Chapter XVII: Appendix: "morocco News"

"A lie is not worth the lying, nor is truth worth repeating."

_Moorish Proverb._

So unanimous have been the uninformed reiteration of the Press in contravention of much that has been stated in the foregoing pages, that it will not be out of place to quote a few extracts from men on the spot who do know the facts. The first three are from leaders in _Al-moghreb Al-aksa_, the present English paper in Morocco, which accurately voices the opinion of the British Colony in that country, opinions shared by most disinterested residents of other nationalities.

"However we look upon the situation as it stands to-day, and
wherever our sympathies may lie, it is impossible to over-estimate
the danger attending the unfortunate Anglo-French Agreement. We
have always--as our readers will acknowledge--advocated the simple
doctrine of the _status quo_, and in this have received the
support of every disinterested person in and out of Morocco. Our
policy has at times thrown us into antagonism with the exponents
of the French colonial schemes; but we at least have the
satisfaction of knowing that, however we may have fallen short of
our duty, it has been one which we have persevered in, prompted by
earnest conviction, by love of the country and its people, and by
admiration for its Sultan. The simplicity of our aim has helped us
in our uphill fight, and will, no doubt, continue to do so in the
future.

"Needless to say we look forward with no little anxiety to the
result of the conference. This needs no explanation. In the
discussion of such a question it is absolutely imperative that the
individual members of the conference should be selected from those
who know their Morocco, and who are acquainted with the causes
which led up to the present dead-lock. Only the keenest, shrewdest
men should be selected, for it must be borne in mind that France
will spare no pains to uphold the recent Anglo-French Convention.
Her most astute diplomats will figure largely, for her dignity is
at stake. Indeed, her very position, diplomatic and political, is
in effect challenged. Taking this into consideration, it is more
than necessary to see that the representatives of Great Britain
are not chosen for their family influence or for the perfection
they may have attained in the French language.

"The task is hard and perilous. England is waking to the fact that
she has blundered, and, as usual, she is unwilling to admit the
fact. Circumstances, however, will sooner or later force her to
modify her terms. Germany, Spain, the United States, and other
nations, to say nothing of Morocco, must point out the absurdity
of the situation. If the agreement is inoperative with regard to
Morocco, it may as well be openly admitted to be useless. This is
not all. Should English statesmanship direct that this injudicious
arrangement be adhered to, France and Great Britain will stand as
self-confessed violators of the Convention of Madrid.

"Fortunately the Moorish cause has some excellent champions. For
many years she has been dumb. Now, however, that she is assailed,
we find a small but influential band of writers coming forward
with their pens to do battle for her.

"This is the great consolation we have. Moorish interests will no
longer be the sport of European political expediency. These men
will, no doubt, protest against the land-grabbing propensities of
the French colonial party, and they may find time to point out
that after a thousand years of not ignoble independence, the
Moorish race deserves a little more consideration than has
hitherto been granted.

"Even those people who are responsible for this deplorable state
of affairs must now stand more or less amazed at their handiwork.
No diplomatic subterfuge can efface the humiliation that underlies
the situation; and no one can possibly exaggerate the danger that
lies ahead of us."

* * * * *

"Two centuries ago Great Britain abandoned Tangier, and it is
only the present generation that has realized the huge mistake. A
maudlin sentimentalism, to avoid displeasing the French King,
prevented us from handing the city back to Portugal; an act which
would have been wise, either strategically, commercially, or with
a view to the suppression of the famous Salee rovers, who were
for long a scourge to ships entering the Straits. A Commission of
experts was appointed to consider the question of the abandonment,
one of them being Mr. Pepys....

"Whatever the opinion may have been of the experts consulted
by the Government on the present agreement with France, we are
strongly disposed to believe that if they have been endowed with
greater sense than those of 1683, there is probably more, as we
must hope there is, in favour of British interests, than appears
to the public eye. Time alone will tell what reservation, mental
or otherwise, may be locked up in the British Foreign Office. It
is difficult to believe that any British statesman would wantonly
give away any national interest, but too lofty a policy has often
been wanting in practical sense which, had that policy descended
from principles to facts, would have saved the nation thousands of
lives, millions of money, and sacrifices of its best interests."

* * * * *

"The events that have been fully before the eyes of British
subjects in Morocco in the abnormal condition of the country
during the past two years, seem to have been ignored by our
Foreign Office. In short, it fully appears that our Foreign
Office policy has been designed to lead the Sultan to political
destruction, and to sacrifice every British interest.

