Chapter I: Part 1

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KNITTING:

HOW TO KNIT

AND

WHAT TO KNIT.

_WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS._

COMPILED AND EDITED
BY
MARIE LOUISE KERZMAN.

PUBLISHED BY
HENRY BRISTOW,
BROOKLYN, N. Y.

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1884,
BY HENRY BRISTOW,
in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, Washington, D. C.

HOW TO KNIT.

The necessary materials for knitting are either cotton, worsted, silk or thread, and knitting needles.

Stockings and all knitting worked in rounds require four knitting needles, three of which are used for holding the stitches of the work, and the fourth to knit with.

The casting on of stitches forms the beginning of knitting. It consists of loops formed around a knitting needle. Every loop will form a stitch. The number of stitches will determine the width of the object which is to be knitted.

There are five different ways of casting on stitches. For the casting on of stitches always unroll an end of the cotton long enough to work the stitches required, as this end is used in the formation of those stitches.

No. 1.—Illustration No. 1 shows the position of the cotton, ready to cast on the first stitch. Place the cotton over the thumb and first finger of the left hand, in such a way as to have the end of cotton, which must be sufficiently long for the required number of stitches, fall from the thumb toward the palm of the hand. Hold this end and the other part of the cotton with the remaining fingers of the left hand. This same position of the cotton is used in illustrations 2 and 3. Take the needle with the right hand, place it over the cotton, between the thumb and the first finger, pass it under the cotton resting around the thumb, bring it upward; then pass the needle downward, under the cotton resting on the first finger; pass this loop through the loop around the thumb, withdraw the thumb from the loop; pass the thumb under the end of the cotton, toward the palm of the hand; draw this end in order to close the stitch just formed.

No. 2—_Casting on of Single Stitches._—Begin in the same manner as described in No. 1, and make 2 stitches. Then take up on the needle the loop which is around the thumb (see illustration 2), without withdrawing the thumb, insert the needle around the cotton marked _b_ in illustration No. 2, from right to left, and draw it through loop _a_; close this stitch as already directed in No. 1, by withdrawing the thumb from loop _a_ and drawing the end of cotton.

No. 3.—This casting on of stitches requires two needles. Form the first stitch in same manner as described in No. 1. Then, with the left hand, hold the needle on which this first stitch is formed, pass the cotton over the first finger of the left hand, take a needle with the right hand, and insert the point into the loop on the left needle, wind the cotton around the point of the right needle, draw it through the loop, *insert the point of the left needle into the loop just formed on the right needle, wind the cotton around the point of the right needle, draw it through the loop. Repeat from *. See illustration 3.

No. 4—_The Casting on of a New Row of Stitches._—This casting on of stitches is generally employed in knitting with worsted, which requires a new casting on of stitches in the progress of the work. It is done by putting the worsted (see illustration No. 4) over the thumb of the left hand, holding the end between the second and third fingers, * take up the worsted around the thumb and lying toward the palm of the hand, by inserting the needle from under the worsted in an upward direction (see illustration No. 4), withdraw the thumb from the loop, pass the thumb under the end of worsted resting in the palm of the hand, and draw it to close the stitch. Repeat from *.

No. 5.—The casting on of stitches illustrated in cut No. 5 forms a narrow border after the first row has been knitted. In order to easily knit the first row, the casting on of stitches must be done on _a pair_ of knitting needles. Unroll an end long enough for the required number of stitches. Double it. Fold this doubled end in half, insert the point of the needles into the fold, place on the first finger of the left hand the long end of the worsted which is among the short ends. Place the three short ends over the thumb. Hold all these ends with the second finger. Take on the needles the ends resting on the thumb (marked _b_ in illustration), and insert them as shown in illustration No. 5. Then pass the needles through the loop on first finger, in the direction of the arrow, and pass this loop through the loop already formed on the needles, withdraw the thumb, close the stitch by drawing the three ends, which is done by passing the thumb under them.

No. 6—_Double Casting on of Stitches._—The difference between this method of casting on and the preceding is, that every knot forms, each time, two loops instead of one, on the needle. The first knot must be formed in the same manner as described in No. 5. In order to work the second knot, insert once more the needle into the loop of three ends which rest on the thumb, marked _a_ in illustration No. 6. The arrow, in same illustration, shows where to insert the needle and the direction it has to take. This done, insert the needle downward into loop _b_, and draw the latter through loop resting on the thumb, withdraw the thumb and close the knot. Every loop on the needle must be knitted separately at the first row.

WHAT TO KNIT.

Cut No. 7 illustrates plain knitting. This is the stitch generally used in ordinary knitting. First, cast on the required number of stitches in one of the ways already described. This done, take in the left hand the needle on which are the loops, place the thread over the first finger of the left hand, hold it with the second finger of the same hand. Take the second needle with the right hand, insert its point into the stitch, in an upward direction, and throw the thread around the right hand needle, from right to left. Draw it through the preceding loop and slip the left hand needle from its loop. Every loop on the left hand needle is worked in the same manner.

When all the stitches have been worked from the left hand needle, take that needle in the right hand and continue to work in same manner.

To _Pearl_, _Purl_ or _Seam_, (meaning the same thing), is done by holding with the left hand a needle on which a row of stitches has been cast. Take a needle in the right hand, place the cotton over the left hand needle and the first finger of the left hand, hold the end with the second finger of the same hand. Insert the right hand needle through the loop on the left hand needle, point right to left, in such a manner as to have the cotton just under the right hand needle. Pull this cotton through the loop, withdraw the left hand needle from the loop, and the purled stitch is formed.

_How to Repair a Stitch which has been Half Knitted, or Dropped while Knitting._—In knitting, one ought to be careful not to drop stitches or to form half stitches. The latter happens when the thread thrown over the right hand needle has not been pulled through the loop of the left hand needle. To remedy this, while working the next round or row, take the thread which has been thrown over the needle from it, and pull it through the loop of the stitch. To repair a dropped stitch, insert the left needle into the stitch, gather all the threads on the right hand needle and pull them through the loop of the stitch, one after the other.

