Chapter XV: Page 378 (3)

Both these tribes were supposed, at the period I speak of, to amount in all to three thousand, and but a few years after, by those that were sent to visit their settlements (including wives and children) they were computed to be not less than fifteen or twenty thousand. They are already become overbearing and even insolent, brandishing their silver-headed canes in defiance of the inhabitants, and forcing from them liquors, and very often money, and reminding them how cruelly their ancestors had murdered their parents and their husbands.

From these circumstances, and their numbers increasing from day to day, I must conclude, that should the peace be ever broken, these new allies will become the most dreadful foes that ever the colony of Surinam can have to contend with.

In 1763 the town of Paramaribo would have been burnt down to the ground, had it not been prevented by the courage and intrepidity of the sailors, who, at the hazard of their lives, without other assistance, prevented a general conflagration.

About this time a mutiny broke out on Board the outward-bound East Indiaman, Neimburgh, commanded by Captain Ketell. The crew, consisting chiefly of French and German deserters, who had been kidnapped in Holland, rose in arms against their superiors, and having murdered most of the officers and warrant officers, while others were put in chains, carried the vessel to the Brazils, there the ringleaders went on shore, and being engaged in riot and disputation soon discovered what they were to the Portuguese governor, in consequence of which they were all taken into custody; but their accomplices on board suspecting what had happened, immediately slipped their cable, and set sail for the island of Cayenne, where this piracy was put to an end; for the French seizing ship and crew, delivered both to the colony of Surinam, where, in 1764, seven of the most guilty were executed on board the same vessel which they had captured, then at anchor in the roads before the town of Paramaribo. One of these unhappy wretches was decapitated, and six hanged to the yard-arm, whose heads were also chopped off and planted upon iron spikes on the beach, in a cage made for the purpose. The others, who had been taken by the Portuguese, were sent from the Brazils to Amsterdam, after which they were also executed in Texel roads on board the Westelingwerf man of war, which ship was that sent out with us from Holland: their bodies were afterwards gibbeted in iron harness, and placed for an example along the coast.

This same year also, three of the society or colony soldiers, who had been guilty of mutiny and desertion, were executed in Surinam; but as their case is the most peculiar of its kind that ever happened, I must also beg leave to give some account of the transaction.

During the time of an insurrection, which happened in the year 1761 among the negro slaves in the colony of Berbice, where they had not been treated so cruelly as in other colonies, not only a regiment of marines, commanded by Colonel de Salse, which now belongs to General Douglas, was sent over from Holland to that settlement, but troops also from the neighbouring colonies were dispatched, in order to subdue the revolt. In this design they soon succeeded, since the woods in that part, being of small extent, are easily penetrated, which prevents the rebels from forming settlements, and since from the same cause they will not serve to conceal them from their pursuers. The consequence was, that after numbers had been shot dead, and others taken prisoners, the rest were forced to surrender at discretion, and implore for mercy, or they must have been starved to death for want of subsistence.

During these troubles, it happened that one officer and about seventy men, sent from the colony of Surinam, had been posted on the banks of the river Corrantine. This detachment, together with a party of Indians, who are natural enemies to the negroes, but friends to the Europeans, had one day beaten the rebels in a skirmish, having killed several of them, and retaken about the value of twenty or thirty pounds sterling in effects, which the negroes had pillaged from the neighbouring estates. The officer who commanded this detachment having, however, unwarrantably distributed this booty among the Indians alone, without giving a share to his soldiers, disgusted them so much that they revolted; and deserting their commander, took their march for the river Oronoque through the woods, in hopes of soon falling in with Spanish settlements and being relieved: but how miserably were these deluded men mistaken, and disappointed in their desperate undertaking, by meeting the rebels or bush negroes on the second or third day of their march! These, notwithstanding the solemn protestations of the soldiers, that they were come without any evil intention towards them, and their intreaties to let them pass by unmolested, were suspected of being sent out to spy and betray them; the negroes therefore insisted that they should lay down their arms at mercy, which the deserters having complied with, the rebels immediately dressed them in one rank. Then having picked out ten or twelve to assist them in attending the sick and wounded, repairing their arms, and trying to make gunpowder, (in which however they miscarried) they condemned all the others to death, which was instantly put in execution, and above fifty of those unfortunate men were one by one shot dead upon the spot.

It may well be supposed, that those who were saved alive by the negroes must have spun out a very melancholy existence among them, and indeed most of them died within very few months after by ill treatment, hardships, and want; and when the rebels surrendered themselves to the Europeans at discretion, the few remaining miserable wretches that were still found alive, were directly loaded with irons, and sent back from the colony of Berbice to Surinam, where three of them were executed in the town of Paramaribo, one being hanged, and two broken alive upon the rack. One of these miserable wretches was a Frenchman, called Renauld, who seemed to have imbibed the sentiments of the negroes by his residence amongst them. With a truly heroic spirit he comforted his accomplice, who was a German, and, tied down by his side, just ready to receive the dreadful blows, he exhorted him to preserve his courage; adding, that the voyage of life would soon be over, while his own bones were breaking by the executioner with an iron bar.

