Chapter M (2)

St. Martin’s in the Fields is an elegant edifice built with stone. In the west front is an ascent by a very long flight of steps to a very noble portico of Corinthian columns, which support a pediment in which is the royal arms in has relief. The same order is continued round in pilasters, and in the intercolumniations are two series of windows surrounded with rustic. On each side the doors, on the sides which are near the corners, are lofty Corinthian columns; the roof is concealed by a handsome balustrade, and the spire is stately and elegant.

The decorations on the inside are extremely fine; the roof is richly adorned with fret-work; slender Corinthian columns raised on high pedestals, rising in the front of the galleries, serve to support both them and the roof, which on the sides rests upon them in a very ornamental arch-work. The east end is richly adorned with fret-work and gilding, and over the altar is a large window finely painted.

This church was repaired and beautified in 1758.

With respect to this noble edifice, says the author of the _Review_, “I could wish that a view was opened from the Mews to St. Martin’s church; I don’t know any of the modern buildings about town which better deserves such an advantage. The portico is at once elegant and august, and if the steps arising from the street to the front could have been made regular, and on a line from end to end, it would have given it a very considerable grace; but as the situation of the ground would not allow it, this is to be esteemed a misfortune rather than a fault. The round columns at each angle of the church are very well contrived, and have a very fine effect in the profile of the building; the east end is remarkably elegant, and very justly challenges a particular applause. In short, if there is any thing wanting in this fabric, ’tis a little more elevation, which, I presume, is apparently wanted within, and would create an additional beauty without. I can’t help thinking too that, in complaisance to the galleries, the architect has reversed the order of the windows, it being always usual to have the large ones nearer the eye, and the small, by way of Attic story, on the top.”

This church is a vicarage, in the gift of the Bishop of London.

_St._ MARTIN’S _Church yard_, St. Martin’s lane, Charing Cross.

_St._ MARTIN’S _court_, a large, handsome court, with a free stone pavement in St. Martin’s lane, Charing Cross.

_St._ MARTIN’S IRONMONGER LANE, a church which stood at the corner of Church alley, in Ironmonger lane, and in Cheap ward; but being destroyed by the dreadful fire of London, and not rebuilt, the parish was united to St. Olave Jewry. _Newc. Rep. Eccles._

_St._ MARTIN’S _lane_, 1. Opposite Northumberland house in the Strand; thus named from the church of St. Martin’s in the Fields. 2. Canon street, Walbrook; so named from the church of St. Martin’s Orgar, which was formerly on the east side of it.

_St._ MARTIN’S LE GRAND, extends from the corner of Blowbladder street to Aldersgate. This street, as far as Bell court near St. Anne’s lane, as well as all the courts on each side, is within its own liberty, and in the government of Westminster. It took its name from a collegiate church founded here by one Ingalricus and his brother Edward, in the year 1056, for a Dean, secular Canons, and Priests, and dedicated to St. Martin. Afterwards the addition of _le Grand_ was added, from the extraordinary privileges of sanctuary granted to it by several Monarchs. Hither thieves, ruffians, and murderers used to fly for safety; here robbers brought their stolen goods, which they shared among themselves, or sold to the inhabitants: here also lived the makers of picklocks; the counterfeiters of keys and seals; the forgers of false evidence; those who made chains, beads, and plate of gilt copper, which they sold for gold; and, in short, gamesters, bawds, and strumpets. To so great a height of licentiousness was this sanctuary grown, that in the reign of Henry VII. the Sheriffs of London venturing to take from thence by violence a person who had taken sanctuary there, the Abbot of Westminster exhibited a bill to the King against them, upon which the cause was heard in the Star-chamber, and the Sheriff severely fined. _Maitland._

Though this place is in a manner in the heart of the city, it is still in the liberty of Westminster; and the inhabitants are governed, and vote accordingly. The courts and alleys are now chiefly inhabited by taylors and others who are not free of the city; for all foreigners carry on their trades, and professions there without molestation.

_St._ MARTIN’S LE GRAND COURT. As St. Martin’s le Grand is a liberty distinct from the government of London, and subject to the Deanery of Westminster, it has a court of record kept every Wednesday, for the trial of all personal actions of what nature soever, and there is a court-house and a prison.

In this court the leading process is a _capias_ against the body, or an attachment against the goods; so that a man’s goods may be seized in his own house, upon the first process, if he himself be not taken: which is according to the practice of all ancient liberties or franchises. _Stow._

_St._ MARTIN’S _Ludgate_, on the north side of Ludgate street, almost contiguous to the gate, and in the ward of Faringdon within. The old church being consumed by the fire of London, the present edifice was erected in its place. The body is not seen from the street; but is tolerably enlightened. The steeple consists of a plain tower, and a pretty lofty spire raised on a substantial arcade, so that it has at once the appearance of strength and lightness.

The patronage of this rectory was anciently in the Abbot and Convent of Westminster; but on the suppression of their monastery, King Henry VIII. erected Westminster into a bishopric, and gave the advowson of this church to the Bishop; but the new see being dissolved by Edward VI. Queen Mary granted it to the Bishop of London, and his successors, in whom it still remains.

The Rector receives, by act of Parliament, in lieu of tithes, 160l. _per annum_. _Newcomb’s Eccles. Rep._

Mr. Strype, in his edition of Stowe’s Survey, gives several monumental inscriptions in this church, from which we shall select the two following; the first to the memory of William Yeardley and his wife, the former of whom died on the 28th of October 1523, and the latter on the 20th of July 1533.

