Chapter III: Part 3

Picketing-pegs should be made out of hard wood about eighteen inches to two feet long; iron ones are dangerous. They should be driven into the ground in a slanting direction, the point towards and the head away from the animal, to resist the strain on it. If there are no tent-pegs, or the ground is so soft that there is no holding for them, a hole a couple of feet deep can be dug, and a bundle of straw or a couple of tent-pegs tied crossways buried in it, the earth trodden down, and the rope brought out at the surface. This will give ample holding, and may be practically tested, for although a vertical pull will easily bring it up, the strongest man will fail to move it if the strain is horizontal.

Leading-ropes (_bagh durie_).

Leading-ropes are things that ruin half the horses' mouths in India, and I never let such a thing into the stable. If they are used as they were originally intended to be, that is, buckled into the ring of the snaffle or watering bridle to lead the horse with, they do no harm; but it is impossible to prevent "syces" from passing them over the head and then back through both rings, so as to form a gag, and this they hang on to. I always make them use a leading-chain, which is a leather strap with about a foot of chain and a snap-hook at the end of it. The hook fastens into the ring of the snaffle, and they cannot well pass the strap over the head to turn it into a gag. It seems impossible to teach a "syce" how to lead a horse in a watering bridle, and I find these chains the best compromise.

Brushes and Gear.

The grooming utensils required in an Indian stable are very simple: a horse-brush, curry-comb, bucket, some dusters, and a hoof-picker, being the sum total; but only one of these last is required among five or six horses. It is best to get English bristle brushes, they last out two of the native fibre ones, and are very little more expensive. Good horse-brushes are made by several firms in Cawnpore, and, of course, when a large number are used, the saving is considerable if the country-made article is bought, but where only a small number are required, this is a false economy.

Curry-combs.

These an Indian "syce" cannot get on without, and although he only uses it to wear out the brush, still, after all, it does not do so very much harm; but a bad, lazy man, if he is not prevented, will use it to scrape the dirt off the horse with. Country-breds are generally very thin-skinned, and feel the comb very much if scarified with it, as the "syce" is very fond of doing; and I am positive that this practice in many cases has to account for much of the proverbial bad temper of these animals. The curry-comb should never be put on the horse's body at all, and in reality it is useless. If it can be managed, it is best not to give the "syces" such things, the only use of them being to clean the brush with, and this can be done just as well with the palm of the left hand, and the brush does not wear out so quickly; but it is the custom to use the comb, and it is hard to prevent it.

Buckets (_balti_).

Buckets can be bought anywhere. Zinc ones are better than tin, although perhaps a little more expensive; one should be provided for each horse.

Dusters (_jharans_).

Dusters are things that native servants of every sort seem to consume in enormous quantities, and unless some check is put on it, the number used at the end of the month will be astonishing. Either the old one should be produced before another is given, or else some contract be given to them to provide them for themselves; but the former plan is the best; if the contract system is adopted, filthy rags will be used. They are luckily exceedingly cheap, and are made nearly everywhere.

Hoof-picker (_sum khodna_).

A hoof-picker can be made out of almost any piece of rod-iron, and one should be hung up in every stable. One for every four or five horses is enough.

Clothing (_gurdaine_).

In Northern India, if horses are not clipped they require in the winter at least two thick rugs, and if they are clipped an extra one, as the climate from November to the end of February is bitterly cold. The ordinary country clothing, made out of "mundah," and sold in the bazaars, called "jhools," keeps horses warm and answers its purpose, and is cheap--a rug of this material costing about Rs. 3; but I think myself that it is false economy to get it, and that the horse-clothing made at the Muir or Elgin mills at Cawnpore, or the Egerton mills at Dhariwal, in the Punjab, although perhaps at first somewhat more expensive, will in the end be found the cheapest, as with care one suit of this will last many years, whereas the country clothing is seldom much good after a second winter's wear. This clothing is made in all sorts of colours, and turned out in suits, and is every bit as good as English manufactured. Country blankets (kumbal) can also be got; and the condemned soldiers' blankets, that are periodically sold by the military authorities, make excellent horse-rugs. I always think it best to get regular horse-clothing shaped and pieced out at the neck to buckle across the chest, or, at all events, to have one rug like this, even if the rest are ordinary square blankets, as the shaped clothing protects the front of the chest, which the square blanket will not do. The blanket can be used in the daytime, and the rug on the top at night, buckling across the chest, as leaving this part of the body exposed is a fruitful source of coughs and colds. Aprons, breast-pieces, and quarter-cords are seldom seen in India, except on race horses, and then only as a fancy matter.

