Chapter I: Part 1

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NARRATIVE
OF A
VOYAGE
TO
HUDSON’S BAY
IN
HIS MAJESTY’S SHIP ROSAMOND
CONTAINING SOME ACCOUNT OF
THE NORTH-EASTERN COAST OF AMERICA
AND
OF THE TRIBES
INHABITING
THAT REMOTE REGION.

BY
LIEUT. EDWARD CHAPPELL, R. N.

Ὑµεῖς δ’, ὦ Μοῦσαι, σχολιὰς ἐνέποιτε χελεύθους.
DIONYSII PERIEGESIS. v. 63. _Ozon._ 1697.

LONDON:
PRINTED FOR J. MAWMAN, LUDGATE STREET:
By H. Watts, Crown Court, Temple Bar.
1817.

Originally printed in 1817
for J. Mawman,
Ludgate Street, London, England

TO THE
LORD VISCOUNT PALMERSTONE
BARON TEMPLE
_SECRETARY OF WAR_
MEMBER FOR THE UNIVERSITY OF CAMBRIDGE
&c. &c. &c.

THE FOLLOWING
NARRATIVE
WITH HIS LORDSHIP’S PERMISSION
IS DEDICATED
AS A MEMORIAL OF GRATITUDE
AND A TRIBUTE OF RESPECT
BY HIS LORDSHIP’S
OBLIGED AND FAITHFUL SERVANT
EDWARD CHAPPELL.

ADVERTISEMENT.

Towards the close of the year 1814, a young naval officer, Lieutenant _Chappell_, of his Majesty’s ship _Rosamond_, who had recently returned, for the second time, from an expedition to the _North-eastern_ coast of _America_, brought to _Cambridge_ a collection of the dresses, weapons, &c. of the _Indians_ inhabiting _Hudson’s Bay_[1]; requesting that I would present these curiosities to the Public Library of the University. This Collection so much resembled another which the _Russian_ Commodore _Billings_ brought to Petersburg from the _North-western_ shores of the same continent, and part of which Professor _Pallas_ had given to me in the _Crimea_, that, being desirous to learn whether the same customs and language might not be observed over the whole of _North America_, between the parallels 50° and 70° of north latitude, I proposed to Lieutenant _Chappell_ a series of questions concerning the natives of the _North-eastern_ coast; desiring to have an answer to each of them, in writing, founded upon his own personal observations. In consequence of this application, I was entrusted with a perusal of the following _Journal_. It was written by himself, during his last expedition: and having since prevailed upon him to make it public, it is a duty incumbent upon me to vouch for its authenticity, and to make known some particulars respecting its author, which may perhaps give an additional interest to his Narrative. The Letters, indeed, which have accompanied his communications with regard to his late voyage, are strongly tinged with the “_infandum jubes renovare dolorem_;” because, to the ardent spirit of a _British_ seaman, no service can be more depressing than that which, during war, banishes him from the career of glory, to a station where no proof of skill or of intrepidity, no enterprise of fatigue or of danger, is ever attended with honour or reward[2]. Lieutenant _Chappell_ was twice ordered upon this station; after exploits in the navy, which, at a very early period of his life, obtained for him the rank he now holds.

In 1805, he assisted in cutting out the _Spanish_ privateer-schooner, _Isabella La Demos_, from under the batteries of a small bay in _South America_[3]. In 1806, after witnessing the battle of _St. Domingo_, he was with the boats which burned the _Imperiale_ of 120 guns, and the _Diomede_ of eighty guns. In the latter end of the same year, his ship, the _King’s Fisher_, having towed _Lord Cochrane_’s frigate from under the batteries of _L’Isle d’Aix_, near _Rochfort_, assisted in the capture of _Le President_ of forty-four guns. In 1808, he was at the capture of the _Danish_ islands, _St. Thomas_ and _St. Croix_, in the _West Indies_. In 1808, or 1809, he was in the _Intrepid_ of sixty-four guns, when she engaged two _French_ frigates, and was very severely handled. Afterwards, he was at the capture of the _Saints_, and of the Island of _Martinico_, when he was employed on the shore, in fighting the _breaching_ batteries. In 1810, he commanded a gun-boat during the siege of _Cadiz_. The conduct of the gun-boats upon this occasion requires no comment: it was then that he received a severe wound in the thigh, and was made Lieutenant. In 1812, he assisted in landing the Expedition, under General _Maitland_, in _Murcia_. In 1813, he was employed in protecting the fisheries upon the coast of _Labrador_. In 1814, he made the voyage to _Hudson’s Bay_, whereof the following pages contain his unaltered Narrative. In 1815, being First Lieutenant of his Majesty’s ship _Leven_, he was employed in assisting the Chiefs of _La Vendee_, and in reinstating the Prince _Tremouille_ in the Captain-generalship of the Department _de Cotes d’Or_.

Such have been the services of this meritorious officer, now only twenty-five years of age; but, owing to the termination of the war, dismissed, with many other of his gallant comrades, from the active duties in which they were engaged. These circumstances, as it must be obvious, are by no means querulously introduced: nor is the following Narrative made public with the slightest intention of reproaching the _Admiralty_ with the hard lot to which one of its naval heroes was exposed, in being twice employed in such a service:—it is a lot that must fall somewhere; and the present Publication will shew, that the person upon whom it devolved is able to give a satisfactory account of the manner in which this part of his duty was performed.

EDWARD DANIEL CLARKE.

University Library, Cambridge,
_April 7, 1817_.

LIST OF ENGRAVINGS.

