupified from the cold and loss of rest, having walked my round five hours last night. We went on 12 miles, which we trudged on foot. At night we cut some branches of the cotton wood for our horses to eat. We were preparing to rest, when our Captain told us, if any man lost his horse he would have to walk back to Santa Fe. He further said, that we had to go through a gloomy region or desert, 85 miles in extent, where no wood or water could be procured. He advised us to go to work and prepare food enough to last three or four days. I made up 30 lbs. of flour and baked eighteen cakes, while the balance was attended to by my mess.

_19th._--We were all busy providing against the perils of our difficult and dangerous march. We shall have to keep close company, as the Navihoe Indians roam this desert in bands. At 11 o’clock we moved off in fine order, and marched 15 miles over the dreary plain. At 8 o’clock at night the Captain ordered a halt. We picked up a few weeds, kindled a little fire, took a cold cut of bread and meat, and laid on the ground to rest, without erecting the tents. A young man having drank too much of the “ardiente,” very unluckily offended one of the officers, and was ordered to be tied to the wagon wheel. He cut a variety of capers while this was being done. His friends soon set him at liberty.

_20th._--The news of a “spring in the desert” was brought by some scouts, who had started out on an exploring expedition. They found the spring in a place full 6 miles from our road. We drove the cattle over a miserably rough path to drink from the spring, which turned out to be a muddy pool. We afterwards marched 15 miles and encamped late at night. We took a slice of bread and meat and laid down to rest on our blankets.

_21st._--The appearance of our Captain very early this morning aroused us. He came with the intelligence that Major Gilpin had sent on an express last night for a reinforcement, as he was expecting an attack every moment from the enemy. In a few minutes we were on the march, and without stopping to take breakfast we travelled 35 miles. We encamped late at night 3 miles from the river, where men and beasts, thirsty and weary, were refreshed. I was afraid my horse would kill himself drinking. With six others, I pressed some oxen from the traders, whom we found encamped here, as the most of our team had given out and were left upon the road.

_22nd._--Passed over 14 miles of broken wretched country to-day, the soil of which produces nothing but a kind of shrub called soap-weed. The inhabitants, it is said, use this weed in washing their clothes. We encamped in a rough place, among stones and hillocks.

_23rd._--I trust the end of this “_jornada_,” as it is called, and which means the “region of death,” is nearly reached, for a march of 12 miles brought us to a village, where we halted to take in provisions bought by our Quarter Master. Proceeding two miles further we came up to Major Gilpin, whom we found encamped on a large sandy plain. We had to go 2 or 3 miles for wood. Our flour was nearly gone, and we had a little beef soup and rice for supper at night. The boys being still hungry, we went to the village and procured some dried fruit and pumpkins, which we sliced up and stewed in our camp kettles. Of this fare we partook heartily, and laid down to sleep in the sand.

_24th._--The first blast of the bugle this morning made us hurry into line. Some of the men being rather tardy, were too late, and they were told by the officer who inspected us, that any man who did not come into rank at the sound of the bugle, would be made to stand guard three days. We broke ranks and ate our breakfast, which consisted of a small piece of bread, made up with pumpkin. The weather is now quite pleasant, and the country, hitherto so uniformly desolate, begins to improve in appearance.

BATTLE OF BRACITO.

_25th._--In the union of our forces we are one thousand strong. Moved as early as usual from the position we have occupied the last three days, and after marching 12 miles, we came to Bracito, and encamped at 10 o’clock. We stripped our horses as usual, and picketed them out; went out to hunt wood to cook our dinners. Some of the men had gone at least a mile from camp when the alarm was given, “_to arms! to arms!_” Looking in the direction pointed out we saw a cloud of dust, as if the whole of Mexico was coming down upon us. Unwilling to throw away our wood, we ran with our turns on our shoulders, when we heard an officer hallooing--“Throw away your wood and bring your horses into camp.” We obeyed the order as quickly as possible. We found our Orderly at his post, directing the men to load their guns and get into line. Every man was at his proper place in a few minutes. By this time the Mexican army was in sight, and had formed in battle array at a distance of a mile from us. Presently an officer came out of their ranks, handsomely mounted and bearing a black flag. Col. Mitchell, accompanied with the interpreter, rode up to meet him on half way ground to inquire his business. He told them he had come to demand the surrender of our entire force, by submitting, he said, our lives would be spared--if we did not, every man would be put to death. Our interpreter cut short his harangue by telling him to “go to h-- and bring on his forces.” In the meantime our company (the Chihuahua Rangers) received orders from head quarters to right about face, and march from the right, where we were somewhat protected by brush, weeds and gopher hills, to the extreme left, in open ground to withstand the charge of the Mexican cavalry; so off we marched in double quick time to our position on the left. Our Captain here told us to reserve our fire till the enemy was in fair rifle distance, and added that he hoped no man in his command would act the coward, but all would do their duty as volunteers and American soldiers. He had scarcely done speaking, when the enemy commenced firing at us, from three to four hundred yards distant. They advanced closer, and continued to advance, pouring in volley after volley, till the sound of bullets over our heads reminded me of a hail storm.--We waited impatiently for the word of command. It was at length given, “fire.” One loud peal of thunder was heard from our Missouri rifles. Consternation and dismay was the result, for, thrown into confusion, the Mexicans commenced obliquing to our left. Another volley, well aimed, caused them to _retreat_ towards our wagons. Here they were met by a round from the wagon company. In the meantime Capt. Reid, at the head of eighteen men, well mounted, pushed after them, chasing them to the mountains. All their provisions, guns, sabres, camp furniture, &c., besides one 10 pound howitzer, fell into our hands. The Mexican loss was estimated at thirty or forty killed and wounded, while we had but two slightly wounded. The Mexicans left their dead on the field.