The ring-leading negroes were roasted alive by half dozens in a shocking manner, being chained to stakes in the midst of surrounding flames, and expired without uttering a groan or a sigh. The miserable fate of so many poor wretches excited great commiseration; and it is impossible to reflect, without the strongest feelings of indignation, on a punishment so shocking to humanity, inflicted upon men, the most of whom were drove to misconduct by tyranny and oppression. But at the same time I shall ever think it my duty to support that the strictest discipline and subordination (when tempered by justice) is absolutely necessary amongst all large bodies of people, of whatever class or description, not only for the good of the public in general, but as the surest means of avoiding severity on the individual (the usual consequence of too much lenity) and of being painfully obliged to establish good order at last by a perpetual round of reluctant rigour and chastisement.——We will now leave these sable scenes, and point out what happened in the colony of Surinam, during its short and flourishing state.

CHAP. IV.

Short Interval of Peace and Plenty—The Colony plunged in new
Distress by a fresh Insurrection, and nearly ruined—Review of the
Troops for its Defence—An Action with the Rebels—Gallant Behaviour
of a black Corps—The Arrival of Colonel Fourgeoud’s Marines.

In 1764, gold and silver specie being scarce, cards were stamped, to the amount of 40,000 l. value, which passed as cash, at a discount of ten per cent.

In 1765, a considerable degree of commotion was excited in the colony, on account of a free negro woman, called Elizabeth Sampson, marrying an European; she was worth above 100,000 l. sterling, inherited from her master, whose slave she had formerly been: having addressed herself to their High Mightinesses, her request was granted; and accordingly, being christened, she entered into the lawful bond of matrimony with a Mr. Zubli.

In the succeeding year the colony was visited by an earthquake, which however did very little damage.

In 1769, the whole coast was on fire, from Cayenne to Demerary: this happened in the dry season, when all the forest is parched by the heat, and the underwood choked with dried leaves. The flames, which were supposed to have been kindled by the neglect of the Indians or rebels, were so violent, that they threatened destruction to several estates, and during the night appeared most tremendous from the sea; while the east wind made the smoke so thick throughout the day, that one person could not see another at the distance of six yards. During this time it is not surprising that the smell was almost insupportable.

This same year, a quantity of rock crystal was discovered in the inland parts of Dutch Guiana.

In 1770, the house of Somelsdyk sold its share or portion of the colony to the town of Amsterdam for the sum of 63,636l. sterling; so that from that period that city possesses two-thirds, and the other third still belongs to the West India Company, which, as I have already stated, form together the society of Surinam.

The colony now seemed in a prosperous and flourishing state, since the concluding of the treaty with the Seramica and Ouca negroes, and every thing exhibited an aspect of peace and good order. The inhabitants believed their persons and effects in perfect security, so that nothing was thought of but mirth and dissipation, which was soon extended to lavishness and profusion. Surinam resembled, indeed, a large and beautiful garden, stocked with every thing that nature and art could produce, to make the life of man both comfortable to himself, and useful to society: all the luxuries, as well as the necessaries of life, abounded; every sense was apparently intoxicated with enjoyment; and, to use the figurative language of a sacred book, Surinam was a land that flowed with milk and honey.

But this delusive felicity lasted not long. The planter, too earnest to become immediately opulent, never once considered the wretchedness of the slave; while drunkenness, luxury, and riot, became predominant in the one party, the misery of the other proportionably increased; nor did the destruction that so lately threatened them seem to have the smallest influence on their minds; at the same time the successful example of the Seramica and Ouca negroes served to stimulate the other slaves to revolt, and from these complicated causes the colony was again plunged into its former abyss of difficulties. The most beautiful estates in the settlement, called Plantations, were once more seen, some blazing in flames, and others laid in ashes; while the reeking and mangled bodies of their inhabitants were scattered along the banks of the river Cottica, with their throats cut, and their effects pillaged by their own negroes, who all fled to the woods, men, women, and children, without exception.

These new revolters were now distinguished by the name of the Cottica Rebels, from the spot on which their hostilities commenced; and their numbers augmenting from day to day, they soon became as formidable to the settlement as the Seramica and Ouca negroes had formerly been, and in 1772 they had nearly given the finishing blow to Surinam. At that period all was horror and consternation—nothing but a general massacre was expected by the majority of the inhabitants, who fled from their estates, and crouded to the town of Paramaribo for protection. In this situation of affairs, the inhabitants were obliged to have recourse to the dangerous resolution of forming a regiment of manumitted slaves, to fight against their own countrymen. When we consider the treatment which was so generally exercised against the slaves of this settlement, it must surprise the reader to be told, that this hazardous resolution had providentially the desired effect. These brave men performed wonders above expectation, in conjunction with the Colonial or Society troops, whose strength and numbers alone were no longer thought sufficient to defend this settlement. But not to rely absolutely on such precarious assistance, the society of Surinam made application to his serene highness the Prince of Orange for a regular regiment, and our corps was in consequence dispatched in the manner which has been already related. As, however, the events which preceded our arrival were of the utmost importance, I shall endeavour to lay before my readers the most authentic information I was able to obtain.

