Chapter XIV: Preface (14)

She goes on to caution nurses, by saying,—“Take care not to spill into your patient’s saucer; in other words, take care that the outside bottom rim of his cup shall be quite dry and clean. If, every time he lifts his cup to his lips, he has to carry the saucer with it, or else to drop the liquid upon and to soil his sheet, or bedgown, or pillow, or, if he is sitting up, his dress, you have no idea what a difference this minute want of care on your part makes to his comfort, and even to his willingness for food.”

INVALID’S CUTLET.

_Ingredients._—1 nice cutlet from a loin or neck of mutton; 2 teacupfuls of water; 1 very small stick of celery; pepper and salt to taste. _Mode._—Have the cutlet cut from a very nice loin or neck of mutton, take off all the fat, put it into a stewpan with the other ingredients; stew very gently indeed for nearly 2 hours, and skim off every particle of fat that may rise to the surface from time to time. The celery should be out into thin slices before it is added to the meat, and care must be taken not to put in too much of this, or the dish will not be good. If the water is allowed to boil fast, the cutlet will be hard. _Time._—2 hours very gentle stewing. _Average cost_, 6_d._ _Sufficient_ for one person. _Seasonable._—Whenever celery may be had.

INVALID’S JELLY.

_Ingredients._—12 shanks of mutton, 3 quarts of water, a bunch of sweet herbs, pepper and salt to taste, 3 blades of mace, 1 onion, 1 lb. of lean beef, a crust of bread toasted brown. _Mode._—Soak the shanks in plenty of water for some hours, and scrub them well; put them, with the beef and other ingredients, into a saucepan with the water, and let them simmer very gently for 5 hours. Strain the broth, and, when cold, take off all the fat. It may be eaten either warmed up or cold as a jelly. _Time._—5 hours. _Average cost_, 1_s._ _Sufficient_ to make from 1½ to 2 pints of jelly. _Seasonable_ at any time.

INVALIDS, Lemonade for.

_Ingredients._—½ lemon, lump sugar to taste, 1 pint of boiling water. _Mode._—Pare off the rind of the lemon thinly; cut the lemon into 2 or 3 thick slices, and remove as much as possible of the white outside pith, and all the pips. Put the slices of lemon, the peel, and lump sugar into a jug; pour over the boiling water; cover it closely, and in 2 hours it will be fit to drink. It should either be strained or poured off from the sediment. _Time._—2 hours. _Average cost_, 2_d._ _Sufficient_ to make 1 pint of lemonade. _Seasonable_ at any time.

JAM ROLY-POLY PUDDING.

_Ingredients._—¾ lb. of suet-crust, ¾ lb. of any kind of jam. _Mode._—Make a nice light suet-crust, and roll it out to the thickness of about ½ inch. Spread the jam equally over it, leaving a small margin of paste without any, where the pudding joins. Roll it up, fasten the ends securely, and tie it in a floured cloth; put the pudding into boiling water, and boil for 2 hours. Mincemeat or marmalade may be substituted for the jam, and makes excellent puddings. _Time._—2 hours. _Average cost_, 9_d._ _Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable._—Suitable for winter puddings, when fresh fruit is not obtainable.

JANUARY—BILLS OF FARE.

Dinner for 18 persons.

_First Course._

Mock-Turtle Soup,
removed by
Cod’s Head and Shoulders.

Stewed Eels. Vase of Red Mullet.
Flowers.

Clear Ox-tail Soup,
removed by
Fried Filleted Soles.

_Entrées._

Riz de Veau aux
Tomates.

Ragoût of Vase of Cotelettes de Porc
Lobster. Flowers. à la Robert.

Poulet à la Marengo.

_Second Course._

Roast Turkey.

Pigeon Pie.

Boiled Turkey and Vase of Boiled Ham.
Celery Sauce. Flowers.

Tongue, garnished.

Saddle of Mutton.

_Third Course._

Charlotte Pheasants, Apricot-Jam
à la Parisienne. removed by Tartlets.
Plum-Pudding.

Jelly.

Cream. Vase of Cream.
flowers.

Jelly.

Mince Pies. Snipes, Maids
removed by of Honour.
Pommes à la Condé.

Dinner for 12 persons.

_First Course._—Carrot soup à la Crécy; ox-tail soup; turbot and lobster sauce; fried smelts, with Dutch sauce. _Entrées._ Mutton cutlets, with Soubise sauce; sweetbreads; oyster patties; fillets of rabbits. _Second Course._—Roast Turkey; stewed rump of beef à la jardinière; boiled ham, garnished with Brussels sprouts; boiled chickens and celery sauce. _Third course._—Roast hare; teal; eggs à la neige; vol-au-vent of preserved fruit; 1 jelly; 1 cream; potatoes à la maître d’hôtel; grilled mushrooms; dessert and ices.

Dinner for 10 persons.

_First Course._—Soup à la Reine; whitings au gratin; crimped cod and oyster sauce. _Entrées._—Tendrons de veau; curried fowl and boiled rice. _Second Course._—Turkey, stuffed with chestnuts, and chestnut sauce; boiled leg of mutton, English fashion, with caper sauce and mashed turnips. _Third course._—Woodcocks or partridges; widgeon; Charlotte à la vanille; cabinet pudding; orange jelly; blancmange; artichoke bottoms; macaroni, with Parmesan cheese; dessert and ices.

Dinner for 8 persons.

_First course._—Mulligatawny soup; brill and shrimp sauce; fried whitings. _Entrées._—Fricasseed chicken; pork cutlets, with tomato sauce. _Second course._—Haunch of mutton; boiled turkey and celery sauce; boiled tongue, garnished with Brussels sprouts. _Third Course._—Roast pheasants; meringues à la crême; compôte of apples; orange jelly, cheesecakes; soufflé of rice; dessert and ices.

Dinners for 6 persons.

_First Course._—Julienne soup; soles à la Normandie. _Entrées._—Sweetbreads, with sauce piquante; mutton cutlets, with mashed potatoes. _Second Course._—Haunch of venison; boiled fowls and bacon, garnished with Brussels sprouts. _Third Course._—Plum pudding; custards in glasses; apple tart; fondue à la Brillat Savarin; dessert.

* * * * *

_First Course._—Vermicelli soup; fried slices of codfish and anchovy sauce; John Dory. _Entrées._—Stewed rump-steak à la jardinière; rissoles; oyster patties. _Second Course._—Leg of mutton; curried rabbit and boiled rice. _Third Course._—Partridges; apple fritters; tartlets of greengage jam; orange jelly; plum-pudding; dessert.

* * * * *

_First Course._—Pea-soup; baked haddock; soles à la crême. _Entrées._—Mutton cutlets and tomato sauce; fricasseed rabbit. _Second Course._—Roast pork and apple sauce; breast of veal, rolled and stuffed; vegetables. _Third Course._—Jugged hare; whipped cream; blancmange; mince pies; cabinet pudding.

