Chapter XXVIII: Appendix: V

MAMMALS, BIRDS AND PLANTS COLLECTED BY THE EXPEDITION

BY A. F. R. WOLLASTON

A.--LIST OF MAMMALS COLLECTED

Stoat. _Mustela temon_
Stoat. _Mustela longstaffi_
Marmot. _Marmota himalayana_
Hamster. _Cricetulus alticola tibetanus_, subsp. n.
Vole. _Phaiomys leucurus_
Vole. _Phaiomys everesti_
Vole. _Microtus_ (_Alticola_), sp.
Pika. _Ochotona roylei nepalensis_
Pika. _Ochotona wollastoni_, sp. n.
Pika. _Ochotona curzoniae_

B.--LIST OF BIRDS COLLECTED

Central Asian blackbird. _Turdus maxima_
Solitary thrush. _Monticola solitarius_
White-breasted Asiatic dipper. _Cinclus cashmirensis_
Indian stone-chat. _Saxicola torquata indica_
Gould's desert chat. _Saxicola montana_
Bush chat. _Pratincola prjevalskii_
Indian redstart. _Ruticilla rufiventris_
Guldenstadt's Afghan redstart. _Ruticilla grandis_
White-capped redstart. _Chimarrhornis leucocephalus_
Hodgson's grandala. _Grandala c[oe]licolor_
Tickell's willow-warbler. _Phylloscopus affinis_
Mandelli's willow-warbler. _Phylloscopus mandellii_
Smoky willow-warbler. _Phylloscopus fulviventris_
Spotted bush-warbler. _Lusciniola thoracica_
Prince Henry's laughing thrush. _Trochalopterum henrici_
Eastern alpine accentor. _Accentor rufiliatus_
Red-breasted accentor. _Accentor rubeculoides_
Rufous-breasted accentor. _Accentor strophiatus_
Brown accentor. _Accentor fulvescens_
Sikkim black tit. _Parus beavani_
Wren. _Troglodytes_, sp.
Hodgson's pied wagtail. _Motacilla hodgsoni_
White-faced wagtail. _Motacilla leucopsis_
Yellow-headed wagtail. _Motacilla citreola._
Blyth's pipit. _Anthus citreola_
Indian tree-pipit. _Anthus maculatus_
Hodgson's pipit. _Anthus rosaceus_
Grey-backed shrike. _Lanius tephronotus_
Slaty-blue flycatcher. _Cyornis leucomelanurus_
Himalayan greenfinch. _Hypacanthis spinoides_
Tree-sparrow. _Passer montanus_
Cinnamon tree-sparrow. _Passer cinnamomeus_
Blanford's snow-finch. _Montifringilla blanfordi_
Adams' snow-finch. _Montifringilla adamsi._
Hodgson's ground-finch. _Fringilauda nemoricola_
Brandt's ground-linnet. _Leucosticte brandti._
Walton's twite. _Linota rufostrigata_
Red-breasted rose-finch. _Pyrrhospiza punicea_
Scarlet rose-finch. _Carpodacus erythrinus_
Hodgson's rose-finch. _Carpodacus pulcherrimus_
Severtzoff's rose-finch. _Carpodacus severtzoi_
Prejewalk's rose-finch. _Carpodacus rubicilloides_
Red-headed bullfinch. _Pyrrhula erythrocephala_
Godlevski's meadow bunting. _Emberiza godlevskii_
Elwes' shore-lark. _Otocorys elwesi_
Long-billed calandra lark. _Melanocorpha maxima_
Tibetan skylark. _Alauda inopinata_
Short-toed lark. _Calandrella brachydactyla_
Brook's short-toed lark. _Calandrella acutirostris tibetana_
Chough. _Pyrrhocorax graculus_
Brown ground-chough. _Podoces humilis_
Common hoopoe. _Upupa epops_
Pied crested cuckoo. _Coccystes jacobinus_
Eastern little owl. _Athene bactriana_
White-backed dove. _Columba leuconota_
Snow partridge. _Lerwa lerwa_
Temminck's stint. _Tringa temmincki_
Redshank. _Totanus calidris_
Dusky redshank. _Totanus fuscus_
Greater sand plover. _Aegialitis mongola_
Common tern. _Sterna fluviatilis_

In addition to the above the following birds were identified, but specimens of them were not obtained:--

Wall-creeper
House martin
Sand martin
Rock martin
Alpine chough
Magpie
Black crow
Raven
Swift
Siberian swift
Cuckoo
Himalayan vulture
Laemmergeier
Sea eagle
Pallas' sea eagle
Black-eared kite
Barheaded goose
Ruddy sheldrake
Garganey
Wigeon
Pochard
Gadwall
Hill rock-dove
Chinese turtle dove
Tibetan partridge
Tibetan snow partridge
Blood pheasant
Black-necked crane
White stork
Ibis-bill
Painted snipe
Pin-tailed snipe
Brown-headed gull

C.--LIST OF PLANTS COLLECTED BETWEEN JUNE AND SEPTEMBER, 1921, 12,000-20,400 FT.

