Chapter XXIII: Appendix (7)

The ore used is the common sulphuret, with a foliated, glittering and cubical fracture. It occurs with scarcely any adhering gangue. Cubical masses of it are found, at some of the diggings, which are studded over with minute crystals of calcareous spar. These crystals, when examined, have the form of the dog-tooth spar. This broad, square-shaped, and square-broken mineral, is taken from _east and west leads_, is most easy to smelt, and yields the greatest per centum of lead. It is estimated to produce fifty per cent. from the log furnace, and about sixteen more when treated with a flux in the ash furnace.

Miners classify their ore from its position in the mine. Ore from _east and west leads_, is raised from clay diggings, although these diggings may be pursued under the first stratum of rock. Ore from _north and south leads_, is termed “sheet minerals,” and is usually taken from rock diggings. The vein or sheet stands perpendicularly in the fissure, and is usually struck in sinking from six to ten feet. The sheet varies in thickness from six or eight inches, in the broadest part, to not more than one. The great mass found at “Irish diggings,” was of this kind.

I observed among the piles of ore at Gratiot’s, the combination of zinc with lead ore, which is denominated _dry bone_. It is cast by as unproductive. Mr. B. Gratiot also showed me pieces of the common ore which had undergone desulphuration in the log furnace. Its natural splendor is increased by this process, so as to have the appearance of highly burnished steel. He also presented me some uniform masses of lead, recrystallized from a metallic state, under the hearth of the ash furnace. The tendency to rectangular structure in these delicate and fragile masses is very remarkable. Crystallization appears to have taken place under circumstances which opposed the production of a complete and perfect cube or parallelogram, although there are innumerable rectangles of each geometric form.

In the drive from Gratiot’s to Willow Springs, we saw a succession of the same objects that had formed the prominent features of the landscape from Galena. The platte mounds, which had appeared on our left all the morning, continued visible until we entered the grove that embraces the site of the springs. Little mounds of red earth frequently appeared above the grass, to testify to the labors of miners along this part of the route. In taking a hasty survey of some of the numerous excavations of Irish diggings, I observed among the rubbish small flat masses of a yellowish white amorphous mineral substance of great weight. I have not had time to submit it to any tests. It appears too heavy and compact for the earthy yellow oxide of lead. I should not be disappointed to find it an oxide of zinc. No rock stratum protrudes from the ground in this part of the country. The consolidated masses thrown up from the diggings, appear to be silicated limestone, often friable, and not crystalline. Galena is found in open fissures in this rock.

We reached the springs in the dusk of the evening, and found good accommodations at Ray’s. Distance from Galena thirty miles.

The rain fell copiously during the night, and on the morning (eighteenth) gave no signs of a speedy cessation. Those who travel ought often, however, to call to mind the remark of Xenophon, that “pleasure is the result of toil,” and not permit slight impediments to arrest them, particularly when they have definite points to make. We set forward in a moderate rain, but in less than an hour had the pleasure to perceive signs of it mitigating, and before nine o’clock it was quite clear. We stopped a short time at Bracken’s furnace. Mr. Bracken gave me specimens of organic remains, in the condition of earthy calcareous carbonates, procured on a neighbouring ridge. He described the locality as being plentiful in casts and impressions such as he exhibited, which appeared to have been removed from the surface of a shelly limestone. At Rock-branch diggings, I found masses of calcareous spar thrown from the pits. The surface appears to have been much explored for lead in this vicinity. I stopped to examine Vanmater’s lead. It had been a productive one, and affords a fair example of what are called east and west leads. I observed a compass standing on the line of the lead, and asked Mr. V. whether much reliance was to be placed upon the certainty of striking the lead by the aid of this instrument. He said that it was much relied on. That the course of the leads was definite. The present one varied from a due east and west line but nine minutes, and the lead had been followed without much difficulty. The position of the ore was about forty feet below the surface. Of this depth about thirty-six feet consisted of the surface rock and its earthy covering. A vein of marly clay, enveloping the ore, was then penetrated. A series of pits had been sunk on the course of it, and the earth and ore in the interstices removed, and drawn to the surface by a windlass and bucket. Besides the ore, masses of iron pyrites had been thrown out, connected with galena. In stooping to detach some pieces from one of these masses, I placed my feet on the verge of an abandoned pit, around which weeds and bushes had grown. My face was, however, averted from the danger, but on beholding it, I was made sensible that the least deviation from a proper balance would have pitched me into it. It was forty feet deep. The danger I had just escaped fell to the lot of Mr. B.’s dog, who, probably, deceived by the growth of bushes, fell in. Whether killed or not, it was impossible to tell, and we were obliged to leave the poor animal under a promise of Mr. V., that he would cause a windlass to be removed to the pit, to ascertain his fate.

