Chapter I: Preface

The circumstances under which the present expedition was undertaken, are indicated in the following extracts from the letters of instruction.

“_Detroit, Aug. 9, 1830._

“SIR: I have been directed by the War Department to request you
to proceed into the Chippewa country, to endeavor to put an end
to the hostilities between the Chippewas and Sioux. The general
route must be left to your discretion. Whether it will be necessary
for you to go beyond Fond du Lac, you can best determine on your
arrival there. From the limited means applicable to this object, I
am apprehensive that your journey cannot be extended beyond that
place. But in that event, it will be necessary to summon some of
the principal Mississippi Chiefs to meet you, as without their
concurrence no durable pacification can be effected.

“Your object will be to impress upon them, the necessity
of terminating their hostilities with the Sioux. And the
considerations connected with the subject are so familiar to you,
that I need not dwell upon them. You are perfectly acquainted with
their useless and harrowing contests, and the miseries these have
inflicted, and yet threaten to inflict upon them. But it will be
well to state to them the result of the recent council at Prairie
du Chien, that they may know what has been done by the other
Indians, and that the Sioux, now freed from the pressure in other
quarters, can direct their whole force against them.

“In addition to the other considerations you may urge, I enclose a
speech to be delivered to them, which you will please to accompany
with a proper belt. I think it will be best for them to send a
message to the Sioux without delay, stating their determination to
refrain from hostilities in conformity with the wish of their great
father the President, and their adhesion to the treaty of Prairie
du Chien. This message should be sent while you are with them,
and I recommend that one from you be likewise sent to the Sioux,
explanatory of the matter.

“You will proceed to the execution of this duty without delay, if
the season be not too far advanced when you receive this letter.
But I am apprehensive it will not reach you in season. Should
it be so, you will please send a message to the chiefs stating
your intention to visit them next summer, and recommending them
to sit still until you can see them. It may have the effect of
keeping them quiet. If, however, you cannot proceed this fall, it
is probable that circumstances may require some change in these
instructions before the next season, and your arrangements must
therefore depend upon such as may be hereafter given.”

“Very respectfully, &c.
LEW. CASS.”

“DEPARTMENT OF WAR, }
_Office of Indian Affairs, 25th April, 1831_. }

“Sir: Since writing the letter to you of the 5th instant, Gov.
Cass has arrived here, and submitted to the Secretary of War
his views, as to the propriety of directing you to proceed into
Lake Superior and the Mississippi country, &c. These views have
been approved, and I am accordingly directed to instruct you to
proceed as soon as your arrangements can be made for the purpose,
on the proposed expedition. The objects to be accomplished are so
well known, and have also been so fully explained in the letter
of Gov. Cass to you of the 9th of August last, that it is deemed
unnecessary to give you any further instructions on the subject.

“Orders will be issued through the proper department, to the
Commanding Officer at the Sault Ste. Marie for a detachment of the
troops, to form a part of the proposed expedition.

“Very respectfully, &c.
SAMUEL S. HAMILTON.”

“DEPARTMENT OF WAR, }
_Office of Indian Affairs, May 3rd, 1832_. }

“Sir: Your letter of Feb. 13th has been received, and its general
views are approved. The Secretary of War deems it important
that you should proceed to the country upon the heads of the
Mississippi, and visit as many of the Indians in that, and the
intermediate region, as circumstances will permit.

“Reports have reached the department, from various quarters, that
the Indians upon our frontiers are in an unquiet state, and that
there is a prospect of extensive hostilities among themselves. It
is no less the dictate of humanity, than of policy, to repress this
feeling, and to establish permanent peace among these tribes. It is
also important to inspect the condition of the trade in that remote
country, and the conduct of the traders. To ascertain whether the
regulations and the laws are complied with, and to suggest such
alterations as may be required. And finally to inquire into the
numbers, standing, disposition and prospects of the Indians, and to
report all the statistical facts you can procure and which will be
useful to the government in its operations, or to the community in
the investigation of these subjects.

