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Chapter XVI: Second Antiquarian Expedition—The Shores of Lake

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Managua once more—Matearas—Don Henrique’s Comadre—I am engaged as
Godfather—An Amazon—Santa Maria de Buena Vista—A “Character” in
Petticoats—“La Negrita y La Blanquita”—Purchase of Buena Vista—A
Yankee Idea in a Nicaraguan Head—Hints for Speculators—Muchacho
vs. Burro—Equestrian Intoxication—Another
Apostrophe!—Pescadors—“Hay no mas,” and “Esta aqui,” as Measures
of Distance—Managua—The “Malpais,” Nindiri and Masaya—Something
Cool—A Pompous Alcalde—How to Arrest Conspirators—Flowers of the
Palm—Descent to the Lake—Memorials of Catastrophes—Las
Aguadoras—New Mode of Sounding Depths—Ill-bred Monkeys—Traditional
Practices—Oviedo’s Account of the Lake in 1529—Sardines—The Plaza
on Market Night—A Yankee Clock—Something Cooler—A State Bedroom
for a Minister—Ancient Church—Filling out a Vocabulary—“Quebrada
de las Inscripciones”—Sculptured Rocks—Their Character—Ancient
Excavations in the Rock—“El Baño”—Painted Rocks of Santa
Catarina—Night Ride to Granada—The Laguna de Salinas by
Moonlight—Granada in Peace—A Query Touching Human Happiness—New
Quarters and Old Friends—An American Sailor—His Adventures—“Win or
Die”—A Happy Sequel, 413

CHAPTER XVII.—Visit to Pensacola—Discovery of Monuments—Search for
others—Success—Departure for “El Zapatero”—La Carlota—Los
Corales—Isla de La Santa Rosa—A Night Voyage—Arrival at
Zapatero—Search for Monuments—False Alarm—Discovery of
Statues—Indians from Ometepec—A Strong Force—Further
Investigations—Mad Dance—Extinct Crater and Volcanic Lake—Stone of
Sacrifice—El Canon—Description of Monuments, and their probable
Origin—Life on the Island, 447

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NicaraguaChapter XVI: Second Antiquarian Expedition—The Shores of Lake

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