Hoods (_khansilla_).

Hoods with hacks, harness horses, and polo ponies are not often required; but if horses are sensitive to cold, particularly if they are standing out at night, they are no doubt a great protection. They are made up of the same material as the country "jhool," and they also can be got to match the clothing made at any of the woollen mills. In any case it is a good thing to have a spare hood in the stable, even if it is not habitually used, as when a horse begins to cough if at once put on a severe cold is often averted.

Body-rollers (_paities_, or _farakis_).

Body-rollers are sold in the bazaar shops of native manufacture, but are most flimsy, and I strongly advise that either English ones, or else those made by any of the manufacturers of leather goods at Cawnpore, which are nearly as good as English ones, be used, although they may at first be a little more expensive. The common country rollers are always breaking, and never being properly stuffed, the webbing in the centre of the two pads presses on the ridge of the spine when the roller is buckled up. There is no more fruitful cause of sore backs than this, especially if horses are at all thin and standing out in the open. "Syces" have a trick of pulling up the straps of the roller as tight as possible, and if it gets wet with the dew or rain it shrinks up, and the tight webbing cuts and pinches the skin over the backbone, causing a sore back. With a properly made roller the pressure is taken on the sides of the back by the two pads, and the webbing does not come in contact with the skin at all. In any case, if the horses are standing out in the open at night, it is always advisable to go round the last thing and let the roller out a hole or two. If country rollers are used, direct pressure of the webbing on the spine can be taken off by putting a folded up duster or a handful of straw under it. If the back has been pinched or rubbed the roller should be left off, and the blankets or clothing kept in their place by a couple of tapes or pieces of string stitched to the edge of each and tied under the body.

Bandages (_puttie_).

Woollen bandages on the legs greatly add to the horse's comfort when standing out on a cold night. The ordinary ones sold in the bazaar answer well enough, only they are generally a little too wide and not long enough. The bandage should be put on commencing from below and finishing under the knee or hock, and not in the reverse direction, commencing above, as is often done. The tapes should be tied in a bow outside. What is known as the Newmarket bandage, made out of a semi-elastic woollen material, is an excellent one. It stretches somewhat when put on the leg, and gives it support. They, however, are somewhat expensive--about Rs. 4 a set--but with ordinary care will outlast several pairs of country ones. A good bandage is made by the Muir Mills Company at Cawnpore out of the cotton webbing called "newar"; they are very cheap and good, but are not so warm as the cotton ones.

Summer Clothing.

This is rather a superfluity, and, unless with race horses, is not usually indulged in, for at the time it could be worn it generally is so hot that the less the horse has on him the better. Usually one of the blankets used in the winter is kept to throw over him when standing about, or when walking back from work. Drill summer clothing can be obtained at any of the woollen mills in India in a variety of patterns, or a native tailor (durzie) will make it up in your own verandah if you give him a pattern. At least two suits per horse are required, as it very soon gets dirty in the warm season and requires washing.

Eye Fringes (_makieara_).

Eye fringes are absolutely necessary in India, and are used in parts of Australia to protect the eyes from the flies. They are fastened on to the cheek strap of the head collar with a small tab and button-hole in place of a brow band, and have a fringe of either leather or cotton cords that hang down over the eyes halfway to the nose. I prefer the cord ones; the fringes are always flat and in contact with the face, whereas the leather ones are liable to curl up at the ends and allow the flies to get underneath. The cotton ones are easier mended than the leather.

Fly Whisks (_chaurie_).

I always give each "syce" a fly whisk to keep flies off the horse while at exercise, or when he is holding him anywhere. They are very cheap, last a long time, and if not provided, the "syce" will arm himself with a dirty duster or rag of some sort for the purpose. I may, perhaps, be too sensitive on this point, but to see a dirty rag flourished about an otherwise well-turned-out animal is to me a great eyesore.

Cleaning Horse Clothing, and Storing it in the Summer.