Clematis orientalis, L.
Ranunculus pulchellus, C. A. Mey., var. sericeus, Hk. f. & T.
Ranunculus pulchellus, C. A. Mey.
Anemone obtusiloba, Don
Anemone polyanthes, Don
Anemone rivularis, Ham.
Geranium Grevilleanum, Wall.
Caltha scaposa, Hk. f. & T.
Delphinium Brunonianum, Royle
Aconitum gymnandrum, Max.
Aconitum orochryseum, Stapf, sp. nov.
Delphinium Pylzowii, Maxim.
Halenia elliptica, Don
Delphinium grandiflorum, L.
Hypecoum leptocarpum, Hk. f. & T.
Meconopsis horridula, Hk. f. & T.
Meconopsis grandis, Prain?
Meconopsis, sp.
Corydalis, sp.
Corydalis juncea, Wall.
Corydalis Moorcroftiana, Wall.
Arabis tibetica, Hk. f. & T.
Lepidium ruderale, L.
Arenaria ciliolata, Edgew.
Dilophia salsa, Hk. f. & T.
Cardamine macrophylla, Willd.
Arenaria Stracheyi, Edgew.
Silene Waltoni, F. N. Williams
Silene Moorcroftiana, Wall.
Arenaria musciformis, Wall.
Arenaria melandrioides, Edgew.
Polygonum islandicum, Hk. f.
Geranium collinum, A. DC.
Impatiens sulcatus, Wall.
Thermopsis barbata, Royle
Thermopsis lanceolata, R. Br.
Sophora Moorcroftiana, Benth.
Stracheya tibetica, Benth.
Astragalus strictus, Grah.
Oxytropis microphylla, DC
Gueldenstaedtia uniflora, Benth.
Desmodium nutans, Wall.
Potentilla coriandrifolia, Hk. f.
Potentilla multifida, L.
Potentilla sericea, L.
Potentilla microphylla, Don
Potentilla peduncularis, Don
Potentilla Griffithii, Hk. f.
Spiraea arcuata, Hk. f.
Saxifraga Lychnitis, Hk. f. & T.
Saxifraga nutans, Hk. f. & T.
Saxifraga aristulata, Hk. f.
Saxifraga near S. saginoides, Hk. f. & T.
Saxifraga flagellaris, Willd.
Saxifraga Hirculus, L.
Saxifraga Lychnitis, Hk. f. & T.
Saxifraga fimbriata, Wall.
Saxifraga pilifera, Hk. f. & T.
Saxifraga Caveana, W. W. Sm.
Saxifraga microphylla, Royle
Saxifraga pallida, Wall.
Saxifraga umbellulata, Hk. f. & T.
Parnassia ovata, Ledeb.
Parnassia pusilla, Wall.
Eutrema Prewalskii, Hk. f. & T.
Sedum fastigiatum, Hk. f. & T.
Sedum trifidum, Wall.
Sedum crenulatum, Hk. f. & T.
Sedum himalense, Don
Epilobium palustre, L.
Epilobium reticulatum, C. B. Cl.
Pleurospermum Hookeri, C. B. Cl.
Scabiosa Hookeri, C. B. Cl.
Valeriana Hardwickii, Wall.
Aster, sp.
Aster heterochaetus, C. B. Cl.
Allardia glabra, Dene.
Aster tibeticus, Hk. f.
Cremanthodium Decaisnei, C. B. Cl.
Aster diplostephioides, C. B. Cl.
Erigeron, sp.
Leontopodium fimbrilligerum, J. R. Drum.?
Leontopodium monocephalum, Edgew.
Leontopodium Stracheyi, C. B. Cl.
Anaphalis xylorhiza, Sch. Bip.
Anaphalis cuneifolia, Hook. f.
Tanacetum tibeticum, Hk. f. & T.
Senecio arnicoides, Wall. var. frigida, Hk. f.
Cremanthodium pinnatifidum, Benth.
Chrysanthemum Atkinsoni, C. B. Cl.?
Artemisia Moorcroftiana, Wall.
Sonchus sp.
Senecio glomerata, Decne.
Senecio (Sec. Ligularia) sp.
Senecio chrysanthemoides, DC.
Tanacetum khartense, Dunn, sp. nov.
Aster sp.
Lactuca macrantha, C. B. Cl.
Senecio sorocephala, Hemsl.
Saussurea gossypina, Wall.
Saussurea tridactyla, Sch. Bip.
Tanacetum gossypinum, Hk. f. & T.
Saussurea wernerioides, Sch. Bip.
Crepis glomerata, Hk. f.?
Saussurea graminifolia, Wall.
Senecio arnicoides, Wall.
Saussurea uniflora, Wall.
Morina polyphylla, Wall.
Saussurea glandulifera, Sch. Bip.
Lactuca Dubyaea, C. B. Cl.
Lactuca Lessertiana, C. B. Cl.
Cassiope fastigiata, D. Don
Daphne retusa, Hemsl.
Rhododendron lepidotum, Wall.
Rhododendron setosum, Don
Rhododendron near R. lepidotum, Wall.