“In addition to these objects, you will direct your attention
to the vaccination of the Indians. An act for that purpose, has
passed Congress, and you are authorised to take a surgeon with
you. Vaccine matter prepared and put up by the Surgeon General is
herewith transmitted to you, and you will, upon your whole route,
explain to the Indians the advantages of vaccination, and endeavor
to persuade them to submit to the process. You will keep and report
an account of the number, ages, sex, tribe, and local situation of
the Indians who may be vaccinated, and also of the prevalence, from
time to time, of the small pox among them, and of its effects as
far as these can be ascertained.

“Very respectfully, &c.
ELBERT HERRING.”

In the execution of these orders, the summer season of two years was devoted. All the bands of the Chippewa nation, located north of the mouth of the Wisconsin, and some bands of the Sioux were visited. Councils were held with them at various points, for the objects above specified, and no opportunity was omitted to acquire statistical and other information suited to aid in the formation of correct opinions respecting their condition, and the policy to be pursued respecting them.

The portion of country situated between the bands of Lake Superior and the Mississippi, south of St. Anthony’s falls, occupied the summer of 1831. The area extending thence north, to the source of the Mississippi, and the Hauteur des Terres, forming the elevation separating its waters, from the streams received by Hudson’s bay, constituted the object of the expedition of 1832. So much of this area, as lies north of a latitude line passing through Cass lake, and west of about its parallel of longitude, comprehends the principal topic of description in the following work. And it is thus distinguished, from other portions of the western country, brought into discussion, in my two previous volumes of travels.

HENRY R. SCHOOLCRAFT.
_Detroit, October 10, 1833._

CONTENTS

NARRATIVE
OF AN EXPEDITION THROUGH THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI,
TO ITASCA LAKE.

CHAPTER I.

_Introductory observations on the sources of the
Mississippi.—Pike’s expedition in 1805, for exploring its course,
and ascertaining its origin.—The expedition of Gov. Cass,
directed to the same objects, in 1820.—Its extent, termination,
and results.—Renewed efforts to ascend to its source, by the
author, in 1831.—Diverted to the unexplored country lying in
the area between Lake Superior and the Upper Mississippi, south
of St. Anthony’s Falls.—Summary of the route.—The St. Croix and
Chippewa Rivers.—Massacre of the Monomonees at Prairie du Chien, in
1831.—Mine country.—Return to the Straits of St. Mary._

CHAPTER II.

_Farther observations on the exploration of the Upper Mississippi,
and the discovery of its source.—An expedition authorised by the
United States government, in 1832.—Its organization, objects, and
route.—Leaves St. Mary, and proceeds through Lake Superior.—Sketch
of this lake.—Notice of the murder of Brunet, by an Indian, in
1831.—Mission at Lapointe, or Chagoimegon.—The importance of this
point in Indian history.—Mongozid, Wahbojeeg.—Meet Ozawindib, at
the Brule.—Route to Sandy Lake, on the Upper Mississippi.—Portages
on the St. Louis.—The Savanne portage.—Sandy Lake.—Assassination of
Mr. Kay._

CHAPTER III.

_General arrangements for the route of the expedition on the
waters of the Upper Mississippi.—The width of this stream and
Sandy Lake ascertained.—Notices of the ascent from that point by
the Falls of Peckagama and Lake Winnipec, to Cass Lake.—Attack of
a party of Mandans on the Chippewas at Pembina.—The route of the
Bogottowa Lake.—Encamped at Winnipec House.—Inquiries respecting
the opposition trade, and the traffic in ardent spirits.—Reach Cass
Lake.—The width of the Mississippi, at its outlet.—Encamped on an
island in this lake.—Yellow Head’s town; its population and hunting
grounds.—Remarks on the Fur Trade.—North West, Hudson’s Bay, and
American Fur Companies.—Lord Selkirk’s triumph.—Murder of Owen
Keveny._

CHAPTER IV.

_Brief detail of transactions at Cass Lake.—A select exploring
party is organised here, for ascending to the actual source
of the Mississippi.—Council with the Indians.—Speech of Oza
Windib.—The Indians furnish canoes and guides.—Arrangement of the
party.—Notice of a Warrior’s widow.—Scalp dance.—Facts respecting
foreign interference in the trade of the Upper Mississippi.—The
question of the use of ardent spirits in the trade.—Act of
Congress of 1832, prohibiting it.—Departure of the exploring
party.—Ascent to Pamitchi Gumaug, or Lac Travers.—Its elevation
and size.—A Shingaba Wossin.—Image worship.—Bay.—Ultimate forks
of the Mississippi.—Ascend the east fork.—Lake Marquette.—Lake La
Salle.—Kubbakunna Lake.—Notices of the Natural History._

CHAPTER V.