The regular troops from Europe that belong to the society of Surinam, were intended to be twelve hundred men when complete, divided into two battalions, paid partly by the society, and partly by the inhabitants: but they can never produce that number in the field, for many reasons—such as their either dying on their passage, while they are seasoning to the climate, or during their dangerous and fatiguing duty in the woods and swamps. Besides this number, a reinforcement of three hundred more was now sent them from the town of Amsterdam; but of these poor wretches scarcely fifty were landed fit for service; the remainder, owing to the inhumanity of their leader, Mr. H., having participated in a fate little better than that of the poor African negroes in the vessel of the inhuman Captain C—gw—d, who, in 1787, threw 132 living slaves into the sea to perish. The unhappy creatures, under the command of Mr. N. were starved and tormented by unnecessary severity; and his lieutenant, unable to continue a witness of the tyrannical punishments he inflicted, leaped from the cabin window, and terminated his existence.

The military in Surinam are composed of several very good and experienced officers, and well inured to the service, but for their private men I cannot say much; they are, in fact, little better than the outcasts of all nations: they are of all ages, shapes, and sizes, and seem by chance wafted together from all the different corners of the globe. Notwithstanding this, however, it has often been found that they behave well in action, and have on many different occasions, by their bravery, been of infinite service to this settlement [11].

Here is also a small corps of artillery, being part of the twelve hundred, which I must acknowledge to be a very fine company in all respects. As for what they please to call their militia, they are, a few gentlemen excepted, who command them, so strange a collection of ill-disciplined rabble, that they can scarcely be mentioned as fighting men.

With respect to the new-raised corps of manumitted slaves, though in number they amounted but to three hundred, they indeed proved ultimately of as much service to the colony as all the others put together [12]. These men were all volunteers, and in general stout able young fellows, selected from the different plantations, the owners of whom received for them their full value in money. None were accepted but those who were reputed to be of unexceptionable character. It must, however, be observed, that what we Europeans call a good character, was, by the Africans, looked on as detestable, particularly by those born in the woods, whose only crime consisted in revenging the wrongs done to their forefathers. I have been an ocular witness to astonishing proofs of the fidelity of these enfranchised slaves to the Europeans, and their valour against the rebel negroes.

Their chief leaders are three or four white men, called Conductors, to whom they pay the strictest obedience: one or two of these attend them when they set out on any enterprize of consequence. Every ten privates have one captain, who commands them in the forest by the different sounding of his horn, as the boatswain commands the seaman by his call, or as the cavalry of Europe are directed by the sound of the trumpets in the field; by which they advance, attack, retreat, spread, &c.: they are armed only with a firelock and sabre. Of both these weapons they understand the management in the most masterly manner; they generally go naked, in preference, in the woods, excepting trowsers, and a scarlet cap, the emblem of liberty, on which is their number, and which, together with their parole or watchword, which is orange, distinguishes them from the rebels in any action, to prevent disagreeable mistakes. They have, indeed, of late years, been farther distinguished by green uniforms.—Thus far as to the force of the colony.

I have already stated, that the newly revolted rebels, called Cotticas, were just preparing to give the finishing blow to Surinam; and I shall now proceed to relate how this catastrophe was prevented.

These negroes, being commanded by a desperate fellow named Baron, had erected a strong settlement between the river Cottica and the sea-coast, whence they sallied forth to commit their depredations on the plantations in Cottica river, &c.

I have called this settlement strong, because, like an island, it was entirely surrounded by a broad unfordable marsh or swamp, which prevented all communication, except by private paths under water, known only to the rebels, and before which Baron had placed loaded swivels, which he had plundered from the neighbouring estates: it was moreover fenced and inclosed on every side by several thousand strong pallisadoes, and was on the whole no contemptible fortification. To this spot Baron gave the name of Boucou or Mouldered, intimating that it should perish in dust rather than it should be taken by or surrendered to the Europeans. He even presumed to suppose, that it would never be discovered.

After many marches and counter-marches, however, this nest of desperadoes was at last discovered, by the vigilance and perseverance of the Society troops, and the black soldiers or rangers, by which name I shall for the future distinguish them, their service being chiefly like that of the rangers in Virginia, who were sent out against the Cherokee Indians. Another settlement of the rebels was, indeed, well known to exist in that corner of the colony, known by the name of the Lea-shore, and situated between the rivers Surinam and Seramica; but here the situation, by marshes, quagmires, mud, and water, is such, that it fortifies them from any attempts of the Europeans; nay, they are even indiscoverable by negroes, so thick and impenetrable is the forest on that spot, and so choked with thorns, briars, and every species of underwood.

From these coverts they sally forth in small parties, during the night, to rob the gardens and fields surrounding Paramaribo, and carry off the young women, &c. In this wilderness a young officer, Lieutenant Freidrecy, was lost two or three days and nights, as he went out on a shooting party, and would probably never have been heard of, had not the governor, by ordering a gun to be fired at intervals, given a signal for him to find his way back, and thus restored him once more to his friends.

As soon as it was determined that the rebels commanded by Baron, at Boucou, should be besieged and rooted out, a strong detachment of white and black troops were sent against them, under the command of the brave Captain Myland, who was to head the first; and Lieutenant Freidrecy, a spirited young officer, with the conductors, was to lead the latter. The detachment, on their arrival at the marsh, however, were obliged to encamp on its borders, not being able to pass through it on account of its unfordable depth.

