Chapter III: Part 3

_5th._--Our Orderly Sergeant in reading over the names of those to be placed on mounted guard, cried out mine. Accordingly, I with three others marched down to the public square, where we paraded, and dinner, or rather supper, being over, we were placed as sentinels till three o’clock in the morning. I then went to the guard-fire, spread down my blanket and slept till day-light.

_6th._--To-day we were allowed two-third rations of coarse Taos flour, some coffee without sugar, and poor mutton. We sometimes got a few peaches from the inhabitants in exchange for tobacco, buttons, &c.

_7th._--Finding our flour nearly gone I went out and bought a baked pumpkin to mix with it; saw much fruit exhibited for sale, but had no money to buy any. Our scouting party which had been sent out a few days ago, returned this evening, bringing three prisoners, a priest among them. They were captured 12 miles down, on their way to Chihuahua, with papers containing information of our movements to the Mexican army in that quarter. They were placed under strict surveillance.

_Sunday, 10th._--I went to church with a number of others, and witnessed all the ceremonies, and manœuvres of this singular people. The church is large, and the handsomest and best built house in the place. I saw the representation of Christ in the sepulchre, with various other images in and near the altar. On our return we found multitudes in the open street playing cards--sorry to say, some were American soldiers.

_13th._--Our time begins to hang heavily. The ordinary duties of the day are soon accomplished, and no novelty to amuse or excite, the soldiers become restless and are ready for any excess. Our living consists of poor mutton, the miserable Taos flour and a little coffee. Some complain and others “hook” what they can to improve their fare.

_14th._--I was taken last night with a violent headache and pain in the bowels. My diarrhœa having become much worse I got up and went to the Surgeon, who gave me 15 grs. calomel, 10 do. jalap, 5 do. rhubarb and 2 do. tartar, all mixed up together in a dose. I took this monstrous compound and sat by the guard-fire till morning, I then laid on my blanket and slept till 3 o’clock in the evening. Needing some refreshment, I tried my mess, but they had nothing I could relish; I went to Sergeant Edwards and he gave me a lump of sugar to sweeten my coffee. I tried in vain to borrow a picayune to purchase some molasses. At length I applied to a messmate who had come to me a few days after my horse had died, bringing a mule, and saying if I would consent to let him draw the rations of my horse I should have the use of this mule. Yesterday I understood he had sent his mule away to graze, and was _selling my corn_. When I presented my petition, he turned his back as a refusal, and went down among the gamblers and lost every cent.

_15th._--Feeling disordered and ill, I applied early to our Surgeon, who gave me a small lump of sugar, charging me to take particular care of the article, as it was only intended for the _sick_. He felt my pulse and made me swallow a large dose of salts and tartar; I then went to my blanket.

_16th._--I awoke this morning with a high fever and headache. The Surgeon gave me a large pill, and I was placed in the hospital, under the particular care of a doctor, whose name I could not learn, but who said he was from Philadelphia, and could out-practice any man in the regiment. Wishing some coffee, he very _politely_ took a pinch of sugar between his thumb and finger to sweeten it for me, talking the while of “his superior skill,” &c.

_17th._--Still in the hospital, but feeling better, I applied to the Quarter Master, who gave me four pints of American flour; I baked a small cake to eat with my coffee. At night I spread my blanket in the tent, and slept with my mess.

_18th._--At the sound of the reveille I arose and strolled over the graveyard, where the remains of young Leland were interred yesterday. This young man died of the fever prevailing among the troops, and his grave is close to the wall, fronting an old church in ruins. Piles of bones lay around--in the centre of some of the hills were erected wooden crosses.

_21st._--Since Tuesday last I have been ill in the hospital, with high fever and headache--bed hard and uncomfortable, consequently little sleep or rest. The doctor, in his round, asked me why I was not out at the roll-call this morning, as my name was erased, by his direction, from the sick list. He said there was nothing the matter with me, and he would give me no more medicine. He charged me with being home-sick, &c. &c., with many other _tender_ and _endearing_ epithets. Weak and quite unwell, I left the hospital and found my way to Col. Doniphan’s quarters, I consulted Dr. Morton, who, with expressions of sympathy, gave me the necessary restoratives. I had symptoms of jaundice, with very sore eyes.

_26th._--I was somewhat recovered from my illness, through the humane treatment of Dr. Morton, but I still suffered considerably from my eyes. I felt much regret that I was prevented from joining Capt. Hudson, who took our company on a scout, and will be gone several days. I begin to feel weary of our detention here, occasioned by the non-arrival of Capt. Weightman with the artillery from Santa Fe. Col. Doniphan is hourly expecting this reinforcement.

_27th._--Last evening a fellow was caught by our outer picket guard, who could give no satisfactory account of himself, and told so many contradictory tales, that our Colonel sent him to the guard-house. At ten o’clock our company returned from the scouting expedition; they went down to the fort, 25 miles off, and found it was deserted. They think it very likely we shall have no fighting to do at Chihuahua.

_29th._--While on guard to-day over the prisoners taken at the battle of Bracito, I thought I would write in my journal, I searched my belt for it in vain. It was gone!--taken out probably by some mischievous soldier in the tent. In this book I had faithfully kept an account of every thing _interesting to myself_ at least, since the day I left Carroll County, Missouri. Having another blank book I commenced writing again, but felt provoked at my loss.

