Chapter VI: Appendix: The History of the Persian Walnut in Pennsylvania

J. G. RUSH, WEST WILLOW, PENNSYLVANIA

The history of the Persian walnut in Pennsylvania goes back several hundred years. Seed nuts only were brought here by the early German settlers, as steam navigation was unknown at that period. From this mixture of seed from Europe, we have at this time a few varieties worthy of favorable mention. In this connection I will give you my brief history or experiences and observation for the last twenty-nine years.

In 1886 I bought two seedling trees from a local nursery regardless of name or variety at thirty-five cents each. These two trees received equal treatment in culture for ten years, when the so-called Rush tree produced two bushels of fine developed nuts. The other tree about forty feet away has not produced two bushels from the time it was planted to the present date.

The productiveness of the Rush induced me to think, and to investigate the great difference in these two trees. I finally found the Rush to be a simultaneous bloomer whereas the other was just the reverse.

Being a member of the State Horticultural Association I exhibited these nuts from time to time when finally other members became interested in nut culture. Mr. John Engle of the Marietta Nurseries advised me to plant seed from this particular tree and raise seedling trees for sale. I finally did on a small scale only. But I soon found in the young seedlings a taint of black walnut blood, which discouraged me for a further continuance. Later I had correspondence with J. F. Jones, then of Monticello, Fla., who had specialized in the propagation of all nut trees. In 1903 scions were sent to him, and returned as budded trees in 1905, and are now a living monument to the memory of the first propagator of the Rush variety.

The Pennsylvania state nursery inspector first called my attention to the Hall variety in Erie County, Pa., after which a lively correspondence followed and sample nuts were exchanged. In 1910 Mr. J. F. Jones and myself were to see this tree, in order to get its life history. It was said by Mr. Hall that the tree was planted by the early German settlers about forty years ago. The Hall variety is very catchy to the eye on account of its large size. Through the kindness of Mr. Hall we were allowed to cut a few buds, which are bearing trees now at West Willow.

The Holden came first to my attention about four years ago in the New York State Horticultural Association Report, after which a lively correspondence opened and sample nuts with the Rush were exchanged which finally led to the propagation of this prospective variety.

The Nebo is a variety the history of which I traced back to about seventy-five years ago. It was planted by an English iron-master by the name of McCreary. It is said that he gave lodging to a tree agent, whereupon he received this tree as compensation.

The Burlington from Burlington, N. J., is of the Alpine type, and is of great size.

The Lancaster was first called to my attention a year ago. It is said the tree, not the seed, was brought from Germany. This variety is worthy of extensive cultivation, is however also of the Alpine type and very prolific.

In connection with the varieties just mentioned we have also the French varieties, such as the Mayette, Franquette, Cutleaf, Alpine and Parisienne. The French varieties are not tried out in respect to their dependability for the Atlantic coast. They however show hardiness equal to any other variety grown in Pennsylvania.

As regards the late vegetating habit of some Of these varieties enabling them to escape late spring frosts, I see no advantage whatever, as Jack Frost is a privileged character and makes his appearance regardless of time or place.

With the limited efforts I have made thus far in the dissemination of the Persian walnut, I am absolutely confident that the work has just commenced. There will yet be varieties discovered which will compare favorably and may surpass those we have already listed. The best territory to work in I find is the German settlements. They always were noted for their seed distributions in the early history of Pennsylvania. In justice to these frugal people, the Persian walnut should be called The Dutch nut. But the English were the great importers of these nuts and hence the name English walnut. The Germans today as they visit their Fatherland invariably bring a few nuts or trees with them, which keeps up the supply. Of course not all these seedling trees are true to the variety desired. But they say they come from the Homeland, which gives them great contentment.

In the dissemination of these interesting nut-bearing trees I am safe in saying I have visited hundreds of them and mostly single trees of very little importance. The principal complaint is that when the nuts are as large as grapes they drop off from some unknown cause. This is all for the want of proper cross pollenization. The public in general is now getting educated to the importance of planting grafted or budded varieties of known merit, which is attested by the large plantings of the last several years.

My limited experience with grafting large nut trees is that it is not practicable, from the fact that the lower limbs outgrow the grafted ones and eventually smother them and cause them to die out, leaving the tree in a disfigured condition. The better way is to plant several trees of a good pollenizing variety near one another to get best results in bearing.

In this brief history of the nut industry of Pennsylvania and adjacent states, I have said nothing in regard to propagation and culture, knowing that some one else will take up that subject in detail.

Horace Greeley in his prime of life said: "Young man, go west."

The Northern Nut Growers Association says: "Young man, plant a nut tree."

A COMPARISON OF NORTHERN AND SOUTHERN CONDITIONS IN THE PROPAGATION OF NUT TREES

J. F. JONES, LANCASTER, PA.

I shall not try to cover the whole subject of propagation or describe methods of budding and grafting, as these will be covered by others and we are to have demonstrations of budding and grafting, which are far ahead of any descriptions that can be given. I will try to compare conditions in the North and South and give some of my experience with the problems that have confronted us.

