Chapter VIII: Part 8
The Second, we made ready to be going. The _Indian_ given by the first Village for our Guide, would not go any farther. A Man, said to be an Hermaphrodite, offer’d to supply his Place, saying, he was willing to go to the _Islinois_. We took Leave of the Sieur _Couture_, to whom Monsr. _Cavelier_ made an Exhortation, encouraging him to persevere and have Patience, in Hopes of the Relief we wou’d send him, and so we imbark’d on the _Missisipi_ in a Canoe, being Nine in Number, that is, five of us, and the four _Indians_ that were our Guides. We were oblig’d to cross that River very often, and no less frequently to carry our Canoe and Goods, as well on Account of the Rapidity of the River, and to find it slacker on the one or the other Side of it, which was very troublesome to our Guides, as because of the little islands we met with, which are form’d by the impetuous beating of the Water upon the Banks, that oppose its Course, where the Channels happen not to lie strait; there it washes away the Earth and bears down great Trees, which in Process of Time form little Islands, that divide the Channel. At Night we incamp’d in one of those small Islands, for our greater Safety, for we were then come into an Enemy’s Nation, call’d _Machigamea_, which put our _Indians_ into great Frights.
It is certain our Toil was very great, for we were oblig’d to row in the Canoe, to help our _Indians_ to stem the Current of the River, because we were going up, and it was very strong and rapid; we were often necessitated to land, and sometimes to travel over miry Lands, where we sunk up half way the Leg; other Times over burning Sands, which scorch’d our Feet, having no Shoes, or else over Splinters of Wood, which ran into the Soles of our Feet, and when we were come to the resting Place, we were to provide Fuel to dress our Meat, and provide all Things for our _Indians_, who would not have done so much as go fetch a Cup of Water, tho’ we were on the Bank of the River, and yet we were happy enough in having them.
We proceeded on, continually undergoing the same Toil, till the Seventh, when, we saw the first Bullock, we had met on our Way, since our coming among the _Accancea’s_. The _Indians_, who had a great Mind to eat Flesh, made a Sign to me, to go kill it. I pursu’d and Shot, but it did not fall, the _Indians_ ran after, kill’d, and came to tell us it must be parch’d, or dry’d, which was accordingly done. I must here take Notice of a Ceremony our _Indians_ perform’d, when they came near the Bullock, before they flead him.
[Sidenote: _Ceremony at dressing a Bullock._]
In the first Place, they adorn’d his Head with some Swans and Bustards Down, dy’d red, and put some Tabacco into his Nostrils, and between the Clefts of the Hoofs. When they had flead him, they cut out the Tongue, and put a Bit of Tabacco into its Place; then they stuck two Wooden Forks into the Ground, laid a Stick across them, on which they plac’d several Slices of the Flesh, in the Nature of an Offering. The Ceremony being ended, we parch’d or dry’d the best Parts of the Beast and proceeded on our Journey.
[Sidenote: _Banks of several Colours._]
The 9th, we found the Banks of the River very high, and the Earth of them Yellow, Red and White, and thither the Natives came to furnish themselves with it, to adorn their Bodies, on Festival Days. We held on our Way till the 14th, when we met a Herd of Bullocks, whereof we kill’d five, dry’d Part of them, and proceeded till the 18th.
[Sidenote: Houabache _River_.]
The 19th, we came to the Mouth of the River, call’d _Houabache_, said to come from the Country of the _Iroquois_, towards _New England_. That is a very fine River, its Water extraordinary clear, and the Current of it, gentle. Our _Indians_ offer’d up to it, by Way of Sacrifice, some Tabacco and Beef Steaks, which they fix’d on Forks, and left them on the Bank, to be dispos’d of as the River thought fit. We observ’d some other Superstitions among those poor People, one whereof was as follows.
[Sidenote: _Indian Fast._]
There were some certain Days, on which they Fasted, and we knew them, when as soon as they awak’d, they besmear’d their Faces and Arms, or other Parts of their Bodies, with a slimy Sort of Earth, or pounded Charcoal; for that Day they did not eat till Ten or Eleven of the Clock at Night, and before they did eat they were to wipe off that Smearing, and had Water brought them for that Purpose. The Occasion of their Fasting was, as they gave us to understand, that they might have good Success in Hunting, and kill Abundance of Bullocks.
[Sidenote: _Salt Water Spring._]
[Sidenote: _Wild Fruit._]
We held on our Way till the 25th, when the _Indians_ shew’d us a Spring of Salt Water, within a Musket Shot of us, and made us go ashore to view it. We observ’d the Ground about it was much beaten by Bullocks Feet, and it is likely they love that Salt Water. The Country about, was full of Hillocks, cover’d with Oaks and Wallnut-Trees, Abundance of Plum-Trees, almost all the Plums red and pretty good, besides great Store of other Sorts of Fruits, whose Names we know not, and among them one shap’d like a midling Pear, with Stones in it as big as large Beans. When ripe it peels like a Peach, the Taste is indifferent good, but rather of the Sweetest.
The 27th, having discover’d a Herd of Beeves, we went ashore to kill some; I shot a Heifer, which was very good Meat, we put a Board the best of it, and held on our Way till the Evening, when we encamp’d on an Island, where we observ’d an alteration in the Humour and Behaviour of our _Indians_. This put us under some Apprehension, and the more, for that he who was reckon’d an Hermaphrodite, told us, they intended to leave us, which oblig’d us to secure our Arms and double our Watch during the Night, for Fear they should forsake us.
[Sidenote: Missouris _River_.]
With that Jealousy we proceeded on our Journey the 28th and 29th, coasting along the Foot of an upright Rock, about sixty, or eighty Foot high, round which the River glides. Held on the 30th and 31st, and the first of _September_ pass’d by the Mouth of a River call’d _Missouris_, whose Water is always thick, and to which our _Indians_ did not forget to offer Sacrifice.