"About two years ago our Foreign Office began well in starting the
Sultan on the path of progress: in carrying out its aims it
has done nothing but blunders. Had it but acted with a little
firmness, the opening up of this country would have already begun,
and there would have been no 'Declaration' which will assuredly
give future Foreign Secretaries matter for some anxiety. The
declaration is only a display of political fireworks that will
dazzle the eyes of the British public for a while, delighting our
Little Englanders, but only making the future hazy and possibly
more dangerous to deal with. It seems only a way of putting off
the real settlement, which may not wait for thirty years to be
dealt with, on the points still at issue, and for which a splendid
opportunity has been thrown away at Downing Street, and could
have been availed of to maintain British interests, prestige, and
influence in this country. Briefly, we fear that the attainment of
the end in view may yet cost millions to the British nation.

"That Morocco will progress under French guidance there can be
no question, and France may be congratulated on her superior
diplomacy and the working of her Foreign Office system."

With regard to the Moorish position, a contributor observes in a later issue--

"The attitude of the Sultan and his Cabinet may be summed up in
a few words. 'You nations have made your agreements about our
country without consulting us. We owe you nothing that we are
unable to pay on the conditions arranged between us. We did not
ask your subjects to reside and trade on Moorish soil. In fact,
we have invariably discouraged their so doing. Troubles exist in
Morocco, it is true, but we are far greater sufferers than
you--our unbidden guests. And but for the wholesale smuggling of
repeating rifles by _your_ people, our tribes would not be able to
cause the disorders of which you complain. As to your intention to
intervene in our affairs, we agree to no interference. If you are
resolved to try force, we believe that the Faith of the Prophet
will conquer. We still believe there is a God stronger than man.
And should the fight go against us, we believe that it is better
to earn Paradise in a holy war for the defence of our soil, than
to submit tamely to Christian rule.'

"The position, however lamentable, is intelligible; but on the
other hand it is incredible that France--her mind made up long ago
that she is to inherit the Promised Land of Sunset--will sit down
meekly and allow herself to be flouted by the monarch and people
of a crumbling power like Morocco. And this is what she has to
face. Not indeed a nation, as we understand the term, but a
gathering of units differing widely in character and race--Arabs,
Berbers, mulattoes, and negroes--unable to agree together on any
subject under the sun but one, and that one the defence of Islám
from foreign intervention. Under the standard of the invincible
Prophet they will join shoulder to shoulder. And hopeless and
pathetic as it may seem, they will defy the disciplined ranks and
magazine guns of Europe. Thus, wherever our sympathies may lie,
the possibilities of a peaceful settlement of the Morocco question
appear to be dwindling day by day. The anarchy paramount in
three-quarters of the sultanate is not only an ever-increasing
peril to European lives and property, but a direct encouragement
to intervention. Of one thing we in Morocco have no kind of doubt.
The landing of foreign troops, even for protective service, in any
one part of the coast would infallibly be the signal for a general
rising in every part of the Empire. No sea-port would be safe for
foreigners or for friendly natives until protected by a strong
European force. And, once begun, the task of 'pacifying' the
interior must entail an expenditure of lives and treasure which
will amply satisfy French demands for colonial extension for many
a year to come."

One more quotation from an editorial--

"And so it would appear, that, with the smiling approval of the
world's Press, the wolf is to take over the affairs of the lamb.
We use the phrase advisedly. We have never hesitated to criticize
the action, and to condemn the errors, of the Makhzen where such a
course has been needful in the public interest. We can, therefore,
with all the more justice, call attention to the real issues of
the compact embodied in the Morocco clauses of the Anglo-French
Agreement of April, 1904. How long the leading journals of England
may continue to ignore the facts of the case it is impossible
to say; but that there will come a startling awakening seems
inevitable. Every merely casual observer on this side of the
Mediterranean knows only too well that the most trifling pretext
may be at any hour seized for the next move in the development
of French intervention. Evidence is piling up to show that the
forward party in France, and still more in Algeria, is burning to
strike while yet the frantic enthusiasm of the Entente lasts, and
while they can rely upon the support--we had almost written, the
moral support--of Great Britain. Can we shut our eyes to the
deliberate provocations they are giving the Makhzen in almost
every part of the sultanate?

