Chapter III: Letter XLIV: Neighbourhood of Naples

Grotto of Pausilippo, 192.—Pozzuoli, 193.—Temple of Jupiter Serapis,
193.—Temple of Neptune, 196.—Amphitheatre, 197.—Solfatara, 197.—Lake
of Agnano, 198.—Grotto del Cane, 198.—Villa of Cicero, 199.—Monte
nuovo, 199.—Arco Felice, 199.—Cuma, 199.—Amphitheatre, 199.—Lake of
Acheron, 199.—Stufe of Tritola, 200.—Baths of Nero, 200.—Lucrine Lake,
200.—Lake of Avernus, 200.—Bridge of Caligula, 201.—Bases of columns
in the sea, 201.—Campanian way, 201.—La Mergellina, 202.—Santa Maria
del parto, 202.—Hill of Pausilippo, 202.—Tomb of Virgil,
202.—Excursion to Baiæ, 203.—School of Virgil, 203.—Capo Miseno,
204.—Dragonara, 204.—Elysian fields, 204.—Piscina mirabile, 204.—Cento
camarelle, 204.—Tomb of Agrippina, 204.—Temple of Hercules,
204.—Temple of Venus genitrix, 205.—Temple of Mercury, 205.—Temple of
Diana, 205.—Ruins at Baiæ, 205.—Camaldoli, 206.—Excursion to Pompei,
207.—Herculaneum, 208.—Torre del Greco, 208.—Torre dell’ Annunziata,
208.—Pompei, 208.—Ponte della Maddelena, 209.—Old Capua, 209.—Caserta,
210.

LETTER XLV.

JOURNEY TO ATHENS.

Journey to Bari, 211.—Robbers taken into service, 212.—Foggia,
214.—Bari, 214.—Cathedral, 215.—Church of San Nicola, 215.—Norman
church at Bari, 215.—Residence at Bari, 216.—Journey to Otranto,
216.—Lecce, 218.—Style of architecture, 218.—Otranto, 219.—Olive
trees, 219.—Voyage to Corfu, 220.—Modern Greek buildings, 220.—Greek
dress, 220.—Soil of Corfu, 221.—Journey to Santa Maura,
222.—Agioneesi, 222.—Santa Maura, 224.—Leucas, 224.—Voyage to Patras,
225.—Voyage to Vostizza, 226.—Journey to Corinth, 227.—Antiquities at
Corinth, 228.—Voyage to Athens, 228.

LETTER XLVI.

ATHENS.

Greek apartments, and mode of life, 229.—Topography, 230.—Ilissus,
231.—Cephisus, 231.—Nature of rock, 232.—Effect of first-rate
productions, 232.—Review of objects in journey, 233.—Arrival at
Athens, 234.—Monument of Lysicrates, 234.—Tower of the winds,
234.—Portico of the market, 234.—Stoa, 234.—Gymnasium, 234.—Temple of
Theseus, 234.—Situations of buildings, 235.—Greek temples, 235.—Tiles,
237.—External painting, 237.—Comparison of Greek and Roman ornaments,
239.

LETTER XLVII.

ACROPOLIS.

Propylæa, 241.—Temple of Victory without wings, 241.—Very ancient
constructions, 246.—Mode of finishing, 246.—Parthenon, 246.—Situation
of religious buildings, 247.—Effects of explosion, 248.—Nature of
quarries of Pentelic marble, 251.—Desire of obtaining fragments,
253.—Temple of Erectheus, 254.—Temple of Minerva Polias, 257.—Temple
of Pandrosus, 257.

LETTER XLVIII.

OTHER ANTIQUITIES OF ATHENS.

Comparison of Rome and Athens, 259.—Walls of the Acropolis, 261.—Grotto
of Pan, 261.—Large entablature, 261.—More very ancient walls,
262.—Choragic monuments, 262.—Theatre of Bacchus, 262.—Odeum,
262.—Temple of Jupiter Olympus, 262.—Progress of foliage, 263.—Arch of
Hadrian, 265.—Areopagus, 266.—Pnyx, 266.—Monument of Philopappus,
266.—Stadium of Herodes Atticus, 267.—Bridge over the Ilissus,
267.—Tombs, 267.—Academy, 268.—Colonia, 268.—Lyceum, 268.—Turkish
architecture, 268.—Greek churches, 269.

LETTER XLIX.

