Chapter II: (More Economical.) (9)

_Note._—This vegetable may be also boiled, sliced, and fried in batter of a nice brown. When crisp and a good colour, they should be served with fried parsley in the centre of the dish, and a little fine salt sprinkled over the salsify.

SANDWICHES, Victoria.

_Ingredients._—4 eggs; their weight in pounded sugar, butter, and flour; ¼ saltspoonful of salt, a layer of any kind of jam or marmalade. _Mode._—Beat the butter to a cream; dredge in the flour and pounded sugar; stir these ingredients well together, and add the eggs, which should be previously thoroughly whisked. When the mixture has been well beaten for about 10 minutes, butter a Yorkshire-pudding tin, pour in the batter, and bake it in a moderate oven for 20 minutes. Let it cool, spread one half of the cake with a layer of nice preserve, place over it the other half of the cake, press the pieces slightly together, and then cut it into long finger-pieces; pile them in cross-bars, on a glass dish, and serve. _Time._—20 minutes. _Average cost_, 1_s._ 3_d._ _Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

SAUCES, General Remarks upon.

The preparation and appearance of sauces and gravies are of the highest consequence, and in nothing does the talent and taste of the cook more display itself. Their special adaptability to the various viands they are to accompany cannot be too much studied, in order that they may harmonize and blend with them as perfectly, so to speak, as does a pianoforte accompaniment with the voice of the singer.

The general basis of most gravies and some sauces is the same stock as that used for soups; and, by the employment of these, with, perhaps, an additional slice of ham, a little spice, a few herbs, and a slight flavouring from some cold sauce or ketchup, very nice gravies may be made for a very small expenditure. A milt (either of a bullock or sheep), the shank-end of mutton that has already been dressed, and the necks and feet of poultry may all be advantageously used for gravy, where much is not required. It may, then, be established as a rule, that there exists no necessity for good gravies to be expensive, and that there is no occasion, as many would have the world believe, to buy ever so many pounds of fresh meat, in order to furnish an ever so little quantity of gravy.

Brown sauces, generally speaking, should scarcely be so thick as white sauces; and it is well to bear in mind, that all those which are intended to mask the various dishes of poultry or meat, should be of a sufficient consistency to slightly adhere to the fowls or joints over which they are poured. For browning and thickening sauces, &c., browned flour may be properly employed.

Sauces should possess a decided character; and whether sharp or sweet, savoury or plain, they should carry out their names in a distinct manner, although, of course, not so much flavoured as to make them too piquant on the one hand, or too mawkish on the other.

Gravies and sauces should be sent to table very hot; and there is all the more necessity for the cook to see to this point, as, from their being usually served in small quantities, they are more liable to cool quickly than if they were in a larger body. Those sauces, of which cream or eggs form a component part, should be well stirred, as soon as those ingredients are added to them, and must never be allowed to boil; as, in that case, they would instantly curdle.

SAUCE à L’AURORE, for Trout, Soles, &c.

_Ingredients._—The spawn of 1 lobster, 1 oz. of butter, ½ pint of Béchamel, the juice of ½ lemon, a high seasoning of salt and cayenne. _Mode._—Take the spawn and pound it in a mortar with the butter, until quite smooth, and work it through a hair sieve. Put the Béchamel into a stewpan, add the pounded spawn, the lemon-juice, which must be strained, and a plentiful seasoning of cayenne and salt; let it just simmer, but do not allow it to boil, or the beautiful red colour of the sauce will be spoiled. A small spoonful of anchovy essence may be added at pleasure. _Time._—1 minute to simmer. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 1_s._ _Sufficient_ for a pair of large soles. _Seasonable_ at any time.

SAUCE à la MATELOTE, for Fish.

_Ingredients._—½ pint of Espagnole, 3 onions, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, ½ glass of port wine, a bunch of sweet herbs, ½ bay-leaf, salt and pepper to taste, 1 clove, 2 berries of allspice, a little liquor in which the fish has been boiled, lemon-juice, and anchovy sauce. _Mode._—Slice and fry the onions of a nice brown colour, and put them into a stewpan with the Espagnole, ketchup, wine, and a little liquor in which the fish has been boiled. Add the seasoning, herbs, and spices, and simmer gently for 10 minutes, stirring well the whole time; strain it through a fine hair sieve, put in the lemon-juice and anchovy sauce, and pour it over the fish. This sauce may be very much enriched by putting in a few small quenelles, or forcemeat balls made of fish, and also glazed onions or mushrooms. These, however, should not be added to the matelote till it is dished. _Time._—10 minutes. _Average cost_, 1_s._ 6_d._ _Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note._—This sauce originally took its name as being similar to that which the French sailor (_matelot_) employed as a relish to the fish he caught and ate. In some cases cider and perry were substituted for the wine. The Norman _matelotes_ were very celebrated.

SAUCE ALLEMANDE,or German Sauce.

_Ingredients._—½ pint of sauce tournée, the yolks of 2 eggs. _Mode._—Put the sauce into a stewpan, heat it, and stir to it the beaten yolks of 2 eggs, which have been previously strained. Let it just simmer, but not boil, or the eggs will curdle; and after they are added to the sauce, it must be stirred without ceasing. This sauce is a general favourite, and is used for many made dishes. _Time._—1 minute to simmer. _Average cost_, 6_d._

SAUCE ARISTOCRATIQUE (a Store Sauce).

_Ingredients._—Green walnuts. To every pint of juice, 1 lb. of anchovies, 1 drachm of cloves, 1 drachm of mace, 1 drachm of Jamaica ginger bruised, 8 shalots. To every pint of the boiled liquor, ½ pint of vinegar, ¼ pint of port wine, 2 tablespoonfuls of soy. _Mode._—Pound the walnuts in a mortar, squeeze out the juice through a strainer, and let it stand to settle. Pour off the clear juice, and to every pint of it, add anchovies, spices, and cloves in the above proportion. Boil all these together till the anchovies are dissolved, then strain the juice again, put in the shalots (8 to every pint), and boil again. To every pint of the boiled liquor add vinegar, wine, and soy, in the above quantities, and bottle off for use. Cork well and seal the corks. _Seasonable._—Make this sauce from the beginning to the middle of July, when walnuts are in perfection for sauces and pickling. _Average cost_, 3_s._ 6_d._ for a quart.

SAUCE, Benton (to serve with Hot or Cold Roast Beef).

_Ingredients._—1 tablespoonful of scraped horseradish, 1 teaspoonful of made mustard, 1 teaspoonful of pounded sugar, 4 tablespoonfuls of vinegar. _Mode._—Grate or scrape the horseradish very fine, and mix it with the other ingredients, which must be all well blended together; serve in a tureen. With cold meat, this sauce is a very good substitute for pickles. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 2_d._

SAUCE, Mango Chetney, Bengal Recipe for Making.