"These things are not reported to Europe, naturally. In spite of
all our comfortable cant about justice to less powerful races, who
in England cares about justice to Morocco and her Sultan? We owe
it to Germany that the thing was not rushed through a few months
ago. Who has heard, who wants to hear, the Moorish side of the
question? Morocco is mute. The Sultan pulls no journalistic wires.
He has no advocate in the Press, or in Parliament, or in Society.
Hardly a public man opens his mouth in England to refer to
Morocco, without talking absolute twaddle. The only member of
either House of Parliament who has shown a real grasp of the
tremendous issues of the question is Lord Rosebery, in the
memorable words--

"'No more one-sided agreement was ever concluded between two
Powers at peace with each other. I hope and trust, but I hope and
trust rather than believe, that the Power which holds Gibraltar
may never have cause to regret having handed Morocco over to a
great military Power.'

"Had that true statesman, and true Englishman, been in power
eighteen months ago, England would never have been pledged to
sacrifice her commercial interests in Morocco, to abandon her
wholesome, traditional policy in the Mediterranean, and to revoke
her solemn engagement to uphold the integrity of the Sultan's
dominions."

An excellent idea of the discrepancies between the alarmist reports with which the Press is from time to time deluged, and the facts as known on the spot, is afforded by the following extracts from _Al-moghreb Al-aksa_ of January 7, 1905, when the London papers had been almost daily victimized by their correspondents regarding Morocco:--

"The dismissal of the military _attachés_ at the Moorish Court
threatened to raise a terrible conflagration in Europe, and great
indignation among foreign residents in this country--according to
certain Press reports. This fiery disposition of some offered a
remarkable contrast with the coolness of the others. For instance,
the British took almost no interest in the matter, for the simple
reason that there has never been any British official military
mission in the Moorish Court. It is true there are a few British
subjects in Moorish military service, but they are privately
employed by the Sultan's Government, and their service is simply
voluntary. Even personally, they actually show no great concern in
remaining here or not.

"The Italian military mission is composed of very few persons. The
chief, Col. Ferrara, is on leave in Italy, and the Mission is now
represented by Captain Campini, who lives at Fez with his family.
They report having received all kind attentions from the Sultan
quite recently, and that they know nothing about the dismissal
which has so noisily sounded in Europe. According to the same
Press reports, great fears were entertained of a general rising
against the foreign residents in Fez and other places in the
interior, and while it is reported that the military _attachés_,
consular officers and residents of all nations were notified to
leave Fez and come to Tangier or the coast ports as a matter of
precaution, we find that nobody moves from the Court, because,
they say, they have seen nothing to induce them to leave that
residence. And what has Mulai Abd El Azîz replied to French
complaints and demands respecting the now historical dismissal of
the military _attachés_? A very simple thing--that H.S.M. did
not think that the dismissal could resent any of the civilized
nations, because it was decided as an economic measure, there
being no money to pay even other more pressing liabilities.
However, the Sultan, wishing to be on friendly terms with France
and all other nations, immediately withdrew the dismissal and
promised to pay the _attachés_ as long as it is possible to do so.
The missions, consuls, etc., have now no need to leave Fez, and
everything remains stationary as before. The only thing steadily
progressing is the insecurity of life and property in the
outskirts and district of Tangier, where murders and robberies
proceed unabated, and this state of affairs has caused the British
and German residents in this town to send petitions to their
respective Governments, through their legations, soliciting that
some measure may be adopted to do away with the present state
of insecurity which has already paralysed all overland traffic
between this city and the neighbouring towns.

"The contrasts of the situation are as remarkable as they are
comic, and while the whole country is perfectly quiet, those
places more in contact with the civilized world, like Tangier and
the Algerian frontier, are the only spots which are seriously
troubled with disturbances."

So much for northern Morocco. The same issue contains the following report from its Mogador correspondent regarding the "disturbed state" of southern Morocco.

"It would puzzle even the trained imagination of certain
journalists we wot of to evolve anything alarmist out of the
condition of the great tribes between Mogador and the Atlas.
During the recent tribal differences not one single highway
robbery, even of a native, was, I believe, committed. The roads
are open everywhere; the rival chieftains have, figuratively,
exchanged the kiss of peace, and the tribes have confessed that it
was a mistake to leave their farms and farm-work simply to please
an ambitious and utterly thankless governor.