It never enters the head of a "syce" that clothing requires to be cleaned. It should be frequently hung out in the sun and well beaten with a stick, like a carpet is, and then well brushed on both sides with a stiff clothes-brush. If necessary, it should be laid out flat and scrubbed with a brush and soap and water, rinsed out with cold water, as hot will make it shrink, and then, when dry again, beaten and brushed. The straps on pieced rugs should have some dubbing (momrogan) now and again rubbed into them, to prevent their getting hard and the leather perishing. Summer clothing should be sent to the washerman (dhobie) to be washed. During the summer months woollen clothing should be first cleaned, and then folded up and put away, some camphor, pepper, and leaves of the "neem" tree, that grows in every garden in Northern India, being placed between the folds to keep off the moths. They should be folded away on the top of a box, board, or table, or somewhere raised off the ground, to be out of the way of the white ants, and once a week be unfolded and hung out in the sun to air for a few hours, folded up, and stored away again. There is no occasion to waste the spices that are with them; if they are carefully unfolded over some newspapers, the whole can be collected and used again.

Numdahs.

If used at all, felt numdahs should have a plain edge, and not be bound with coloured tape, as they so often are; particularly the cheaper ones, that are sold by native saddlers. I have frequently seen sore backs caused by this tape binding, as well as the hair in white horses discoloured by the edge. When put on, the numdah should be well pulled up into the arch of the saddle, particularly in front. The common practice is to put the numdah flat on the back, and then the saddle on the top of it, so that when the weight comes on it, the numdah gets tight and is stretched, and is a common cause of sore backs and galled withers. When taken off the horse's back, the numdah should be spread out in the sun to dry; it should then be beaten with a stick and brushed with a hard brush to get the dry caked perspiration out of it, and to bring the nap of the felt up again. If this is not done it will get as hard as a board, and neglected numdahs are certain to give sore backs. If the saddle is properly stuffed and fitted to the horse's back, a numdah is not required, the only use of it being to save the lining of the saddle, and for this purpose I prefer a leather one.

Grooming (_malish_).

Grooming is an art that native grooms excel in. They have infinite patience, and their long supple fingers are peculiarly adapted for the work. They, furthermore, are used to it, for every Oriental is an adept at shampooing or massage, constantly doing it to their own limbs and those of their friends. When the horse comes in from work the bridle should be taken off him, hung up on a peg, and a watering bridle put into his mouth, the stirrup irons run up to the top of the leathers, and the girths slackened. If there is a breast-plate it can be taken off, but the saddle should not be removed till the back gets cool. According to the season of the year, a light or warm rug should be thrown over the quarters, and the horse walked about till he gets cool. If there is much mud sticking on him, it can be rubbed off with a wisp of straw before the brush is used. Horses should not be washed, or, if they are, only under very exceptional circumstances, when specially ordered. It is, however, a favourite practice among "syces," as it saves a good deal of trouble; and it is much easier to wash off mud and dirt than to remove it with the brush, as ought to be done; they are also very apt to use the curry-comb for this purpose. When the horse is cool he should be gone over with the brush, to remove what dirt is remaining, and when this is finished the process should be repeated with the hands, the palm and bend of the wrist being used for this purpose. If it is the hot weather, the grooming had best be done out-of-doors; but in winter it is best to do it in the stable, as in Northern India there is a cold wind blowing even in the middle of the day, and if exposed to it horses are liable to catch cold. As soon as the grooming is finished, which with a clipped horse can be done in about half an hour, the clothing and bandages should be put on, and, if it is evening, the bed put down. Even if not worked, this process of grooming should take place twice a day--before the morning and evening feed.

Wisps and Grooming Pads.

Straw wisps or leather pads are particularly useful in developing the muscle of a thin animal, or bringing the skin into order when it has been neglected. The wisps are made by twisting some of the bedding straw together into a rope about three feet long. This is then doubled in the middle and again twisted, so as to form a flat pad. Two of these wisps are used, one in each hand, and they are alternately brought down with a slight slap and drawing motion in the direction of the hair, the whole body being massaged with them. It is sometimes a good plan, if there is much dirt in the coat, to cover the pad with a damp duster; the dirt seems to stick to it. This is particularly useful when horses are changing their coats; the hair sticks to the damp cloth, and the old coat is brought out quicker than it otherwise would be. The grooming pads are used in the same way. They are two circles of leather about four or five inches in diameter, joined together with a strip of chamois leather about three inches wide, so as to form a pad or cushion, that is stuffed with tow. On one side a piece of leather or webbing is stitched at each end, sufficiently loose to allow the hand to be slipped under it in the same way as the horse brush. Two of these pads are used, and the skin beaten or massaged by each hand alternately. Although, perhaps, at first horses are fidgety, when they get used to it they appear to enjoy it; and it has the advantage of letting the owner know, if he is not in sight, that the "syce" is working by the noise he makes.

