Chapter XXXIII: Appendix (6)

+---------+-----------------------------+-------------------------------+
| Date. | Given as Fresh Provisions. | To whom. |
+---------+-----------------------------+-------------------------------+
| May 17 | 4 Ducks, 1 Goose | The Sick. |
| -- | 3 Gulls, 2 Redbills | The Fuegians. |
| 18 | 90 lbs. of Guanaco meat | All Hands. |
| 19 | 36 Fish | Sick & Fuegians. |
| 20 | 6 Shags, 2 Redbills | Sick. |
| 21 | 4 Shags, 2 Redbills | Fuegians. |
| 28 | 2 Shags | Sick. |
| 29 | 1 Goose, 3 Penguins | Fuegians. |
| June 7 | 7 Shags, 14 Fish | Sick. |
| 8 | 1 Albatross, 1 Bittern | Fuegians. |
| 17} |{5 Shags, 17 Redbills, 1} | |
| 18} |{Owl, 5 Pigeons, 2 } | All Hands.[229] |
| |{Hawks, 2 Geese } | |
| 19 | 6 Shags | Sick and Fuegians. |
| 20 | 16 Shags, 4 Ducks, 6 | |
| | Redbills | All Hands.[230] |
| 21 | 20 Shags, 9 Pigeons, 2 | |
| | Owls | All Hands. |
| 23 | 11 Shags, 6 Redbills, 3 | |
| | Hawks | All Hands.[231] |
| 24 | 5 Shags, 5 Redbills |}Sick and Fuegians. |
| 25 | 5 Shags, 3 Steamers |} |
+---------+-----------------------------+-------------------------------+

* * * * *

{592}

{593}

INDEX.

Adelaide (Tender) granted, 107
proceedings, 108, 110, 111
goes to look for San Sebastian Channel, 122-124
return to Port Famine, 140
sent to Cayetano Island, loses boat, 142-143
in Bougainville Harbour, 145
further proceedings, 149, 151, 182, 183
suffers from gale in River Plata, 191
detention, 192-196
goes to Magdalen Channel, 197, 212, 213, 217, 241, 248
proceedings, 251-257
at Chiloe, 258
proceedings, 258-268
repaired, 300
sails to Gulf of Penas, 301
arrives at Port Famine, 321
sails with Adventure to Monte Video and Rio de Janeiro, 322
particulars of her last cruise, 323-358
left as tender to flag-ship, 462.
Adventure, leaves River Plata, 1
at Sta. Elena, 2-6
anchors near Cape Fairweather, 7
enters Strait of Magalhaens, 12
passes First Narrow, 15
in Gregory Bay, 16
passes Second Narrow, 20
in Freshwater Bay, 22
at Port Famine, 25-84
in Laredo Bay, 85
in Gregory Bay, 85-104
at Rio de Janeiro, 105
goes to Santos, Sta. Catharina, Monte Video, thence to southward, 106,
107
re-enters Strait, in Possession Bay, 109
in Gregory Bay, 111
in Port Famine, 117
scurvy on board, 144
leaves Port Famine, 182
enters River Plata, Brazilian squadron, 186, 187
at Rio de Janeiro, 188
in pampero, 189, 190
at Port Desire, 192
in Sea-Bear Bay, 193
goes to Staten Land, 197
St. Martin Cove, 198
at Valparaiso Bay, 207
at Chiloe, 210
at Valparaiso, goes to Juan Fernandez, 302
at Concepcion, 308
enters Strait of Magalhaens, 311
in Playa Parda, 312
Fortescue Bay, 313
reaches Port Famine, 315
departs finally, 321
at Rio de Janeiro, 322
arrival in England, 462.
Admiralty Sound, glaciers, weather, Indians, passages, description of
shores, 56-59.
Agnes Islands, rocks, dangers, 380.
Agueros, boundaries of Chiloe, 271
description of Piraguas, 285
quoted on climate, 294, 295
account of missionary voyages, 327-329.
Ainsworth, Mr., goes to survey Port San Antonio, drowned, burial-place,
63-64.
Aldunate, takes Chiloe, Yntendente of the province, 299
anecdote, 300
goes in Adventure to Valparaiso, 302.
Alerse, good qualities of wood, difficult to obtain, 282-283.
_Anas specularis_, 117.
Ancon Sin Salida (of Sarmiento), 262
Adelaide there, weather, traced, 347.
Andres San, canal (of Sarmiento), disappointment, 339.
_Anser Nigricollis_, 352.
Anson, Juan Fernandez, 307.
Antonio San, Port, Cordova's account, vegetation, 126
humming-birds,
{594}
weather, 127, 128
detention there, 133-135.
_Apterodytes Magellanica_, 5.
Araucanian Indians, dress, 309
meeting, 310, 311.
_Araucaria imbricata_, 311.
_Argonauta tuberculosa_, found in maw of dolphin, containing _Octopus
Ocythoe_, 106, 107.
Ariel Rocks, supposed, search for, meeting of currents gave rise to false
report of their existence, 460, 461.
Asses' ears, 12.
Aymond Mount, 12.

Barbara Channel, islands, rocks, tides, 256.
Barbara Santa, Port, 164
oak-beam, supposed Wager's, found, 165
mountains, island, productions, wigwams, weather, 166, 167.
Barnevelt Islands, 436.
Barometer, 41
observations for height of Mount Tarn, 42, 43
for weather, 144, 149
before pampero, 189, 191
observations, 202, 203, 210
for height of Mountain de la Cruz, 244
attention to, 371
changes, 426, 427, 429, 465, 466, 467.
Beagle, leaves Monte Video, 1
at Sta. Elena, 7
approaches Strait of Magalhaens, 13
passes First Narrow, 15
at Gregory Bay, 16
at Port Famine, 25
prepared to go to West part of Straits, and sails, 26, 28
anxiety for, arrival, 65
proceedings, currents, squalls, doubles Cape Froward, leaves Port
Gallant, Cape Tamar, danger, difficulties, dangerous service, 68-80
sails from Pert Famine for Monte Video, 85
goes thence to Rio de Janeiro, 105
ordered to Port Desire, 108
protracted absence, arrival at Port Famine, 119
sails again, 129
return, 151
proceedings during absence, dangers off Parallel Peak, sufferings of
crew, at Port Santa Barbara, Port Henry, Port Otway, perilous
situation in Channel's mouth, sufferings of crew, at Port Otway for
recovery, 154-181
injured during pampero in River Plata, 190
sails thence, 191
at Port Desire, 192
in Sea-Bear Bay, 195
proceedings from, 212
to, arrival at Chiloe, 250
sails for Tierra del Fuego, 300
at Rio de Janeiro, 322
proceedings during absence, weather, anchorage, gales, boat stolen,
critical accident, in Good Success Bay, at Monte Video, returns to
England, 360-462.
Bell Cape, tide-race, rocks, 448, 456.
Bellaco Rock, unsuccessful search for, 109
found and examined, 120.
Black River, branch of San Tadeo River, 328
rapid currents, obstructions, shores, glaciers, 329.
Blanco Cape, shoals off, 108.
Boat upset, lives lost, 63, 64
boat stolen, 142, 143
yawl lost, 180
another boat lost, 193
boats in danger, 231
whale-boat stolen near Cape Desolation, 391
basket-like substitute described, 392
boat building, 407
finished, 423.
Borja Bay, weather, williwaws, 247, 312.
Bougainville, 10, 35, 39, 69
memorial, 70, 71
on Patagonians, 99, 101.
Bougainville Harbour, 122, 145, 146.
Breaker Bay, 373, 374.
Buckland Mount, 51.
Bueno Port, its excellence, productions, 340, 341.
Burney Mount, 260.
Bynoe, Mr., excursion, 214
volunteer in Adelaide, 217, 241
meets Indians, 255
volunteers again in Adelaide, 301, 359.
Byron, Commodore, notice of Sedger River, 38
of Patagonians, 99
of cave near Port Otway, 323
endeavour to trace steps of his party after loss of Wager, account of
circumstances connected with it, 324-329
his description of Montrose Island, 325.
Bowen, Mr., ascends Mountain de la Cruz, 69.