On the discovery of the troops, the bold negro Baron immediately planted a white flag within their view, which he meant not as a token of peace, but of defiance; and an incessant firing instantly took place on both sides, but with very little effect.

It was then projected to throw a fascine bridge over the marsh, by the troops; but this plan, after several weeks had been spent in the attempt, and a number of men shot dead while employed upon it, was of necessity laid aside. Thus every hope of passing through the marsh into the fortress being frustrated, and the food and ammunition being considerably lessened, added to the loss of many men, affairs were at length arrived at such a crisis, that the siege must have been broken up, and the remaining troops must have marched back to Paramaribo, had not the rangers, by their indefatigable efforts, and (however strange to think) implacable enmity against the rebels, found out and discovered to the Europeans the under-water paths of communication to Boucou, several being shot and drowned in the execution of this important service.

Captain Myland with the regulars, on this intelligence, now forded the swamp on one side, and instantly making a feint attack on the fortress, drew Baron with all the rebels, as was expected, to its defence; while Lieutenant Freidrecy, with the rangers, having crossed the swamp on the other side, embraced the opportunity of leaping, with his black party, over the palisadoes, sword in hand, without opposition.

A most terrible carnage at this time ensued, while several prisoners were made on both sides, and the fortress of Boucou was taken; but Baron, with the greatest number of the rebels, escaped into the woods, having first found means, however, to cut the throats of ten or twelve of the rangers, who had lost their way in the marsh, and whom he seized as they stuck fast in the swamp; and cutting off the ears, nose, and lips of one of them, he left him alive in this condition to return to his friends, with whom however the miserable man soon expired.

This Baron had formerly been the negro slave of a Mr. Dahlbergh, a Swede, who on account of his abilities had advanced him to the rank of a favourite, had taught him to read and write, and bred him a mason; he had also been with his master in Holland, and was promised his manumission on his return to the colony. But Mr. Dahlbergh breaking his word with regard to his liberty, and selling him to a Jew, Baron obstinately refused to work, in consequence of which he was publicly flogged under the gallows. This usage the negro so violently resented, that from that moment he vowed revenge against all Europeans without exception; fled to the woods, where putting himself at the head of the rebels, his name became dreadful, and particularly so to his former master Dahlbergh, as he solemnly swore that he should never die in peace till he had washed his hands in the tyrant’s blood.

To those who know how greatly mankind are affected by self-interest, it will not appear so extraordinary, as it may to a superficial observer, that these black rangers should so inveterately engage against their friends and countrymen. What will not men do to be emancipated from so deplorable a state of subjection! and this emancipation was obtained upon more certain and advantageous grounds by the consent of the Europeans, than if they had absconded into the woods. Having thus once engaged in this service, it is evident they must be considered by the other party as apostates and traitors of the blackest dye; they must be convinced, that defeat must not only expose them to death, but to the severest tortures; they were therefore fighting for something more than liberty and life: success was to bring them the most solid advantages, miscarriage was to plunge them in the severest misery.

The taking of Boucou was now greatly spoken of, and deemed a very severe blow to the rebels; both the regulars and the rangers, indeed, behaved with unprecedented intrepidity and courage. Captain Myland’s gallant conduct was most highly acknowledged; while Lieutenant Freidrecy was presented by the Surinam Society with a beautiful sabre, a fusee, and a brace of pistols, mounted in silver, and ornamented with emblems expressive of his merit; besides which, he obtained the rank of captain. It must be confessed, that on this occasion the whole detachment, white and black, without exception, justly met with the fullest marks of approbation for their spirited behaviour.—In this state were the public affairs of Surinam; when, in 1773, our fleet dropped anchor before the town of Paramaribo.

CHAP. V.

The Scene changes—Some Account of a beautiful Female Slave—The
Manner of travelling in Surinam—The Colonel explores the Situation
of the Rivers—Barbarity of a Planter—Wretched Treatment of some
Sailors.

Having in the first chapters given some account of our incorporation, our voyage, our landing, and our reception in the colony, in February 1773; and having described the colony of Surinam, its boundaries, and revolutions, from its earliest discovery; I shall now proceed in my narrative, by connecting the proceedings of our little corps with the general chain of events; and write precisely what I have learned by local and ocular observation.

Having already stated that from our arrival till February 27th, we seemed to be landed in Guiana for little more than idle dissipation; I shall now proceed from the same date, which was about the commencement of the rainy season, when our mirth and conviviality still continued, to present to the reader, as a contrast to the preceding scenes of horror, a description of the beautiful mulatto maid Joanna. This charming young woman I first saw at the house of a Mr. Demelly, secretary to the court of policy, where I daily breakfasted; and with whose lady Joanna, but fifteen years of age, was a very remarkable favourite. Rather taller than the middle size, she was possessed of the most elegant shape that nature can exhibit, moving her well-formed limbs with more than common gracefulness. Her face was full of native modesty, and the most distinguished sweetness; her eyes, as black as ebony, were large and full of expression, bespeaking the goodness of her heart; with cheeks through which glowed, in spite of the darkness of her complexion, a beautiful tinge of vermillion, when gazed upon. Her nose was perfectly well formed, rather small; her lips a little prominent, which, when she spoke, discovered two regular rows of teeth, as white as mountain snow; her hair was a dark brown inclining to black, forming a beautiful globe of small ringlets, ornamented with flowers and gold spangles. Round her neck, her arms, and her ancles, she wore gold chains, rings and medals: while a shawl of India muslin, the end of which was negligently thrown over her polished shoulders, gracefully covered part of her lovely bosom, a petticoat of rich chintz alone completed her apparel. Bare-headed and bare-footed, she shone with double lustre, as she carried in her delicate hand a beaver hat, the crown trimmed round with silver. The figure and appearance of this charming creature could not but attract my particular attention, as they did indeed that of all who beheld her; and induced me to enquire from Mrs. Demelly, with much surprize, who she was, that appeared to be so much distinguished above all others of her species in the colony.