_Ingredients._—1½ lb. of moist sugar, ¾ lb. of salt, ¼ lb. of garlic, ¼ lb. of onions, ¾ lb. of powdered ginger, ¼ lb. of dried chilies, ¾ lb. of mustard-seed, ¾ lb. of stoned raisins, 2 bottles of best vinegar, 30 large unripe sour apples. _Mode._—The sugar must be made into syrup; the garlic, onions, and ginger be finely pounded in a mortar; the mustard-seed be washed in cold vinegar, and dried in the sun; the apples be peeled, cored, and sliced, and boiled in a bottle and a half of the vinegar. When all this is done, and the apples are quite cold, put them into a large pan, and gradually mix the whole of the rest of the ingredients, including the remaining half-bottle of vinegar. It must be well stirred until the whole is thoroughly blended, and then put into bottles for use. Tie a piece of wet bladder over the mouths of the bottles, after they are well corked. This chetney is very superior to any which can be bought, and one trial will prove it to be delicious.

_Note._—This recipe was given by a native to an English lady, who had long been a resident in India, and who, since her return to her native country, has become quite celebrated amongst her friends for the excellence of this Eastern relish.

SAUCE, Bread (to serve with Roast Turkey, Fowl, Game, &c).

_Ingredients._—1 pint of milk, ¾ lb. of the crumb of a stale loaf, 1 onion; pounded mace, cayenne, and salt to taste; 1 oz. of butter. _Mode._—Peel and quarter the onion, and simmer it in the milk till perfectly tender. Break the bread, which should be stale, into small pieces, carefully picking out any hard or side pieces; put it in a very clean saucepan, strain the milk over it, cover it up, and let it remain for an hour to soak. Now beat it up with a fork very smoothly, add a seasoning of pounded mace, cayenne, and salt, with 1 oz. of butter; give the whole one boil, and serve. To enrich this sauce, a small quantity of cream may be added just before sending it to table. _Time._—Altogether, 1¾ hour. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 4_d._ _Sufficient_ to serve with a turkey, pair of fowls, or brace of partridges.

SAUCE, Bread (to serve with Roast Turkey, Fowl, Game, &c).

_Ingredients._—Giblets of poultry, ¾ lb. of the crumb of a stale loaf, 1 onion, 12 whole peppers, 1 blade of mace, salt to taste, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream or melted butter, 1 pint of water. _Mode._—Put the giblets, with the head, neck, legs, &c., into a stewpan; add the onion, pepper, mace, salt, and rather more than 1 pint of water. Let this simmer for an hour, when strain the liquor over the bread, which should be previously grated or broken into small pieces. Cover up the saucepan, and leave it for an hour by the side of the fire; then beat the sauce up with a fork until no lumps remain, and the whole is nice and smooth. Let it boil for 3 or 4 minutes; keep stirring it until it is rather thick; when add 3 tablespoonfuls of good melted butter or cream, and serve very hot. _Time._—2¼ hours. _Average cost_, 6_d._

SAUCE, Christopher North’s, for Meat or Game.

_Ingredients._—1 glass of port wine, 2 tablespoonfuls of Harvey’s sauce, 1 dessertspoonful of mushroom ketchup, ditto of pounded white sugar, 1 tablespoonful of lemon juice, ½ teaspoonful of cayenne pepper, ditto of salt. _Mode._—Mix all the ingredients thoroughly together, and beat the sauce gradually, by placing the vessel in which it is made in a saucepan of boiling water. Do not allow it to boil, and serve directly it is ready. This sauce, if bottled immediately, will keep good for a fortnight, and will be found excellent.

SAUCE, Dutch, for Fish.

_Ingredients._—½ teaspoonful of flour, 2 oz. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 4 tablespoonfuls of water, the yolks of 2 eggs, the juice of ½ lemon; salt to taste. _Mode._—Put all the ingredients, except the lemon-juice, into a stewpan; set it over the fire, and keep continually stirring. When it is sufficiently thick, take it off, as it should not boil. If, however, it happens to curdle, strain the sauce through a tammy, add the lemon-juice, and serve. Tarragon vinegar may be used instead of plain, and, by many, is considered far preferable. _Average cost_, 6_d._

_Note._—This sauce may be poured hot over salad, and left to get quite cold, when it should be thick, smooth, and somewhat stiff. Excellent salads may be made of hard eggs, or the remains of salt fish flaked nicely from the bone, by pouring over a little of the above mixture when hot, and allowing it to cool.

SAUCE, Green Dutch, or Hollandaise Verte.

_Ingredients._—6 tablespoonfuls of Béchamel, seasoning to taste of salt and cayenne, a little parsley-green to colour, the juice of ½ a lemon. _Mode._—Put the Béchamel into a saucepan with the seasoning, and bring it to a boil. Make a green colouring by pounding some parsley in a mortar, and squeezing all the juice from it. Let this just simmer, when add it to the sauce. A moment before serving, put in the lemon-juice, but not before; for otherwise the sauce would turn yellow, and its appearance be thus spoiled. _Average cost_, 4_d._

SAUCE, Epicurean, for Steaks, Chops, Gravies, or Fish.

_Ingredients._—¼ pint of walnut ketchup, ¼ pint of mushroom ditto, 2 tablespoonfuls of Indian soy, 2 tablespoonfuls of port wine; ¼ oz. of white pepper, 2 oz. of shalots, ¼ oz. of cayenne, ¼ oz. of cloves, ¾ pint of vinegar. _Mode._—Put the whole of the ingredients into a bottle, and let it remain for a fortnight in a warm place, occasionally shaking up the contents. Strain, and bottle off for use. This sauce will be found an agreeable addition to gravies, hashes, stews, &c. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 1_s._ 6_d._

SAUCE, Genévése, for Salmon, Trout, &c.

_Ingredients._—1 small carrot, a small faggot of sweet herbs, including parsley, 1 onion, 5 or 6 mushrooms (when obtainable), 1 bay-leaf, 6 cloves, 1 blade of mace, 2 oz. of butter, 1 glass of sherry, 1½ pint of white stock, thickening of butter and flour, the juice of half a lemon. _Mode._—Cut up the onion and carrot into small rings, and put them into a stewpan with the herbs, mushrooms, bay-leaf, cloves, and mace; add the butter, and simmer the whole very gently over a slow fire until the onion is quite tender. Pour in the stock and sherry, and stew slowly for 1 hour, when strain it off into a clean saucepan. Now make a thickening of butter and flour, put it to the sauce, stir it over the fire until perfectly smooth and mellow, add the lemon-juice, give one boil, when it will be ready for table. _Time._—Altogether 2 hours. _Average cost_, 1_s._ 3_d._ per pint. _Sufficient_, half this quantity for two slices of salmon.

