Chapter II: Introduction: By SIR FRANCIS YOUNGHUSBAND, K.C.S.I., K.C.I.E.,

President of the Royal Geographical Society 1

THE NARRATIVE OF THE EXPEDITION
By LIEUT.-COL. C. K. HOWARD-BURY, D.S.O.

CHAP.

I FROM DARJEELING THROUGH SIKKIM 23
II THE CHUMBI VALLEY AND THE TIBETAN PLATEAU 37
III FROM KHAMBA DZONG THROUGH UNKNOWN COUNTRY TO TINGRI 55
IV TINGRI AND THE COUNTRY TO THE SOUTH 71
V THE SEARCH FOR KHARTA 86
VI THE MOVE TO KHARTA 98
VII THE KAMA VALLEY 112
VIII THE UPPER KHARTA VALLEY AND THE 20,000-FOOT CAMP 130
IX THE RETURN TO KHARTA BY THE KAMA VALLEY 146
X THE RETURN JOURNEY TO PHARI 156
XI BACK TO CIVILISATION 170

THE RECONNAISSANCE OF THE MOUNTAIN
By GEORGE H. LEIGH-MALLORY

XII THE NORTHERN APPROACH 183
XIII THE NORTHERN APPROACH (_continued_) 203
XIV THE EASTERN APPROACH 221
XV THE ASSAULT 250
XVI WEATHER AND CONDITION OF SNOW 262
XVII THE ROUTE TO THE SUMMIT 273

NATURAL HISTORY
By A. F. R. WOLLASTON

XVIII AN EXCURSION TO NYENYAM AND LAPCHE KANG 281
XIX NATURAL HISTORY NOTES 290

* * * * *

XX AN APPRECIATION OF THE RECONNAISSANCE. By $1, F.R.S.,
President of the Alpine Club 304

APPENDICES

I THE SURVEY. By Major H. T. MORSHEAD, D.S.O. 319
II THE PHOTOGRAPHIC SURVEY. By Major E. O. WHEELER, M.C. 329
III A NOTE ON THE GEOLOGICAL RESULTS OF THE EXPEDITION.
By A. M. HERON, D.Sc., F.G.S., Geological Survey of India 338
IV THE SCIENTIFIC EQUIPMENT. By A. R. HINKS, F.R.S.,
Secretary of the Royal Geographical Society 341
V MAMMALS, BIRDS AND PLANTS COLLECTED BY THE EXPEDITION.
By A. F. R. WOLLASTON 344
INDEX 351

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

FACING
PAGE

The Summit _Frontispiece_
Chomolhari from the South 46
Loading up at Dochen 50
Kampa Dzong 54
Tinki Dzong 58
Gyangka Range from near Chushar 62
Shekar Dzong 66
The Abbot of Shekar Choete 68
Military Governor, his Wife and Mother 100
The Dzongpen of Kharta and his Wife 106
Lamas of Kharta Monastery 110
Makalu from 21,500-foot peak on ridge south of Kama-chu 112
Makalu and Chomoloenzo 114
Cliffs of Chomoloenzo from camp at Pethang Ringmo 116
The Kama Valley 118
Sea of cloud from peak north of Kama Valley. Kanchenjunga in
distance 138
Chomoloenzo from the alp below the Langma La, Kama Valley 150
Members of the Expedition 178
Cho-Uyo 190
Summit of Mount Everest and North Peak from the Island, West Rongbuk
Glacier 210
Mount Everest from the Rongbuk Glacier, nine miles north-west 214
Summit of Mount Everest and South Peak from the Island, West Rongbuk
Glacier 218
Pethang-tse 222
Summit of Makalu 226
South-east Ridge of Mount Everest from above the 20,000-foot camp,
Kharta Valley 230
North-east of Mount Everest and Chang La from Lhakpa La 246
Mount Everest from the 20,000-foot camp--wind blowing snow off the
mountain 278
Temple at Lapche Kang 286
Gauri-Sankar 288
Lower Kama-chu 290
Junipers in the Kama Valley 294
Forest in the Kama Valley 300
Mount Everest at sunset from the 20,000-foot camp, Kharta Valley 316

LIST OF MAPS

I Map to illustrate the route of the Mount Everest
Expedition. Scale 1/750,000 _At end_
II Map of Mount Everest. Scale 1/100,000 "
III Geological Map of the Mount Everest Region "