"As for Europeans, they have been rambling all over the country
with their wonted freedom from interference. A Frenchman,
travelling almost alone, has just returned from Imintanoot.
Another has twice crossed the Atlas. Needless to say the route to
Marrákesh is almost as devoid of other than pleasurable novelty as
a stroll on the Embankment or down the shady side of Pall Mall.
When, indeed, will folks at home grasp the fact that the Berber
clans of southern Morocco belong to a race differing utterly in
character and largely in customs from the ruffians infesting the
northern half of the sultanate?

"'Nothing but the unpleasant prospect of being held up by
brigands,' writes a friend, 'prevents me from revisiting your
beautiful country.' How convince such people that brigandage is an
art unknown south of the Oom Rabya? That the prayer of the Shluh,
when a Nazarene visits their land, is that nothing may happen to
bring trouble on the clan? They may inwardly hate the _Rûmi_, or
they may regard him merely as an uncouth blot on the scenery; but
should actual unpleasantness arise, he will, in almost every case,
have himself to thank for it. (London papers please copy!)"

This letter was dated two days after the Paris correspondent of the _Times_ had telegraphed--

"Events would seem likely to be coming to a head in consequence of
the anarchy prevailing in the Shereefian Empire. The Pretender is
just now concentrating his troops in the plain of Angad, and is
preparing to take an energetic offensive against Ujda. The camp of
the Pretender is imposing in its warlike display. All the caids
and the sons of Bu Amema surround Mulai Mahomed. The men are armed
with French _chassepots_, and are well dressed in new uniforms
supplied by an Oran firm. All the war material was embarked on
board the French yacht _Zut_, which landed it last month on
the shores of Rastenga between Cape Eau and Melilla under the
direction of the Pretender's troops."

Towards Christmas, 1902, circumstantial reports began to appear in the newspapers of an overwhelming defeat of the imperial army by rebels who were marching on Fez, who had besieged it, and had cut off the aqueduct bringing its water, the Sultan retreating to the palace, Europeans being ordered to the coast, etc., etc. These statements I promptly and categorically denied in an interview for the London _Echo_; there was no real "pretender," only a religious fanatic supported by two disaffected tribes, the imperial army had not been defeated, as only a small body had been despatched to quell the disturbance; the "rebels" were not besieging Fez, as they had no army, and only the guns captured by the clever midnight surprise of sleeping troops, of which the "battle"--really a panic--consisted; they had not cut the "aqueduct," as Fez is built on the banks of a river from which it drinks; the Sultan's palace was his normal abode; the Europeans had not fled, seeing no danger, but that _on account of the alarming telegrams from Europe_, their Ministers in Tangier had advised them to withdraw, much against their will.

So sweeping a contradiction of statements receiving daily confirmation from Tangier, heightened colour from Oran, and intensification from Madrid, must have been regarded as the ravings of a madman, for the interview was held over for a week for confirmation. Had not thirty-four correspondents descended on Tangier alone, each with expenses to meet? Something had to be said, though the correspondent nearest to the scene, in Fez, was two days' journey from it, and six from Tangier, the nearest telegraph station. It is true that some years ago an American boldly did the journey "From Fez to Fleet Street in Eight Days," by forgetting most of the journey to Tangier, but this was quite out-done now. Meanwhile every rumour was remodelled in Oran or Madrid, and served up afresh with confirmatory _sauce piquante_, _à la française_ or _à l'espagnol_, as the case might be. It was not till Reuter had obtained an independent, common-sense report, that the interview was published, my statements having been all confirmed, but by that time interest had flagged, and the British public still believes that a tremendous upheaval took place in Morocco just then.

Yet, notwithstanding the detailed accounts of battles and reverses--a collation of which shows the "Father of the She-ass" fighting in several places at once, captured or slain to-day and fighting to-morrow, and so on--the Government of Morocco was never in real danger from the "Rogi's" rising, and the ultimate issue was never in doubt. The late Sultan, El Hasan, more than once suffered in person at the hands of the same tribes, defeats more serious than those experienced by the inadequate forces sent by his son.

The moral of all this is that any news from Morocco, save that concerning Europeans or events on the coast, must be received with caution, and confirmation awaited. The most reliable accounts at present available are those of the _Times_ correspondent at Tangier, while the _Manchester Guardian_ is well informed from Mogador. Whatever emanates from Paris or Algeria, not referring directly to frontier events; or from Madrid, not referring to events near the Spanish "presidios," should be refused altogether, as at best it is second-hand, more often fabricated. How the London Press can seriously publish telegrams about Morocco from New York and Washington passes comprehension. The low ebb reached by American journals with one or two notable exceptions in their competitive sensationalism would of itself suffice to discredit much that appears, even were the countries in touch with each other.