* * * * *

_First Course._—Palestine soup; fried smelts; stewed eels. _Entrées._—Ragoût of lobster; broiled mushrooms; vol-au-vent of chicken. _Second Course._—Sirloin of beef; boiled fowls and celery sauce; tongue, garnished with Brussels sprouts. _Third Course._—Wild ducks; Charlotte aux pommes; cheesecakes; transparent jelly, inlaid with brandy cherries; blancmange; Nesselrode pudding.

JANUARY, Plain Family Dinners for.

_Sunday._—1. Boiled turbot and oyster sauce, potatoes. 2. Roast leg or griskin of pork, apple sauce, brocoli, potatoes. 3. Cabinet pudding, and damson tart made with preserved damsons.

_Monday._—1. The remains of turbot warmed in oyster sauce, potatoes. 2. Cold pork, stewed steak. 3. Open jam tart, which should have been made with the pieces of paste left from the damson tart; baked arrowroot pudding.

_Tuesday._—1. Boiled neck of mutton, carrots, mashed turnips, suet dumplings, and caper sauce: the broth should be served first, and a little rice or pearl barley should be boiled in it along with the meat. 2. Rolled jam pudding.

_Wednesday._—1. Roast rolled ribs of beef, greens, potatoes, and horseradish sauce. 2. Bread-and-butter pudding, cheesecakes.

_Thursday._—1. Vegetable soup (the bones from the ribs of beef should be boiled down with this soup), cold beef, mashed potatoes. 2. Pheasants, gravy, bread sauce. 3. Macaroni.

_Friday._—1. Fried whitings or soles. 2. Boiled rabbit and onion sauce, minced beef, potatoes. 3. Currant dumplings.

_Saturday._—1. Rump-steak pudding or pie, greens, and potatoes. 2. Baked custard pudding and stewed apples.

* * * * *

_Sunday._—1. Codfish and oyster sauce, potatoes. 2. Joint of roast mutton, either leg, haunch, or saddle; brocoli and potatoes, red-currant jelly. 3. Apple tart and custards, cheese.

_Monday._—1. The remains of codfish picked from the bone, and warmed through in the oyster sauce; if there is no sauce left, order a few oysters and make a little fresh; and do not let the fish boil, or it will be watery. 2. Curried rabbit, with boiled rice served separately, cold mutton, mashed potatoes. 3. Somersetshire dumplings with wine sauce.

_Tuesday._—1. Boiled fowls, parsley-and-butter; bacon garnished with Brussels sprouts; minced or hashed mutton. 2. Baroness pudding.

_Wednesday._—1. The remains of the fowls cut up into joints and fricasseed; joint of roast pork and apple sauce, and, if liked, sage-and-onion, served on a dish by itself; turnips and potatoes. 2. Lemon pudding, either baked or boiled.

_Thursday._—1. Cold pork and jugged hare, red-currant jelly, mashed potatoes. 2. Apple pudding.

_Friday._—1. Boiled beef, either the aitchbone or the silver side of the round; carrots, turnips, suet dumplings, and potatoes: if there is a marrow-bone, serve the marrow on toast at the same time. 2. Rice snowballs.

_Saturday._—1. Pea-soup made from liquor in which beef was boiled; cold beef, mashed potatoes. 2. Baked batter fruit pudding.

JANUARY, Things in Season.

_Fish._—Barbel, brill, carp, cod, crabs, crayfish, dace, eels, flounders, haddocks, herrings, lampreys, lobsters, mussels, oysters, perch, pike, plaice, prawns, shrimps, skate, smelts, soles, sprats, sturgeon, tench, thornback, turbot, whitings.

_Meat._—Beef, house lamb, mutton, pork, veal, venison.

_Poultry._—Capons, fowls, tame pigeons, pullets, rabbits, turkeys.

_Game._—Grouse, hares, partridges, pheasants, snipe, wild-fowl, woodcock.

_Vegetables._—Beetroot, brocoli, cabbages, carrots, celery, chervil, cresses, cucumbers (forced), endive, lettuces, parsnips, potatoes, savoys, spinach, turnips, various herbs.

_Fruit._—Apples, grapes, medlars, nuts, oranges, pears, walnuts, crystallized preserves (foreign), dried fruits, such as almonds and raisins; French and Spanish plums; prunes, figs, dates.

JAUNEMANGE.

_Ingredients._—1 oz. of isinglass, 1 pint of water, ½ pint of white wine, the rind and juice of 1 large lemon, sugar to taste, the yolks of 6 eggs. _Mode._—Put the isinglass, water, and lemon-rind into a saucepan, and boil gently until the former is dissolved; then add the strained lemon-juice, the wine, and sufficient white sugar to sweeten the whole nicely. Boil for 2 or 3 minutes, strain the mixture into a jug, and add the yolks of the eggs, which should be well beaten; place the jug in a saucepan of boiling water; keep stirring the mixture _one way_ until it thickens, _but do not allow it to boil_; then take it off the fire, and keep stirring until nearly cold. Pour it into a mould, omitting the sediment at the bottom of the jug, and let it remain until quite firm. _Time._—¼ hour to boil the isinglass and water; about 10 minutes to stir the mixture in the jug. _Average cost_, with the best isinglass, 2_s._ 9_d._ _Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. _Seasonable_ at any time.

JELLIES

Are not the nourishing food they were at one time considered to be, and many eminent physicians are of opinion that they are less digestible than the flesh, or muscular part of animals; still, when acidulated with lemon-juice and flavoured with wine, they are very suitable for some convalescents. Vegetable jelly is a distinct principle, existing in fruits, which possesses the property of gelatinizing when boiled and cooled; but it is a principle entirely different from the gelatine of animal bodies, although the name of jelly, common to both, sometimes leads to an erroneous idea on that subject. Animal jelly, or gelatine, is glue, whereas vegetable jelly is rather analogous to gum. Liebig places gelatine very low indeed in the scale of usefulness. He says, “Gelatine, which by itself is tasteless, and when eaten, excites nausea, possesses no nutritive value; that, even when accompanied by the savoury constituents of flesh, it is not capable of supporting the vital process, and when added to the usual diet as a substitute for plastic matter, does not increase, but on the contrary, diminishes the nutritive value of the food, which it renders insufficient in quantity and inferior in quality.” It is this substance which is most frequently employed in the manufacture of the jellies supplied by the confectioner; but those prepared at home from calves’ feet do possess some nutrition, and are the only sort that should be given to invalids. Isinglass is the purest variety of gelatine, and is prepared from the sounds or swimming-bladders of certain fish, chiefly the sturgeon. From its whiteness it is mostly used for making blancmange and similar dishes.

JELLIES, Bottled, How to Mould.