_30th._--This morning, being relieved from the duty of sentinel, I went immediately to Capt. Hudson and stated the loss of my journal. He asked me a number of questions in relation to it, and appeared pleased at so unusual an undertaking in a private. He went forward and told the soldiers that Maryland’s book must be restored or every man in his command should be searched.

_31st._--The impatience of our boys for the arrival of the artillery has induced several to go out to meet it. This evening some of them returned, and said it was not more than 30 miles off. To-day my book was found on the floor of the tent. The robber was no doubt alarmed by the Captain’s order, and dropped it in the most convenient place.

_February 1st._--We paraded early, and about 12 o’clock several rounds from our artillery-men, just across the Rio Grande, announced the arrival of Capt. Weightman from Santa Fe, with four six pounders and two twelve pound howitzers. They marched in town in right order; our men firing the salute from our piece of captured cannon just as they reached the public square. This company is an important acquisition to our small force.

_3d._--Early orders were received that Lieut. Col. Mitchell, at the head of the Chihuahua Rangers, would move down to the fort to-day. Every thing being in readiness we came on in double file, and arrived at sunset at a pretty little village. Our provision wagons being delayed on the road, every thing like food in this small place was had in requisition by the orders of the Colonel, and we made our supper on pies, cheese, bread, &c.

_4th._--This morning we were told to saddle up and hasten forward to overtake the traders, who had disobeyed orders in preceding us; we were ordered to bring them back. In obedience to the order we started and travelled 13 miles. On the way we saw several Mexicans, who endeavored to elude our observation. Our first and second Lieutenants wishing to know who they were, and on what errand bent, gave chase. After a run of two miles at full speed, they were overtaken and searched. One was the alcalde from the town where we staid last night. We halted late in the evening on the road, where we met a Mexican fully armed, gun, sabre, &c. He was also stopped and minutely examined, but no papers being found on his person, he was suffered to pass.

_5th._--Marched on several miles, overtook and encamped with the traders, who had formed their wagons in a pen or coral, tried to refresh ourselves on a supper of black bread, poor beef, and sassafras tea, cooked over a fire of thorn bushes. The traders sell the bark of the sassafras at $1 per pound. A small cup of the decoction cost 25 cents to-night.

_6th._--The ground was so uneven we did not erect our tents, but spread our blankets and went to bed; the cold prevented any thing like refreshing sleep. We arrived late at our former encampment, and found Col. Mitchell had returned from El Paso, whither he had gone to see Col. Doniphan. He brought news, which was currently reported there, viz. that Gen. Taylor had been overpowered at San Louis Potosi by the Mexicans, and was imprisoned, with 4000 regulars. Of course this was a Mexican story, told no doubt for effect--and it had its effect upon our boys, for it made us feel as if we could fight like lions against the treacherous foe. We waited at this place for Col. Doniphan, who was making every preparation for our dangerous trip. I made for my own use to-day a pair of wooden spurs.

_7th._--This morning after roll-call and breakfast, we fed our horses and mules, and tried to rest and amuse ourselves. At supper I made some pancakes, without milk or eggs, unfortunately I put rather too much _salt_ in my batter. Fifteen men were sent down the river on a scouting expedition to-night. My name was called to be on guard, so I gathered up my blanket and went into the line with the rest. I was placed in first relief, near the river. I walked two hours, then went to bed at 12 o’clock by the guard-fire; I was awakened by the Corporal at three, and stood till morning.

_8th._--Prepared my clothes by washing and mending, for our departure. Boiled some beans and beef for my mess. The weather was very disagreeable, and we all felt weary of our delay.

_9th._--While busily engaged fixing up to-day, Col. Doniphan came on with the artillery and encamped near us. All is now bustle and excitement, as it is said we shall start in the morning.

_10th._--Col. Doniphan has concluded to stay here to-day with the army, as it is very cold and cloudy. Our boys are making desperate efforts to amuse themselves. Among other things, our sutler is here with his establishment, and whiskey is selling at 75 cents per pint. With some honorable exceptions, the scene among officers and men may be much “better imagined than described.”

_11th._--The whole of Col. Doniphan’s regiment, including the Chihuahua Rangers, started this morning for the South to join Gen. Wool. We marched in right order 12 miles, and encamped on the bank of the river.

_12th._--The wagons not coming in last night, some uneasiness was expressed by our Commander, when, with fifteen others, I returned to where we encamped the night before, and found the train just about to move on. We passed a caravan, who told us they had lost the last night 250 mules and 50 yoke of oxen, driven off by the Indians. We came to our camp and found cooking to be the order of the day. We are about entering another jornada, and provisions for four days must be packed.

_13th._--Detained here to have all in complete readiness. The Indians were at their thievish work again. Last night they drove off some cattle and mules belonging to the traders. The skill and daring evinced by these bands of savages exceed belief. They follow the army, and are always prowling around our camp at night.