At eleven o’clock we reached Mineral Point, the seat of justice of Iowa county. I delivered an introductory letter to Mr. Ansley, who had made a discovery of copper ore in the vicinity, and through his politeness, visited the locality. The discovery was made in sinking pits in search of lead ore. Small pieces of green carbonate of copper were found on striking the rock, which is apparently silico-calcareous, and of a very friable structure. From one of the excavations, detached masses of the sulphuret, blue and green mingled, were raised. These masses are enveloped with ochery clay.

In riding out on horseback to see this locality, I passed over the ridge of land which first received the appellation of “Mineral Point.” No digging was observed in process, but the heaps of red marly clay, the vigorous growth of shrubbery around them, and the number of open or partially filled pits, remain to attest the labour which was formerly devoted in the search for lead. And this search is said to have been amply rewarded. The track of discovery is conspicuously marked by these excavations, which often extend, in a direct line, on the cardinal points, as far as the eye can reach. Everywhere the marly clay formation appears to have been relied on for the ore, and much of it certainly appears to be _in situ_ in it. It bears no traces of attrition; and its occurrence in regular leads, forbids the supposition of its being an oceanic arrangement of mineral detritus. At Vanmater’s, the metalliferous clay marl is overlaid by a grayish sedimentary limestone. Different is the geological situation of what is denominated _gravel ore_, of which I noticed piles, on the route from Gratiot’s. This bears evident marks of attrition, and appears to have been uniformly taken from diluvial earth.

On returning to the village from this excursion, I found Mr. B. ready to proceed, and we lost no time in making the next point in our proposed route. A drive of five miles brought us to the residence of Colonel Dodge, whose zeal and enterprise in opening this portion of our western country for settlement, give him claims to be looked up to as a public benefactor. I here met the superintendent of the mines (Captain Legate), and after spending some time in conversation on the resources and prospects of the country, and partaking of the hospitalities politely offered by Colonel D. and his intelligent family, we pursued our way. The village of Dodgeville lies at the distance of four miles. Soon after passing through it some part of our tackle gave way, in crossing a gully, and I improved the opportunity of the delay to visit the adjacent diggings, which are extensive. The ore is found as at other mines, in regular leads, and not scattered about promiscuously in the red marl. Masses of brown oxide of iron were more common here than I had noticed them elsewhere. Among the rubbish of the diggings, fragments of hornstone occur. They appear to be, most commonly, portions of nodules, which exhibit, on being fractured, various discolorings.

Night overtook us before we entered Porter’s Grove, which is also the seat of mining and smelting operations. We are indebted to the hospitality of Mr. M., of whom my companion was an acquaintance, for opening his door to us, at an advanced hour of the evening. Distance from Willow Springs, twenty-five miles.

There is no repose for a traveller. We retired to rest at a late hour, and rose at an early one. The morning (19th) was hazy, and we set forward while the dew was heavy on the grass. Our route still lay through a prairie country. The growth of native grass, bent down with dew, nearly covered the road, so that our horses’ legs were continually bathed. The rising sun was a very cheerful sight, but as our road lay up a long ascent, we soon felt its wilting effects. Nine miles of such driving, with not a single grove to shelter us, brought us to Mr. Brigham’s, at the foot of the Blue Mound, being the last house in the direction to Fort Winnebago. The distance from Galena is sixty-four miles, and this area embraces the present field of mining operations. In rapidly passing over it, mines, furnaces, dwellinghouses, mining villages, enclosed fields, upland prairies (an almost continued prairie), groves, springs, and brooks, have formed the prominent features of the landscape. The impulse to the settlement of the country was first given by its mineral wealth; and it brought here, as it were by magic, an enterprising and active population. It is evident that a far greater amount of labor was a few years ago engaged in mining operations; but the intrinsic value of the lands has operated to detain the present population, which may be considered as permanent. The lands are beautifully disposed, well watered, well drained by natural streams, and easily brought into cultivation. Crops have everywhere repaid the labors of the farmer; and, thus far, the agricultural produce of the country has borne a fair price. The country appears to afford every facility for raising cattle, horses, and hogs. Mining, the cardinal interest heretofore, has not ceased in the degree that might be inferred from the depression of the lead market; and it will be pursued, with increased activity, whenever the purposes of commerce call for it. In the present situation of the country, there appear to be two objects essential to the lasting welfare of the settlements:—first, a title to their lands from Congress; second, a northern market for the products of their mines and farms. To these, a _third_ requisite may be considered auxiliary, namely, the establishment of the seat of territorial government at some point west of Lake Michigan, where its powers may be more readily exercised, and the reciprocal obligations of governor and people more vividly felt.