Uncork the bottle; place it in a saucepan of hot water until the jelly is reduced to a liquid state; taste it, to ascertain whether it is sufficiently flavoured, and if not, add a little wine. Pour the jelly into moulds which have been soaked in water; let it set, and turn it out by placing the mould in hot water for a minute; then wipe the outside, put a dish on the top, and turn it over quickly. The jelly should then slip easily away from the mould, and be quite firm. It may be garnished as taste dictates.

JELLY, Isinglass, or Gelatine.

(Substitutes for Calf’s Feet.)

_Ingredients._—3 oz. of isinglass or gelatine, 2 quarts of water. _Mode._—Put the isinglass or gelatine into a saucepan with the above proportion of cold water; bring it quickly to boil, and let it boil very fast, until the liquor is reduced one-half. Carefully remove the scum as it rises, then strain it through a jelly-bag, and it will be ready for use. If not required very clear, it may be merely strained through a fine sieve, instead of being run through a bag. Rather more than ½ oz. of isinglass is about the proper quantity to use for a quart of strong calf’s-feet stock, and rather more than 2 oz. for the same quantity of fruit juice. As isinglass varies so much in quality and strength, it is difficult to give the exact proportions. The larger the mould, the stiffer should be the jelly; and where there is no ice, more isinglass must be used than if the mixture were frozen. This forms a stock for all kinds of jellies, which may be flavoured in many ways. _Time._—1½ hour. _Sufficient_, with wine, syrup, fruit, &c., to fill two moderate-sized moulds. _Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note._—The above, when boiled, should be perfectly clear, and may be mixed warm with wine, flavourings, fruits, &c., and then run through the bag.

JELLY-BAG, How to make a.

The very stout flannel called double-mill, used for ironing-blankets, is the best material for a jelly-bag: those of home manufacture are the only ones to be relied on for thoroughly clearing the jelly. Care should be taken that the seam of the bag be stitched twice, to secure it against unequal filtration. The most convenient mode of using the bag is to tie it upon a hoop the exact size of the outside of its mouth; and, to do this, strings should be sewn round it at equal distances. The jelly-bag may, of course, be made any size; but one of twelve or fourteen inches deep, and seven or eight across the mouth, will be sufficient for ordinary use. The form of a jelly-bag is the fool’s-cap.

JELLY Moulded with fresh Fruit, or Macedoine de Fruits.

_Ingredients._—Rather more than 1½ pint of jelly, a few nice strawberries, or red or white currants, or raspberries, or any fresh fruit that may be in season. _Mode._—Have ready the above proportion of jelly, which must be very clear and rather sweet, the raw fruit requiring an additional quantity of sugar. Select ripe, nice-looking fruit; pick off the stalks, unless currants are used, when they are laid in the jelly as they come from the tree. Begin by putting a little jelly at the bottom of the mould, which must harden; then arrange the fruit round the sides of the mould, recollecting that _it will be reversed when turned out_; then pour in some more jelly to make the fruit adhere, and, when that layer is set, put another row of fruit and jelly until the mould is full. If convenient, put it in ice until required for table, then wring a cloth in boiling water, wrap it round the mould for a minute, and turn the jelly carefully out. Peaches, apricots, plums, apples, &c., are better for being boiled in a little clear syrup before they are laid in the jelly; strawberries, raspberries, grapes, cherries, and currants are put in raw. In winter, when fresh fruits are not obtainable, a very pretty jelly may be made with preserved fruits or brandy cherries: these, in a bright and clear jelly, have a very pretty effect; of course, unless the jelly be _very clear_, the beauty of the dish will be spoiled. It may be garnished with the same fruit as is laid in the jelly; for instance, an open jelly with strawberries might have, piled in the centre, a few of the same fruit prettily arranged, or a little whipped cream might be substituted for the fruit. _Time._—One layer of jelly should remain 2 hours in a very cool place, before another layer is added. _Average cost_, 2_s._ 6_d._ _Sufficient_, with fruit, to fill a quart mould. _Seasonable_, with fresh fruit, from June to October; with dried, at any time.

JELLY, ORANGE, Moulded with slices of Orange.

_Ingredients._—1½ pint of orange jelly, 4 oranges, ½ pint of clarified syrup, _Mode._—Boil ½ lb. of loaf sugar with ½ pint of water until there is no scum left (which must be carefully removed as fast as it rises), and carefully peel the oranges; divide them into thin slices, without breaking the thin skin, and put these pieces of orange into the syrup, where let them remain for about 5 minutes; then take them out, and use the syrup for the jelly. When the oranges are well drained, and the jelly is nearly cold, pour a little of the latter into the bottom of the mould; then lay in a few pieces of orange; over these pour a little jelly, and when this is set, place another layer of oranges, proceeding in this manner until the mould is full. Put it in ice, or in a cool place, and, before turning it out, wrap a cloth round the mould for a minute or two, which has been wrung out in boiling water. _Time._—5 minutes to simmer the oranges, _Average cost_, 3_s._ 6_d._ _Sufficient_, with the slices of orange, to fill a quart mould. _Seasonable_ from November to May.

JELLY of Two Colours.

_Ingredients._—1½ pint of calf’s-feet jelly, a few drops of prepared cochineal. _Mode._—Make 1½ pint of calf’s-feet jelly, or, if wished more economical, of clarified syrup and gelatine, flavouring it in any way that may be preferred. Colour one-half of the jelly with a few drops of prepared cochineal, and the other half leave as pale as possible. Have ready a mould well wetted in every part; pour in a small quantity of the red jelly, and let this set; when quite firm, pour on it the same quantity of the pale jelly, and let this set; then proceed in this manner until the mould is full, always taking care to let one jelly set before the other is poured in, or the colours would run one into the other. When turned out, the jelly should have a striped appearance. For variety, half the mould may be filled at once with one of the jellies, and, when firm, filled up with the other: this, also, has a very pretty effect, and is more expeditiously prepared than when the jelly is poured in small quantities into the mould. Blancmange and red jelly, or blancmange and raspberry cream, moulded in the above manner, look very well. The layers of blancmange and jelly should be about an inch in depth, and each layer should be perfectly hardened before another is added. Half a mould of blancmange and half a mould of jelly are frequently served in the same manner. A few pretty dishes may be made, in this way, of jellies or blancmanges left from the preceding day, by melting them separately in a jug placed in a saucepan of boiling water, and then moulding them by the foregoing directions. _Time._—¾ hour to make the jelly. _Average cost_, with calf’s-feet jelly, 2_s._; with gelatine and syrup, more economical. _Sufficient_ to fill 1½-pint mould. _Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note._—In making the jelly, use for flavouring a very pale sherry, or the colour will be too dark to contrast nicely with the red jelly.

JELLY, Open, with whipped Cream (a very pretty dish).

