Chapter VI: Appendix: I. Charles T. Newton on Votive Dresses 400

II. The Moritzburg Feather Hangings 401

III. The Story of Arachne, translated by Earl Cowper 402

IV. Charlemagne's Dalmatic, by Lord Lindsay 405

V. Notices of various Mediæval Embroideries by the Hon.
and Rev. W. Ignatius Clifford 407

VI. Syon Cope, Rock's Introduction, "Textile Fabrics" 408

VII. Assyrian Fringes 412

VIII. Hrothgar's House Furniture: Poem of Beowulf 412

IX. Thorgunna, by Sir G. Dasent 413

X. Pedigree of Aelswith 414

XI. Statutes at Large 414

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

CUTS.

Fig.|Page.|
----+-----+
1 | 20 | Egyptian corselet. Wilkinson's "Ancient Egyptians," p.
| | 332.
2 | 25 | Tabernacle of Balawat. Temp. Shalmaneser. British
| | Museum.
3 | 30 | Zoomorphic Celtic pattern.
4 | 32 | Pallas Athene attired in the sacred peplos. Panathenaic
| | vase, British Museum.
5 | 62 | Wave pattern.
6 | 63 | Key pattern.
7 | 63 | Metopes and triglyphs.
8 | 73 | Persian carpet. Egyptian symbolic patterns.
9 | 91 | Gothic sunflower. R. S. A. N.
10 | 98 | Wave.
11 | 104 | Egyptian ally and enemy. Temp. Rameses II. Wilkinson's
| | "Ancient Egyptians," iii. p. 364.
12 | 105 | Assyrian crenelated pattern.
13 | 107 | Gothic type of trees, Bayeux tapestry.
14 | 111 | Radiated pattern.
15 | 111 | Radiated sunflower.
16 | 112 | Shell pattern.
17 | 112 | Balcony pattern.
18 | 115 | Varied adjustments of square and circle.
19 | 146 | Spangles.
20 | 195 | Needles.
21 | 208 | Feather patterns. Egyptian.
22 | 216 | Application. Egyptian. Auberville's "Tissus."
23 | 217 | Embroidered border on mantle. Crimea. "Compte Rendu."
24 | 281 | Babylonian or Chaldean house and furniture.
25 | 311 | Italian fifteenth-century pattern. Celtic type.
26 | 377 | Barbed quatrefoil.
27 | 380 | Holbein pattern. Sampler.
28 | 388 | Arms of Embroiderers' Guild; given by Queen Elizabeth.
29 | 393 | Portion of James II.'s coronation dress; from an old
| | print.

PLATES.