[Sidenote: _Figure of a pretended Monster._]
[Sidenote: _Sept. 1687_]
[Sidenote: _River of the_ Islinois.]
The 2d, we arriv’d at the Place, where the Figure is of the pretended Monster spoken of by Father _Marquet_. That Monster consists of two scurvy Figures drawn in red, on the flat Side of a Rock, about eight or ten Foot high, which wants very much of the extraordinary Height that Relation mentions. However our _Indians_ paid Homage, by offering Sacrifice to that Stone; tho’ we endeavour’d to give them to understand, that the said Rock had no Manner of Virtue, and that we worship’d something above it, pointing up to Heaven; but it was to no Purpose, and they made Signs to us, that they should die if they did not perform that Duty. We proceeded, coasting along a Chain of Mountains, and at length, on the 3d, left the _Missisipi_, to enter the River of the _Islinois_.
We found a great Alteration in that River, as well with Respect to its Course, which is very gentle, as to the Country about it, which is much more agreeable and beautiful than that about the great River, by Reason of the many fine Woods and Variety of Fruit its Banks are adorn’d with. It was a very great comfort to us, to find so much Ease in going up that River, by Reason of its gentle Stream, so that we all stay’d in the Canoe and made much more Way.
[Sidenote: Indian _dies of eating raw Suet_.]
Thus we went on till the 8th, without stopping any longer than to kill a Bullock, and one of our _Indians_, who had a craving Stomach, having eaten some of its Suet hot and raw, was taken very ill, and died of it, as I shall mention in its Place.
The 9th, we came into a Lake, about half a League over, which we cross’d, and return’d into the Channel of the River, on the Banks whereof we found several Marks of the Natives having been incamp’d there, when they came to fish and dry what they caught. The 10th, we cross’d another Lake, call’d _Primitehouy_, return’d to the River, and the 11th, saw _Indians_ before us, incamp’d on the Bank of a River, whereupon we stop’d and made ready our Arms. In the mean Time, one of them came towards us by Land, and we put on our Canoe towards him.
[Sidenote: _Meeting with_ Islinois.]
When that _Indian_ was near, he stood gazing on us, without speaking a Word, and then drawing still nearer, we gave him to understand, that we were sent by Monsieur _de la Sale_, and came from him. Then he made Signs to us, to advance towards his People, whom, he went before to acquaint with what he had said to him, so that when we were come near them they fired Several Shot to salute us, and we answer’d them with our Firelocks.
After that mutual Salutation, they came into our Canoe, to signify, they were glad to hear News of Monsieur _de la Sale_. We ask’d them, What Nation they were of; they answer’d, They were _Islinois_, of a Canton call’d _Cascasquia_. We enquir’d whether Monsieur _Tonty_ was at Fort _Lewis_; they gave us to understand, that he was not, but that he was gone to the War against the _Iroquois_. They invited us Ashore, to go with them to eat of such as they had, we thank’d them, and they brought us some Gourds and Water Melons, in Exchange for which, we gave them some parch’d Flesh.
We had not by the Way taken Notice of a Canoe, in which was a Man with two Women, who, being afraid of us, had hid themselves among the Reeds, but that man seeing us stop among his Countrymen, took Heart, came to us, and having told us, that he belong’d to a Village near Fort _Lewis_, we set out together, and one of our _Indians_ went into that Canoe, to help them to shove, so they call the Way of pushing on the Canoe with Poles instead of rowing.
[Sidenote: _Fort_ Lewis _among the_ Islinois.]
On _Sunday_, the 14th of _September_, about two in the Afternoon, we came into the Neighbourhood of Fort _Lewis_. Drawing near, we were met by some _Indians_ that were on the Bank, who having view’d us well, and understanding we came from Monsr. _de la Sale_, and that we belong’d to him, ran to the Fort to carry the News, and immediately we saw a _French_ Man come out, with a Company of _Indians_, who fir’d a Volley of several Pieces, to salute us. Then the _French_ Man drew near, and desir’d us to come Ashore, which we did, leaving only one in the Canoe, to take Care of our Baggage; for the _Islinois_ are very sharp at carrying off anything they can lay their Hands on, and consequently, nothing near so honest as the Nations we had pass’d thro’.
[Sidenote: _Arrival at Fort_ Lewis.]
We all walk’d together towards the Fort, and found three _French_ Men coming to meet us, and among them a Clerk, who had belong’d to the late Monsr. _de la Sale_, nomme Boisrondet. They immediately ask’d us, where Monsr. _de la Sale_ was, we told them, he had brought us Part of the Way, and left us at a Place about forty Leagues beyond the _Cenis_, and that he was then in good Health. All that was true enough; for Monsr. _Cavelier_ and I, who were the Persons, that then spoke, were not present at Monsr. _de la Sale’s_ Death; he was in good Health when he left us, and I have told the Reasons we had for concealing his Death, till we came into _France_.
It is no less true, that Father _Anastasius_, and he they call’d _Teissier_, could have given a better Account, the one as an Eye Witness, and the other, as one of the Murderers, and they were both with us; but to avoid lying, they said Nothing. We farther told them, we had Orders to go over into _France_, to give an Account of the Discoveries made by Monsieur _de la Sale_, and to procure the sending of Succours.