_Sunday, 14th._--Although on mounted guard nearly all night, I made all the haste I could to eat an early breakfast and saddle up. I was among the first in the ranks. Here we were told that the burial of two soldiers, who expired last night, would only detain us a few minutes longer. The mournful ceremony ended, we started at 8 o’clock; came on the jornada five miles, and halted to feed our horses and mules. I was in the rear guard behind the prisoners all day--travelled a long and wearisome journey through the sand until 8 o’clock at night. I ate a small piece of bread and meat, and spread my blanket at the guard-fire, where I slept till four. I was awakened by the officer of the watch and stood till six. I was at last relieved by the sound of the tattoo.

_15th._--12 miles further on we stopped to eat breakfast, which was a cold cut. We again moved on, and came 20 miles through this jornada and encamped late in the night. No water was as yet to be seen. Our Sergeant measured to each man a half pint. One man sold his half pint for 50 cents.

_16th._--We made an early start, and after marching 15 miles, came to some puddles of dirty water. Our horses and mules rushed in and drank all they could get. Ascending the hill before us a spring was discovered, but the water was muddy and brackish. At night had a slight shower of rain, with lightning and thunder.

_17th._--On awaking, the first thing I heard was that a man in our company was dead. The poor fellow had left a wife and family in Missouri to serve his country. He was taken sick at El Paso, with the measles, and had come thus far to die. We followed his remains to the grave, where our Captain stood forth and made an impressive speech. He stated that “this was the third time he had been called, on occasions like the present, to perform the mournful duty to men in his command, and that it was wisdom for each and all to prepare for the worst,” &c. The usual rounds were fired, and we covered poor Tolly over with soap-weed, and filled up the grave. After trampling the dirt and leveling the ground, we marched off in right order to this spot, where we shall rest to-day.

_18th._--Loaned my mule to a soldier who had lost his horse, to enable him to go in search. I was rewarded for this favor, by being compelled to stay behind my company several hours, till he returned with his horse. We pursued our journey two miles, and overtook the command at a Hot Spring, which was discovered on the top of a small eminence. It boiled up very curiously in the centre, covering the surface with bubbles. The temperature about 100 degrees. The water is scarcely fit to drink, having a very disagreeable taste, nevertheless, the men filled their canteens, saying they would drink it when it got cold enough. The country still presents a barren appearance, the soil sterile; the surface rocky and mountainous. We marched 14 miles, and about sunset, encamped close to a small stream, which supplied a few poor villagers with water. The people busied themselves in preparing for us, what they could, viz. a little muskeet brush to cook with, and corn for our cattle. In crossing this jornada, the teamsters were obliged to throw away 5000 pounds flour, and leave several wagons behind--the mules being unable to proceed.

_19th._--After a journey of such length over uneven ground, the fatigue of the army induced our Commander to remain in camp to-day. About two o’clock the wind began to rise, and increased in violence till the tents were leveled to the ground. We tried to cook by digging pits in which to place the fire. The sand blowing in clouds, covered our food; making it gritty and unpleasant to eat. As night came on, a heavy storm of wind stripped our wagons of their covers. Quite unsheltered, we had to do the best we could, and that was bad enough. We laid down, as we had often done before, on our blankets. We slept uncomfortably on hillocks and tufts of grass.

_20th._--The wind having abated, we were all in line at an early hour--came nine miles through this ranch, to the mouth of another jornada. Here the same scene of desolation is presented. No cultivation to be seen any where, nor scarcely any natural vegetable production except the thorn and muskeet brush. The days are warm, and the nights very cold, in this region.

_21st._--Marched ten miles out to the Hot Springs, which are situated in a ranch, and encamped. The army will here halt a day or two. The same arrangements are to be made as before. While cooking my meat and bread, I was informed by the Orderly, that with 18 others, I was appointed to go before the command several miles. Hastily despatching the meal, we mounted and rode out a long distance, where we had to stand all night. We made a small fire of brush weed on the road side.

_22d._--I was relieved from duty early this morning by the next detail. Feeling much disordered from loss of rest and fatigue. I was greatly obliged to a messmate who very thoughtfully brought me some water and a piece of bread for my breakfast. The army appearing--we went into line by sections of four, and marched 17 miles where we encamped at a place where the men had water; but none could be spared to the poor horses and mules. After eating some bread, we laid down on the ground and went to sleep.

_23d._--Without waiting for refreshment of any kind, we came on to-day eight miles to a pond, where we watered our horses and mules--we stopped for the poor animals to graze awhile and then proceeded three miles, when we halted for the night at a stream of water. Several antelopes were killed to-day. After the tents were fixed up, we boiled some of the flesh, which made fine eating; the repast was seasoned with a good appetite; a fast of nearly forty-eight hours, had made us hungry enough.

_24th._--In conversation with my Captain--I expressed a wish to go up a neighboring mountain, as I understood a large Tagoon could be seen from its summit. He told me to go and make all the observations I could. Having no time to lose, I commenced its ascent, by climbing over large rocks, in which were formed several immense caves--some of them I thought were well fitted to be the resort of robbers. At length I found myself on the top, and set down to write. At the distance of three miles a lake of considerable extent is seen, reposing in the bosom of a prairie, bounded by the horizon. To the left a continuous range of mountains loom up, whose bare and rugged tops present to the mind the idea of coldness and desolation. The whole face of the country is destitute of wood, and verdure, except a species of brush or thorn bushes. Looking towards our camp, I beheld a long line of wagons stretching along the road as far as the sight could reach. They were all in motion, and the sight made me hasten down the mountain at a brisk pace. It was our army preparing for a start and I did not wish to be left “solitary and alone,” in that rocky region. In a few minutes we took up the line of march--came 12 miles and encamped at sunset. We saw Mexican spies at a distance. The picket guard came in and reported, that 10,000 Mexicans were at a lake some miles off, ready to give us battle.