Map of the _Great Nelson River_, from the _Great Lake Winnepeg_ to
the _Gull Lake_; shewing the different Portages, Falls,
and Rapids: by Mr. _William Hillier_, Master in the Royal
Navy facing Title-page.
View of the _Rosamond_ passing to windward of an _Iceberg_ P. 1
_Cape Saddle Back_, north 7 or 8 miles: with two remarkable
_Icebergs_ off the low point 55
Male _Esquimaux_, in his Canoe ib.
An _Esquimaux_ Hut 75
Sledge drawn by Dogs, used by _European_ Traders at _Hudson’s
Bay_, and on the Southern Coast of _Labrador_ 106
Bark Canoe of the _Cree Indians_ in _Hudson’s Bay_ ib.
Appearance of the Entrance of _Prince of Wales’s Sound_, bearing
S. W. ½ W. about nine leagues;—taken August 17, 1814 133
The _Rosamond_ grappled among close Ice ib.
Interior of a Wigwam of the _Cree Indians_ 211

NARRATIVE,
&c. &c.

On the 14th day of _May_, 1814, Captain _Campbell_ received orders to repair, without delay, to _Hoseley Bay_, on the coast of _Suffolk_; and there to wait for his final directions from the Admiralty.

The _Rosamond_, at this time, had been lying about a fortnight at _Spithead_, perfectly ready for sea; and it was conjectured that _America_ would have been the place of her destination: of course, many among us were big with the hopes of fame, and many with the expectation of fortune. When the above-mentioned orders arrived, however, all chance of our proceeding to the seat of war appeared at an end: yet we consoled ourselves with the reflection, that we should doubtless be employed on the coast of _Norway_; as the whole of that kingdom had been declared in a state of blockade, in consequence of the _Norwegians_ refusing to accede to the Treaty of _Keil_, by which their country was to be annexed for ever to the dominion of _Sweden_. Accordingly, we sailed from _Spithead_.

May _15th_.—We had light winds all this day. As we passed out of _Spithead_, through _St. Helen’s_, we observed His Majesty’s ship _Adamant_, and an _East-India_ ship, going in. About nine in the evening: we passed close to the _Owers Light_.

May _16th_.—In the forenoon, fine calm weather, we came to an anchor in sight of _Brighton_, to wait the change of tide: saw His Majesty’s ship _Hope_ at anchor in the _Roads_. In the afternoon, got under weigh: observed His Majesty’s brig _Tigress_ standing down _Channel_. Towards nightfall, we weathered the promontory of _Beachy Head_, and passed in view of _Hastings_, where the famous battle was fought between _King Harold_ and _William the Conqueror_.

May _17th_.—At two in the morning, anchored in sight of _Dungeness_ Light-house. At seven A.M. weighed, with a foul wind, and beat towards the _South Foreland_. Came in sight of the coast of _France_: observed a large pillar, or monument, on the hills above _Boulogne_, said to have been erected by _Buonaparte_. In the afternoon, anchored off the town of _Folkestone_. Towards evening, weighed again; and, after night-fall, anchored in _Dover Roads_.

May _18th_.—In the morning we had a fine view of _Dover Castle_, the majestic _South Foreland_, &c. Got under weigh, and stood across the _Channel_;—observed many vessels passing between _France_ and _England_. Saw the spires of _Calais_. Beat up at the back of the _Goodwin Sands_;—observed a three-decked ship in the _Downs_, hoisting the flag of his Royal Highness the _Duke of Clarence_, under a general salute of cannon from all the shipping. Towards evening, anchored in sight of _Margate_; but after night-fall, got under weigh again.

May _19th_.—In the morning, anchored again, near a shoal called the _Galloper_. In the forenoon, weighed. Towards evening, passed _Orford-Ness_ Light-houses, and anchored in _Hoseley Bay_. An officer was immediately sent on shore, to bring on board the final orders. The boat was nearly overturned in landing, in consequence of the heavy surf on all parts of this coast: however, the officer returned about midnight, and delivered the orders to the Captain. Nothing could exceed the consternation and astonishment of every person on board, to find we were directed to proceed, almost immediately, for _Hudson’s Bay_!—Had we been ordered to the _North Pole_, there could not have been more long faces among us. Down fell, at once, all the _aërial castles_ which we had been so long building; and nothing remained, but the dismal prospect of a tedious voyage, amidst icy seas, and shores covered with eternal snows.

May _20th_.—A boat was this day despatched to _Harwich_, from which place we were about ten miles distant, to get on board what few naval stores were wanted to complete us for the voyage. _Harwich_ is a small town, with narrow streets, not paved: there are some pleasant walks in the environs. The harbour is a good one, with sufficient depth of water for a frigate. The place is well fortified towards the sea, and has a small naval arsenal. A guard-ship is generally stationed at this port, during war.

May _21st_.—In the morning, His Majesty’s ship _Unicorn_ passed us, under an immense press of sail, with a Royal standard flying at her mast-head, which we saluted with twenty-one guns.

May _22d_.—Towards the evening of this day, our Captain received orders to proceed to the _Nore_, in order to procure pilots to conduct the ship safe to the _Orkneys_. We had also another motive in visiting the _Nore_ at this time, which I may, perhaps, be excused relating, although it have no immediate connexion with the voyage that we were about to undertake. Previous to our sailing from _Spithead_, a shipwright belonging to the dock-yard had been accidentally killed, by our having fired a signal-gun without taking out the shot. Unfortunately, the poor man’s wife, at the moment of his death, was pregnant of her tenth child. A subscription was instantly opened for her, on board our ship, and £.60 was the next day paid into her hands. I have since been informed, that the different ships at _Spithead_ followed our example, as did also the workmen of the Dock-yard; and a handsome sum was collected in the whole. No blame could be attributed to any person; but, to prevent the possibility of such an imputation, it was thought necessary that the gunner should be tried by a court-martial; and it was to assemble this court, that we were now ordered to proceed to the _Nore_[4].