Campana Island, bad weather, danger of Beagle, 161, 163.
Candish, arrival in the Strait, 33
conduct to settlers, gives the name of Port Famine, 34.
Canquena, or Cagge, 288, 289. (Note.)
{595}
Carlos San, de Chiloe, 249
anchorage, position, 274
buildings, woods, 275
piraguas, 284-286.
Cascade Bay, 219.
Cavia, by some called hare, 5.
Centurion, 303, 304, 307.
Chama, 306.
Channel's mouth, anchorage, weather, surf, 178
desolate scene, perils, squalls, 179
inlets near, gales, tides, 330.
Chanticleer at Monte Video, 187
at St. Martin Cove, 198
sails thence, 205.
_Charadrius rubecola_, 41.
Charles Islands, surveyed, 315.
Chiloe, position, extent, population, 271, 272
government, troops, 273
cultivation, peasantry, 276
manners, morals, 277
schools, language, produce, 278
manufactures, exports, imports, 279
varieties of wood, 280, 281
log roads, 283
ploughs, 286
soil, 287
forced contributions, birds, 288
shell-fish, 290
mode of cooking, 291
anecdote, 293
climate, 294-296
struggles against Chile, 298.
Cholgua (_Mytilus Magellanicus_, Lamarck), 290.
Choro (_Mytilus choras_, Molina), 290.
Cockburn Channel, 254.
_Coleoptera_, a few species at Sta. Elena, 6.
_Concholepas Peruviana_, used as drinking cups, 167.
Condor, size, accounts of Molina and Humboldt, 185.
_Crepidula_, one species at Sta. Elena, 6.
Cruz, de la, mountain, ascended, 69
memorials found, 70, 71
ascended again, 243, 244
its height, 314.
_Cygnus Anatodoides_, 359.

_Dasyprocta_ (agouti), 5.
_Dasypus Minutus_, of D'Azara, 5.
Deer, on Point Sta. Anna, 48
track near Obstruction Sound, 353
many more observed, 354
supposed of a novel species, 355.
Desire, Port, examined, 120, 192, 195, 349
quince found there, tides, 460.
Diego Ramirez Islets, 434
climate, 435.
Diego San, Cape, strong tide, 453
coast near, 456.
Dislocation Harbour, 364.
Dogs, 46, 52, 62, 76, 89, 137
fine one (Fuegian), 148, 216
small-sized, 238
at Juan Fernandez, 304
fine Fuegian dog, 444
one like young lion, 448.
Doris Cove, weather, 406.
Dungeness Point, 12.

Eagle Bay, 35, 37, 48.
Easter Bay, 348, 349.
Elena, Sta. Port, arrival there, coast, 2
bad weather, fossil oyster-shells, 4
animals and birds, 5
scarcity of fish, trees, traces of natives, departure, 6.
Englefield Island, 225.
Estevan San, channel of, tides, 265.
Evangelists, or Isles of Direction, 156.
Eyre, Sir George, Sound, glaciers, whales, seal, icebergs, 337.

Fairweather, Cape, gale near, singular error, 7
abundance of fish, 8, 9
departure from, 9, 120.
Falkner, the Jesuit, description of Patagonians, 86, 87
funeral ceremonies, 113
graves, 196.
Famine, Port, 26
former Spanish colony, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33
named by Candish, 34
shells, 37
animals, birds, 38
fishing, 39
preparations and departure, 84
re-visited, 117
events there during absence, 118
weather, 119
winter, 142
floods, lightning, 144
scurvy, 145
effects of weather, 149, 150
Beagle there, 216
Adventure there, 315
finally quitted, 321.
Felipe, San, Spanish settlement under Sarmiento, Viedma, 31, 32
abandoned, now Port Famine, 34.
_Felis pajaros_, 117.
Fire, at Port Sta. Elena, 3
at Port Famine, 83
boat and sheds destroyed by Fuegians, 118,
at Port Desire, 193, 194
in Gregory Bay, 213
traces of near Level Bay, 336.
{596}
Fitz-Roy, Robert, Commander, appointed to Beagle, 188
proceedings at Port Desire, 195
explores Jerome Channel, 221
scenery, 222
Indian Channel, 224
narrow escape, 232
at Port Gallant, 240
search for passage into Skyring Water, 248
at Chiloe, 250
leaves San Carlos, 360
goes to relieve party in distress, 369
excursion to Cape Gloucester, 376, 377
search for lost boat, 393-404
remarks on Tierra del Fuego, 410
excursion in boat, bad weather, gales, 418
proceedings and return on board, 419, 423
further proceedings to return to England, 423, 462.
Fortescue Bay, 132, 313, 315.
Foster, Henry, Captain, meeting with, 187
arrangements, 188
in St. Martin Cove, 198
sails thence, 205
some account of his death, 206.
Fox, at Sta. Elena, 5
curious chase of one, 193.
Freshwater Bay, 22
vegetation, 25.
Freyre, attacks and takes Chiloe, 298, 299.
Froward, Cape, 69
described, 145.
Fuegians, first seen, wigwams, numbers, 23
dress, food, character, 24
near Cape Rowlett, manners, curious anecdote, 53, 54
weapons, skill, 55
barter in Magdalen Channel, 61
conduct, 62
in Harbour of Mercy, 74
description of persons, ornaments, food, habitations, domestic ties,
affection, 75, 76, 77
at Port San Antonio, 128
behaviour, appearance, cunning, 129
in Warrington Cove, 135
visits, canoes, 137
carving, 138
natives at Port Famine, mischievous, 141
near Point Santa Anna, 147
troublesome, 148
met again, 216
near Otway Water, 226
paint, cunning, 227
anecdote, 234
abuse, 238
in Fortescue Bay, plank canoes, 'Pecheray,' anecdote, 313
curious circumstances, 315
at Port Famine, misconduct, 316
precautions, quarrel, 317, 318
driven away, caution, 319, 320
met by Adelaide's boat's crew, curious notices, habits, theft, 342, 344
few in number, 345
at Landfall Island, 367
conduct to party in distress, arms, bird-catching, 370
near Otway Bay, living among tame seals, 372
traces on Noir Island, 388
steal whale-boat, 391
met with, 394
further meetings, boat's gear found, 395
various incidents connected with natives, 396, 397
thieves' family seized, 398
another party met, 399
guides escape, 401
other meetings, 402, 403
three children left on board Beagle, 404
two of them restored, natives in March Harbour, young man detained, 409
disturbance in March Harbour, 412
skirmish, 413
their strength and daring, 'York-minster,' 415
'Boat memory,' 'Fuegia Basket,' 416
conduct of Fuegians on board to other natives, 427, 428
'Yapoos' mode of fishing, 428
natives near Nassau Bay, skins, wigwams, 429
without arms, tractable, 430
in Murray Narrow, large wigwam, food, 440
'Jemmy Button,' 445
in Valentyn Bay, dogs, 448.
Fury Harbour, wreck of Saxe Coburg, 66
described, 380
examined, 384
rocks, 386.