Rhododendron campylocarpum, Hk. f.
Rhododendron cinnabarinum, Hk. f.
Rhododendron lanatum, Hk. f.
Rhododendron arboreum, Sm.
Rhododendron Thomsoni, Hk. f.
Cyananthus incanus, Hk. f. & T.
Glossocomia tenera, DC.
Cyananthus pedunculatus, C. B. Cl.
Campanula modesta, Hk. f. & T.
Campanula colorata, Wall.
Campanula aristata, Wall.
Androsace chamaejasme, Hort., var. coronata, Wall.
Androsace villosa, L. var.?
Androsace strigillosa, Franch.
Primula minutissima, Jacq.
Primula Buryana, Balf. f. sp. nov.
Primula Wollastonii, Balf. f. sp. nov.
Primula pusilla, Wall.
Primula sikkimensis, Hook, microform
Primula capitata, Hook.
Primula capitata, microform.
Primula uniflora, Klatt
Primula Dickieana, Watt.
Primula obliqua, W. W. Sm.
Primula indobella. Balf. f.
Primula minutissima, Jacq.
Primula glabra, Klatt
Primula Younghusbandii, sp. nov.
Primula tibetica, Watt.
Primula denticulata, Sm.
Primula sikkimensis, Hook.
Primula nivalis, Pallas, var. macrocarpa, Pax.
Gentiana am[oe]na, C. B. Cl.
Gentiana ornata, Wall.
Gentiana sp. Probably new but the material is too imperfect to decide
this.
Gentiana Elwesii, C. B. Cl.
Gentiana robusta, King
Gentiana micantiformis, Burkill
Gentiana nubigena, Edgew.
Gentiana tubiflora, Wall., var. longiflora, Turrill, var. nov.
Gentiana stellata, Turrill, sp. nov.
Gentiana tenella, Fries
Swertia cuneata, Wall.
Arenaria Stracheyi, Edgew.
Swertia Kingii, Hk. f.
Swertia Younghusbandii, Burkill
Swertia multicaulis, D. Don
Nardostachys grandiflora, DC.
Trigonotis rotundifolia, Benth.
Eritrichium densiflorum, Duthie
Microula sikkimensis, Hemsl.
Onosma Waddellii, Duthie
Onosma Hookeri, C. B. Cl.
Verbascum Thapsus, L.
Lancea tibetica, Hk. f. & T.
Lagotis crassifolia, Prain
Pedicularis trichoglossa, Hk. f.
Pedicularis Elwesii, Hk. f.
Pedicularis megalantha, Don, forma
Pedicularis megalantha, Don, var. pauciflora, Prain
Pedicularis Roylei, Maxim.
Pedicularis siphonantha, Don
Pedicularis cheilanthifolia, Schrank
Pedicularis tubiflora, Fischer
Pedicularis integrifolia, Hk. f.
Pedicularis globifera, Hk. f.
Incarvillea Younghusbandii, Sprague
Escholtzia eriostachya, Benth.
Nardostachys Iatamansi, DC.
Dracocephalum breviflorum, Turrill, sp. nov.
Dracocephalum tanguticum, Maxim.
Dracocephalum heterophyllum, Benth.
Dracocephalum speciosum, Benth.
Veronica lanuginosa, Benth.
Nepeta discolor, Benth.
Nepeta Thomsoni, Benth.
Atriplex rosea, L.
Polygonum vaccinifolium, Wall.
Polygonum viviparum, L.
Polygonum tortuosum, Don
Polygonum affine, Don
Polygonum amphibium, L.
Stellera chamaejasme, L.
Euphorbia Stracheyi, Boiss.
Orchis cylindrostachys, Kraenzl.
Liparis sp.
Goodyera fusca, Lindl.
Dendrobium alpestre, Royle
Pleione Hookeriana, S. Moore
Orchis Chusna, Don
Roscoea purpurea, Sm.
Iris nepalensis, Don
Iris goniocarpa, Baker
Iris tenuifolia, Pallas
Lloydia tibetica, Baker
Lloydia sp.
Fritillaria Hookeri, Baker
Fritillaria near F. Stracheyi, Hk. f.
Fritillaria cirrhosa, Don
Allium, sp.
Allium Wallichii, Kunth
Allium Govenianum, Wall.?
Allium cyaneum, Regel
Larix Griffithii, Hk. f.
Dryopteris Linneana, C. Chr.
Dryopteris Filix-mas, var. serrato-dentata, C. Chr.
Cryptogramma Brunoniana, Wall.
Calophaca crassicaulis, Benth.
Glaux maritima, L.
Androsace sessiliflora, Turrill, sp. nov.
Astragalus oreotrophes, W. W. Sm.
Thamnolia vermicularis, Schaer.
Stereocaulon alpinus, Laur.
Thelochistes flavicans, Norm.