_To Increase._—There are two ways to increase. The first is, to knit both in the lower part of the stitch and also in the stitch itself. The second way is to bring the cotton forward round the end of the right needle, to the front; this forms a loop on the right needle when the next stitch is knitted, and this extra loop is the made stitch. It is preferable to increase after the first manner in plain knitting, as this way of increasing is not so marked. The second manner is used in fancy knitting, as it leaves a little opening after the stitch is formed.

_To Slip a Stitch_ is to take a stitch off the left needle and to _slip_ it on to the right needle without knitting.

With any work knitted in rows, it is necessary that the first stitch of every row be worked as a slipped stitch. If it is a row of _purl_, the first stitch must be slipped off as if it were plain knitting; if it is a row of _plain_ knitting, slip the first stitch off as if it were purl knitting.

_How to Narrow._—The usual way of narrowing is to knit two stitches together, viz.: put the right needle through two of the loops on the left needle, and knit them as one stitch. Another method is to slip a stitch, knit one, and then with the left needle cast the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch. When the narrowing is used to give a certain shape to the work, it is well to employ the first method when narrowing at the end of the round or row; and the second method when narrowing at the beginning of it.

_Casting Off_ is done as follows: Knit two plain stitches, with the left needle throw the first stitch over the second, knit a third stitch, throw the second over the third, knit a fourth, throw the third over the fourth, and so on until the last stitch is worked. Pull the cotton through, and a knot is formed.

_The Joining of Ends_ in knitting ought never to be done by knotting them together. It may be done so that no defect is visible on the right side of the work, by lapping them three inches together, and knitting five inches with doubled thread, leaving the ends on the wrong side of the work. These ends can then be neatly darned into the wrong side of the work.

LADY’S STOCKING.

To knit a stocking, attention must be given to the size of the knitting needles, which ought to correspond with the number of the material with which the stocking is to be knitted. It would be difficult to give the exact number of stitches necessary for any given size of stocking, as there is always a difference between the knitting of different persons, since some knit loosely, others very closely. It must be left to the judgment of the knitter to determine the exact number of stitches required for the stocking to be knitted.

The following is the method of knitting a lady’s stocking with No. 300 knitting silk (or any other material of same size), with needles to correspond.

This stocking is knitted, with a double border, as follows:

Cast on 152 stitches on 3 needles. After having cast on the last stitch, close the round by knitting the _first_ stitch cast on.

Knit 16 rounds plain.

17th Round.—* Slip 1, knit 1, draw the slip stitch over the knitted stitch, make 1; repeat from * to end of round.

18th to 34th Rounds, inclusive.—Knit plain.

Then fold in half the piece knitted, so that the 17th round will form the edge of the border.

Pick up on other knitting needles the stitches of the 1st round, _i. e._, the stitches cast on, and knit each of them with each stitch of the 34th round. This finishes the border. Thus, the lower edge of the border forms a fancy design of small scallops. Purl 3 rounds, knit plain 3 rounds, purl 3 rounds.

Then knit plain until the leg of the stocking is twelve inches long. In the first round of _this_ plain knitting begin the seam stitch, which ought to correspond with the last and first stitches cast on. This seam stitch is repeated in every third round.

After the twelve inches have been knitted, narrow in the following round 1 stitch on each side of the seam. Knit 8 rounds. Narrow 1 stitch on each side of seam. Knit 7 rounds. Narrow, in manner already described. Knit 6 rounds. Narrow. Knit 5 rounds. * Narrow. Knit 4 rounds. Repeat 20 times from * until 110 stitches and the 2 seam stitches are left on the needles. This done, knit plain 30 rounds. The knitting of the heel now begins. Divide the stitches by putting on 1 needle the 2 seam stitches and 28 stitches on each side of them. Thus, there will be upon this needle 58 stitches. Knit this needle, backward and forward, in _rows_, making the seam stitches as usual.

When knitting backward, purl _all_ these stitches. When knitting forward, knit plain all the stitches with exception of the seam stitch, which must be purled. Always slip the first knitted stitch. Continue knitting until the flap is 44 rows long, counting each time across as 1 row.

1st Row.—Now purl from the left hand side the 28 stitches and the 2 seam stitches. Purl 2, knit 2 together, purl 1. Turn.

2d Row.—Slip 1, 3 plain, 2 purl (seam stitches), 2 plain, knit 2 together, 1 plain. Turn.

3d Row.—Slip 1, purl 8 (including seam stitches), purl 2 together, purl 1. Turn.

4th Row.—Slip 1, 4 plain, 2 purl (seam stitches), 3 plain, knit 2 together, 1 plain. Turn.

5th Row.—Slip 1, purl 10 (seam stitch included), purl 2 together, purl 1. Turn.

Continue to knit in this wise until the remaining stitches are gradually worked off. Then pick up the side stitches of this flap, which amount to 36 on each side, and the heel is formed.

Knit the side stitches of the flap, “making 1” now and then, so as to make the number of stitches on each side of the heel amount to 40.

Knit again in rounds. After every 2 rounds purl the first 2 stitches together, then the last 2 stitches together, of the heel stitches. Narrow in this manner 12 times. This done, the number of stitches in the whole round is reduced to 110, _i. e._, to the original number before the beginning of the heel. Knit plain 50 rounds. Commence narrowing of toe as follows: * knit 2 together, knit 8 plain. Repeat from * to end of round. Knit 8 rounds plain. * Knit 2 together, knit 7 plain. Repeat from * to end of round. Knit 7 rounds plain. Knit 2 together, knit 6 plain, knit 2 together, 6 plain, etc., to end of round.

Knit 6 rounds plain; knit 2 together, 5 plain, 2 together, 5 plain, etc., to end of round.

Knit 5 rounds plain; knit 2 together, 4 plain, 2 together, 4 plain, etc., to end of round.

Knit 4 rounds plain; knit 2 together, 3 plain, 2 together, 3 plain, etc., to end of round.

Knit 3 rounds plain; knit 2 together, 2 plain, 2 together, 2 plain, etc., to end of round.