_Ascent of the east fork of the Mississippi, from Kubbakunna Lake
to the Naiwa rapids.—Its productions.—Indians kill a deer; their
mode of dissecting it.—Reach the foot of Naiwa rapids.—The Naiwa
portage.—Copper-head snake.—Zoned agate.—Journey from thence to
Ossowa Lake, the source of this branch of the Mississippi.—Mistake
in the latitude.—Portage from the east to the west branch.—Hauteur
des Terres.—The height of land between the Hudson’s Bay and Gulf
of Mexico waters.—Geographical notices of its extent.—Its natural
productions.—Its geology.—Arrival at Itasca Lake._

CHAPTER VI.

_Outlines of Itasca Lake.—Its scenery and productions.—Forest
trees, deer, fish, shells.—Width of its outlet.—Altitude above the
ocean.—Length of the Mississippi.—Its course above Cass Lake.—Its
origin south of latitude 47 deg. 16 minutes.—General observations
on the Mississippi.—Erect a flag on the island in Itasca
Lake.—Commence the descent of the West, or Itascan branch of the
Mississippi.—Character of its channel.—Rapids and plateaux.—Falls
of Kakábikons.—Portage.—Encamp at Pine Banks._

CHAPTER VII.

_Continuation of the descent.—Velocity of the rapids.—One of the
canoes is upset, and its contents carried over the falls.—Notices
of the vegetation and zoology.—Fork-tailed hawk.—A novel species
of lizard.—The Yellow Head’s failure in hunting.—Instinct of the
saw-billed duck in preserving its young.—The river continues to
exhibit a succession of rapids and plateaux, during its passage
through the alpine region.—Purity and frequency of springs on
its banks.—Influx of the Cano and Piniddiwin rivers.—Notice of
an inroad and murder committed by the Sioux in former years.—A
night descent.—Some of its incidents.—Reach the junction of the
east and west forks.—Return to Cass Lake.—Observance of the
Sabbath.—Missionary field of labor in the northwest.—Superstitions
and idolatry of the Indians.—Their name for the Deity.—Its probable
derivation._

CHAPTER VIII.

_Council with the Chippewas at Cass Lake.—Speeches of Oza
Windib, Neezh Opinais, and Wai Wain Jeegun.—Distribution
of presents.—Geographical and Geological notices of Cass
Lake.—Colcaspi Isle.—Allen’s Bay.—Pike’s Bay.—Heights and
distances.—Tributary of Turtle River.—Turtle Lake.—Portage from
Cass Lake to Leech Lake.—Hieroglyphic marks.—Moss Lake.—Reach
Lake Shiba.—The source of the River Shiba flowing into Leech
Lake.—Traverse Leech Lake at night, and encamp at Guelle Plat’s
village.—Received by the Indians with respect.—Description of
Leech Lake.—Its population and principal Chiefs.—Warlike character
of the Pillagers.—Efforts made by them to defend the Chippewa
frontiers.—Their warfare defensive._

CHAPTER IX.

_Transactions at Leech Lake.—Notice of the Pillager band.—Their
chief, Aish Kibug Ekozh, or the Flat Mouth.—He invites the agent
and his interpreter to breakfast.—His address on concluding
it.—Vaccination of the Indians.—A deputation from the Rainy Lake
band is received, and a flag presented to their leader, The Hole
in the Sky.—Council with the Pillagers.—Speech of Aish Kibug
Ekozh, in which he makes an allusion to Gen. Pike.—He descants on
the Sioux war, the Indian trade, and the interdiction of ardent
spirits.—Personal notices of this chief._

CHAPTER X.

_Observations on the Leech Lake Chippewas.—Data respecting
the former state of the fur trade.—Their turbulent
character.—Assassination of Relle by Puganoc.—Causes of the
emigration of the North-western Indians.—The unsatisfactory
character of their traditions.—Their language.—Brief synopsis of
its grammatical structure._

CHAPTER XI.