William Yeardley, and Elizabeth his wife,
Who lived on earth free from strife,
Not farre from this, in earth doth lye,
To shew that all that live must dye.
Where they do quietly expect
To rise again as God’s elect.
They left four daughters and a sonne,
Who left them this when they were gone.

The other is on Florens Caldwell, Esq; citizen and haberdasher, and Mary his wife, the latter of whom died June 19, 1590.

Earth goes to earth, as mold to mold,
Earth treads on earth, glittering in gold,
Earth as to earth returne neare should,
Earth shall to earth goe ere he would,
Earth upon earth consider may,
Earth goes to earth naked away.
Earth, though on earth be stout and gay,
Shall from earth pass poore away.
Be merciful and charitable,
Relieve the poor as thou art able;
A shrowd to thy grave
Is all thou shalt have.

_St._ MARTIN’S ORGARS, a rectory, the church of which was situated on the east side of St. Martin’s lane near Canon street, in Candlewick ward, and is so named from its dedication to St. Martin; and the additional epithet of _Orgars_, from Odgarus or Ordgarus, who was probably its founder or patron: but this church being destroyed with the rest of the public edifices in the fire of London in 1666, and not rebuilt, the parish was annexed to the church of St. Clement Eastcheap. _Newc. Rep. Eccles. Paroch._

In this church was a tomb with the following epitaph, mentioned by Mr. Strype in his edition of Stowe’s Survey, on Sir Allen Cotton, Knt. Alderman, and sometime Lord Mayor of London, who died on the 24th of September 1628, leaving three sons and two daughters; and these sons caused his monument to be erected,

When he left earth, rich bounty dy’d,
Mild courtesie gave place to pride:
Soft Mercie to bright Justice said,
O sister! we are both betray’d;
White Innocence lay on the ground
By Truth, and wept at either’s wound.
The sons of Levi did lament,
Their lamps went out, their oil was spent.
Heav’n hath his soul, and only we
Spin out our lives in misery.
So, Death, thou missest of thy ends,
And kill’st not him, but kill’st his friends.

_St._ MARTIN’S OUTWICH, at the south east angle of Threadneedle street, in Broad street ward, owes its additional epithet to William and John de Oteswich, who were some time the proprietors thereof. The patronage of this church was indeed anciently in the family of the Earls of Surry; but afterwards coming to the de Oteswiches, they conferred it upon the company of Merchant Taylors, in whom it still remains. The Rector receives only 40l. a year in tithes. _Maitland._

This is one of those few churches that escaped the fire in 1666, and with some repairs has stood ever since, and may stand much longer, though it is already above 220 years old.

This edifice is an old Gothic structure of the meaner style; it is sixty-six feet long, and forty-two broad; the height of the roof is thirty-one feet, and the height of the steeple, sixty-five feet. The body is of brick, strengthened at the corners by a massy rustic: the windows, which are large, are of the coarse Gothic kind, and the top is surrounded with plain square battlements. From the tower, which is extremely plain and simple, rises a turret, that is open, arched, and supported by four piers; and from the dome rises a ball and fane.

The New View of London has the following epitaph in this church.

In memory of John Wright, _anno sal._ 1633, aged 24.

Reader, thou may’st forbear to put thine eyes
To charge for tears, to mourn these obsequies;
Such charitable drops would best be given
To those who late, or never come to heav’n.
But here you would, by weeping on this dust,
Allay his happiness with thy mistrust;
Whose pious closing of his youthful years
Deserves thy imitation, not thy tears.

_St._ MARTIN’S POMARY, or Ironmonger lane, Cheapside, is supposed by Mr. Stowe to have derived its additional epithet of _Pomary_, from apple trees growing about it; which is the more probable, as in his time there were large void spaces near it. This church stood at the corner of Ironmonger lane, and in Cheap ward; but suffering by the dreadful fire of London, the parish was united to the church of St. Olave’s Jewry.

MARTIN’S _rents_, Queen street, New Gravel lane.†

MARTIN’S _street_, Thames street.

_St._ MARTIN’S VINTRY, stood in Thames street, near the south east corner of Queen street, and in Vintry ward. This church, which was a rectory, received its additional denomination from its being situated among the wine tunners, wine merchants, and coopers: but sharing the common fate in the dreadful catastrophe of 1666, and not being rebuilt, the parish was united to that of St. Michael’s Royal, and 120l. a year was settled upon the Rector in lieu of tithes. _Maitland._

MARTLET’S _court_, Bow street, Covent Garden.†

_St._ MARY ABCHURCH, in Abchurch lane, Candlewick ward, owes its name to its dedication to the Virgin Mary, and the additional appellation of _Ab_ or _Upchurch_, was given it on account of its elevation in comparison of the neighbouring ground towards the Thames, and to distinguish it from the many other churches of the same name in this city. A church dedicated to St. Mary has stood here from very early times; and we find that in the year 1448, it was in the patronage of the Prior and Canons of St. Mary Overy’s; but devolving to the crown in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, her Majesty granted the perpetual advowson to _Corpus Christi_ college in Cambridge, wherein it still remains, though in ecclesiastical affairs, it is subject to the Archdeacon. _Maitland._

The old church stood till it was consumed by the fire in 1666, after which the present structure was raised in its room in the year 1686.

The building is of brick, strengthened by rustic quoins of stone at the corners, with three windows on each side, of which the middle one is the principal, that rising higher, and taking up the space above, while the others, which are smaller, have round windows over them; these have all stone cases. The tower rises square with the corners strengthened with rustic; and a large window in the center of each face, ornamented like the rest. From this tower rises a kind of dome, and upon its summit stands a plain spire supported by a lanthorn base.

