Chapter VII: Part 7
On the 4th current I left Ambato on my way to this city. There is a town called Tacunga or Latacunga about 20 miles distant from Ambato, and on the straight road to this place. From the consideration of having been much detained in my journey from Guayaquil, I wished to reach this city as quickly as possible, and on that account I intended not to stop at Tacunga, but to push on to a village called Mulaló, and to pass the night there, in order that I might reach Quito on the following day. I was the more inclined to do so, as I understood that Tacunga was inhabited almost wholly by Indians, none of whom could use our books. Another arrangement, however, had been determined on by a higher authority than mine, and for a purpose which you will presently see. I had scarce left Ambato, when a Friar travelling for Quito, came up with me upon the road. As he was accompanied by a servant only, and unencumbered with luggage, he could get faster on his way than I could, accompanied as I was by the loaded mules. We, notwithstanding, rode together for some time, and fell into various conversation. He urged me to go forward with him, and to leave the loaded mules to follow us, which, after some hesitation, I complied with, and we went on together at a gentle trot. His intention was to stop all night at Tacunga, as he had some concerns to arrange there. He kindly invited me to stay there also during the night, in order that we might go on together next day towards Quito, offering me a hospitable lodging in the convent of St. Dominic, to which he belonged. I still, however, thought it my duty to push forward, so as to reach Quito next day, and which I could not do if I stopped all night at Tacunga. Before we arrived at the place, in passing a river, my horse, upon reaching the bank, which was rather difficult of access, stumbled, plunged again into the river, and nearly threw me into it. I got safely out, though considerably wet. This circumstance determined me to stop at Tacunga till I got my clothes dried. Upon reaching the town, I went with my friend to the convent, where I got myself comfortably dried, and prepared for the journey. Before I was ready to set out, there came on a thunder storm, and by the time the weather cleared up, it was too late to set out. My good friends in the convent strongly urged me to pass the night with them, and which I consented to do.
I found this town larger than I expected, and as I was to pass the night in it, I was anxious to seize the opportunity of offering the word of God to them, although I had not much confidence as to the success I should meet with. In carrying this purpose into effect, I found myself rather embarrassed. I was lodged in a convent, and knew not what disposition the friars might have to the distribution of the Scriptures, especially to their being sold in the convent. I wished myself lodged elsewhere, and indeed any where else, but could not with any decency remove, as my friends loaded me with kindness. Had I known, upon my entering the town, that I was to have a sale of the New Testaments there, I would not have gone to the convent, more especially as I had a letter of introduction to the Governor and to another gentleman in the place. After some hesitation, I resolved to make an attempt where I was. I went pensively to the case in which the New Testaments were, took out one, and went direct to the Prior to show it to him, praying all the while as I went, that the God of heaven would dispose his heart and the hearts of the rest to befriend the circulation of his holy word. My prayer was heard. The Prior was much pleased with the New Testament, and bought it. He showed it to one of the rest, and recommended it, whilst I did not fail to put in a word to the same effect, pointing out the advantages of the Scriptures to all, and how more immediately it concerned them, as ministers of religion, to possess it, and to recommend it to others. Yes, said one of them, it is the very book which concerns us, and we would gladly encourage others to receive it. I then told them that I had a number of copies, and that I wished to expose them to sale in that town. I showed the Prior the advertisement, and said, I should be glad to have the sale in the convent, if it were agreeable to him. By all means, said he, and immediately he filled up the blanks in the notices with his own hand, and sent a person to fix them up. The advertisements were scarcely up, when one, and another, and another came tripping in to purchase a New Testament. In a little, the buyers thickened, whilst all the friars stood around enjoying the sight, and warmly recommending the sacred volume to all who came, and assisted me in the sale when occasion required. The result was, that in two hours and a half, that is, till the night came on, I sold _one hundred and four_ copies, which was more than I had sold in Guaranda, Riobamba, and Ambato taken together, although I remained two days in each of these places. You see, by this time, I dare say, why superior arrangements called me to stop at this place, contrary to my own intention.