SAUCE, Green, for Green Geese or Ducklings.

_Ingredients._—¼ pint of sorrel-juice, 1 glass of sherry, ½ pint of green gooseberries, 1 teaspoonful of pounded sugar, 1 oz. of fresh butter. _Mode._—Boil the gooseberries in water until they are quite tender; mash them and press them through a sieve; put the pulp into a saucepan with the above ingredients; simmer for 3 or 4 minutes, and serve very hot. _Time._—3 or 4 minutes.

_Note._—We have given this recipe as a sauce for green geese, thinking that some of our readers might sometimes require it; but, at the generality of fashionable tables, it is now seldom or never served.

SAUCE, Indian Chetney.

_Ingredients._—8 oz. of sharp, sour apples, pared and cored; 8 oz. of tomatoes, 8 oz. of salt, 8 oz. of brown sugar, 8 oz. of stoned raisins, 4 oz. of cayenne, 4 oz. of powdered ginger, 2 oz. of garlic, 2 oz. of shalots, 3 quarts of vinegar, 1 quart of lemon juice. _Mode._—Chop the apples in small square pieces, and add to them the other ingredients. Mix the whole well together, and put in a well-covered jar. Keep this in a warm place, and stir every day for a month, taking care to put on the lid after this operation; strain, but do not squeeze it dry; store it away in clean jars or bottles for use, and the liquor will serve as an excellent sauce for meat or fish. _Seasonable._—Make this sauce when tomatoes are in full season, that is, from the beginning of September to the end of October.

SAUCE, Italian (Brown).

_Ingredients._—A few chopped mushrooms and shalots, ½ pint of stock, ½ glass of Madeira, the juice of ½ lemon, ½ teaspoonful of pounded sugar, 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley. _Mode._—Put the stock into a stewpan with the mushrooms, shalots, and Madeira, and stew gently for ¼ hour, then add the remaining ingredients, and let them just boil. When the sauce is done enough, put it in another stewpan, and warm it in a _bain marie_. The mushrooms should not be chopped long before they are wanted, as they will then become black. _Time._—¼ hour. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 7_d._ _Sufficient_ for a small dish.

SAUCE, Italian (White).

_Ingredients._—½ pint of white stock, 2 tablespoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, 1 dessertspoonful of chopped shalots, 1 slice of ham, minced very fine; ¼ pint of Béchamel; salt to taste, a few drops of garlic vinegar, ½ teaspoonful of pounded sugar, a squeeze of lemon-juice. _Mode._—Put the shalots and mushrooms into a stewpan with the stock and ham, and simmer very gently for ½ hour, when add the Béchamel. Let it just boil up, and then strain it through a tammy; season with the above ingredients, and serve very hot. If this sauce should not have retained a nice white colour, a little cream may be added. _Time._—½ hour. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 10_d._ _Sufficient_ for a moderate-sized dish.

_Note._—To preserve the colour of the mushrooms after pickling, throw them into water to which a little lemon-juice has been added.

SAUCE, Leamington (an Excellent Sauce for Flavouring Gravies, Hashes, Soups, &c.—Author’s Recipe).

_Ingredients._—Walnuts. To each quart of walnut-juice allow 3 quarts of vinegar, 1 pint of Indian soy, 1 oz. of cayenne, 2 oz. of shalots, ¾ oz. of garlic, ½ pint of port wine. _Mode._—Be very particular in choosing the walnuts as soon as they appear in the market; for they are more easily bruised before they become hard and shelled. Pound them in a mortar to a pulp, strew some salt over them, and let them remain thus for two or three days, occasionally stirring and moving them about. Press out the juice, and to _each quart_ of walnut-liquor allow the above proportion of vinegar, soy, cayenne, shalots, garlic, and port wine. Pound each ingredient separately in a mortar, then mix them well together, and store away for use in small bottles. The corks should be well sealed. _Seasonable._—This sauce should be made as soon as walnuts are obtainable, from the beginning to the middle of July.

SAUCE, Maître d’Hôtel (Hot), to serve with Calf’s Head, Boiled Eels, and different Fish.

_Ingredients._—1 slice of minced ham, a few poultry-trimmings, 2 shalots, 1 clove of garlic, 1 bay-leaf, ¾ pint of water, 2 oz. of butter, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1 heaped tablespoonful of chopped parsley; salt, pepper, and cayenne, to taste; the juice of ½ large lemon, ¼ teaspoonful of pounded sugar. _Mode._—Put at the bottom of a stewpan the minced ham, and over it the poultry-trimmings (if these are not at hand, veal should be substituted), with the shalots, garlic, and bay-leaf. Pour in the water, and let the whole simmer gently for 1 hour, or until the liquor is reduced to a full ½ pint. Then strain this gravy, put it in another saucepan, make a thickening of butter and flour in the above proportions, and stir it to the gravy over a nice clear fire, until it is perfectly smooth and rather thick, care being taken that the butter does not float on the surface. Skim well, add the remaining ingredients, let the sauce gradually heat, but do not allow it to boil. If this sauce is intended for an entrée, it is necessary to make it of a sufficient thickness, so that it may adhere to what it is meant to cover. _Time._—1½ hour. _Average cost_, 1_s._ 2_d._ per pint. _Sufficient_ for re-warming the remains of ½ calf’s head, or a small dish of cold flaked turbot, cod, &c.

SAUCE, Maigre Maître d’Hôtel (Hot.—Made without Meat).

_Ingredients._—½ pint of melted butter, 1 heaped tablespoonful of chopped parsley, salt and pepper to taste, the juice of ½ large lemon; when liked, 2 minced shalots. _Mode._—Make ½ pint of melted butter, stir in the above ingredients, and let them just boil; when it is ready to serve. _Time._—1 minute to simmer. _Average cost_, 9_d._ per pint.

SAUCE PIQUANTE, for Cutlets, Roast Meat, &c.

_Ingredients._—2 oz. of butter, 1 small carrot, 6 shalots, 1 small bunch of savoury herbs, including parsley, ½ a bay-leaf, 2 slices of lean ham, 2 cloves, 6 peppercorns, 1 blade of mace, 3 whole allspice, 4 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, ½ pint of stock, 1 small lump of sugar, ¼ saltspoonful of cayenne, salt to taste. _Mode._—Put into a stewpan the butter, with the carrots and shalots, both of which must be cut into small slices; add the herbs, bay-leaf, spices, and ham (which must be minced rather finely), and let these ingredients simmer over a slow fire, until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a brown glaze. Keep stirring with a wooden spoon, and put in the remaining ingredients. Simmer very gently for ¼ hour, skim off every particle of fat, strain the sauce through a sieve, and serve very hot. Care must be taken that this sauce be not made too acid, although it should possess a sharpness indicated by its name. Of course the above quantity of vinegar may be increased or diminished at pleasure, according to taste. _Time._—Altogether ½ hour. _Average cost_, 10_d._ _Sufficient_ for a medium-sized dish of cutlets. _Seasonable_ at any time.