_25th._--The sound of the reveille started every man to his post by light. We moved on eight miles to the lake, and watered our horses and mules. We saw nothing of the Mexicans. The country begins to improve as we leave the jornada, especially on the margin of these lakes or ponds, the water of which is brackish. Here prairie grass grows with some luxuriance. Kindling a fire, the soldiers commenced baking bread, made from the wretched native flour, now our only fare. A high wind prevailing--sparks were carried out, which set the dry brush and weeds in aflame. The Chihuahua Rangers had orders to subdue the fire, and we commenced threshing it out with our blankets, but the wind increasing we found it useless labor. The flames continued to increase in spite of us. The whole command was put in action with their horses, beating a track, to stop the progress of the fire. Unfortunately for us, the fire caught the grass on the other side of the track, and the wind blowing tremendously, the fire was carried in almost every direction. We then encamped on the burnt ground, off of which the grass had been burnt, and picketing our horses on the left of the road in the prairie, we laid down to rest. In a few hours we were awakened to bring our horses in, for the whole prairie was on fire. Coming out of my tent, a sight appeared of such magnificence as had never before met my eyes. It was an opposite mountain on fire, and the whole prairie, as far as the eye could reach, in flames. A strange glare tinged the clouds, and all surrounding objects, and presented a scene which was fearfully grand. It consumed nearly all the grass in the country 15 miles towards Chihuahua.

_26th._--We continued winding through the mountain passes and plains 16 miles. Our advance found a coral to-day, in which were 50 sheep and 15 cattle, driven in from the surrounding neighborhood. They were immediately butchered for the command, the soldiers being nearly exhausted for want of food. This was a dreadful day for our march. The wind was so high that we could scarcely see a hundred yards ahead.

_27th._--The artillery and wagons were kept in front all day, the whole army being formed in two lines in the rear. We marched in right order 8 miles, and encamped on the margin of a lake. Here we shall halt till to-morrow. Scouts were sent out in every direction. I was busily engaged all the evening writing for our boys, who believe themselves to be on the eve of some engagement with the enemy. Saw several of our men come in, leading a horse--soon learned that spies being seen by our advance, Capt. Skillman of the traders’ company, and Capt. Parsons of the E company from Cole County, with others gave chase and overtook one. The fellow finding he was likely to become a prisoner, leaped off, and fled up the mountain leaving his horse and all his rigging behind. He was elegantly mounted. Col. Mitchell has just informed us that a battle will be fought to-morrow.