_Ingredients._—1½ pint of jelly, ½ pint of cream, 1 glass of sherry, sugar to taste. _Mode._—Make the above proportion of calf’s-feet or isinglass jelly, colouring and flavouring it in any way that may be preferred; soak a mould, open in the centre, for about ½ hour in cold water; fill it with the jelly, and let it remain in a cool place until perfectly set; then turn it out on a dish; fill the centre with whipped cream, flavoured with sherry and sweetened with pounded sugar; pile this cream high in the centre, and serve. The jelly should be made of rather a dark colour, to contrast nicely with the cream. _Time._—¾ hour. _Average cost_, 3_s._ 6_d._ _Sufficient_ to fill 1½-pint mould. _Seasonable_ at any time.

JELLY, Savoury, for Meat Pies.

_Ingredients._—3 lbs. of shin of beef, 1 calf’s-foot, 3 lbs. of knuckle of veal, poultry trimmings (if for game pies, any game trimmings), 2 onions stuck with cloves, 2 carrots, 4 shalots, a bunch of savoury herbs, 2 bay-leaves; when liked, 2 blades of mace and a little spice; 2 slices of lean ham; rather more than 2 quarts of water. _Mode._—Cut up the meat and put it into a stewpan with all the ingredients except the water; set it over a slow fire to draw down, and, when the gravy ceases to flow from the meat, pour in the water. Let it boil up, then carefully take away all scum from the top. Cover the stewpan closely, and let the stock simmer very gently for 4 hours: if rapidly boiled, the jelly will not be clear. When done, strain it through a fine sieve or flannel bag; and when cold, the jelly should be quite transparent. If this is not the case, clarify it with the whites of eggs. _Time._—4 hours. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 5_s._

JELLY, to make the Stock for, and to Clarify it.

_Ingredients._—2 calf’s feet, 6 pints of water. _Mode._—The stock for jellies should always be made the day before it is required for use, as the liquor has time to cool, and the fat can be so much more easily and effectually removed when thoroughly set. Procure 2 nice calf’s feet; scald them, to take off the hair; slit them in two, remove the fat from between the claws, and wash the feet well in warm water; put them into a stewpan, with the above proportion of cold water, bring it gradually to boil and remove every particle of scum as it rises. When it is well skimmed, boil it very gently for 6 or 7 hours, or until the liquor is reduced rather more than half; then strain it through a sieve into a basin, and put it in a cool place to set. As the liquor is strained, measure it, to ascertain the proportion for the jelly, allowing something for the sediment and fat at the top. To clarify it, carefully remove all the fat from the top, pour over a little warm water, to wash away any that may remain, and wipe the jelly with a clean cloth; remove the jelly from the sediment, put it into a saucepan, and, supposing the quantity to be a quart, add to it 6 oz. of loaf sugar, the shells and well-whisked whites of 5 eggs, and stir these ingredients together cold; set the saucepan on the fire, but _do not stir the jelly after it begins to warm._ Let it boil about 10 minutes after it rises to a head, then throw in a teacupful of cold water; let it boil 5 minutes longer, then take the saucepan off, cover it closely, and let it remain ½ hour near the fire. Dip the jelly-bag into hot water, wring it out quite dry, and fasten it on to a stand or the back of a chair, which must be placed near the fire, to prevent the jelly from setting before it has run through the bag. Place a basin underneath to receive the jelly; then pour it into the bag, and should it not be clear the first time, run it through the bag again. This stock is the foundation of all _really good_ jellies, which may be varied in innumerable ways, by colouring and flavouring with liqueurs, and by moulding it with fresh and preserved fruits. To insure the jelly being firm when turned out, ½ oz. of isinglass clarified might be added to the above proportion of stock. Substitutes for calf’s feet are now frequently used in making jellies, which lessen the expense and trouble in preparing this favourite dish, isinglass and gelatine being two of the principal materials employed; but although they may _look_ as nicely as jellies made from good stock, they are never so delicate, having very often an unpleasant flavour, somewhat resembling glue, particularly when made with gelatine. _Time._—About 6 hours to boil the feet for the stock; to clarify it,—¼ hour to boil, ½ hour to stand in the saucepan covered. _Average cost._—Calf’s feet may be purchased for 6_d._ each when veal is in full season, but more expensive when it is scarce. _Sufficient._—2 calf’s feet should make 1 quart of stock. _Seasonable_ from March to October, but may be had all the year.

JOHN DORY.

_Ingredients._—-¼ lb. of salt to each gallon of water. _Mode._—This fish, which is esteemed by most people a great delicacy, is dressed in the same way as a turbot, which it resembles in firmness, but not in richness. Cleanse it thoroughly and cut off the fins; lay it in a fish-kettle, cover with cold water, and add salt in the above proportion. Bring it gradually to a boil, and simmer gently for ¼ hour, or rather longer, should the fish be very large. Serve on a hot napkin, and garnish with cut lemon and parsley. Lobster, anchovy, or shrimp sauce, and plain melted butter, should be sent to table with it. _Time._—After the water boils, ¼ to ½ hour, according to size. _Average cost_, 3_s._ to 5_s._ _Seasonable_ all the year, but best from September to January.

_Note._—Small John Dory are very good baked.

JUNE—BILLS OF FARE.

Dinner for 18 persons.

_First Course._

Asparagus Soup,
removed by
Crimped Salmon.

Fillets of Gurnets. Vase of Soles aux fines herbes.
Flowers.

Vermicelli Soup,
removed by
Whitebait.

_Entrées._

Lamb Cutlets and
Peas.

Lobster Patties. Vase of Tendrons de Veau
Flowers. à la Jardinière.

Larded Sweetbreads.

_Second Course._

Saddle of Lamb.

Tongue.

Roast Spring Vase of Boiled Capon.
Chickens. Flowers.

Ham.

Boiled Calf’s Head.

_Third Course._

Leveret,
Prawns. removed by Tartlets.
Iced Pudding.

Vol-au-Vent of Wine Jelly. Custards,
Strawberries and Cream. in glasses.
Vase of
Flowers.
Cheesecake. Plovers’ Eggs.
Blancmange.

Goslings,
removed by
Fondues, in cases.

Dessert and Ices.

Dinner for 12 persons.

_First Course._—Green-pea soup; rice soup; salmon and lobster sauce; trout à la Genévése; whitebait. _Entrées._—Lamb cutlets and cucumbers; fricasseed chicken; stewed veal and peas; lobster rissoles. _Second Course._—Roast quarter of lamb and spinach; filet de bœuf à la Jardinière; boiled fowls; braised shoulder of lamb; tongue; vegetables. _Third Course._—Goslings; ducklings; Nesselrode pudding; Charlotte à la Parisienne; gooseberry tartlets; strawberry cream; raspberry-and-currant tart; custards; dessert and ices.

Dinner for 10 persons.

_First Course._—Julienne soup; salmon trout and parsley-and-butter; red mullet. _Entrées._—Stewed breast of veal and peas; mutton cutlets à la Maintenon. _Second Course._—Roast fillet of veal; boiled leg of lamb, garnished with young carrots; boiled bacon-cheek; vegetables. _Third Course._—Roast ducks; leveret; gooseberry tart; strawberry cream; strawberry tartlets; meringues; cabinet pudding; iced pudding; dessert and ices.