SAUCE, a Good, for Various Boiled Puddings.

_Ingredients._—¼ lb. of butter, ¼ lb. of pounded sugar, a wineglassful of brandy or rum. _Mode._—Beat the butter to a cream, until no lumps remain; add the pounded sugar, and brandy or rum; stir once or twice until the whole is thoroughly mixed, and serve. This sauce may either be poured round the pudding or served in a tureen, according to the taste or fancy of the cook or mistress. _Average cost_, 8_d._ for this quantity. _Sufficient_ for a pudding.

SAUCE, Plum-Pudding.

_Ingredients._—1 wineglassful of brandy, 2 oz. of very fresh butter, 1 glass of Madeira, pounded sugar to taste. _Mode._—Put the pounded sugar in a basin, with part of the brandy and the butter; let it stand by the side of the fire until it is warm and the sugar and butter are dissolved; then add the rest of the brandy, with the Madeira. Either pour it over the pudding, or serve in a tureen. This is a very rich and excellent sauce. _Average cost_, 1_s._ 3_d._ for this quantity. _Sufficient_ for a pudding made for 6 persons.

SAUCE, Quin’s, an Excellent Fish Sauce.

_Ingredients._—½ pint of walnut pickle, ½ pint of port wine, 1 pint of mushroom ketchup, 1 dozen anchovies, 1 dozen shalots, ¼ pint of soy, ½ teaspoonful of cayenne. _Mode._—Put all the ingredients into a saucepan, having previously chopped the shalots and anchovies very small; simmer for 15 minutes, strain, and, when cold, bottle off for use; the corks should be well sealed to exclude the air. _Time._—¼ hour. _Seasonable_ at any time.

SAUCE, Reading.

_Ingredients._—2½ pints of walnut pickle, 1½ oz. of shalots, 1 quart of spring water, ¾ pint of Indian soy, ½ oz. of bruised ginger, ½ oz. of long pepper, 1 oz. of mustard-seed, 1 anchovy, ½ oz. of cayenne, ¼ oz. of dried sweet bay-leaves. _Mode._—Bruise the shalots in a mortar, and put them in a stone jar with the walnut-liquor; place it before the fire, and let it boil until reduced to 2 pints. Then, into another jar, put all the ingredients except the bay-leaves, taking care that they are well bruised, so that the flavour may be thoroughly extracted; put this also before the fire, and let it boil for 1 hour, or rather more. When the contents of both jars are sufficiently cooked, mix them together, stirring them well as you mix them, and submit them to a slow boiling for ½ hour; cover closely, and let them stand 24 hours in a cool place; then open the jar and add the bay-leaves; let it stand a week longer closed down, when strain through a flannel bag, and it will be ready for use. The above quantities will make ½ gallon. _Time._—Altogether, 3 hours. _Seasonable._—This sauce may be made at any time.

SAUCE, Robert, for Steaks, &c.

_Ingredients._—2 oz. of butter, 3 onions, 1 teaspoonful of flour, 4 tablespoonfuls of gravy or stock, salt and pepper to taste, 1 teaspoonful of made mustard, 1 teaspoonful of vinegar, the juice of ½ lemon. _Mode._—Put the butter into a stewpan, set it on the fire, and, when browning, throw in the onions, which must be cut into small slices. Fry them brown, but do not burn them; add the flour, shake the onions in it, and give the whole another fry. Put in the gravy and seasoning, and boil it gently for 10 minutes; skim off the fat, add the mustard, vinegar, and lemon-juice; give it one boil, and pour round the steaks, or whatever dish the sauce has been prepared for. _Time._—Altogether, ½ hour. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 6_d._ _Sufficient_ for about 2 lbs. of steak. _Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note._—This sauce will be found an excellent accompaniment to roast goose, pork, mutton cutlets, and various other dishes.

SAUCE, Soyer’s, for Plum-Pudding.

_Ingredients._—The yolks of 3 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of powdered sugar, 1 gill of milk, a very little grated lemon-rind, 2 small wineglassfuls of brandy. _Mode._—Separate the yolks from the whites of 3 eggs, and put the former into a stewpan; add the sugar, milk, and grated lemon-rind, and stir over the fire until the mixture thickens; but do _not_ allow it to _boil_. Put in the brandy; let the sauce stand by the side of the fire, to get quite hot; keep stirring it, and serve in a boat or tureen separately, or pour it over the pudding. _Time._—Altogether, 10 minutes. _Average cost_, 1_s._ _Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.

SAUCE, a Good, for Steaks.

_Ingredients._—1 oz. of whole black pepper, ½ oz. of allspice, 1 oz. of salt, ½ oz. grated horseradish, ½ oz. of pickled shalots, 1 pint of mushroom ketchup or walnut pickle. _Mode._—Pound all the ingredients finely in a mortar, and put them into the ketchup or walnut-liquor. Let them stand for a fortnight, when strain off the liquor and bottle for use. Either pour a little of the sauce over the steaks, or mix it in the gravy. _Seasonable._—This can be made at any time.

_Note._—In using a jar of pickled walnuts, there is frequently left a large quantity of liquor. This should be converted into a sauce like the above, and will be found a very useful relish.

SAUCE, Sweet, for Puddings.

_Ingredients._—½ pint of melted butter made with milk, 3 teaspoonfuls of pounded sugar, flavouring of grated lemon-rind or cinnamon. _Mode._—Make ½ pint of melted butter, omitting any salt; stir in the sugar, add a little grated lemon-rind, nutmeg, or powdered cinnamon, and serve. Previously to making the melted butter, the milk can be flavoured with bitter almonds, by infusing about half a dozen of them in it for about ½ hour; the milk should then be strained before it is added to the other ingredients. This simple sauce may be served for children with rice, batter, or bread pudding. _Time._—Altogether, 15 minutes. _Average cost_, 4_d._ _Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.

SAUCE, Sweet, for Venison.

_Ingredients._—A small jar of red-currant jelly, 1 glass of port wine. _Mode._—Put the above ingredients into a stewpan, set them over the fire, and, when melted, pour in a tureen and serve. It should not be allowed to boil. _Time._—5 minutes to melt the jelly. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 1_s._

SAUCE, Tournée.