NEIGHBOURHOOD OF ATHENS.

Piræus, 271.—Tomb of Themistocles, 271.—Munychia, 271.—Phalerus,
272.—Excursion to Daphne, 272.—Written rock, 273.—Salt streams,
273.—Excursion to Hymettus, 274.—Climate of Athens, 275.—Modern Greek,
275.—Mode of life, 278.—Dancing dervises, 279.—Greek carnival,
280.—Greek dress, 281.—Schools in Greece, 285.

LETTER L.

EXCURSION ROUND ATTICA.

Temple of Jupiter Panhellenius in Egina, 287.—Comparison of Greek and
English scenery, 288.—Temple of Minerva at Sunium, 289.—Remains at
Thoricus, 289.—Plain of Marathon, 290.—Ruins at Rhamnus, 291.—Return
to Athens, 292.—Plague, 292.

LETTER LI.

VOYAGE FROM ATHENS TO MALTA.

Temple near the port of Egina, 295.—Pidhavro, or Epidaurus, 296.—Hiero,
296.—Theatre, 297.—Nafplia, 298.—Tyrins, 298.—Argos, 298.—Ruins of
Mycene, 299.—Ruins of Nemæa, 301.—Arrival at Corinth, 301.—Basilica,
the ancient Sicyon, 302.—Voyage to Patras, 303.—Singular Medusa,
303.—Greek mountains, 303.—Earthquake, 304.—Roman aqueduct at Patras,
305.—Quarantine, 305.—Voyage to Malta, 305.

LETTER LII.

MALTA.

Quarantine, 307.—Architecture of Malta, 308.—Church of San Giovanni
Battista, 309.—Church of San Agostino, 309.—Church of San Domenico,
309.—Palace, 310.—Guard-house, 310.—Library, 310.—Staircases,
310.—Whitewash, 311.—Village churches, 311.—Villages, 311.—Residence,
311.—Language, 312.—Lusieri’s drawings, 312.—Celtic antiquity,
312.—Hills, 312.—Plague, 313.—Cathedral at Città Vecchia, 314.—Grotto
of St. Paul, 315.—Boschetto, 315.—Races, 315.—Maltese dress,
315.—Government, 316.

LETTER LIII.

SYRACUSE—CATANIA.

Trabaccolo, 317.—Agusta, 317.—Syracuse, 318.—Temple of Minerva,
318.—Cathedral, 318.—Temple of Diana, 319.—Arethusa (fountain),
319.—Colonnade without the island, 319.—Amphitheatre,
319.—Latomiæ, 319.—Paradiso, 319.—Ear of Dionysius, 319.—Theatre,
320.—Fortifications, 320.—Epipolis, 320.—Aqueducts, 321.—Other
Latomiæ, 321.—Capuchin convent, 321.—Cemetery, 321.—Catacombs,
321.—Fountain Cyane, 321.—Temple of Jupiter, 321.—Coffee-houses
and people, 321.—Journey to Catania, 322.—Catania, 323.—Museum of
the prince of Biscari, 323.—Don Mario, 324.—Baths, 324.—Theatres,
324.—Amphitheatre, 324.—Circular chamber, 324.—Cathedral,
325.—Museum of the Cav. Gioeni, 325.—Museum of the Baron Ricupero,
325.—Museum at the Benedictine convent, 325.—Lava, 325.—Excursion
to the summit of Ætna, 326.

LETTER LIV.

TAORMINA—MESSINA—PALERMO.

Ætna, 329.—Journey from Catania, 329.—Taormina, 330.—Theatre,
330.—Tombs, 331.—Gothic doorway, 332.—Journey to Messina,
332.—Cathedral, 333.—Church of Santa Maria Annunziata, 334.—San
Giovanni Battista, 334.—Mountains of Calabria, 334.—Speronara,
334.—Voyage to Palermo, 335.—Palermo, 336.—Comparison of different
views, 336.—Opinions of the Sicilians as to their own antiquities,
337.—Castle of Zisa, 338.—Casteddu, 338.—Cathedral, 339.—San Niccolò
della Kalsa, 340.—Botanic garden, 341.

LETTER LV.

AGRIGENTUM—SELINUS—SEGESTA.