Gabriel Channel, 49
weather, 50
squalls called 'williwaws,' 59.
_Gadus_, 9.
Gales, usual direction, 162, 163
observations, 235
usual course of, 391.
Gallant, Port, 131, 132
humming-birds, natives, 134, 135, 220, 241.
Gallegos River, 9
tides, 120.
Geology of country near Port Sta. Elena, 3
Cape Fairweather, 7, 8
Mount Sarmiento, 27
Mount Tarn, 44
Port Waterfall, 52
Admiralty Sound, 59
Gabriel Channel, 60
near Second Narrow, 112
Cape Froward and Port Gallant, 131
Mount Maxwell, 136
Tower Rock, 192
Cape Horn, St. Martin Cove, 204
Juan Fernandez, 305
Grafton Islands, 375
Cape Castlereagh, Doris Cove, 410.
Gilbert Islands, Doris Cove, 406.
Glaciers, 51, 57, 140, 237, 252, 337, 339, 442.
Gloucester, Cape, 373, 374
excursion to, weather, 376
natives, produce, 377.
Graves, Mr., goes in Hope, 28
proceedings, 45, 46, 47
{597}
surveys Lomas Bay, 63
sails again in Hope, 65
returns, 80
appointed to Adelaide tender, 107
in Gregory Bay, 110, 111
in Port Gallant, 134, 136
detached, 142
loss of boat, 142, 143
at Bougainville Harbour, 145, 146
with Patagonians, 149, 151
at Port Gallant, 241
honourable trait, 242
journal, 251-257
near Cape Upright, 258
goes to Chiloe, 268.
Gregory Bay, Beagle joins Adventure there, 16
gales, mirage, Patagonians, 85
scenery, productions, fires, 111
natives, 183.
Guanacoes, 3, 4, 5
near Cape Orange, 15
in Gregory Bay, 111
bezoar-stone, 117
mode of hunting them, 151
unusual chase, 193
near Sea-Bear Bay, 194
very large ones seen near Windhond Bay, 439
numerous near Aguirre Bay, 446.
Guayaneco Islands, 167, 331.
Guyot Duclos, 10, 22
notice of natives, 99
skirmish with natives, 320.

Henry, Port, 159
productions, scenery, 160, 161.
Hermite Island, remarkable peaks, survey, 207.
Hope, Mount, 56, 57, 58.
Hope, decked boat, 26
crew, sails on survey, 28
proceedings, meets Fuegians in Brenton Sound, 45, 46
passage back to Port Famine, 47
repaired, 48
goes to Eagle Bay, into Gabriel Channel, 49
further proceedings, 50-63
sails again, 65
goes with Captain King, 80
further proceedings, 82.
Horn, Cape, ascent of highest point, memorial left, 432
weather, 433.
Horn Island, 432.
_Hymenoptera_, at Port Sta. Elena, 6.

Icebergs, field of ice, 175, 337, 442.
Icy Sound, glaciers, avalanches, 140.
Ildefonsos, 424.
Indian Channel, bivouac, weather, 223.
Island Harbour, 333
weather, 334.

Jerome Channel, 221
scenery, 222.
Jesuit Sound, explored, 329.
Juan Fernandez, 302
establishment, productions, 303
dogs, goats, fish, buccaneers, 304
botany, trees, fruits, 305, 306
shells, coral, anchorage, 306
animals, seals, birds, 307
excursions, thermometer, 308.

Kater Peak, ascended, 200, 201, 202
again, 433, 434.
Kelp, or sea-weed, its great use, 13
immense growth, 363.
Kelp fish, excellent food, 199.
Kelly Harbour, 175.
Kempe, Lieut., excursions, 214, 409
in chase of Fuegians, 412, 413
promptness, 423, 432
left in charge of Beagle, 437
vigilance, 445, 449.
Kempe Harbour, 218.
Kirke, Mr., goes in Adelaide, 217, 241, 242
ascends Mount Skyring, 253
near Cape Tamar, 258
sails again in Adelaide, 301
examines the Channel's Mouth, 330
zealous exertion, 333
examines Sir George Eyre Sound, 337
further proceedings, 338, 339
traces Canal of the Mountains, 347, 348
Worsley Sound, 349
disappointments, 350, 359
further examinations, 354-357.

Latitude Bay, 368
advantages, 370.
Laura Basin, 375.
Leeward Bay, 347.
Lennox Harbour, 437
natives, 449.
_Lepidoptera_, a few species at Port Sta. Elena, 6.
_Lievre pampa_, of D'Azara, 5.
Lizards, 6.
Lobos, Port, 2.
Lomas Bay, 63.
Loyasa's voyage quoted, 96.
Lucia Santa, Cape, coast near, 157.
Lyndsey, Serjeant, death of, 176
burial, 177.

Magalhaens, Strait of, voyage to explore, under Don Antonio de Cordova, 9
account of bad weather, confirmed by Wallis and Carteret, 10
difference in spelling name, 11
vegetation of Strait, 22
animals, 23
scenery, 51
{598}
whales, &c., 131
climate, 141
re-passed, 186
entered again, 311
finally quitted, 322.
Magdalen Channel, 60
anchorage, scenery, 61
examined, 251
directions, 252.
Magnetic influence, unusual, 199, 200, 204, 382, 383, 384, 385.
Maire Le, Strait, tides in, 455, 456.
Malaspina, at Port Sta. Elena in 1798, 2.
March Harbour, 408, 424.
Maria, a Patagonian, first interview with, 18
at Gregory Bay, 85, 86
visits ships, 88
obtains guanaco meat for them, interview with on shore, 89
acts as priestess, 90
cupidity, 92
'toldo,' 93
disappointment, 104
cordial meeting with, presents, 114
importunity, anecdote, 115
scene in toldo, 116
re-visited, 183.
Marian Cove, 71.
Martin St. Cove, 198
weather, ascent of Kater Peak, 200, 201, 202
gales and williwaws, 203.
Maxwell, Port, 199.
Mesier Channel, entrance to, 331
entered by Adelaide, 333
anchorages, shores, trees, 334
scarcity of inhabitants, 345.
Millar, Alexander Mr., death of, 321.
Misery Mount, 234.
Mitchell, Lieut., activity, 301, 317, 319.
Montes Tres, Cape, 167, 168, 169, 322.
Morton Island, 420
tide between it and Gold-dust Isle, 421.
Mountains, canal of the, 347.
Morrion El, 238.
_Muraena_, near Cape Fairweather, 9.
Murray, Mr, accident, 364
goes to E. end of Landfall Islands, 368
in distress, 369
goes to Euston Bay, 375-378
goes to Cape Desolation, bad weather, 390
severe gales, return anxiously looked for, sends coxswain back in
basket-like canoe, 391
loss of whale-boat, 393
search for her, 401, 402, 403
goes away again, 407
penetrates into channels leading from Christmas Sound, 417
goes to head of Nassau Bay, 427
discovers Beagle Channel, 429
natives, 430
goes towards Cape Good Success, 437
extract from journal, natives near Cape Graham, difficulties, 446, 447,
448.
Muscle Bay, 332.
_Murex_ at Port Sta. Elena, 6
(_Magellanicus_) brought up by lead, 13
found in Eagle Bay, 37.
_Mytilus_, at Port Sta. Elena, 6
at Port Gallant, 133.
_Mytilus choras_, at Chiloe 290.
_Mytilus Magellanicus_, at Chiloe, 290.