_St._ MARY ALDERMANBURY, by the north east corner of Love lane, has a fine situation, with a large area, besides the church yard in the front. A church of the same name appears from ancient records to have been situated there so early as about the year 1300; however, great part of the old structure was taken down in 1633, and rebuilt at a considerable expence; but thirty three years afterwards it was destroyed by the fire of London, and ten years after that dreadful event, it was finished in the present form.

It is a plain stone building, likely to stand for ages; the body is well enlightened by a range of large well-proportioned windows, and the corners are wrought with rustic: it is 72 feet long, and 45 broad; the roof is 38 feet high, and the steeple about 90 feet. It has a plain solid tower, constructed in the same manner as the body of the church; and the angles in the upper stage are adorned with rustic: the cornice is supported by scrolls, and above it is a plain Attic course: in this rises a turret with a square base that supports the dial; this turret is arched, but the corners are massy: its roof is terminated in a point on which is placed the fane.

The patronage of this church appears to have been anciently in the Dean and Chapter of St. Paul’s; but the parishioners have ever since the reformation had the right of chusing their own Minister, who must however be licenced by the Bishop of London; but in matters ecclesiastical it is subject to the Archdeacon, except as to wills and administrations, which belong to the Commissary. The Incumbent receives by act of Parliament 150l. a year from the parish.

_St._ MARY ALDERMARY, on the east side of Bow lane, in Cordwainer street ward, has its additional epithet of Aldermary, or Elder Mary, from its being the most ancient church in this city dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The last church, which was erected at the expence of Henry Keeble, was destroyed by the fire of London in 1666; but it was afterwards erected at the expence of Henry Rogers, Esq; who generously gave 5000l. towards rebuilding it.

This Gothic edifice is very spacious, it being an hundred feet in length and sixty-three in breadth; the height of the roof is forty-five feet, and that of the steeple an hundred and thirty-five. The body is enlightened by a single series of large Gothic windows. The wall has well-contrived buttresses and battlements; these buttresses run up pilaster fashion, in two stages, not projecting in the old manner from the body of the building. The tower, which is full of ornament, consists of five stages, each of which, except the lowest, has one Gothic window; and the pinacles, which are properly so many turrets, are continued at each corner down to the ground, divided into stages as the body of the tower, and cabled with small pillars bound round it, with a kind of arched work, and subdivisions between. _English Architecture._

This rectory is one of the thirteen peculiars belonging to the Archbishop of Canterbury; and the parish of St. Thomas Apostles being annexed to this church by an act of Parliament granted in the reign of King Charles II. the profits of the Rector are greatly augmented, he receiving 150l. _per annum_ in lieu of tithes, and about 100l. a year by glebe.

_St._ MARY AT HILL, on the west side of St. Mary Hill, in Billingsgate ward, owes its additional epithet to its situation on an eminence. This church is of considerable antiquity, since a chantry was founded in it so early as about the year 1336.

It is remarkable, that in the year 1497, digging in this church for the foundation of a wall, the corpse of Alice Hackney, who died about the year 1322, was discovered in a very rotten coffin; and that the skin was sound and flexible, and the joints pliable, though buried about 175 years. The body was kept above ground three or four days, without any noisome smell, but then beginning to be tainted was again laid in the ground.

Though this church was not destroyed by the fire of London, every thing combustible in it was consumed; it was however soon after repaired, and the parish of St. Andrew Hubbard annexed to it. It is a well-proportioned Gothic structure, consisting of a plain body enlightened by large windows, and a tower crowned by a pretty handsome turret.

The advowson of this church appears to have been in private hands, till about the year 1638, when it was purchased by the parish; but since the parish of St. Andrew Hubbard was united to it, the Duke of Somerset, who is patron thereof, presents in his turn. The Rector receives 200l. a year in lieu of tithes, and about 24l. _per annum_ by glebe.

_St._ MARY AX, a street on the north side of Leadenhall street. Here was anciently a church dedicated not only to the Virgin Mary, but to St. Ursula and her eleven thousand virgins; but it was commonly called _St. Mary at the Ax_, from the sign of the _Ax_ over against the east end of the church; and sometimes it was named St. Mary Papillar, from a plat of ground belonging to the Skinners company, that lay on the north side of it; but this parish being, about the year 1565, united to the parish church of St. Andrew Undershaft, St. Mary at the Ax was let out as a warehouse to a merchant; but the street however in which this edifice stood, still retains its name. _Maitland._

MARYBON. See _St._ MARY LA BONNE.

MARYBON _Fields_, the fields between London and Marybon, or St. Mary la Bonne.

MARYBON _lane_, Tyburn road.

MARYBON _passage_, Oxford street.

MARYBON _place_, Little Castle street.

MARYBON _road_, Oxford street.

MARYBON _street_, near Warwick street, Marybon.

_St._ MARY BOTHAW, stood on the east side of Turnwheel lane near Dowgate hill, and took its additional name, according to the surmise of Mr. Stowe, from its vicinity to a _Boat haw_, or boat-builder’s yard in that neighbourhood. This church, which was one of the thirteen peculiars belonging to the Archbishop of Canterbury, having suffered greatly by the fire of London, and not being rebuilt, the parish was annexed to that of St. Swithin.