_Ingredients._—1 pint of white stock, thickening of flour and butter, or white roux, a faggot of savoury herbs, including parsley, 6 chopped mushrooms, 6 green onions. _Mode._—Put the stock into a stewpan with the herbs, onions, and mushrooms, and let it simmer very gently for about ½ hour; stir in sufficient thickening to make it of a proper consistency; let it boil for a few minutes, then skim off all the fat, strain and serve. This sauce, with the addition of a little cream, is now frequently called velouté. _Time._—½ hour. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 6_d._

_Note._—If poultry trimmings are at hand, the stock should be made of these. The above sauce should not be made too thick, as it does not then admit of the fat being nicely removed.

SAUCE FOR WILDFOWL.

_Ingredients._—1 glass of port wine, 1 tablespoonful of Leamington sauce, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1 slice of lemon-peel, 1 large shalot cut in slices, 1 blade of mace, cayenne to taste. _Mode._—Put all the ingredients into a stewpan, set it over the fire, and let it simmer for about 5 minutes; then strain and serve the sauce in a tureen. _Time._—5 minutes, _Average cost_, for this quantity, 8_d._

SAUSAGE-MEAT, Fried.

_Ingredients._—To every 1 lb. of lean pork, add ¾ lb. of fat bacon, ½ oz. of salt, 1 saltspoonful of pepper, ¼ teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley. _Mode._—Remove from the pork all skin, gristle, and bone, and chop it finely with the bacon; add the remaining ingredients, and carefully mix altogether. Pound it well in a mortar, make it into convenient-sized cakes, flour these, and fry them a nice brown for about 10 minutes. This is a very simple method of making sausage-meat, and on trial will prove very good, its great recommendation being, that it is so easily made. _Time._—10 minutes. _Seasonable_ from September to March.

SAUSAGE-MEAT STUFFING FOR TURKEYS.

_Ingredients._—6 oz. of lean pork, 6 oz. of fat pork, both weighed after being chopped (beef-suet may be substituted for the latter), 2 oz. of bread-crumbs, 1 small tablespoonful of minced sage, 1 blade of pounded mace, salt and pepper to taste, 1 egg. _Mode._—Chop the meat and fat very finely, mix with them the other ingredients, taking care that the whole is thoroughly incorporated. Moisten with the egg, and the stuffing will be ready for use. Equal quantities of this stuffing and forcemeat will be found to answer very well, as the herbs, lemon-peel, &c., in the latter, impart a very delicious flavour to the sausage-meat. As preparations, however, like stuffings and forcemeats, are matters to be decided by individual palates, they must be left, to a great extent, to the discrimination of the cook, who should study her employer’s taste in this as in every other respect. _Average cost_, 9_d._ _Sufficient_ for a small turkey.

SAUSAGE OR MEAT ROLLS.

_Ingredients._—1 lb. of puff-paste, sausage-meat, the yolk of 1 egg. _Mode._—Make 1 lb. of puff-paste; roll it out to the thickness of about ½ inch, or rather less, and divide it into 8, 10, or 12 squares, according to the size the rolls are intended to be. Place some sausage-meat on one-half of each square, wet the edges of the paste, and fold it over the meat; slightly press the edges together, and trim them neatly with a knife. Brush the rolls over with the yolk of an egg, and bake them in a well-heated oven for about ½ hour, or longer should they be very large. The remains of cold chicken and ham, minced and seasoned, as also cold veal or beef, make very good rolls. _Time._—½ hour, or longer if the rolls are large. _Average cost_, 1_s._ 6_d._ _Sufficient._—1 lb. of paste for 10 or 12 rolls. _Seasonable_, with sausage-meat, from September to March or April.

SAUSAGES, Beef.

_Ingredients._—To every lb. of suet allow 2 lbs. of lean beef, seasoning to taste of salt, pepper, and mixed spices. _Mode._—Clear the suet from skin, and chop that and the beef as finely as possible; season with pepper, salt, and spices, and mix the whole well together. Make it into flat cakes, and fry of a nice brown. Many persons pound the meat in a mortar after it is chopped; but this is not necessary when the meat is minced finely. _Time._—10 minutes. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 1_s._ 6_d._ _Seasonable_ at any time.

SAUSAGES, Fried.

_Ingredients._—Sausages: a small piece of butter. _Mode._—Prick the sausages with a fork (this prevents them from bursting), and put them into a frying-pan with a small piece of butter. Keep moving the pan about, and turn the sausages 3 or 4 times. In from 10 to 12 minutes they will be sufficiently cooked, unless they are _very large_, when a little more time should be allowed for them. Dish them with or without a piece of toast under them, and serve very hot. In some counties, sausages are boiled and served on toast. They should be plunged into boiling water, and simmered for about 10 or 12 minutes. _Time._—10 to 12 minutes. _Average cost_, 10_d._ per lb. _Seasonable._—Good from September to March.

_Note._—Sometimes, in close warm weather, sausages very soon turn sour; to prevent this, put them in the oven for a few minutes with a small piece of butter to keep them moist. When wanted for table, they will not require so long frying as uncooked sausages.

SAUSAGES, Pork (Author’s Oxford Recipe).

_Ingredients._—1 lb. of pork, fat and lean, without skin or gristle; 1 lb. of lean veal, 1 lb. of beef suet, ½ lb. of bread-crumbs, the rind of ½ lemon, 1 small nutmeg, 6 sage-leaves, 1 teaspoonful of pepper, 2 teaspoonfuls of salt, ½ teaspoonful of savory, ½ teaspoonful of marjoram. _Mode._—Chop the pork, veal, and suet finely together, add the bread-crumbs, lemon-peel (which should be well minced), and a small nutmeg grated. Wash and chop the sage-leaves very finely; add these with the remaining ingredients to the sausage-meat, and when thoroughly mixed, either put the meat into skins, or, when wanted for table, form it into little cakes, which should be floured and fried. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 2_s._ 6_d._ _Sufficient_ for about 30 moderate-sized sausages. _Seasonable_ from October to March.

SAUSAGES, Veal.

_Ingredients._—Equal quantities of fat bacon and lean veal; to every lb. of meat, allow 1 teaspoonful of minced-sage, salt and pepper to taste. _Mode._—Chop the meat and bacon finely, and to every lb. allow the above proportion of very finely-minced sage; add a seasoning of pepper and salt, mix the whole well together, make it into flat cakes, and fry a nice brown. _Seasonable_ from March to October.

SAVOY CAKE.

