Chapter IV: San Carlos—Dinner at the Commandante’s—Introduction to

“Tortillas y Frijoles”—A Siesta—News of the attempted
Revolution—Anticipating Events, and what happened to the
Commandante after we left—Departure under a Military Salvo—View of
San Carlos from the Lake—Lake Navigation—Card Playing—Gorgeous
Sunset—A Midnight Storm—San Migueleto, and the “Bath of the
Naides”—Primitive Simplicity—A Day on the Lake—“El Pedernal”—A
Bath with Alligators—An “Empacho”—A Trial at Medicine, and great
Success—Second Night on the Lake—The Volcanoes of Momobacho,
Ometepec, and Madeira—Volcanic Scenery—The Coast of Chontales—The
Crew on Politics—“Timbucos” and “Calandracas,” or a Glance at
Party Divisions—Arrival at “Los Corals”—Some Account of
them—Alarming News—A Council of War—Faith in the United States
Flag—The Island of Cuba—More News, and a Return of the
“Empacho”—Distant View of Granada—Making a Toilet—Bees—Arrival at
the Ruined Fort of Granada—How they Land there—Sensation amongst
the Spectators—Entrance to the City—The Abandoned Convent of San
Francisco—The Houses of the Inhabitants—First Impressions—Soldiers
and Barricades—Thronged Streets—Señor Don Frederico
Derbyshire—“Our Host”—A Welcome—Official Courtesies—Our
Quarters—First Night in Granada, 91