Chapter XCV: Letter 250: To Mr. Murray

"Milan, November 1. 1816.

"I have recently written to you rather frequently but without any
late answer. Mr. Hobhouse and myself set out for Venice in a few
days; but you had better still address to me at Mr. Hentsch's,
Banquier, Geneva; he will forward your letters.

"I do not know whether I mentioned to you some time ago, that I had
parted with the Dr. Polidori a few weeks previous to my leaving
Diodati. I know no great harm of him; but he had an alacrity of
getting into scrapes, and was too young and heedless; and having
enough to attend to in my own concerns, and without time to become
his tutor, I thought it much better to give him his congé. He
arrived at Milan some weeks before Mr. Hobhouse and myself. About a
week ago, in consequence of a quarrel at the theatre with an
Austrian officer, in which he was exceedingly in the wrong, he has
contrived to get sent out of the territory, and is gone to
Florence. I was not present, the pit having been the scene of
altercation; but on being sent for from the Cavalier Breme's box,
where I was quietly staring at the ballet, I found the man of
medicine begirt with grenadiers, arrested by the guard, conveyed
into the guard-room, where there was much swearing in several
languages. They were going to keep him there for the night; but on
my giving my name, and answering for his apparition next morning,
he was permitted egress. Next day he had an order from the
government to be gone in twenty-four hours, and accordingly gone he
is, some days ago. We did what we could for him, but to no purpose;
and indeed he brought it upon himself, as far as I could learn, for
I was not present at the squabble itself. I believe this is the
real state of his case; and I tell it you because I believe things
sometimes reach you in England in a false or exaggerated form. We
found Milan very polite and hospitable[127], and have the same
hopes of Verona and Venice. I have filled my paper.

"Ever yours," &c.

[Footnote 127: With Milan, however, or its society, the noble traveller was far from being pleased, and in his Memoranda, I recollect, he described his stay there to be "like a ship under quarantine." Among other persons whom he met in the society of that place was M. Beyle, the ingenious author of "L'Histoire de la Peinture en Italie," who thus describes the impression their first interview left upon him:--

"Ce fut pendant l'automne de 1816, que je le rencontrai au théâtre de la _Scala_, à Milan, dans la loge de M. Louis de Brême. Je fus frappé des yeux de Lord Byron au moment où il écoutait un sestetto d'un opéra de Mayer intitulé Elena. Je n'ai vu de ma vie, rien de plus beau ni de plus expressif. Encore aujourd'hui, si je viens à penser à l'expression qu'un grand peintre devrait donner an génie, cette tête sublime reparaît tout-à-coup devant moi. J'eus un instant d'enthousiasme, et oubliant la juste répugnance que tout homme un peu fier doit avoir à se faire présenter à un pair d'Angleterre, je priai M. de Brême de m'introduire à Lord Byron, je me trouvai le lendemain à dîner chez M. de Brême, avec lui, et le celèbre Monti, l'immortel auteur de la _Basvigliana_. On parla poésie, on en vint à demander quels étaient les douze plus beaux vers faits depuis un siècle, en Français, en Italien, en Anglais. Les Italiens présens s'accordèrent à designer les douze premiers vers de la _Mascheroniana_ de Monti, comme ce que l'on avait fait de plus beau dans leur langue, depuis cent ans. _Monti_ voulut bien nous les réciter. Je regardai Lord Byron, il fut ravi. La nuance de hauteur, ou plutôt l'air d'un homme _qui se trouve avoir à repousser une importunité_, qui déparait un peu sa belle figure, disparut tout-à-coup pour faire à l'expression du bonheur. Le premier chant de la _Mascheroniana_, que Monti récita presque en entier, vaincu par les acclamations des auditeurs, causa la plus vive sensation à l'auteur de Childe Harold. Je n'oublierai jamais l'expression divine de ses traits; c'était l'air serein de la puissance et du génie, et suivant moi, Lord Byron n'avait, en ce moment, aucune affectation à se reprocher."]

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