May _23d_.—In the morning, we weighed, with a strong breeze in our favour; and at noon anchored at the _Great Nore_;—observed a _Russian_ Vice-admiral, with a squadron belonging to that nation, at anchor there also. We remained at this place, waiting the arrival of the _Hudson’s-Bay_ traders, until the 30th; when the two ships arrived; accompanied by a brig belonging to the _Moravian Missionary Society_, bound for the coast of _Labrador_, whither she was to proceed under our protection, or at least as far as our courses lay together. It is a rule with the _Hudson’s-Bay Company_, to make their ships always _break ground_ on the 29th of _May_; although, sometimes, they do not leave the river _Thames_ before _June_. The same day on which the _Hudson’s-Bay_ ships arrived at the _Nore_, we were joined by a new Captain (_Stopford_); our former one (_Campbell_) not wishing, for many reasons, to go the voyage. His loss was most sincerely regretted by all of us: however, our new Commander proved himself, during the whole time we sailed together, to be one of the most exemplary captains in His Majesty’s navy. We continued getting our stores on board until—

June _4th_.—Early this day, we weighed anchor. Being the birth-day of our venerable King, all the _English_ and _Russian_ ships of war were dressed with flags, and made a very gay appearance.

June _5th_.—We anchored twice this day, to wait the change of tide: at first, off the _Gunfleet Sand_; and towards evening we brought up, off _Harwich_.

June _6th_.—In the morning, weighed, and beat up into _Hoseley Bay_;—found lying there His Majesty’s ship _Bristol_. Towards evening, sent the purser on shore, to procure fresh beef.

June _7th_.—The boat returned in the morning, with the purser in sad distress; eight men having deserted from the boat, from an antipathy to the voyage.

June _8th_.—A party of soldiers, and an officer, were sent to look for the deserters; but in the evening they returned, unsuccessful.

June _9th_.—In the afternoon, weighed with our convoy, and beat towards _Yarmouth_. In the evening, anchored off _Aldborough_.

June _10th_.—In the morning, we again weighed. At noon, anchored at _Yarmouth_; and sent a boat on shore, to procure beef and vegetables for the ship’s company; as this was the last place we touched at, in _England_. _Yarmouth_ is a large straggling place; consisting of one or two good streets, and many narrow lanes; with open spaces here and there, like squares. The church has a most beautiful spire. The town does not contain any magnificent buildings: here is, however, a very fine market-place; and an agreeable promenade, under the shade of two rows of trees, running along the quay on the banks of the river _Wensum_, on the N. W. side of the town. All the soil around the town is barren; which accounts for the waste of room in the buildings, as land is of little or no value. I know not any place in _Great Britain_ which has finer bathing conveniences. In the evening, we again weighed; and at night-fall passed by _Haseborough_ and _Cromer_ Light-houses.

June _11th_.—In the morning, we saw the _Spurn_ Light-house; and towards noon, we passed by _Flamborough Head_, in _Yorkshire_. Towards evening, we had a fine view of _Scarborough_.

June _12th_.—A beautiful day, running with a fair wind and smooth sea. In the evening, saw the blue tops of the _Cheviot Hills_.

June _13th_.—A fine fair breeze. Towards noon, passed the _Buchan Ness_, and had a good view of _Peterhead_. Towards evening the wind increased to a gale;—hove-to, until morning.

June _14th_.—In the morning, passed the _Pentland Frith_, in which the tide is like a whirlpool; and, after having run by _Long-Hope_ Harbour, we anchored at _Stromness_, in the Island of _Pomona_, the principal of the _Orkneys_; immediately opposite to which is the _Isle of Hoy_, having on it a remarkable high mountain, in shape very like the Rock of _Gibraltar_. Immediately on our arrival, the two _Hudson’s-Bay_ ships fired seven guns each, to give notice to the inhabitants of their arrival. The visits of the _North-west men_, as the _Hudson’s-Bay_ ships are denominated, creates a sort of annual mart, or fair, in the _Orkneys_; as it is from hence that they derive all the necessary supplies of poultry, beef, vegetables, and even men, to fit them for so long a voyage:—consequently, the _Orkney_ people listen with anxiety for this salute of cannon, which announces the arrival of the N. W. ships; as almost every person in the island is, in some way or other, interested in their coming.

June _15th_.—We were employed in watering the ship; and found it difficult to procure a sufficient quantity, owing to a great drought which had lately prevailed.

The town of Stromness is an irregular assemblage of dirty huts, with here and there a decent house. There is scarcely any thing deserving the name of a street in the place, although it is said to contain a population of two thousand souls. A few years ago it did not contain above one third of that number. The harbour is small, but very secure: it is defended from the sea by an island called _The Holmes_; and there is a good summer roadstead outside the island, called the _Back of the Holmes_. Firewood cannot be procured in the _Orkneys_, where there are no trees; but _Newcastle_ coal is always remarkably cheap. About six miles from _Stromness_ is a large lake, called _Stonehouse Loch_, in consequence of some high flat stones which stand by the side of it, something similar in appearance to _Stonehenge_, on _Salisbury Plain_: they bear no inscription, and seem to have been set on their ends in the same state as when taken from the quarry[5]:—the view given of them in _Barrie’s_ Description of the _Orkney Islands_ is perfectly correct. The quantities of grouse, partridge, plover, snipe, &c. in the _Orkneys_, is astonishing: neither foxes nor hares are to be found; but rabbits are very numerous. There are some spots of good land in the valleys; but in such a bad state of cultivation, from idleness and want of manure, that at least five weeds are produced to one blade of corn. Wheat is not grown in any of the islands; the produce consisting, principally, in barley and oats. But the chief export of the _Orkneys_ is kelp, ashes obtained by the burning of sea-weed[6], with which all the shores abound: this proves a most valuable acquisition to those gentlemen whose estates border on the sea; as it sells, on an average, at £.11 a ton; and is collected, at low water, without much difficulty. The kelp estates produce triennial harvests; and when this commodity is gathered, it is sent either to _Newcastle_, to _Dumbarton_, or to _Leith_; great quantities being required for the use of the glass-houses established in those towns. The number of tame geese reared in these islands is really surprising: they wander about the barren hills in flocks, like sheep; and the owners give themselves little or no trouble about them, until they are wanted for sale, or for their own consumption.