[Sidenote: _Reception._]
At length, we enter’d the Fort, where we found and surpriz’d several Persons who did not expect us. All the _French_ were under Arms and made several Discharges to welcome us. Monsieur _de Belle Fontaine_ Lieutenant to Monsr. _Tonty_, was at the Head of them and complimented us. Then we were conducted to the Chappel, where we return’d Thanks to God, from the Bottom of our Hearts, for having preserv’d and conducted us in Safety; after which we had our Lodgings assigned us, Monsr. _Cavelier_ and Father _Anastasius_ had one Chamber, and we were put into the Magazine, or Warehouse. All this While, the Natives came by Intervals, to fire their Pieces, to express their Joy for our Return, and for the News we brought of Monsieur _de la Sale_, which refresh’d our Sorrow for his Misfortune; perceiving that his Presence would have settled all Things advantageously.
The Day after our Arrival, one of the _Indians_, who had conducted us, having been sick ever since he eat the raw Beef Suet, I mention’d before, died, and his Companions took away and bury’d him privately. We gave them the promis’d Reward, and the Part belonging to the Dead Man, to be deliver’d to his Relations. They stay’d some Time in the Fort, during the which, we took extraordinary Care of them, and at last they return’d to their own Homes.
As far as we could gather by half Words dropp’d there by one or other at the Fort, Something had been done there prejudicial to the Service of Monsr. _de la Sale_, and against his Authority, and therefore some dreaded his Return, but more especially a _Jesuit_ was in great Consternation. He was sick, Monsieur _Cavelier_, Father _Anastasius_ and I went to visit him. He enquired very particularly of all Points, and could not conceal his Trouble, which we would not seem to take Notice of.
[Sidenote: _Falls in the River._]
Our Design being to make the best of our way to _Canada_, in Order to set out Aboard the first _French_ Ships that should Sail for _France_, we enquired how we were to proceed, and met with several Difficulties. The Navigation on that River was very Dangerous,[117] by Reason of the Falls there are in it, which must be carefully avoided, unless a Man will run an inevitable Hazard of perishing. There were few Persons capable of managing that Affair, and the War with the _Iroquois_ made all Men afraid.
[Sidenote: _Oct. 1687_]
However the Sieur _Boisrondet_, Clerk to the late Monsr. _de la Sale_, having told us he had a Canoe, in which he design’d to go down to _Canada_, we prepared to make use of that Opportunity. Care was taken to gather Provisions for our Voyage, to get Furs to barter as we pass’d by _Micilimaquinay_. The Visits of two Chiefs of Nations, call’d _Cascasquia_ _Peroueria_ and _Cacahouanous_ discover’d by the late Monsieur _de la Sale_, did not interrupt our Affairs, and all things being ready on the 1st, we took Leave on the 18th, of those we left in the Fort. Monsieur _Cavelier_ writ a Letter for Monsieur _Tonty_, which he left there to be delivered to him, and we repair’d to the Lake to imbark.
[Sidenote: _M._ Cavelier, _&c. set out and returns again_.]
It would be needless to relate all the Troubles and Hardships we met with, in that Journey, it was painful and fruitless, for having gone to the Bank of the Lake, in very foul Weather, after waiting there eight Days, for that foul Weather to cease, and after we had imbark’d, notwithstanding the Storm, we were oblig’d to put Ashore again, to return to the Place where we had imbark’d, and there to dig a Hole in the Earth, to bury our Baggage and Provisions, to save the Trouble of carrying them back to Fort _Lewis_, whither we return’d and arrived there the 7th of _October_; where they were surpriz’d to see us come back.
Thus were we oblig’d to continue in that Fort all the rest of _Autumn_ and Part of the _Winter_, to our great Sorrow, and not so much for our own Disappointment, as for being, by that Means, obstructed from sending of Succours, as soon as we had expected, as well to the said Fort, as to those _French_ of our own Company, whom we had left on the Coast of the Bay of _Mexico_.
It was then the good Season for shooting. Those Gentlemen at the Fort had secur’d two good _Indian_ Sportsmen, who never let us want for Wild Fowl of all Sorts; besides we had good Bread, and as good Fruit, and had there been any Thing to drink besides Water, we had far’d well. The Leisure we had during our Stay there, gave me an Opportunity of making the following Remarks, as well of my own Observation, as what I learn’d of the _French_ residing there.
[Sidenote: _Description of Fort_ Lewis _and the Country about it_.]
Fort _Lewis_ is in the Country of the _Islinois_ and seated on a steep Rock, about two hundred Foot high, the River running at the Bottom of it. It is only fortified with Stakes and Palisades, and some Houses advancing to the Edge of the Rock. It has a very spacious Esplanade, or Place of Arms. The Place is naturally strong, and might be made so by Art, with little Expence. Several of the Natives live in it, in their Huts. I cannot give an Account of the Latitude it stands in, for Want of proper Instruments to take an Observation, but Nothing can be pleasanter; and it may be truly affirm’d, that the Country of the _Islinois_ enjoys all that can make it accomplish’d, not only as to Ornament, but also for its plentiful Production of all Things requisite for the Support of human Life.
[Sidenote: _Lime and Clay for Bricks, &c._]
The Plain, which is water’d by the River, is beautified by two small Hills, about half a League distant from the Fort, and those Hills are cover’d with Groves of Oaks, Walnut-Trees and other Sorts I have named elsewhere. The Fields are full of Grass, growing up very high. On the Sides of the Hills is found a gravelly Sort of Stone, very fit to make Lime for Building. There are also many Clay Pits, fit for making of Earthen Ware, Bricks and Tiles, and along the River there are Coal Pits, the Coal whereof has been try’d and found very good.
[Sidenote: _Mines._]
There is no Reason to question, but that there are in this Country, Mines of all Sorts of Metals, and of the richest, the Climate being the same as that of _New Mexico_. We saw several Spots, where it appeared there were Iron Mines, and found some Pieces of it on the Bank of the River, which Nature had cleansed. Travellers who have been at the upper Part of the _Missisipi_, affirm that they have found Mines there, of very good Lead.