Dinner for 8 persons.

_First Course._—Vermicelli soup; trout à la Genévése; salmon cutlets. _Entrées._—Lamb cutlets and peas; fricasseed chicken. _Second Course._—Roast ribs of beef; half calf’s head, tongue, and brains; boiled ham; vegetables. _Third Course._—Roast ducks; compôte of gooseberries; strawberry jelly; pastry; iced pudding; cauliflower with cream sauce; dessert and ices.

Dinner for 6 persons.

_First Course._—Spring soup; boiled salmon and lobster sauce. _Entrées._—Veal cutlets and endive; ragoût of duck and green peas. _Second Course._—Roast loin of veal; boiled leg of lamb and white sauce; tongue, garnished; vegetables. _Third Course._—Strawberry cream; gooseberry tartlets; almond pudding; lobster salad; dessert.

* * * * *

_First Course._—Calf’s head soup; mackerel à la maître d’hôtel; whitebait. _Entrées._—Chicken cutlets; curried lobster. _Second Course._—Fore-quarter of lamb and salad; stewed beef à la Jardinière; vegetables. _Third Course._—Goslings; green-currant tart; custards, in glasses; strawberry blancmange; soufflé of rice; dessert.

* * * * *

_First Course._—Green-pea soup; baked soles aux fines herbes; stewed trout. _Entrées._—Calf’s liver and bacon; rissoles. _Second Course._—Roast saddle of lamb and salad; calf’s head à la tortue; vegetables. _Third Course._—Roast ducks; vol-au-vent of strawberries and cream; strawberry tartlets; lemon blancmange; baked gooseberry pudding; dessert.

* * * * *

_First Course._—Spinach soup; soles à la crême; red mullet. _Entrées._—Roast fillet of veal; braised ham and spinach. _Second Course._—Boiled fowls and white sauce; vegetables. _Third Course._—Leveret; strawberry jelly; Swiss cream; cheesecakes; iced pudding; dessert.

JUNE, Plain Family Dinners for.

_Sunday._—1. Salmon trout and parsley-and-butter, new potatoes. 2. Roast fillet of veal, boiled bacon-cheek and spinach, vegetables. 3. Gooseberry tart, custard.

_Monday._—1. Light gravy soup. 2. Small meat pie, minced veal, garnished with rolled bacon, spinach, and potatoes. 3. Raspberry-and-currant tart.

_Tuesday._—1. Baked mackerel, potatoes. 2. Boiled leg of lamb, garnished with young carrots. 3. Lemon pudding.

_Wednesday._—1. Vegetable soup. 2. Calf’s liver and bacon, peas, hashed lamb from remains of cold joint. 3. Baked gooseberry pudding.

_Thursday._—1. Roast ribs of beef, Yorkshire pudding, peas, potatoes. 2. Stewed rhubarb and boiled rice.

_Friday._—1. Cold beef and salad, lamb cutlets and peas. 2. Boiled gooseberry pudding and baked custard pudding.

_Saturday._—1. Rump-steak pudding, broiled beef-bones and cucumber, vegetables. 2. Bread pudding.

* * * * *

_Sunday._—1. Roast fore-quarter of lamb, mint sauce, peas, and new potatoes. 2. Gooseberry pudding, strawberry tartlets. Fondue.

_Monday._—1. Cold lamb and salad, stewed neck of veal and peas, young carrots, and new potatoes. 2. Almond pudding.

_Tuesday._—1. Green-pea soup. 2. Roast ducks stuffed, gravy, peas, and new potatoes. 3. Baked ratafia pudding.

_Wednesday._—1. Roast leg of mutton, summer cabbage, potatoes. 2. Gooseberry and rice pudding.

_Thursday._—1. Fried soles, melted butter, potatoes. 2. Sweetbreads, hashed mutton, vegetables. 3. Bread-and-butter pudding.

_Friday._—1. Asparagus soup. 2. Boiled beef, young carrots, and new potatoes, suet dumplings. 3. College puddings.

_Saturday._—1. Cold boiled beef and salad, lamb cutlets, and green peas. 2. Boiled gooseberry pudding and plain cream.

JUNE, Things in Season.

_Fish._—Carp, crayfish, herrings, lobsters, mackerel, mullet, pike, prawns, salmon, soles, tench, trout, turbot.

_Meat._—Beef, lamb, mutton, veal, buck venison.

_Poultry._—Chickens, ducklings, fowls, green geese, leverets, plovers, pullets, rabbits, turkey poults, wheatears.

_Vegetables._—Artichokes, asparagus, beans, cabbages, carrots, cucumbers, lettuces, onions, parsnips, peas, potatoes, radishes, small salads, sea-kale, spinach,—various herbs.

_Fruit._—Apricots, cherries, currants, gooseberries, melons, nectarines, peaches, pears, pineapples, raspberries, rhubarb, strawberries.

JULY—BILLS OF FARE.

Dinner for 18 persons.

_First Course._

Green-Pea Soup,
removed by
Salmon and dressed
Cucumber.

Whitebait. Vase of Stewed Trout.
Flowers.

Soup à la Reine,
removed by
Mackerel à la Maître
d’Hôtel.

_Entrées._

Lamb Cutlets and
Peas.

Lobster Curry Vase of Scollops of
en Casserole. Flowers. Chickens.

Chicken Patties.

_Second Course._

Haunch of Venison.

Pigeon Pie.

Boiled Capons. Vase of Spring Chickens.
Flowers.

Braised Ham.

Saddle of Lamb.

_Third Course._

Roast Ducks,
removed by
Vanilla Soufflé.

Prawns. Raspberry Cream. Custards.

Vase of
Flowers.
Cherry Tart. Raspberry-and-Currant
Tart.
Strawberry Cream.

Creams. Green Goose, Tartlets.
removed by
Iced Pudding.

Dessert and Ices.

Dinner for 12 persons.

_First Course._—Soup à la Jardinière; chicken soup; crimped salmon and parsley-and-butter; trout aux fines herbes, in cases. _Entrées._—Tendrons de veau and peas; lamb cutlets and cucumbers. _Second Course._—Loin of veal à la Béchamel; roast fore-quarter of lamb; salad; braised ham, garnished with broad beans; vegetables. _Third Course._—Roast ducks; turkey poult; stewed peas à la Française; lobster salad; cherry tart; raspberry-and-currant tart; custards, in glasses; lemon creams; Nesselrode pudding; marrow pudding. Dessert and ices.

Dinner for 8 persons.