_Sunday, 28th._--At sunrise this morning, we took up our line of march, having learned from our spies that the enemy in great numbers, had fortified the pass of the river Sacramento, about 15 miles off. Our train consisting of 315 traders’ wagons, and our Commissary and company wagons, in all about 400, were formed into four columns, so as to shorten our lines. The whole command marched in right order between the columns, thus concealing our force from the enemy. When we arrived within three miles of their entrenchments, Col. Doniphan made a reconnoisance of their position, and examined the arrangement of their forces. This was easily done, as our road led through an open prairie valley between the high mountains. The pass of the Sacramento is formed by a point of the mountains on our right, their left extending into the valley, so as to narrow the valley about one and a half miles. On our left was a deep, dry channel of a creek, and between these points, the plain rises abruptly about 50 or 60 feet. The road passes down the centre of the valley, and in the distance we had a full view of the Mexican army. On the point of the mountain, they had a battery of four guns, so elevated as to sweep the plain. On the left, there was another battery commanding the road, with six pounders and rampart pieces, mounted on carriages. Their cavalry was drawn up in front of their redoubts, in the interval of four deep. When we had arrived near their entrenchments, our columns suddenly diverged to the right, so as to gain the elevation, which the enemy endeavored to prevent by moving forward with four pieces of cannon and 1000 cavalry. But our movements were so rapid, that we not only gained the eminence, but were formed in order for their reception. Our company (Capt. Hudson’s) now dismounted, and every eighth man was detailed, to hold horses and mules. It fell to my lot to hold eight mules. The action now commenced by a brisk fire from our cannons, doing considerable execution at the distance of twelve hundred yards, killing fifteen of the enemy, and disabling one of their guns. Our fire was briskly returned from 14 pieces of artillery, sending ragged balls, and heavy copper ore. But being badly aimed they struck the ground about forty or fifty yards before us, and rebounding passed over our heads without harm, except slightly wounding two men, and killing several horses and mules in the rear. Our guns were so well aimed as to compel the enemy to fall behind the breastworks. We resumed our march in our former order, diverging as much as possible to the right, to avoid a heavy battery, and their strongest redoubts, which were on our left, near the common road. After marching as far as we thought it prudent, without coming in range of their heavy battery, Capt. Weightman of the artillery, was ordered to charge it with two 12 lb. howitzers, to be supported by the cavalry, under Captains Reid, Parsons and Hudson. We then remounted and charged the battery from right to left, with a brisk and deadly fire from our rifles. We then advanced to the very brink of their redoubts, and drove them out with our sabres. The enemy now fell back on their centre battery, where they made a desperate rally, and gave us a shower of balls and copper ore, which whizzed over our heads without doing us any injury except wounding several men and killing a few mules and horses. Major Clarke was ordered to commence a heavy fire upon this battery, which being well directed, together with the rapid advance of our columns, put them to flight over the mountains in utter confusion, leaving all their cannons, and the ground strewed with their dead and wounded. Thus ended the battle of Sacramento, which commenced about three o’clock, and ended about sunset. The enemy numbered 4220 rank and file, and lost 300 killed 500 wounded, beside 40 prisoners. The American force consisted of 924 effective men, 1 killed, 11 wounded. Our success is to be attributed entirely to the superior skill of our commander. Had he not taken advantage of position, in keeping out of range of redoubts and batteries, we should all have shared a common fate, as the black piratical flag was captured, together with a wagon load of that formidable weapon, the lariat, which was intended to tie us all to our saddles in case of a defeat. The Mexicans lost ten pieces of artillery, varying from five to ten lbs. and seven one lb. culverines. One of the cannon is very valuable, being composed of silver and brass melted together. They also lost all their baggage, ammunition, &c., and provisions enough to last us three months were found in their wagons, together with $4000 in specie. It was gratifying to see the soldiers shaking hands with their officers after the engagement and tendering their congratulations to their commander for his skill and bravery displayed on this memorable occasion. The Surgeons are now busily engaged in administering relief to the wounded Mexicans, and it is a sight to see the pile of legs and arms that have been amputated. The cries and groans of the poor fellows, are distressing in the extreme. It is a fact, worthy of note, that the atmosphere here in this mountainous region is so perfectly pure and clear that a cannon shot can be seen coming, when it is a considerable distance off, by leaving a blue streak in the air. Many a soldier saved his life in the battle by dodging the balls as they came forward. When a flash would be seen from the enemy’s battery, you could hear the soldiers cry out--“watch the ball boys!--here comes a ball boys,” and they invariably avoided them, or the slaughter must have been very great. I saw a ball coming in the direction where I was, when immediately falling off my mule, it passed just over my saddle without injury. Our rapid movements seemed to astonish the enemy. Our four pieces of flying artillery, discharging five times in a minute, volleys of grape and canister, with chain shots, would rake the enemy’s redoubts and cut roads through their lines, while our 12 lb. howitzers throwing a constant shower of bombs into the middle of their entrenchments, and the unerring aim of our Mississippi rifles, acting in concert; cast terror and dismay among the cowardly and unprincipled foe. Our men acted nobly, and in the hand to hand fight in the redoubts they fought to desperation. Lieutenant Sprawl, our 2d Lieutenant, a man over six feet high with bared arms, and without his hat, his longhair and beard streaming in the wind, with sword in hand, was charging the enemy at every point, when a ball struck his splendid charger, and he fell. But seizing his carbine he kept up with us on foot. Another of our men, being unhorsed, and fighting near me, was attacked by a Mexican who was about to lance him, and the poor fellow’s gun being discharged, he picked up a rock, and throwing it, struck his enemy on the head, which felled him to the earth, when he knocked his brains out with the butt of his gun. These were but common occurrences in that hard contested fight, where we had to contend with nearly five to one.

_March 1st._--After spending a comfortable night, feasting on the good things of our enemy, and making our prisoners bury the dead, we started with the remains of Major Owings, and after marching four miles encamped. My mule having received a wound in the loins yesterday, cannot be found this morning, so I borrowed one of the Commissary.

_2d._--Placed on mounted guard to precede the army, whose entrance in the city will take place to-day. Came ten miles; saw the spire of the Cathedral towering in the distance, with peculiar feelings of delight. A merrier group could scarcely be pictured than our worthy Col. Mitchell and his escort. We entered the beautiful city of Chihuahua about 12 o’clock, and proceeded immediately to the plaza or public square. The inhabitants are polite, and manifest in various ways the utmost complaisance, and regard to our soldiery. Of course we see the fairest specimens of the Mexican character here, and afford us evidences of superior intelligence, comfort and industry. While the soldiers were scattered in various directions, seeking refreshments, I took a walk alone, and seated myself in a quiet nook, fronting the Cathedral. It is an imposing structure of white marble. It was about fifty years in building--the production of a gold mine, and cost _three million dollars_. I felt too much fatigued to write a long description of even a beautiful church, although, had it been otherwise, such employment would have been pleasant to me. The tones of the bell are grand. It strikes the hour, and can be heard at a great distance. At sundown Col. Doniphan arrived in town with the rest of the command, all in fine order. The band was playing Washington’s March--just as we reached the public square, the tune was changed to Yankee Doodle, when there was a general huzza. We then marched through the town and took up our quarters on the outskirts. I was placed on picket guard and had to be up all night--first to watch the prisoners, and then to walk my post three hours.

_3d._--All is now tranquil. The funeral of Major Owings took place to-day. Every thing was conducted with the utmost decency and order.