[Sidenote: _Product._]
That Country is one of the most temperate in the World, and consequently whatsoever is sow’d there, whether Herbs, Roots, _Indian_ and even _European_ Corn thrives very well, as has been try’d by the Sieur _Boisrondet_, who sow’d of all Sorts, and had a plentiful Crop, and we eat of the Bread, which was very good. And whereas we were assured, that there were Vines which run up, whose Grapes are very good and delicious, growing along the River, it is reasonable to believe, that if those Vines were transplanted and prun’d, there might be very good Wine made of them. There is also Plenty of wild Apple and Pear Trees, and of several other Sorts, which would afford excellent Fruit, were they grafted and transplanted.
All other Sorts of Fruit, as Plumbs, Peaches and others, wherewith the Country abounds, would become exquisite, if the same Industry were us’d, and other Sorts of Fruit we have in _France_ would thrive well, if they were carry’d over. The Earth produces a Sort of Hemp, whereof Cloth might be made and Cordage.
[Sidenote: _Manners and Customs of the_ Islinois.]
[Sidenote: _Women do all Labour._]
As for the Manners and Customs of the _Islinois_, in many Particulars they are the same as those of the other Nations we have seen. They are naturally fierce and revengeful, and among them the Toil of Sowing, Planting, carrying of Burdens, and doing all other Things that belong to the Support of Life, appertains peculiarly to the Women. The Men have no other Business but going to the War and hunting, and the women must fetch the Game when they have kill’d it, which sometimes they are to carry very far to their Dwellings, and there to parch, or dress it any other Way.
When the Corn or other Grain is sow’d, the Women secure it from the Birds till it comes up. Those Birds are a sort of Starlings, like ours in _France_, but larger and fly in great Swarms.
[Sidenote: _Children._]
The _Islinois_ have but few Children, and are extremely fond of them; it is the Custom among them, as well as others I have mentioned, never to chide, or beat them, but only to throw Water at them, by Way of Chastisement.
[Sidenote: _Thieving._]
[Sidenote: _Boasting._]
The Nations we have spoken of before, are not at all, or very little, addicted to Thieving; but it is not so with the _Islinois_, and it behoves every Man to watch their Feet as well as their Hands, for they know how to turn any Thing out of the Way most dexterously. They are subject to the general Vice of all the other _Indians_, which is to boast very much of their Warlike Exploits, and that is the main Subject of their Discourse, and they are very great Lyars.
[Sidenote: _Care of the Dead._]
They pay a Respect to their Dead, as appears by their special Care of burying them, and even of putting into Coffins placed high above the ground, the Bodies of such as are considerable among them, as their Chiefs and others, which is also practiced among the _Accancea’s_, but they differ in this Particular, that the _Accancea’s_ weep and make their Complaints for some Days, whereas the _Chahouanous_ and other People of the _Islinois_ Nation do just the Contrary; for when any of them die, they wrap them up in Skins, and then put them into Coffins made of the Barks of Trees, then sing and dance about them for twenty four Hours. Those Dancers take Care to tie Calabashes, or Gourds about their Bodies, with some _Indian_ Wheat in them, to rattle and make a Noise, and some of them have a Drum, made of a great Earthen Pot, on which they extend a wild Goat’s Skin, and beat thereon with one Stick, like our Tabors.
[Sidenote: _Presents to the Dead._]
During that Rejoicing, they throw their Presents on the Coffin, as Bracelets, Pendants, or Pieces of Earthen Ware, and Strings of Beads, encouraging the Singers to perform their Duty well. If any Friend happens to come thither at that Time, he immediately throws down his Present and falls a singing and dancing like the rest. When that Ceremony is over, they bury the Body, with Part of the Presents, making choice of such as may be most proper for it. They also bury with it, some Store of _Indian_ Wheat, with a Pot to boil it in, for fear the dead Person should be hungry on his long Journey; and they repeat the same Ceremony at the Year’s End.
[Sidenote: _Game of the Stick._]
A good Number of Presents still remaining, they divide them into several Lots, and play at a Game, call’d of the Stick, to give them to the Winner. That Game is play’d, taking a short Stick, very smooth and greas’d, that it may be the Harder to hold it fast. One of the Elders throws that Stick as far as he can, the young Men run after it, snatch it from each other, and at last, he who remains possess’d of it, has the first Lot. The Stick is then thrown again, he who keeps it then has the second Lot, and so on to the End. The Women, whose Husbands have been slain in War, often perform the same Ceremony, and treat the Singers and Dancers whom they have before invited.
[Sidenote: _Marriages._]
The Marriages of the _Islinois_ last no longer, than the Parties agree together; for they freely part after a Hunting Bout, each going which Way they please, without any Ceremony. However, the Men are jealous enough of their Wives, and when they catch them in a Fault, they generally cut off their Noses, and I saw one who had been so serv’d.
[Sidenote: _Adultery._]
Nevertheless, Adultery is not reckon’d any great Crime among them, and there are Women who make no Secret of having had to do with _French_ Men. Yet are they not sufficiently addicted to that Vice to offer themselves, and they never fall, unless they are sued to, when, they are none of the most difficult in the World to be prevail’d on. The rest I leave to those who have liv’d longer there than I.
[Sidenote: _How the Travellers liv’d._]
We continu’d some Time in Fort _Lewis_, without receiving any News. Our Business was, after having heard Mass, which we had the good Fortune to do every Day, to divert our selves the best we could. The _Indian_ Women daily brought in something fresh, we wanted not for Water Melons, Bread made of _Indian_ Corn, bak’d in the Embers, and other such Things, and we rewarded them with little Presents in Return.
[Sidenote: _M._ Tonty _comes to Fort_ Lewis.]
[Sidenote: _War with the_ Iroquois.]