“She is, Sir,” replied this lady, “the daughter of a respectable gentleman, named Kruythoff; who had, besides this girl, four children by a black woman, called Cery, the property of a Mr. D. B. on his estate called Fauconberg, in the upper part of the river Comewina.

“Some few years since Mr. Kruythoff made the offer of above one thousand pounds sterling to Mr. D. B. to obtain manumission for his offspring; which being inhumanly refused, it had such an effect on his spirits, that he became frantic, and died in that melancholy state soon after; leaving in slavery, at the discretion of a tyrant, two boys and three fine girls, of which the one now before us is the eldest [13].

“The gold medals, &c. which seem to surprize you, are the gifts which her faithful mother, who is a most deserving woman towards her children, and of some consequence amongst her cast, received from her father (whom she ever attended with exemplary affection) just before he expired.

“Mr. D. B. however, met with his just reward: for having since driven all his best carpenter negroes to the woods by his injustice and severity, he was ruined, and obliged to fly the colony, and leave his estate and stock to the disposal of his creditors; while one of the above unhappy deserters, a samboe [14], has by his industry been the protector of Cery and her children. His name is Jolycœur, and he is now the first of Baron’s captains, whom you may have a chance of meeting in the rebel camp, breathing revenge against the Christians.

“Mrs. D. B. is still in Surinam, being arrested for her husband’s debts, till Fauconberg shall be sold by execution to pay them. This lady now lodges at my house, where the unfortunate Joanna attends her, whom she treats with peculiar tenderness and distinction.”

Having thanked Mrs. Demelly for her account of Joanna, in whose eye glittered the precious pearl of sympathy, I took my leave, and went to my lodging in a state of sadness and stupefaction. However trifling, and like the style of romance, this relation may appear to some, it is nevertheless a genuine account, and on that score I flatter myself may not entirely be uninteresting to others.

When reflecting on the state of slavery altogether, while my ears were stunned with the clang of the whip, and the dismal yells of the wretched negroes on whom it was exercised, from morning till night; and considering that this might one day be the fate of the unfortunate mulatto I have been describing, should she chance to fall into the hands of a tyrannical master or mistress, I could not help execrating the barbarity of Mr. D. B. for having withheld her from a fond parent, who by bestowing on her a decent education and some accomplishments, would probably have produced, in this forsaken plant, now exposed to every rude blast without protection, an ornament to civilized society.

I became melancholy with these reflections; and in order to counterbalance, though in a very small degree, the general calamity of the miserable slaves who surrounded me, I began to take more delight in the prattling of my poor negro boy Quaco, than in all the fashionable conversation of the polite inhabitants of this colony: but my spirits were depressed, and in the space of twenty-four hours I was very ill indeed; when a cordial, a few preserved tamarinds, and a basket of fine oranges, were sent by an unknown person. This first contributed to my relief, and losing about twelve ounces of blood, I recovered so far, that on the fifth I was able, for change of air, to accompany a Captain Macneyl, who gave me a pressing invitation to his beautiful coffee plantation, called Sporkesgift, in the Matapaca Creek.

Having mentioned tamarinds, I will, before we proceed on our journey, embrace the opportunity of introducing a short description of them. The tree on which this fruit is produced is about the size of a large apple-tree, and is very strait, and covered with a brownish-coloured bark; the twigs are slender, arched, and knotty, producing leaves and a pod, which will be best known by the annexed representation, where A is the leaf of the natural size; B the extremity of the branch; C the fruit green and unripe; D the pulp, which is brown when in perfection; and E the purple kernels or stones that are inclosed within it. The upper part of the leaves are a darker green than underneath: upon the whole, they form a very agreeable shade, on which account the tamarind-trees are frequently planted in groves.

The male and female species bear a remarkable distinction in their colour; that of the first having the deepest hue.

I shall not presume to be minute with respect to the medicinal qualities of these or any other vegetable in Guiana, which are as amply as I believe justly described by Dr. Bancroft, in his letters to Dr. Pitcairn, Fellow of the Royal College of Physicians in London, except in mentioning such efficacy as I have found them to possess by my own experience, and which consists in the pulp; which when preserved is a most delicious refreshment in hot climates: it is a laxative, and when dissolved with water, makes a very cooling and agreeable beverage, and is much recommended in all diseases, particularly in fevers.

We now set out from Paramaribo for Sporkesgift, in a tent-boat or barge, rowed by eight of the best negroes belonging to Mr. Macneyl’s estate; every body, as I have already mentioned, travelling by water in this colony.