_26th._--With fifteen prisoners and a few wounded Mexicans, we resumed our march, the main army being flanked on both sides, and came on 16 miles and encamped in a desolate place filled with thorn bushes. Here we prepared our supper, and were about to sit down, when the report of a gun from the picket guard, caused us to extinguish the fires, and form in line as quickly as possible. Presently our Lieutenant rode up and said it was a false alarm. We were ordered to break ranks and get our supper. Again we commenced that unfortunate meal, when the report of a second gun, so loud as to be heard by every one, again made us put the fires down. There was a tremendous clattering of arms, for all formed in line in a few seconds. At this moment Lieut. Cribbons rode up and said that in visiting one of the outer pickets, he was requested to give the countersign by the guard, whose gun was cocked, and he accidentally let the hammer down too heavily, causing it to explode, the load passing close to the Lieutenant’s face. After hearing this statement, we again broke ranks to resume our supper. I stood sentinel, to guard the wagons and piece of artillery taken from the enemy, till 12 o’clock, then went to bed--was awakened again at 3, and stood till 6 o’clock.

_Sunday, 27th._--Col. Doniphan wishing an early start, the roll was called at light and we moved on in the same order as yesterday, with front and rear guard. We had scarcely travelled six miles, when at a distance over the river was seen a dust, as if a body of horsemen were meeting us. We were told to keep cool and obey orders. Continuing our course we met several Mexicans bearing a white flag. Their commander coming up, presented Colonels Doniphan and Mitchell his sabre. They then drank wine and other liquors together, and we resumed our march, crossed the Rio Grande, and encamped in the town of El Paso del Norte about night-fall. This is the noted pass between Old and New Mexico. The town contains about seven or eight thousand inhabitants, and is built along the margin of the river, several miles in length. The environs are cultivated to some extent, and the usual varieties of fruit grow here in abundance. The river is compressed in many places to a very small compass, by the high and precipitous mountains, through which it winds its way.

_28th._--Established our quarters a mile from the city, where there is a large coral or enclosure, in which to keep our horses. Throughout the day a variety of fruit was brought to camp by the natives, and readily bought up by the soldiers. The wind was high, and we were nearly blinded by clouds of dust, which being mixed with isinglass is very hurtful to the eyes.

_29th._--To-day Col. Doniphan, while searching the town, found two pieces of cannon, and after breaking several locks, a good deal of ammunition was discovered. We all paraded and were carried through the regular drill.

_January 1st, 1847._--The last two days being quite cold, with high winds, we kept in camp. After the usual parade to-day, Lieutenant Todd went to town about 10 o’clock in company with several of our men, but they returned in a short time at full speed, hallooing with all their might for us to get our horses quickly, and saddle up, for the Mexicans were coming on us. In a little while we were ready and marched over the river to join the other regiment, and prepared for battle. When we arrived at the ground, we were formed by Col. Doniphan, who despatched Col. Mitchell with twelve men to reconnoitre the enemy, who were reported to be in sight. In the course of an hour, they returned and said it was a false alarm. We then marched to the public square, and informed by our Captain that arrangements were made to keep us in town, and that our camp equipage must be sent for. One out of each mess was directed to go with the wagons for that purpose. We were well supplied with fuel at night, and our quarters were quite comfortable.

_2nd._--Nothing of importance transpired to-day. The roll was called, and we paraded twice, morning and evening.

_Sunday, 3rd._--The usual duties being over, and a high wind prevailing, we did not go to church. Hearing that a sick horse was in the coral I went over to see, and found it was my mare. I brought her out to have her bled and physicked. I went to get assistance, and when I returned with a friend I found she had escaped; searched the town three hours without finding her.

_4th._--Renewed my efforts to recover my lost horse; walked till three o’clock, when I found her in the centre of a lot about two miles from town--dead. I hastened to Col. Mitchell and told him I was on foot, as my mare had lost breath and was laid up to dry. He advised me to look about and ascertain if I could suit myself. If I succeeded I was to call on him again in the morning.