_Encampment on a peninsula in Leech Lake.—Departure for the
portage to the source of the De Corbeau river.—Traverse a
bay.—Commencement of the portage.—The mode of passing it.—First
portage to Warpool Lake.—Pass successively Little Long Lake, the
Four Lakes, Lake of the Mountain, Lake of the Island, and encamp at
the Kagi Nogumaug or Longwater, the source of the De Corbeau.—Are
visited by the Chief of the Pillagers, who performs a journey
for that purpose.—Recognize in his attendant the murderer of
Gov. Semple.—Narrative of facts leading to this event.—Commence
the descent of the river De Corbeau, passing successively the
Longwater, Little Vermillion, Birch Ple, Boutwell’s Vieu, Desert,
Summit, Long-rice, Allen’s, Johnston’s, and Leelina Lakes.—Junction
of the Shell River fork.—Encamp in a storm._

CHAPTER XII.

_Further descent of the De Corbeau.—Remarks on its general course
and character.—Junction of Leaf and Long Prairie Rivers.—The latter
pursued by the Pillagers in their wars against the Sessitons and
Yanktons.—Cause of the appellation of Mukkundwa.—Their robbery of
Berti, and assertion of a belligerent principle.—Forest trees of
the De Corbeau.—Monotony of its scenery.—Meeting with a Chippewa
hunter.—Arrival at the mouth of the river, and entrance of the
Mississippi.—Concourse of Indians assembled at that point.—Council
with them.—Sketch of the speeches of Grosse Gueule, Soangikumig,
and White Fisher.—Arrival of the Pierced Prairie.—First
intelligence of the breaking out of the Sauc War.—Close of the
Narrative.—Notice of the effects of the disuse of ardent spirits by
the men, and the observance of the Sabbath._

EXPLORATION
OF THE
ST. CROIX AND BURNTWOOD RIVERS.

CHAPTER I.

_Interval of the banks of the Mississippi, between the mouths of
the River De Corbeau and St. Croix, adverted to.—Plains above St.
Anthony’s Falls, agricultural.—Fact respecting the recession of
the bison.—Geological change in the character of the Mississippi,
in crossing 45 deg. parallel.—Fort Snelling.—Council.—Reach
the mouth of the St. Croix.—Picturesque character of St. Croix
Lake.—Traits of its natural history.—Encamp near a diminutive
kind of barrows.—“Standing Cedars.”—An Indian trader.—Green-stone
rock.—Falls of the St. Croix.—Traditionary account of an ancient
Indian battle, fought at these falls by the Chippewas, Saucs,
Foxes, and Sioux.—Wahb Ojeeg._

CHAPTER II.

_Ascent of the St. Croix above the falls.—Direct the burning of
illegal trading houses.—Snake River.—Its chief, Pezhicki.—Notices
of Snake River.—Its population and trade.—A foreign trading
company formerly located here.—Effects upon the Indian intercourse
of the present day.—Anecdote of the former mode of using rum
and tobacco.—Kettle Rapids.—Shell River.—A hunting party of
Chippewa boys.—Pokanokuning, or Yellow River.—Its population
and trade.—Notices of its natural history.—Shells.—Prairie
squirrel.—Widow of a murdered Indian, called the Little
Frenchman, declines having her son put to school.—Reach the
forks of the St. Croix.—Notice of the Namakagon Branch.—The
chief, Kabamappa.—Women’s Portage.—The Sturgeon Dam.—Kabamappa’s
village.—Upper St. Croix Lake._

CHAPTER III.

_Character of the St. Croix.—Its productiveness in wild
rice.—Population and trade.—Condition of the Indians, and their
prospect.—Portage to the Burntwood.—Marine sand formation.—Bass
lake.—Character of the Burntwood river.—Arrival at its discharge
into Fond du Lac of Lake Superior.—Indian friends.—Close of
the Narrative.—Brief general remarks on the condition of the
Chippewas.—Traits of character and government.—The institution of
the Totem.—Tale of the origin of White Fish._

APPENDIX

I. NATURAL HISTORY

II. INDIAN LANGUAGE

III. OFFICIAL REPORTS

NARRATIVE
OF AN EXPEDITION THROUGH THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI,
TO ITASCA LAKE.