We have been able to get very satisfactory results with the pecan, either by budding or grafting, under northern conditions. With good scions and good stocks we have been able to get nearly, if not quite, as good results in Pennsylvania as we were able to get in Florida or Louisiana. The growth of the tree is also quite satisfactory. From dormant buds on good stocks we are able to get a growth of four to six feet the first year in the nursery and six to seven feet is not unusual. The growth is also quite stocky and altogether very satisfactory. Any of the methods of propagation as practiced on the pecan in the South are successful in the North, but budding by the patch method has given us the best results. Grafting is quite successful so far as the live or stand is concerned, but, on account of our shorter growing season, the growth is not nearly so satisfactory as that of the dormant bud which, being set the previous summer, is ready to start quickly into growth in the spring and gets the full benefit of our shorter growing season.

The shagbark hickory is essentially a northern tree and can only be propagated satisfactorily in the North. In Florida and Louisiana we could graft the shagbark on pecan stocks with fairly satisfactory results, so far as the live or stand was concerned, but the tree did not take kindly to the climate of the Gulf Coast and made little growth, a number dying out altogether the second and third years after being grafted. We have never gotten very satisfactory results from grafting the shagbark with scions taken from old, bearing trees, but with good scions from young thrifty trees, the shagbark may be grafted with fairly satisfactory results in the northern states. From the nature of the growth, it is not practical to bud the shagbark by the annular or patch bud methods as practiced so satisfactorily on the pecan, but last season (1913) in an experiment we got good results from ordinary shield budding by taking scions from a tree that had matured and ripened its growth up early and setting the buds on young, sappy growth of the pignut hickory, _Hicoria Glabra_. The scions from which those buds were taken were cut to test patch budding on the shagbark and when it was found that the growth had hardened and the bark would not peel, the buds were cut and inserted by ordinary shield budding, as practiced on the apple, peach, etc. This experiment was made with little or no hope of success, so that my surprise can well be imagined, when the wrapping was removed and it was found that every bud had united with the stocks! These buds have made better growth the present season than have the grafts set the past spring, as might be expected. This may be a freak and we may not be able to again duplicate the results, at least in more extensive practice, but I am inclined to think that we will, under similar conditions. The shagbark, without any manipulation, ripens and hardens up its growth early in the season and it would appear that these conditions could easily be duplicated, at least in average seasons. Young stocks of either the pecan or pignut hickory hold their sap much later than does the shagbark and are in good condition for budding after the shagbark is dormant. We have practiced this method on the chestnut for several years with very satisfactory results. The chestnut may be budded almost as easily as the apple or pear, and with nearly as good results, by ordinary shield budding, by taking scions for budding from an old bearing tree which has matured and ripened its growth up early and setting the buds on young, sappy seedling stocks growing under cultivation in the nursery. The paragon chestnut, especially, ripens its growth up very early when the tree is carrying a good crop of chestnuts, and there is a month, in average seasons, when buds may be taken from it and set on young stocks in the nursery. This condition might be brought about on younger trees from which buds are to be taken by withholding nitrogenous fertilizers and cultivation, or, if necessary, by root pruning. Root pruning should not be too severe as a sudden check on the growth in the growing season might interfere more or less with the storing up of "starch" or "dormant plant food" in the scion. Any condition or conditions that will serve to induce early maturing and ripening of the wood growth on trees from which buds are to be taken will be satisfactory, and by using nitrogenous fertilizers and liberal cultivation on the stocks to be budded, they may be kept in good condition of sap well into September in average seasons. Grafted at the proper time we were able to get good results without any manipulation of the seedling stocks. All that we ever did there was to remove the new growth occasionally to hold the stocks in good condition for grafting and prolong the grafting season, and it was always questionable whether this was a necessary precaution. My idea in keeping the new growth off the stocks till the grafts were set was not to control the sap flow, but to prevent, if it were possible by this means, the exhaustion of the stored up "starch" in the stock, by the new growth. In the northern states, the sap in the walnut stocks, and perhaps to some extent in other nut tree stocks, is inclined to come up in the spring with a rush. Some seasons at least, even before the buds push into growth, when the stocks are cut off for grafting a large number "bleed" or run sap very freely and this may continue several days, flooding and injuring the scion, and exhausting the vitality of the stock. This condition was especially noticeable the past spring, due presumably, to the lateness of the growing season. Making provision for the exit of the surplus sap was usually sufficient in the lower south and, we believed, would be farther north, but with the stronger flow of sap this is not sufficient in the northern states, at least some seasons. An examination of grafts, set on stocks which have bled freely after having been grafted, shows that the stock callouses very slowly, if at all, and the scion, unless it be of very heavy, solid wood, becomes dark colored and sour and the wood soon dies in the cleft, although the scion above this point may remain green for weeks. I am not able, at this time, to give any specific remedy for the correction of this trouble for the reason that I have not worked it out to my own satisfaction as yet, but now that we understand the trouble better, I feel sure that we will be able to correct it in the manipulation of the stocks before they are grafted. Keeping the new growth off the stocks may be found to be sufficient in most seasons, if the grafting is done rather late, but I am of the opinion that a rather severe cutting back of the stocks a few days before they are grafted, if the grafting is done early, will be found the best practice. For later grafting, my opinion is that two or three cuttings, say a week apart, will be better. Root pruning, where it can be practiced to advantage, will be found more effective still. I have never known newly transplanted stocks or those which had the tree digger run under them, to bleed freely when grafted, and we have sometimes gotten a good stand of grafts on such stocks, but such stocks may not always have sufficient sap for the best results in grafting, if they have been recently transplanted or root pruned. Fall planted As a matter of experiment, I want to try budding both the pecan and walnut by this method the present season, but I don't expect any results from walnut buds set in this way. For the information of those who may wish to try this method the present season, I will say that we cut the shagbark buds a little heavier than we cut apple or pear buds. The wood was left in the bud. The bark on the stock was split and the buds inserted just as in any other shield budding. The buds were wrapped very firmly, with waxed muslin, just as we wrap patch buds.

