Chapter III: How to Make Deck Fittings, Rudder, Etc

I purpose in this chapter to show how to make and fit all that is required on the deck to secure and work the rigging and sails. The following is a diagram of the deck of the ship, with each object in its proper place, and further on will be given enlarged drawings of each, with description:--

The first object, _a_, is a 1½ in. or 2 in. screw-eye, with large eye for the bowsprit to go through; this must be carefully screwed into the thick wood at the stem through the deck; _b_ is the chock for the heel or inner end of the bowsprit to fit in; _c_ is the horse for the foresheet to work on; _d_ is the hole or step for the mainmast; _e_ is the hatchway or opening in the deck, just large enough to admit the hand easily; _f_ is the horse for the mainsheet to travel on; _g g_ and _h h_ are 1 in. eye-bolts (screw-eyes) for the bowsprit guys, and main-backstays to be hooked to; these must be firm and strong. Here is a diagram of masts, spars, and rigging only.

Inserting the screw-eye for the bowsprit, _a_, requires no explanation: it must be just large enough in the eye for the bowsprit to go through; if not large enough, file it to the necessary size with the rat-tail file.

The chock _b_ (p. 49) must be made out of a piece of oak or mahogany about 3 in. long, and about 1 in. thick; a hole ½ in. deep, and of the diameter of the end or heel of the bowsprit should be made in it; thus--; the other end may be tapered off to taste, and screwed strongly right through into the deck exactly amidships. It should be of such a height that when the bowsprit is in its place it shall be perfectly in a line with the mid-deck line, and also with the stem and stern (as shown in the diagram, p. 50). The chock may be placed any distance from the stem, so long as it is not too close to the horse for foresheet (diagram, p. 49).

The horse for foresheet is made as follows: Cut two diamond or other shaped pieces of sheet brass, ⅛ in. thick, and about 1½ in. in length; thus--; make a small hole at each corner, and a larger hole in the centre; then take about 5 in. of thick brass wire, and bend it at the ends so as to be 4 in. apart, put the ends through the plates; thus--, and solder or get soldered, the wire to the plates underneath; bore holes in the deck 4 in. apart, 2 in. or so forward of the mainmast, and at equal distance from the mid-deck line; fit in the two ends, _a a_, and screw the plates firmly to the deck: if it is desired to be very neat, all the small holes should be countersunk.

Another horse must be made exactly the same way, but 1 in. wider and somewhat stronger, for the mainsheet (diagram, p. 49, _f_), and put as near the edge of the stern as due regard for strength will permit.

The step or socket for the mainmast comes next. Get a short piece of brass tube ⅝ in. internal diameter, and about 7½ in. long; have a screw soldered into one end; thus--

Bore a hole in the deck exactly amidships, and of exactly the same diameter as the outside of the pipe or socket 13 in. from the stem, _i.e._ ⅓ the length of the deck; put the brass tube in the hole, and screw it tightly to the bottom of the ship, perpendicular to a line drawn from stem to stern, and also from side to side, so that the mainmast when put in it will be perfectly upright from all sides; file the top of the socket off if too high, so as to leave not more than ¼ in. above the deck.

To make the hatchway or hole (_e_ in diagram, p. 49), cut out an oval or oblong hole in the centre of the deck, just abaft or behind the beam (diagram H, p. 39); a water-tight cover or stopper must be made for this with cork, wood, or anything the maker pleases, it matters not provided it is not much above the level of the deck, is water-tight, and can be taken in or out.

Now bore a small hole through the deck, close to the starboard quarter (see _i_ in diagram, p. 49), make a short peg to fit it, and call it the _pump_; by inclining the ship towards this hole after sailing, and drawing the peg, you can see if she has leaked, and let the water out if necessary.

The screw-eyes _g g_ and _h h_, p. 49, explain themselves by referring to _e_, _f_, _h_, and _i_, in diagram, p. 50; they are to hook on the rigging as there shown. These eye-bolts, _h h_, must be as close abaft the mainmast as is consistent with their properly supporting the mainmast, both laterally and aftwards. The reason is that if placed too far aft they would interfere with the mainboom swinging far enough out when running before the wind; the nearer the mainboom is to a right angle with the keel, the steadier and faster the ship will run before the wind. _g g_ may be in a line with the horse for the foresheet _c_ (diagram, p. 49); care must be taken to screw them through the edge of the deck, and into the gunwale firmly.

To cast the rudder, make a small wooden mould or box similar to that for the keel, about 6 in. long, 3 in. deep, and ½ in. wide.

Insert two moderately thick pieces of brass wire through the bottom, and about an inch into the box (as in dotted line), bend them so as to make them stick in the lead, and just as far apart as are the two screw-eyes for this rudder in diagram “stern,” p. 44; pour in 1¼ lbs. of melted lead, trim the lead with the rasp, and turn the wires thus--; and when hooked into the screw-eyes or gudgeons, it should act easily either to right or left. Skilful or tasteful young model yacht sailors can vary the shape of the rudder; I have given the simplest and easiest shape to make.

This completes all the deck fittings necessary for working and sailing the ship, but if on trial the rudder should be too heavy or too light, another must be made--experience is the best guide.

I need hardly say that every direction I have given need not be followed to the letter; those who see and know what is required can do many things in their own way, and much must necessarily be left to individual taste, skill, and ingenuity.

At this stage, varnish the deck with copal varnish, and paint the hull whatever colour or colours fancy dictates; I, however, advise one colour only for the hull, it is less trouble and easier to repaint or repair, eventualities often recurring with model yachts.