Among others, whom the sound of our horn brought together, came the Vicar of the town _in propria persona_. Upon learning who he was, I made my obeisance, and entered into conversation with him, as to the advantages of the word of God, and the duty of making it known to all, and to my great joy I found in him also a friend to this object. At an early period of our sale, I brought out the Bible, of which I have spoken above, and for the purpose there mentioned. It had the desired effect. It arrested the attention, and could have been sold many a time. I told all who wished to purchase it, that there would arrive in a few months a number of copies, and that all would be supplied. None being able to obtain it, a little circle resolved to improve the occasion to learn what it contained, while a friar in the middle kept reading aloud for a considerable time.—There was another attractive, namely, the Brief View of the Bible Society. This also drew the attention, and was eagerly read. Their approbation of the object of the Society, and their wonder at the effects already produced by it, alternately drew forth corresponding expressions. You need not be told that I relished the scene before me, and enjoyed a high entertainment. I could not refrain from silent thanksgiving to the God above, as I brought out another and another parcel of New Testaments, to which I joined a fervent prayer, that on this occasion the word of God might be sown in good ground, and might produce in some thirty, in some sixty, and in some a hundred fold. I felt also my heart warm within me, whilst the contemplation of the British character, which was thus brought under review, called forth the just praises of my native land. O favoured isle! garden of God! where the fruits of righteousness grow more abundantly than in all the world beside. Peace be upon thee! In thee may the will of God be done—_as it is done in heaven_.
By and by the night came on, and our sale closed. After which we retired to one of the cells and entered into general conversation. We were all pleased with each other. My friends, on the one hand, seized every opportunity to show their kindness and attention, and I, on the other hand, in return for their kindness, amused them with my mountain barometer, thermometers, and pocket compass, all of which were perfectly new to them, and highly entertaining. At a proper hour the friars retired to their cells, and I also retired to mine, where I passed part of the night in contemplating the scene which had just passed before me, and the rest in repairing the fatigues of the day.
I told the Prior of the convent and the others, that the sale which had been effected in that place, so much greater than in the other places I had visited in their neighbourhood, did great honour to their town. I took occasion also to return them my sincere thanks for the very active and friendly part they had taken in this matter, and told them I should have great pleasure in communicating the same to the Society in London, and which I accordingly now do. The Prior said that he should be very glad, upon any future occasion, to forward the objects of the Society as far as he could, and that in regard to any other supply of the Scriptures destined for Tacunga, he would most readily take charge of them, and dispose of them according to the directions which might be sent with them. The other Friars heartily seconded the Prior in all these matters. In conversing about the Bibles that were to come to them from Guayaquil, it was agreed that not fewer than fifty copies would be required for Tacunga, and I promised to write to Guayaquil in order that this number might be sent to them upon their arrival there from Lima. At the same time I write to Lima to forward a sufficient supply to Guayaquil of your second edition, which must, I should think, be already in Callao, or near it.
In the preceding part of this letter, I gave you the names and address of some persons who would gladly carry forward your object in the places mentioned. I now add to this list another, namely, the Prior already mentioned, “El R. P. Fr. Manuel Peñaherrera, Prior de Santo Domingo de Latacunga.” The person just named, as well as all his colleagues, will be most ready to establish an Auxiliary Bible Society in that place, when the proper time comes for doing so. I give you also the names of some others belonging to this convent, as my duty and my promise require of me, and could wish that in some corner of one of your monthly extracts or annual reports their names might be recorded, for I think they are worthy of it; and in seeing their names in any of these publications I shall feel myself as discharged from what nearly amounts to an obligation, and which my feelings of respect and gratitude towards my friends led me into. The names are as follows: Padre Mariano Quintana, Padre Narciso Molina, Padre Matias Granja. To which I add, as the last, but not the least, my travelling companion, Padre José Celio.[4]
I conclude this letter, the writing of which has been the means of my enjoying over again the encouraging scenes which I have endeavoured to describe, and which I lay before you that you may comply with the pleasing duty of rejoicing with those that rejoice.—I only add, May God Almighty prosper you most abundantly in all your undertakings; and unto whom in all things be glory for ever: Amen.
[4] These names were not inserted in the Society’s Extracts, as the Secretaries thought the doing so might, perhaps, compromise our friends there with their superiors. A letter, however, was written to the Prior, in the name of the Society, conveying to him those sentiments which his conduct, on the above occasion, called forth. A few weeks ago an answer was received from the Prior, in reply to this letter, in which he expresses his continued interest in the object of the Bible Society, and his desire to circulate the Scriptures in his native country.—It may be mentioned here also, that a suitable letter was sent by the Society to the Governor of Guaranda, and that a very friendly reply to it has been lately received. This gentleman continues a warm friend to the Bible Society.