The fact is that very few men in Morocco itself are in a position to form adequate judgements on current affairs, or even to collect reliable news from all parts. So few have direct relations with the authorities, native and foreign; so many can only rely on and amplify rumour or information from interested sources. So many, too, of the latter _must_ make money somehow! The soundest judgements are to be formed by those who, being well-informed as to the conditions and persons concerned, and Moorish affairs in general, are best acquainted with the origin of the reports collected by others, and can therefore rightly appraise them.

INDEX

A

Abbas, Shah of Persia, 280 _note_

Abd Allah bin Boo Shaïb es-Sálih,
story of: protection system, 247-251

Abd Allah Ghaïlán, former rebel leader, 274

Abd el Hakk and the Widow Záïdah, story of the, 164, 165

Addington, Mr., British Ambassador at Granáda, 354

Aghmát, capital of Southern Morocco, 5

Ahmad II., "the Golden," addressed by Queen Elizabeth, 9

Algeria, 281;
the French in, 294-296, 299;
viewed from Morocco, 307-317;
under French rule, 308-315;
failure as a colony, 309;
Arabs in, 313;
Moors in, 314;
mosques, 315;
tilework, 316;
field for scientist, 317

Algiers (El Jazîrah), the city and people, 310-316

Alhambra, the, at Granáda (_q.v._)

_Al-moghreb Al-aksa_ on the political situation, 381-394

Andorra, the Pyrenean republic of, 7, 337, 379;
its privileges granted by Charlemagne, 379

Anglo-French Agreement, 276, 279, 301, 304, 381;
clauses in, 283, 293

Anne, Queen, 9

Arabs, the wandering, 57-62;
tent-life, 57-62;
food, 59;
hospitality, 60;
in Algeria, 313;
in Tunisia, 322

B

Beggars, native, 115, 116

Berber race, 3, 6, 47-56;
pirates, 3;
men brave and warlike, 48, 49;
Reefian, 48, 50;
women often very intelligent, 51;
they, not Saracens or Arabs, real conquerors of Spain, 6, 54;
origin still a problem, 55;
Ghaïátà Berbers in revolt, 271-273

Boabdil, 356, 365

Boo Ziaro Miliáni, arrest and release of, 34

C

Café, Moorish, 159-165

Carthage, 53;
Christian and Mohammedan, 53

Charlemagne, 379

Charles Martel, the "Hammer," 337

Charles V., "improver" of Spanish monuments of Moorish art, 338,
350, 353

Chess, 133, 144;
an Arab game, 134

Child-life, Moorish, 94-101;
infancy, 95;
school days, 97;
youth, 99;
early vices, 101

"Cid," the, El Mansûr, 376

City life in Morocco, 63-70

Civil war in Morocco: Asni and the Aït Mîzán, 261-266

Coinage, Moorish, 23-25, 125

Córdova, 337, 338-346, 375;
its famous mosque (cathedral), 338-345;
aisles, columns, arches, 339, 340;
the kiblah niche, 342;
Moorish worshippers in, 342;
European additions to, 343-345;
history of the town, 345

Corrosive sublimate tea--for disgraced officials, 28

D

Debts in Morocco, how settled, 30-34

Delbrel, M., leader of the "Rogi's" forces, 273

Dining out in Morocco, 102-106

Diplomacy in Morocco. _See_ Embassy

Draughts, game of, 162

E

Edward I. and Eleanor of Castile, 376

Edward VII. in Algeria, 281

Elizabeth, Queen, 9

El K'sar es-Sagheer, 6

El Menébhi, ambassador to London and Minister of War, 268

El Moghreb el Aksa, native name of Morocco, 14

El Yazeed, Sultan in 1790, declares war on all Christendom, 10

Embassy to court of Sultan, a typical, 206-232;
requisitioning provisions, 206, 207;
_personnel_ and _attachés_, 208, 209;
native agent, 209;
arrival at Marrákesh, 210;
reception, 212, 213;
the diplomatic interview:
ambassador, interpreter, and Sultan, 214-222;
the result:
as it appeared in the Press, 223;
as it was in reality, 224, 225;
diamond cut diamond, 226-230;
failure, and its causes, 227-230

England and Morocco, 276, 293, 294, 381-394;
British trade, 280;
British policy in, 301-304;
Anglo-French Agreement (_q.v._);
"Morocco news," 381-394