Mr. Brigham, in whom I was happy to recognise an esteemed friend, conducted us over his valuable plantation. He gave me a mass of a white, heavy metallic substance, taken as an accompanying mineral, from a lead of Galena, which he has recently discovered in a cave. Without instituting any examination of it but such as its external characters disclose, it may be deemed a native carbonate of lead. The mass from which it was broken weighed ninety or one hundred pounds. And its occurrence, at the lead, was not alone.

From the Blue Mound to Fort Winnebago is an estimated distance of fifty-six miles. The country is, however, entirely in a state of nature. The trace is rather obscure; but, with a knowledge of the general geography and face of the country, there is no difficulty in proceeding with a light wagon, or even a loaded team, as the Indian practice of firing the prairies every fall has relieved the surface from underbrush and fallen timber. After driving a few miles, we encountered two Winnebagoes on horseback, the forward rider having a white man in tie behind him. The latter informed us that his name was H., that he had come out to Twelve-mile Creek, for the purpose of locating himself there, and was in pursuit of a hired man, who had gone off, with some articles of his property, the night previous. With this relation, and a _boshu_[38] for the natives, with whom we had no means of conversing, we continued our way, without further incident, to Duck Creek, a distance of ten miles. We here struck the path, which is one of the boundary lines, in the recent purchase from the Winnebagoes. It is a deeply marked horse path, cutting quite through the prairie sod, and so much used by the natives as to prevent grass from growing on it; in this respect, it is as well-defined a landmark as “blazed tree,” or “saddle.” The surveyor appointed to run out the lines, had placed mile-posts on the route, but the Winnebagoes, with a prejudice against the practice which is natural, pulled up many, and defaced others. When we had gone ten miles further, we began to see the glittering of water through the trees, and we soon found ourselves on the margin of a clear lake. I heard no name for this handsome sheet of water. It is one of the four lakes, which are connected with each other by a stream, and have their outlet into Rock River, through a tributary called the Guskihaw. We drove through the margin of it, where the shores were sandy, and innumerable small unio shells were driven up. Most of these small species appeared to be helices. Standing tent-poles, and other remains of Indian encampments, appeared at this place. A rock stratum, dark and weather-beaten, apparently sandstone, jutted out into the lake. A little farther, we passed to the left of an abandoned village. By casting our eyes across the lake, we observed the new position which had been selected and occupied by the Winnebagoes. We often assign wrong motives, when we undertake to reason for the Indian race; but, in the present instance, we may presume, that their removal was influenced by too near a position to the boundary path.

We drove to the second brook, beyond the lake, and encamped.

Comfort in an encampment depends very much upon getting a good fire. In this we totally failed last night, owing to our having but a small piece of spunk, which ignited and burned out without inflaming our kindling materials. The atmosphere was damp, but not sufficiently cooled to quiet the ever-busy musquito. Mr. B. deemed it a hardship that he could not boil the kettle, so as to have the addition of tea to our cold repast. I reminded him that there was a bright moon, and that it did not rain; and that, for myself, I had fared so decidedly worse, on former occasions, that I was quite contented with the light of the moon and a dry blanket. By raising up and putting a fork under the wagon tongue, and spreading our tent-cloth over it, I found the means of insulating ourselves from the insect hordes, but it was not until I had pitched my musquito net within it that we found repose.

On awaking in the morning (20th), we found H., who had passed us the day before in company with the Winnebagoes, lying under the wagon. He had returned from pursuing the fugitive, and had overtaken us, after twelve o’clock at night. He complained of being cold. We admitted him into the wagon, and drove on to reach his camp at Twelve-mile Creek. In crossing what he denominated Seven-mile Prairie, I observed on our right a prominent wall of rock, surmounted with image-stones. The rock itself consisted of sandstone. Elongated water-worn masses of stone had been set up, so as to resemble, at a distance, the figures of men. The allusion had been strengthened by some rude paints. This had been the serious or the sportive work of Indians. It is not to be inferred hence, that the Winnebagoes are idolaters. But there is a strong tendency to idolatry in the minds of the North American Indians. They do not bow before a carved image, shaped like Dagon or Juggernaut; but they rely upon their guardian spirits, or personal manitos, for aid in exigencies, and impute to the skins of animals, which are preserved with religious care, the power of gods. Their medicine institution is also a gross and bold system of semi-deification connected with magic, witchcraft, and necromancy. Their jossakeeds are impostors and jugglers of the grossest stamp. Their wabenos address Satan directly for power; and their metais, who appear to be least idolatrous, rely more upon the invisible agency of spirits and magic influence, than upon the physical properties of the medicines they exhibit.