June _16th_.—I accompanied some of the officers on a shooting party. This circumstance is merely mentioned to introduce a description of the farm-houses; as we visited many of them during our excursion. The delineation of _one_ will answer for _all_: and surely there never was a scene better fitted for the pencil of a _Morland_! In one corner stood a calf; in another, a sheep and its lambkin; in the next, walled in with loose stones, a piece of sail-cloth served as a bed for the family; and the fourth corner, as also the sides and roof of the building, were garnished with decayed farming implements. The centre of the habitation was occupied by a turf fire, before which some oaten cakes were roasting; and, in the middle of the roof, a large square hole was cut, to allow the smoke to escape. By the side of the fire, in a large and remarkably high rush chair, sat an old woman, with a spinning-wheel before her, endeavouring to still the cries of a very dirty infant that lay in her lap. There was also another apartment to the hut, for the accommodation of the cows, of which they had a considerable number. The two rooms were not even divided by a door from each other, and the bare earth was the only flooring of either.

During this day we were still employed in getting water on board, although it is rather difficult to be procured.

June _17th_.—Our carpenters were busily employed in affixing ring-bolts to the rudder; from which strong iron chains were brought in at the quarter ports of the ship, in order to secure the rudder against the shocks of the drift ice; as we were well aware that we should have to force our way through large quantities of it, in passing _Hudson’s Straits_: and we afterwards found this to have been a most necessary precaution. We likewise borrowed from the _Hudson’s-Bay_ ships the necessary store of ice-anchors, ice-axes, and ice-poles; neither of those articles having been supplied by the Admiralty, probably from not knowing that they would be requisite.

June _18th_.—During the whole of the time that we remained at _Orkney_ after this day, we were busily employed in getting all kinds of necessaries on board.

June _29th_.—We sailed from _Orkney_, at 8 A.M. with the two _Hudson’s-Bay_ ships, and the _Moravian_ Missionary brig, in company. Towards evening it blew a fresh breeze, and the wind veered round against us. At sunset we had a distant view of the _Caithness Hills_ and the _Isle of Shetland_.

June _30th_.—There being a very heavy sea, with rain at times, during this day, we did not perceive any alteration in the climate. The wind still proving foul, we continued to stand to the northward. In the evening, after some very violent squalls and heavy showers of rain, the wind suddenly veered to the N. W. and reduced us to close-reefed topsails, blowing very hard. During the night we stood to the S. W.

July _1st_.—In the early part of the day the gale abated by degrees, and towards evening we had fine sunny weather. Wind still in the N. W. quarter; consequently we have made way to the S. W. since yesterday, about 67 miles. Latitude at noon this day, 59°. 10′. N.

July _2d_.—In the morning, we saw the _Lewis Islands_; and the wind chopping round to S. W. we tacked, and stood off shore to the N. W. At noon, as the wind continued to blow steady in the S. S. W., we steered W. N. W. Many Solan geese flying about: these are nearly the size of a tame goose, but the neck much shorter, and the wings longer, tipped with black; all the rest of their plumage being perfectly white. At night-fall, the weather misty, but not cold.

On taking our last departure from the land this morning, it is necessary to observe, that, in my narrative of the voyage, I shall merely state, on each day, the course and distance run by the ship in the preceding day, without making a dull account of latitude, longitude, bearings and distances, allowances for lee-way, currents, &c. &c.; as all this farrago of nautical calculation, however necessary it may be to mariners, cannot fail to tire out the patience of a general reader; and the object of this publication, is not so much to point out the track of the _Rosamond_, in her voyage to _Hudson’s Bay_, as to describe the manners and customs of the different tribes inhabiting the shores of that immense gulf.

July _3d_.—Course run, W. by N. 66 miles. Thick, foggy weather. During the morning we frequently lost sight of our convoy, but saw them again on its clearing up. Light winds from the S. W. Ship standing to the north. Observed great quantities of a peculiar kind of sea-weed, in the shape of stars. Numberless sea-birds round the ship, particularly Solan geese.

July _4th_.—Course run, W. by S. ½ S. 79 miles. In the middle of the night we had a fair wind, which held during the day, accompanied by a thick fog; ship going generally about five miles an hour. Perhaps it is deserving notice, that, since our departure from _Orkney_, we never had a night so dark as not to be able to read and write.

July _5th_.—Course run, W. by N. ¼ N. 101 miles. During the night, lost our fair wind, and got a westerly breeze, with sunny weather. Towards noon, the wind again veered to the S. W. This day we obtained an observation of the sun, for the first time since our leaving _Orkney_, and found ourselves in latitude 59°. 8′. N. We saw neither Solan geese nor sea-weed.

July _6th_.—Course run, W. by S. ½ S. 90 miles. A fair wind all day, variable from N. E. to S. E., ship steering W. N. W. at about four miles an hour. Noticed the air to be getting much colder, probably occasioned by the wind shifting to the N. E. The sea-birds and weed appeared now to have taken their final leave of us; which certainly agrees with the great Cook’s opinion, that when met with in vast numbers, they are a certain indication of the proximity of land. In the evening, we saw a large _finner_ or two. Ship going about seven miles an hour.

July _7th_.—Course run, W. ¾ S. 121 miles. In the middle of the night, we lost our fair wind. Early in the morning, saw a strange vessel to windward, and made all sail after her: continued in pursuit the whole day, with light winds, varying from North to East. Every person on board was highly elated with the thoughts of a prize. All notion of the strange vessel’s being a friend was scouted; and it was carried _nem. con._ that she could be no other than a rich _American_ from _Archangel_, homeward bound.