Narborough, Sir John, quoted, 4, 5, 25, 76
notice of Patagonians, 99, 123, 192.
Narrow, English, described, 335, 336.
Narrow, First, passage attempted, 14
cleared, tides, 15
passed again, 110, 111
tide-race before filtering, 322.
Narrow, Guia, tides, 265
passed by Adelaide, 340.
Narrow, Kirke, 347
prospect after leaving it, 348
tides, errors, wider channel, 349
plan of Narrow, singular eddies, 356, 357.
Narrow, Murray, tides, shores, natives, woods, 439, 440
channels near, mountains, anecdote, wigwam, 441
tides, glaciers, 442
disadvantages, 443.
Narrow, Second, passed, 20, 85.
Narrow, Shag, 139.
Narrow of San Benito, 264.
Narrow, White, intricate, 347
agreeable prospect, 348.
Nassau Bay, 425
master passes through it, 429
formerly Bay of St. Francis, errors in charts, 433
further examined, 438.
Nautical remarks, gales on the eastern coast of Patagonia, entrance of
Strait of Magalhaens, 463
Staten Island, New Year Islands, 464
passage round Cape Horn, barometer, 465
barometer off Cape Horn, 466, 467
directions for passage through Strait, 468
anchorages, 469, 470
advantage of passing Strait from Pacific to Atlantic, 471, 472
further directions, 473, 474, 475.
Neesham Bay, Indians near, 267.
Negro Cape, 21, 22, 24, 215.
{599}
New Year Sound, 419, 420.
Nodales, voyage of the, 7, 99
Bellaco Rock, 109
San Sebastian Channel, 122, 123
discovered Sea-Bear Bay, 193.
Noir Island, roadstead, penguins, 387
Tower Rocks, 388.
North Cove, 382.

Obstruction Sound, tides, 352
remarks, 352.
_Oidemia Patachonica_, 35.
Oliver Islands, 351.
_Ophidium_, near Cape Fairweather, 8.
Orange Bay, 426, 427
anchorage, productions, 430.
_Orthoceratite_, fossil resembling an, Rocky Bay, 321.
Osorio Pedro, at Chiloe, Byron, 'Desecho,' 327.
_Ostrea Edulis_, at Chiloe, 291.
_Ostrea_, fossil at Port Sta. Elena, 4.
Otway, Port, 169
weather, woods, 170
trees, soil, birds, 323.
Otway Water, 224.

Pampero, 189, 190.
Parallel Peak, 163, 164.
Patagonians, near Gregory Bay, 16
size, friendliness, dress, weapons, three go in Adventure to Cape
Negro, native names, 20
appearance described, 21
met again in Gregory Bay, animals with them, 85
account of various tribes, 86, 87
go on board ships, intoxication, 88
trade, 89
religious ceremony, 90, 91
toldos, 92
utensils, 93
tomb, father's grief, women, occupations, 94
parental affection, anecdotes, 95
their size, 96
former accounts compared, 97, 98, 99, 100, 101, 102
character, 103
contempt for Fuegians, 104
fires, 110
tomb in Gregory Bay re-visited, 112
natives arrive, traffic, 113
cordial meeting, 114
natives on board, 116
in Pecket Harbour, hunting, 151, 152
seen again, toldos, 183
Portuguese sailors living with them, native language, 184
observed again in passing Gregory Bay, 321.
Patagonian Cavy, 5.
_Patella deaurata_, at Port Sta. Elena, 6.
_Patella trochi-formis_, 13.
Paul's, St., dome of, 169.
Pecheray, Fuegian expression, anecdotes, 313, 314, 315
mentioned again, 320.
Pecket Harbour, 151, 183, 184, 213.
_Pecten vitreus_, in Eagle Bay, 37.
Penguins, 387
mode of feeding young, 388.
_Phalacrocorax Imperialis_, 359.
_Phoca Jubata_, food of Fuegians, 24.
Pico, 292.
Pillar, Cape, 79, 311, 361
mountains near, 375
tide, 455.
Pinoleo, Araucanian Cacique, account of meeting near Concepcion,
daughters, their dress, ornaments, reception from him, his
appearance, 309
followers, intoxication, 310.
Pinto, General, Director of Chile, 209.
Piure, remarkable appearance, 292.
Plata, River, Brazilian Squadron, confusion, mistake, 186
severe 'pampero,' effects, 189, 190
gales, 191
currents, 461.
Playa Parda, 312.
_Polyborus Novae Zealandiae_, 143.
Possession, Cape, 12
tides, 13, 15
detention, 109
weather, 110.
_Psittacus smaragdinus_, near Port Famine, 39.

Quintin San, Sound, 174, 175
Adelaide there, 324.
Quod, Cape, 247.

Roldan Campana de, 27.
Rundle Passage, 322.
Rupert Island, rocks, weather, 246.

Saddle Island, magnetic, needle much affected, scenery, whales,
kelp-fish, 199.
Santiago, journey to, 207, 208
weather, 210.
Sarmiento, 26
sent to look for Sir Francis Drake, enters Strait, 29
sails to form establishments, 30
{600}
marks out city, colonists' sufferings, goes to Rio de Janeiro, 31
disappointments, taken to England, 32
his account of natives near Useless Bay, 125
Campana de Roldan, 130
discovery of Gulf of Trinidad, 158, 159
his 'Abra' opposite Playa Parda, 312
quoted, 340.
Sarmiento channel, passed, 341
discoveries, 342
course followed, 346.
Sarmiento Mount, first appearance, 26
height, 27, 28
seen again, 130, 147, 252.
Saxe Cobourg, Prince of, wrecked in Fury Harbour, 66
crew's sufferings, saved by Beagle, 67.
Sea-Bear Bay, 6
described by Nodales, 193
animals, birds, 195.
Seal, teaching their young to swim, 422.
Sebastian San, Channel supposed, noticed by Nodales, 122
various voyagers' opinions, 123
vain search, 458.
Sedger River, mouth changes, remarks, 37
trees, 38.
Shags (corvorants), nests on trees in Courtenay Sound, 404.
Sholl, Robert Lieut., interview with natives, 23, 24, 65
death of, 121.
Skyring, Lieut., 77, 78, 165
takes command of Beagle, 182
superseded, 188
takes command of Adelaide, goes to survey Magdalen, Cockburn, and
Barbara Channels, reaches Port Gallant, 241
part company near Cape Upright, 249
meets Indians, 256
near Cape Upright, 258
searches for 'Ancon Sin Salida' of Sarmiento, 261
natives, 262
tides, 263
weather, 264
his journal, 266
sails for gulf of Penas, 301
journal of proceedings, 323
examines River San Tadeo, 327
proceedings, 328
returns to Adelaide, 329
illness, 333
officers' proceedings, 346
resumes duty, 347
disappointments, 350, 351
excellence of charts, 386.
Skyring Mount, ascent, memorial, 253, 254
described, strong local attraction, effect on compasses, 382, 383
view from it, 383.
Skyring Water, 228
tides, land, birds, 229.
Skunk, or Zorillo, 184, 185.
Smyth Channel, 259
fish, 260
survey, 261.
Snakes at Port Sta. Elena, 6.
Snowy Sound, 237.
Speedwell Bay, abundance of wild-fowl, crabs, potatoes, trees, 332.
Spencer Cape, 431, 435.
Steamer-Duck, or Race-Horse, 35, 36.
Stewart Harbour described, its advantages, 406.
Stokes, Pringle Captain, commands Beagle, 2, 18, 26, 28
rescues crew of shipwrecked vessel, 65
journal, 67 to 80
dangerous cruise, 73
skill and daring, 77
rides to Patagonian toldos, 92
ordered to Port Desire, 108
arrival at Port Famine, 119
proceedings during absence, 121
sails again, 124
describes Bougainville Harbour, 146
returns to Port Famine, sufferings, illness, 150, 151
death, 153
unfinished journal, 154-181.
Stokes, Mr. goes to explore Jerome Channel, 221, 225
narrow escape, 232, 233
examines Hope Harbour, 382
Fury Harbour, 384, 445.
Success Good, Cape, 445, 448
shores, anchorage in bay, swell, 450
gales, 451.