F

Ferdinand and Isabella of Spain, 3, 334, 350, 353, 362, 378;
their nuptials the death-knell of Moorish rule in Europe, 7;
tomb of, 355

Fez, founded by son of Mulai Idrees, 5;
Karûeeïn mosque at, 44, 337, 339, 358

Football, Moorish, 97, 137

Ford's "Handbook to Spain," 357, 366, 373

France in Morocco, 288, 292-305;
"policing" the frontier, 288;
her rule inevitable and desirable, 294-300;
hope for the Moors, 301, 305, 385;
Anglo-French Agreement (_q.v._);
in Algeria, 308-315;
in Tunisia, 318-320;
_see_ Political situation, the, and Appendix, 381-394

G

German interests in Morocco, 279-282

Gerona: Sulaïmán, Pepin, and Charlemagne, 378, 379

Gibraltar, Moorish castle, 370

Granáda, 337, 352-365;
the Alhambra Palace, loveliest monument of Moorish art in Spain,
352-354, 356-362;
despoiled by Charles V. and the French, 353;
"Tia Antonia," 353, 354;
Morocco-like surroundings, 354;
mosques, 355;
tomb of Ferdinand and Isabella, 355;
remains of Cardinal Mendoza, 356, 377;
Bu Abd Allah's sword, 356, 365;
courts and halls of the Alhambra, 358-362;
other Moorish remains, 362-365

H

Hamed Zirári, story of: protection system, 242-246

Hareems, royal, 73-75;
and other, 82-87

Hasheesh, opium of Morocco, 130

Hay, Sir John Drummond, 294

Herbs, fragrant, use of, 86, 108, 122

I

Infant mortality in Morocco high, 96

Irving, Washington, at Granáda, 354;
his "Tia Antonia," 354

Ismaïl the Bloodthirsty exchanges compliments with Queen Anne, 9

J

Jaca, site of desperate battle between Spaniards and Moors, 378

Jelálli Zarhôni, the "Rogi," head of the revolt of the Ghaïátà Berbers,
271-273

Jewish interpreter, astute, 214-222

Jews in Morocco, 16-17;
justice for, 252-260;
in Spain, traces of, 334

K

Kabyles, 54

Kaïd, the, and his court, 252-259

Kesk'soo, the national dish, 59, 105, 121, 198, 266

Khalia, staple article of winter diet, 197

Korán, the, at schools, 97;
the standard work at colleges, 98

Kufic inscriptions, 351, 361, 373, 375

L

_L'Aigle_ at Mogador and Agadir, 35

"Land of the Moors, The," 292

_Lex talionis_, 48

M

Machiavellian arts, Moors excel in, 38

Madrid Convention of 1880 ... 282, 382;
essential features of, 289, 290

Madrid, Moorish remains in, 376

Malaga, Moorish dockyard, 370

Market-place, Moorish, 107-110, 121-123, 125-132;
and marketing, 109, 113-115, 118-124

Marrákesh, founded in the middle of the 11th century, 5;
kingdom of, 5, 14;
the Kûtûbîya at, 44, 337, 346

Marriage in Morocco, 75, 77;
country wedding, 88-93;
feastings, presents, and rejoicings, 88-91

Mauretania Tingitana, titular North African bishopric still, 3

Mavrogordato, Kyrios Dimitri: typical embassy, 206-232

Medicine-men, 166-178;
cupping, 167-169, 197;
exorcising, 169, 171;
cauterizing, 170;
charms, 172;
curious remedies, 174-177;
philtres and poisons, 177

Mekka, pilgrimage to. _See_ Pilgrimage

Mendoza, Cardinal, 355, 356;
remains of the Mendozas, 377

Merchants, Moorish, 109, 113-115

Mérida, Muslim toleration at, 373

Mokhtar and Zóharah, wedding of, 88-93

Monk, General, 9

Moors in Spain, traces of. _See_ Spain

Morals, Moorish, lax, 39-44, 101

Morocco: retrospect, 1-13;
of present day, 14-65;
races: Berbers, Arabs, Moors, 15-17, 47-62;
life of the people--society, business, pastime, religion, 63-204;
diplomacy (_q.v._);
law and justice, 233-260;
the political situation (_q.v._);
her neighbours, 307-331;
Moors in Spain (_q.v._);
"Morocco news," _Al-moghreb Al-aksa_, 381-394