July _8th_.—Course, W. by N. ¼ N. 79 miles. At one A.M. spoke the vessel that we were in pursuit of. She was a light brig from _Copenhagen_, bound to _Davis’ Straits_, where the _Danes_ have some settlements. Early in the morning we rejoined our convoy, and shortly afterwards perceived another brig to windward: we immediately made all sail in pursuit of her, but soon relinquished the chase, as we were apprehensive it might lead us too far from our convoy. Wind about N. by W. Ship standing to the westward. No birds to be seen, excepting one or two solitary sea-gulls, which are to be met with at any distance from the land.

July _9th_.—Course run, S. W. ¾ W. 107 miles. A gloomy day. Wind blowing fresh from the North. Towards evening, the wind abated; and it fell calm, which continued through the night.

July _10th_.—Course run, S. W. by W. ¾ W. 36 miles. At 2 A.M. the ship was so surrounded by myriads of porpoises, that it appeared as if they had some intention of taking us by _storm_. It is an opinion of the sailors, that those fish generally precede a smart gale, and make towards the point whence the wind will arise. These swarms were proceeding in a North-east direction. During the fore-part of the day we had light variable winds from the southward; and at noon were taken aback, with a stiff gale from the N. N. W.: it continued to blow hard in squalls.

July _11th_.—Course run, S. W. 32 miles. During this day, the wind blew a pleasant breeze from the N. W. At 10 A.M. we put about ship, and stood to the North. It is worthy of remark, that the sky had been so continually overcast, since we quitted the _Orkneys_, that we had been only able to procure the meridian altitude of the sun twice. Thus we had been twelve days already on our voyage, with only two good observations. It ought also to be mentioned, that we found ourselves much retarded by the bad sailing of the _North-west_ ships; but the _Moravian_ brig sailed very well.

July _12th_.—Course run, N. W. by W. 62 miles. It blew strong all night; but we had a fine day; and towards noon, the wind shifted round, and blew fair at South. We got a peep at the sun this day, and found we were in latitude 57°. 15′. N.

July _13th_.—Course run, W. ½ N. 76 miles. In the morning, the wind changed to N. by E. and blew a moderate breeze. After night-fall we had a faint appearance of the _Aurora Borealis_, in the shape of a _rainbow_, which rendered it peculiarly interesting.

July _14th_.—Course run, S. W. by S. 71 miles. At 9 A.M. we tacked about; and the wind coming fair, we steered N. W. by N. Our ship this forenoon was completely surrounded by innumerable flights of sea-gulls. I should imagine that they had been attracted hither by some unusual assemblage of fish, as they were all busily employed in attacks on the finny tribe.

July _15th_.—Course run, W. by N. 106 miles. This morning we were going five miles an hour, with a fair breeze and thick weather. It is to be observed, that, with a wind from the South-east or East, we have always had a fog; and I have also noticed this to be the case as far to the southward as the Banks of _Newfoundland_; although I am utterly incapable to account for it satisfactorily.

Since our departure from _Stromness_, the variation of the compass had been gradually increasing. We this day allowed for a difference of four points westerly, between the magnetic and the true needle; whereas at _Orkney_ there is only a difference of two points and a half, or 28 degrees. Thus it continued increasing until we arrived within about 300 miles of the settlements in _Hudson’s Bay_; when it decreases much more suddenly; falling away, in that short distance, to half a point, or five degrees, West—this being the ascertained variation at _York Factory_. I should think that no subject could exhibit to an inquisitive mind a more astonishing matter of inquiry, than the singular phenomenon which I have just noticed. Can any thing be more surprising, than that the variation should increase but eighteen degrees, in a run of upwards of 2000 miles to the westward; and that it should then begin to turn; and, in the short run of 300 miles on the same course, that it should suddenly decrease 41 degrees? An officer belonging to one of the _Hudson’s-Bay_ ships attempted to account for this astonishing attraction of the needle, by supposing the contiguity of metallic mountains; but he could state no facts in support of his hypothesis: and, although the interior of the N. W. part of _America_ has doubtless been explored, and is even actually colonized, owing to the enterprising spirit of a _Selkirk_, yet I cannot learn that any metallic mountains have been discovered, with a sufficient profusion of ore to cause such an aberration in the compass, and at so great a distance[7].

Our latitude this day was 56°. 35′. N.; longitude 38°. W. Towards noon, our fair breeze died away, and we had light winds from the westward: in the evening, we exercised the men with the great guns, in firing at a cask in the water.

July _16th_.—Course run, N. W. ¼ N. 35 miles. Light winds and vexatious calms all this day. We now considered ourselves to be distant from the entrance of _Hudson’s Straits_ about 840 miles. I know not what reason could have induced the first discoverers of the northern regions to give such intimidating names to all the most conspicuous capes, promontories, bays, creeks, &c.; unless they were originally bestowed with a view of preventing others from visiting those countries; and at the same time to enhance the public opinion of their own courage:—for instance, we passed, in our voyage to _Hudson’s Bay_, _Capes Resolution_, _Comfort_, _Farewell_, _Discord_, and _Desolation_; also, _Icy_ and _Bear Coves_, and the _Islands of God’s Mercies_.

The ship was now continually surrounded by a species of sea-gull, which, on the water, looked very much like wild-ducks. Those birds appear to be spread in great multitudes quite across the mouth of _Davis’ Straits_, from _Cape Farewell_ in _Greenland_ to the coast of _Labrador_.

July _17th_.—Course run, W. by N. ¼ N. 20 miles. The light variable winds still continued through this day.