NOTE.--The material of some of the numbers was insufficient for accurate determination; in a few cases the material necessary for comparison was on loan, and in the case of one or two genera, such as _Aster_, revision of the North Asian and Indian species will have to be undertaken before certain plants can be definitely named. The numbers in the list coming under these categories are named "---- sp."

ROYAL BOTANIC GARDENS, KEW.

_March 7, 1922._

INDEX

Abdul Jalil, photographic assistant, 59, 319
Abruzzi, Duke of the, 2, 3, 5, 155
Acchu, cook, 103, 133, 178
Acclimatisation to high altitudes, 277, 308, 341
Alpine Club, 1, 7, 14-19, 305
Altitude, effects on human frame, 5, 102, 104-5, 137-8, 154-5, 199, 204,
206-7, 253-4, 276, 307-8, 315, 341; on breathing, 200, 243-4, 277; on
tinned fish, 50
Ammo-chu, river, 39, 44, 291
Aneroids, 341
Ang Tenze, coolie, 113, 149-51, 166
Ari, bungalow, 33
Arun, river, 89, 104-5; gorges, 110, 125, 221, 297, 298; _see_ Bhong-chu
Avalanches, 231, 267-9, 308-9

Bailey, Major, 31, 314
Bamtso, lake, 49
Bell, Sir Charles, 16, 24, 166
Bhompo's, Buddhist sect, 39
Bhong-chu, river, 64-5, 69-71, 89-90, 93, 99, 100, 110, 159, 161, 295;
upper valley, 320, 322; _see_ Arun
Bhotias, 24
Bhotia ponies, 27
Bhotia Kosi, river, 338
Birds, 290-303, 312, 344-6
Brahma Putra, river, 61; _see_ Tsangpo
Bridges, 69, 93-4, 103, 115, 123, 159-60, 191
Bruce, General, 1, 3, 13, 17, 154, 312
Buchan, J., 19
Buddhism and Buddhists, 25, 67-8, 173; books, 41; red cap sect, 173;
yellow cap sect, 58, 173; regard for animal life, 59, 80, 166, 290;
_see_ Monasteries, prayer-wheels
Bullock, G. H., 19, 26, 52; _see_ Mallory
Bullocks, 48, etc.; _see_ Transport
Burrard, Sir S., 10-12
Carpo-ri, mountain, 227; ascended, 117, 229-35, 268
Chamlang, mountain, 140
Chandra Nursery, 32
Chang La (North Col), 142; first view of, 204, 207, 212, 220; way to,
233-40, 246-8, 256; camp on, 259-60; best route to, 273-4, 311-12,
334-5
Changtse, North peak of Everest, 142, 213, 215, 233-4
Chelmsford, Lord, 16
Chheten Wangdi, interpreter, 25, 39, 69, 91, 95, 112, 162, 179
Chinese in Tibet, 38-9, 71-2, 173; in Nepal, 71
Chitayn, coolie, 212
Choebuk, monastery and bridge, 82, 95, 190, 191, 312, 327
Choedzong, village, 86
Chog La, 106, 121, 129, 299-300
Choksum, village, 324
Chomiomo, mountain, 52, 54, 140, 166
Chomolhari, mountain, 45, 48, 60, 64, 167, 263
Chomoloenzo, mountain, 114, 116, 149-51
Chomolungma (Mount Everest or Makalu), 13, 24, 107, 224
Chomo-Uri (Mount Everest), 64
Chorabsang, mountain, 77-8; (= Cho Rapsang, 331)
Chortens, 40, 66, 174, 286, etc.
Cho Uyo, mountain, 73, 76, 78, 101, 207, 219, 330
Choeyling monastery, 194
Chulungphu, village, 89, 104
Chumbi valley, 25, 37-44, 170, 177-8; village, 38; fauna and flora, 291
Chushar Nango, village, 60-61, 131, 134, 295
Chuphar, village and monastery, 327
Chu-tronu, 123
Collie, J. N., 17-18
Compasses, 342
Conway, Sir M., 4, 5
Coolies, 23-5; behaviour, 47, 146, 156, 213, 216, 222-3, etc.; as
carriers, 92-4, 113, 122, 158, 284-6; _see_ Transport; in
mountaineering, 84, 188, 195, 203-6, 212, 230, 251 ff., 332
Crampons, 207-8, 272 Cups of tea, as measures of distance, 108
Curios, 67, 157
Curzon, Lord, 1, 19

Dak, village, 93
Dalai Lama, the, 16, 173
Darjeeling, 23-28, 179
Dasno, coolie, 234
Desiccation, 51
Dochen, bungalow, 49, 168
Dokcho, village, 321
Donka monastery, 40-42
Donkeys, 48, 64, 65, etc.; _See_ Transport
Dorje, cook, 50
Dorji Gompa, coolie, 202, 256
Doto nunnery, 51
Doya La, 88, 104, 336
Dram, village, 325
Drophung monastery, 323
Dug pass, 50
Dukpa, cook, 134, 188
Dunge pokri, island, 127
Dzakar (or Zakar) Chu, river, 93-5, 159, 297, 333

Eaton, J. E. C., 17
Equipment, 20, 315, 341
Everest, Mount, 1-2, 183; position, 9, 13; height, 10-12; names, 13, 64,
225; seen from Khamba Dzong, 54, 56, 183-4; from Shiling, 64, 186-88,
217, 230, 263; from Rongbuk Valley, 192, 263-4; from Kama Valley, 116,
226; local ignorance of, 107, 112, 116; structure, 192-4, 203, 215,
310; best season for ascent, 153, 248, 270; difficulties of, 154, 276,
308; plans for, in 1921, 250-52
-- -- Committee, 16 ff.
-- -- Expedition, origin of, 14-16; value of, 5; objects, 17-18; cost,
19; equipment, 20, 315, 341; results, 179-80, 310-12, 338, 341. _See_
Survey
Everest, Sir G., 13

Farrar, Captain J. P., 14, 17, 19, 315
Finch, Captain G., 19, 313, 315
"Finger," the, station, 335-6
Fourteen lakes, valley of the, 106, 121; fauna and flora, 299
Fowkes, Sergeant, 28
Freshfield, D. W., 1, 14-16, 18
Fuel, 80, 105, 171, 211, 237, 247, 273, 331