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_Quito, 19th November, 1824._
A considerable time has elapsed since the date of my last letter to you, and during the same period, if I remember right, I have not been favoured with any of your communications. So that, as far as mere exchange of letters is concerned, I am not so much in arrear as you may perhaps be thinking. It is true, indeed, that it is my part to write to you, rather than yours to write to me, but that again supposes that I have something worth communicating. Now, I am sorry to say that this has not been the case during my partial silence, a silence arising from a very natural cause, that of having nothing to say. I mean that I have had nothing to say about the _progress_ of education in this quarter: and though I have still very little to say upon that subject, yet, knowing you take a great interest in the well being of this part of the world, and in my feeble efforts to promote it, I think it my duty to let you know at least where I am, and what I am doing.
You will observe by the line at the top, that I am in the city of Quito, and I shall now state to you why I am here, and what I am engaged in. You know how the war has raged for some time past in Peru, and that Lima has been for a considerable time in the hands of the enemy. I am not sure that I have expressed myself correctly in saying _the enemy_, a term applied by each party to the other, but which in the mouth of a neutral is an impropriety of speech. I beg leave to justify myself in this, by informing you that I am not a neutral in this contest, as all my feelings and my wishes are on the one side, and of course the other side is the enemy. I leave you to find out at your leisure what side I am on, and shall proceed to give you what information I have to communicate relative to our concerns, the concerns of education.
I left Lima in the beginning of September, with the intention of not returning to it for some time. The immediate cause was the impossibility of moving forwards in our work under the pressure of existing circumstances. The very utmost that could be done was to keep hold of what we had obtained, and even that was done with great difficulty. Our model school in Lima, at the time I came away, contained about 200 children, a number somewhat less than what it contained some months previous to that time. This decrease is owing to the great poverty that existed there, on the one hand; and on the other hand it arose from a natural fear in the parents lest their children should be picked up on their way to the School by the recruiting parties, a fear not altogether groundless. I may mention here, that there is another School on our plan, containing about 80 children.
You know that, for a considerable time back, I have had a desire to pass through that part of this Continent where I now am, but I was prevented from doing so, by the difficulty of leaving Lima in the state in which things were, and by the prospect of making a rapid progress in extending education over Peru. At the time I came away, the difficulty referred to was removed, and the prospect in regard to the other circumstance mentioned was altogether blasted, at least for a time. The difficulty I have noticed was the want of a proper master, in whose hands I could trust the school with confidence. The school, however, at my leaving Lima, was in the hands of a good master, with an assistant to aid him, whilst the superintendence of all is in the hands of my excellent friend the Clergyman, of whom I have often spoken to you with approbation. From this good friend, notwithstanding these favourable arrangements, I was obliged to tear myself away. He urged me to stop, and would at length only hear of my going away in the expectation of my early return, and in the hope of my visit to England being turned to the advantage of the schools in Peru, as I trust it will, should I have the happiness to reach your favoured country.
I thought it advisable, and my duty, to seize the time that thus offered for verifying my long-intended journey. You know, I dare say, that it was not the mere desire of jaunting that led me to propose this journey to myself. The two objects which have hitherto more immediately engaged my attention in South America are those which form the work respectively of the British and Foreign Bible Society, and the British and Foreign School Society. With these two objects in view, I left Lima for Bogotá the capital of Colombia. Though I can never lose sight of any one of these two objects, yet that of the Bible Society is the main one in this journey.
I have been very much pleased with my journey, in the prosperity I have had in the distribution of the sacred volume. I have observed a very general desire to possess this book, and I have had the pleasure of seeing great numbers flock together, not to receive it as a present, but to buy it. Of upwards of 1500 New Testaments which I had at the outset, not many remain. I had no Bibles, and was very sorry for it, as, from its being generally asked for, I am sure I could have sold many copies. It is gratifying to know that a supply of them may be expected in the course of a few months; and with this prospect I have revived the spirits of many who evidently felt disappointed when I told them that I had none.
It is truly a pleasing sight to see so many eagerly seeking after God; and it cheers the heart of the poor traveller, as he moves along now through the woods, now over the mountains, to think that he is the means of cheering the hearts of others, by putting into their hands the only book which can effectually cheer the heart with solid comfort. I refer you for further particulars regarding the circulation of the Scriptures to my letters upon the subject to the British and Foreign Bible Society.