Towards evening we were highly entertained with a combat between a whale and two or three of that species of fish called _Finners_. The fury with which they engage is surprising. The whale, slowly lifting up his enormous tail, lets it suddenly fall on his opponents with a most tremendous crash; thereby throwing up foam to an amazing height. Although the Finners have incomparably the advantage in agility, yet in size and strength they fall but little short of the smaller whales. The Finners derive their name from an immense fin, which they use with great effect in their attacks on the whale. Sometimes they lift up this enormous fin, and let it fall upon their antagonist, in the manner of a thresher’s flail; at other times, they run their whole body perpendicularly out of the water, exhibiting a beautiful view of their snow-white bellies. In this position they have the singular power of turning round; and thus they contrive to fall sideways on the whale, with a shock that may be heard at a considerable distance.

The sea was this day covered with an oily appearance; and some old _Greenland_ fishermen, who were on board the ship, gave a marvellous account of its being occasioned by the sperm of the whale.

July _18th_.—Course run W. ¾ N. 65 miles. Early in the morning we had a fine breeze from the N. E. Latitude at noon, by an observation of the sun, 57°. 24′. N.; longitude, by our account, 41°. 17′. W. According to some charts, we considered ourselves this day to be in the longitude of _Cape Farewell_ in _Greenland_. Nothing can exceed the uncertainty that prevails, in almost every chart and book of navigation, respecting the longitude of the Cape in question. In proof of this, I shall quote an extract from the accompanying Memoir to Mr. _Purdy’s_ Chart of the _Atlantic_:—“Both the Requisite Tables, and _Connaissance de Tems_, state the latitude of _Cape Farewell_ at 59°. 38′. N., and longitude, _per_ chronometer, at 42°. 42′. W.; but the _Danish_ charts place the Cape _two degrees_ more to the West. We know not which is right, or if either; and have, _doubtingly_, placed it in 43°. 40′. W. as a mean between the two. This is a point on which further information is particularly required. The old books and charts place it from 44°. 30′. to 44°. 45′. W.”

Nothing can be a more serious inconvenience to mariners than this uncertainty respecting the latitude and longitude of places; and it is scarcely to be credited, that so little pains have been taken to ascertain the longitude of _Greenland’s_ southernmost extremity.

We experienced sharp cold this day, and ascribed it to the winds having blown over the mountains of _Greenland_, on their way towards us. As the next three days furnished no remarks worthy an insertion in this narrative, I shall barely notice the course and distance run by the ship on each day; and the reader may thus pass on to the _22d_.

July _19th_.—Course run S. W. by W. ¾ W. 60 miles.

July _20th_.—Course run W. by N. ¼ N. 68 miles.

July _21st_.—Course run W. 67 miles.

July _22d_.—Course run N. W. ½ N. 47 miles. As an indication of our drawing near to some land, we this morning picked up a broken tree, about eighteen feet long, of the yellow pine species. Although we could not have been less than three hundred miles from the nearest land, it certainly had not been long in the water. After night-fall, we were gratified with a most brilliant display of the _Aurora Borealis_.

July _23d_.—Course run, N. N. W. ¾ W. 23 miles. Early in the morning we saw five _Greenland_ ships, returning to _England_ from the whale-fishery; and shortly afterwards we perceived two ships of war, in the N. W. quarter. At noon we spoke with His Majesty’s ships the _Victorious_ and _Horatio_. They had been to _Davis’ Straits_, for the purpose of protecting the whale-fishery; and the former vessel exhibited a melancholy proof of the ill effects likely to result from the extreme state of ignorance in which our best navigators are placed, relative to the exact situation of the Northern lands. The _Victorious_ had struck on a rock, in latitude 66°. 21′. N., longitude 53°. 47′. W.; entirely owing to the coast of _Greenland_ having been laid down _four degrees_ wrong in the _Admiralty Charts_. The consequences likely to result from the loss of a seventy-four-gun ship, in such a situation, may be easily imagined; allowing every man to have been safely conveyed on board the _Horatio_. The frigate must herself have been short of provisions at the moment; and in what possible way could the captain have provided for the subsistence of nearly six hundred people in addition to his own ship’s company, in a part of the world where he could not have formed the most distant hope of receiving a supply?—Fortunately, they were not destined to experience the horrors of so dreadful a situation; the _Victorious_ was got off the rock again, without much difficulty: yet that her danger had been imminent cannot be doubted, as she was obliged to get a topsail under her bottom; and at the time when we met with her, there were some apprehensions that she might not reach _England_ in safety; the leak being so bad, that the crew were compelled to labour incessantly at the pumps. The _Horatio_ of course remained with her until she reached a _British_ port.

After all that has been said respecting the erroneous state of even the _Admiralty Charts_ for the Northern Seas, yet I do not imagine that the smallest imputation of neglect can be charged to Government upon that account. It has never yet been thought an object of sufficient national importance, to warrant an expenditure of the public money towards defraying the great expense that must necessarily be incurred in surveying thoroughly those frozen coasts which border upon _Davis’_ and _Hudson’s Straits_. The _Greenland_ mariners are notorious for paying so little regard to the situation of the places they visit, that they are incapable of giving any correct information: and the officers of the _Hudson’s-Bay_ ships have a motive in concealing the knowledge which they actually possess: this I shall notice more fully hereafter.