Knit 2 rounds plain; knit 2 together, 1 plain, 2 together, 1 plain, etc., to end of round.

Knit 1 round plain.

11 stitches now remain. By means of a darning needle, slip these stitches upon the silk thread with which the knitting is done. Pass this silk once more through the stitches, then draw all the stitches together, by pulling the silk thread. Fasten the thread on the wrong side of the stocking.

HEELS OF STOCKINGS.

There are three other ways of knitting a stocking-heel, as illustrations 9, 10 and 11 show. In the directions for knitting these heels, the same number of stitches is taken as in the directions for knitting the heel of “lady’s stocking,” _i. e._, 28 stitches on each side of the 2 seam stitches, thus leaving 54 for the front of the foot.

_Heel No. 9._—Knit 44 rows backward (purling) and forward (plain). While knitting these rows, make a seam stitch on each side of the flap. These 2 seams must correspond with the seam in the center of the flap. See illustration No. 9.

When the 44 rows have been knitted, the rounding of the heel begins. Knit from right hand side 19 stitches (including the side seam stitch), knit 2 together, knit 14 plain (center seam stitch inclusive), slip 1, knit 1 plain, draw the slip stitch over the 1 plain. Knit 5 plain. Turn. Slip 1, purl 25. Turn. Slip 1, knit 3 plain, knit 2 together, knit 14 plain, slip 1, knit 1 plain, draw the slip stitch over the 1 plain, knit 5 plain. Turn. Slip 1, purl 25.

Continue working thus to the end of cap, alternating every time each row in same manner as described. When the heel is finished, 26 stitches must remain on the needle.

_Heel No. 10._—This heel is knitted partly in rounds with the front of the foot, and partly by itself in rows. Divide the stitches evenly on 4 needles, and knit in rounds with a fifth needle. After every 2 rounds “make 1,” just before knitting the first of the stitches belonging to the heel, and “make 1” after having knitted them. Repeat this 13 times.

This done, begin the cap of the heel. Put on a special needle the 12 middle stitches (6 on each side of the seam stitch), and knit these in _rows_, forward and backward, until 16 rows have been worked. Narrow at the end of each of these rows, in knitting the last stitch of the row together with the first of the remaining stitches on the next needle, then knit the following stitch and turn.

Knit 16 rows more without narrowing, but at the end of each row knit 1 of the stitches remaining on the next needle, and then turn to knit the following row.

When this is done, continue to knit in rows, and narrow again at the end of each row by knitting the last stitch of each row together with one of the remaining stitches on the next needle; then turn and knit the following row. When the remaining stitches have all been narrowed into the heel, then begin to knit the foot in rounds.

_Heel No. 11._—To work this heel, knit a flap of a good length in rows, backward and forward. Then put on a special needle the 22 stitches in the center, 11 on each side of the seam stitch, and knit these in rows, backward and forward. In every _plain_ row knit the 4th and 5th stitches together, and then the 19th and 20th stitches together. At the end of _every row_ knit 1 of the remaining stitches. When all these remaining stitches have been worked, then pick up the side stitches of the flap, and the heel is finished.

HOW TO KNIT THE TOE OF A STOCKING.

No. 12.—This toe is worked as follows: Narrow after every 7 stitches, in the first round to be narrowed. Then knit 7 rounds plain. Narrow in the following round after every 6 stitches. Knit 6 rounds plain. Narrow in the next round after every 5 stitches. Knit 5 rounds plain. Continue working in such manner, always knitting 1 stitch less between the narrowings in every new round which is to be narrowed, and always knitting after every round narrowed the same number of plain rounds as the number of stitches knitted between the narrowings of this last round narrowed.

No. 13.—Before beginning to decrease this toe, divide the stitches evenly on 4 needles. Then narrow at the beginning of every needle; slip the first stitch, knit the next one, and draw the slipped stitch over the knitted one. After _each_ of the first 4 narrowed rounds knit 4 rounds plain. After _each_ of the next 4 narrowed rounds knit 3 rounds plain. After _each_ of the following 4 narrowed rounds knit 2 rounds plain, and after _each_ of the following 4 narrowed rounds knit 1 round plain. Then continue to narrow at the beginning of every needle to end of toe.

No. 14.—The narrowing of this toe is done as follows: Divide equally on 4 needles the number of stitches. Then begin the first round of narrowing by purling 2 together at the beginning of every needle. This round is followed by 4 rounds plain. In all the narrowing rounds that follow the first one, decrease once on each side of the preceding narrowing. After every narrowed round knit 4 rounds plain. Knit in all, 11 narrowing rounds. Then finish off the toe by narrowing only once at the end of _each_ needle, by slipping 1 stitch, knitting the next, and drawing the slipped stitch over the knitted one.

TO RENEW THE HEEL AND SOLE OF STOCKINGS KNITTED BY HAND.

Illustrations 15 to 18 show the manner of doing this. To renew the heel of a stocking, first remove the damaged heel by cutting along the sides of the heel, at the end of the cap and at the beginning of the heel. Make even the stitches belonging to the parts from which the heel has just been cut. Take up these stitches on 5 needles, as illustrated in cut No. 15. Take up on 2 needles the stitches belonging to the heel. Then take up the side stitches (each side) on 1 needle. The remaining stitches belong to the fifth needle, that is, those which will serve for the joining of the cap of the heel. Then, with the stitches belonging to the heel, begin to knit the heel in rows, to and fro. But, at the end of every plain row, always knit the last stitch of the row together (plain) with the next stitch on the side needle. The same must be done at the end of every purled row, only the last stitch with the next stitch on the side needle have to be _purled_ together, instead of knitted plain. When the heel has reached the required length, then begin to knit the cap of the heel in the usual way, until the number of stitches corresponds to the number of stitches of the fifth needle. Join these 2 rows of stitches together, as illustrated in cut No. 16. This is done by darning. Take an end of the cotton long enough for this purpose, and pass it, by means of a darning needle, downward through the last stitch of the stocking, and through the first one of the stitches on the fifth needle, or upper row. Then pass it through the next 2 corresponding stitches of the cap of the heel. See illustration No. 17, which shows the needle inserted in the 2 stitches through which the cotton is to be drawn. Pass the needle through the next 2 corresponding stitches of the upper row, in the same direction as is shown by the arrow in illustration No. 17. From there * pass it through the last stitch, already worked, of the lower row, and through next stitch; then through the next 2 corresponding stitches of the upper row. Slip every time the stitch from the knitting needle after having passed the cotton through them. Repeat from * until all the stitches of the 2 rows are joined to each other. When this is done, fasten the cotton on the wrong side of the stocking by drawing it through a few stitches.