_Ingredients._—The weight of 4 eggs in pounded loaf sugar, the weight of 7 in flour, a little grated lemon-rind, or essence of almonds, or orange-flower water. _Mode._—Break the 7 eggs, putting the yolks into one basin and the whites into another. Whisk the former, and mix with them the sugar, the grated lemon-rind, or any other flavouring to taste; heat them well together, and add the whites of the eggs, whisked to a froth. Put in the flour by degrees, continuing to beat the mixture for ¼ hour, butter a mould, pour in the cake, and bake it from 1¼ to 1½ hour. This is a very nice cake for desert, and may be iced for a supper table, or cut into slices and spread with jam, which converts it into sandwiches. _Time._—1¼ to 1½ hour. _Average cost_, 1_s._ _Sufficient_ for 1 cake. _Seasonable_ at any time.

SEA-BREAM, Baked.

_Ingredients._—1 bream. Seasoning to taste of salt, pepper, and cayenne; ¼ lb. of butter. _Mode._—Well wash the bream, but do not remove the scales, and wipe away all moisture with a nice dry cloth. Season it inside and out with salt, pepper, and cayenne, and lay it in a baking-dish. Place the butter, in small pieces, upon the fish, and bake for rather more than ½ an hour. To stuff this fish before baking, will be found a great improvement. _Time._—Rather more than ½ an hour. _Seasonable_ in summer.

_Note._—This fish may be broiled over a nice clear fire, and served with a good brown gravy or white sauce, or it may be stewed in wine.

SEA-KALE, Boiled.

_Ingredients._—To each ½ gallon of water allow one heaped tablespoonful of salt. _Mode._—Well wash the kale, cut away any worm-eaten pieces, and tie it into small bunches; put it into _boiling_ water, salted in the above proportion, and let it boil quickly until tender. Take it out, drain, untie the bunches, and serve with plain melted butter or white sauce, a little of which may be poured over the kale. Sea-kale may also be parboiled and stewed in good brown gravy: it will then take about ½ hour altogether. _Time._—15 minutes; when liked very thoroughly done, allow an extra 5 minutes. _Average cost_, in full season, 9_d._ per basket. _Sufficient._—Allow 12 heads for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ from February to June.

SEED BISCUITS.

_Ingredients._—1 lb. of flour, 1 lb. of sifted sugar, ¼ lb. of butter, ½ oz. of caraway seeds, 3 eggs. _Mode._—Beat the butter to a cream; stir in the flour, sugar, and caraway seeds; and when these ingredients are well mixed, add the eggs, which should be well whisked. Roll out the paste, with a round cutter shape out the biscuits, and bake them in a moderate oven from 10 to 15 minutes. The tops of the biscuits may be brushed over with a little milk or the white of an egg, and then a little sugar strewn over. _Time._—10 or 15 minutes. _Average cost_, 1_s._ _Sufficient_ to make 3 dozen biscuits. _Seasonable_ at any time.

SEED-CAKE, Common.

_Ingredients._—½ quartern of dough, ¼ lb. of good dripping, 6 oz. of moist sugar, ½ oz. of caraway seeds, 1 egg. _Mode._—If the dough is sent in from the bakers, put it in a basin covered with a cloth, and set it in a warm place to rise. Then with a wooden spoon beat the dripping to a liquid; add it, with the other ingredients, to the dough, and beat it until everything is very thoroughly mixed. Put it into a buttered tin, and bake the cake for rather more than 2 hours. _Time._—Rather more than 2 hours. _Average cost_, 3_d._ _Seasonable_ at any time.

SEED-CAKE, a Very Good.

_Ingredients._—1 lb. of butter, 6 eggs, ¾ lb. of sifted sugar, pounded mace and grated nutmeg to taste, 1 lb. of flour, ¾ oz. of caraway seeds, 1 wineglassful of brandy. _Mode._—Beat the butter to a cream; dredge in the flour; add the sugar, mace, nutmeg, and caraway seeds, and mix these ingredients well together. Whisk the eggs, stir to them the brandy, and beat the cake again for 10 minutes. Put it into a tin lined with buttered paper, and bake it from 1½ to 2 hours. This cake would be equally nice made with currants, and omitting the caraway seeds. _Time._—1½ to 2 hours. _Average cost_, 2_s._ 6_d._ _Seasonable_ at any time.

SEMOLINA PUDDING, Baked.

_Ingredients._—3 oz. of semolina, 1½ pint of milk, ¼ lb. of sugar, 12 bitter almonds, 3 oz. of butter, 4 eggs. _Mode._—Flavour the milk with the bitter almonds, by infusing them in it by the side of the fire for about ½ hour; then strain it, and mix with it the semolina, sugar, and butter. Stir these ingredients over the fire for a few minutes; then take them off, and gradually mix in the eggs, which should be well beaten. Butter a pie-dish, line the edges with puff-paste, put in the pudding, and bake in rather a slow oven from 40 to 50 minutes. Serve with custard sauce or stewed fruit, a little of which may be poured over the pudding. _Time._—40 to 50 minutes. _Average cost_, 1_s._ 2_d._ _Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

SEMOLINA SOUP.

_Ingredients._—5 oz. of semolina, 2 quarts of boiling stock. _Mode._—Drop the semolina into the boiling stock, and keep stirring, to prevent its burning. Simmer gently for half an hour, and serve. _Time._—½ an hour. _Average cost_, 10_d._ per quart, or 4_d._ _Sufficient_ for 8 persons. _Seasonable_ all the year.

SEPTEMBER—BILLS OF FARE.

Dinner for 18 Persons.

_First Course._

Julienne Soup,
removed by
Brill & Shrimp Sauce.

Red Mullet & Italian Sauce. Vase of Fried Eels.
Flowers.

Giblet Soup,
removed by
Salmon and Lobster
Sauce.

_Entrées._

Lamb Cutlets and
French Beans.

Fillets of Chicken Vase of Oysters au Gratin.
and Truffles. Flowers.

Sweetbreads and
Tomato Sauce.

_Second Course._

Saddle of Mutton.

Veal-and-Ham Pie.

Chickens à la Béchamel. Vase of Braised Goose.
Flowers.

Broiled Ham, garnished
with Cauliflowers.

Fillet of Veal.

_Third Course._

Partridges,
Custards. removed by Apple Tart.
Plum-pudding.

Compôte of Greengages.

Noyeau Jelly. Vase of Lemon Cream.
Flowers.

Pastry Sandwiches.

Plum Tart. Grouse & Bread Sauce, Custards.
removed by
Nesselrode Pudding.

Dessert and Ices.

Dinner for 12 persons.

_First Course._—Mock-turtle soup; soup à la Jardinière; salmon and lobster sauce; fried whitings; stewed eels. _Entrées._—Veal cutlets; scalloped oysters; curried fowl; grilled mushrooms. _Second Course._—Haunch of mutton; boiled calf’s head à la Béchamel; braised ham; roast fowls aux Cressons. _Third Course._—Leveret; grouse; cabinet pudding, iced pudding; compôte of plums; damson tart; cream; fruit jelly; prawns; lobster salad. Dessert and ices.