Gadompa, village and bridge, 160-61
Galinka, village and monastery, 40
Gandenchoefel monastery, 108, 131
Gauri Sankar, mountain, 288, 326, 331
Gautsa, bungalow, 44
Gelupka (= Yellow Cap) sect, 173
Geshe Rimpoche, Lama, 40
Ghoom, 29
Glaciers, ancient extent of, 128; characteristics, 194, 197, 218;
atmosphere, 200, 243, 270
Gnatong, village, 35-6, 178
Gosainthan, mountain, 64, 101, 284, 322-3
Graham, Dr., 30-31
_Graphic_, the, 19
Gujjar Singh, surveyor, 319, 323-7
Gurkhas in Tibet, 71, 95, 106
Guru Rimpoche, saint, 173
Gyachung Kang, mountain, 207, 219, 330
Gyalzen Kazi, interpreter, 25, 56, 133, 137, 163, 177-8, 188, 190, 202,
323
Gyangka-nangpa, house, 62, 184
Gyanka range of mountains, 184

Haldane, J. S., 341
Halung, village, 86-7, 103, 240; valley, 339
Hari Ram, explorer, 319, 324
Harvest rents, 161, 174
_Hatarana_, steamer, 24
Hayden, Sir H., 338
Hermits, 80, 83-4, 99
Heron, Dr. A. M., 20, 26; expeditions from Tingri, 74, 77-85, 98, 120,
325; first expedition to Kharta, 86-95, 162, 164, 179-80; in Upper
Kharta Valley, 253; returns by Kama Valley, 146-153, 337, and Teesta
Valley, 164, 337; note on geological results, 338-340
Himalaya, 7-8, 11, 304 ff.; H. and the Alps, 194
Hinks, A. R., 17, 20, 315; notes on scientific equipment, 341-2
Holdich, Sir T., 15
Hopaphema, landowner, 91-3, 104, 108, 111-12, 157-8
Hot springs. _See_ Kambu, Tsamda
Howard-Bury, Colonel C. K., 13, 15, 17, 20, 343; author of the general
narrative of the expedition, 23-180; expeditions from Tingri, 75-85;
first expedition to Kharta, 86-95; expeditions from Kharta, 106-111;
visits Kama Valley, 112 ff.; ascent of 19,500 ft. ridge, 116; of Kama
Changri, 136-7; of Lhakpa La, 140-145, 257 ff.
Huc, abbe, 293

India Office, 16
India, Government of, 16, 23
-- Survey of, 20, 26-7, 341
Interpreters, 25, 47; discretion of, 108
Isaacs, Mr., 39
"Island," the, 209, 213, 219

Jack, Colonel E. M., 17, 20, 315
Jannu, mountain, 117, 135, 140
Jelep La, 36, 37, 178, 290, 291 note
Jetsun-Nga-Wang-Choefel, saint, 109, 325
Jongpens, 174-5, 283, 324
Jonsong, mountain, 47, 140

Kabru, mountain, 26, 47, 168
Kala-tso, lake, 51
Kalimpong, village, 29-30
Kama Valley, 112-119, 146-52, 225-7, 311, 339; fauna and flora, 300-01
Kama Changri, mountain, 114, 136-7
Kama-chu, river, 122-4
Kambu hot springs, 40-43; valley, 291
Kanchenjunga, mountain, 9, 46, 117, 135, 140, 185
Kanchenjhow, mountain, 52, 54, 104, 166
Kang-chu, river, 325
Kangchen and -chung passes, 326
Kangdoshung glacier, 115-16
Kangshung glacier, 149-51
Karpo La, 147
Karro Pumri, mountain, 326
Kartse, mountain, 141
Kellas, A. M., 14, 18, 26, 341; illness and death, 46-49, 52-54, 164,
321
Khamba Dzong, fort and village, 13, 24, 53-57, 96, 164
Kharkung, village, 161
Kharta, 24, 90; first visit to, 88-93; headquarters of the expedition,
104-5, 110; survey of, 323, 327; valley formation, 339; fauna and
flora, 299, 301-03
Khartaphu, mountain, 330
Khe or Khetam, village, 50-51
Kheru, 51
Khombu pass, 76, 78-9, 312, 339
-- valley, 150-51
Kimonanga, village, 124
Korabak, rock, 124
Kuti (= Nyenyam), village, 324
Kyetrak, village and valley, 74-77, 327, 331
-- glacier, 70, 77-79, 312;
river, 79
Kyishong, village, 65, 102

Lachen, 56, 337
Lalbir Singh Thapa, surveyor, 319, 322, 327
Lamna La, 81, 327
Langkor, village and temple, 281, 323
Langma La, 112-13, 130, 224
Langra, rest-house, 37, 178
Lapche, village and monastery, 287, 325-6
Lapche Kang, mountain, 115, 284-5, 325
Lashar, village, 161
Lebong, races at, 27
Leeches, 34-5, 123-4, 126, 300, 337
Lhakpa La (Windy Gap), 138, 161, 273-4; first visits to, 240-249, 255-6;
camp on, 140-44, 257-8, 261
Lhasa, 16, 24, 173, 174; road to, 48-49
Lhonak peaks, 52
Lhotse, mountain (S. peak of Everest), 116, 213
Lingga, village, 57, 163-4
Lingmatang, plain, 40, 44, 291
Longstaff, Dr. T. G., 1, 5, 314
Lumeh, village, 93-4, 159
Lungchen La, 322
Lungdoe, village, 110, 125
Lunghi, 167