Our success with grafting the English or Persian walnut, under northern conditions, has been variable and not very satisfactory. With good scions and good stocks and other favorable conditions, we have sometimes gotten over 90 per cent to grow, but the stand is more often much below this and the present season we did not average over 25 per cent. The fact that we get good stands of grafts when all conditions are right, is not only encouraging but demonstrates that the English walnut can be grafted under eastern or northern conditions with at least a fair degree of certainty as to results, just as soon as we learn the causes of our failures and are thus able to apply the remedy. Perhaps the greatest drawback to the successful grafting of the English walnut is the difficulty of obtaining good scions. The annual growth of the walnut is much more pithy than that of the pecan or shagbark, and for this reason, only a comparatively small portion of the growth is available for grafting purposes if we are able to select scions that will give the best results. Like the pecan and shagbark, the two-year wood makes the best scions for grafting, provided that the wood has good buds on it, but under our conditions those buds that lie dormant are usually shed off during the summer and few good buds remain that will start quickly into active growth. It is true that adventitious buds will often form where these buds have shed off, and these will push into growth if the stock is kept free from sprouts, but usually too late in the season to make good trees, and keeping the seedling stock free from sprouts when it should be in leafage is more or less weakening and injurious and the grafts, starting into growth late in the season, do not mature and ripen their growth up properly before frost and are quite likely to be injured by early November freezes, unless they have some protection. To graft the English walnut with unvarying and satisfactory results, under northern conditions, we must not only have good scions and good stocks, but we must control the sap flow in the stocks. In Florida and Louisiana the sap came up more gradually in the stocks in the spring, and when or root pruned stocks would probably give the best results, as the sap would probably come up more gradually in the spring and, while the flow would probably be sufficient for the best results, it would not flow freely enough to injure the scion or stock.

We have not experienced any serious difficulty from an extreme flow of sap in pecan stocks, either in the North or South, but we have had grafts set on the pignut hickory fail from this cause. The English walnut may be budded with fair to good results, by the patch method, by selecting good buds on the best matured, round growth, but to propagate the tree economically and satisfactorily it is desirable to both bud and graft, otherwise both stocks and scion wood are wasted.

TOP-WORKING LARGE WALNUT TREES

W. C. REED, VINCENNES, INDIANA

In top-working large native walnut trees to the Persian or English walnut, the first operation is to cut the trees back severely. This should be done while the trees are dormant, preferably in February or early in March. Cut them back two feet or more above where you wish to graft, then cut again to where you want them. This will avoid splitting. Usually we cut back to where the limbs are from two to four inches in diameter. We have cut some back that were six to eight inches with good results. However, limbs this size require careful attention to avoid decay as it takes so long for them to heal over.

_Scions for Grafting_

Scions for grafting should be cut while perfectly dormant and packed in damp moss or sawdust, being careful not to have it too wet. Paper line the boxes and place in a cool place. Cold storage is much better. Scions cut during the winter and placed in cold storage will come out in good shape for grafting in May, or budding during July or August. Where there is danger of the wood being injured by cold weather it would be well to cut scions in November, before severe cold.

_Time for Grafting_

Wait until the new growth is well advanced or nearly in full leaf, which is about May 1 to 10, in this latitude.

_Methods_

Use either the wedge graft or the bark graft. We have had equally good results with each. If any difference it is in favor of the side or bark graft which we prefer because it does not split or mutilate the stock, there is not the chance for decay, and the wounds heal over much quicker. On limbs three to four inches in diameter put in three to four grafts.

Cut the stubs back one to two inches below where they were cut when dormant so you may have a fresh clean cut. Pare the rough bark off until you have a fairly smooth surface for three inches below where the limbs are cut off.

_Side or Bark Grafting_

For side or bark grafting split the bark with a sharp knife for about two inches where the graft is to be set. Cut your scions with about two buds. Slope the scion all from one side with a long slope so it will fit well to the wood or cambium layer; then trim off a little of the outer bark on the outside lower edge of the scion, just enough to expose the cambium so it will come in contact with the inner side of the bark on the tree.

_Wedge Graft_

If the wedge graft is used, take a long bladed knife (a corn knife will do) set it sloping on the cut off stock and make a clean cut through the bark first so it will split straight, then raise the handle of the knife and drive the blade into the wood, splitting it as deep as needed, depending on the size of the scion and insert a wooden wedge made from some hard wood. An old broom or hoe handle is good, tapering the wedge from both sides, leaving it thick in the center so it will come out easily after the graft is set by simply tapping lightly from first one side and then the other. In cutting the scion slope from each side with a long slope to fit the split in the stub. The outer edge of the scion should be somewhat thicker than the inner edge so that when the wedge is taken out it will be held firm. Be very careful to see that the cambium of the scion and tree meet on each edge of the scion. Pack all large cracks with tissue paper and wax thoroughly.

_Waxing, Tying, Bagging_

As soon as the grafts are set, cover the entire wound with grafting wax, being careful to cover the top of the stub well and the sides as far down as the bark is split, and the upper end of the scion. Then place a paper sack over the stub to prevent evaporation and leave this on until the scions start into growth. We do not use any tying material on large limbs because the bark is thick enough to hold the graft in place. However, on smaller trees it will be important to wrap the grafts well.