On reaching Twelve-mile Creek, we found a yoke of steers of H., in a pen, which had been tied there two days and nights without water. He evinced, however, an obliging disposition, and, after refreshing ourselves and our horses, we left him to complete the labours of a “local habitation.” The intermediate route to Fort Winnebago afforded few objects of either physical or mental interest. The upland soil, which had become decidedly thinner and more arenaceous, after reaching the lake, appears to increase in sterility on approaching the Wisconsin. And the occurrence of _lost rocks_ (primitive boulders), as Mr. B. happily termed them, which are first observed after passing the Blue Mound, becomes more frequent in this portion of the country, denoting our approach to the borders of the north-western primitive formation. This formation, we have now reason to conclude, extends in an angle, so far south as to embrace a part of Fox River, above Apukwa Lake.

Anticipated difficulties always appear magnified. This we verified in crossing Duck Creek, near its entrance into the Wisconsin. We found the adjoining bog nearly dry, and drove through the stream without the water entering into the body of the wagon. It here commenced raining. Having but four miles to make, and that a level prairie, we pushed on. But the rain increased, and poured down steadily and incessantly till near sunset. In the midst of this rain-storm we reached the fort, about one o’clock, and crossed over to the elevated ground occupied by the Indian Department, where my sojourn, while awaiting the expedition, was rendered as comfortable as the cordial greeting and kind attention of Mr. Kinzie, the agent, and his intelligent family could make it.

A recapitulation of the distances from Galena makes the route as follows, viz. Gratiot’s Grove, fifteen miles; Willow Springs, fifteen; Mineral Point, seven; Dodgeville, nine; Porter’s Grove, nine; Blue Mound, nine; Duck Creek, ten; Lake, ten; Twelve-mile Creek, twenty-four; Crossing of Duck Creek, eight; and Fort Winnebago, four; total, one hundred and twenty miles.

ERRATA.

Page 12, line 5. For Koginogumoc read Kaginogumoc.
“ 12, “ 12. For Courtonelle read Courtorielle.
“ 25, “ 4. For Feebyains read Jeebyains.
“ 27, “ 16. For troncard read broncard.
“ 28, “ 2. For and read at.
“ 36, “ 16. For Saskatchawino read Saskatchawine.
“ 41, “ 28. For Goulle read Gueule.
“ 44, “ 3 of Note. For t read not.
“ 60, “ 24. For these read there is.
“ 64, “ 34. For Ocant read Ocaut.
“ 66, “ 35. Do. Do.
“ 66, “ 18. For Jah read Tah.
“ 77, “ 7. For Guella read Gueule.
“ 81, “ 8. For broiled read boiled.
“ 96, “ 5. For separated read separately.
“ 103, “ 32. For and read or, and for country read county.
“ 106, “ 19. For Colamba migratons read Colomba migratoris.
“ 106, Note. For asmadonta read alasmadonta.
“ 115, “ 24. For Pipisagi read Tipisagi.