Macdonald, David and family, 31, 38, 177
Makalu, mountain, 104, 116, 118-19, 137, 186, 225-6, etc.; glacier, 151
Mallory, G. H. L., 19, 26, 313; reconnoitres N. approach to Everest, 74,
181-220; ascends Ri-Ring (23,050 ft.), 205-7, 264; moves to Kharta,
102-106; reconnoitres E. approach to Everest, 117, 221-249; back to
Kharta, 130; ascends Kama Changri, 136-7; final assault and ascent of
North Col, 131-145, 250-261; leaves Kharta, 153; views on weather
conditions, 262-72; on the route up Everest, 273-79
Mammals, 290-303, 312, 344, etc.
Mani Walls, 40, 174, etc.
Maps of Tibet, 62
"Marigolds, Field of," 119, 152
Matsang, village, 125
Meade, C. F., 5, 17, 19
Mendalongkyo, 129
Mende, village, 57
Menkhap-to and -me, villages, 322
Menlung pass, 327
"Metohkangmi," 141
Mila Respa, saint, 287
Monasteries, 99, 113, 173. _See_ Donka, Galinka, Ganden Choefel, Rongbuk,
Shekar Choete, etc.
Monsoon, 31, 48, 88, 91, 139, 216, 248, 262 ff. _See_ Rainfall
Morshead, Major H. T., 20, 25-27, 54, 65, 75, 96; trip to Nyenyam, 97,
108, 281-9, 323-5; at Kharta, 112; survey of Kharta Valley, 131-2,
135; first ascent of Lhakpa La, 130, 230-49; ascends Kama Changri,
136-7; second ascent of Lhakpa La, 140-144, 253-8; map by, 312, 338;
account of survey by, 319-28
Mountain sickness, 207, 258, 323. _See_ Altitude
Mountaineering, 2-4, 6-8, 305-6
Mules, lent by Government, 27-8; breakdown of, 33-4; Tibetan, 32-33, 48,
etc. _See_ Transport

Nangba (= Khombu), pass, 77, 331
Narsing, mountain, 26
Nathu La, 37
Nawang Lobsang, first Dalai Lama, 173
Nepal, 13
Nepalese coolies, 25, 122; invasion of Tibet, 71, 73; traders, 122, 127,
324; herdsmen, 126
Nezogu bridge, 100, 102
Ngawangyonten, official, 94
Nieves penitentes, 78
Nila pass, 61, 184
Noel, Major J. B. L., 14, 314
Nomads, 51, 171
North Col of Everest, 212, 215. _See_ Chang La
North cwm of Everest, 200, 203-4
North peak. _See_ Chang-tse
North-East Arete, 215, 227, 235, 250-51, 259, 274-6, 310
Norton, Major E. F., 313
Nuns and nunneries, 51, 80, 83, 166
Nyenyam, 73, 97, 108, 283-4, 297, 324
Nyima Tendu, coolie, 113, 149-51, 234

Oxygen for climbers, 154, 277, 307-8, 315-16, 341

Padamchen (= Sedongchen), 33
Padma Sambhava, saint, 173
Pashok, 337
Pawhunri mountains, 46, 52, 54, 166
Pedong, 31-2
Pekhu plain, 322
Peshoke, bungalow, 29
Pethang Ringmo, 116, 138
Pethangtse, mountain, 117, 147
Phari, fort and village, 24, 35, 45-8, 168; plain, 46, 292
Pharuk, district, 323, 327
Phema, village, 38
_Philadelphia Ledger_, the, 19
Photography, 68, 72-3, 91, 156, 216-17, 314, 315, 342-3, etc.; perils
of, 74-5; surveying by, 320, 329-30
Phuri, village, 322
Phuse La. _See_ Pusi pass
Pilgrims, 70, 99, 121
Plants, 290-302, 312, 346-50, etc.
Poe-chu, river, 284-5, 297-8, 323-4
Ponglet, view from, 188, 218, 263
Ponies, 27, 34, 48, 87, 101, etc. _See_ Transport
Poo, coolie, 75, 113, 156, 178
Popti La, 106, 126-7, 300
Postal arrangements, 96-7, 131, 135
Prayer wheels, 39-40, 53, 91, 98, 110, 174, 289
Primus stoves, 142-3, 154, 208, 315, 331
Pulahari, village, 281
Pulme, 94
Pumori, mountain, 209
Punagang monastery, 39
Pusi pass, 77, 79, 289 (= Phuse La, 327, 330)

Quiok, pass, 159

Rabkar-chu, river and glacier, 115
Ra-chu, river, 70, 330
Rainfall, 29, 37, 56, 99, 105, 262 ff.
Rawling, Major, 13-14
Reading, Lord, 23
Rebu, village, 87, 103; valley, 339
Rhenock, 32
Ri-Ring, mountain, ascended, 205-6, 270, 311
Richengong, village, 38, 291
Ronaldshay, Lord, 23, 179
Rongbuk, glacier, 84; central and W. branches explored, 194-220;
E. branch, 142, 216-18, 238-40, 247-9, 273-4, 334-6; stream from,
199, 218
-- monastery, 83
-- valley, 82, 191, 339
Rongkong, village, 63
Rongli, bungalow, 32, 178
Rongme, village, 63
Rongshar, valley, 77, 288-9, 298, 325-6
Ruddamlamtso, lake, 121, 128
Rugby, Tibetan boys at, 172
Ryder, Colonel C. H. D., 13, 319