Morocco-Algerian frontier, France "policing" the, 288

Mosques, French treatment of, 315, 319

Mulai Abd Allah V., 1756, makes war upon Gibraltar, 11

Mulai Abd el Azîz IV., present Sultan, 267-291

Mulai Abd el Káder, a favourite saint, 115

Mulai el Hasan III., late Sultan, 24, 40, 267

Mulai Idrees, direct descendant of Mohammed, and early Arabian
missionary to Morocco, 4;
founded the Shurfà Idreeseeïn dynasty, 5

Mulai Yakûb el Mansûr, builder of mosque towers at Sevílle, Marrákesh,
and Rabat, 347

Musical instruments, 135, 139, 151, 160

O

Official rapacity, 28, 242-251, 252-260

Orihuela, palms at, 371

P

Pawkers, Admiral, 11

Pepys, Samuel, once on a Moorish Commission, 383

Pilgrims to Mekka, 191-204;
sea-route preferred to-day, 191;
camp at Tangier, 192-200;
comforts and discomforts, 192-200;
a novel tent, 193-195;
food, 197-199;
returning home, 201-204

Piracy of Moors, 7-9;
tribute extorted from European Powers, 9, 10, 12;
abandoned by Algiers, 12;
not wholly unknown to-day, 13

Political situation, the, 267-291;
the Sultan and reforms, 268-270;
unsettled state of the empire, 270-275;
a change welcome, 276;
agreement among the three great Powers remote, 276;
Anglo-French Agreement (_q.v._);
famine and unrest, 277;
German interests, 280;
Spanish interests, 283;
conference proposed, 282, 284;
points for discussion, 285-288;
"Morocco news" must be received with caution, 381-394

Postal reform needed, 286

Powder play, 91, 94, 121, 135

Prayer, Moslem, 69, 142, 152;
call to, 69, 70

Prisons and prisoners, miserable, 233-241;
long terms, 234-237;
the lash, 238, 246;
the bastinado, 255;
Jews in, 260

Protection system, the, 29, 242-251;
the need: story of Hamed Zirári, 242-246;
the search: story of Abd Allah bin Boo Shaïb es-Sálih, 247-251;
patent of, 251;
"farming," 251 _note_

R

Rabat, Hassan tower at, 347, 348

Railways would be welcomed by the Sultan, 297

Raïsûli, rebel leader in the disaffected north, 273-275

Rio Tinto copper-mines, 368

Ronda, corn-mills at, 369

Rosebery, Lord, on Morocco, 387

Rudolf II., 1604: his active policy respecting Moroccan affairs, 280 _note_

S

Saragossa, the Aljaferia at, 378

School, Moorish, 97, 98

Sevílle, 337, 346-352, 367;
Girálda tower, 346-348;
palace, El Kasar, 349-351;
royal "improvers" of Moorish work, 350;
capital of Charles V., 352;
Moorish remains at, 367

Sherley, Sir Anthony, 1604, adventurer and diplomatist, 280 _note_

Shurfà Idreeseeïn dynasty founded by Mulai Idrees, 5

Sidi Mohammed, son of Mulai Abd Allah V., 11

Si Marzak and his fair Azîzah, the loves of, 160-162

Slave-markets, Marrákesh and Fez, 179-181

Slavery in Morocco, 8, 17, _et passim_, 179-190;
sources of supply, 180;
girls for hareems, 181;
treatment fairly kind, 181, 182;
men have risen to high positions, 182;
use chiefly domestic, 183;
a slave-girl's cruel story, 185-190

Smeerah, quaint incident at, 198

Smin, use of, 112, 131

Smith, Sir Chas. Euan, 206

Snake-charming, 137, 151-158

Social life, Moorish, 82-87

Spain, Moorish empire in, founded by Berbers, 6, 54;
footprints of Moors in, 332-379;
place-names and words of Arabic origin, 333, 369;
physiognomy of the people, 335;
habits and customs, 335;
salutations, 336;
narrow streets, 336;
forts and mosques (churches), 337;
the mosque at Córdova (_q.v._);
Girálda and El Kasar at Sevílle (_q.v._);
the Alhambra at Granáda (_q.v._);
other Moorish towns, villages, castles, and remains, 366-379;
women of, at the battle of Jaca, 378

Sports and pastimes, Moorish:
active, 96, 133-137;
passive, 138-150, 151-158, 159-165