MARY CLARKE’S _yard_, Gravel lane.†

_St._ MARY COLECHURCH, stood in the Poultry, at the south west corner of the Old Jewry, in Cheap ward, and owed its additional epithet of Colechurch, to one Cole, its founder: but suffering the fate of most of the other public buildings in 1666, and not being rebuilt, the parish was united to the neighbouring church of St. Mildred. _Stow._

_St._ MARY OF GRACE, an abbey of Cistertian monks, founded in the reign of Edward III. on Tower hill, where the victualling office is now situated.

MARY GRAY’S _yard_, Gravel lane.†

_St._ MARY LA BONNE, thus called from its being supposed to signify _St. Mary the Good_; though its original name, according to Maitland, was Maryborne. This gentleman gives the following account of the rise of this village, which is now almost united to this great metropolis: the village of Tyborne going to decay, and its church, named St. John the Evangelist, left alone by the side of the highway, it was robbed of its books, vestments, bells, images, and other decorations; on which the parishioners petitioned the Bishop of London for leave to take down their old, and erect a new church elsewhere, which being readily granted in the year 1400, they erected a new church where they had some time before built a chapel, and that structure being dedicated to the Virgin Mary, received the additional epithet of Borne, from its vicinity to the neighbouring brook or bourn.

This village, if it may be still called by that name, is almost joined by new buildings to this metropolis; and the new buildings this way are now increasing so very fast, that it will undoubtedly in a very short time be quite joined, and become a part of it. The old church, which was a mean edifice, was pulled down, and a one erected in 1741. This structure is built with brick in as plain a manner as possible. It has two series of small arched windows on each side, and the only ornaments are a vase at each corner, and a turret at the west end. There are here also a French meeting-house, a charity school, and a place of public entertainment, which has a pleasant garden, and a band of vocal and instrumental music. This may be considered as a kind of humble imitation of Vauxhall.

_St._ MARY LE BOW, near the corner of Bow lane in Cheapside, received the epithet _le Bow_, from its being the first church in this city built with arches: for so early as in the time of William the Conqueror a church of the same name stood in this place; a massy Gothic pile, decorated with lofty arches, which the vulgar of that time called bows, and this name has been continued through all its succeeding changes. Here the court of Arches used to meet, and from these arches received its name. _Stowe._

In the history of the ancient edifice we find, that in the year 1271, a great number of people were destroyed, and many more maimed by the falling of the steeple, after which it remained without one till the year 1512, when it was finished upon the old plan, with stone brought from Caen in Normandy; and thus continued till it was destroyed with the other buildings in the city, by the fire in 1666.

The present edifice, which was built by the great Sir Christopher Wren, was finished in 1673, and is a handsome structure, chiefly admired for the elegance of its steeple, which is extremely light in its aspect, and though very high and full of openings, is secure from any second fall by the geometrical proportion and lightness of its several parts. It is thought to be the most beautiful thing of its kind in Europe.

The tower is square from the ground, and in this form rises to a considerable height; but with more ornament as it advances. The principal decoration of the lower part is the entrance, which is a lofty, noble, and well-proportioned arch, on two of the sides faced with a bold rustic, and raised on a plain solid course from the foundation. Within the arch is a portal of the Doric order; the freeze ornamented with trigliphs, and with sculpture in the metopes; over this arch is an opening with a small balcony, which answers to a window on the other face. The first stage is terminated by an elegant cornice, over which again rises a plain course, where a dial projects into Cheapside. Above this is in each face, large arched windows, with coupled Ionic pilasters at the sides, near the corners. The cornice over these windows supports an elegant balustrade, with Attic pillars over the Ionic columns, supporting turrets, each composed of four handsome scrolls, which join at the top, where are placed urns with flames.

From this part, the steeple rises circular. There is a plain course to the height of half the scrolls, and upon this are raised a circular range of Corinthian columns, while the body of the steeple is continued round and plain within them. These support a second balustrade, with very large scrolls extending from it to the body of the steeple. Above these is placed a series of Composite columns, and from the entablature rises another set of scrolls, supporting the spire which rests upon four balls, and is terminated by a globe, whence rises a fane in the form of a dragon. The view here given will help to illustrate this description.

_S. Wale delin._ _J. Green sc. Oxon._
_Bow Steeple._
]

The author of the Critical Review of the public Buildings, says, “The steeple of Bow church is a master-piece in a peculiar kind of building, which has no fixed rules to direct it, nor is it to be reduced to any settled laws of beauty: without doubt if we consider it only as a part of some other building, it can be esteemed no other than a delightful absurdity: but if either considered in itself, or as a decoration of a whole city in prospect, it is not only to be justified, but admired. That which we have now mentioned is beyond question as perfect as human imagination can contrive or execute; and till we see it outdone, we shall hardly, think it to be equalled.”

This church is a rectory, and the chief of the thirteen peculiars in this city belonging to the Archbishop of Canterbury. To it are united the parishes of Alhallows Honey lane, and St. Pancras, by which the Incumbent’s profits are much increased; he receiving, besides glebe, casualties, and three parsonage houses, 200l. _per annum_, in lieu of tithes.

_St._ MARY LE STRAND, so called from its being situated in the middle of the Strand. The old church belonging to this parish is mentioned so early as the year 1222, when it was named _St. Mary and the Innocents of the Strand_; but how long it stood before that time is uncertain. It was then situated in a pleasant church yard on the south side of the Strand, where the east end of Somerset house is placed; and for the erecting of this last edifice it was taken down in 1549, by order of Edward Seymour, Duke of Somerset, Prime Minister to Edward VI. which depriving the parishioners of a place of worship, they joined themselves to the church of St. Clement’s Danes, and afterwards to that of St. John Baptist in the Savoy, where they continued till the year 1723. At length, the act having passed for erecting the fifty new churches within the bills of mortality, one was appointed for this parish, and the first stone laid on the 25th of February 1714; it was finished in three years and a half, though it was not consecrated till the 1st of January 1723, when, instead of its ancient name, it was called St. Mary le Strand. It was the first finished of any of the fifty new churches.