Tadeo San, River, 323, 327, 328.
Tamar Cape, weather off, 72
Beagle in Bay of, 73
returns three times, 74.
Tarn, Mr., 4
excursion to Eagle Bay, 35
ascends Mount Tarn, 40, 42
interview with natives, 61
summit of Table Land, 111
Laredo Bay, 117
in Adelaide, 143, 149
with Patagonians, 151
signal-fire, guanacoes, 194.
Tarn Mount, ascent of, 40
temperature, observations, descent, 42, 43.
Teal found at Port Sta. Elena, 5.
Tower Rock near Port Desire, remarkable, Narborough's description, 192.
Tower Rocks, off Noir Island, 388.
Tower, rock like, near Aguirre Bay, 447.
Trinidad Sanctisima, Golfo de la, 158.
Tres Puntas Cape, 158, 161.
{601}
_Trochilus_ at Juan Fernandez, 307.

Ulloa, Don J. Juan, y Don A. de, their account of the anchorage at Juan
Fernandez, 306.
'Ultimo Viage al estrecho de Magallanes,' quoted, 10, 27, 57, 101.
Upright, Cape, 71
bay, 155
weather, 258.
Useless Bay, 124
natives near, 125.

Valdivia de, Don Pedro, founds cities, 269
Indians destroy them, settlers migrate, 270.
Valentyn Hay, natives, 448.
Valparaiso, 207, 210.
Vicente San, Bay, 453.
Viedma Andres de, at San Felipe, 32
wrecked, return, distresses, 33, 34.
Video Monte, departure from, 1
return to, and sail from, 105
revisited, meeting with Captain Foster at, 187
gales in leaving, 191
return there, 322
finally quitted, 462.
Virgins Cape, 12, 105, 109.

Wager, loss of, 324 to 327, 331.
Warrington cove, 135
geology, 136
productions, 139.
Waterfall Bay, weather, tides, 334.
Waterfall, Port, 51-52.
Weddell's Leading Hill, 418, 421.
Whales, dead, mistaken for rocks, 107, 380.
White Kelp Cove, fish, birds, 335.
William, Cape, 158.
Wickham Lieut., takes command of Hope, 28
meets Indians, 45
returns to Port Famine, 47
in Gregory Bay, 111
obtains curious birds, 117
at Port Famine, 141
goes to Patagonians, 149
ill, 152
goes overland to Port Desire, 195
at Santiago, 207, 210.
Williwaws, 50, 203.
Wilson, Mr., goes to Landfall Island, 368, 369, 376
good drawings, 383
natives, 409, 413
sketches of coast, 436.
Woodcock Mount, 139-140.
Wreck found in Port Sta. Elena, 2
in Fury Harbour (of Saxe Cobourg), 66, 67.

Xavier San Island, 176
examined further, 329.
Xavier Port, woods, water, birds, 176.
Xaultegua, Gulf of, curious islet, frost and snow, 247.

York-Minster of Cook, noticed, 407
mark for March Harbour, 408, 411.
'Yungue' (Juan Fernandez), height, woods, squalls, 302, 303.

Zorillo, 184, 185.

END OF VOL. I.

* * * * *

LONDON: Printed by J. L. COX and SONS, 75, Great Queen Street, Lincoln's-Inn-Fields.

* * * * *

NOTES

[1] Excepting one for signals.

[2] Twelve additional seamen having been ordered, by the Admiralty, for the Adelaide schooner.

[3] On the north side of the river Plata.

[4] Commonly called Magellan. See p. 11.

[5] _Dasyprocta patachonica_: it is the _Patagonian cavy_ of Dr. Shaw, and Pennant's Quadr., tab. 39, and the _lievre pampa_ of D'Azara. M. Desmarest thinks that if the teeth were examined it would form a new genus, for which he proposes the name of _Dolichotis_ (Ency. Meth. Mamm. p. 359). At present he has, from its external character, placed it amongst the genus _Dasyprocta_ (agouti). The only one that was taken was not preserved, which prevented me from ascertaining the fact.

[6] _Dasypus minutus_, Desm. _Tatou pichiy_, or _tatou septieme_ of D'Azara, &c. &c. It has seven bands.

[7] A similar error was made by one of the ships of the fleet under Loyasa in the year 1525. The Nodales also, in their description of the coast, mention the similarity of appearance in the two capes, Virgins and Fairweather. "Y venido de mar en fuera a buscar la tierra facilmente podian hacer de Rio de Gallegos el Cabo de Virgenes," (and in making the land Cape Virgins may easily be mistaken for the river Gallegos).--Viage de los Nodales, p. 53.

[8] Some of the specimens of the clay strata consist, according to Dr. Fitton, who has kindly examined my collection, of a white marl not unlike certain varieties of the lower chalk; and of a clay having many of the properties of fuller's earth. The pebbles on the beach consist of quartz, red jasper, hornstone, and flinty slate, but do not contain any stone resembling chalk flint.

[9] Dr. Fitton considers these masses of clay to bear a resemblance to the upper green sand of England.

[10] Ultimo Viage al Estrecho de Magallanes, part ii. p. 298.

[11] A hill on the north shore of Possession Bay, having near it, to the westward, four rocky summits, which, from a particular point of view, bear a strong resemblance to the cropped ears of a horse or ass. These are described less briefly in the Sailing Directions.

[12] Flowing into the strait from the east towards the west.

[13] Fucus giganteus.

[14] Usually called by seamen 'kelp.'

[15] Columns of smoke rising from large fires.

[16] Berberis.

[17] Previous to the expedition quitting England, I had provided myself with medals, to give away to the Indians with whom we might communicate, bearing on one side the figure of Britannia, and on the reverse George IV. "Adventure and Beagle," and "1826."

[18] Narborough, p. 67.

[19] Ultimo Viage, p. 120.

[20] From an attentive perusal of the voyage of Magalhaens, I have lately been led to think that this is the mountain which Magalhaens called Roldan's Bell. Sarmiento has, however, assigned that name to a mountain at the back of his Bay of Campana, which will be noticed in it's proper place. The name of Mount Sarmiento was too long, and too well established with us, or I should have restored the name bestowed upon it by Magalhaens. Herrera, in his Descripcion de las Indias Occidentales, cap. xxiii, notices the "Campana de Roldan" as a great mountain in the midst of the entrance of a channel; they gave it this name (Campana de Roldan) because one of Magalhaens's companions, named Roldan, an artillery officer, went to examine it. "Y la Campana de Roldan una Pena grande en medio al principio de un canal: dieron le este nombre porque la fue a reconocer uno de los companeros de Magallanes llamado Roldan que era artillero."

[21]

By angular measurement, with a theodolite, from the tent,
the base being by diff. of lat. 297,863 feet, and allowing
1/12 of the intercepted arc for terrestrial refraction 6,864 feet.