Hand-rubbing.

If horses are inclined to get filled on swollen legs, the tendons should be well hand-rubbed for five minutes at each grooming hour. This hand-rubbing should commence from the lower portion of the limb and be continued upwards, not in the reverse direction, which is the usual practice. The limb should be lifted up, and the fingers worked with a kneading motion behind the tendons.

Washing.

The feet, mane and tail are the only parts that should ever be washed, unless specially ordered, and then as seldom as possible. When the feet are washed, great care should be taken that they are carefully dried afterwards, and bandages put on, as leaving the legs wet is one of the chief causes of cracked heels, more especially in the winter months, if there is a dry cold wind blowing. If soap is used, it should be soft-soap; or, better still, the soap nut, or "reita." This is a berry, the shell or outer covering of which, when soaked in water, swells up into a sticky mass, that lathers like soap, and by natives of India is used for washing purposes.

Uneven Manes.

When the mane gets ragged and uneven, it should be carefully brushed down four or five times a day with a damp water brush, to make it lie flat. The long hairs on the under side next the neck should be pulled out, so that the mane is thinned, and the lower part lies in a perfect curve along the neck. Some horses object, and are a little troublesome during this process; but, if it is done gradually, it can be easily accomplished. The long hairs in the mane should never be cut, unless it is intended to clip it off altogether, and make it into a "hogged" mane. If the mane will not lie down flat with an even sweep, it can be covered with a cake of mud for four or five days, when it should be removed, and renewed if necessary. Being dry, it will crack, and the pieces can be easily knocked off, and the dust brushed out. The mud cake generally has the desired effect after having been applied four or five times.

Hogged Manes.

The manes of polo ponies and cobs it is the fashion to "hog," or cut off close to the neck. It is best to leave the forelock, as it gives a certain protection against the flies and glare of the sun; also, to leave a lock of hair on the wither, to grasp with the hand when mounting. The best implement to hog a mane with is a pair of ordinary horse-clippers, but don't use a new pair, or they will get spoiled; old ones that are no use for the rest of the body, do well enough. It is best to sit on the animal's back when the mane is being hogged, and to cut forwards; the hair will be cut much smoother, and a neater job made of it than when standing on the ground at the side.

Ragged Legs.

If the horse is not clipped, the long hairs at the back of the legs look very unsightly. They should be pulled out, not cut off. If a little powdered resin is rubbed on the finger and thumb, the hair will stick to it, and come out much more easily, and the legs will have a smooth, even appearance, which can never be attained if they are cut off with scissors, no matter how carefully this is done; there will always be jagged ridges left. The long hairs under the jowl can be singed off by passing a lighted candle under the jaw once or twice. If the horse is at all frightened at the candle, he can be blindfolded; but the operation is so quick, that generally it is all over before he is aware of what is being done. The long hairs on the muzzle and chin can be clipped off with a pair of ordinary scissors. If the horse is not clipped all over, attention to these one or two little details make all the difference in his appearance, and in his being turned out smart, or the reverse.

Trimming Tails.

The tail should be grasped close to the root with one hand, which is run down so that the hairs are all gathered together, and a string or tape tied round below the fleshy part at the tip. The tail should then be drawn out straight, and the hair cut off with a single sweep of a sharp knife just below where the string is tied. The blade of the knife must be long enough to give a drawing sweep, which an ordinary pocket-knife will not do. There is nothing better for this than a sharp native sword, or "tulwar," as it is long enough to cut through all the hair at one stroke; or, failing a sword, a sharp carving-knife will do, the longer in the blade the better. Any uneven ends of hair that remain can afterwards be trimmed off with a pair of scissors; or, better still, by a pair of sheep shears. Tail-cutting machines are sold with an arrangement to fix the hair of the tail with a clamp, on which there is a sliding cutting-blade. These cut the hair off very smoothly and evenly; the only drawback is that they are somewhat expensive, costing about Rs. 16 in Calcutta or Bombay.