This is a very superb, though not a very extensive edifice; massy, without the appearance of being heavy, and formed to stand for ages. At the entrance on the west end is an ascent by a flight of steps cut in the sweep of a circle. These lead to a circular portico of Ionic columns covered with a dome, which is crowned with an elegant vase. These columns are continued along the body of the church, with pilasters of the same order at the corners, and in the intercolumniations are niches handsomely ornamented. Over the dome is a pediment supported by Corinthian columns, which are also continued round the body of the structure; over those of the Ionic order beneath; between these are the windows placed over the niches. These columns are supported on pedestals, and have pilasters behind with arches sprung from them, and the windows have angular and circular pediments alternately. In short, a handsome balustrade is carried round the top, and its summit is adorned with vases. The steeple is light though solid, and ornamented with Composite columns and capitals.

This structure, in the opinion of some, will shew late posterity, that the period when it was built afforded architects who might have done honour to Italy; while others condemn it, as little more than a cluster of ornaments without a proper plan or model to be adorned.

We shall not here decide which of these opinions is most judicious; but shall leave it to the decision of each person’s judgment who examines the edifice itself: we cannot however help observing, that the situation of the west front is as happy as can be wished for being viewed at a distance; and yet it has not this advantage in perfection, a watch house being erected in the middle of the street directly before it, which in a great measure spoils the prospect, and prevents its terminating the vista so agreeably as it otherwise would.

This church is a rectory in the gift of the Bishop of Worcester; the value of the living is 225l. _per annum_, besides surplice fees; of this sum one hundred pounds has been given and settled by Parliament, and an hundred and twenty-five pounds is raised by the inhabitants by a rate of four pence in the pound, in lieu of tithes. _Newc. Rep. Eccles. Paroch._

_St._ MARY MAGDALEN’S BERMONDSEY, near the south west corner of Bermondsey street, which we vulgarly call Barnaby street, in Southwark. It is dedicated to Mary Magdalen the sister of Lazarus, who was celebrated for her beauty, and still more for her piety. It appears from the _Conqueror’s Survey_, that a church of the same name was situated in this place so early as the time of the Saxons.

The present edifice, which was built in 1680, is seventy-six feet in length, and sixty-one in breadth; the height to the roof is thirty feet, and the height of the steeple eighty-seven feet. It is a plain structure enlightened by a single series of arched windows with cherubs heads on the top. The walls are of brick plaistered over, and the door-cases and windows cased with stone. The tower, which rises square, is covered with a kind of dome crowned with a turret, whence rises a ball and fane.

The advowson of this church is in lay patrons, and the profits of the rectory are said to amount to about 200l. _per annum_.

_St._ MARY MAGDALEN’S, Milk-street. This church was situated at the west end of Honey lane market, in the ward of Cripplegate within; but being destroyed by the fire of London in 1666, and not rebuilt, the parish was annexed to that of St. Laurence Jewry.

_St._ MARY MAGDALEN’S, Old Fish street, is seated on the north side of Knight Rider’s street, in the ward of Baynard’s castle, and is thus denominated from its vicinity to Old Fish street. There are records of a church in the same place three hundred and fifty years ago. The old edifice was destroyed by the fire of London, and the present singular structure arose from its ruins, and was built in the year 1685.

It is a small well-proportioned church, built with stone, sixty feet in length, forty-eight in breadth, and thirty in height to the roof. It is enlightened by a single series of arched windows, each ornamented with a cherub and scrolls, supporting a cornice, which runs round the building; but these windows are of such an unusual height from the ground, that the doors, which are low and plain, open completely under them: both these and the windows are of the same general construction, and the wall is terminated by a balustrade. The tower is divided into two stages, in the upper of which is a large window on each side. From the top of this tower the work suddenly diminishes in the manner of high steps on each side, and on the top of these is placed a turret, crowned with a very short spire, on which is placed a fane with flames.

To this church the parish of St. Gregory is annexed, by which the rectoral profits are much increased, the Incumbent receiving, besides other profits, 120l. in lieu of tithes.

_St._ MARY MOUNTHAW, situated on the west side of Fish street hill, in Queenhithe ward, received its name from its dedication to the Virgin Mary, and the family of Montalto or Mounthauts, in the county of Norfolk, who were the original founders: but being destroyed in the dreadful fire of London in 1666, and not rebuilt, the parish was, by act of Parliament, annexed to the church of St. Mary Somerset. _Stowe._

_St._ MARY, Newington Butts. See NEWINGTON BUTTS.

_St._ MARY OVERIES. See _St._ SAVIOUR’S.

_St._ MARY OVERIES _Church yard_, in the Borough.

_St._ MARY OVERIES _dock_, at the end of Church way, in the Borough.

_St._ MARY OVERIES _stairs_, Deadman’s place.

_St._ MARY, Rotherhith, is situated near the bank of the Thames, and is distinguished from other churches dedicated to the Virgin Mary, by the name of the place in which it is situated. The old church had stood above 200 years, when in 1736, it was in so ruinous a condition, that the inhabitants applied to Parliament for leave to pull it down, which being granted, the present structure was finished in 1739.