Stamps and stamp-dealers, 287

Story-teller, the, 122, 137, 138-150;
Mulai Abd el Káder and the Monk of Monks, 141-148

T

Tafilált, home for discarded Sultanas, 73

Tangier, English cede possession of, 9, 383;
drunkenness and vice, 41;
North African Mission, 42;
shopping in, 118-124;
market-place, 121-123;
Sunday market, 125-132;
salt-pans, 129;
English Church at, 132;
starting-place for Mekka pilgrims, 192, 196;
residence of ambassadors, 205;
gaol at, 233;
many Frenchmen at, 300

Tarifa, Moorish remains at, 366

Tarragona, cathedral of, 373

Tea, making, 86, 103

Tilework of Algeria, 316

Toledo, 336, 373;
Moorish hydraulists, 374;
Ez-Zarkal's water-clocks, 374;
cathedral, 374;
sword-manufacture, 375

Tortosa, ancient pirate stronghold, 372

Tripoli, city and people, 326-331;
the Turkish element in, 326;
viewed from Morocco, 326-331;
mosques, 328;
irrigation, 330

Tunis, city, 321, 322

Tunisia, 299, 308;
viewed from Morocco, 318-325;
under French rule, 318-320;
Jews in, 319;
Arabs in, 322;
Moors in, 322;
women in, 325

V

Valencia, ancient Moorish paradise, 372

W

Water-carriers, Moorish, 132, 149

Water-clocks, Ez-Zarkal's, 374

Wazzân, Shareef of, present representative of Shurfá Idreeseeïn dynasty,
5, 296

Wilhelm II. in Tangier Bay, 281

Women of Morocco, occupations, 58, 62, 77, 111, 134;
seclusion, 64, 77, 83, 103, 107;
subservient position, 71-81, 107;
possibilities of influence, 73;
marriages, 75, 77, 88-93;
divorce, 76;
social visits, 82-87;
wearing apparel, 84;
excellent cooks, 85, 105, 111, 112;
slaves, 181, 183, 185, 190;
women in Tunisia, 325;
in Tripoli, 329

X

Xeres, Old, Moorish citadel, 367

Z

Zarhôn, most sacred town, 5

Zawîah of Sîdi Abd er-Rahmán, 316

Zummeetah, "mixed," quaint story of, 198

THE END

PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, LONDON AND BECCLES.

Transcriber's Note:

Page 6: Missing accent added to Seville (Sevílle). Page 36: corrected mis-matched quotes. Page 44: restored missing ^ accent to Karûeeïn Page 104: 'whch' corrected to 'which'. Page 128: 'beats' changed to 'beasts', to fit context. Page 130: 'flead' [sic] Page 153: corrected mis-matched quotes. ("And when at home? ') Page 185: 'Rabhah' is spelled 'Rabbah' in previous illustration. Page 198: sic: carraway/caraway Page 263: changed comma for period at sentence end. (sighted, This) Page 273: 'through' changed to 'though', to fit context. Page 274: 'accetpance' changed to 'acceptance'. Page 284: 'territoral' changed to 'territorial'. Page 289: carcase/carcass, both are correct: Oxford Dictionary. Page 299: sic: instal/install. Page 346: added missing accent to III SEVILLE (SEVÍLLE), for conformity. (II CÓRDOVA is accented). Page 349: added missing accent to Giralda (Girálda), for conformity. Page 353: corrected 'architectual' to 'architectural'. Page 372: comma corrected to period. (a Moorish cistern hard by.) Page 296: colon corrected to semicolon. (Moorish worshippers in, 342;). Page 296: added comma (Debts in Morocco, how settled, 30-34). Page 377: added closing quote to "Castle of Ayûb. Page 395: 'Bobadil' changed to 'Boabdil'. Page 395: removed extraneous '378' reference for Charlemagne. Page 396: removed extraneous '3' reference for Ferdinand and Isabella. Page 397: removed extraneous entry (368) for 'kufic inscriptions'; changed '575' to '375'. Page 398,399: Missing accent added to Seville (Sevílle). Page 399: missing accent added to Cordova (Córdova). Page 399: comma added after 'remains' (other Moorish towns, villages, castles, and remains, 366-379;). Page 400: comma added after 'occupations' (Women of Morocco, occupations, 58, 62, 77, 111, 134;).

oe ligatures are indicated with [oe]

I also removed the partial square brackets before or after the photographer's names accompanying Illustration titles.