Before I speak of the state and progress of education in Quito, I shall mention two circumstances which have occurred to me since I left Lima. I notice these because they are encouraging, as it respects the progress of education, and because they tend to prove what I have so often stated to you,—that there is a very general desire throughout this country for extending the benefits of education to all, and with all possible speed. The circumstances referred to occurred in Truxillo and in Guayaquil. In both these places I received proposals from the magistrates to remain among them, in order to establish schools on our plan, and to promote the objects of education in general. In both cases I had a struggle with my feelings, though not with my judgment, in declining the honour offered me. Though my duty bade me pursue my journey, yet, in consequence of these proposals, I cannot help taking an additional interest in the progress of education in the places mentioned; and through the intercourse that took place upon this subject during my short stay in these tours, I expect some good will result, of which I shall afterwards inform you.
I come now to speak of the state and prospects of education in this city. The state of elementary education here is, at present, very low, but its prospects are more encouraging. Perhaps you are aware that the Colombian Government is taking active measures to extend education over all their share of South America. Some time ago a Central School on the Lancasterian plan was established in Bogotá, the capital. This school was set agoing by a friar who had been banished from his native country on account of his then-called revolutionary principles, and who had learned the system during his exile. Upon his return to America he established this school in the capital, which has now existed two or three years. It is the wish of the government to put a model school in the capital of each department, and from these schools to send out masters to all the towns and villages the department contains. For this purpose the friar I before mentioned, has lately arrived here, and is getting his school-room prepared. I have had several conversations with this individual, and have been much pleased in observing the very lively interest he takes in the education of youth, as well as in the general progress of knowledge throughout his native country. It is delightful to shake hands with such persons, and to unite one’s heart with them wherever they are found. I augur much good from the establishment and direction of schools by a person of this character. I do from my heart wish him great success, and a success equal to the desires of his own benevolent mind. The Intendant or Governor of the department is an excellent man, and very desirous of the progress of knowledge throughout this quarter. He is urging forward the school with all diligence; and to supply the children with books, he has bought of me 50 New Testaments.
The next thing I have to notice is of some interest, and respects female education. You are aware, that the education of this sex is very limited in South America. It is so in Quito, as might be expected. From the consideration that this is a large place, and the chief city of a large and populous district of country, I was very desirous of doing something towards establishing a female school or academy here. I spoke to the Intendant and others upon the subject, and found them all willing to do whatever was practicable in carrying into effect such a desirable object. The plan I proposed was, to send for a well-instructed person or two from England, in order to establish at once a school or academy of the best description; and I promised to do, on my part, all I could to procure such persons upon my arrival in England. My proposition was very favourably received, and a plan was immediately thought of for carrying it into effect. The want of funds was the only obstacle that occurred, and where to find them was the object to which the attention of all was directed. At length it was discovered that there was a certain religious house in the city which had good funds belonging to it. This house is not a nunnery, though it is somewhat allied to it. It is what is here called a Beateria; and if one were called upon to give it a name corresponding to its nature, it might be called a House of Idleness. This name, at all events, would suit the character given me of it by the Intendant. To get this house and its funds was now the object of consideration, and a petition to the general government of Colombia was thought of for that purpose. You know that respecting a matter of this kind, it is necessary to interest the female sex themselves in it. I accordingly spoke with some ladies upon the subject, and found them very anxious to lend their influence to obtain the object in question. I am lodged and very kindly treated in the house of the Marquis de San José, and I wished that the Marchioness should take the lead in this affair, as a matter of courtesy on my part, and principally because she is the person of most influence in the place. I stated to her the plan proposed, of establishing a school or academy in the style of those in England, and was happy to find that she entered heartily into it. The way ultimately fixed upon for carrying forward the plan is this: The lady before mentioned, along with some female friends, is to draw up a petition to the Intendant, begging that something may be done for establishing a female academy in Quito. As soon as this comes into the Intendant’s hands, he will state his opinion upon the subject, strongly recommending it, and pointing out where the funds may be obtained for the purpose. The petition thus prepared is to be put into my hands, and I am to have the honour of laying it before the Vice-President in Bogotá upon my reaching that city; and such is the interest taken by the Government in these matters, that I have no doubt of its complete success.
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_Quito, 24th November, 1824._
My last letter to you was written from this place, and dated the 8th current, the day after my arrival. I then stated to you what had occurred to me from Riobamba until my arrival in this city. I shall now, therefore, proceed to give you an account of the reception your cause has met with in Quito.