This edifice is built with brick and ornamented with stone. It is enlightened by a double range of windows, and the corners both in the tower and body, are strengthened with a handsome rustic. The tower consists of two stages; in the lower are a door and window, in the upper a window and dial, and the whole is terminated by a balustrade, from which rises a circular base that supports a kind of lanthorn, very elegantly constructed with Corinthian columns; over these are urns with flames; and from the roof of this lanthorn rises a well-constructed spire terminated by a ball and fane.

This church is a rectory in the gift of a lay patron. The profits arising to the Incumbent are said to amount to above 150l. _per annum_.

_The Hospital of St._ MARY ROUNCIVAL, a cell to a priory of that name in Navarre in Spain, situated opposite the end of St. Martin’s lane, where Northumberland house now stands. It was founded and endowed by William Marshal, Earl of Pembroke, in the reign of Henry III. but this hospital was however suppressed by Henry V. and re-founded by Edward IV. in 1476, for a fraternity or brotherhood. At length it was suppressed, with the other religious houses, by King Henry VIII. and afterwards coming to Henry Howard, Earl of Northampton, he caused it to be demolished, and erected upon the site thereof the edifice then named Northampton house. See the article NORTHUMBERLAND HOUSE.

_St._ MARY SOMERSET, opposite Broken wharf in Thames street, and in Queenhithe ward, owes the additional epithet of Somerset (according to Mr. Stowe’s conjecture) to its vicinity to _Sumner’s het_ or _hithe_, a small port or haven resembling that of Queenhithe. A church was situated in this place before the year 1335; but the old edifice sharing the fate of most of the other public buildings, in the fire of London, the present structure was erected in its room.

The body of this edifice is enlightened by a range of lofty arched windows, and the wall is terminated by a balustrade. A well-proportioned square tower rises to a considerable height, and is crowned with a handsome vase at each corner, supported on a very ornamental pedestal, with a handsome turret between in the form of an obelisk, each supported on the same kind of pedestal as the vases, and crowned with a ball.

The patronage of the church is in lay hands, and the parish of St. Mary Mounthaw being annexed to it, the Incumbent’s profits are considerably increased; he having, besides casualties and two parsonage houses, 110l. a year in lieu of tithes, and about 30l. in glebe.

_St._ MARY SPITAL, a priory and hospital founded by Sir Walter Brune, and Rosia, his lady, in the year 1197, who dedicated it to the honour of Jesus Christ and his Mother the Virgin Mary, by the name of _Domus Dei & beatæ Mariæ extra Bishopsgate_.

This hospital surrendered to Henry VIII. when its revenue was found to amount to 478l. a year; and besides the ornaments of the church and other goods belonging to the hospital, there were an hundred and eighty beds for the use of the poor.

A part of a large church yard belonging to this hospital, separated from the rest by a brick wall, was for a long time remaining, with a pulpit cross in it, somewhat like that which formerly stood in St. Paul’s church yard; and on the south side was a handsome house in which the Lord Mayor, Aldermen, Sheriffs, and other persons of distinction sat to hear the sermons preached in Easter holidays.

It was anciently the custom for some learned man, appointed by the Bishops, to preach a sermon at St. Paul’s Cross, relating to Christ’s passion, on Good Friday in the afternoon; and upon Easter Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday, other sermons were preached in the forenoon at the Spital, on Christ’s resurrection: on Low Sunday in the forenoon a rehearsal was made of these four sermons at St. Paul’s Cross, in which they were either commended or censured; and, after all, the Priest made a sermon himself.

At these sermons the Lord Mayor and Aldermen were usually present, with their wives; and since the reformation these sermons are continued by the name of _Spital Sermons_ at St. Bride’s in Fleet street, on Easter Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday.

The pulpit cross was broke down in the grand rebellion. _Maitland._

_St._ MARY’S STAINING, a small church, formerly seated on the north side of Oat lane, in the ward of Aldersgate within. The reason why it received the additional epithet of _Staining_, is very uncertain; some imagining it to be derived from the painter stainers, who might probably live near it; while others suppose that it was originally called _Stany_ or _Stony_ from its being built with stone, to distinguish it from those in the city built with wood, &c. This ancient edifice, however, being destroyed by the fire of London, and not rebuilt, the parish was united to St. Michael’s Wood street. _Stowe._

_St._ MARY WHITECHAPEL, was originally erected as a chapel of ease to the church of St. Dunstan, Stepney; and from its external appearance probably received the additional epithet of _White_. We read of this church in 1329, and the first chapel was probably of much greater antiquity.

The church was anciently denominated _St. Mary Matsellon_, a name which some have ridiculously supposed was derived from the women of the parish having killed a Frenchman, about the year 1428, for murdering and robbing his benefactress, a religious widow, who had generously brought him up almost from his infancy: but this church was known by this name above an hundred years before this bloody catastrophe. Mr. Strype, therefore, in his edition of _Stowe’s Survey_, with greater appearance of reason derives the name from the Hebrew or Syriac word _Matsel_ which signifies a woman who has lately brought forth a son; alluding to Mary’s being delivered of our Saviour: however, this name has given way to the more ancient one of Whitechapel, which is even given to the long street by which the edifice is situated.