Dinner for 8 persons.

_First Course._—Flemish soup; turbot, garnished with fried smelts; red mullet and Italian sauce. _Entrées._—Tendrons de veau and truffles; lamb cutlets and sauce piquante. _Second Course._—Loin of veal à la Béchamel; roast haunch of venison; braised ham; grouse pie; vegetables. _Third Course._—Roast hare; plum tart; whipped cream; punch jelly; compôte of damsons; marrow pudding; dessert.

Dinner for 6 persons.

_First Course._—Game soup; crimped skate; slices of salmon à la genévése. _Entrées._—-Fricasseed sweetbreads; savoury rissoles. _Second Course._—Sirloin of beef and horseradish sauce; boiled leg of mutton and caper sauce; vegetables. _Third Course._—Roast partridges; charlotte Russe; apricots and rice; fruit jelly; cabinet pudding; dessert.

* * * * *

_First Course._—Thick gravy soup; fillets of turbot à la crême; stewed eels. _Entrées._—Vol-au-vent of lobster; salmi of grouse. _Second Course._—Haunch of venison; rump of beef à la Jardinière; hare, boned and larded, with mushrooms. _Third Course._—Roast grouse; apricot blancmange; compôte of peaches; plum-tart; custards; plum-pudding; dessert.

SEPTEMBER, Plain Family Dinners for.

_Sunday._—1. Julienne soup. 2. Roast ribs of beef, Yorkshire pudding, horseradish sauce, French beans, and potatoes. 3. Greengage pudding, vanilla cream.

_Monday._—1. Crimped skate and crab sauce. 2. Cold beef and salad, small veal-and-ham pie. 3. Vegetable marrow and white sauce.

_Tuesday._—1. Fried soles, melted butter. 2. Bowled fowls, parsley-and-butter; bacon-cheek, garnished with French beans; beef rissoles, made from remains of cold beef. 3. Plum tart and cream.

_Wednesday._—1. Boiled round of beef, carrots, turnips, and suet dumplings; marrow on toast. 2. Baked damsons and rice.

_Thursday._—1. Vegetable soup, made from liquor that beef was boiled in. 2. Lamb cutlets and cucumbers, cold beef and salad. 3. Apple pudding.

_Friday._—1. Baked soles. 2. Bubble-and-squeak, made from cold beef; veal cutlets and rolled bacon. 3. Damson tart.

_Saturday._—1. Irish stew, rump-steaks and oyster-sauce. 2. Somersetshire dumplings.

* * * * *

_Sunday._—1. Fried filleted soles and anchovy sauce. 2. Roast leg of mutton, brown onion sauce, French beans, and potatoes; half calf’s head, tongue, and brains. 3. Plum-tart; custards, in glasses.

_Monday._—1. Vegetable-marrow soup. 2. Calf’s head à la maître d’hôtel, from remains of cold head; boiled brisket of beef and vegetables. 3. Stewed fruit and baked rice pudding.

_Tuesday._—1. Roast fowls and water-cresses; boiled bacon, garnished with tufts of cauliflower; hashed mutton, from remains of mutton of Sunday. 2. Baked plum-pudding.

_Wednesday._—1. Boiled knuckle of veal and rice, turnips, potatoes; small ham, garnished with French beans. 2. Baked apple pudding.

_Thursday._—1. Brill and shrimp sauce. 2. Roast hare, gravy, and red-currant jelly; mutton cutlets and mashed potatoes. 3. Scalloped oysters, instead of pudding.

_Friday._—1. Small roast loin of mutton; the remains of hare, jugged; vegetable marrow and potatoes. 2. Damson pudding.

_Saturday._—1. Rump-steaks, broiled, and oyster-sauce, mashed potatoes; veal-and-ham pie,—the ham may be cut from that boiled on Wednesday, if not all eaten cold for breakfast. 2. Lemon pudding.

SEPTEMBER, Things in Season.

_Fish._—Brill, carp, cod, eels, flounders, lobsters, mullet, oysters, plaice, prawns, skate, soles, turbot, whiting, whitebait.

_Meat._—Beef, lamb, mutton, pork, veal.

_Poultry._—Chickens, ducks, fowls, geese, larks, pigeons, pullets, rabbits, teal, turkeys.

_Game._—Black-cock, buck venison, grouse, hares, partridges, pheasants.

_Vegetables._—Artichokes, asparagus, beans, cabbage sprouts, carrots, celery, lettuces, mushrooms, onions, pease, potatoes, salads, sea-kale, sprouts, tomatoes, turnips, vegetable marrows,—various herbs.

_Fruit._—Bullaces, damsons, figs, filberts, grapes, melons, morella cherries, mulberries, nectarines, peaches, pears, plums, quinces, walnuts.

SHAD, to Dress.

_Ingredients._—1 shad, oil, pepper, and salt. _Mode._—Scale, empty and wash the fish carefully, and make two or three incisions across the back. Season it with pepper and salt, and let it remain in oil for ½ hour. Broil it on both sides over a clear fire, and serve with caper sauce. This fish is much esteemed by the French, and by them is considered excellent. _Time._—Nearly 1 hour. _Average cost._—Seldom bought. _Seasonable_ from April to June.

SHEEP’S BRAINS, en Matelote (an Entrée).

_Ingredients._—6 sheep’s brains, vinegar, salt, a few slices of bacon, 1 small onion, 2 cloves, a small bunch of parsley, sufficient stock or weak broth to cover the brains, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, matelote sauce. _Mode._—Detach the brains from the head without breaking them, and put them into a pan of warm water; remove the skin, and let them remain for two hours. Have ready a saucepan of boiling water, add a little vinegar and salt, and put in the brains. When they are quite firm, take them out and put them into very cold water. Place 2 or 3 slices of bacon in a stewpan, put in the brains, the onion stuck with 2 cloves, the parsley, and a good seasoning of pepper and salt; cover with stock, or weak broth, and boil them gently for about 25 minutes. Have ready some croûtons; arrange these in the dish alternately with the brains, and cover with a matelote sauce, to which has been added the above proportion of lemon-juice. _Time._—25 minutes. _Average cost_, 1_s._ 6_d._ _Sufficient_ for 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

SHEEP’S FEET or TROTTERS (Soyer’s Recipe).