When I set out from Guaranda on my way to Riobamba, I left four boxes of New Testaments behind me, partly because I was going out of the straight road for Quito, and partly because mules could not readily be had to carry them. These boxes I left in the hands of my good friend the Governor, who kindly undertook to forward them direct to this city. Upon my arrival here, I found that these boxes had not arrived, although there was more than sufficient time. I waited for them with some impatience, especially as I had disposed of the contents of those I had brought with me, so that there remained none in my hands for sale in this place. During this delay of the New Testaments I had many inquiries for them, as it had got abroad that I had brought with me a good supply for this city. At length a part arrived, when I learned that the delay was owing to the owner of the mules. I gave notice publicly of the sale, as I had done in other places, and in a short time all were sold, amounting to 137 copies. After these were all gone, the inquiries after them continued, and I had to put off the inquirers, with telling them that there were two more boxes expected every minute. Day passed on after day without the arrival of these, until I was beginning a second time to think them lost. Yesterday afternoon, however, they safely arrived, and as soon as they were opened 80 copies were paid for and carried off by a highly respected clergyman. Fifty of these were for the use of the schools here, and were purchased on account of the government, agreeably to an order given to that effect some days previous to their arrival. Twenty-five of the eighty were purchased at the request of the Provincial of the Convent of St. Francis, for the express purpose of putting a copy into the hands of each friar in the convent. I noticed in my last the triumph of our cause in the convent of St. Dominic, in Latacunga, and it affords me no small pleasure to be able to record what I may call a triumph of a similar kind, as just mentioned, regarding the Franciscans in this city. To which I may add, that the respected clergyman I before referred to, has orders from, I believe, all the convents to purchase one, two, or more _Bibles_ for them at the moment of their arrival. The remaining five of the above mentioned eighty were for particular friends.
I have noticed to you, in my preceding letters, the desire manifested in the places I have passed through, for _the whole Bible_. This desire has also been manifested in Quito, and in a strong degree. In order to increase this desire, rather than supply the wants of these places, I have written to Guayaquil, directing the fifty Bibles which I formerly ordered from Lima to that place, to be sent to these parts, in due proportions; only ten or twelve of these will come to this place, and these are already bespoken. I have also ordered to be sent to the different towns mentioned in my former letters, a considerable number of copies of the small New Testament, and of the Books of Psalms, Proverbs, &c.; the proportion for Quito is 200 of the former, and 200 of the latter; these I expect will meet with a very favourable reception, and will fall short of the demand for them. I have thus, you see, distributed the whole of the supply sent me as mentioned in your last letter, yet this supply, so distributed, will prove inadequate to the wants and the demands of these quarters. To meet this demand, we must have recourse to your _second_ edition of the Bible, of which you have advised me, and of which I expect a good supply is already on the way to Lima. In that city, and also in Guayaquil, I have given the necessary directions for sending proper quantities to each place. The city of Quito is large, and contains upwards of 50,000 inhabitants. It is also surrounded by a populous country, of which it is the capital and the centre. On this account I have ordered to it 500 copies of the whole Bible, with a request to our correspondent in Guayaquil to remit 500 more, if the wants of the latter place will admit of it. I have mentioned to you the names of different persons who offered to manage your concerns in some of the places I have passed through, and I am happy in having it in my power to say, that you have found a warm friend and an agent here in the Marquis of San José, a gentleman of the first respectability in this city, on account of his personal character, and on account of his large possessions in this quarter. From this gentleman I have received every friendly attention during my stay under his hospitable roof. He allowed me to sell the New Testaments in his own house, and encouraged his friends to purchase them. In consequence of his readiness to take the charge of the Society’s concerns here, I have ordered the supplies for Quito, already mentioned, to be forwarded directly to him. You will also please consider him as your correspondent for this quarter, and can address to him accordingly. His address is “Sᵒʳ Manuel de Larrea, Marques de San José, Quito.” I spoke to this gentleman, also, regarding the formation of a Bible Society for the district of Quito, whose seat should be in that city. Into this matter he entered fully and cheerfully, and promised to do every thing in his power to commence and to carry forward such an establishment, as soon as a suitable opportunity should offer for doing so. I spoke also to the Marchioness regarding a Female Bible Society, and had the pleasure of being assured by her, that nothing should be wanting on her part to set such a Society on foot. I have thus endeavoured to place things in such a state as to induce the hope that the concerns of the Bible Society will not be neglected here, but carried forward in a prosperous manner. I should have mentioned also, that several gentlemen, with whom I conversed about the circulation of the Scriptures, and about a Bible Society, much approved of both, and expressed their readiness to lend their aid in these matters, I trust these favourable circumstances, which form an encouraging commencement in this interesting and populous district, will be followed by results truly beneficial to all the inhabitants here, and gratifying to the members of the British and Foreign Bible Society.