_First Course._—Green-pea soup; salmon and lobster sauce; crimped perch and Dutch sauce. _Entrées._—Stewed veal and peas; lamb cutlets and cucumbers. _Second Course._—Haunch of venison; boiled fowls à la Béchamel; braised ham; vegetables. _Third Course._—Roast ducks; peas à la Française; lobster salad; strawberry cream; blancmange; cherry tart; cheesecakes; iced pudding. Dessert and ices.

Dinner for 6 persons.

_First Course._—Soup à la Jardinière; salmon trout and parsley-and-butter; fillets of mackerel à la maître d’hôtel. _Entrées._—Lobster cutlets; beef palates, à la Italienne. _Second Course._—Roast lamb; boiled capon and white sauce; boiled tongue, garnished with small vegetable marrows; bacon and beans. _Third Course._—Goslings; whipped strawberry cream; raspberry-and-currant tart; meringues; cherry tartlets; iced pudding. Dessert and ices.

* * * * *

_First Course._—Julienne soup; crimped salmon and caper sauce; whitebait. _Entrées._—Croquettes à la Reine; curried lobster. _Second Course._—Roast lamb; rump of beef à la Jardinière. _Third Course._—Larded turkey poult; raspberry cream; cherry tart; custards, in glasses; Gâteaux à la Genévése; Nesselrode pudding. Dessert.

JULY, Plain Family Dinners for.

_Sunday._—1. Salmon trout and parsley-and-butter. 2. Roast fillet of veal, boiled bacon-cheek, peas, potatoes. 3. Raspberry-and-currant tart, baked custard pudding.

_Monday._—1. Green-pea soup. 2. Roast fowls garnished with water-cresses; gravy, bread sauce; cold veal and salad. 3. Cherry tart.

_Tuesday._—1. John dory and lobster sauce. 2. Curried fowl with remains of cold fowls, dish of rice, veal rolls with remains of cold fillet. 3. Strawberry cream.

_Wednesday._—1. Roast leg of mutton, vegetable marrow and potatoes, melted butter. 2. Black-currant pudding.

_Thursday._—1. Fried soles, anchovy sauce. 2. Mutton cutlets and tomato sauce, hashed mutton, peas, potatoes, 3. Lemon dumplings.

_Friday._—1. Boiled brisket of beef, carrots, turnips, suet dumplings, peas, potatoes. 2. Baked semolina pudding.

_Saturday._—1. Cold beef and salad, lamb cutlets and peas. 2. Rolled jam pudding.

_Sunday._—1. Julienne soup. 2. Roast lamb, half calf’s head, tongue and brains, boiled ham, peas and potatoes. 3. Cherry tart, custards.

_Monday._—1. Hashed calf’s head, cold lamb and salad. 2. Vegetable marrow and white sauce, instead of pudding.

_Tuesday._—1. Stewed veal, with peas, young carrots, and potatoes. Small meat pie. 2. Raspberry-and-currant pudding.

_Wednesday._—1. Roast ducks stuffed, gravy, peas, and potatoes; the remains of stewed veal rechauffé. 2. Macaroni served as a sweet pudding.

_Thursday._—1. Slices of salmon and caper sauce. 2. Boiled knuckle of veal, parsley-and-butter, vegetable marrow and potatoes. 3. Black-currant pudding.

_Friday._—1. Roast shoulder of mutton, onion sauce, peas and potatoes. 2. Cherry tart, baked custard pudding.

_Saturday._—1. Minced mutton, rump-steak-and-kidney pudding. 2. Baked lemon pudding.

JULY, Things in Season.

_Fish._—Carp, crayfish, dory, flounders, haddocks, herrings, lobsters, mackerel, mullet, pike, plaice, prawns, salmon, shrimps, soles, sturgeon, tench, thornback.

_Meat._—Beef, lamb, mutton, veal, buck venison.

_Poultry._—Chickens, ducklings, fowls, green geese, leverets, plovers, pullets, rabbits, turkey poults, wheatears, wild ducks (called flappers).

_Vegetables._—Artichokes, asparagus, beans, cabbages, carrots, cauliflowers, celery, cresses, endive, lettuces, mushrooms, onions, peas, radishes, small salading, sea-kale, sprouts, turnips, vegetable marrow,—various herbs.

_Fruit._—Apricots, cherries, currants, figs, gooseberries, melons, nectarines, pears, pineapples, plums, raspberries, strawberries, walnuts in high season, for pickling.

JULIENNE, Soup à la.

_Ingredients._—½ pint of carrots, ½ pint of turnips, ¼ pint of onions, 2 or 3 leeks, ½ head of celery, 1 lettuce, a little sorrel and chervil, if liked, 2 oz. of butter, 2 quarts of stock. _Mode._—Cut the vegetables into strips of about 1¼ inch long, and be particular they are all the same size, or some will be hard whilst the others will be done to a pulp. Cut the lettuce, sorrel, and chervil into larger pieces; fry the carrots in the butter, and pour the stock boiling to them. When this is done, add all the other vegetables and herbs, and stew gently for at least an hour. Skim off all the fat, pour the soup over thin slices of bread, cut round about the size of a shilling, and serve. _Time._—1½ hour. _Average cost._—1_s._ 3_d._ per quart. _Seasonable_ all the year. _Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

_Note._—In summer, green peas, asparagus-tops, French beans, &c., can be added. When the vegetables are very strong, instead of frying them in butter at first, they should be blanched, and afterwards simmered in the stock.

KALE BROSE (a Scotch Recipe).

_Ingredients._—Half an ox-head or cow-heel, a teacupful of toasted oatmeal, salt to taste, 2 handfuls of greens, 3 quarts of water. _Mode._—Make a broth of the ox-head or cow-heel, and boil it till oil floats on the top of the liquor, then boil the greens, shred, in it. Put the oatmeal, with a little salt, into a basin, and mix with it quickly a teacupful of the fat broth: it should not run into one doughy mass, but form knots. Stir it into the whole, give one boil, and serve very hot. _Time._—4 hours. _Average cost_, 8_d._ per quart. _Seasonable_ all the year, but more suitable in winter. _Sufficient_ for 10 persons.

KEGEREE.

_Ingredients._—Any cold fish, 1 teacupful of boiled rice, 1 oz. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of mustard, 2 soft-boiled eggs, salt and cayenne to taste. _Mode._—Pick the fish carefully from the bones, mix with the other ingredients, and serve very hot. The quantities may be varied according to the amount of fish used. _Time._—¼ hour after the rice is boiled. _Average cost_, 5_d._ exclusive of the fish.

KIDNEYS, Broiled (a Breakfast or Supper Dish).

_Ingredients._—Sheep kidneys, pepper and salt to taste. _Mode._—Ascertain that the kidneys are fresh, and cut them open, very evenly, lengthwise, down to the root, for should one half be thicker than the other, one would be underdone whilst the other would be dried, but do not separate them; skin them, and pass a skewer under the white part of each half to keep them flat, and broil over a nice clear fire, placing the inside downwards; turn them when done enough on one side, and cook them on the other. Remove the skewers, place the kidneys on a very hot dish, season with pepper and salt, and put a tiny piece of butter in the middle of each; serve very hot and quickly, and send very hot plates to table. _Time._—6 to 8 minutes. _Average cost_, 1½_d._ each. _Sufficient._—Allow 1 for each person. _Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note._—A prettier dish than the above may be made by serving the kidneys each on a piece of buttered toast cut in any fanciful shape. In this case a little lemon-juice will be found an improvement.

