Chapter II: Letter XXXII: Trastevere—walls

Church of San Carlo nel Corso, 13.—Gesù e Maria, 13.—Palazzo Rondadini,
13.—Mausoleum of Augustus, 13.—Ripetta, 13.—Palazzo Borghese,
14.—Church of Sant Agostino, 14.—San Luigi de’ Francesi, 14.—Palazzo
Madama, 14.—Piazza Navona, 15.—Portico of the church of San Pantaleo,
15.—Palazzo Braschi, 15.—Pasquin, 16.—Church of Santa Maria dell’
Anima, 16.—Church of Santa Maria della Pace, 16.—Cloisters, 16.—Chiesa
Nuova, 17.—Oratorio of San Filippo Neri, 17.—San Giovanni de’
Fiorentini, 17.—Bridge of Sant Angelo, 17.—Mausoleum of Hadrian,
17.—Hospital of Spirito Santo, 18.—Porta di Spirito Santo, 18.—Church
of Sant Onofrio, 18.—Palazzo Corsini, 19.—Fontana di Ponte Sisto,
20.—Church of the Trinità de Pellegrini, 20.—Monte di Pietà,
20.—Botanic garden, 20.—Fontana Paolina, 20.—San Pietro in Montorio,
20.—Tempietto of Bramante, 21.—Santa Cecilia, 21.—Isola Tiberina,
22.—Temple of Æsculapius, 22.—Palazzo Mattei, 22.—San Carlo a’
Catinari, 22.—Santa Maria sopra Minerva, 22.—Statue of our Saviour,
23.—Porta del Popolo, 23.—Walls, 23.—Muro torto, 23.—Porta Pia,
23.—Prætorian camp, 24.—Porta San Lorenzo, 24.—Porta Maggiore,
24.—Aqueducts, 24.—Anfiteatro castrense, 25.—Porta San Giovanni,
25.—Porta Latina, 25.—Porta San Sebastiano, 25.—Porta San Paolo, 26.

LETTER XXXIII.

NEIGHBOURHOOD OF ROME.

Scenery about Rome, 27.—Casino of Raphael, 27.—Villa Borghese, 28.—Villa
Poniatowski, 28.—Villa Giulia, 28.—Acqua acetosa, 29.—Monument to St.
Andrew, 29.—Ponte Molle, 29.—Torre di Quinto, 29.—Tomb of Ovid,
30.—Villa Madama, 30.—Monte Mario, 30.—Valle d’Inferno, 30.—Porta
Angelica, 31.—Villa Albani, 31.—Ponte Salario, 31.—Ponte Lamentano,
32.—Mons Sacer, 32.—Aqueducts, 32.—Torre Pignattara, 35.—Degradation
of Roman architecture, 36.—Ruins composed of reticulated work,
36.—Torre degli Schiavi, 37.

LETTER XXXIV.

NEIGHBOURHOOD OF ROME.

Baths of Caracalla, 39.—Great Halls, 39.—Tomb of the Scipios, 40.—Arch
of Drusus, 41.—Sepulchre of Mars, 41.—Church of Domine quo vadis,
42.—Church of St. Sebastian, 42.—Catacombs, 42.—Spoliarium, 43.—Very
ancient sepulchre, 43.—Circus of Caracalla, 43.—Temple of Honour and
Virtue, 44.—Temple of the Tempest, 44.—Temple of Bacchus at the
Caffarelli, 45.—Grotto of Egeria, 45.—Temple of Rediculus,
46.—Sepulchre of Cecilia Metella, 47.—Appian Way, 48.—Roma Vecchia,
48.—Roman roads, 48.—Roman Temples, 49.—Tre Fontane, 49.—Villa
Pamfili, 49.—Workshops (Canova), 50.—Thorwaldson, 50.—Fragments of
Veii, 51.

LETTER XXXV.

TIVOLI.

Campagna, 52.—Lago de’ Tartari, 52.—Lago di Solfatara, 53.—Ponte Lucano,
54.—Plautian monument, 54.—Sepulchres of the Sereni, 54.—Hadrian’s
villa, 54.—Stage to Tivoli, 57.—Figures of Saints and Gods, 57.—Temple
of Vesta, 57.—Opus incertum, 57.—Church of St. George, 59.—Waterfall,
59.—Villas, 60.—Villa of Horace, 61.—Villa of Q. Varus, 61.—Cyclopean
Walls, 62.—Villa of V. Bassus, 64.—Vetriano, 64.—Quarries of
travertine, 64.—Aqueducts, 65.—Cascatelli, 66.—Acqua Aurea, 66.—Temple
of the World, 67.—Temple of Tosse, 67.—Villa of Mæcenas, 67.—Temple of
Hercules, 67.—Portico of Hercules, 67.—Villa d’Este, 67.

LETTER XXXVI.

SUBIACO—PALESTRINA.

Aqueducts, 68.—Road to Vico Varo, 70.—Villa of Syphax, 70.—Vico Varo,
70.—Rocca Giovane, 70.—Licenza, 71.—Fons Bandusiæ, 71.—Villa of
Horace, 72.—Convent of San Cosimato, 72.—Valley of the Anio,
72.—Subiaco, 73.—Baths of Nero, 73.—Convent of Santa Scolastica,
74.—Convent of St. Benedict, 74.—Road to Palestrina, 75.—Genezzano,
75.—Palestrina, 76.—Temple of Fortune, 76.—Cyclopean Walls, 77.—Temple
of the Sun, 77.—Villa of Constantine, 78.—Roman pavement, 78.

LETTER XXXVII.

TUSCULUM—ALBANO—OSTIA.