Clipping.

Arabs and many country-breds carry such fine coats that they do not require clipping, but most Australians and colonials do; and if the coat is at all inclined to get long and thick, it certainly should be taken off, for horse-clothing is so cheap that an extra rug can always be got. Horses should not be clipped till the coat has "set," _i.e._ till the long winter coat has grown, and no more hairs will come off when the hand is rubbed over the skin. This is generally about the beginning of October in Northern India. They will generally require clipping twice or three times during the winter, or up to the middle of March. There are generally some professional clippers in every station, who bring their own clipping-machines, and charge about two or three rupees for a pony, and an extra rupee for a horse each time; or, if there is not such an individual about, permission can generally be obtained to have it done by any of the cavalry regiments in the station. It should be remembered that horses having just lost their coats will require an extra rug that night.

Cleaning the Sheath.

The owner must himself occasionally see that the horse's sheath is washed out. "Syces" never think this necessary, and the part gets into a filthy, dirty state, that in the summer months is likely to give rise to a troublesome sore, called a "bursattee" ulcer. Some horses are very troublesome to do this with, and it may be necessary to put on a twitch ("kinch mhal"); but this should always be done in the owner's presence.

Light in Stables.

With a new-comer, "syces" usually ask for oil to burn in a native earthenware lamp (charragh) at night, but it is a thing I never allow. In the first place, even if the lamp was kept burning, it is not required; horses rest better in the dark. In the second, it is dangerous with so much inflammable material about. In the third, the lamp will not be used in the stable, but the "syce's" own house. If a light is ever required, which is only on rare occasions, it is better to bring a lantern out of the house; and in India there is always a hurricane-lantern to be found in every house.

Fires in Verandahs.

"Syces" are very fond of lighting fires and making cooking places in the verandah of the stable, but this I never allow, as it litters the place up with cooking pots, and makes a great mess; also, it is dangerous. I always make them carry on their cooking operations in the verandahs of their own houses.

SADDLERY, HARNESS, CARRIAGES, AND SERVANTS.

Saddles (_zin_) and Harness (_saz_).

Saddles, harness, and all leatherwork requires a good deal more care and attention in India than in England, especially during the hot season, when the fierce dry heat will dry up and perish all sorts of leather; and in the rains, especially in Southern India, where the atmosphere is so loaded with moisture that leather, put on one side and neglected for a very few days, soon becomes covered with mildew. There are no saddle rooms in Indian stables, and it is usual to keep them in a corner of a room in the house on a wooden saddle-stand, called by natives a "ghorra" horse. In the rains, a pan or brazier of burning charcoal should be kept in the room for a few hours daily, if there is not a fire-place. Saddles are cleaned in the same way as in England, and excellent saddle soap and dubbing is made by the North-west Province Soap Works at Meerut, and can be obtained almost anywhere. If this is not used, the "syces" can always make up dubbing of their own, called "momrogan." Some people give their head "syce" a monthly allowance to provide dubbing, soap, bathbrick, oil, etc.; but as they frequently put lime and bleaching materials with it, I prefer to buy it myself, and let them get the other articles. They require a chamoise leather and a burnisher for steel-work, but one of each will do for a stable of half a dozen horses, and very good country-made leathers (sabur) can be got for from one to one and a half rupees. The soap is put on to and rubbed into leather-work with the hands; but the great fault they have is that they will put on too much, and won't work it in enough, and one's breeches and hands will get into a great mess.

Saddle Covers (_buk bund_).

A sheet, made out of a description of coarse country cloth (karwah), is necessary for each saddle or set of harness, to wrap it up in, and keep the dust and dirt off. It should be sufficiently large to wrap the saddle up in completely, and in the summer the "syce" can bring it with him to act as a horse-cloth to throw over the quarters when standing about. These saddle-sheets can be made by any tailor in a few hours.

Bridles.

Bridles, double (dahna), snaffle (kazai), can be hung up on the walls, but a piece of cloth or a few sheets of paper should be fastened up behind them; and they should be frequently taken down if not in daily use, as the white ants are most destructive. It is best to have one or two extra saddle-stands made with pegs on them, and to hang the bridles on them in the middle of the room, away from the walls. This may be a little more expensive, but a saddle-stand can be brought for Rs. 5 that will hold a couple of dozen bridles, worth Rs. 20 apiece. At one time plated bits were used in India, but I think steel ones are the best. "Syces" never can tell the difference, and I have more than once found a plated bit being industriously scrubbed and polished with sand.