By angular measure with sextant (index error, dip, and 1/12
of the intercepted arc being allowed) the base being
290,074 feet 7,237

By angular measurement, with a theodolite, from Warp
Bay, by Lieuts. Skyring and Graves 6,800
------
Mean 6,967 feet,
------

but as the last observation, from the angle of elevation being greater, was more likely to be correct, 6,800 feet is considered to be its elevation.

[22] At a subsequent visit, embracing a period of 190 days, it was only seen on twenty-five, and during seven days only was it constantly visible. On the remaining eighteen, portions only were seen, and those but for a few hours at a time.

[23] Sarmiento's Voyage, p. 25.

[24] Id. l.c.

[25] See Burney, ii. p. 45, for a fuller account; also id. 71.

[26] Who made a remark on the occasion, which became proverbial, "that if a ship carried out only anchors and cables, sufficient for her security against the storms in that part of the world, she would go well laden." Burney Coll. vol. ii. 45.

[27] Burney, ii. 51.

[28] The situation of "Jesus" must have been about half-way between the First and Second Narrow, near the point named in the chart N.S. de Valle, where some peaked elevations, dividing vallies near the coast line, are conspicuous. The Beagle anchored there, and found plenty of fresh water.

[29] Close to Port Famine.

[30] From Sarmiento's description of the coast, Point Santa Brigida is the outward point of Nassau Island.(a) See Sarmiento's Voyage, p. 220.

[31] Formerly spelled 'Candish.'

[32] "Near to Port Famine they took on board a Spaniard, who was the only one then remaining alive of the garrison left in the Strait by Sarmiento. The account given by this man, as reported by Magoths, is, that he had lived in those parts six years, and was one of the four hundred men sent thither by the King of Spain in the year 1582, to fortify and inhabit there, to hinder the passage of all strangers that way into the South Sea. But that town (San Felipe) and the other Spanish colony being destroyed by famine, he said he had lived in a house, by himself, a long time, and relieved himself with his caliver(b) until our coming thither." Burney, ii. p. 96. This man died on the voyage to Europe. Id. p. 97.

[33] So named by Bougainville.

[34] It belongs to the group which M. Temminck has lately named _Hylobates_, without attending to the name long since conferred upon it by Dr. Fleming. I designated it _Oidemia Patachonica_, from its large dimensions, in my communication upon the Ornithology of the Straits. Zoological Journal, vol. iv. p. 100. On my return to England, I found that M. de Freycinet had figured this bird, in the account of his last voyage in l'Uranie, where it is described by Messrs. Quoy and Gaimard under the name of _Micropterus brachypterus_.

[35] Cook's Second Voyage, 4to. p. 570.

[36] On the shores of Eagle Bay we procured a large collection of shells, among which were _Margarita violacea_ (Nob. in Zool. Journ. v. 346, No. 53), a beautiful _Modiola_ (_M. trapesina_, Lam.^k), a new _Pecten_ (P. vitreus Nob. in Zool. Jour. v. 337, No. 17), and a delicate transparent-shelled _Patella_, answering the description of _P. cymbularia_. These four species were found attached to floating leaves of the kelp (_Fucus giganteus_), and afford food to the steamer-duck. We also collected good specimens of _Murex Magellanicus_, Lam.^k, of _Fissurella picta_, Lam.^k, and a great number of the common patella of the Strait, which forms a considerable article of food for the Natives.

[37] Byron's Voyage round the World, 4to. p. 38.

[38] l. c.

[39] _Psittacus smaragdinus_, Gmel. I have no doubt that the bird we saw is the same as Bougainville procured, and from which a description has been given in the Ency. Meth., art. Ornith. 139; although a material error is made, for they are not _splendide viridis_, nor is the _uropygium_ red, in other points, however, the description is correct. See Buffon's Hist. Nat. des Oiseaux, vi. 262. Pl. enl. n. 85, Perruche des Terres Magellaniques.

[40] Bougainville says, "we have likewise perceived some perrokeets: the latter are not afraid of the cold." To which the English translator, T. R. Forster, who is incredulous of the correctness of Bougainville's assertion, appends the following note: "Perruches, probably sea-parrots, or auks." Buffon also doubted the fact, and the author of Histoire Naturelle, art. Oiseaux, tom. ii. p. 322, suggests the possibility of a specimen having been obtained in some other part of the world, and put, by mistake, amongst those collected in the Strait.

[41] So named because Mr. Tarn, the surgeon of the Adventure, was the first person who reached its summit.

[42] The height of this place, as shown by the barometer, on the ascent, was 941 feet, and, on the descent, 973 feet.

[43] On this table-land the barometer stood at 27,767. Temperature of the air 46deg,5, and of the mercury 47deg,5, which gave the elevation 1,327 feet.

[44] The result of the barometric observation for the height of Mount Tarn is as follows:

Height by one barometer { ascent 2,567.7 }
{ descent 2,625.4 } mean 2,596.5 feet.
Do. two do. { ascent 2,619.3 }
{ descent 2,596.7 } -- 2,608.0
-------
2,602.2
-------

By angular measurement from Observation Cove, Port Famine, with theodolite, allowing 1/12 of the intercepted arc for terrestrial refraction, the height is 2,850 feet.

Another observation, with the sextant, made it 2,855 feet. The mean 2,852 I consider more correct, from the difficulty of obtaining a correct reading of the barometer on the summit.

[45] By Daniell's hygrometer, used in this sheltered spot, I found the temperature of the air to be 48deg; dew point 41deg: but upon exposing the instrument to the wind, the air was 39-1/2deg, and the dew point 36deg: the difference in the former being 7deg; and the latter 3-1/2deg; from which the following results are obtained:

air. dew pt. diff. exp. dryness. weight of
a cubic.
foot of air.
In the ravine 48 41 7 292 776 3.323
Exposed to wind 39-1/2 36 3-1/2 248 898 2.871
-------------------------------------------
Difference 8-1/2 5 3-1/2 44 122 0.452

The above being the difference in the short space of three feet apart; the instrument, in the first case, being just under the lee of the rocky summit of the mountain, and in the last, above it, exposed to the wind.

[46] The air was so dry this afternoon that I failed to procure a deposit of dew upon Daniell's hygrometer, although the internal temperature was lowered from 61deg to 37deg. One of Jones's portable hygrometers was also tried, and the temperature was lowered to 31deg1/2 without a deposit; so that, the difference being more than thirty degrees, the expansive force of the air must have been less than 212, the dryness, on the thermometric scale, less than 367, and the weight of vapour, in a cubic foot of air, less than 2,355 grains.

[47] Fires made to attract attention, and invite strangers to land.

[48] This fern we found at the island of Juan Fernandez also.

[49] After the lieutenant of the Adventure.

[50] At Mr. Tarn's request.

[51] King's 'Australia,' vol. i. p. 70; also vol. ii. pp. 573, 582, and 613.

[52] At high tide the sea-water undermines, by thawing, large masses of ice, which, when the tide falls, want support, and, consequently, break off, bringing after them huge fragments of the glacier, and falling into the still basin with a noise like thunder.

[53] "En los dias 24, y 25, oimos un ruido sordo, y de corta duracion, que, por el pronto, nos parecio trueno; pero habiendo reflexionado, nos inclinamos a creer que fue efecto de alguna explosion subterranea, formado en el seno de alguna de las montanas inmediatas, en que parece haber algunos minerales, y aun volcanes, que estan del todo o casi apagados, moviendonos a hacer este juicio, el haberse encontrado, en la cima de una de ellas, porcion de materia compuesta de tierra y metal, que en su peso, color, y demas caracteres, tenia impreso el sello del fuego activo en que habia tomado aquel estado, pues era una perfecta imagen de las escorias del hierro que se ven en nuestras ferrerias.--_Apendice al Viage de Cordova al Magallanes_, p. 65.