Illustration No. 17 represents only a part of the joining, where the stitches are worked very loosely, in order that it might be copied more easily. Yet, while working, the stitches of the joining must be drawn to the same size as the knitted stitches of the stocking, and in such a manner that the joining cannot be detected from the knitting.

No. 18—_How to Re-sole the Foot of a Stocking_.—In order to do this, a new heel must first be knitted to the stocking in the usual way. When this is done, pick up the side stitches of the heel and begin to knit the sole in _rows_, to and fro, 1 row plain, the other purled. At the end of every plain row pick up the last stitch of the _corresponding_ row of the old sole, and knit it together, plain, with the last stitch of row just knitted. The same thing must be done at the end of every purled row, only purl the 2 stitches together instead of knitting them plain together. Always slip, plain, the first stitch of every row.

The narrowing of the sole, on both sides, must be done just before knitting together the last stitch of the row and the last stitch of the corresponding row of the old sole.

After the new sole has been knitted, turn the stocking on the wrong side; cut off the old sole along both sides, yet leaving a strip of 4 stitches in width on each side. Lay each strip towards the front part of the foot. Unravel them. Smooth down the ends formed by the unraveling, and fasten them to the stocking by darning over them lightly, so that this darning might not be seen on the right side of the stocking. Should the stocking require a new toe to be knitted on, then unravel the old one, pick up the stitches and knit a new toe in rounds, in one of the ways already described in the book.

HOW TO DARN STOCKINGS.

The darning of a stocking can be done in different ways. The way most generally adopted is that of cross-work darning, which looks very well when neatly worked. But the darning in imitation of the knitted stitch, although more tedious, is preferable; for, when it is well worked, it cannot be told from the knitting, except on the wrong side.

No. 19—_Cross-Work Darning_.—Trim neatly the place which is to be darned, then work a foundation of threads length-wise across the opening, as is shown in illustration No. 19. This done, begin to darn across this foundation, in rows, to and fro, by taking up every other thread of the foundation. In every following row take up the thread which was not taken up in the preceding row. See illustration No. 19. The darning must be prolonged to a little distance on each side of the original opening.

No. 20—_To Imitate the Knitted Stitch in Darning_.—This work requires careful preparation. Loosen the damaged part, above and below it, in the width, in such a way that there will remain 2 even rows of perfect loose stitches. The first and last stitches of the upper row must correspond to those of the lower row. Cut the damaged part through the middle. Fold each half back upon the inside of the stocking, where it will have to be trimmed and fastened. Work a foundation of threads across the opening, width-wise, inserting each thread into the second stitch from the edge of the opening, and making it correspond with every knitted row. See illustration No. 20.

Then work on this foundation as follows: Place the darning cotton at the left, pass the darning needle downward under the lowest of the threads of foundation, and pull gently the darning cotton, so as to form the half of a stitch. Work in same manner on the other foundation threads. After making the half stitch upon the top thread of foundation, pass the needle through the nearest upper stitch of the stocking. Turn the work. Place the darning cotton towards the right. Pass the needle downward, under the top thread of foundation, draw the cotton lightly, and in this way the first whole stitch will be formed. Continue to work in same manner on the foundation threads, until the entire work is done.

Illustrations 21 to 23 show a different way of imitating the knitted plain stitch in darning.

To darn after this method, remove the damaged part and prepare the opening for foundation threads in same manner as already described in preceding number. Take for foundation thread a cotton finer than the one with which the darning stitches have to be worked. Work the foundation threads _length-wise_ on the wrong side of the stocking, as shown in illustration No. 21. This done, turn the stocking on the right side and begin the darning in imitation of the knitted stitch. Work width-wise, as follows:

Pass the darning needle through the upper 2 stitches, as shown in illustration No. 22, then pass it, in the direction of the arrow, under the next 2 threads of foundation. Insert the needle into the last stitch, through which it has already passed, and pass it through the stitch next to it. Then pass it under the next 2 corresponding threads of foundation. Continue working in like manner. When the end of the row is reached, work in same stitch over the next 3 stitches of the knitting.

After working over the third stitch, insert the needle downward—along the part which is not yet darned—into the upper part of that third stitch, take up the cross bar of the stitch and draw the cotton through. Then turn the work from left to right and begin the next row. When the work has come down to the lower edge of the opening, work the last row in the usual way; but, instead of passing the needle under the foundation threads, pass it through the corresponding stitches of this edge, as is shown in illustration No. 23.

When the darning is done, withdraw carefully the foundation threads. Trim the damaged part on the wrong side of the stocking, and fasten it neatly, as already stated in directions No. 20.

BORDERS FOR STOCKINGS.

No. 24.—Cast on a number of stitches divisible by 7. The first 5 rounds knit plain.

6th round.—Make 1, knit 2 together, plain, alternately to end of round.

7th to 11th rounds.—Alternate 1 purl, 1 plain.

12th round.—Pick up on other knitting needles the stitches of the first round (the stitches cast on) and knit each of them with each stitch of the 11th round.

13th, 14th and 15th rounds.—Purl.

16th round.—* Make 1, purl 2 together, 5 plain. Repeat from * to end of round.

17th round.—Knit plain.

18th round.—* Make 1, 1 plain, purl 2 together, 4 plain. Repeat from *.

19th round.—Knit plain.

20th round.—* Make 1, 2 plain, purl 2 together, 3 plain. Repeat from *.