Plate|Page.| Ref.|
-----+-----+-----|
| | | TITLE-PAGE. Penelope at her loom, reproached by her
| | | son Telemachus. From vase found at Chiusi, in
| | | Etruria. "Monum. d. Inst. Arch. Rom." ix. Pl. 42.
1 | 22 | 93 | ASSURBANIPAL (Sardanapalus). Sculptures from Nineveh.
| | | British Museum.
2 | 22 | 93 | Portion of royal Babylonian mantle. From Layard's
| | | "Monuments," Series i. pl. 9.
3 | 29 | | ST. JOHN. From King Alfred's Celtic Book of the
| | | Gospels. Lambeth Palace Library.
4 | 30 | | A PAGE of the Book of St. Cuthbert, or Book of
| | | Lindisfarne.
5 | 33 | | SILVER BOWL from Palestrina. From Clermont Ganneau's
| | | "Journal Asiatique, Syro-Egyptien-Phœnicien."
6 | 40 | 93 | EMPRESS THEODORA. Ravenna Mosaic.
7 | 42 | | ITALIAN EMBROIDERY, fifteenth century. South
| | | Kensington Museum.
8 | 43 | | ITALIAN and SPANISH orphrey, sixteenth century.
9 | 45 | | PLÂTERESQUE DESIGN. Spanish coverlet, green velvet
| | | and gold, sixteenth century. Goa work.
10 | 87 | | WAVE PATTERN. 1, 4, 9, 12, 13. Greek wave pattern.
| | | 2. Key or Mæander Greek wave. 3. Greek broken wave.
| | | 5, 6, 7. Egyptian smooth and rippling wave pattern.
| | | 8. Mediæval wave. 10, 11, 14. Babylonian and
| | | Chaldean. 15. Persian or Greek, from glass bowl,
| | | British Museum. 16. English wave (or cloud). Durham
| | | embroideries, tenth century.
11 | 88 | | SIMPLE PATTERNS. 1. Persian. 2. Lotus border,
| | | Egyptian.
12 | 90 | | LOTUS BORDERS. 1. Indian. 2, 3. Egyptian. 4, 5, Greek.
| | | 6. Indian.
13 | 95 | 102 | INDIAN LOTUS. 1. With Assyrian daisy. 2. Lotus. 3. The
| | | egg and tongue, or Vitruvian scroll from Vignola.
| | | "Regole di Ordine di Architettura."
14 | 91 | | SUNFLOWER PATTERN. R. S. A. N. Nineteenth century.
15 | 92 | | PORTION OF A PAGE of the Book of Kells. Dublin
| | | University Library.
16 | 93 | 114 | DEMETER. Greek fictile vase. British Museum.
17 | 93 | 217 | 1. GREEK EMBROIDERY, 300 B.C. From tomb of the Seven
| | | Brothers, Crimea.
| | | 2. EGYPTIAN painted or embroidered linen. The cone,
| | | bead, daisy, wave. Lotus-under-water patterns are
| | | represented on this fragment.
18 | 93 | | EGYPTIAN Tapestry weaving finished with the needle.
| | | British Museum.
19 | 97 | 114 | EGYPTIAN key patterns. Wilkinson's "Ancient
| | | Egyptians," p. 125.
20 | 99 | 101 | TREES OF LIFE. 1, 2, 3. Assyrian. 4. Sicilian silk.
| | | 5. Mediæval. Birdwood's "Indian Arts."
21 | 101 | | TREES OF LIFE. 1. Sculpture over gate of Mycenæ.
| | | 2. Sicilian silks; Persian type.
22 | 101 | | LOTUS MERGED INTO TREE OF LIFE. 1. Split Chinese
| | | Lotus. 2. Split Persian Lotus, from a frieze by
| | | Benozzo Gozzoli. Ricardi Palace, Florence. 3. Petal
| | | of flower. Greek glass bowl from tomb in Southern
| | | Italy.
23 | 101 | | TREES OF LIFE. Sicilian silks. Auberville. 1, 2, 3,
| | | 4, 5, 10. Persian type. 6, 7, 8, 9, 11. Indian type.
24 | 101 | | TREE OF LIFE transformed into vine. Modern pattern of
| | | work from the Principalities.
25 | 103 | | TYPICAL CROSSES. 1. Swastika fire-stick cross. 2.
| | | From Greek vase, British Museum, 765 B.C. 3.
| | | Sectarial mark of Sakti race. India. 4. Sectarial
| | | mark of Buddhists and Jainis. 5. On early Rhodian
| | | pottery. 6. Egyptian prehistoric cross. 7. Tau