KIDNEYS, Fried.

_Ingredients._—Kidneys, butter, pepper, and salt to taste. _Mode._—Cut the kidneys open without quite dividing them, remove the skin, and put a small piece of butter in the frying-pan. When the butter is melted, lay in the kidneys the flat side downwards, and fry them for 7 or 8 minutes, turning them when they are half done. Serve on a piece of dry toast, season with pepper and salt, and put a small piece of butter in each kidney; pour the gravy from the pan over them, and serve very hot. _Time._—7 or 8 minutes. _Average cost_, 1½_d._ each. _Sufficient._—Allow 1 kidney to each person. _Seasonable_ at any time.

KIDNEY OMELET (a favourite French Dish).

_Ingredients._—6 eggs, 1 saltspoonful of salt, ½ saltspoonful of pepper, 2 sheep’s kidneys, or 2 tablespoonfuls of minced veal kidney, 5 oz. of butter. _Mode._—Skin the kidneys, cut them into small dice, and toss them in a frying-pan, in 1 oz. of butter, over the fire for 2 or 3 minutes. Mix the ingredients for the omelet, and when the eggs are well whisked, stir in the pieces of kidney. Make the butter hot in the frying-pan, and when it bubbles, pour in the omelet, and fry it over a gentle fire from 4 to 6 minutes. When the eggs are set, fold the edges over, so that the omelet assumes an oval form, and be careful that it is not too much done: to brown the top, hold the pan before the fire for a minute or two, or use a salamander until the desired colour is obtained, but never turn an omelet in the pan. Slip it carefully on to a _very hot_ dish, or, what is a much safer method, put a dish on the omelet, and turn the pan quickly over. It should be served the instant it comes from the fire. _Time._—4 to 6 minutes. _Average cost_, 1_s._ _Sufficient_ for 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

KIDNEYS, Stewed.

_Ingredients._—About 8 kidneys, a large dessertspoonful of chopped herbs, 2 oz. butter, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, a little gravy, juice of half a lemon, a teaspoonful of Harvey sauce and mushroom ketchup, cayenne, and salt to taste. _Mode._—Strew the herbs, with cayenne and salt, over the kidneys, melt the butter in the frying-pan, put in the kidneys, and brown them nicely all round; when nearly done, stir in the flour, and shake them well; now add the gravy and sauce, and stew them for a few minutes, then turn them out into a dish garnished with fried sippets. _Time._—10 or 12 minutes. _Seasonable_ at any time.

LAMB.

The most delicious sorts of lamb are those of the South-Down breed, known by their black feet; and of these, those which have been exclusively suckled on the milk of the parent ewe, are considered the finest. Next to these in estimation are those fed on the milk of several dams; and last of all, though the fattest, the grass-fed lamb: this, however, implies an age much greater than either of the others.

LAMB, in the early part of the season, however reared, is in London, and indeed generally, sold in quarters, divided with eleven ribs to the fore-quarter; but, as the season advances, these are subdivided into two, and the hind-quarter in the same manner; the first consisting of the shoulder, and the neck and breast; the latter, of the leg and the loin.—As lamb, from the juicy nature of its flesh, is especially liable to spoil in unfavourable weather, it should be frequently wiped, so as to remove any moisture that may form on it.

IN THE PURCHASING OF LAMB FOR THE TABLE, there are certain signs by which the experienced judgment is able to form an accurate opinion whether the animal has been lately slaughtered, and whether the joints possess that condition of fibre indicative of good and wholesome meat. The first of these doubts may be solved satisfactorily by the bright and dilated appearance of the eye; the quality of the fore-quarter can always be guaranteed by the blue or healthy ruddiness of the jugular, or vein of the neck; while the rigidity of the knuckle, and the firm, compact feel of the kidney, will answer in an equally positive manner for the integrity of the hind-quarter.

MODE OF CUTTING UP A SIDE OF LAMB IN LONDON.—1. Ribs; 2. Breast; 3. Shoulder; 4. Loin; 5. Leg; 1, 2, 3. Fore Quarter.

LAMB, Breast of, and Green Peas.

_Ingredients._—1 breast of lamb, a few slices of bacon, ½ pint of stock, 1 lemon, 1 onion, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, green-peas. _Mode._—Remove the skin from a breast of lamb, put it into a saucepan of boiling water, and let it simmer for 5 minutes. Take it out and lay it in cold water. Line the bottom of a stewpan with a few thin slices of bacon; lay the lamb on these; peel the lemon, cut it into slices, and put these on the meat, to keep it white and make it tender; cover with 1 or 2 more slices of bacon; add the stock, onion, and herbs, and set it on a slow fire to simmer very gently until tender. Have ready some green peas, put these on a dish, and place the lamb on the top of them. The appearance of this dish may be much improved by glazing the lamb, and spinach may be substituted for the peas when variety is desired. _Time._—1½ hour. _Average cost_, 10_d._ per lb. _Sufficient_ for 3 persons. _Seasonable._—Grass lamb, from Easter to Michaelmas.

LAMB, Stewed Breast of.

_Ingredients._—1 breast of lamb, pepper and salt to taste, sufficient stock to cover it, 1 glass of sherry, thickening of butter and flour. _Mode._—Skin the lamb, cut it into pieces, and season them with pepper and salt; lay these in a stewpan, pour in sufficient stock or gravy to cover them, and stew very gently until tender, which will be in about 1½ hour. Just before serving, thicken the sauce with a little butter and flour; add the sherry, give one boil, and pour it over the meat. Green peas, or stewed mushrooms, may be strewed over the meat, and will be found a very great improvement. _Time._—1½ hour. _Average cost_, 10_d._ per lb. _Sufficient_ for 3 persons. _Seasonable._—Grass lamb, from Easter to Michaelmas.

LAMB, TO CARVE.—Leg, loin, saddle, shoulder, are carved as mutton.

LAMB, Fore-quarter of, to Carve.

We always think that a good and practised carver delights in the manipulation of this joint, for there is a little field for his judgment and dexterity which does not always occur. The separation of the shoulder from the breast is the first point to be attended to; this is done by passing the knife round the dotted line, as shown by the figures 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, so as to cut through the skin, and then, by raising with a little force the shoulder, into which the fork should be firmly fixed, it will come away with just a little more exercise of the knife. In dividing the shoulder and breast, the carver should take care not to cut away too much of the meat from the latter, as that would rather spoil its appearance when the shoulder is removed. The breast and shoulder being separated, it is usual to lay a small piece of butter, and sprinkle a little cayenne, lemon-juice, and salt between them; and when this is melted and incorporated with the meat and gravy, the shoulder may, as more convenient, be removed into another dish. The next operation is to separate the ribs from the brisket, by cutting through the meat on the line 5 to 6. The joint is then ready to be served to the guests; the ribs being carved in the direction of the lines from 9 to 10, and the brisket from 7 to 8. The carver should ask those at the table what parts they prefer—ribs, brisket, or a piece of the shoulder.