21st round.—Knit plain.

22d round.—* Make 1, 3 plain, purl 2 together, 2 plain. Repeat from *.

23d round.—Knit plain.

24th round.—* Make 1, 4 plain, purl 2 together, 1 plain. Repeat from *.

25th round.—Knit plain.

26th round.—* Make 1, 5 plain, purl 2 together. Repeat from *.

27th round.—Knit plain.

28th round.—* 2 plain, purl 2 together, make 1, 3 plain. Repeat from *.

29th round.—Knit plain.

30th round.—* 1 plain, purl 2 together, 1 plain, make 1, 3 plain. Repeat from *.

31st round.—Knit plain.

32d round.—* Purl 2 together, 2 plain, make 1, 3 plain. Repeat from *.

33d round.—Knit plain.

In rounds 34, 36 and 38, slip 1 stitch of the last needle upon the first needle, and purl that stitch with the following stitch together.

34th round.—* Purl 2 together, 3 plain, make 1, 2 plain. Repeat from *.

35th round.—Knit plain.

36th round.—* Purl 2 together, 4 plain, make 1, 1 plain. Repeat from *.

37th round.—Knit plain.

38th round.—* Purl 2 together, 5 plain, make 1. Repeat from *.

For Border No. 25 cast on a number of stitches divisible by 8. Knit 8 rounds plain.

9th round.—* Slip 1, 1 plain, draw the slipped stitch over the 1 plain, make 1. Repeat from * to end of round.

10th to 17th rounds.—Knit plain.

18th round.—Pick up on other needles the stitches of the first round (that is, the stitches cast on) and knit each of them with each stitch of the 17th round. Then begin the design.

1st round.—* Purl 2, make 1, 4 plain, knit 2 together, plain. Repeat from * to end of round.

2d round.—* Purl 2, 1 plain, make 1, 3 plain, knit 2 together, plain. Repeat from *.

3d round.—* Purl 2, 2 plain, make 1, 2 plain, knit 2 together, plain. Repeat from *.

4th round.—* Purl 2, 3 plain, make 1, 1 plain, knit 2 together, plain. Repeat from *.

5th round.—* Purl 2, 4 plain, make 1, knit 2 together, plain. Repeat from *.

Repeat this design twice and then work the following 2 rounds like the 9th and 10th rounds, already described.

Border No. 26.—Cast on a number of stitches divisible by 8. Knit the lower edge of the design as described in preceding number. Then work the design as follows:

1st round.—* Purl 3, make 1, knit 2 together, plain, 3 plain. Repeat from *.

2d round.—* Purl 3, make 1, 1 plain, knit 2 together, plain, 2 plain. Repeat from *.

3d round.—* Purl 3, make 1, 2 plain, knit 2 together, plain, 1 plain. Repeat from *.

4th round.—* 3 Purl, make 1, 3 plain, knit 2 together, plain. Repeat from *.

5th round.—* Purl 3, 3 plain, knit 2 together, plain, make 1. Repeat from *.

6th round.—* Purl 3, 2 plain, knit 2 together, plain, 1 plain, make 1. Repeat from *.

7th round.—* Purl 3, 1 plain, knit 2 together, plain, 2 plain, make 1. Repeat from *.

8th round.—* Purl 3, knit 2 together, plain, 3 plain, make 1. Repeat from *.

Repeat this design until the desired breadth of border is reached.

No. 27.—The lower edge of this border is scalloped and worked as follows:

Cast on the number of stitches required for the stocking.

Knit 4 rounds plain.

5th round.—* Make 1, knit 2 together, plain. Repeat from * to end of round.

Knit plain the next 4 rounds.

Then pick up on other needles the stitches of the first round (that is, the stitches cast on) and knit each of these stitches with each of the stitches of the ninth round. Begin the design.

1st round.—* Make 1, 1 twist stitch (knitted from the back), knit 2 together in twist stitch, purl 1. Repeat from *.

2d round.—* 3 plain—the first of the 3 is formed from the newly made stitch in the last round—purl 1. Repeat from * to end of round.

The design consists of these 2 rounds, which are alternately repeated until the border has reached its desired breadth. Finish the border with 2 rounds of purled stitches.

No. 28.—Cast on a number of stitches divisible by 13.

1st round.—1 twist stitch, purl 1, 1 twist stitch, purl 3. In the following 4 stitches the 1st and 4th must be crossed by knitting first the 4th stitch plain, so that it will lay over the 1st one; then, purl the 2d and 3d; knit the 1st stitch plain. This done, purl 3. Repeat from *.

2d round.—* 1 twist stitch, 1 plain, 1 twist stitch, 3 purl, 1 plain, 2 purl, 1 plain, 3 purl. Repeat from *. Knit 4 rounds more like this second round; but from now on the 1 plain worked between the 2 twist stitches must, in 1 round, alternate with 1 plain, and in the other with 1 purl.

Then repeat again from 1st round.

No. 29.—Cast on a number of stitches divisible by 7.

1st round.—* 5 purl, make 1, purl 2 together. Repeat from *.

2d to 7th rounds.—* 6 purl, 1 plain. Repeat from *. The 1 plain in the second round is formed by knitting plain the 1 made stitch of the first round.

Repeat so that every other design will correspond. See illustration No. 29.

No. 30.—Cast on a number of stitches divisible by 21. Knit in rounds as follows:

1st round.—* Make 1, 1 twist stitch. Alternate 5 times: 3 purl, 1 twist stitch. Repeat from *.

2d round.—* 1 plain. Alternate 5 times: 1 twist stitch, 3 purl. Then work 1 twist stitch. Repeat from *.

3d round.—* Make 1, 1 plain, make 1, 1 twist stitch. Alternate 5 times: 3 purl, 1 twist stitch. Repeat from *.

4th round.—* 3 plain. Alternate 5 times: 1 twist stitch, 1 purl, narrow (_i. e._, purl 2 together). Then work 1 twist stitch. Repeat from *.