July _24th_.—Course run, N. W. ½ W. 34 miles. This morning some slight indication appeared of a lasting fair wind. The fine mild weather that had prevailed for the last fortnight was far from affording satisfaction to the commanders of the _Hudson’s-Bay_ ships; as they prognosticated much more difficulty in getting through _Hudson’s Straits_, the natural consequence of so much calm weather. It would have pleased them better to have encountered a few gales of wind, even if they had proved foul; as it requires strong winds to carry the drift ice out of the _Straits_, which is very likely otherwise to choke the passage. Entering _Hudson’s Straits_, it is a necessary precaution to keep close in with the northern shore; as the currents out of _Hudson’s_ and _Davis’ Straits_ meet on the south side of the entrance, and carry the ice with great velocity to the southward, along the coast of _Labrador_. We had seen, lately, a number of the kind of birds called, by the sailors, _Boatswains_: they are so numerous to the southward of the Tropic of _Cancer_, that they are called _Tropic Birds_. I cannot say whether they are accustomed to seat themselves upon the water or not; because our visitors flew at a great height over the ship, and we could plainly hear their melancholy screams by night as well as by day. Some amongst them have long feathers, like spikes, projecting from their tails; whilst others in the same flock, and evidently of the same species, are without them: perhaps these remarkable feathers may serve as distinguishing marks between the sexes. At noon this day we were in latitude 58°. 35′. N. longitude 49°. 10′. W. In the afternoon, the _Moravian_ Missionary brig asked, and obtained permission, to part company: she then quitted us, and steered more away to the westward. During the stay of our ship at the _Orkneys_, I had visited the brig in question, and had there met with an old _German_ Missionary; from whom I learned, that the difficulty of first getting on terms of intimacy with the _Esquimaux_ was almost insurmountable. This Missionary had himself been one of the first who succeeded in so dangerous an object, which could only be accomplished by placing an entire confidence in this wild race of people: he therefore remained alone with them, conforming to their loathsome habits, and mildly endeavouring to gain an ascendancy over their minds. It was a considerable time before he dared to attack those established customs which, to him, appeared most exceptionable. Habit had sanctioned polygamy amongst them; although the nature of their climate, and the difficulty of procuring sustenance, had confined that privilege almost exclusively to their Chiefs. Passion was allowed to be pleaded successfully, in extenuation of murder. It was, therefore, with a trembling, but a resigned heart, that the Missionary first ventured to point out those practices as offences against the Great Spirit. “The Almighty,” said the good _Moravian_, “assisted my humble efforts, and my endeavours were crowned with success.” I shall also quote his own words as to the result:—“On the bleak and rocky coast of _Labrador_, a temple is now erected to the worship of God, in which the wild _Esquimaux_ raises his voice in songs of praise to the Most High. Thirty years of my life have been dedicated to this employment; and I am now on my return, to finish my days amongst the flock which has been so manifestly entrusted to my care.”

The Missionary shewed me a _Testament_, _Creed_, and _Lord’s Prayer_, in the _Esquimaux_ tongue: but it will be easily imagined that many deficiencies must have arisen in the first instance; consequently, whenever the _Esquimaux_ were at a loss for words to express any new idea, or the name of any article that they had not before seen, the Missionary supplied them with a corresponding _German_ expression; as the _German_ language, of all others, is most easily pronounced by an _Esquimaux_.

An _English_ frigate had been on a cruize in _Davis’ Straits_; and returning thence, along the coast of _Labrador_, she put into a little bay, for the purpose of procuring a supply of wood and water. The affrighted _Esquimaux_ flew to their beloved Missionary, and pointed out the strange vessel as the cause of their fear: they were, however, soon pacified, and returned quietly to their occupations. Nothing, then, could equal the astonishment of the officers, on landing; when, instead of a wild race of savages, prepared to oppose them, they found a small village, inhabited by an inoffensive people, peaceably employed in their daily duties; and the little children going quietly to school, with books under their arms. Their surprise, however, must have been greatly increased, when they were given to understand, that all this had been accomplished by one man, zealously actuated by a wish of serving his God, in the services he had rendered to these poor _Indians_[8].

July _25th_.—Course run, W. by N. 35 miles. Light variable winds from the southward. We were this morning visited by an officer from one of the _Hudson’s-Bay_ ships; an intelligent man, who had _thirty_ times performed the same voyage. It was his opinion, that the sharp cold, which we had experienced on the 18th of this month, must have been occasioned by the vicinity of ice; and we should doubtless have met with it on that day, had we not fortunately tacked about in time to avoid it. Our latitude at noon, this day, was 58°. 46′. N., and longitude 50°. 16′. W. Towards nightfall, the wind freshened to a fine steady breeze from S. S. W.; and we could plainly discern a bright appearance in the sky, towards the North; this was believed by every person on board to be a certain indication of ice in that direction.

July _26th_.—Course run W. by N. 128 miles.—A fine fair breeze all this day; the ship going about seven miles an hour. In the forenoon, we took on board the chief-mate of the _Prince of Wales_, (one of the _Hudson’s-Bay_ ships,) to act as pilot, or rather to instruct us in the management of our ship, amongst the ice in the _Straits_. He immediately advised us to raise our anchors, lest the shocks of the heavier masses of ice should break the stocks: we also rove smaller braces to all the yards, that we might be able to manœuvre the ship with the greater facility. At noon, we were in latitude, by account, 50°. 11′. N., and longitude 54°. 20′. W. We now kept our course more to the northward, to prevent the possibility of our falling in with the ice to the southward; as there are always large quantities drifting out of _Hudson’s Straits_, along the coast of _Labrador_. Ships do well, therefore, to keep to the northward, until they reach the latitude of _Cape Resolution_; and when that is attained, they may haul in N. W. and keep close in to the North shore; thus making a semicircle round the ice: but they should be particularly cautious not to keep too much to the North, until they reach the longitude of 54° W. and are consequently quite clear of the coast of _Greenland_.

July _27th_.—Course run N. W. by W. 182 miles. As we were now getting well to the northward, the air began to feel quite frigid; and the wind drawing round to the East, we hauled up North. Latitude, at noon, was 60°. 54′. N. Longitude, 59°. 19′. Our distance from _Cape Resolution_ we computed to be about 171 miles. In the afternoon we saw the first _iceberg_, which was an immense mountain of solid ice, in the shape of an English barn[9].