[54] No canvas could withstand some of these squalls, which carry spray, leaves, and dirt before them, in a dense cloud, reaching from the water to the height of a ship's lower yards, or even lower mast-heads. Happily their duration is so short, that the cable of a vessel, at anchor, is scarcely strained to the utmost, before the furious blast is over. Persons who have been some time in Tierra del Fuego, but fortunate enough not to have experienced the extreme violence of such squalls, may incline to think their force exaggerated in this description: but it ought to be considered, that their utmost fury is only felt during unusually heavy gales, and in particular situations; so that a ship might pass through the Strait of Magalhaens many times, without encountering one such blast as has occasionally been witnessed there.--R. F.

[55]

"sub rupe cavata
Arboribus clausam circum atque horrentibus umbria."

[56] Mount Boqueron.

[57] Including the master, there were on board, when cast away, twenty-two persons.

[58] Bougainville Harbour, better known to Sealers by the name of 'Jack's Harbour.'

[59] "Voyage autour du Monde." 1767.

[60] One of the feathered tribe, which a naturalist would not expect to find here, a 'humming bird,' was shot near the beach by a young midshipman.--Stokes MS.

[61] Hawkesworth's Coll. of Voyages, vol. i. p. 76.

[62] It was here that Commodore Wallis and Captain Carteret separated, the Dolphin going round the world; the Swallow returning to England. Sarmiento's name of Puerto de la Misericordia, or 'Harbour of Mercy,' being of prior date, ought doubtless to be retained.

[63] Called the Scilly Isles.

[64] 'Anas Rafflesii,' Zool. Journ., vol. iv., and Tab. Supp., xxix.

[65] Of these a species of mactra (_M. edulis Nob._) was most abundant.

[66] Burney, i. 35 and 37.

[67] Falkner's Patagonia, pp. 110, 111.

[68] It is good to be drunk, it is pleasant to be drunk.

[69] Two Portuguese seamen, however, who had resided some months with them, having been left behind by a sealing vessel, and taken off by us at a subsequent period of the voyage at their own request, informed us that Maria is not the leader of religious ceremonies. Each family possesses its own household god, a small wooden image, about three inches in length, the rough imitation of a man's head and shoulders, which they consider as the representative of a superior being, attributing to it all the good or evil that happens to them.

[70] Burney, i. p. 33.

[71] Ibid. p. 135.

[72] Burney, i. 318.

[73] Ibid, i. 324.

[74] Sarmiento, p. 244.

[75] Sarmiento's Appendix, xxix.

[76] Purchas, iv. ch. 6 and 7.

[77] Burney, ii. p. 106.

[78] The tribes described by this boy are the

1. Kemenites, inhabiting a place called Karay.
2. Kennekas, Karamay.
3. Karaike, Morine.
4. Enoo, the tribe to which the Indians, whom they murdered, belonged.

[79] Burney, ii, 215.

[80] Ibid. ii. 334.

[81] Hawksworth's Coll. i 28.

[82] Ibid.

[83] See a letter from Mr. Charles Clarke, an officer on board the Dolphin, to Mr. Maly, M.D., secretary of the Royal Society, dated Nov. 3, 1766, read before the Royal Society on 12th April 1767, and published in the fifty-seventh volume of the Phil. Trans., part i. p. 75, in which an exaggerated account is given of this meeting. The men are described to be eight feet high, and the women seven and a half to eight feet. "They are prodigious stout, and as well and proportionably made as ever I saw people in my life." This communication was probably intended to corroborate the commodore's account.

[84] Ultimo Viage, p. 21.

[85] Falkner, according to Dean Funes, was originally engaged in the slave trade at Buenos Ayres; but afterwards became a Jesuit, and studied in the college at Cordova, where, to an eminent knowledge of medicine, he added that of theology. He is the author of a description of Patagonia, published in London after the expulsion of the Jesuits.--(_Ensayo de la Historia Civil del Paraguay, Buenos Ayres, y Tucuman, por el Doctor Don Gregorio Funes, iii. p. 23, note. Published at Buenos Ayres. 8vo. 1817._)

[86] See Dean Funes's account of Buenos Ayres, and of the Indian tribes, vol. ii. 394.

[87] We left Gregory Bay in the morning, and passed Cape Virgins in the evening of the same day.

[88] On our passage from Santos to St. Catherine's, in latitude 28deg south, we caught a 'dolphin' (_Coryphena_), the maw of which I found filled with shells, of _Argonauta tuberculosa_, and all containing the '_Octopus Ocythoe_' that has been always found as its inhabitant. Most of the specimens were crushed by the narrow passage into the stomach, but the smaller ones were quite perfect, and had been so recently swallowed that I was enabled to preserve several of various sizes containing the animal. To some of them was attached a nidus of eggs, which was deposited between the animal and the spire. The shells varied in size from two-thirds of an inch to two and a half inches in length; each contained an octopus, the bulk and shape of which was so completely adapted to that of the shell, that it seemed as if the shell increased with the animal's growth. When so many learned naturalists have differed so materially as to the character of the inhabitants of the argonauta, it would be presumption in me to express even an opinion; I therefore merely mention the fact, and state that in no one specimen did there appear to be any connexion between the animal and the shell.

[89] Nodales, p. 48.

[90] Falkner says, in his account of the burial ceremonies of the southern Patagonians--that, after a certain interval, the bodies are taken out of the tomb, and skeletons are made of them by the women--the flesh and entrails having been burnt. It is possible that in this case the body had been so treated, and that the fire near it was for the purpose of burning the flesh, and perhaps with it all the flags and ornaments of the tomb.

[91] He was a great favourite with them.

[92] The medicinal property of this intestinal concretion is well known wherever the animal is found. Marcgrave, in his "Tractatus topographicus et meteorologicus Brasiliae," folio, p. 36, says:--"Haec animalia (guanacoes) generant lapides Bezoares in sinu quodam ventriculi, qui maximi aestimantur contra venena et febres malignos ad roborandum et refocillandum cor, aliosque affectus. Materia e qua generantur sunt herbae insignis virtutis, quibus vescuntur naturae instinctu ad sanitatem tuendum, aut morbos et venena superandum. Hi lapides inveniuntur in adultioribus hisce animalibus atque interdum tam grandes, ut unum in Italiam attulerim qui pendet uncias duas supra triginta."--Mr. Thompson, on Intestinal Concretions. See his Syn. of Chemistry, iv. 576.

[93] _Anser nigrocollis_. Encyc. Method., art. Ornithol. 108.

[94] Weddell's Voyage.

[95] I cannot avoid noticing here the considerate conduct of the Commander-in-chief (Sir George Eyre) with respect to this appointment. By the tenor of my instructions the Adventure and Beagle were placed under the Admiral's orders; and the vacancy, had he wished to exercise his prerogative, might have been filled by one of his own followers. It was, however, given, at my request, to Mr. Sholl, as being more conversant with the duties of this peculiar service than any of the midshipmen of the flag-ship. The Admiral's conduct, on this occasion, calls for my warmest thanks.

[96] Relacion del Viage, &c. que hicieron los Capitanes B. G. de Nodales y Gonzalo de Nodales, p. 59.