These barges I cannot better describe than by comparing them with those that accompany what is usually styled the Lord Mayor’s Show on the river Thames. They are, however, somewhat less, though some are very little inferior in magnificence, and are often decorated with gilding and flags, filled with musicians, and abound in every convenience. They are sometimes rowed by ten and even by twelve oars, and being lightly built, sweep along with astonishing celerity. The rowers never stop, from the moment they set out till the company is landed at the place of destination; but continue, the tide serving or not, to tug night and day, sometimes for twenty-four hours together, singing a chorus all the time to keep up their spirits. When their labour is over, their naked bodies still dripping with sweat, like post-horses, they headlong, one and all, plunge into the river to refresh themselves:—

“The wanton courser thus, with reins unbound,
Breaks from his stall, and beats the trembling ground;
Pamper’d and proud, he seeks the wonted tides,
And laves in height of blood his shining sides.”

We now passed a number of fine plantations, but I could not help taking particular notice of the Cacao estate, called Alkmaar, situated on the right side in rowing up the river Comewina, which is no less conspicuous for its beauty than for the goodness of its proprietor, the invaluable lady the widow Godefroy, whose humanity and friendship must always be remembered by me with gratitude.

At our arrival on the estate Sporkesgift, I had the pleasure to be the spectator of an instance of justice which afforded me the greatest satisfaction.

The scene consisted in Mr. Macneyl’s turning the overseer out of his service, and ordering him to depart from the plantation in an inferior boat, called a ponkee [15], to Paramaribo, or wherever he thought proper; which was instantaneously put in execution. The cause of his disgrace was having, by bad usage and cruelty, caused the death of three or four negroes. His departure was made compleatly joyful to all the slaves, by an holiday, which was spent in festivity, by dancing and clapping hands on a green before the dwelling-house windows.

The overseer’s sentence was the more ignominious and galling, as at the time of receiving it a negro foot-boy, who was buckling his shoes, was ordered back, and he was desired to buckle them himself. The spirited conduct of this planter, the joy of his negroes, the salubrity of the country air, and the hospitable manner in which we were entertained at his estate, had such an effect on my constitution and my spirits, that on the ninth I returned, if not recovered, at least greatly benefited, to Paramaribo. But I should be guilty of partiality, did I not relate one instance, which throws a shade over the humanity even of my friend Macneyl.

Having observed a handsome young negro walk very lamely, while the others were capering and dancing, I inquired into the cause of his crippled appearance; when I was informed by this gentleman, that the negro having repeatedly run away from his work, he had been obliged to hamstring him, which operation is performed by cutting through the large tendon above one of the heels. However severe this instance of despotism may appear, it is nothing when compared with some barbarities which the task I have undertaken will oblige me, at the expence of my feelings, to relate.

On our return to the town of Paramaribo, the only news that occurred consisted in a few shocking executions; also that the Boreas man of war, Captain Van-de-Velde, had sailed for Holland; and that Colonel Forgeoud had on the eighth, the Prince of Orange’s anniversary, entertained a large company with a ball en militaire, in the officers guard-room. The music on this occasion consisted of two fiddlers only, who had the confidence to make the colonel pay one hundred and twenty Dutch florins for rosin and catgut.

About this time I was attacked by a distemper called the prickly heat, by the colonists rootvont. It begins by the skin taking a colour like scarlet, (occasioned by a number of small pimples) and itching inconceivably; under the garters, or any place where the circulation is impeded, the itching is almost insupportable.

With this pest all new-comers from Europe are soon infested; the cure is to bathe the parts with the juice of limes and water, as for the bites of gnats or musquitoes. The prickly heat is supposed to be a prognostic of good health by the inhabitants; which I have reason to think true, since from that period my health and spirits were perfectly re-established, and I was once more as happy as Paramaribo could make me.

At this time Colonel Fourgeoud set out with a barge, to inspect the situation of the rivers Comewina and Cottica, in case the actual service of our troops should soon be wanted; being at his departure saluted by the guns from Fort Zealandia, and by those of the ships in the roads. This compliment I acknowledge astonished me, after the coolness which took place, and was now rooted, between this gentleman and the governor of the colony.

As we were still in a state of inaction, I made another excursion, with a Mr. Charles Ryndorp, who rowed me in his barge to five beautiful coffee estates, and one sugar plantation, in the Mattapaca, Paramarica, and Werapa Creeks; the description of which I must defer to another occasion; but on one of which, called Schoonoort, I was the witness to a scene of barbarity which I cannot help relating.

The victim of this cruelty was a fine old negro slave, who having been as he thought undeservedly sentenced to receive some hundred lashes by the lacerating whips of two negro-drivers, in the midst of the execution pulled out a knife, which, after having made a fruitless thrust at his persecutor the overseer, he plunged up to the haft in his own bowels, repeating the blow till he dropped down at the tyrant’s feet. For this crime he was, being first recovered, condemned to be chained to the furnace which distils the kill-devil [16], there to keep in the intense heat of a perpetual fire night and day, being blistered all over, till he should expire by infirmity or old age, of the latter of which however he had but little chance. He shewed me his wounds with a smile of contempt, which I returned with a sigh and a small donation: nor shall I ever forget the miserable man, who, like Cerberus, was loaded with irons, and chained to everlasting torment. As for every thing else I observed in this little tour, I must acknowledge it to be elegant and splendid, and my reception hospitable beyond my expectation: but these Elysian fields could not dissipate the gloom which the infernal furnace had left upon my mind.

