Chapter XI: English Embroidery

First glimpse of art in England--Dyeing and weaving in
Britain in early times--Cæsar's invasion--Roman
civilization--Anglo-Saxon times and art--Adhelme's
poem--Icelandic Sagas--Saga or story of Thorgunna--English
work in the eighth century--The Benedictines--Durham
embroideries--Aelfled--St. Dunstan--Queen Emma's
work--William of Poitou--The Bayeux tapestry--Abbess of
Markgate--Gifts to Pope Adrian IV.--Robes of Thomas à
Becket at Sens--Innocent III.--English pre-eminence in
needlework from the Conquest to the Reformation--John
Garland on hand-looms--Blode-bendes and lacs d'amour--Opus
Anglicanum--English peculiarities in ecclesiastical
design--Penalties against luxury in dress--Protection the
bane of art--Dunstable pall--Stoneyhurst cope--Destruction
of fine works at the Reformation--Much on the Continent,
much collected in our old Catholic houses--Field of the
Cloth of Gold--Mary Tudor's Spanish stitches--Queen
Elizabeth's embroideries--Institution of Embroiderers'
Company--East India Company--Oriental taste discouraged on
Protectionist grounds--Decay of the art in England--Style
of James I.--Dutch style--Cushion stitches--Miss Linwood--
Miss Moritt--Mrs. Delany--Mrs. Pawsey--Postscript--Revival
of the art of needlework--"Royal School of Art Needlework" 356