The old church being in a very ruinous condition in 1673, it was taken down and rebuilt in the present form. It is a coarse and very irregular building. The body, which is built with brick, and ornamented with stone rustic work at the corners, is ninety-three feet in length; sixty-three in breadth; and the height of the tower and turret eighty feet. The principal door is adorned with a kind of rustic pilasters, with cherubims heads by way of capitals, and a pediment above. The body has many windows, which are of various forms and different sizes, a sort of Venetian, oval and square. The square windows have ill-proportioned circular pediments, and the oval, or more properly elliptic windows (some of which stand upright, and others crosswise) are surrounded with thick festoons. The steeple, which is of stone, and appears to be a part of the old structure, rises above the principal door, and is crowned with a plain square battlement; in the center of which rises a small turret with its dome and fane. _English Architecture._

This church is a rectory, in the gift of the Principal and Scholars of King’s Hall and Brazen Nose College, Oxford. The Incumbent’s profits, according to Mr. Maitland, amount to about 350l. _per annum_.

_St._ MARY WOOLCHURCH-HAW, stood on the east side of Stocks market, in Walbrook ward, and received its additional appellation from a beam in the church yard for the weighing of wool; for in that church yard was anciently kept the wool staple: but this church being destroyed by the fire of London, and not rebuilt, the parish was annexed to the church of St. Mary Woolnoth. _Maitland._

_St._ MARY WOOLNOTH, at the corner of Sherborne lane, and adjoining to the Post Office in Lombard street, is supposed to derive its additional epithet of Woolnoth from its being almost contiguous to the above wool staple, whence it might be called _Woolneah_ or _Woolnigh_, which, by an easy transition, might pass into Woolnoth.

We read of a church with the same addition in 1355. The last suffered by the fire in 1666, when every thing within it was destroyed but the walls; however, being soon after repaired, it continued in a very crazy condition, till it was appointed to be one of the fifty new churches to be erected within the bills of mortality.

In digging a foundation for the present church in 1716, there were discovered, at the depth of fifteen, and twenty-two feet, a great variety of Roman earthen vessels, both for sacred and profane uses; but all broken, together with a considerable number of the tusks and bones of boars and goats, with several medals and pieces of metal; some tesselated work, a part of an aqueduct, and at the bottom of all a well full of dirt, which was no sooner removed, than a fine spring arose, in which is placed a pump with an iron bason. By the great quantity of pot-sheards, &c. found in this place, Mr. Maitland is of opinion, that here was a pottery; and from the tusks and bones he imagines, that near this place stood the temple of Concord, mentioned by the Romans.

The new church was finished in the year 1719, and is a very handsome structure built with stone. On the north side which fronts Lombard street, instead of windows there are three very large and lofty niches adorned with Ionic columns, and surrounded with a bold rustic. Over these is a large cornice, upon which is placed a balustrade. The entrance is at the well end by a lofty rustic arch, over which rises an oblong tower, ornamented with six Composite columns in the front, and two on the sides; upon this is raised a lesser tower of the same form crowned with a balustrade, from the center of which rises a flag staff with a fane. The windows are on the south side, where the edifice is intirely surrounded with houses.

It would be impossible, perhaps, to find a place in the whole city where the principal ornaments of a building could be more completely concealed. The tower can no where be seen to advantage, and can scarce any where be seen at all, except on the roofs of the neighbouring houses and the opposite garret windows: a great deal of expence has therefore been here thrown away in ornaments, to very little purpose.

The advowson of this church was in the Prioress and Convent of St. Helen’s in Bishopsgate street, till at their dissolution they fell to the Crown; when King Henry VIII. granted it to Sir Martin Bowes, in whose family it has ever since continued. The Rector, besides casualties, receives about 22l. a year in glebe, and 160l. _per annum_, in lieu of tithes.

MASONS. This company had their arms granted by Clarencieux, King at arms, in the year 1477, though the members were not incorporated by letters patent, till they obtained them from King Charles II. in 1677. This fraternity is governed by a Master, two Wardens, twenty-two Assistants, and seventy Liverymen, whose fine on admission is 5l. They have a small convenient hall in Masons alley, Basinghall street. _Maitland._

MASONS _alley_, Basinghall street; so called from Masons hall within it.

MASONS _arms yard_, Madox street.*

MASON’S _court_, Brick lane, Spitalfields.†

MASON’S _stairs_, Bankside.†

MASON’S _yard_. North Audley street.†

MAST _yard_, 1. Ratcliff highway. 2. Wapping.

MASTER OF THE CEREMONIES, an officer appointed by King James I. for the more honourable reception of Ambassadors and strangers of quality. As a badge of his office he wears a gold chain, to which hangs a medal that has on one side an emblem of Peace placed under the crown of England, with King James’s motto BEATI PACIFICI, and on the other an emblem of War, with the words DIEU ET MON DROIT. His salary is 300l. a year. He has under him an Assistant and a Marshal, the latter of whom has 6s. 8d. a day. _Chamberlain’s Present State._

MASTERS IN CHANCERY. See the article _Masters in_ CHANCERY.

MASTER OF THE HORSE, the third great officer of the King’s court, has the management and disposal of all the King’s stables and breed of horses; he has authority over the equeries and pages, coachmen, footmen, grooms, riders of the great horse, farriers and smiths; he appoints all the other tradesmen who work for the King’s stables, and by his warrant to the avenor makes them give an oath to be true and faithful. In short, he is intrusted with all the lands and revenues, appropriated for the King’s breed of horses, the expences of the stable, and of the coaches, litters, &c.

He alone has the privilege of making use of any of the horses, pages, or footmen belonging to his Majesty’s stables; and at any solemn cavalcade he rides next the King, and leads a horse of state. His salary is 1276l. 13s. 4d. _per annum_.