Procession to obtain rain, 79.—St. Peter’s toe, 79.—Frascati, 79.—Grotto
Ferrata, 80.—Tusculum, 80.—Mondragone, 81.—Sepulchre of L. V.
Corvinus, 81.—Rocca del Papa, 81.—Monte Cavo, 82.—Via triumphalis,
82.—Villa of Domitian, 83.—Villa of Pompey, 83.—Lago di Albano,
83.—Emissario, 84.—Baths of Diana, 84.—Thermæ at Albano, 85.—Tomb of
the Curiatii, 85.—Remains of the Appian way, 85.—Aricia, 85.—Lake of
Nemi, 85.—Nemi, 86.—Velletri, 86.—Cross-roads, 87.—Cora, 87.—Temple of
Hercules, 87.—Temple of Castor and Pollux, 88.—Vases found at Marino,
88.—Ostia, 90.—Mal aria, 90.—Port of Trajan, 91.—Sea-shore, 92.—Veii,
92.—Gabii, 93.—Sylva sacra, 94.—Nettuno, 94.—Antium, 94.—Ardea, 94.

LETTER XXXVIII.

JOURNEY TO FLORENCE.

Companions in journey, 95.—Church at Monte Rosi, 96.—Nepi, 96.—Cività
castellana, 96.—Poetical labourer, 97.—Otricoli, 97.—Narni, 97.—Terni,
97.—Cascade, 98.—Somma, 102.—Spoleto, 102.—Temple of Clitumnus,
103.—Foligno, 104.—Perugia, 104.—Thrasymene, 105.—Cortona, 106.—Grotto
of Pythagoras, 106.—Arezzo, 106.—Church of the Pieve, 106.—Chapel in
cathedral, 107.—Effects of slender supports, 108.—Murder, 108.

LETTER XXXIX.

MODENA—PARMA—MANTUA—FERRARA.

Boboli gardens, 110.—Cascine, 110.—Comparison of Florence and Rome,
110.—Walk to Bologna, 111.—Volcano, 111.—Boiling spring,
112.—Cathedral at Modena, 113.—Italian Gothic, 113.—Reggio, 113.—Santa
Maria di Consolazione, 113.—Parma, 114.—Cathedral, 114.—Baptistery,
114.—Paintings of Coreggio, 114.—Church of the Steccata, 114.—Academy,
115.—Palace, 115.—Language, 115.—Po, 116.—Mantua, 116.—Cathedral,
116.—Palazzo del Tè, 117.—Church of St. Sebastian, 117.—Sant Andrea,
117.—Fish-market, 118.—Ponte di Lago Scuro, 118.—Ferrara,
119.—Cathedral, 120.—Echoes, 120.—Journey to Imola, 121.—Faenza,
121.—Raphael, 121.—Agriculture, &c. 122.

LETTER XL.

RAVENNA.

Ravenna, 124.—Church of San Vittore, 124.—Spirito Santo, 125.—Church of
Santa Agata Maggiore, 125.—Monograms, 126.—San Giovanni della Sagra,
126.—San Francesco, 127.—S. Apollinare nuova, 127.—S. Apollinare at
Classe, 127.—Baptistery, 128.—Santa Maria in Cosmedim, 129.—S. Vitale,
129.—Sepulchre of Galla Placidia, 130.—Sepulchre of Theodoric,
131.—Palace of Theodoric, 132.—Library and museum, 133.—Tomb of Dante,
133.—Cathedral, 133.—Campanile, 133.—Pine wood, 133.—Rimini,
134.—Bridge of Augustus, 134.—Arch of Augustus, 134.—Cathedral,
135.—Want of patriotic feeling among the Italians, 136.—Senegaglia,
137.—Ancona, 137.—Arch of Trajan, 137.—Cathedral, 138.—Santa Maria
della Piazza Collegiata, 138.—Loreto, 139.—Piazza, 139.—Church,
139.—Holy house, 139.—Apothecary’s shop, 140.—Sermon, 140.—Miracles,
142.—Journey to Macerata, 142.—Theatre, 143.—Apennines, 143.—Return to
Rome, 144.—Roman amusements, 146.

LETTER XLI.

ACADEMIES.

Scheme of English academy, 147.—English academy, 148.—Roman academy,
149.—Milizia, 149.—Instruction to a young architect, 155.

LETTER XLII.

SPECULATIONS AT ROME.

Use of bricks, 163.—Republican edifices, 163.—Progress of ornament,
165.—Character of the Italians, 168.—Division of employment at Rome,
169.—Rome, the capital of the world, 169.—Purgatory, 172.—Present
state of Italy, 172.

LETTER XLIII.

NAPLES.

Feeling for art in Italy, 174.—Journey to Naples, 174.—Postillion
murdered, 175.—Terracina, 176.—Fondi, 177.—Itri, 177.—Sepulchre of
Cicero at Mola, 177.—Capua, 177.—Inn at Naples, 178.—Palaces,
178.—Royal palace, 178.—Theatre of San Carlo, 178.—Castello nuovo,
178.—Palace of the Studii, 179.—Cathedral, 179.—Church of Santa
Restituta, 181.—Chapel of San Gennaro, 181.—Gerolomini, 182.—Church of
St. Paul, 182.—Sangro chapel, 182.—Church of San Domenico maggiore,
183.—Santa Chiara, 183.—Trinità maggiore, 184.—Annunziata, 184.—San
Pietro ad aram, 184.—Santa Maria del Carmine, 184.—Blood of St.
Januarius, 185.—Neapolitan life, 186.—Coins, 187.—Comparison of Rome
and Naples, 189.—Toledo, 190.—Views from Naples, 190.—Chiaja,
190.—Capo di Monte, 191.—Albergo Reale de’ poveri, 191.