_Ingredients._—12 feet, ¼ lb. of beef or mutton suet, 2 onions, 1 carrot, 2 bay-leaves, 2 sprigs of thyme, 1 oz. of salt, ¼ oz. of pepper, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 2½ quarts of water, ¼ lb. of fresh butter, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 1 teaspoonful of flour, ¼ teaspoonful of pepper, a little grated nutmeg, the juice of 1 lemon, 1 gill of milk, the yolks of 2 eggs. _Mode._—Have the feet cleaned, and the long bone extracted from them. Put the suet into a stewpan, with the onions and carrot sliced, the bay-leaves, thyme, salt, and pepper, and let these simmer for 5 minutes. Add 2 tablespoonfuls of flour and the water, and keep stirring till it boils; then put in the feet. Let these simmer for 3 hours, or until perfectly tender, and take them and lay them on a sieve. Mix together, on a plate, with the back of a spoon, butter, salt, flour (1 teaspoonful), pepper, nutmeg, and lemon-juice as above, and put the feet, with a gill of milk, into a stewpan. When very hot, add the butter, &c., and stir continually till melted. Now mix the yolks of 2 eggs with 5 tablespoonfuls of milk; stir this to the other ingredients, keep moving the pan over the fire continually for a minute or two, but do not allow it to boil after the eggs are added. Serve in a very hot dish, and garnish with croûtons, or sippets of toasted bread. _Time._—3 hours. _Average cost_, 1_s._ 6_d._ _Sufficient_ for 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

SHEEP’S HEAD.

_Ingredients._—1 sheep’s head, sufficient water to cover it, 3 carrots, 3 turnips, 2 or 3 parsnips, 3 onions, a small bunch of parsley, 1 teaspoonful of pepper, 3 teaspoonfuls of salt, ¼ lb. of Scotch oatmeal. _Mode._—Clean the head well, and let it soak in warm water for 2 hours, to get rid of the blood; put it into a saucepan, with sufficient cold water to cover it, and when it boils, add the vegetables, peeled and sliced, and the remaining ingredients; before adding the oatmeal, mix it to a smooth batter with a little of the liquor. Keep stirring till it boils up; then shut the saucepan closely, and let it stew gently for 1½ or 2 hours. It may be thickened with rice or barley, but oatmeal is preferable. _Time._—1½ to 2 hours. _Average cost_, 8_d._ each. _Sufficient_ for 3 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

SHORTBREAD, Scotch.

_Ingredients._—2 lbs. of flour, 1 lb. of butter, ¼ lb. of pounded loaf sugar, ½ oz. of caraway seeds, 1 oz. of sweet almonds, a few strips of candied orange-peel. _Mode._—Beat the butter to a cream, gradually dredge in the flour, and add the sugar, caraway seeds, and sweet almonds, which should be blanched and cut into small pieces. Work the paste until it is quite smooth, and divide it into six pieces. Put each cake on a separate piece of paper, roll the paste out square to the thickness of about an inch, and pinch it upon all sides. Prick it well, and ornament with one or two strips of candied orange-peel. Put the cakes into a good oven, and bake them from 25 to 30 minutes. _Time._—25 to 30 minutes. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 2_s._ _Sufficient_ to make 6 cakes. _Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note._—Where the flavour of the caraway seeds is disliked, omit them, and add rather a larger proportion of candied peel.

SHRIMP SAUCE, for Various Kinds of Fish.

_Ingredients._—1/3 pint of melted butter, ¼ pint of picked shrimps, cayenne to taste. _Mode._—Make the melted butter very smoothly, shell the shrimps (sufficient to make ¼ pint when picked), and put them into the butter; season with cayenne, and let the sauce just simmer, but do not allow it to boil. When liked, a teaspoonful of anchovy sauce may be added. _Time._—1 minute to simmer. _Average cost_, 6_d._ _Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons.

SHRIMPS OR PRAWNS, to Boil.

_Ingredients._—¼ lb. salt to each gallon of water. _Mode._—Prawns should be very red, and have no spawn under the tail; much depends on their freshness and the way in which they are cooked. Throw them into boiling water, salted as above, and keep them boiling for about 7 or 8 minutes. Shrimps should be done in the same way; but less time must be allowed. It may easily be known when they are done by their changing colour. Care should be taken that they are not over-boiled, as they then become tasteless and indigestible. _Time._—Prawns, about 8 minutes; shrimps, about 5 minutes. _Average cost_, prawns, 2_s._ per lb.; shrimps, 6_d._ per pint. _Seasonable_ all the year.

SHRIMPS OR PRAWNS, Buttered.

_Ingredients._—1 pint of picked prawns or shrimps, ¾ pint of stock, thickening of butter and flour; salt, cayenne, and nutmeg to taste. _Mode._—Pick the prawns or shrimps, and put them in a stewpan with the stock; add a thickening of butter and flour; season, and simmer gently for 3 minutes. Serve on a dish garnished with fried bread or toasted sippets. Cream sauce may be substituted for the gravy. _Time._—3 minutes. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 1_s._ 4_d._

SHRIMPS, Potted.

_Ingredients._—1 pint of shelled shrimps, ¼ lb. of fresh butter, 1 blade of pounded mace, cayenne to taste; when liked, a little nutmeg. _Mode._—Have ready a pint of picked shrimps, and put them, with the other ingredients, into a stewpan; let them heat gradually in the butter, but do not let it boil. Pour into small pots, and when cold, cover with melted butter, and carefully exclude the air. _Time._—¼ hour to soak in the butter. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 1_s._ 3_d._

SKATE, to choose.

This fish should be chosen for its firmness, breadth, and thickness, and should have a creamy appearance. When crimped, it should not be kept longer than a day or two, as all kinds of crimped fish soon become sour. Thornback is often substituted for skate, but is very inferior in quality to the true skate.

SKATE, Boiled.

_Ingredients._—¼ lb. of salt to each gallon of water. _Mode._—Cleanse and skin the skate, lay it in a fish-kettle, with sufficient water to cover it, salted in the above proportion. Let it simmer very gently till done; then dish it on a hot napkin, and serve with shrimp, lobster, or caper sauce. _Time._—According to size, from ½ to 1 hour. _Average cost_, 4_d._ per lb. _Seasonable_ from August to April.

SKATE, Crimped.

_Ingredients._—½ lb. of salt to each gallon of water. _Mode._—Clean, skin, and cut the fish into slices, which roll and tie round with string. Have ready some water highly salted, put in the fish, and boil till it is done. Drain well, remove the string, dish on a hot napkin, and serve with the same sauces as above. Skate should never be eaten out of season, as it is liable to produce diarrhœa and other diseases. It may be dished without a napkin, and the sauce poured over. _Time._—About 20 minutes. _Average cost_, 4_d._ per lb. _Seasonable_ from August to April.

SKATE, With Caper Sauce (à la Française).