There is a circumstance indirectly, or rather I should say directly, connected with our main object, which I should not omit to state to you. I carried with me two copies of the late Bishop of London’s Evidences of Christianity, in Spanish. These I bought in Lima about the time I set off, in the expectation of their doing some good in the course of the journey. I showed this work to the Marquis, who immediately bought it. This he eagerly read, and was highly gratified with its contents. I could have sold the other copy frequently, but refused to sell it, as I intend to carry it farther on, and to dispose of it in some other place. The Marquis lent his copy to several of his friends, who were also much gratified with perusing it. From less to more, the interest in this work was carried, till it was resolved to print an edition of it in Quito by subscription, and this subscription is to be solely among the ladies. This, you see, is a feeling very friendly to the cause of religion, and of the Bible Society. I suppose I need not to tell you, that a work on the evidences of the christian religion is not a little wanted in many parts in this country, as there are many who are verging towards, or are already gone into, deism. On this account, as well as on others, it behoves the friends of Christianity to bestir themselves in behalf of South America. The present is a very interesting and also a very critical period for this country. Much, very much, may be done at present, through prudent and zealous means, to instruct and confirm the wavering, and even perhaps to bring back those who have apostatized from the faith. If these measures were connected with means of instruction, as far as can be done, regarding the true principles and practices of Christianity, as taught in the Holy Scriptures, a very plentiful harvest, through the blessing of God, might be reaped. If it should please the Lord to spare me, and to enable me to reach my native land, I trust I shall find many ready to lend their aid towards such a sacred object.
P.S.—_26th November, 1824._—I have now disposed of 360 copies of the New Testament in this city. May the Lord follow with his abundant blessing this seed which has been sown, and cause it to bring forth a hundred fold. To-day I set off for Popayan, and trust that _He_ who has preserved me thus far, will continue to me his blessing to that place, and thence onwards. I shall endeavour to drop a few seeds as I go along, and pray that these may fall into good ground.
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_Popayan, 1st January, 1825._
You will perceive, by the date of this letter, that it is a month later than it ought to be, according to our epistolary agreement. You will not wonder at this delay, when you consider that I am in the middle of a long and incommodious journey. The day on which I should have written you, I was travelling from Otabalo to Ibarra, and of course had neither leisure nor convenience for conversing with you. I now seize the opportunity of a few days rest which I enjoy in this city, to write you a few lines.
You will probably he expecting some account of the country in which I now am, and through which I have lately passed. I shall endeavour to satisfy your curiosity in some measure upon this point. I shall begin with Guayaquil. That place contains from 12,000 to 15,000 inhabitants, and is situated upon a river of the same name. There are regular tides in the river opposite the town, twice in the 24 hours, and the same also takes place for a considerable distance above the town. The spot on which the town is built is very low, being only a very little higher than the river at the time of high water. The weather here is very hot, considerably more so than in Lima. This, together with a low and somewhat marshy situation, makes the place unhealthy, particularly in the rainy season. I could not help observing, however, during the short time I was there, that the want of cleanliness in the streets, and on the banks of the river, are circumstances which contribute, in my opinion, at least one half to the unhealthiness of the town. This port is the place on the Pacific which at present affords more articles of exportation than any other, and every succeeding year will make it more so. The cocoa from which the chocolate is made is the principal article, and of this several ship-loads go annually to Europe, besides what is used in Peru, Chile, &c. It is through this place that all the towns, as far as Quito, are supplied with European goods, and through this place also should these towns be supplied with the Holy Scriptures, and with other works which may contribute to enlighten and to benefit them with respect to time and to eternity. I have made arrangements there by which the Scriptures may be supplied to these quarters in future.