_4th._--This morning I sallied forth for a ramble. I went through the thickest parts of the city, which I should judge contained about 40,000 inhabitants. The streets cross at right angles, and the houses are mostly built of the usual sun-dried brick, in Mexican style, with flat roofs, and close barred windows, as if intended for defence against street assaults, or rival factions. I was, afterwards, introduced to some senoras, and drank some coffee with them--they using the _ardiente_, instead of cream in theirs.

_5th._--Passing near the public square I encountered Col. Mitchell, with several officers on horseback, before a handsome building. The Colonel was earnestly engaged in conversation with a man, who, it appeared was an Englishman. I soon learned that our Colonel wished to search the building, but the English gentleman said he should not. I was called on, with several others who were standing near to form ranks, and go at once and arm ourselves. We ran to our quarters, and soon returned well equipped. I had not been in the line more than a minute, when I saw my entire company, the Chihuahua Rangers, come up. I, of course, left my position and with them paraded before the house. The Englishman being still very stubborn and refusing to give up the keys, the Colonel ordered two pieces of artillery to be brought down immediately and placed before the door. Turning to look for the man, I found he had escaped to the top of a house, not far off, where he stationed himself to watch our movements. He no sooner espied the cannon, than he ran down in great haste, begging for a few minutes to open the door, saying “somebody might be killed,” &c. We then entered peaceably. Magoffin, the trader, whom the authorities of the city had condemned to death as a traitor, cannot be found. On inquiry, we learned that he had been sent to Durango. But several are of opinion, that he has been killed.

_6th._--I went to the Secretary’s office and wrote letters to my sisters in Maryland.

_10th._--For several days past we have been relieved from all extra duty, only answering to the roll-call night and morning. I have been busily engaged to-day writing letters for different persons.

_17th._--During the past week I have had no time to write in my journal. I have been busy in writing letters for others, and assisting in writing out requisitions, &c. I received to-night the first number of the “Anglo Saxon,” a paper printed by our boys, and the first American newspaper ever published in Chihuahua. On Wednesday the 15th, the express started from here for the United States. Many weary months have passed, and we have heard no tidings from home and friends. Truly a soldier’s lot is a hard one.

_19th._--I had a chill last night, which ended in a fever. I felt thankful that I was favored with every attention from Lieut. Sprawl, who is as kind and generous as he is brave. A few hours sleep recovered me in some degree from the stupidity in which the fever left me, and I arose from the stone floor refreshed. I went to church, which was opened for Mass, but soon returned with a headache, longing for the simple and sweet worship of my own church at home. An express consisting of twelve men was sent on to General Taylor to-day.

_20th._--I took a stroll through the town--went down to the American Hotel to learn what news was stirring. Nothing is heard from the South.

_23d._--We have at this time all that is necessary for our comfort, and nothing to do but attend to our slight duties, and the care of our mules and horses. A strict guard is kept. The captured cannon is in charge of the non-commissioned officers, and our company has to practice target shooting. Being number four I have to touch off the guns. The concussion jars my head so much that I have to place a quid of tobacco in _each_ cheek, to prevent it from injuring my teeth, which are very sore. The companies are all well disciplined, and with our 25 pieces of artillery, Col. Doniphan says he would defy 10,000 Mexicans. When not on duty, our men resort to every kind of mischief by way of amusement. Two pieces of artillery found at this place, were by them, on yesterday, dismounted and blown up. They were filled with powder and plugged, and the muzzles being buried in the earth several feet, a slow match was applied. The reports were terrific. They have also burnt all the powder. A train, nearly one-fourth of a mile in length, was made and set off, and which ignited several barrels at its termination. The poor affrighted Mexicans, meanwhile, ran off crying “no wano, no wano,” (very bad, very bad.) Another species of fun, consists in collecting all the dogs that can be found during the day, and carefully shutting them in a room; at night each dog is brought out, and a large bundle of fire works fastened to his tail. He is then let loose, amid the general halloo; and being enveloped in sparks, accompanied with the noise of small fire arms, wherever he runs in the crowded streets, the Mexicans fly before him with the utmost consternation.

_Sunday, April 4th._--This was the appointed morning for us to leave Chihuahua for the south. But, on account of a bull fight, our trip is postponed. As soon as church was over, the soldiers hastened to see this great sight. As I was conscientious in regard to the violation of the Sabbath, I, of course, staid behind; I was, however, informed by the men on their return, that five bulls were let loose, but none were killed. If they cannot strike the animal in some vital part, they are obliged to let him live. The blows were badly dealt and the bull escaped. This is a strange mixture of christianity with the barbarities of heathenism. Card playing, cock fighting, bull baiting, and dancing, are the chief amusements of these people, and they are always accompanied with excessive drinking, not unfrequently with quarrelling and fighting, in which the belligerents are bruised, their limbs broken, and their lives sometimes destroyed. What an idea of the character of God must be entertained in the midst of such performances? He can hardly be regarded as a God of love, whose delight is in the upright walk and chaste conversation of his people. The service of that blinded population, comports better with what we might suppose would be the worship of the devil, were such worship distinctly ordered. Alas! for the darkness in which so many of our race are enveloped!