Sakeding, village, 121-22, 127-8
Samchung, pass, 106, 121, 129
Sand dunes, 58, 63-4, 295
Sandakphu, 12, 13
Sanglu, coolie, 254, 256-7
Sedongchen, village, 33-4
Senchal, 29
Serpo-La, 164, 337
Shao La, 112, 118, 153
Sharto, village, 75, 330
Shassi (= New Yatung), 38
Shatog, village, 162
Shekar-Choete, monastery, 67-8, 94
Shekar Dzong, fort and village, 45, 66-7, 96, 295
Sherpa Bhotias, coolies, 24, 188, 224, 252
Shidag, nunnery, 51
Shigatse, 51, 55, 174
Shiling, 161, 188. _See_ Everest, Mount
Shung-chu, river, 79
Shurim Tso, lake, 114
Sikkim, survey of, 27, 320-21, 327; journey through, 29-36; flora of,
_ibid._
Siniolchum, mountain, 46
Sipri mountains, 99
Skis, 158
Snow, 248, 254, 264-8; temperature of, 270; powdery, 171, 231, 243,
256; powdery snow and wind, 139, 142, 144, 159, 167-8, 259-60, 271,
etc.
Snow-blindness, 103, 167, 171
Snowfall, 37, 171
Snow line, 56
Snow men, the abominable, 141
Snow shoes, 137, 211-14, 232, 243, 254, 265, 270
Somers Cocks, E. L., 16
Somervell, H. T., 312, 313
Strutt, Colonel E. L., 313
Sun's rays, 270, 308
Survey work of expedition, 179, 312. _See_ Heron, Morshead, Wheeler
Sutso plain, 99, 321-22

Takda, cantonment, 29
Tamba Sanye, saint, 281, 323
Tameness of animals, 59-60, 76-77, 80, 83, 88, 94, 131
Tang La, 48, 167, 323
Tang-puen-sum, plain, 48
Tangsham, 114, 117, 152
Targyeling, village, 324
Tasang, village, 79, 289, 327
Tashi Dzom, 95
Tashilumpo monastery, 51, 173
Tashishong, 325
Tatsang, nunnery, 52, 165-6
Teesta Valley, 27, 29-30, 164, 337
Temperature, 269-70, 308, 342
Tents, airlessness of, 143, 154, 258
Thermometers, 342
Thrashing, 164
Thung-La, 282; fauna and flora, 297
Tibet, 13, 36, 170 ff.; geology of, 338; Government, 173-4; helps the
expedition, 16, 24, 45, etc.
Tibetans, 170 ff.
Tibetan beer, 57, 125, 156; bread, 125; burial, 74, 133; climate, 49,
176; coinage and currency, 47, 59, 123; coolies, 223-4; houses, 38,
89, 321; marriage, 74; meals, 48, 59, 62, 67, 101, 108, etc.; mules,
177-9; ornaments, 73, 101, 107; ponies, 27, 55, 101, 176;
superstitions, 66, 72, 109, 122, 141, 174, 282; tea, 41, etc.
_Times_, newspaper, 19, 156
Tingri, 70-75, 95-101; plain of, 70; its fauna and flora, 96, 295-7;
origin of name, 282, 323
Tinki, fort and village, 58, 162; birds of, 294; pass, 60, 162, 321;
flowers of, 295
Trangso Chumbab, rest-house, 65
Transport, 27-8, 34-5, 45, 48, 60, 65, 69, 86, 92, 158-9, 165, 173, 284.
_See_ Coolies, Mules, Yaks
Trintang, village, 326
Tropde, village, 326
Tsakor, village, 70
Tsamda, hot springs, 99, 321
Tsampa, 172-3, 222, 337
Tsang, province, 319
Tsangpo, river, 319-20
Tsering, five peaks, 326
Tsogo, 65, 159
Tsomotretung, lake, 61
Tsong Kapa, monk, 173
Tulsi Dass, gardener, 32
Tulung, village, 323
Tuna, rest-house, 48
Turubaz Khan, surveyor, 319, 321

Wakefield, Dr. A. W., 313
Waugh, Sir A., 10, 12, 13
Weather. _See_ Monsoon, Rainfall, Wind
West cwm of Everest, 208-9, 212, 214
Wheeler, Major, E. O., 20, 26, 52, 164, 252, 320; expedition to Kyetrak,
74, 77-81, 98, 330-33; to Rongbuk Valley, 102, 333-36; discovers
E. Rongbuk glacier, 217, 240, 247-8, 334; arrives at Kharta, 249; to
Lhakpa La, 140-44, 257; to Chang La, 144-5, 258-61; returns by Kama
Valley, 146-153, 337, and Teesta Valley, 164, 337; map by, 312, 328,
338; account of photographic survey by, 329-337
Wind, 50, 72, 75, 147-8, 171, 178, 265, 308, 342. _See_ Snow
Wollaston, A. F. R., 20, 26; returns with Raeburn to Sikkim, 56; rejoins
at Tingri, 74, 75, 96; trip to Nyenyam, 97, 108, 323-25; described by
him, 281-89; at Kharta, 249; to Lhakpa La, 140 ff., 257-8; returns by
Kama Valley, 146-153, 165, 342; natural history notes by, 290-303,
344-350; collections, 312