| | | cross. 8. Mark of land, Egyptian and Ninevite.
| | | 9. Mark of land, Egyptian and Ninevite. 10. Clavus,
| | | "nail" or "button," or sun-cross. 11, 12, 13.
| | | Scandinavian sun and moon crosses. 14, 15, 16.
| | | Celtic. 17. Chrysoclavus. 18, 19. Stauracin
| | | patterns. 20. Norwegian. 21. Runic. 22. Cross in
| | | Temple of the Sun, Palenque. 23. Scotch Celtic
| | | cross. 24. Cross at Iona. 25, 26. Runic and
| | | Scandinavian crosses. 27. Cross diapered on
| | | Charlemagne's dalmatic. 28. From mantle of Henry
| | | II., Emperor of Germany.
26 | 103 | | PREHISTORIC CROSSES. 1. Greek. Pallas, with plaited
| | | tunic worked with Swastika. 2. Greek. Ajax playing
| | | at dice with Achilles. Cloak embroidered with
| | | Swastika and other prehistoric patterns. Fictile
| | | vase, Vatican Museum.
27 | 105 | | ASSYRIAN CARPET carved in stone, British Museum.
28 | 107 | | GOTHIC. 1. Dress patterns from old MS. 2, 3. Old
| | | English tiles.
29 | 109 | | CLOUD PATTERNS. 1, 2, 3, 7. Japanese. 5, 8, 9.
| | | Mediæval. 4. Chinese. 6. Badge of Richard II.
30 | 109 | | INDO-CHINESE COVERLET. Hatfield. Supposed to have
| | | belonged to Oliver Cromwell.
31 | 109 | | FUNDATA PATTERNS. 1. On Phœnician silver bowl.
| | | ("L'Imagerie Phénicienne.") 2, 3. From tomb at
| | | Essiout, Egypt. Wilkinson's "Ancient Egyptians,"
| | | ii. p. 125. 1600 B.C.
32 | 124 | | PART OF BORDER of silk, gold, and pearls. Worked by
| | | Blanche, wife of Charles IV. of Bohemia. Bock's
| | | "Lit. Gew." ii. p. 246.
33 | 147 | | EMBROIDERED WINDOW HANGING from portrait of Mahomet
| | | II., by Gentil Bellini; belonging to Sir Henry
| | | Layard.
34 | 153 | 110 | CLASSICAL SILKS. 1. Greek. 2. Roman.
35 | 163 | | DURHAM RELICS. Persian type of silk weaving.
36 | 164 | | DURHAM RELICS. Norman and Persian types mixed.
37 | 164 | | DURHAM RELICS. Græco-Egyptian type.
38 | 164 | | EGYPTIAN BOAT with embroidered and fringed sails,
| | | and floating scarves. Wilkinson's "Ancient
| | | Egyptians," iii. p. 211.
39 | 200 | | WHITE EMBROIDERY from sculptured tomb of a knight,
| | | fifteenth century. Ara Cœli, Rome.
40 | 201 | | PROCESSIONAL CLOAK, Spanish work, temp. Henry VIII.,
| | | belonging to Lord Arundel of Wardour.
41 | 204 | | OPUS PULVINARIUM. Counted stitches. 1. Italian. 2.
| | | Scandinavian. 3. Ancient Egyptian. Turin Museum.
42 | 206 | | ITALIAN MOSAIC STITCH work, sixteenth century.
| | | Alford House.
43 | 214 | | JAPANESE OPUS PLUMARIUM. White silk.
44 | 216 | 25 | OPUS CONSUTUM. Funeral tent of an Egyptian queen.
45 | 219 | 123 | OPUS CONSUTUM. "Inlaid" and "onlaid." Italian,
| | | seventeenth century.
46 | 235 | | EGYPTIAN GOBELINS finished with the needle.
47 | 236 | | RHEIMS CATHEDRAL TAPESTRY. The Virgin weaving and
| | | embroidering on frame a "basse-lisse."
48 | 243 | | TENT OF CHARLES THE BOLD, taken at Grandson, now in
| | | museum at Berne. The badge is that of the Golden
| | | Fleece.
49 | 252 | | ENGLISH TAPESTRY belonging to Lord Salisbury, at
| | | Hatfield House, temp. Henry VIII.
50 | 294 | | ITALIAN KNIGHT of fifteenth century armed for
| | | conquest. Gentile da Fabriano. Academia, Florence.
51 | 309 | | ST. MARK. Anglo-Saxon Book of the Gospels. York
| | | Minster Library.