Of the coffee estates, that of Mr. Sims, called Limeshope, was the most magnificent, and may be deemed with justice one of the richest in the colony. We now once more, on the sixth of April, returned safe to Paramaribo, where we found the Westerlingwerf man of war, Captain Crass, which had arrived from Plymouth in thirty-seven days, into which port he had put to stop a leak, having parted company with us, as already mentioned, off Portland, in the end of December 1772. This day, dining at the house of my friend, Mr. Lolkens, to whom I had been, as I have said, recommended by letters, I was an eye witness of the unpardonable contempt with which negro slaves are treated in this colony. His son, a boy not more than ten years old, when sitting at table, gave a slap in the face to a grey-headed black woman, who by accident touched his powdered hair, as she was serving in a dish of kerry. I could not help blaming his father for overlooking the action; who told me, with a smile, that the child should no longer offend me, as he was next day to sail for Holland for education; to which I answered, that I thought it almost too late. At the same moment a sailor passing by, broke the head of a negro with a bludgeon, for not having saluted him with his hat.—Such is the state of slavery, at least in this Dutch settlement!

About this time, Colonel Fourgeoud made a second excursion, and now departed with a barge, to explore the banks and situation of the river Surinam, as he had before done those of Rio Comewina and Rio Cottica.

At this time died Captain Barends, one of the masters of the transports, which were still kept in commission, in case they should be wanted for our return to Europe. Five or six sailors now were buried every day, belonging to the merchant ships, whose lamentable fate I cannot pass by unnoticed, being actually used worse than the negroes in this scorching climate, where, besides rowing large flat-bottomed barges up and down the rivers, day and night, for coffee, sugar, &c. and being exposed to the burning sun and heavy rains, and besides stowing the above commodities in a hold as hot as an oven, they are obliged to row every upstart planter to his estate at a call, which saves the gentleman so many negroes, and for which they receive in return nothing—many times not so much as a mouthful of meat and drink; palliating hunger and thirst, by begging from the slaves a few bananas or plantains, eating oranges and drinking water, which in a little time relieves them from every complaint, by shipping them off to eternity. In every part of the colony they are no better treated, but, like horses, they must (having unloaded the vessels) drag the commodities to the distant store-houses, being bathed in sweat, and bullied with bad language, sometimes with blows; while a few negroes are ordered to attend, but not to work, by the direction of their masters, which many would willingly do to relieve the drooping sailors, to whom this usage must be exceedingly disheartening and galling. The planters even employ those men to paint their houses, clean their sash-windows, and do numberless other menial services, for which a seaman was never intended. All this is done to save the work of their negroes; while by this usage thousands are swept to the grave, who in the line of their profession alone might have lived for many years; nor dare the West India Captains to refuse their men, without incurring the displeasure of the planters, and seeing their ships rot in the harbour without a loading;—nay, I have heard a sailor fervently wish he had been born a negro, and beg to be employed amongst them in cultivating a coffee plantation.

I now took an early opportunity to enquire of Mrs. Demelly what was become of the amiable Joanna; and was informed that her lady, Mrs. D. B. had escaped to Holland on board the Boreas man-of-war, under the protection of Captain Van-de-Velde, and that her young mulatto was now at the house of her aunt, a free woman, whence she expected hourly to be sent up to the estate Fauconberg, friendless, and at the mercy of some unprincipled overseer appointed by the creditors, who had now taken possession of the plantation and stock, till the whole should be sold to pay the several sums due to them by Mr. D. B.—Good God!—I flew to the spot in search of poor Joanna: I found her bathed in tears.—She gave me such a look—ah! such a look!—From that moment I determined to be her protector against every insult, and persevered, as shall be seen in the sequel.—Here, reader, let my youth, blended with extreme sensibility, plead my excuse; yet assuredly my feelings will be forgiven me—by those few only excepted—who delight in the prudent conduct of Mr. Incle, to the hapless and much-injured Yarico at Barbadoes.

I next ran to the house of my friend Lolkens, who happened to be the administrator of Fauconberg estate; and asking his assistance, I intimated to him my strange determination of purchasing and educating Joanna.

Having recovered from his surprize, after gazing at me silently for some time, an interview at once was proposed; and the beauteous slave, accompanied by a female relation, was produced trembling in my presence.

Reader, if you have perused the tale of Lavinia with pleasure, though the scene admits of no comparison, reject not the history of Joanna with contempt.—It now proved to be she who had privately sent me the cordial and the oranges in March, when I was nearly expiring, and which she now modestly acknowledged “was in gratitude for my expressions of compassion respecting her sad situation;” with singular delicacy, however, she rejected every proposal of becoming mine upon any terms. She was conscious, she said, “that in such a state should I soon return to Europe, she must either be parted from me for ever, or accompany me to a part of the world where the inferiority of her condition must prove greatly to the disadvantage of both herself and her benefactor, and thus in either case be miserable.” In which sentiments Joanna firmly persisting, she was immediately permitted to withdraw, and return to the house of her aunt; while I could only intreat of Mr. Lolkens his generous protection for her, and that she might at least for some time be separated from the other slaves, and continue at Paramaribo; and in this request his humanity was induced to indulge me.