The town of Guaranda is high up on the Andes, and within a few miles of the great Chimborazo. It enjoys a temperate and healthy climate, notwithstanding its proximity to the Equator. I need not state to you the causes of this, as you are well aware of them. I may, however, say that Chimborazo exerts a considerable influence in moderating the heat which might be expected in this quarter. If you should ask me more particularly what I think of the climate, I would say, judging from my own feelings, that it is cold. So I felt it to be, but that arose partly from my having just come from a very hot climate. It is curious to observe the different feelings of two persons met together on the declivity of the mountains, the one ascending from Guayaquil, and the other descending from Quito. If you ask one of them regarding the climate, or weather, he says it is very cold; and if you ask the other, he says it is very warm; and so they respectively feel from the opposite climates they have come from. Guaranda is situated on the western side of the western Cordillera of the Andes. You will observe that the word _Andes_, is the general name of all these mountains, and _Cordillera_ means the high ridge or line of mountains running nearly north and south. There are two great cordilleras which extend from Cuenca to about 100 miles to the north of Popayan. To the south of Cuenca and to the north of the department of Popayan, one of the Cordilleras disappears. In going from Guaranda to Riobamba, you first ascend the western cordillera to the top. On this _top_ is the _base_ of Chimborazo. The road is close along the base of the mountain and you would think you could lay your hand upon it. From _this spot_ it does not appear a very high mountain, and the reason is obvious, as this spot itself is at a great elevation.[5] The whole of Chimborazo, except perhaps, a few yards, is covered with snow—everlastingly covered. Having reached this top, you see, for the first time, the eastern cordillera, vying with the western in height. You then descend down till you come to Riobamba, which is situated in a _level_ plain between the two ridges, and at nearly an equal distance from both. The whole of my journey, from leaving Riobamba till my arrival in this city, has been in this great valley, between the two cordilleras of the Andes. In two days or three after leaving this place, I will have to cross the eastern cordillera on my way to Bogotá.
The two principal towns between Riobamba and Quito, are Ambato and Tacunga, and of which I have spoken in my letters to Mr. B.; the former may contain 5,000, and the latter 6,000. The greater part of this population consists of Indians, who all speak the ancient Peruvian language. The largest town in the whole of this extensive valley, between the ridges of the Andes, is Quito. It is a city of 50,000 inhabitants and upwards, and will not yield to any city in South America in point of population, except to Lima and to Buenos Aires. Its public buildings are much superior to those of the latter place, and not much inferior to those of the former. Its site is unfavourable, as it is placed on an uneven piece of ground.
In travelling from Quito to Popayan you experience a great variety of climate. Sometimes you have the unmitigated heat of the torrid zone; at another time you might imagine yourself in the neighbourhood of one of the poles rather than the equator; and again at other times you have a climate of the most delightful kind, equally removed from the extremes of heat and of cold. One of the coldest nights I passed on the journey, was within a few yards of the line. You will wonder, perhaps, at this variety, but I will explain it to you. Here and there, during the whole course of this long valley, from Cuenca to Popayan, you have, rising out of the one cordillera or the other, an enormous snow-capped mountain. It is evident that the cold reigns uninterrupted on these towering summits, as the snow, its certain signal, is ever spread over them. Of course when the wind blows from these, it temperates (or perhaps somewhat more) the heat of the sun wherever it passes. Any place situated near these mountains is necessarily temperate, or cold. The coldest place in the whole road, is a place called Tiupuyo, some 20 miles south of Quito, because there you have Cotopaxi on the one side, and right opposite on the other you have Ilinisa, both of which are always covered with snow. I have thus noticed to you the cause of the cold, and shall now point out what is the cause of the heat in those places where its effects are most felt. Wherever there is a deep valley with sloping mountains around, and no towering summits covered with snow, for a considerable distance, there you have a climate of the same kind as is met with in the same latitude on the sea coast. As to the temperate places I have spoken of, they are always to be met with in the absence of these snow-covered mountains on the one hand and the deep valleys on the other. In these tracts the climate is delightful in the extreme, all the year round. In none of these parts have you Spring, Summer, Harvest, and Winter, but one uniform temperature from one end of the year to the other. In most of these places there are periodical times of rain, which form what they call the Winter, whilst the dry season is called Summer. The farmer there may sow when he chooses, and may have his harvest in any month of the year; notwithstanding, however, there is some order attended to in this respect, but it is not uniform in all places.
[5] The top of this ridge, or cordillera, cannot be less than 17,000 feet above the level of the sea. On arriving at this height, I recollected what I had often read of, that persons at great elevations felt much difficulty in breathing. I resolved to try the correctness of these accounts: and for this purpose, I alighted from my horse, and with a heavy great-coat on, I walked with a quick pace for half an hour. The result was, I felt not the slightest inconvenience in breathing.
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_Bogotá, 8th February, 1825._
Since my last communication to you from Quito, I have had a long, and by no means an agreeable journey. The distance from Quito to this place is considerable, the roads are very bad, and in passing through one district, there is no inconsiderable danger. On the 29th ultimo, I arrived safely in this city, and now seize the first opportunity that offers of writing you a few lines, to inform you of occurrences in these parts since my last, of the 26th November.