_Grafting Wax_

The best grafting wax we have found is composed of the following:

Four pounds resin, one pound beeswax, one-half pint linseed oil and one tablespoon of lampblack. Melt all together and apply with a paint brush, being careful not to have the wax too hot.

_After Care_

After new growth starts watch it closely every week or ten days and keep all suckers removed until the scion starts into growth. Wherever grafts fail to start the suckers may be left to grow for budding later.

_Budding Large Trees_

Cut back early the same as for grafting, cover all cuts with grafting wax, let all sprouts grow until time to bud, which is usually August 1 to September 1. Thin out the small, weaker sprouts and bud three or four of the largest ones, setting the bud four to six inches from where the sprout comes out of the stub. Use the patch bud, wrap carefully with waxed cloth, using muslin dipped in melted beeswax, the strips of cloth three-sixteenths to one-fourth inch wide. The following spring, about March 1, cut the sprouts back to about three inches above the bud, remove all other sprouts when new growth starts and keep all suckers removed.

_Supports_

At this time you will need to put up slat supports to tie the buds to. Take slats one by two inches and twelve feet long. Nail these to the sides of the limbs so they will extend six to eight feet above. Keep buds and grafts tied up every week or ten days during the growing season.

It has been our experience that budding is preferable. However, grafting in the spring and then budding in August gives you two chances the same season.

This same method applies to the pecan and hickory as well as the walnut and if the work is carefully done you will surely be well paid for your work.

INTEREST IN NUT GROWING IN THE INTERMOUNTAIN STATES

DR. L. D. BATCHELOR, UTAH AGRICULTURAL EXPERIMENT STATION

The marked increase in the interest in nut growing throughout the intermountain states is shown by the numerous inquiries on this subject which are directed to this office. There have been very few plantings of commercial orchards, but on every hand there is an interest shown in using nut trees for shade trees. The hardy varieties of Persian walnut are being planted more each year to ascertain the most promising sorts for commercial planting. Larger plantings will no doubt follow when some of these varieties have gained the confidence of the people, for one of the chief drawbacks to nut planting in the past has been the common belief that a semi-tropical climate is essential to the production of such nuts as almonds, pecans and Persian walnuts.

The Utah Agricultural Experiment Station has distributed about one hundred Persian walnut trees to coöperative planters over the state the past season. Ninety-five per cent of the trees are making a thrifty growth, while a similar planting made in 1912 gives good promise.

The following varieties are included in the experimental lot; Chaberte (grafted on black walnut); Franquette (on black and English walnut); Franquette (Vrooman Strain); Mayette (on English Walnut); Parisienne (on the black walnut); Pomeroy (seedling); Pomeroy (on black walnut); Rush (on black walnut).

A number of seedling trees have been discovered by the writer during the past year, throughout the state. Some of these seedlings are producing a fairly good type of commercial nut. What is more important, however, the success of these seedling Persian walnuts points to the practicability of planting the hardier varieties of this nut in the intermountain states.

REPORT FROM G. H. CORSAN

Location--Toronto.

Season--Winter, 1913-1914; Spring, 1914; Summer, 1914.

Type of season--November and December very mild. The ground was not frozen the least on January 1, 1914. January 12 the coldest day Toronto ever experienced 22° F. below zero. On February 12 it was 18° F. below zero. January, February and most of March _very_ steady cold. Very little snow all winter, none on January 12.

Except those that I smothered by _too_ much care the following seedlings lived through the winter and are alive today: Pecans; pinus edulis; pinus Koriensis; chestnuts; filberts; all the juglans including Californica and Canadian seed of regia; pawpaws; persimmons. My "mountain rose" peaches had not a twig winter killed though my Fitzgeralds, a very hardy peach, had some; this peach may not be as hardy as it is blown up to be. The season has been very dry and this summer many of the Paragon chestnuts died that were not watered. My Pomeroy walnuts are having a struggle to keep good form but I think that I will have a few hardy ones selected from them, as these last two winters have been the most trying on young trees we have ever had, of which fact I am glad. Here at Battle Creek are a dozen of Mr. W. C. Reed's grafted pecans; all are alive and growing strong as are mine in Toronto. I wrote you of the horrible abuse that mine had while in transit and they had a right to die but lived. Pecans grow very late into the fall and do not shed their leaves early so that I feel sure that the wood will harden sufficiently to stand the winter. The next question is, will the nut mature where grapes and peaches grow and just escape the October frosts. I saw many splendid pecans at Burlington, Iowa. Native pecans for seed stock can be procured from there in abundance. The nuts there are long and narrow, but not thick-shelled, and sell retail in the stores for not less than twenty cents a pound. The climate at Burlington has been 35° F. below zero some winters.

I am certain from my observations all over northeastern North America that the pecan has far more possibilities than the English walnut or any other nut unless we can develop a blight proof chestnut.