Journey to Agrigentum, 342.—Belli Frati, 342.—Royal forest of Busambra,
342.—Fibrous carbonate of lime, 343.—Offensiveness of the streams,
343.—Girgenti, 344.—Oratory of Phalaris, 344.—Temple of Juno,
345.—Temple of Concord, 345.—Temple of Hercules, 345.—Temple of
Jupiter, 346.—Tomb of Theron, 347.—Temple of Æsculapius, 347.—Temple
of Castor and Pollux, 347.—Temple of Jupiter Polieus, 348.—Micaceous
marble, 348.—Cathedral, 348.—Warm wind and warm springs at Sciacca,
348.—Journey to Selinus, 349.—Temples at Selinus, 349.—Peculiar
capitals, 350.—Ancient quarries, 352.—Journey to Segesta, 352.—Temple
at Segesta, 352.—Theatre, 353.—Alcamo, 353.—Parthenico, 353.—Cathedral
at Monreale, 354.—Orlando Furioso made into a farce, 354.—Excursion to
Cefalù, 355.—Cathedral, 356.—House of Roger, 356.—Cyclopean edifices,
356.—Termini, 356.—Voyage to Naples, 357.

LETTER LVI.

POMPEI.

Accommodations at Pompei, 358.—Soldiers’ quarters, 359.—Covered theatre,
360.—Larger theatre, 361.—Large court and temple of Hercules,
361.—Ionic portico, 362.—Schools, 363.—Temple of Isis, 363.—Temple of
Æsculapius, 363.—Forum, 364.—Courts of Justice, 365.—Basilica,
365.—Temple of Venus, 366.—Portico of Eumachia, 367.—Temple of
Mercury, 368.—Recess, with number of altars, 368.—Temple of Jupiter,
368.—Triumphal arches, 369.—Amphitheatre, 369.—Private houses,
369.—Paintings, 370.—Tombs, 371.—Villas, 372.—Mosaics,
373.—Indications of the means of confinement and of punishment,
373.—Pantheon, 374.—Baths, 374.—House of tragic poet, 375.—House of
Fuller, 375.

LETTER LVII.

NAPLES—PÆSTUM.

Tuscans and Neapolitans, 376.—Villa Galla, 377.—Journey to Pæstum,
377.—Temple of Neptune at Pæstum, 378.—Basilica, 379.—Amphitheatre,
379.—Theatre, 379.—Peculiar style of capital, 379.—Temple of Ceres,
380.—Other foundations, 380.—Walls and gates, 380.—Salt springs,
380.—Tombs, 381.—Cathedral at Salerno, 381.—Ancient baptistery at
Nocera, 382.

LETTER LVIII.

JOURNEY TO ROME, AND LAST RESIDENCE THERE.

Neapolitan vetturini, 383.—Journey to Rome, 383.—Anxur, 384.—Palace of
Theodoric, 384.—Dead-letter office, 385.—Residence at Rome,
385.—Italian preaching, 386.—Capuchin sermon, 386.—Catechising,
386.—Canova’s church, 387.—Dragging the Tiber, 387.—Entertainments and
illuminations in honour of the emperor’s visit to Rome, 387.

LETTER LIX.

JOURNEY TO FLORENCE—PISA.

Journey to Florence, 389.—Assisi, 389.—Temple of the Corinthian order,
389.—Cathedral, 389.—Church and convent of St. Francis, 389.—Santa
Maria degli Angeli, 390.—Hut of St. Francis, 390.—Residence at
Florence, 390.—Vaulting, 391.—Academy, 391.—Pietre dure, 391.—Monte
Asenario, 392.—Pratolino, 392.—Journey to Leghorn, 392.—Leghorn,
393.—Pisa, 393.—Peculiar style of architecture, 393.—Cathedral,
393.—Baptistery, 396.—Campo Santo, 397.—Leaning tower, 397.—Church of
Santa Maria della Spina, 397.—Domestic architecture, 398.—Baths,
398.—Wood of Pisa, 398.

LETTER LX.

SCHOOLS.

Lancasterian schools at Florence, 399.—Lancasterian schools at Siena,
401.—Arithmetic, 402.—Schools at the Albergo de’ Poveri, 403.—Schools
of the Frati Cristiani, 404.—Romans and Carthaginians, 404.—Scuole pie
at Rome, 405.—Scuole pie at Florence, 405.—Contests, 406.—Collegio
Romano, 407.—Institution at Florence, 407.—Tuscan system of education,
408.