_5th._--The wagons were loaded for our long journey--but a difficulty in getting our soldiers together detained us till two o’clock, P. M. At length, every thing being in readiness, we started out of town. Some of our men imagined themselves commanders in chief, assumed to give orders, and were otherwise troublesome. We succeeded in reaching a ranch, twelve miles off, and encamped.

_6th._--Moved on twenty-five miles, and stopped at a ranch late in the evening. Putting our horses in a clover field--we spread our blankets on the ground and rested till morning.

_7th._--After accomplishing another 25 miles to-day, we erected our tents close to the walls of a town. Here we were joined by two strangers, who said they came from a coral, 140 miles off, to inform us that a large Mexican force of about 10,000 soldiers were on their way to re-take Chihuahua. They also stated, that Generals Taylor and Wool had gone far to the south, in the direction of the city of Mexico. These men being native Americans induced our Colonel to listen to their story, which, if true, would have placed us in a bad situation. With one half of our command left behind at Chihuahua, we could be easily cut off from this point.

_8th._--This morning we had orders to start back to Chihuahua. After marching 25 miles reached the second ranch, and encamped.

_9th._--Our Sergeant woke us all at two o’clock to get our breakfast, and make an early start. We travelled briskly 36 miles, and arrived at Chihuahua about four o’clock. Here we are again in the city, at our old quarters.

_14th._--I have been employed in writing for our Surgeon, and others, for several days past. Yesterday we heard that Vera Cruz was taken by Gen. Scott. Twenty-eight rounds were fired by our artillery-men.

_15th._--I witnessed to-day the mode of punishment among the Mexicans, and felt disgusted at the sight. Offenders are tied to a tree and severely lashed for different offences. I saw several whipped to-day for horse stealing. At night it commenced raining. The first rain since we have been in the city. I was too sick to perform the duty of sentinel.

_16th._--The morning air being clear and cool I took a walk to relieve the excessive languor I feel. I have little or no appetite, and my spirits are very much depressed. I went to the American Hotel, where a great many questions were asked me. While there I read an advertisement of a grand ball to be given on Sunday, 18th, entrance $2. It is really distressing to contemplate the desecration of the Sabbath in this country. Oh! how I long to be once more in a truly christian land, and among congenial spirits.

_Sunday, 18th._--Various exhibitions encountered at every step throughout the city to-day. Sunday as it is, gambling is the most prominent. At night the greater part of our men went to the ball.

_19th._--Drew off some writing for our Doctor; afterwards, with a messmate, took a bath in the river--still quite sick, and nothing to eat, but poor beef, with bread and coffee. This stone floor is particularly hard to rest on.

_24th._--I went with a Mexican to see the _prison_. He was very polite and accommodating; he took me through the cells, and showed me the blocks, and chains, handcuffs, lariats, &c. that had been prepared to keep all the prisoners safely, which they expected to have taken in the battle. They were to have been kept here until they could be marched on foot to the city of Mexico. But they counted their game a little too soon! The prison is the darkest and most gloomy place I ever saw.

_Sunday morning, 25th._--Just as the church bells began to ring, our men geared up their mules, and at 11 o’clock, two companies started out of town with the artillery, and arrived about three o’clock at the first ranch.

_26th._--An early start took us to the second ranch 25 miles. To-night our second battalion came up.

_27th._--After marching 36 miles to-day we came to a town called Santa Cruz, where we encamped.

_28th._--We lay by here, and wait for the rest of the army, which will start from Chihuahua to-day.

_29th._--At day-break we set out, and after marching 21 miles came to Sousilla, a town situated on the river Couchas, which is, at that place, a considerable stream. I went with one or two hundred others, and took a refreshing bath. At night I cooked a supper of coarse bread, beef and coffee, with the materials of a coral, which we tore down.

_30th._--Still travelling on the Rio Couchas. Passed a town called Los Cruezas, and at the end of 28 miles encamped at the town of San Rosalia. Col. Doniphan’s first battalion came up to-night.

_May 1st._--At the sound of the reveille all went in line, and after roll-call our captain told us to get our arms in good order for inspection at nine o’clock. Every man was soon busy firing off loaded guns, cleaning out, &c. To-night I went into town and brought a welcome repast for my mess, viz. pork-steak and nice bread.

_2d._--Our Captain, after calling the roll, told us that the reveille had sounded thus early for a company to go in advance. Came out a few miles and stopped to inspect a fort the Mexicans had erected to keep Gen. Wool from marching to Chihuahua. It is nicely finished off, with port holes for their batteries, &c. The building covers nearly an acre of ground; but every thing is silent; the place being entirely deserted. A fatiguing march of 27 miles brought us to a ranch called Remado, where we passed the night.

_3d._--The country is still barren between these ranchos, which are always found in fertile valleys, mostly inhabited. Some muskeet brush was all we could find on our road to-day; no verdant carpet of grass to relieve the eye from the strong glare of the rays of the sun pouring on the sandy plains as we pass along. A late hour brought us to a large town called Huadaquilla, on the Rio Florida. We travelled 30 miles to-day.