The north Chinese walnut has been doing wonderfully well in Toronto and those two trees fifteen and seventeen feet high have not a twig killed. They do not bear as early as the Japanese. Their leaves are much longer than the English walnut but the nut is fully as good as the best California, Persian walnut that ever reached the market. Many of the nuts are paper shelled, some burst open at the suture. Their appearance is almost the same as the English but the tree is much hardier, growing at the extreme north of China. Then this is the tree that the nurserymen of Ontario have been selling as "English" walnuts and guaranteeing to be hardy. But as soon as we saw the leaf and the trunk we at once knew them for north Chinese walnuts and upon being told that, the men acknowledged that they were. Just today I have been speaking to a missionary from the extreme north of China and he informs me that they have two feet of ice every winter where these trees grow in abundance with the finest nuts he ever saw. This fact and the fact that really good pecans can grow up north are the two facts that I wish this association to work on in order to get results that are certain of success.

DISTRIBUTION OF PERSIAN ("ENGLISH") WALNUT SEEDLINGS IN MICHIGAN

Attention should be called to the work of Mr. Myron A. Cobb of the Department of Agriculture of the Central State Normal School, Mount Pleasant, Michigan, of which he sends the following outline. Mr. Cobb has consented to send out with the trees a leaflet, to be supplied by this Association, explaining the fundamental principles of nut growing.

It is interesting to note the cost of these seedling trees, one and one-half cents each, including postage.

The success of Mr. Cobb's work shows the readiness of the public for it. Our Association should encourage similar work in other states.

* * * * *

"About five years ago, I began the distribution of walnut seedlings by planting a few seeds in our orchard, and distributed them to the schools of Isabella County. I distributed about five hundred each year, making a total of two thousand five hundred seedlings. This year, the idea has been more widely advertised, and the demand for seedlings has been enormous. I have distributed this year five thousand seedlings and have received orders for about two thousand more which I could not fill because of lack of trees.

"This work was taken up primarily with the idea of distributing walnut seedlings on the farms and incidentally to teach how trees are raised and to correlate the work of the school to the home.

"The trees have been distributed largely by parcel post, in amounts from three to three hundred. The trees have been sold for one and one-half cents each. This covers the original cost of the trees and the postage on the same. Some of the trees have been grown upon our own grounds, but the most of them have been obtained from the D. Hill Nursery Company, of Dundee, Illinois. The distribution has been largely through the schools, but many organizations have interested themselves in the movement, as farmers' clubs, women's clubs, civic improvement leagues, etc. The Women's Club of Pontiac distributed two hundred and seventy-five. We prefer to distribute them through the schools.

"These trees have been distributed to nearly every portion of Michigan, Mr. Weidman, a prominent lumberman, sending one hundred to the Upper Peninsula. Several hundred have been sent to the burned over areas of Northeastern Michigan, some have been planted in the cities and along the roadside, but the most of them have been distributed to the farms. The demand this year exceeded our anticipation. Many farmers and organizations have been greatly interested in securing and distributing the seedlings, and some of the requests for seedlings have been very interesting, in that they show such a great desire on the part of the farmers to secure the trees, and it has been with extreme regret that we were obliged to return their money, because of lack of seedlings.

"This movement seems to be especially interesting in many ways and plans are being made to supply the demand the following season and to extend the work along other practical lines and apparent indications are that our slogan, 'A walnut tree for every farm,' will be a reality."

EXAMPLES OF SOME RECENT CORRESPONDENCE

FARMINGDALE, ILL., August 5, 1914.

I am interested in fruit and nuts of all kinds, but plant only for home use and experimentally.

I believe the chestnut is a better money nut here than the pecan, as natives here bear very sparsely and irregularly although the catkins or male part usually come out in great profusion.

I note that you say "there is probably not much use in trying to grow the pecan or Persian walnut outside the peach area." Here our pecan seems as hardy as the average apple, withstanding 25° below zero or more with little or no injury. I find that the "Andrus" Persian walnut is _much_ hardier than the "Pomeroy" as I planted two small one-year trees that endured the following winter 20° below, with no injury to even terminal buds. So twenty years may show a change of opinion as to the value of the Persian walnut in the Middle West.

The Japanese walnuts here are often injured by winter at 15° below, but there may be hardier types and varieties than those I have tried.

I have never been able to _graft_ the pecan successfully--annual or budding has given me the only success I have had. And in years like this and last, I find it very difficult to make a transplanted grafted pecan live without watering.

I have failed, so far, in finding a practical method to keep chestnuts in good eating and planting condition until spring. If stored in the ground cellar or as peach pits, they mould, if kept in an ordinary building they become too dry.

BENJAMIN BUCKMAN.

SOUTH WATERFORD, ME., November 21, 1914.

DEAR SIR:

I have just read in the last issue of the _Rural New-Yorker_ a very interesting article on nut growing, giving your name.

For several years I have thought that it would be better for people in the New England States to give more attention to nuts than so much to apples, but I have not been in a position to start in with nut trees much until now.

Although 65 years old and somewhat used up with rheumatism I am not ready to give up yet....

When I started on this farm it did not produce a barrel of grafted fruit. There were quite a lot of natural fruit trees that never had been trimmed or cared for in any way. I grafted these trees and set out some from time to time until now the farm produces from 500 to 800 barrels per year.

This year apples at picking time sold slow for $1.00 per barrel for No. 1's, No. 2's not wanted at any price.

I often think that if I had set out a few acres of nut trees 25 years ago they would have been more profit now than the whole 200-acre farm is....

Last spring on account of my lameness and the scarcity and the high price of farm help I sold my large farm and bought a small place.... Last spring I had about two acres of this land plowed up and during the summer thoroughly worked over with the idea of next spring setting it out to nut trees of some varieties that would do best here. Now I do not know anything about nut growing or what varieties best to plant. If you can help me out by putting me in a way to get this information you will confer a great favor.

UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE,
BUREAU OF STATISTICS,
(Agricultural Forecasts)
Office of the County Correspondent.

ISLE LA MOTTE, GRAND ISLE, VERMONT, December 10, 1914.

MY DEAR SIR:

I wish to set out several nut trees next spring here on this island in Lake Champlain. We have lots of hickory nuts, butternuts, hazelnuts and beechnuts growing wild here and Champlain says in his narrative that there were lots of fine chestnuts growing here 300 years ago. Now I want to try some chestnuts, black walnuts, English walnuts, pecans, and almonds. If you can tell me the hardiest varieties of each and where to get trees I shall be greatly obliged. I have my doubts about pecans and almonds but am willing to try them here. I am growing peaches here where they never grew before.

RICHMOND, VA., December 13, 1914.

DEAR SIR:

I am just commencing an enterprise in propagation of nut trees here just north of Richmond. I shall have plenty of time to do some experimental work in planting of unknown varieties and would like to do some such planting. I want any information I can get on varieties of English and black walnuts, hazelnuts, hickories and persimmons, "sloes" and any other varieties of currants. If I am not trespassing too much on your time please put me in touch with parties who can give me information. Please advise me if your association has any publications on the subject.

I am a retired civil engineer and my hobby has been all my life the study of forest trees. I am now in a position to do some planting and I should be very glad to coöperate with your association. I am here located exactly on the line of demarcation between northern and southern forest growths and I think I have exactly the location for experimental work....

NEW MILFORD, CONN., December 8, 1914.

MY DEAR DR. DEMING:

This morning I am sending, by parcel post, a sample of hickory nuts to compete for the prize which I saw has been offered by the association, of which you are secretary.

My father, while he was living, sent an exhibition of nuts to the Pan-American, also to the St. Louis Fair, and received the highest award given for nuts at both Expositions.

NEW LONDON, CONN., December 3, 1914.

DEAR SIR:

We are all elderly people, lacking energy to cultivate our farm land as closely as we ought. Some of us are interested in nut culture and have suggested that we plant some nuts and watch their growth from the very beginning. Of course, we only wish nuts of the best varieties and easiest culture. We only wish _hardy_ nuts, that do not need grafting, and we prefer those that come into bearing early. We do not wish any of the Mammoth dwarf, Japan chestnut. We bought a nice one, but it _will_ not mature its fruit, and is gradually dying. We find great difficulty in purchasing nuts. Those who have _trees_ for sale, refuse to sell the NUTS.

A person who has a few Japan walnut trees in connection with some other business, very kindly offered to sell us some nuts, and these are all we have been able to purchase so far. There are but very few nuts that we would attempt to try. We wish to find some of the very best of filberts or hazelnuts, that we shall probably cultivate in bush form. We are interested in the _hardy_, hard shell almonds. Do you think we could do anything with them? I _think_ they do not have to be grafted. Do you know of any species of English walnut or Madeira nut, that are perfectly hardy, and come into bearing early, that would serve our purpose?

I know we are asking quite a favor, for strangers, but if you will kindly assist us a little, we will thank you very much.

BROADWAY METHODIST CHURCH,
FARGO, N. D., November 10, 1914.

DEAR SIR:

I saw your statement in the _Southern Planter_ this morning and am writing, not to tell you where choice nut-specimens are to be obtained but to ask a few questions relative to the obtaining the _best_ information possible to the growing of nuts. I have a ten-acre tract about twelve miles straight south of Staunton, Va. When I purchased the tract the chestnut and hickory were thriving. I have had about one half of the property cleared and some trees planted. Among the trees are twelve hardy English walnuts from Green's Nursery, Rochester, N. Y., 6 "Mayo" and 6 "Pomeroy" walnuts from Glen Brothers, Rochester, N. Y. I am interested in nut-culture. I have inquired of Glen Brothers if the Kentish Cob would thrive there. They assure me it will. If there is a chance to make a success of nuts, I would turn my time and thought to the raising of walnuts and Kentish cobs and filberts. What would you advise? If you cannot give me the desired information, kindly give me directions to the one who can. I was brought up among the walnuts and filberts and cob-nuts in the County of Kent, England, and now my thoughts are turning to the delights of earlier days and I intend coming to the Shenandoah Valley in the near future and making my home there....

THE SECRETARY'S REPLY

GEORGETOWN, CONN., November 13, 1914.

MY DEAR MR. ----:

It gives me great pleasure to reply as well as I am able to your letter of November 10th. You are in the position of many thoughtful men of the present day in craving the peace and delight of a life that is nearer to nature. You have also a small tract of land in a favored part of our country, and you have been led to believe, by the statements that you have run across in chance sources, that the returns from nut growing may enable you to attain your ambition.

Our president has a place at Roundhill, Va., not very many miles from yours. He is a professor of something like "Efficiency" in the University of Pennsylvania. He is young, aggressive and very efficient himself. His father was, and he himself is, an orchardist and fruit grower. Both he and I have been for some years working at the problems of nut growing. But it is only this year that we seem to have overcome the difficulties of grafting and budding nut trees. We have the greatest faith in the future success of nut growing, but we do not know how long it will be before we shall know just what varieties of nuts to plant ourselves, least of all to advise others to plant, with any certainty of success. For the man, however, who realizes that nut growing in the North is still in the experimental stage, we have no end of information and advice.