Harness.

Unless particularly desired, brown harness with brass mounts is the best--for India, at all events--for pony-harness, and it is this class of animal that is generally used in an up-country station. Not one "syce" in a hundred knows how to clean black harness properly, and if this is not done nothing looks worse, whereas almost any native can clean brown leather after a fashion, and even if it does not stand close inspection, it will pass muster at a little distance. Fairly good brown harness is made out of country leather, and it does well enough for rough work, but it never has the finish of English. Country leather reins and country bits should never be used; they are not reliable, and are most dangerous; these should always be English.

Carriages.

The ordinary two-wheeled pony-trap or dogcart, used in an up-country Indian station, is best varnished, not painted. The hot weather ruins paint, and, unless in some of the very large towns, it is nearly impossible to get them properly repainted again. Any native workman can, however, varnish a trap with white or copal varnish. Before allowing new varnish to be put on, the trap should be produced for inspection with the old scraped off, as it is a favourite trick to daub new varnish over the old, when it cannot properly set, and the first hot sun cracks and blisters it. In the hot weather a large earthen basin, called a "naund," should be kept full of water under the carriage in the coach-house; the evaporation of the water will keep the woodwork moist, and prevent its cracking with the heat. A matting made of the fibres of the "khus khus," or lemon grass, should also be put round the nave of the wheel, and kept wet, for the same purpose, as it is exceedingly likely to crack with the heat. The shafts of the trap should not be left resting on the ground, as they will warp and bend; they should be supported either by a wooden trestle, or else by a couple of ropes from the beams of the roof. The whip, when not in use, should be hung by a string at the upper part to a nail in the wall, and a weight, such as a brick, tied to the butt end to keep it straight; otherwise, in a very short time, it will get crooked.

Servants.

Indian "syces" are different to English grooms, as the new arrival will soon find. They have peculiar customs of their own, which, like all Orientals, they cling to tenaciously, and will not give up. If they are understood they are easily managed, and work well; but if not, the horse-owner's life is a burden to him, for no European can overcome the passive resistance of the Oriental. In the first place, I never let any of the house servants interfere with the stable. Many persons, particularly those new to the country, do everything through their head servant, or "bearer"; but I make him stick to his own work, which is the control of the house and the house servants. I pick out one of the best and sharpest of the "syces," changing him till I get a good man, making him the head or "jemedar syce," and paying him a rupee a month more wages than the rest; and he is responsible for everything connected with the horses, and any small bills I pay to him, and him alone. The wages I pay myself to each man regularly on the seventh of the month, for the month previously. I never lift my hand to a servant, or fine him under any pretext, as the fine will only be made up out of the horse's grain, but, if fault has to be found, I do so in the presence of the head man; on the second occasion a warning is given, and on the third the offender is dismissed on the spot. I always keep a "syce" and a "grass-cutter" for each horse. It is possible to get a "syce" and two "grass-cutters" to look after two horses, by paying the "syce" a rupee a month more; but the arrangement is not satisfactory, although many do it. If the "syce" gets ill, which they often do, there is no one to do his work, whereas, if there is a man to each horse, they will arrange the extra work among themselves. In Northern India "syces" and "grass-cutters" should be provided with warm woollen clothes in the winter. An excellent cloth for the purpose is made by the various woollen mills, and at most of them servant's clothes can be bought ready made up; but it is best to give the men the materials and let them get them made up themselves, otherwise there is certain to be something wrong with them. A "syce's" coat costs about Rs. 4, and a "grass-cutter's," which is made out of a coarse blanketing, Rs. 3; and these coats should last for two winters' wear. In addition, I used to give each man a "coolie" blanket that cost Rs. 3, and which would last three winters; and, if they had to go out much into camp, such as taking horses out to meet me on shooting or pig-sticking expeditions, a pair of woollen leg-bandages, or "putties." It is a mistake not to give servants warm clothes, and a false economy, as, if they are not properly protected against the cold, which is very severe in Northern India, they are everlastingly getting fever; and I know no greater nuisance than having your head man laid up for two or three days at a stretch. In the second place, if they have not warm clothes themselves, you can never tell if in the night they will not take the clothing off the horses to wrap themselves up in. A constant source of squabbling amongst Indian servants is the allotment of their huts or houses. In the older Indian bungalows there is usually enough of both these and stabling, but in the newer ones there is not. It is best, however, not to listen to any such complaints, and somehow the disputants settle the knotty point themselves. Every now and again it is advisable to see who is living in your compound, as a most enormous number of relations will turn up, who are known as brothers (bhai); and if you don't look out, you will find you are giving shelter on your premises to several hundred individuals. Indian servants are always asking leave to attend weddings, funerals, and religious ceremonies; and I always allow them to go, provided some arrangement is made to carry on their work. They are clannish in the extreme, and a substitute was always forthcoming. In the hills "grass-cutters" are not required, as grass can be bought in the bazaars. The country people look on the sale of this as a vested right, and naturally resent any outsider cutting it or interfering with them; and, if they do, there is pretty certain to be a disturbance and unpleasantness. If "grass-cutters" are preferred to purchasing the daily supply, local hillmen should be employed, who will arrange the matter with their neighbours, and not men brought up from the plains of India. In most hill stations passes or licences have to be obtained to cut grass. In every Indian station there is an official price-list of country produce published, and should any dispute arise as to the rates charged, it is as well to obtain it from the native magistrate (tehsildar), whose decision in such matters is usually accepted as final, and which generally saves an immense amount of trouble.