_4th._--At ten we left--came out six miles and encamped. On our way we saw several monuments erected to various saints. A pile of rocks marks the grave of one great personage. In the centre of the pile is erected a cross, adorned with artificial flowers. The country around this town is cultivated; provisions are cheap and plenty. All the soldiers are now engaged in packing provisions and water; the latter precious article, it is said, will not be found again till 65 miles are passed over. At four, P. M., we came on and travelled 25 miles in this jornada, and laid ourselves down to sleep in the sand, after taking a cut of meat and bread at nearly 12 o’clock.

_5th._--By the time it was light our Orderly came around to arouse us to roll-call. Some poor fellows, half asleep, staggered off into the ranks. We started and marched 40 miles through a thick dust, when we came to a pond of brackish water, which is sometimes found in these deserts. Here we halted for the night. The water was quickly drunk by our famishing boys, notwithstanding it was a disagreeable mixture of salt and sulphur.

_6th._--The fatigue and sufferings of yesterday were not allayed by a report in camp that several thousand Mexicans were lying in wait a few miles ahead, in order to cut off our artillery. We marched on ten miles and stopped on the banks of the Rio Cerro Gordo, where we have tolerably good water.

_7th._--I arose from the guard-fire, where I had been stretched the last three hours dull and sleepy, having been on duty all the former part of the night; I went to my mess, whom I found eating breakfast. As soon as we got through, our command started and travelled 30 miles. Here we stopped at a ranch, near which are several springs bursting from a bank, the water of which is very clear, but very warm, and of a most disagreeable taste. A few hundred yards from the camp we saw a large deserted fort, also a coral, which our boys tore down to cook with. The face of the country has nothing to recommend it, but a vast variety of cactus, beautifully in bloom all over the sandy plains. Covered with dust, I found a bath in the hot springs very refreshing to-night.

_Sunday, 9th._--Pursued our way uninterruptedly the past two days and travelled 40 miles. At night we encamped at a town called Mapemilla. At our approach the inhabitants fled to the mountains. It was a fine night, and their fires in the distance, dotting the mountain side, had a singular and romantic effect. News met us here that Gen. Scott had whipped Santa Anna, which caused Col. Doniphan to fire a salute of 29 rounds.

_10th._--At 3 o’clock this morning the reveille sounded. A little coarse bread, and coffee without sugar, constituted breakfast, on which we travelled 30 miles. We halted late at night at a ranch called San Sebastian, on the Rio Mosas, a stream sufficiently large for swimming. It was soon covered with our soldiers enjoying this rare luxury.

_11th._--At an early hour we had to bury two of our men, who died yesterday. They were found last night (after our fatiguing march of 30 miles) dead in the wagons. They were buried in a warlike manner. We crossed the river two miles below the town, and pursued our route 30 miles to another village, called San Lorenzo. Here we encamped, but suffered much inconvenience from want of water, having to use it very sparingly. To-night another grave was opened for another of our men.

_12th._--As usual, our whole command was put in motion at three o’clock, and after marching seven miles through a thick dust, had orders to halt and turn back, for we had left the right road behind. Our army turned about and travelled several miles until we got right. At the end of 18 miles we encamped on the Rio Mosas. Here, unable to join the swimmers from a violent attack of ear-ache, accompanied with a most painful sore mouth, which latter I have suffered with since leaving Chihuahua, I went to a Dutch surgeon for advice. He looked in my mouth a few seconds, and with an air of confidence declared that _nothing ailed me_. I determined thereafter to bear my pains like a hero, and almost vowed that I would never pester a Dutchman either for his sympathy or his prescriptions.

_13th._--This morning we started early, and after travelling 30 miles reached a ranch. The first objects that met our eyes were six Indians lying dead. They had been killed by our advance guard of about 30 rank and file, under Capt. Reid. The guard was unexpectedly attacked by a body of Indians, which they repulsed, after killing 13 of their number, with their chief. He must have been a desperate warrior, for even after he was shot down, and to the last moment of his life, he tried to use his bow and arrows. These fellows were seen coming from a gap of the mountain, some distance off, making direct for our little party, who went out at full gallop to meet them. A discharge of arrows was met by a volley from our men. A considerable skirmish now ensued. The Indians raising the war-whoop, rushed on them, discharging their arrows with incredible rapidity; but they were forced to retreat, and these bodies were dragged hither as trophies.

_14th._--About one o’clock in the night, while our wearied soldiers slept, two guns were heard. In an instant our Captain jumped to his feet, and hurriedly went over the ground to wake us all up. In a few moments every man had on his arms. After waiting some time for the enemy, news came that one of the Lieutenants was shot through the hand. It appears that this Lieutenant was officer of the night, and in his rounds, tried to take a sentinel by surprise. Creeping stealthily on the ground to the spot, he was told by the sentinel to stop and give the countersign. No answer being returned, he fired. As soon as he found that he was shot in the hand he returned the charge on the sentinel. But no one can tell as yet who this watchful sentinel is. I made up a fire to prepare coffee. At two o’clock the reveille sounded for all to saddle up. At four we started, and after marching 25 miles came in sight of Parras, a large city. Our Adjutant chose a place for us to encamp, which is in a beautiful grove of ornamental cotton trees. The scene is new and pleasant. Here are trees, green cornfields, and running streams. The gardens in and around the city are beautifully arranged, and _tastefully_ supplied with ripe apricots, oranges and lemons; also a great variety of flowering shrubs and plants.