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| FOOTNOTES: |
| |
| [1] Detached pieces of calcareous tufa were found, imbedded in |
| the soil, at the mouth of the river Brule, in 1832. |
| |
| [2] Relation des traverses et des aventures d’un Marchand |
| Voyageur dans les territoires Sauvages de l’Amérique |
| Septentrionale, parti de Montreal, le 28 de Mai, 1783. Par |
| Jean Baptiste Pérault. |
| |
| [3] Wabidea. |
| |
| [4] He had returned with the Expedition, from Lake Superior. |
| |
| [5] It is believed that the American Fur Company, did, however, |
| submit such a proposition to the Directors of the Hudson’s |
| Bay Company in London, which was not acceded to by the |
| latter. |
| |
| [6] Or Pami-tascodiac. |
| |
| [7] From the data, above given, the descent of the Mississippi, |
| will average a fraction over five inches, per mile, a |
| result not essentially different from that furnished by the |
| data, which I submitted in my Narrative Journal in 1820, |
| but which was differently stated from haste and |
| inadvertence. For a prompt notice of the error, I feel |
| indebted to Hamilton Fulton, Esqr., who, soon after the |
| appearance of the work, wrote to my publishers, on the |
| subject. |
| |
| [8] Onzig, of the Chippewas. |
| |
| [9] So called in honor of Lieut. James Allen, U. S. A. who, on |
| his return down the Mississippi, was the first to explore |
| it. |
| |
| [10] A few years ago, a Mr. Beltrami, returning from the |
| settlement of Pembina, by the usual route of the traders |
| from Red Lake to Turtle Lake, published at New Orleans, a |
| small 12mo volume under the title of “La découverte des |
| sources du Mississippi, et de la Rivière Sanglante,” a work |
| which has since been expanded into two heavy 8vo volumes by |
| the London press. |
| |
| [11] Composed of the initials of the names of the gentlemen of |
| the party. |
| |
| [12] Among the dead, Wahb Ojeeg, Cadiwabida, or the Brèche, |
| Chingaba Wossin, and Mozobodo, are the Chippewa patriarchs |
| of modern days. |
| |
| [13] It has been stated in the “Preliminary Observations,” |
| that it became impracticable to visit these bands, during |
| the expedition of 1831. |
| |
| [14] Prairie du Chien. |
| |
| [15] St. Peter’s. |
| |
| [16] Family mark, or coat of arms—a kind of surname. |
| |
| [17] Report of the proceedings connected with the disputes |
| between the Earl of Selkirk and the North West Company, at |
| the assizes held at York in Upper Canada, Oct. 1818. |
| Montreal. 8vo. 564 p. |
| |
| [18] Genera Unio, Anodonta, alasmadonta. |
| |
| [19] This Chief attacked a Sioux war party, which imprudently |
| ventured in the vicinity, in the fall of this year, (1832,) |
| and achieved a victory, in which he killed forty persons, |
| and lost not a single man. |
| |
| [20] The total descent of the river at these falls, including |
| the rapids above and below them, is stated in my “Narrative |
| Journal of Travels to the Sources of the Mississippi,” at |
| 65 feet, an estimate which it is believed may exceed the |
| actual aggregate descent, and certainly does so, in the |
| hasty estimate which is given of the perpendicular fall. |
| |
| [21] I am not certain that I fully comprehend the brevity |
| of Mr. Eaton’s division of this formation of the English |
| geologists; but if I do so, he deduces from it, or from |
| its equivalent in American geology, 1. Second graywake, 2. |
| Calciferous sand-rock, 3. Silicious lime rock, 4. |
| Metalliferous limerock. |
| |
| [22] Alluding to a mound on an eminence at the mouth of the |
| river. |
| |
| [23] Vide Letter to his Excellency Gov. Porter, in the Appendix. |
| |
| [24] This island has been the scene of a subsequent murder, in |
| which an Indian was excited to kill his father-in-law. |
| |
| [25] The Crane is the totem of the reigning chiefs of the band |
| of Sault Ste. Marie. |
| |
| [26] The double vowel is here employed to indicate the long |
| sound of i, as i in machine. |
| |
| [27] Perhaps Aurikerees, and Ornapas. |
| |
| [28] Vide sequel. |
| |
| [29] See this reported, as modified by subsequent accounts. |
| |
| [30] Louis Dufault. |
| |
| [31] St. Peters. |
| |
| [32] Signature is expressed by the ceremony of making their |
| mark. |
| |
| [33] On my arrival at the Petite Corbeau’s village his people |
| fired a salute with ball, and after making further remarks |
| on the state of their affairs, he presented me a peace-pipe |
| and stem. |
| |
| [34] I enclose the copy of a letter on the subject of posts, |
| &c., addressed by me to Gen. S. M. Street, Agent at Prairie |
| du Chien. |
| |
| [35] I annex the speech of Mozobodo, chief of Torch Lake, on |
| this subject. |
| |
| [36] Buffalo, of Folle Avoine. |
| Chäcopi, of Snake River. |
| Nodin, of do. |
| Läbaince, of Yellow River. |
| The Little Frenchman, of Folle Avoine. |
| Keeshkitowug, of Yellow River. |
| |
| [37] The Indians personify the government in the agent, |
| commissioner, &c. they are addressing. |
| |
| [38] This term is in use by the Algic or Algonquin tribes, |
| particularly by the Chippewas. The Winnebagoes, who have no |
| equivalent for it, are generally acquainted with it, |
| although I am not aware that they have, to any extent, |
| adopted it. It has been supposed to be derived from the |
| French _bon jour_. |
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* * * * * *

Transcriber’s note:

- Blank pages have been removed.

- Obvious typographical errors have been silently corrected.

- Table of contents added.

- All errata have been applied.

- Tables split to fit column width.

- The book cover image was created by the transcriber and is placed
in the public domain.