On the 27th of _October_, of the same Year, Monsieur _Tonty_ return’d from the War with the _Iroquois_.[118] Our Embraces and the Relation of our Adventures were again repeated; but still concealing from him, the Death of Monsieur _de la Sale_. He told us all the Particulars of that war, and said, That the _Iroquois_ having got Intelligence of the March of the _French_ Forces and their Allies, had all come out of their Villages and laid themselves in Ambush by the Way; but that having made a sudden and general Discharge upon our Men, with their usual Cries, yet without much Harm done, they had been repuls’d with Loss, took their Flight, and by the Way burnt all their own Villages. That Monsieur _d’Hennonville_[119] chief Governor of _New France_, had caus’d the Army to march, to burn the rest of their Villages, set Fire to their Country and Corn, but would not proceed any farther. That afterwards he had made himself Master of several Canoes belonging to the _English_, most of them laden with Brandy, which had been plunder’d; that the _English_ had been sent Prisoners to _Montreal_, they being come to make some Attempt upon the _Islinois_.
[Sidenote: _Dec. 1687_]
We continued after this Manner, till the Month of _December_, when two Men arrived, from _Montreal_. They came to give Notice to Monsr. _Tonty_, that three Canoes, laden with Merchandize, Powder, Ball and other Things, were arriv’d at _Chicagou_, that there being two little Water in the River, and what there was being frozen, they could come down no lower; so that it being requisite to send Men to fetch those Things, Monsr. _Tonty_ desir’d the Chief of the _Chahouanous_ to furnish him with People. That Chief accordingly provided forty, as well Men as Women, who set out with some _French_ Men. The Honesty of the _Chahouanous_ was the Reason of preferring them before the _Islinois_, who are naturally Knaves.
[Sidenote: _Feb. 1688_]
That Ammunition and the Merchandize were soon brought, and very seasonably, the Fort being then in Want. We stay’d there till the End of _February_, 1688, at which Time we fix’d our Resolution to depart, tho’ we had no News from _Canada_, as we expected. We found there were some Canoes ready to undertake that Voyage, and we laid hold of that Opportunity to convoy each other to the _Micilimaquinay_, where we hop’d to meet some News from _Canada_.
[Sidenote: _Mar. 1688_]
Monsieur _Cavelier_ the Priest, had taken Care, before the Death of M. _de la Sale_, his Brother, to get of him a Letter of Credit, to receive either a Sum of Money or Furs in the Country of the _Islinois_. He tender’d that Letter to M. _Tonty_, who believing M. _de la Sale_ was still alive, made no Difficulty of giving him to the Value of about 4000 Livres in Furs, Castors and Otter Skins, a Canoe and other Effects, for which, the said Monsr. _Cavelier_ gave him his Note,[120] and we prepar’d for our Journey.
I have before observed, that there was a _Jesuit_, whose name was _Dalouez_[121] at Fort _Lewis_, and who had been very much surpriz’d to hear that Monsr. _de la Sale_ was to come in a short Time, being under great Apprehensions on Account of a Conspiracy intended to have been carry’d on, against Monsr. _de la Sale’s_ Interest. That Father perceiving our Departure was fix’d, mov’d first, and went away foremost, to return to _Micilimaquinay_;[122] so that they were left without a Priest at Fort _Lewis_, which was a great Trouble to us, because we were the Occasion of it, and therefore those, who were to remain in the Fort, anticipated the Time, and made their _Easter_, taking the Advantage of the Presence of F. _Anastasius_ and M. _Cavelier_.
[Sidenote: _The Travel continued._]
At length, we set out the 21st of _March_, from Fort _Lewis_. The Sieur _Boisrondet_, who was desirous to return to _France_, join’d us, we imbark’d on the River, which was then become navigable, and before we had advanc’d five Leagues, met with a rapid Stream, which oblig’d us to go Ashore, and then again into the Water, to draw along our Canoe. I had the Misfortune to hurt one of my Feet against a Rock that lay under Water, which troubled me very much for a long Time; and we being under a Necessity of going often into the Water, I suffer’d extreamly, and more than I had done since our Departure from the Gulph of _Mexico_.
We arriv’d at _Chicagou_ the 29th of _March_, and our first Care was to go seek what we had conceal’d at our former Voyage, having, as was there said, bury’d our Luggage and Provisions. We found it had been open’d, and some Furs and Linen taken away, almost all which belong’d to me. This had been done by a _French_ Man, whom M. _Tonty_ had sent from the Fort, during the Winter Season, to know whether there were any Canoes at _Chicagou_, and whom he had directed to see whether any Body had medled with what we had conceal’d, and he made Use of that Advice to rob us.
[Sidenote: _Sweet Water from a Tree._]
The bad Weather oblig’d us to stay in that Place, till _April_. That Time of Rest was advantageous for the Healing my Foot; and there being but very little Game in that Place, we had Nothing but our Meal or _Indian_ Wheat to feed on; yet we discover’d a Kind of _Manna_,[123] which was a great Help to us. It was a Sort of Trees, resembling our Maple, in which we made Incisions, whence flow’d a sweet Liquor, and in it we boil’d our _Indian_ Wheat, which made it delicious, sweet and of a very agreeable Relish.
There being no Sugar-Canes in that Country, those Trees supply’d that Liquor, which being boil’d up and evaporated, turn’d into a Kind of Sugar somewhat brownish, but very good. In the Woods we found a Sort of Garlick, not so strong as ours, and small Onions very like ours in Taste, and some Charvel[124] of the same Relish as that we have, but different in the Leaf.
[Sidenote: Quinetanan _River_.]
The Weather being somewhat mended, we imbark’d again and enter’d upon the Lake on the 8th of _April_, keeping to the North Side to shun the _Iroquois_. We had some Storms also, and saw swelling Waves like those of the Sea; but arriv’d safe the 15th at a River call’d _Quinetanan_, near a Village whence, the Inhabitants depart during the Winter Season, to go a Hunting, and reside there all the Summer.