LAMB CUTLETS.

_Ingredients._—Loin of lamb, pepper and salt to taste. _Mode._—Trim off the flap from a fine loin of lamb, and cut it into cutlets about ¾ inch in thickness. Have ready a bright clear fire; lay the cutlets on a gridiron, and broil them of a nice pale brown, turning them when required. Season them with pepper and salt; serve very hot and quickly, and garnish with crisped parsley, or place them on mashed potatoes. Asparagus, spinach, or peas are the favourite accompaniments to lamb chops. _Time._—About 8 or 10 minutes. _Average cost_, 1_s._ per lb. _Sufficient._—Allow 2 cutlets to each person. _Seasonable_ from Easter to Michaelmas.

LAMB, Cutlets and Spinach (an Entrée).

_Ingredients._—8 cutlets, egg and bread-crumbs, salt and pepper to taste, a little clarified butter. _Mode._—Cut the cutlets from a neck of lamb, and shape them by cutting off the thick part of the chine-bone. Trim off most of the fat and all the skin, and scrape the top part of the bones quite clean. Brush the cutlets over with egg, sprinkle them with bread-crumbs, and season with pepper and salt. Now dip them into clarified butter, sprinkle over a few more bread-crumbs, and fry them over a sharp fire, turning them when required. Lay them before the fire to drain, and arrange them on a dish with spinach in the centre, which should be previously well boiled, drained, chopped, and seasoned. _Time._—About 7 or 8 minutes. _Average cost_, 10_d._ per lb. _Sufficient_ for 4 persons. _Seasonable_ from Easter to Michaelmas.

_Note._—Peas, asparagus, or French beans, may be substituted for the spinach; or lamb cutlets may be served with stewed cucumbers, Soubise sauce, &c., &c.

LAMB, Roast Fore-quarter of.

_Ingredients._—Lamb, a little salt. _Mode._—To obtain the flavour of lamb in perfection, it should not be long kept; time to cool is all that it requires; and though the meat may be somewhat thready, the juices and flavour will be infinitely superior to that of lamb that has been killed 2 or 3 days. Make up the fire in good time, that it may be clear and brisk when the joint is put down. Place it at a sufficient distance to prevent the fat from burning, and baste it constantly till the moment of serving. Lamb should be very _thoroughly_ done without being dried up, and not the slightest appearance of red gravy should be visible, as in roast mutton: this rule is applicable to all young white meats. Serve with a little gravy made in the dripping-pan, the same as for other roasts, and send to table with it a tureen of mint sauce, and a fresh salad. A cut lemon, a small piece of fresh butter, and a little cayenne, should also be placed on the table, so that when the carver separates the shoulder from the ribs, they may be ready for his use; if, however, he should not be very expert, we would recommend that the cook should divide these joints nicely before coming to table. _Time._—Fore-quarter of lamb weighing 10 lbs., 1¾ to 2 hours. _Average cost_, 10_d._ to 1_s._ per lb. _Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. _Seasonable._—Grass lamb, from Easter to Michaelmas.

LAMB’S FRY.

_Ingredients._—1 lb. of lamb’s fry, 3 pints of water, egg and bread-crumbs, 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley, salt and pepper to taste. _Mode._—Boil the fry for ¼ hour in the above proportion of water, take it out and dry it in a cloth; grate some bread down finely, mix with it a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and a high seasoning of pepper and salt. Brush the fry lightly over with the yolk of an egg, sprinkle over the bread-crumbs, and fry for 5 minutes. Serve very hot on a napkin in a dish, and garnish with plenty of crisped parsley. _Time._—¼ hour to simmer the fry, 5 minutes to fry it. _Average cost_, 10_d._ per lb. _Sufficient_ for 2 or 3 persons. _Seasonable_ from Easter to Michaelmas.

LAMB, Hashed, and Broiled Blade-Bone.

[COLD MEAT COOKERY.] _Ingredients._—The remains of a cold shoulder of lamb, pepper and salt to taste, 2 oz. of butter, about ½ pint of stock or gravy, 1 tablespoonful of shalot vinegar, 3 or 4 pickled gherkins. _Mode._—Take the blade-bone from the shoulder, and cut the meat into collops as neatly as possible. Season the bone with pepper and salt, pour a little oiled butter over it, and place it in the oven to warm through. Put the stock into a stewpan, add the ketchup and shalot vinegar, and lay in the pieces of lamb. Let these heat gradually through, but do not allow them to boil. Take the blade-bone out of the oven, and place it on a gridiron over a sharp fire to brown. Slice the gherkins, put them into the hash, and dish it with the blade-bone in the centre. It may be garnished with croûtons or sippets of toasted bread. _Time._—Altogether ½ hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 4_d._ _Seasonable._—Houselamb, from Christmas to March; grass lamb, from Easter to Michaelmas.

LAMB, Boiled Leg of, à la Béchamel.

_Ingredients._—Leg of lamb, Béchamel sauce. _Mode._—Do not choose a very large joint, but one weighing about 5 lbs. Have ready a saucepan of boiling water, into which plunge the lamb, and when it boils up again, draw it to the side of the fire, and let the water cool a little. Then stew very gently for about 1¼ hour, reckoning from the time that the water begins to simmer. Make some Béchamel, dish the lamb, pour the sauce over it, and garnish with tufts of boiled cauliflower or carrots. When liked, melted butter may be substituted for the Béchamel: this is a more simple method, but not nearly so nice. Send to table with it some of the sauce in a tureen, and boiled cauliflowers or spinach, with whichever vegetable the dish is garnished. _Time._—1¼ hour after the water simmers. _Average cost_, 10_d._ to 1_s._ per lb. _Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ from Easter to Michaelmas.

LAMB, Roast Leg of.

_Ingredients._—Lamb, a little salt. _Mode._—Place the joint at a good distance from the fire at first, and baste well the whole time it is cooking. When nearly done, draw it nearer the fire to acquire a nice brown colour. Sprinkle a little fine salt over the meat, empty the dripping-pan of its contents; pour in a little boiling water, and strain this over the meat. Serve with mint sauce and a fresh salad, and for vegetables send peas, spinach, or cauliflowers to table with it. _Time._—A leg of lamb weighing 5 lbs., 1½ hour. _Average cost_, 10_d._ to 1_s._ a pound. _Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ from Easter to Michaelmas.

LAMB, Braised Loin of.