5th round.—* Make 1, 1 plain, make 1, narrow plain, make 1, 1 twist stitch. Alternate 5 times: 2 purl, 1 twist stitch. Repeat from *.

6th round.—* 5 plain. Alternate 5 times: 1 twist stitch, 2 purl. Then 1 twist stitch. Repeat from *.

7th round.—* Make 1, narrow, make 1, 1 plain, make 1, narrow, make 1, 1 twist stitch. Alternate 5 times: narrow, 1 twist stitch. Repeat from *.

8th round.—* 7 plain. Alternate 5 times: 1 twist stitch, 1 purl. Then 1 twist stitch. Repeat from *.

9th round.—* Make 1, narrow, make 1, narrow, make 1, 1 plain, make 1, narrow, make 1, 1 twist stitch. Alternate 5 times: 1 purl, 1 twist stitch. Repeat from *.

10th round.—* 9 plain. Alternate 5 times: 1 twist stitch, 1 purl. Then 1 twist stitch. Repeat from *.

11th round.—* Make 1, narrow, make 1, narrow, make 1, narrow, make 1, 1 plain stitch, make 1, narrow, make 1, 1 twist stitch. Alternate 5 times: 1 purl, 1 twist stitch. Repeat from *.

12th round.—* 11 plain. Alternate 5 times: 1 twist stitch, 1 purl. Then work 1 twist stitch. Repeat from *.

13th round.—* Make 1, narrow, make 1, narrow, make 1, 1 plain, make 1, narrow, make 1, narrow, make 1, narrow, make 1, 1 twist stitch. Alternate 5 times: 1 purl, 1 twist stitch. Repeat from *.

14th round.—* 13 plain, 1 twist stitch. Narrow 5 times in twist stitch. Repeat from *.

15th round.—* Alternate 3 times: make 1, narrow. Then make 1, 1 plain. Alternate 3 times: make 1, narrow. Then make 1, 6 twist stitches. Repeat from *.

16th round.—15 plain. Knit on a special needle the following 6 stitches, then wind the cotton 4 times, just below, around the 6 stitches just knitted. Slip the 6 stitches on the working needle. Knit plain the next 15 stitches, etc.

Repeat the design from first round, but in such a manner as to form pattern shown in illustration No. 30.

No. 31.—Cast on a number of stitches divisible by 5. Knit plain the first 5 rounds.

6th round.—* Make 2, narrow 2 stitches. Repeat from *.

7th round.—* With the 2 made stitches of last round alternate 1 plain, 1 purl. Work 1 plain. Repeat from *.

8th to 11th rounds.—Alternate to end of round, 2 purl, 1 plain.

12th round.—Pick up on special needles the stitches of 1st round (_i. e._, the stitches cast on), and knit each of them with each stitch of the 11th round.

13th round.—Make 1, knit 2 together, plain, alternately to end of round.

14th round.—Knit plain.

15th and 16th rounds.—Purl.

17th round.—Knit plain.

18th round.—* 3 purl, knit 2 together, plain, make 1. Repeat from *.

19th to 21st rounds.—3 purl, 2 plain, alternately to end of round.

22d round.—* 3 purl, make 1, narrow. Repeat from *.

23d to 25th rounds.—* 3 purl, 2 plain. Repeat from *.

Repeat from 18th to 25th rounds, inclusive, until the required breadth of border is reached.

No. 32.—Cast on a number of stitches divisible by 9.

1st to 3d rounds.—Purl.

4th round.—* 2 plain, purl 2 together twice, 2 plain, make 1, 1 plain, make 1. Repeat from *.

5th round.—* 2 plain, 2 purl, 5 plain. Repeat from *.

Alternate 12 times the 4th and 5th rounds.

No. 33.—Cast on a number of stitches divisible by 8.

1st round.—* 8 plain, make 1 plain by knitting the thread connecting the 8th and 9th stitches. Repeat from * to end of round.

2d and 3d rounds.—* 8 plain, slip 1 stitch, viz.: the stitch which has been formed from the thread connecting the 8th and 9th stitches of last round. Repeat from *.

4th round.—* Knit 2 together, plain, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1 plain, viz.: the stitch which was slipped in the 2 last rounds. Repeat from *.

5th to 7th rounds.—8 purl, 1 plain, alternately to end of round.

Repeat the design from 1st to 7th rounds, inclusive; but, instead of making in the 1st round 1 plain by knitting the connecting thread, slip the stitch coming after the 8 plain.

FANCY DESIGNS FOR KNITTING.

No. 34.—This design is worked on 2 needles, in rows, to and fro. Cast on 27 stitches.

1st row.—1 slip stitch, 2 plain, make 1, narrow (_i. e._, knit 2 together, plain), make 1, 3 plain, 1 purl, 2 plain, narrow, 1 purl, narrow, 2 plain, 1 purl, 3 plain, make 1, 2 plain, make 1, narrow, 1 plain.

2d row.—1 slip stitch, 2 plain, make 1, narrow, 4 purl, 1 plain, 3 purl, 1 plain, 3 purl, 1 plain, 4 purl, 2 plain, make 1, narrow, 1 plain.

3d row.—1 slip stitch, 2 plain, make 1, narrow, make 1, 1 plain, make 1, narrow, 1 plain, 1 purl, 1 plain, narrow, 1 purl, narrow, 1 plain, 1 purl, 1 plain, narrow, make 1, 1 plain, make 1, 2 plain, make 1, narrow, 1 plain.

4th row.—1 slip stitch, 2 plain, make 1, narrow, 5 purl, 1 plain, 2 purl, 1 plain, 2 purl, 1 plain, 5 purl, 2 plain, make 1, narrow, 1 plain.

5th row.—1 slip stitch, 2 plain, make 1, narrow, make 1, 3 plain, make 1, narrow, 1 purl, narrow, 1 purl, narrow, 1 purl, narrow, make 1, 3 plain, make 1, 2 plain, make 1, narrow, 1 plain.

6th row.—1 slip stitch, 2 plain, make 1, narrow, 6 purl, 1 plain, 1 purl, 1 plain, 1 purl, 1 plain, 6 purl, 2 plain, make 1, narrow, 1 plain.