The Sport is not there as in those Countries from whence we came; but on the Contrary, very poor, and we found Nothing but some very lean Wild Goats, and even those very rarely, because the Wolves, which are very numerous there, make great Havock of them, taking and devouring great Numbers after this Manner.
[Sidenote: _Apr. 1688_]
[Sidenote: _How Wolves catch Goats._]
When the Wolves have discover’d a Herd of Wild Goats, they rouse and set them a running. The Wild Goats never fail to take to the first Lake they meet with. The hunting Wolves, who are used to that, guard the Banks carefully, moving along the Edges of them. The poor Goats being pierc’d by the Cold of the Lake, grow weary and so get out, or else the River swelling forces them out with its Waves, quite benumm’d, so that they are easily taken by their Enemies, who devour them. We frequently saw those Wolves watching along the Side of the Lake, and kept off to avoid frightning them, to the End the Wild Goats might not quit their Sanctuary, that we might catch some of them, as it sometimes fell out.
[Sidenote: Poutouatanni _Nation_.]
The 28th, we arriv’d among the _Poutouatannis_, which is half Way to _Micilimaquinay_, where we purchas’d some _Indian_ Corn for the rest of our Voyage. We left there on the last of the month, and we arrived on the 10th of May at the said place of _Michilimackinac_. We found no News there from _Montreal_, and were forc’d to stay some Time to wait an Opportunity to go down the River; No Man daring to venture, because of the War with the _Iroquois_.
[Sidenote: Hurons _and_ Outahouacs _Nations_.]
[Sidenote: _May 1688_]
There are some _French_ Men in that Place, and four _Jesuits_, who have a House well built with Timber, inclosed with Stakes and Palisades. There are also some _Hurons_ and _Outahouacs_, two Neighbouring Nations, whom those Fathers take Care to instruct, not without very much Trouble, those People being downright Libertines, and there are very often none but a few Women in their Churches. Those Fathers have each of them the Charge of instructing a Nation, and to that Effect have translated the Prayers into the Language peculiar to each of them, as also all other Things relating to the Catholick Faith and Religion.
[Sidenote: _June 1688_]
They offer’d Father _Anastasius_ and Monsieur _Cavelier_ a Room, which they accepted of, and we took up our Lodging in a little Hovel some Travellers had made. There we continued the rest of _May_ and Part of _June_, till after the Feast of _Whitsontide_. The Natives of the Country about, till the Land and sow _Indian_ Corn, Melons and Gourds, but they do not thrive so well as in the Country we came from. However they live on them, and besides they have Fish they catch in the Lake, for Flesh is very scarce among them.
On the 4th of _June_, there arriv’d four Canoes, commanded by Monsieur _de Porneuf_, coming from _Montreal_, and bringing News from the Marques _d’Hennonville_, and Orders to send to the Settlements which were towards the Lake _des Puans_ and others higher up, towards the Source of the River _Colbert_, to know the Posture and Condition of Affairs. We prepar’d to be gone with the two Canoes. Monsieur _Cavelier_ bought another, to carry our Baggage, and left Part of his Furs with a Merchant, who gave him a Note to receive Money at _Montreal_. I did the same with those few Furs I had, the rest of them having been left at _Micilimaquinay_.
[Sidenote: Islinois _and_ Hurons.]
We took Leave of the _Jesuits_, and set out in four Canoes, _viz._ two belonging to Monsieur _de Porneuf_, and two to Monsieur _Cavelier_, one of which had been brought from Fort _Lewis_, and the other bought, as I have just now said, we being twenty-nine of us in those four Canoes. We sail’d on till the 24th, when Monsieur _de Porneuf_ left us to go to St. _Mary’s_ Fall, to carry the Orders given him. The 25th, we got out of the Lake of the _Islinois_, to enter that of the _Hurons_, on the Banks whereof stands the Village, call’d _Tessalon_, where Monsieur _de Porneuf_ came again to us, the 27th, with a Canoe of the Natives, and with him we held on our Way.
[Sidenote: _July 1688_]
[Sidenote: French _River_.]
We proceeded to _Chebonany_ the 30th of _June_, and the 3d of _July_, enter’d the _French_ River, where we were forc’d several Times to carry our Canoes to avoid the Falls and the rapid Streams, observing as we went a barren and dry Country, full of Rocks, on which there grow Cedars and Fir Trees, which take Root in the Clefts of those Rocks.
[Sidenote: _Aug. 1688_]
[Sidenote: Nipicingue _Lake_.]
[Sidenote: _Arrival at_ Montreal.]
The 5th, we enter’d upon the little Lake of _Nipicingue_, adjoining to a Nation of that Name. We got out of it again the 7th, and enter’d upon the great River, where, after having pass’d the great Fall, we arriv’d the 13th, at the Point of the Island of _Montreal_. We landed at a Village call’d _la Chine_, which had belong’d to the late Monsr. _de la Sale_. Monsr. _Cavelier_ set out the 14th, for _Montreal_, where we came to him the 17th.
At _Montreal_ we found the Marques _d’ Hennonville_, Monsieur _de Noroy_ the Intendant and other Gentlemen, to whom we gave an Account of our long and painful Travels, with the Particulars of what we had seen, which they listned to with Satisfaction, but without mentioning Monsieur _de la Sale’s_ Death. We told them the Occasion of our going over into _France_, and they approv’d of it, being of Opinion with us, that we ought to hasten our Departure as much as possible.
We made us some Cloaths, whereof we stood in Need. The Sieur _Teissier_, who came along with us, and was of the Reform’d Religion, knowing the Exercise of it was forbid in _France_, abjur’d it in the great Church of _Montreal_.