SHOEING.

Shoeing (_nal bundie_).

Shoeing is a subject on which a volume might be written of itself, far beyond the scope of this little work, and for further information on the art I would refer the reader to the treatises by Dr. Flemming and W. Hunting, Esq.; but as both these deal with European practice, I will only mention a few differences in the art as performed by the native smith, or "nal bund." In most large military stations where there are European troops, permission can generally be obtained to have horses shod at the regimental forge, but in out-of-the-way places the native artist has to be employed. All horses require shoeing at least once a month, and some oftener, as with some the horn grows quicker than others, and the hoof requires to be shortened oftener. In these cases, if the shoe is not worn out at the toe, it can be replaced after the foot is shortened; this is what the English smith calls "a remove," the native "khol bundi." It is advisable after work to lift up the foot and look if the shoes (nal) have shifted or not, also to examine the clench or point of the nail (preg) where it has been turned over, as it sometimes gets turned up and sticks out. If this happens on the inside of the hoof it is likely to cut the opposite fetlock (mawah lagna), and make a bad wound that may leave a permanent scar or blemish. Some horses, from bad formation, move their limbs so closely together that they always rub the fetlock joints when they move. This sometimes can be corrected by what is known as a brushing shoe; but some badly-shaped animals will always do it, no matter what sort of shoe is put on. Various forms of pads or brushing boots are sold to prevent this and protect the part; but, in my opinion, what is known as the Irish boot is the best. It consists of a thick piece of blanket, or "mundah," about six inches wide and the length of the circumference of the leg. This is fastened round the fetlock with a tape or string so that the ends are in the middle line of the leg behind, the upper half being doubled over the string so that there are two thicknesses to protect the fetlock joint. I have found this far better than the more elaborate contrivances sold; it is cheap--any one can make one in a few minutes--it does not collect mud and dirt like the others do, and it does not become hard like those boots made out of leather, which, unless carefully looked to and kept soft with soap (sabon) or dubbing (momrogan), are liable to cut horses badly. The only care required in putting on the Irish boot is not to tie it too tight, or the tapes may cut the skin. Some pieces of horn hanging loose, that are being cast off from the sole and frog in the natural process of growth, are often seen. These are very likely to collect dirt and moisture, and if they do they should be removed, but otherwise be left alone. They can generally be pulled off with the fingers, a piece of stick, or the hoof-picker. As a rule, in the plains of India the majority of horses do not require shoes on their hind feet, unless the roads are mended with stone, or the climate is very damp and the horn gets soft. In the rainy season, if much work is being done, they perhaps then require shoeing behind, but in the dry season the majority go just as well without. In the hills, where the paths are rocky and stony, horses, of course, require shoeing behind. Unlike the European, the native smith shoes what is called "cold," that is, he has a number of shoes in sizes from which he selects one as near a fit as possible, which he hammers into shape on a small anvil without heating it. Native shoes are generally perfectly plain, _i.e._ flat on both sides, and, unless specially made, are never "seated," _i.e._ sloped on the foot surface, or "bevelled," _i.e._ sloped on the ground surface. As a rule, the nail-holes are what the smith calls too fine, _i.e._ they are too near the outer rim of the iron, and to get a hold the shoe has to be brought back so that the horn projects over the iron. To obviate this the smith removes the toe with the rasp, thus weakening the horn at the very place where it is required to be strong. The shoes are generally somewhat too small also, and to get the nail to take hold they have to be set back in the same way as when the nail-holes are too fine. A native smith, unless he has been shown how, never knows how to turn down the point of the nail after it has been driven through the hoof to form the clench; he never cuts off the superfluous part, but turns it round in a curl with the pincers, and, needless to say, this is exceedingly likely to cause brushing. Another great fault is his fondness of pairing and slicing away the frog and sole, which he will have to be stopped in doing. I have seldom seen a horse pricked in shoeing by a native, but if left to themselves they never get the bearing true, and as a result corns are of common occurrence. Of course, such light shoes as those of native manufacture have not a great lot of wear in them, and in heavy, holding ground would pull off, but on the hard level plains of India they last well enough, and the native smith, if his faults are known and corrected, is not a bad workman after his own lights.