I intimated to you in the letter last mentioned, that it was my intention to drop a few seeds as I went along, or in other words, to endeavour to circulate the sacred volume, as opportunities might offer, in the course of my journey. I accordingly posted up my notices in those places, where I stopped for half a day, or upwards. In these country villages a great sale was not to be expected. The inhabitants are in general poor, and very few of them are addicted to reading. Some copies, however, were thus put into circulation, and in such places, and under such circumstances, I always think much has been done if a kind of beginning has been made. I shall, in a future communication, state to you the number sold in each place, and the respective sums received since my leaving Lima. I would give you this account now, were it not that the scantiness of my time at present will not allow me to extract these notices from among my notes. I have now disposed of _all_ the New Testaments I brought with me from Lima, and those which I found awaiting me in Guayaquil. I bless the Lord for having counselled me to undertake this journey, and thus to put into circulation a considerable number of copies of his holy word, and which would not likely have been accomplished, but by means of making a complete tour through these quarters. I have thus cause of gratitude to Him who distributeth his favours to whom he will, for having honoured me with a share of this angel-work, of communicating the revelation of God to man. I shall be glad also to know, that the plan I have taken meets with the approbation of the Committee of the British and Foreign Bible Society. I thought much about this journey before undertaking it, and prayed much to the Lord to counsel me in regard to it. And now, looking back over the road I have travelled, and reflecting on the number of copies of the word of life, now in the hands of many people who had never before seen it, I feel my heart drawn out in thanksgiving and praise for all the way by which the Lord hath led me.
My labours in distributing the sacred volume on this journey must now terminate, because I have no more to distribute. In the multitude of my thoughts within me upon setting off from Lima, it occurred to me that I might, after reaching this place, extend my journey in your service to Guatemala, and from thence overland to Mexico. Two objects I had in view in reference to this; the one was the circulation of the Scriptures, and the other was the procuring translations of the New Testament into the native languages of those parts. Of this latter object I wrote you some time ago. This intended journey, however, must now be given up, for various reasons. The first is, because I have no more copies of the Scriptures to distribute; the second is, because I feel doubtful if it would meet with your approbation to incur the expense of travelling through those parts, with the single object of procuring the translations referred to; the third reason is, the happy change which has taken place in Peru, in the termination of the war there, and which induces me to visit England as early as possible, that I may again return to Lima without loss of time, in order to carry on the work of the Lord there, according to the grace and strength he may be pleased to afford me. I trust in the Lord that we shall have an opportunity of seeing each other face to face, before many months elapse, that we may talk over all the doings of the Lord, in making his word to circulate in this country and in every place, and that we may make arrangements for benefiting South America yet more extensively.
I have spoken of the _termination_ of the war in Peru, and this to me is no small subject of thanksgiving; for the deliverance of the country from the Spanish yoke, and the rapid progress of the Lord’s work, are closely identified. I wrote you from Guayaquil some months ago respecting this identification. It was then I gave you an account of the battle of Junin, and of the very important effects that followed. I then also ventured to speak of what were likely to be the ultimate and no very distant results of that battle. All these things the Lord hath now brought about, in scattering those who delight in war and oppression, and in commanding the destroying sword to return into its scabbard.—Rest and peace to this destroying instrument—and for ever! May it never more be drawn in this country, to cut in sunder afresh the peace and the progress of man! I send you an account of this late event in Peru, which I think will prove interesting to you and to your friends.
I expected to find, on my arrival here, a large supply of Spanish New Testaments, which I thought you would have found an opportunity of forwarding to some correspondent in this quarter. I have spoken with Mr. Henderson, the British Consul General here, upon the subject, and he informs me that there are neither Spanish Bibles nor New Testaments in this city, and that there is a demand for them. He also informs me, that he wrote about three months ago to Mr. Dowson, a correspondent of his, requesting him to forward some to this place. You will please make inquiry of Mr. D., who lives in Welbeck Street, if he has sent any; and in the event of none having been sent, have the goodness to forward to this city, as early as possible, a supply of each of your editions of the Spanish Scriptures. I have talked with Mr. Henderson upon this subject, and think he will be a very suitable person to manage your concerns here, and to correspond with you. He takes a particular interest in this matter, and desires me to assure you of his readiness to do all that lies in his power to forward your good work.
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_Bogotá, 25th February, 1825._
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Letters on the Moral and Religious State of South AmericaChapter VII: Part 7
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