On the 30th the news arrived, that the rangers, having discovered a rebel village, had attacked it, and carried off three prisoners, leaving four others dead upon the spot, whose right hands, chopped off and barbecued or smoke-dried, they had sent to the governor of Paramaribo as a proof of their valour and fidelity.

On receiving this intelligence, Colonel Fourgeoud immediately left the river Surinam, where he still was, and on the first of May returned to town, in expectation of his regiment being employed on actual service, but there the business ended; and we still, to our utter astonishment, were allowed to linger away our time, each agreeably to his own peculiar fancy. On the 4th of May, the rangers however were reviewed in the Fort Zealandia, at which ceremony I was present, and must confess that this corps of black soldiers had a truly manly appearance: warriors whose determined and open aspect could not but give me the satisfaction of a soldier in beholding them. They here once more received the thanks of the governor for their manly behaviour and faithful conduct, particularly at the taking of Boucou; besides which, they were entertained with a rural feast, at the public expence, at Paramaribo, to which were also invited their families; and at which feast several respectable people of both sexes made their appearance with pleasure, to witness the happiness of their sable friends, the day being spent in mirth and conviviality, without the least disturbance, nay even with decorum and propriety, to the great satisfaction of the inhabitants.

The Westerlingwerf, Captain Crass, now left the river also, bound for Holland, but first for the colony of Demerary. Thus both ships of war having sailed without us, there was some reason to suppose we were soon to be employed on actual service. There were many motives, indeed, for wishing either that this might be the case, or that we might speedily be permitted to return to Europe. Not only our officers, but our privates, began to feel the debilitating effects of the climate, and many, of that continued debauchery so common in all ranks in this settlement: and as hard labour and bad treatment constantly killed the poor sailors, so now our common soldiers fell the victims of idleness and licentiousness, and died frequently six or seven in a day; whence it is evident to demonstration, that all excesses, of whatever kind, are mortal to Europeans in the climate of Guiana.

But men will give lessons which they do not themselves observe. Thus, notwithstanding my former resolution of living retired, I again relapsed into the vortex of dissipation. I became a member of a drinking club, I partook of all polite and impolite amusements, and plunged into every extravagance without exception. I did not, however, escape without the punishment I deserved. I was seized suddenly with a dreadful fever; and such was its violence, that in a few days I was no more expected to recover. In this situation I lay in my hammock until the 17th, with only a soldier and my black boy to attend me, and without any other friend: sickness being universal among the new-comers to this country, and every one of our corps having so much to do to take care of themselves, neglect was an inevitable consequence, even among the nearest acquaintance. This, however, is a censure which does not apply to the inhabitants, who perhaps are the most hospitable people on the globe to Europeans. These philanthropists not only supply the sick with a variety of cordials at the same time, but crowd their apartments with innumerable condolers, who from morning till night continue prescribing, insisting, bewailing, and lamenting, friend and stranger without exception; and this lasts until the patient becomes delirious, and expires. Such must inevitably have been my case, between the two extremes of neglect and importunity, had it not been for the happy intervention of poor Joanna, who one morning entered my apartment, to my unspeakable joy and surprize, accompanied by one of her sisters. She informed me that she was acquainted with my forlorn situation; that if I still entertained for her the same good opinion, her only request was, that she might wait upon me till I should be recovered. I indeed gratefully accepted her offer; and by her unremitting care and attention had the good fortune so far to regain my health and spirits, as to be able, in a few days after, to take an airing in Mr. Kennedy’s carriage.

Till this time I had chiefly been Joanna’s friend; but now I began to feel I was her captive. I renewed my wild proposals of purchasing, educating, and transporting her to Europe; which, though offered with the most perfect sincerity, were, by her, rejected once more, with this humble declaration:

“I am born a low contemptible slave. Were you to treat me with too much attention, you must degrade yourself with all your friends and relations; while the purchase of my freedom you will find expensive, difficult, and apparently impossible. Yet though a slave, I have a soul, I hope, not inferior to that of an European; and blush not to avow the regard I retain for you, who have distinguished me so much above all others of my unhappy birth. You have, Sir, pitied me; and now, independent of every other thought, I shall have pride in throwing myself at your feet, till fate shall part us, or my conduct become such as to give you cause to banish me from your presence.”

This she uttered with a down-cast look, and tears dropping on her heaving bosom, while she held her companion by the hand.

From that instant this excellent creature was mine;—nor had I ever after cause to repent of the step I had taken, as will more particularly appear in the course of this narrative.

I cannot omit to record, that having purchased for her presents to the value of twenty guineas, I was the next day greatly astonished to see all my gold returned upon my table; the charming Joanna having carried every article back to the merchants, who cheerfully returned her the money.

“Your generous intentions alone, Sir, (she said) were sufficient: but allow me to tell you, that I cannot help considering any superfluous expence on my account as a diminution of that good opinion which I hope you have, and will ever entertain, of my disinterested disposition.”

Such was the language of a slave, who had simple nature only for her instructor, the purity of whose sentiments stood in need of no comment, and these I was now determined to improve by every care.