Towards evening, we passed another _iceberg_. It had a complete chain of floating fragments on the lee-side of it, through which we butted our way. We continued to run in for the land, all night, with a fair wind, although it was a very thick fog, and there were numberless _icebergs_ in all directions; indeed, it appeared to me almost miraculous, how we escaped being dashed upon some of them.

July _28th_.—The thick fog still continued, until 9 A.M. when it suddenly cleared up, and we saw the island of _Cape Resolution_, bearing E. N. E. about eighteen miles distant. We had been long wishing to get into the _Straits_; and now that object was accomplished, we as sincerely wished ourselves back again into the ocean. The prospect on every side was of the most gloomy nature: the black and craggy mountains on shore were only visible towards their bases; their summits being covered with eternal snows, and the aspect of the countless _icebergs_, on all sides of us, truly terrific. The strong southerly current continually setting out from all the Northern seas has been hypothetically explained, by supposing that Nature thus supplies the deficiency of water occasioned by the evaporation caused by the heat of the sun between the Tropics. It is not my intention to discuss this philosophical question: suffice it to say, that I can bear testimony to the existence of such a current in all the Northern seas, and along the Coast of _Labrador_ and _Newfoundland_, facing the _Atlantic_; and the effect caused by the continual flowing of the waters towards the South, is attended with the most beneficial effects; as the Northern seas are consequently cleared of the vast accumulation of ice, which would otherwise infallibly block them up, and render all navigation impracticable. We had taken care to get into the latitude of _Lake Resolution_, before we bore away to make the land; and although, in running in for the _Cape_, we still continued to steer a point to the northward of our true course, yet, after all, the southerly current proved so strong, as to set us to the southward of our land-fall: and on our making the _Cape_, it was eighteen miles to the northward of us.

During the remainder of the day, we were endeavouring, with light winds from the N. E. to get in with the north shore; and towards evening we saw much field ice towards the south. As the setting sun had a different appearance to what it generally exhibits in _England_, perhaps it may be thought worthy of notice. Although it glittered to the eye, and threw a golden tint on the water, yet it produced no rays, and might be viewed, for any length of time, without paining the sight by its refulgence. So far was it from bestowing warmth, that the air appeared more intensely cold than it had been during the whole of the preceding day. The clouds, in parallel lines immediately above the descending luminary, exhibited, in the most beautiful manner, all the varieties of the rainbow; the dusky red and deep blue being the most predominant colours. If to all this we add the dazzling reflection which glittered from the snow-capp’d summits of the rugged mountains, and the shining fantastic forms of the floating _icebergs_ in the _Straits_, the prospect will easily be imagined to have excited in our minds those feelings, which induce the mariner, as well as the poet,

“To look, through Nature, up to Nature’s God!”

At midnight we passed an immense _iceberg_, which roared like a thunder storm; occasioned, perhaps, by some cavity in its side, through which the sea was bursting. It was nearly a calm; and the surface of the sea was quite smooth at the moment, attended with that gentle undulating swell which is always prevalent in deep waters.

July _29th_.—In the morning we were obliged to tack about, in order to avoid a large assemblage of drifting masses, termed by the old seamen a _patch_ of ice: the seals were leaping about in all directions, and some few sea-calves were seen. The thermometer in the Captain’s cabin, with a rousing fire, stood at 43°. At noon we were plying to windward off _Savage Island_, which is the next land to the west of _Cape Resolution Island_, on the north shore. _Savage Isle_, lying very low, has not so much snow upon it, in general, as the other parts of the coast hereabouts. The next land to the westward of it is called _Terra Nivea_; owing to its having some mountains, about thirty miles from the sea, entirely covered with snow. During the remaining part of this day we continued our course up the _Straits_, but with the weather almost calm.

July _30th_.—We were entirely surrounded this day with a patch of broken ice, and it extended as far as the eye could reach. The sun shining bright over the calm surface of the sea, called forcibly to my mind a description I had once read of the Ruins of _Palmyra_, in the _Syrian Desert_; the scattered fragments of ice bearing a strong resemblance to the ruins of temples, statues, columns, &c. spread in confusion over a vast plain.

July _31st_.—Early in the morning of this day we reached a remarkable cape, called _Saddle Back_, from the resemblance that it bears to a saddle: and as we were immediately visited by the _Esquimaux_, I must, for a time, quit the ship and her proceedings, to describe the appearance, manners, and customs of this singular race, who inhabit the shores of _Hudson’s_ and _Davis’ Straits_, the northern part of _Hudson’s Bay_, and both sides of the vast peninsula of _Labrador_. Upon the first intelligence of the approach of the natives, I immediately jumped out of bed, and ran upon deck; where, on my arrival, the most discordant shouts and cries assailed my ears. Alongside the ship were paddling a large assemblage of canoes, of the most curious construction: these were built of a wooden frame-work of the lightest materials, covered with oiled sealskin, with the hair scraped off; the skin being sewed over the frame with the most astonishing exactness, and as tight as parchment upon the head of a drum. But the most surprising peculiarity of the canoes was, their being _twenty-two_ feet long, and only _two_ feet wide. There was but one opening in the centre, sufficiently large to admit the entrance of a man; and out of this hole projected the body of the _Esquimaux_, visible only from the ribs upwards. The paddle is held in the hand, by the middle; and it has a blade at each end, curiously veneered, at the edges, with slips of a sea-unicorn’s horn. On the top of the canoe were fastened strips of sea-horses’ hide, to confine the lance and harpoon; and behind the _Esquimaux_ were large lumps of whale blubber, for the purposes of barter. These canoes are only capable of containing one person, for any useful purpose; the slightest inclination of the body, on either side, will inevitably overturn them; yet in these frail barks will the _Esquimaux_ smile at the roughest sea; and in smooth water they can, with ease, travel seven miles an hour[10].