[Sidenote: _Arrival at_ Quebec.]
The 27th, we went aboard a Bark to go down the River to _Quebec_, where we arriv’d the 29th, Father _Anastasius_ carry’d us to the Monastery of the Fathers of his Order, seated half a League from the Town, on a little River, where we were most kindly receiv’d by the Father Guardian and the other Religious Men, who express’d much Joy to see us, and we still more for being in a Place of Safety, after so many Perils and Toils, for which we return’d our humble Thanks to Almighty God, our Protector.
We chose rather to take up our Lodging there than in the Town, to avoid the Visits and troublesome Questions every one would be putting to us with much Importunity, which we must have been oblig’d to bear patiently. Monsieur _Cavelier_ and his Nephew, whom we had left at _Montreal_, arriv’d some Days after us, and were lodg’d in the Seminary.
We stay’d in that Monastery till the 21st of _August_, when we imbark’d on a large Boat, eighteen Persons of us, to go down the River of St. _Lawrence_, a Board a Ship, that was taking in and fishing of Cod, in order to reach _France_. We went a Board it the 30th of the same Month, and after hearing Mass, made ready and sail’d for our dear Country, arriv’d safe at _Rochelle_ on _Saturday_ the 9th of _October_ 1688, whence, setting out by Land, _Friday_ the 15th, the same Providence, which had protected and conducted us, brought us without any Misfortune to _Roan_, the 17th of _October_, the same Year.
_The End of the_ JOURNAL.[125]
_The Remainder of the_ LETTER, _written by him who revis’d
this_ JOURNAL, _the other Part whereof is at the Beginning
of it, this being the_ Sequel _to the said_ JOURNAL.
[Sidenote: Note, _That these have writ of those Parts, but none of this particular Voyage_.]
Three several Authors have given an Account of this Voyage; _First_, Father _le Clerk_, upon the Relations he had from the Fathers _Zenobius_ and _Anastasius_, Recolets, as he was himself and both of them Eye-Witnesses: _Secondly_, The Chevalier _Tonty_, who was also a Witness to a considerable Part of those Adventures: And, _Lastly_, Father _Hennepin_, a _Flemming_, of the same Order of the Recolets, has done it more largely; he seems to be well acquainted with the Country, and had a Share in great Discoveries; but the Truth of his Relations is much controverted. It was he who went to the Northward, and towards the Source of the _Missisipi_, which he calls _Mechasipi_, and who printed, at _Paris_, an Account of the Country about the River, giving it the Name of _Louisiana_. He ought to have stopp’d there, and not to have gone, as he did, into _Holland_, to set forth another Edition, very much enlarg’d, and perhaps not so true, which he dedicated to _William_ the Third, Prince of _Orange_, and afterwards King of _Great Britain_. An Action for a Religious Man no less ridiculous than extravagant, not to give it a worse Name; for after many great and tedious Encomiums given that Protestant Prince, he exhorts and conjures him to turn his Thoughts towards those vast Countries, as yet unknown, to conquer them and send Colonies thither, to make known to those Savage Nations the true God and his Worship, and to preach the Gospel. That good Religious Man, whom many have falsly thought, on Account of that Extravagancy, to have renounc’d his Religion, did not consider what he said, and consequently has scandaliz’d the Catholicks, and furnish’d the _Hugonots_ with Matter of Laughter; for it is likely, that they being Enemies to the _Roman_ Church, would employ Recolets to go preach up _Popery_, as they call it in _Canada_? Or would they introduce any other Religion than their own? Can Father _Hennepin_ be excuseable in this Point?
[Sidenote: M. de la Sale’s _Fort taken by the_ Spaniards.]
[Sidenote: M. de Hiberville’s _Expedition for the_ Missisipi.]
In fine it appears, by all that has been writ by those several Persons concerning that Enterprize, that the Murder committed on the Person of Monsieur _de la Sale_ was the Occasion of its miscarrying; but that which obstructed the making of some Provision in that Case was, the said Murders being conceal’d for the Space of two Years, and that the _Spaniards_ of _Mexico_ having been inform’d of all the Affair, sent Men, who carry’d off the weak Garrison Monsieur _de la Sale_ had left in the Fort built by him, near the Place of his Landing, before he penetrated into the Country, to find out the _Missisipi_. They also entirely raz’d that Fort, so that Seven or Eight Years elaps’d, till Monsieur _de Hiberville_, a Gentleman of _Canada_, and a Person of Capacity and Courage, famous for his notable Expeditions to _Hudson_’s Bay and other Parts, resolv’d to reassume and revive that Project. He came over into _France_ upon that Design, and made an Armament about the Year 1698, set out and sail’d to the Gulf of _Mexico_. Being an able Seaman, he search’d along the Coast so narrowly, that he found the Mouth of that fatal _Missisipi_ and built a Fort on it, leaving Men there, with a good Quantity of Ammunition and Provisions, and return’d to _France_, intending to go back with a Reinforcement, as he did, and having penetrated far into the Country, discover’d several Savage Nations, and join’d Friendship and Alliance with them, as also built another Fort, which he left well stor’d with Men and Necessaries, return’d into _France_; but attempting a third Voyage, he dy’d by the Way, and thus, for want of Relief and Support, that noble Enterprize miscarry’d again.
[Sidenote: M. Crozat _only to plant Colonies and Trade in_ Louisiana.]