7th row.—1 slip stitch, 2 plain, make 1, narrow, make 1, 5 plain, make 1, knit 3 together, 1 purl, knit 3 together, make 1, 5 plain, make 1, 2 plain, make 1, narrow, 1 plain.

8th row.—1 slip stitch, 2 plain, make 1, narrow, 8 purl, 1 plain, 8 purl, 2 plain, make 1, narrow, 1 plain.

Repeat the design from 1st to 8th rows, inclusive.

No. 35.—1st row.—Knit plain.

2d row.—* 2 purl, knit 2 together, plain, in twist stitch, make 1. Repeat from *.

3d row.—Knit plain.

4th row.—* 2 purl, make 1, knit 2 together, plain, in twist stitch.

No. 36.—For this design cast on the number of stitches required for the length of the work. Knit in rows, as follows:

1st row.—Plain.

2d row.—* Knit 3 together, plain, make 3 (_i. e._, knit in the next stitch 1 plain, 1 purl, 1 plain). Repeat from *.

3d row.—Knit plain.

4th row.—* Make 3 (_i. e._, knit in next stitch 1 plain, 1 purl, 1 plain), knit 3 together, plain. Repeat from *.

Then begin again from 1st row.

No. 37.—1st row.—* 1 plain, make 1, knit 2 together, plain. Repeat from *.

2d row.—* Make 1, knit 2 together, plain (_i. e._, knit together the next stitch and the made stitch of last row), 1 purl.

No. 38.—This pretty design is worked in rows, to and fro, as follows:

1st to 3d rows.—3 plain, 3 purl, alternately to end of row.

4th row.—* 3 purl, make 1, knit 3 together, plain, make 1. Repeat from *.

Then repeat again from 1st row.

No. 39.—Cast on the required number of stitches, and knit in plain and purled rows as follows:

1st row.—Slip 1 stitch, * knit 3 together, plain, make 1. Repeat from *.

2d row.—Purl; but, in every new made stitch of last row, knit 1 purl, 1 plain, 1 purl.

3d row.—Knit plain.

4th row.—Purl.

Repeat the design from 1st row, but in such a way as to make the designs alternate, as in illustration No. 39.

No. 40.—Cast on (as described in No. 5) a number of stitches divisible by 10. Purl 2 rounds, knit 1 round plain. Begin the design as follows:

1st round.—* 1 plain, make 1, 1 slip stitch, 1 plain, draw the slipped stitch over the 1 plain, 5 purl, knit 2 together, plain, make 1. Repeat from *.

2d round.—* 3 plain, 5 purl, 2 plain. Repeat from *.

3d round.—* 1 plain, make 1, 1 plain, slip 1, 1 plain, draw slipped stitch over one plain, 3 purl, 2 together, plain, 1 plain, make 1, repeat from *.

4th round.—* 4 plain, 3 purl, 3 plain. Repeat from *.

5th round.—* 1 plain, make 1, 2 plain, slip 1, 1 plain, draw the slipped stitch over the 1 plain, 1 purl, 2 together, plain, 2 plain, make 1. Repeat from *.

6th round.—* 5 plain, 1 purl, 4 plain. Repeat from *.

7th round.—* 1 plain, make 1, 3 plain, slip 1, 2 together, plain, draw the slipped stitch over the 2 together, plain, 3 plain, make 1. Repeat from *.

8th round.—Knit plain.

9th round.—* 3 purl, 2 together, plain, make 1, 1 plain, make 1, slip 1, 1 plain, draw the slipped stitch over the 1 plain, 2 purl. Repeat from *.

10th round.—* 3 purl, 5 plain, 2 purl. Repeat from *.

11th round.—* 2 purl, 2 together, plain, 1 plain, make 1, 1 plain, make 1, 1 plain, slip 1, 1 plain, draw the slipped stitch over the 1 plain, 1 purl. Repeat from *.

12th round.—* 2 purl, 7 plain, 1 purl. Repeat from *.

13th round.—* 1 purl, 2 together, plain, 2 plain, make 1, 1 plain, make 1, 2 plain, slip 1, 1 plain, draw the slipped stitch over the 1 plain. Repeat from *.

14th round.—* 1 purl, 9 plain. Repeat from *.

15th round.—Knit 2 together, plain, * 3 plain, make 1, 1 plain, make 1, 3 plain, slip 1, 2 together, plain, draw the slipped stitch over the 2 together, plain. Repeat from *. At the end of the round draw the last stitch over the first stitch.

16th round.—Knit plain.

No. 41.—Cast on a number of stitches divisible by 8 and knit in rows, to and fro, as follows:

1st row.—* Make 1, purl 2 together, 3 purl, purl 2 together, make 1, 1 purl. Repeat from *.

2d row.—Make 1, 2 plain, * make 1, slip 1, 1 plain, draw the slipped stitch over the 1 plain, 1 plain, knit 2 together, plain, make 1, 3 plain. Repeat from *. Make only 1 plain instead of 3 plain at the end of row.

3d row.—2 purl, * make 1, purl 3 together, make 1, 5 purl. Repeat from *. Purl only 4 instead of 5 at the end of row.

4th row.—* 3 plain, knit 2 together, plain, make 1, 1 plain, make 1, knit 2 together, plain. Repeat from *. Make 1 plain after knitting the 2 together, plain, at the end of row.

5th row.—2 purl, * make 1, 3 purl, make 1, purl 2 together, 1 purl, purl 2 together. Repeat from *. At the end of row purl only 1 instead of purling the last 2 stitches together.

6th row.—* Slip 1, knit 2 together, plain, draw the slipped stitch over the 2 together, plain, make 1, 5 plain, make 1. Repeat from *. After the last make 1, knit 2 together, plain, at the end of row.

7th row.—* 1 purl, make 1, purl 2 together, 3 purl, purl 2 together, make 1. Repeat from *. After the last make 1 at the end of row make 1 purl.