MASTER OF THE HOUSHOLD, an officer under the Lord Treasurer of the King’s house, whose office is to survey the accounts of the house.

MASTER OF THE JEWEL HOUSE, an officer who has the care of all the gold and silver plate used at the King’s table; as also of all the loose jewels, chains, &c. in the Tower of London.

MASTER OF THE REVELS, an officer under the Lord Chamberlain, has the management of all the masques and comedies at court, and has a salary of 100l. a year.

MASTER OF THE ROBES, an officer who orders all his Majesty’s robes, as those of his coronation, of St. George’s feast, and of Parliament, and of his wearing apparel. He has a salary of 500l. _per annum_, and under him is a yeoman, three grooms, a page, a brusher, a sempstress, &c.

MATCH _walk_, Upper Shadwell.

MATHAM’S _court_, Threadneedle alley, Little Moorfields.†

MATTHAS’S _court_, Great Hermitage street.†

_St._ MATTHEW’S, Bethnal Green. See BETHNAL GREEN.

_St._ MATTHEW’S _Friday street_, is situated on the west side of that street in the ward of Faringdon within, and owes its name to its dedication to St. Matthew the Evangelist, and its situation. The old church being destroyed by the fire of London in 1666, the present structure was erected in its place. It is a plain stone building, with one series of large arched windows, and at the east end is the steeple, which consists of a square brick tower, void of all ornament.

The patronage of this rectory was anciently in the Abbot and Convent of Westminster, and upon their suppression, when the conventual church was converted into a cathedral, Henry VIII. conferred it upon the Bishop; but the new bishopric being soon after dissolved, King Edward VI. granted it to the Bishop of London, in whom the advowson still continues. To this church the parish of St. Peter Cheap is united.

MAUDLIN’S _rents_, Nightingale lane, East Smithfield.†

MAUL’S _court_, Fore street, Cripplegate.†

MAXHAM’S _court_, Long alley.†

MAXIMUS _court_, Moorfields.†

MAXIN’S _court_, Moorfields.†

MAY FAIR, near Hyde Park; so called from a fair annually held there in the month of May.

MAY FAIR _street_, near Hyde Park.

MAYFIELD’S _buildings_, near Rag Fair.

_Lord_ MAYOR. The chief magistrate of this metropolis was, before the Norman conquest, called the Portreve, or Portgrave, which title in the reign of Henry II. was changed for that of Mayor, a name by which the chief magistrate of the city of Roan, the capital of Normandy, was then distinguished. In 1215 the citizens obtained from King John a charter which granted them the privilege of chusing this magistrate, which was afterwards confirmed by several other royal grants; and the Mayors were elected by the court of Aldermen, and a number of Commons summoned by them, out of each of the wards; but the number thus summoned being occasionally varied at the discretion of the Aldermen, gave great uneasiness to the commonalty, for the removing of which the method of election was altered by an act of Common Council in the year 1476, and the present manner of electing by the Livery of the several companies was established: by virtue of which the Lord Mayor is annually chosen on Michaelmas day.

For this purpose the Liverymen on that day assemble in Guildhall, where, by holding up of hands, they usually chuse two of the senior Aldermen below the chair, who being returned to the court of Lord Mayor and Aldermen, the senior is generally declared Lord Mayor elect.

Some time after, the Lord Mayor elect, accompanied by the Recorder and several of the Aldermen, is presented to the Lord Chancellor, as his Majesty’s representative, for his approbation, without which the person elected has no legal authority to perform the office: but this being obtained, he is on the eighth of November sworn into his office at Guildhall, and the following day before the Barons of the Exchequer at Westminster.

The ninth of November being the day on which the Lord Mayor elect enters upon his office, the Aldermen and Sheriffs attend him to Guildhall in their coaches, and about noon proceed from thence in their coaches to the Three Cranes stairs, where the Lord Mayor, the Lord Mayor elect, the Aldermen, Recorder, and Sheriffs, go on board the city barge, and attended by the several city companies in their several barges, adorned with flags and pendants, proceed by water to Westminster, where his Lordship having taken the oaths prescribed, returns in the same pompous manner to Black Friars stairs, whence the livery of many of the city companies, preceded by colours and bands of music, march to their stands, which are erected on both sides the streets through which his Lordship is to pass.

The Lord Mayor being at length landed at Black Friars, he is preceded by the Artillery company, which is followed by the company of which the Lord Mayor is free. After them follow several others with their music, flags, and streamers, and among the rest the armourers have a person riding on horseback, completely dressed in polished armour. At length march the Lord Mayor’s domestics and servants, followed by his Lordship in the coach of state, and after him come the Aldermen, Recorder, Sheriffs, Chamberlain, Common Serjeant, Town Clerk, &c. in their several coaches and chariots, and in this manner proceed to Guildhall, where a noble entertainment is provided, as there is also for the several Companies at their respective halls.

The power of this great officer is at present much more considerable than it was formerly, for he is not only the King’s representative in the civil government of the city, but also First Commissioner of the lieutenancy, perpetual Coroner and Escheator within the city and liberties of London and the borough of Southwark; Chief Justice of oyer, terminer and goal-delivery of Newgate; Judge of the court of wardmote at the election of Aldermen; Conservator of the rivers Thames and Medway; so that if any citizen or apprentice of London be carried away, and by force detained on ship-board, he can, by his warrant, compel the Captain or Master of such vessel to release such citizen: he is also perpetual Commissioner in all affairs relating to the river Lea, and chief Butler of the kingdom at all coronations, when his fee for that service is a gold cup and cover, with a golden ewer.