But God has now provided for it, and it is the Concern of Heaven, for if _France_ is interested on Account of the Temporal Advantages it expects, the Church is so in like Manner, for the Conversion of the _Indians_ it hopes will follow. Accordingly, Providence has taken the Affair in Hand, having rais’d the Man, who is the fittest to revive and support so important a Project. This is _Monsieur Crozat_, Secretary to the King, a Man of singular Worth, very Intelligent, Well-meaning, and prodigiously Rich, who without going out of his Closet, has been the Occasion of many notable Voyages by Sea, and all of them successful. To him, his Majesty, by his Letters Patent, bearing Date the _14th of Septemb. 1712_, has granted the sole Power to trade and settle Colonies in the Countries describ’d in this Journal, and which are known to us by the Name of _Louisiana_ and the River _Missisipi_, from hence forward to be call’d the River of St. _Lewis_. The Grant is made to him for 15 Years, under several Conditions mention’d in the said Letters Patent, which have been made publick.
[Sidenote: _A Black bred in_ France _turns to his Native Customs_.]
And whereas such a Grant cannot subsist without Blacks, he is also allow’d to send a Ship to _Guinea_ to purchase them. They may perhaps find there the famous Black _Aniaga_, Brother to a King of _Guinea_, whom Captain _Delbee_ brought over into _France_, above Thirty Years ago. The King was pleas’d to have him Educated, Instructed and Baptiz’d, the _Dauphin_[126] being his Godfather; then put him into his Troop of Musquetiers, and afterwards made him a Captain in his own Regiment, where he serv’d Honourably. Being desirous to see his own Country again, where he promis’d to promote the _French_ Trade, and the settling of Missioners, his Majesty loaded him with Presents, and order’d a Ship to carry him back to _Guinea_; but as soon as he was there, he no longer remember’d he had been baptiz’d, and turn’d again as perfect a Black, as he had been before. A Friend of mine, who was an Officer aboard a Ship, and hapned to be on that Coast in the Year 1708, had two or three Interviews with that Black, who came aboard him. He was a great Man in that Country, for his Brother was King. He express’d much Gratitude for the Kindness that had been shewn him in _France_, and was extraordinary Courteous, and made great Offers to those aboard the Ship, and to all such of the Nation as would go into _Guinea_.
This Navigation to _Louisiana_ will farther procure us a free Resort to the two famous Ports of the Gulf of _Mexico_, _viz._ The _Havana_ and _Veracruz_, where Strangers did not use to be admitted, and which we knew only by their Names and their Situation in our Maps.
[Sidenote: Veracruz _in New_ Spain.]
The latter of those Towns is the Port of _New Spain_, at the Bottom of the Bay or Gulf, in 18 Degrees of _North_ Latitude, Seated in a Sandy Plain, encompass’d with Mountains; beyond which there are Woods and Meadows, well Stock’d with Cattle and wild Fowl: the flesh whereof is stringy and tasteless. The Air is very Hot, and not Healthy, when any Winds blow, except the _North_, which rises commonly once in Eight or Fifteen Days, and holds for the Space of Twenty Four Hours, blowing so hard, that there is no going ashore from the Ships, and then the Cold is very piercing. When the Weather is clear there plainly appear, on the Road to _Mexico_, two Mountains rising above the Clouds, and forty Leagues distant, all cover’d with Snow. The Streets of _Veracruz_ are streight as a Line; the Houses are handsome and regular; the Fortifications next the Land inconsiderable, but the Front of the Town next the Sea forms a Semicircle, with a little Fort at each End. Directly before that Front, a Quarter of a League out at Sea, there stands, on a Spot of Ground, inaccessible, by Reason of the Breaking of the Sea, a strong Citadel, well built and furnished with all Necessaries, a good Garrison and double Batteries of two hundred Pieces of brass Cannon. Ships cannot anchor any where, but between that Citadel and the Town; besides that, it requires several Precautions, because it is difficult coming to an Anchor.
Most of the Inhabitants are _Mulattoes_, that is of a tawny dark Colour, who live most upon Chocolate and Sweetmeats, extraordinary sober, and eating little Flesh. The Men are haughty, the Women keep retired above Stairs, not to be seen by Strangers, and seldom going abroad, and then in Coaches or Chairs, and those who cannot reach to it, cover’d with fine silk Veils, which reach from the Crown of their Heads to their Feet, leaving only a small Opening on the Right Side,[127] for them to see their Way. In their own Apartments they wear nothing but a Smock and a silk Petticoat, with gold or silver Laces, without any Thing on their Heads, and their Hair platted with Ribbons, a gold Chain about their Neck, Bracelets of the same and Pendants of Emeralds in their Ears. They could well enough like the Behaviour and Company of the French, but that the jealous Temper of the Men obstructs them. There being a Picture of _Philip_ King of _Spain_, now reigning, aboard the Ship in which my Friend was, who gave me this Account, the People swarm’d aboard to see it, they were never satisfy’d with gazing at it, and there was a most magnificent Festival kept in the Town, on Account of the Birth of the Prince of _Asturias_.
They understand Trade very well, but are sloathful and averse to Labour, fond of State and Ease. They wear great Strings of Beads about their Necks, their Houses are full of Pictures and Images of Devotion, and they have little that is real. They are decently furnish’d with Purceline and _China_ Goods. The Churches are magnificently adorned with Plate. But the Lives and Manners of the Clergy are not Edifying. On Holidays and _Sundays_ there is no Thought of Matins, of Sermon, or of Vespers: People chat and laugh in the Churches as well as in the Processions, which are often at Night by the Light of Torches.
All Strangers are forbid Trading there, yet some come by Stealth and deal Underhand, by Means of Presents made to such Persons as can favour them. If those Mulattoes call themselves white, it is only to honour themselves and by Way of Distinction from their Slaves, who are all Blacks, and having got much Mony by their Labour, ransome themselves and sometimes become considerable Merchants.
[Sidenote: Mexico _City_.]
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Joutel's Journal of La Salle's Last Voyage, 1684-7Chapter VIII: Part 8
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