8th row.—2 plain, * make 1, slip 1, 1 plain, draw the slipped stitch over the 1 plain, 1 plain, knit 2 together, plain, make 1, 3 plain. Repeat from *. Knit only 2 plain instead of 3 plain at the end of the row.

SQUARES FOR BED SPREAD.

Nos. 42 and 43.—Cut No. 43 illustrates four of square No. 42 put together. No. 42 is worked with fine or coarse cotton in rounds.

Cast on 4 needles 8 stitches, and knit with help of a fifth needle as follows:

1st round.—Purl.

2d round.—* Make 1, 1 plain, make 1, 1 plain. Repeat from * to end of round.

3d round.—Purl.

4th round.—* Make 1. Knit in the next stitch 1 plain, 1 purl. Make 1, 3 plain. Repeat from *.

5th round.—* 1 plain, 2 purl, 1 plain, 3 purl. Repeat from *.

6th round.—* Make 1, 1 plain, 2 purl, 1 plain, make 1, 3 plain. Repeat from *.

7th round.—* 2 plain, 2 purl, 2 plain, 3 purl. Repeat from *.

8th round.—* Make 1, 2 plain, 2 purl, 2 plain, make 1, 3 plain. Repeat from *.

9th round.—* 1 purl, 2 plain, 2 purl, 2 plain, 4 purl. Repeat from *.

10th round.—* Make 1, 1 purl, 2 plain, 2 purl, 2 plain, 1 purl, make 1, 3 plain. Repeat from *.

11th round.—* 2 purl, 2 plain, 2 purl, 2 plain, 5 purl. Repeat from *.

To go with No. 42.]

Work 16 more rounds in same manner as described in 2 last rounds, until, in the 27th round, there will be 29 stitches on each needle.

28th round.—* Alternate 13 times: Make 1, knit 2 together, plain. Then make 1, 3 plain. Repeat from *.

29th round.—Purl.

Then cast off the stitches. Join the squares as illustrated in cut No. 43.

No. 44—_Square for Bed Spread_.—This square is knitted with white cotton, on 2 steel knitting needles, in rows, to and fro. Begin to knit at the corner of the square (see lowest corner in illustration 44). Cast on 3 stitches.

1st row.—Slip 1. Knit in next stitch 1 purl, 1 plain. Purl 1.

2d row.—Slip 1, 1 plain. Knit in next stitch 1 purl and 1 plain. 1 plain.

3d row.—Slip 1, purl 2. Knit in next stitch 1 purl and 1 plain. Purl 1.

4th row.—Slip 1, 2 plain, make 1, 3 plain.

5th row.—Slip 1, 2 purl, 1 plain. 3 purl.

6th row.—Slip 1, 2 plain, make 1, 1 purl, make 1, 3 plain.

7th row.—Slip 1, 2 purl, 3 plain, 3 purl.

8th row.—Slip 1, 2 plain, make 1, 3 purl, make 1, 3 plain.

9th row.—Slip 1, 2 purl, 5 plain, 3 purl.

10th row.—Slip 1, 2 plain, make 1, 5 purl, make 1, 3 plain.

11th row.—Slip 1, 2 purl, 7 plain, 3 purl.

12th row.—Slip 1, 2 plain, make 1, 7 purl, make 1, 3 plain.

13th row.—Slip 1, 2 purl, 4 plain, 1 purl, 4 plain, 3 purl.

14th row.—Slip 1, 2 plain, make 1, 4 purl, 1 plain, 4 purl, make 1, 3 plain.

15th row.—Slip 1, 2 purl, 4 plain, 3 purl, 4 plain, 3 purl.

16th row.—Slip 1, 2 plain, make 1, 4 purl, 3 plain, 4 purl, make 1, 3 plain.

17th row.—Slip 1, 2 purl, 4 plain, 5 purl, 4 plain, 3 purl.

18th row.—Slip 1, 2 plain, make 1, 4 purl, 5 plain, 4 purl, make 1, 3 plain.

19th row.—Slip 1, 2 purl, 4 plain, 3 purl, make 1, 1 plain, make 1, 3 purl, 4 plain, 3 purl.

20th row.—Slip 1, 2 plain, make 1, 4 purl, 3 plain, 3 purl, 3 plain, 4 purl, make 1, 3 plain.

21st row.—Slip 1, 2 purl, 4 plain, 4 purl, make 1, 3 plain, make 1, 4 purl, 4 plain, 3 purl.

22d row.—Slip 1, 2 plain, make 1, 4 purl, 4 plain, 5 purl, 4 plain, 4 purl, make 1, 3 plain.

23d row.—Slip 1, 2 purl, 4 plain, 5 purl, make 1, 5 plain, make 1, 5 purl, 4 plain, 3 purl.

24th row.—Slip 1, 2 plain, make 1, 4 purl, 5 plain, 7 purl, 5 plain, 4 purl, make 1, 3 plain.

25th row.—Slip 1, 2 purl, 4 plain, 6 purl, 2 plain, slip 1, knit 2 together plain, and draw the slipped stitch over them, 2 plain, 6 purl, 4 plain, 3 purl.

26th row.—Slip 1, 2 plain, make 1, 4 purl, 6 plain, 5 purl, 6 plain, 4 purl, make 1, 3 plain.

27th row.—Slip 1, 2 purl, 4 plain, 7 purl, 1 plain, slip 1, knit 2 together plain, and draw the slipped stitch over them, 1 plain, 7 purl, 4 plain, 3 purl.

28th row.—Slip 1, 2 plain, make 1, 4 purl, 7 plain, 3 purl, 7 plain, 4 purl, make 1, 3 plain.

29th row.—Slip 1, 2 purl, 4 plain, 3 purl, make 1, 1 plain, make 1, 4 purl, slip 1, knit 2 together plain, and draw the slipped stitch over them, 4 purl, make 1, 1 plain, make 1, 3 purl, 4 plain, 3 purl.

30th row.—Slip 1, 2 plain, make 1, 4 purl, 3 plain, 3 purl, 9 plain, 3 purl, 3 plain, 4 purl, make 1, 3 plain.