[97] Falkner describes the Indians who inhabit the eastern islands of Tierra del Fuego, to be 'Yacana-cunnees,' and as he designates those who inhabit the Patagonian shore of the Strait by the same name, it might be inferred that they are of the same race; but however closely connected they may have been formerly, they certainly are not so now, for Maria (the Patagonian) spoke very contemptuously of them, and disclaimed their alliance; calling them 'zapallios,' which means slaves.

[98] Berberis ilicifolia.--Banks and Solander MSS.

[99] The specimen that was found at Port Gallant was sent by me to Mr. Vigors, who considering it, although well known to ornithologists, as never having yet been named, describes it in the Zoological Journal (vol. iii. p. 432, Aug. 1827), as Mellisuga Kingii. Shortly afterwards M. Lesson published it in his Manuel d'Ornithologie (vol. ii. p. 80.), as _Ornismya sephaniodes_, as a discovery belonging to La Coquille's voyage, in the illustrations of which it is figured at plate 31. I rather think, however, that it is Molina's _Trochilus galeritus_.--(Molina, i. 275.).

[100] Sarmiento, p. 213.

[101] Este monte es el que llaman las Relaciones antiguas la Campana de Roldan.--Sarmiento.

[102] Here we obtained a second species of the Steamer-duck, which is described in the Proceedings of the Zoological Society of London, as '_Micropterus Patachonicus_, Nob.' It differs from the _M. brachypterus_ not only in colour but in size, being a smaller bird, and having the power of raising its body, in flight, out of the water. We called it the 'Flying Steamer.'

[103] Afterwards examined by Capt. Fitz Roy. It was called Xaultegua by Sarmiento, who very correctly describes it.--(Sarmiento's Voyage, p. 208.)

[104] Because they formed a capital leading mark for the Strait of Magalhaens.

[105] Beagle Island N. 71deg. E., Cape Isabel N. 32deg. E., a remarkable mountain in the bight between Cape Santa Lucia and Cape Isabel N. 11deg. W. Cape Santa Lucia N. 33deg. W.; distance off shore three leagues; and soundings fifty fathoms, sandy bottom.

[106] (Sarmiento, p. 65.)

[107] The description of Port Henry is given in our Sailing Directions.

[108] The N.W. end of the Island de la Campana bearing N. 71deg. 40'. E. Two distant hummocky islands (answering pretty well in position with the Guaianeco Islands of the Spanish charts) N. 53deg. 30'. E., and N. 55deg. 48'. E., and a remarkable rock, the 'Dundee' of Bulkeley and Cummings, about forty-five feet high, rising like a tower from the sea, distant offshore five miles, bearing east of us, distant one mile.

[109] Length twenty feet five inches and a half, sided twelve inches, and moulded eight inches and a half.

[110] Xavier's Island is certainly the Montrose Island of Byron's Narrative. The Wager was lost, as will be seen, more to the southward, on the Guaianeco Islands.

[111] This group was afterwards called Hazard Isles.

[112] D'Azara, in his Essai sur l'Histoire Naturelle des Quadrupedes de Paraguay, gives the following account of this animal, which he calls Yagouare. It burrows in the ground, eats insects, eggs, and birds, when it can surprise them, and moves about the plains and fields both by day and night in search of food; brushing the ground with its body, and carrying its tail horizontally. It regards not the presence of man or beast; unless an attempt be made to injure or take it, when it gathers up its body, bristles up the hairs of its tail, erecting it vertically; and in this position awaits the approach of its enemy, at whom it ejects its urine, which produces so unbearable a smell, that neither man, dog, nor tiger, will attempt to touch the animal.

The yagouare moves very slowly, and cannot run. It produces two young ones, which are placed at the bottom of its burrow. The unconquered Indians of the Pampas make mantles with the furs of the fox, cavia, or other animals, and border them with the skins of the yagouare, which are very soft and fine, and would be fit for being employed by the furrier were it not for the disagreeable odour which they impart to every thing they touch. The Indians eat the flesh of this animal, which they irritate until its only means of defence is unavailing, and it can be captured without offensive consequences.

[113] From which the Mount (at Monte Video) bore N. 11deg. W., distant eight leagues.

[114] Specimens of this rock are deposited in the Geological Society's Museum, Nos. 3 and 3-1.

[115] See Zoological Journal, vol. iv. p. 92.

[116] Nos. 1 and 2 in the Geological Society's Museum. A new species of Solen (_Solen Scalprum_, nob., Zool. Journ. V. 335. No. 5.) was found on the beach; and the camerated nidus of _Buccinum muriciforme_, nob., Zool. Journal, l.c. No. 62.

[117] According to Capt. Fitz Roy the best berth is in sixteen fathoms. (Sail. Directions.)

[118] Nos. 268 to 271, Geo. Soc. Museum.

[119] A species of Gunnera (_Dysemore integrifolia_, Banks and Solander), and the green-stemmed Cineraria (_Cin. leucanthema_. Banks and Solander).

[120] Nos. 283 to 286, in Geol. Soc. Museum.

[121] The changes of pressure, during the intervals of ascent and descent, were obtained by registering the ship's barometer, which was done by signal from the stations on shore, when the readings were taken. During the ascent the column fell 0.039 inches, and during the descent rose 0.041 inches. Corrections were made for the dew point, as observed by Daniell's hygrometer at the base and summit, and the calculations were made according to the formula in Daniell's Meteorological Essay.

The following is the result:

By Bunten's Syphon. By Jones 509.

Ascent 1743.4 1749.3
Descent 1738. 1739.1
------ ------
Mean 1741. 1744.2

Mean of the two instruments 1742.4 feet.

[122] This rock is very similar to the boulders and pebbles which we found on the beach at Point St. Mary (Freshwater Bay).

[123] The underwood is composed chiefly of _Arbutus rigida_--_Berberis parvifolia_ and _ilicifolia_--(_sempervirens_ of Banks and Solander). _Veronica_ (_decussata_?) and, in moist places, _Cineraria leucanthema_, and _Dysemore integrifolia_; both of which are found in all the sheltered corners of Tierra del Fuego. No _Fuchsia_ was seen, but Mr. Anderson gathered the sweet-scented _Callixene marginata_, and a species of _Escalonia_, on the hill sides.

[124] Ann. Meeting, 30th Nov. 1832.

[125] The Survey of this part now presents the navigator with the means of ascertaining his position, to a nicety, by angles taken with a sextant between Cape Horn summit and Jerdan's Peak, or Mount Hyde, and Kater's Peak; and if Jerdan's Peak and Mount Hyde be brought in a line, and an angle taken between them and Cape Horn summit, the operation will be still more simple.

[126] Miers, in his account of Chile, gives a table of barometrical measurements of the heights of the land between Valparaiso and Mendoza, from which it appears that he has deduced the height of Curacavi to be 1,560 feet. As my determinations are the results of observations made on my way to and from Santiago, I have no doubt of their correctness, and think that the registered height of Miers's table should be 29.355 instead of 28.355.

[127] The following are the results of the barometrical determination of the height of various points on the road between Valparaiso and Santiago:--

Feet above the sea.

Casa Blanca, ten leagues from Valparaiso 803
Highest point of the road over the Cuesta de Zapata 1,977
Inn at Curacavi 633
Plain near Bustamente 808
Summit of Cuesta de Prado (not certain to 200 feet) 2,949
Inn, or post-house, at the base of the east side of the
Cuesta de Prado 1,804
Santiago, by mean of numerous observations 1,821

Miers makes the above places above the sea as follows:--

Feet above the sea.