Yaks, 61, 81, 161, 171, 286, 294, etc.
Yaru, river, 56-7, 61-3, 101-2
Yatung, 38-9, 177
Younghusband, Sir F., 1, 15-17, 19, 20
Zachar-chu. _See_ Dzakar-chu

Zambu, village, 81

* * * * *

_Printed in Great Britain by_ Butler & Tanner, _Frome and London_

* * * * *

PRELIMINARY MAP to illustrate the route of the MOUNT EVEREST EXPEDITION 1921.

Reduced from the map on the scale 1/253440

by Major Morshead and assistants of the Survey of India, accompanying the expedition: the neighbourhood of the Mountain from Map II.

Scale 1/750,000 or 1 Inch = 11.84 Stat. Miles.]

* * * * *

Preliminary Map of MOUNT EVEREST

constructed at the R. G. S. from photographs and sketches made by the EXPEDITION of 1921]

* * * * *

THE GEOLOGY of the MOUNT EVEREST REGION from the surveys of Dr. A. M. HERON

Geological Survey of India 1921.

The topography from Map I.

Scale 1/750,000 or 1 Inch = 11.84 Stat. Miles.

* * * * *

The table below lists all corrections applied to the original text.

p ix: Kama Valley. Kangchenjunga -> Kanchenjunga
p 12: Ladnia | 1849 | 108 | 29,998 -> 28,998
p 13: call it Chomo-lungmo -> Chomolungma
p 24: Despatched -> Dispatched
p 26: two, Gujar -> Gujjar
p 44: of the Ammochu -> Ammo-chu
P 54: KAMPA -> KHAMBA
p 64: known as Chomo-lungma-> Chomolungma
p 101: and raisins as a -> an
p 107: right up to Chomo-lungma -> Chomolungma
p 109: saint called Jetsun-Nga-Wang-Chhoefel -> Choefel
p 133: the great lammergeier -> Laemmergeier
p 138: VALLEY. Kangchenjunga -> Kanchenjunga
p 146: to Kharta via-> via
p 149: cliffs of Chomolonzo -> Chomoloenzo
p 149: formed by Chomolonzo -> Chomoloenzo
p 163: a couple of Gargany -> Garganey
p 188: might be required we -> required. We
p 236: toiled over the neve -> neve
p 265: snow-shoes on neve -> neve
p 271: before the next moonsoon -> monsoon
p 275: offering a detour -> detour
p 290: Rongbuk Valley the burrhel -> burhel
p 291: Dippers, wag-tails -> wagtails
p 294: packs of widgeon -> wigeon
p 302: of a wolf. Burrhel -> Burhel
p 302: Dippers (_Cinclus cashmiriensis_) -> cashmirensis_)
p 302: daily by lammergeier -> Laemmergeier
p 302: seen was a lammergeier -> Laemmergeier
p 303: Birds, _Ibis._ -> _Ibid._
p 309: the broken debris -> debris
p 311: its satellite Chomo-Loenzo -> Chomoloenzo
p 322: hares, some ram-chakor -> ramchakor
p 322: a young, week-old barhal -> burhel
p 323: with the interpreter Gyaldzan -> Gyalzen
p 325: by Nepalese subjects (Sharpas) -> (Sherpas)
p 326: summit of Gaurisankar -> Gauri-Sankar
p 327: Bhong Chu below Lungdo -> Lungdoe
p 330: plain to the village of Shaerto -> Sharto
p 333: I took a 20,000-foot tation -> station
p 337: Darjeeling via Lachen -> L[=a]chen
p 337: on either side of the Kharta -> Kh[=a]rta
p 337: at all of Kangchenjunga -> Kanchenjunga
p 339: Lhamo limestone in Sikhim -> Sikkim
p 339: overlooking the Khumbu -> Khombu
p 345: Calandrella acutirostris tibitana -> tibetana
p 346: Greater sand plover. _Aaegialitis -> _Aegialitis
p 346: Lammergeier -> Laemmergeier
p 351: Bhompos -> Bhompo's
p 351: _see_ Tsan-po -> Tsangpo
p 351: Carpo-Ri -> Carpo-ri
p 351: Chang La (North Col) -> (North Col),
p 351: first view of, 204; -> 204,
p 351: Chodzong -> Choedzong
p 351: Choyling -> Choeyling
p 352: 65, etc. -> etc.;
p 352: results -> results,
p 353: to Kharta, 86-95; -> 86-95,
p 353: Jetsun-Nga-Wang-Chhoefel -> Choefel
p 354: Lungdo -> Lungdoe
p 354: Monasteries, 99, 113, 173 -> 173.
p 354: Ganden Chhofel -> Choefel
p 354: _See_ rainfall -> Rainfall
p 354: _See_ altitude -> Altitude
p 355: Samchang -> Samchung
p 355: flora of, _ibid_ -> _ibid._
p 356: Tsang-po -> Tsangpo