The information you have had from interested sources is misleading. Probably you would not live long enough to get satisfactory results from the seedling trees you might plant, even if such results ever came. To get reasonably prompt and certain results from nut trees it is necessary to grow such trees grafted or budded from trees of known good bearing record, just as the same thing is necessary with the common fruit trees.

Your information about the Kentish cob and the filbert is but half the truth. The shrubs will thrive for a time in almost any place. But they have nowhere in the East been a success because sooner or later they are destroyed by a disease. One of our great nut growing wants is a filbert or hazel of good size and quality that has the blight resistant quality of our native hazel.

My advice to you then would be as follows. If it is your idea to make a living by nut growing on your ten acres in Virginia within a reasonable number of years, I do not advise you to attempt it. If you wish to take up nut growing as offering an occupation of the greatest interest, with opportunity for the solution of problems of great importance to mankind, and a fair promise of eventual money profit to yourself or to your heirs, then I should certainly advise you to take up nut growing.

I would not attempt to grow the hazel or the chestnut at present, except in an experimental way. The nuts of best promise for you are the Indiana or northern pecans and the English walnut. But it requires considerable study of the subject before one may take up the practice of nut growing without the probability of making unnecessary mistakes, and unnecessarily losing time and money in repeating the experiences of others.

The wilful misstatements of some nurserymen, and the ignorance or carelessness of others, has hindered the progress of nut growing. Fortunately we have several nurserymen who have made a study of the subject, who are honorable and truthful men, and on whose statements you may rely. The only possible qualification of this statement that I know of is that an allowance for enthusiasm might be borne in mind without risk of harm. I enclose a list of such nurserymen, accredited by this association.

Your letter seems to call for this extended reply which I hope will be of service to you. If I have left anything obscure that you would like to know about, or if I can assist you in any other way, please let me know.

With the hope that you may be able to take up this most fascinating avocation with pleasure and profit, I am

Very truly yours,

W. C. DEMING.

PRELIMINARY REPORT ON THE PERSIAN WALNUT

The secretary herewith presents a preliminary report on the investigation of the Persian walnut. No attempt has been made to collect information about the walnut on the Pacific Coast, which is quite another matter. But the investigation reports very briefly on trees from Canada to Georgia and from Massachusetts to Utah.

The result of the investigation so far is hardly more than a bare catalogue of the trees which the secretary has been able to locate, and is intended simply as an aid to further investigation. It is now published with the hope that members and others may become informed of Persian walnut trees that it may be possible for them to locate, observe and report upon. It is manifestly impossible for any one person, unless some paid agent of the government or other institution, to investigate many of these trees personally, they are scattered over such a wide area. Correspondence is usually unsatisfactory and personal investigation is the only way to get good results.

Probably only a small part of all the existing trees is here catalogued. But among them, and among the others that will come to light in the constantly widening investigation by an increasing number of interested persons, will certainly be found varieties of merit and adaption to different sections of the country.

As the meeting next year at Rochester is to give especial attention to the Persian walnut it is to be hoped that members and others will make special efforts to send to the meeting specimen nuts and reports of trees.

THE PERSIAN WALNUT

CANADA

Brantford--Dr. D. S. Sager. Knows at least 50 trees. Is top working native walnuts and other work. Grimbsy--H. K. Griffith. Bearing tree or trees. Grimbsy--Louisa Neller. Bearing tree or trees. Grimbsy East--Beverley Book. Bearing tree or trees. St. Catherins--Miss Alice Berger, 251 Queenston St. Several bearing trees. One tree 100-200 pounds annually. St. Catherins--Harper Secord, R. 2. Twenty-eight young seedlings. St. Catherins--James Titherington. Bearing tree or trees. St. Catherins--J. J. Fee, Niagara St. Bearing tree or trees. St. Catherins--F. D. Solvyne, Carleton St. Bearing tree or trees. Toronto--G. H. Corsan, University of Toronto. Many young walnut and other nut trees. "Hundreds of thousands being planted in Niagara Peninsula."

NEW YORK

Chappaqua--F. M. Clendenin. Just bearing few nuts after 8 years. Lockport--A. C. Pomeroy. Bearing orchard, seedlings. North Avon--Adelbert Thompson. Bearing orchard, seedlings, 225 trees. Hilton--E. B. Holden. Bearing trees. Rochester--B. F. Whitmore, 520 Park Ave. Three bearing trees. Holley--W. E. Howard. Four bearing trees. Knows of others. "Hundreds of trees." Canandaigua--Bradley Wynkoop. Bearing tree. Brockport--Marcus Cook, 90 Holley St. "Nearly 100 bearing trees within 5 miles of Brockport." Fairport--Pickering Bros., Some Pomeroys. Fairport--N. A. Baker. Victor--E. Y. Shilling. Bearing tree. Victor--A. B. Wood. Bearing tree. Victor--Josiah Snyder. Bearing tree. Watkins--Write E. C. Gabriel, Rock Stream. Tree reported by Prof. Corbett at N. Hector, 2 or 3 more east side of lake. Earlville--Francisco I. L. Mulligan. Twenty-nine Pomeroys and others. Hoosick Halls--A. A. Baker, R. 2. Knows of bearing tree near Long Island. Port Jefferson--Joseph Schriever. "Fine Specimen." Huntington--Historical Society. "Fine Specimen." Between Huntington and Centerport, on Gallows Hill, old Geo S. Conklin place, occupied by "Peachy," as reported by Uncle Jerry Wockers of the Ithaca _Journal_ office. Bearing tree. Oyster Bay--Joseph H. Sears. Bearing tree, reported by Henry Hicks. Oyster Bay--Mrs. W. H. Burgess. Bearing tree, reported by Henry Hicks. Glen Cove--John T. Pratt. Bearing tree, reported by Henry Hicks. Glen Cove--W. L. Harkness (Dosoris). Bearing tree, reported by Henry Hicks. Woodbury--L. Piquet. Bearing tree, reported by Henry Hicks. Roslyn--Admiral Aaron Ward. Bearing tree, reported by Henry Hicks. Hempstead--Rev. Chas Snedaker, St. George's Rectory. Bearing tree, reported by Henry Hicks. New York City, Westchester--Dr. Deming. Three Morris trees.

DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA

Washington--Barnes, Weaver, Kaingler, Stabler and other trees.

DELAWARE

Wilmington--Dr. Rumford. Smyrna--Walter L. Marks. Magnolia--J. B. Tisdale. One or more bearing trees. Reported by E. B and J. M. Reed, Fredonia. Millsboro--G. L. Ellis. Twenty miles away some trees.

NORTH CAROLINA

Carthage--I. W. Williamson. Few young trees. Carthage--John A. McLeod, R. 3. Pomona--J. Van Lindley. Several trees near Southern Pines.

OHIO

Cincinnati--I. B. Johnston. "About 50 trees near Cincinnati." Gypsum--H. G. Miller, of Wm. Miner and Son, Elmwood Fruit Farm. Two trees, 20 years old. Also young Pomeroy trees. "Several very large bearing trees within a few miles of here." Dayton--Fred Kircher, 221 S. McDonough St. Amherst--O. F. Witte, R. 2. Bearing tree. Middletown--Levi Leonard. One hundred seedlings. Knows of old trees in Lancaster Co., Pa.

NEW JERSEY

Lumberton--C. S. Ridgeway. "Peerless Paper Shell," 25 years, 50-100 pounds. Paterson--Thos. Rodgers, 236 W. 25th St., W. End. Bearing tree. Salem--Weber; write D. Harris Smith, Att'y. Rep. J. L. Doan. Haddonfield--J. Hutchinson. Raritan--Philip Lindsley, Box 350. Bearing tree. Flemington--Rev. Dr. Sonne. Bearing tree. Marlton--C. D. Barton. Knows good bearing trees. Moorestown--Charles Haines. Bearing tree. Delanco--Frank Jones. Bearing tree.

VIRGINIA

Williamsburg--D. S. Harris, Box 416, 33 Febrey. "Grafted." Williamsburg--J. A. Bechtel, R. 2. Mint Springs--Williams place. Two trees; rep. _Am. Nut. Jour._ 8, 14, p. 39. Lynchburg--Crockett. Roslyn--R. S. Carter, Box 41. Three trees. Emporia--H. W. Weiss. "Fifty trees on different farms; English, Japanese and black."

MARYLAND

Sandy Spring--Ava M. Stabler. Colton's Point--James K. Jones. See Circular of J. F. Jones. "Eight or ten bearing trees." Forest Hill--Wilmer P. Hoopes. Churchville--Alexis Smith. "Alexis." Sharon--Mrs. S. J. Poleet. "Sheffield." Berkeley--J. T. Smith. "Smith." Janettsville--David Hildt. "Beder." Vale--Kate Hooker. "Hooker." Baltimore--Franklin-Davis Nurseries. Princess-Anne--Ida M. Lankford. Bearing trees. Cooperstown--L. J. Onion, P. O. Sharon. "Sir Clair."

MASSACHUSETTS

Boston--Mrs. Schultz, 335 Cornell St., Roslindale, Boston. Bearing tree. Newburyport--Reported by C. F. Knight, Rowley. Bearing tree. Winchester--Brackett (Bro. of G. B. Brackett). Bearing trees.

NEW HAMPSHIRE

Keene--Reported by A. C. Pomeroy. Pomeroy trees. Newmarket--Alfred C. Durgin. Six Pomeroy, 2 Rush, "Supposed to be grafted." Enfield--Forest Colby. Some trees.

MICHIGAN

Mt. Pleasant--Myron A. Cobb, Central State Normal School. Has been distributing thousands of walnut seedlings. Coloma--W. C. Reed, Vincennes, Ind. Almont--F. P. Andrus. Bearing tree and seedlings. Augusta--Orville I. Miller. Buds from Andrus.

ALABAMA

Huntsville--Mr. Mayhew, Westchester, New York City. Reports tree.

TENNESSEE

Greenville--Wm. H. Brown, 516 Main St. Reports 3 trees, El. 1500.

GEORGIA

Sharpe--Paul Dyer. Reported by Prof. McHatton.

IDAHO

Boise--S. A. Gehman. Local bearing trees. C. C. Vincent, Ag. Exp. Sta.
Moscow.

UTAH

Lehi--Mrs. J. T. Winn. Several trees. Salt Lake City--J. T. Harwood (brother of above). Many bearing trees. Leon D. Batchelor, Horticulturist, Ag. Exp. Sta. Logan.

CORRESPONDENTS AND OTHERS INTERESTED IN NUT CULTURE

CALIFORNIA