Chapter XXII

AN OVERLAND JOURNEY FROM VALPARAISO TO GIBRALTAR, VIA THE ISTHMUS OF
PANAMA.

Departure from Valparaiso.--Coquimbo.--Caldera.--Cobija.--
Iquique.--Manufacture of saltpetre.--Arica.--Port d'Islay.--
_Medanos_, or wandering sand-hills.--Chola.--Pisco.--The Chincha
or Guano Islands.--Remarks respecting the Guano or Huanu beds.--
Callao.--Lima.--Carrion crows, the principal street-scavengers.--
Churches and Monasteries.--Hospitals.--Charitable institutions.--
Medical College.--National Library.--Padre Vigil.--National
Museum.--The Central Normal School.--Great lack of intellectual
energy.--Ruins of Cajamarquilla.--Chorillos.--Temple to the Sun
at Pachacamac.--River Rimac.--Amancaes.--The new prison.--
Bull-fights.--State of society in Peru.--The _Coca_ plant, and
the latest scientific examination respecting its peculiar
properties.--The _China_, or Peruvian-bark tree.--Departure from
Lima.--Lambajeque.--Indian village of Iting.--Paita.--Island of
La Plata.--Taboga Island.--Impression made by the intelligence
of Humboldt's death.--Panama.--"Opposition" Line.--Immense
traffic.--The Railway across the Isthmus.--Aspinwall.--
Carthagena.--St. Thomas.--Voyage to Europe on board the R.M.S.
_Magdalena_.--Falmouth.--Southampton.--London.--Rejoin the
_Novara_ at sea.--Arrival at Gibraltar. 337