52 | 312 | | CLASSICAL PATTERN adapted into Christian art.
53 | 318 | | CHARLEMAGNE'S DALMATIC. Vatican Treasury.
54 | 318 | | CHARLEMAGNE'S DALMATIC. Vatican Treasury.
55 | 318 | | PORTION OF CHARLEMAGNE'S DALMATIC. Half-size.
56 | 319 | | ST. SILVESTER'S PLUVIAL. Treasury of St. John
| | | Lateran, Rome. Opus Anglicanum, thirteenth
| | | century.
57 | 319 | | PORTION OF ST. SILVESTER'S PLUVIAL, showing its
| | | condition.
58 | 319 | | BOLOGNA COPE. Museo del Municipio. Opus Anglicanum.
59 | 319 | | DAROCA COPE. Archæological Museum at Madrid. Opus
| | | Anglicanum.
60 | 319 | | BONIFACE VIII.'S COPE from Anagni, his native place;
| | | now in Vatican Treasury; twelfth century.
61 | 319 | | ALTAR FRONTAL at Anagni, Italy. Italian work,
| | | fourteenth century.
62 | 320 | | WORCESTER RELICS of the tenth century. 1. From tomb
| | | of Walter de Cantilupe. 2. From Aix, in Switzerland.
| | | Same type.
63 | 320 | | 1. MITRE OF THOMAS À BECKET. 2. The cross with twelve
| | | leaves, "for the healing of the nations." Coronation
| | | vestments at Rheims.
64 | 321 | | ANGLO-SAXON WORK, purple and gold, from tomb of
| | | William de Blois, Worcester. He died Bishop in 1236.
65 | 321 | | A PORTION OF ST. STEPHEN OF HUNGARY'S MANTLE, worked
| | | by his Queen Gisela. From Bock's "Kleinodien."
66 | 322 | | PORTION OF MANTLE OF HENRY II., worked by his Empress
| | | Kunigunda. From Bock's "Kleinodien."
67 | 325 | | THE SYON COPE. South Kensington Museum.
68 | 329 | | ITALIAN EMBROIDERIES designed by Pollaiolo; worked by
| | | Paolo da Verona. Sixteenth century.
69 | 330 | | SPANISH ALTAR FRONTAL. THE ARMS OF CASTILE embroidered
| | | in gold with pearls. Ashridge. Plâteresque style,
| | | seventeenth century.
70 | 337 | 113 | CONSULAR IVORIES. Two diptychs. 1. Zurich,
| | | Wasser-Kirche. Inscribed to Consul Areobindus,
| | | A.D. 434. 2. At Halberstadt. No date. From Bock's
| | | "Lit. Gew."
71 | 363 | | AELFLED'S ORPHREY, signed by her. Durham Cathedral
| | | Library.
72 | 363 | | ST. GREGORY AND ST. JOHN (PROPHET), from Aelfled's
| | | orphrey. Durham. English work, tenth century.
73 | 365 | | ST. DUNSTAN in adoration, drawn by himself. Bodleian
| | | Library, Oxford. Tenth century.
74 | 369 | | SMALL PARSEMÉ PATTERNS from Strutt's "Royal and
| | | Ecclesiastical Antiquities of the English from
| | | 1100 to 1530."
75 | 369 | | ENGLISH PATTERNS of embroidery. 1. Panel of a screen
| | | in Hornby Church, Yorkshire. 2. Dress on a painted
| | | window in St. Michael's Church, York. 3. Woven
| | | material of the Towneley Copes.
76 | 375 | | OPUS ANGLICANUM, twelfth century. British Museum.
77 | 376 | | TYPICAL ENGLISH ORNAMENTS for ecclesiastical
| | | embroideries, twelfth century.
78 | 377 | | DUNSTABLE PALL. Temp. Henry VII.
79 | 378 | | VINTNERS' COMPANY PALL. Henry VII.
80 | 378 | | HENRY VII.'S COPE, from Stoneyhurst; designed by
| | | Torrigiano, the sculptor of his tomb.
81 | 382 | | SPANISH WORK. Temp. Henry VIII.
82 | 383 | | ENGLISH "SPANISH WORK." Temp. Henry VIII.
83 | 389 | | CUSHION COVER, Hatfield House. Temp. Elizabeth.
84 | 390 | | ORIENTAL "TREE AND BEAST" PATTERN. Cockayne-Hatley.
| | | Temp. James I.
85 | 391 | | ENGLISH CREWEL WORK. Indian design. Temp. James I.

NEEDLEWORK AS ART.