GLOSSARY OF HINDUSTANI WORDS.

ADARWAH, _parched barley_.

AGHARI, _a head rope_.

AKH-TA, _a gelding_.

BAD HAZMIE, _indigestion_, _dyspepsia_.

BAGH, _rein_.

BAGH DORIE, _leading-rope_.

BAJARA, _millet seed_.

BALTI, _bucket_.

BANIAH, _corn-dealer_.

BANS, _bamboo_.

BHAI, _brother_, _relative_.

BHERIE, _iron shackles for horse's legs_.

BHESTIE, _water carrier_.

BICHALIE, _bedding straw_.

BUK BUND, _saddle sheet_.

BURRADAH, _sawdust_.

CHARPOY, _native bedstead_.

CHARRAGH, _native oil lamp_.

CHATTIE, _earthen pot_.

CHAURIE, _fly-whisk_.

CHEIL, _to dig up grass_.

CHICK, _split bamboo window blind_.

CHICK-NA, _muzzle_.

CHOKER, _bran_.

CHUCKIE, _hand-mill_.

CHUNNA, _gram_.

CHURRIE, _dried shorgum stalk used for cattle fodder_.

COMPOUND, _enclosure round an Indian house_.

CULTEE, _the black gram used as horse food in Madras_.

DAH, _a bill-hook_.

DAH-NA, _a double bridle_.

DAST, _diarrhoea_.

DASTOUR, _custom_, _percentage_, _perquisites_.

DHAN, _unhusked rice_.

DHA NAH, _grain_.

DHOOB, _an Indian grass on which horses are fed_.

DHOOL, _a small leather bucket used for drawing water_.

DURZIE, _a tailor_.

FARAKIE, _body-roller_.

GAJAR, _carrots_.

GEHUN, _wheat_.

GHORRA, _horse_.

GHORRIE, _mare_.

GUDDA, _donkey_.

GUMALO, _earthen vessel shaped like a milk pan, holding about a gallon_.

GUNNA, _sugar-cane_.

GURDAINE, _horse-rug_.

HAWAH, _air_.

HOOKHA, _a pipe_.

HURRIALIE, _a species of grass_.

JAI, _oats_.

JAMP, _a straw screen_.

JARU, _a broom_.

JHARAN, _duster_.

JHOOL, _country horse clothing made out of felt_.

JONK, _leech_.

JOW, _barley_.

KALI NIMUK, _black salt_.

KAR WAH, _a sort of cotton cloth_.

KAZAI, _watering or snaffle bridle_.

KHAL, _linseed cake_.

KHANSILLA, _hood_.

KHASIL, _green food_.

KHAWID, _green food_.

KHOALIE, _charcoal_.

KHOL BUNDIE, _a remove in horse shoeing_.

KHUA, _a well_.

KHUS KHUS, _lemon grass_.

KICHER KE MUTTEE, _clay_.

KINCH MHAL, _twitch_.

KIRIM, _worm_, _weevil_.

KUMBAL, _blanket_.

KURLIE, _manger_.

KURPA, _a short iron hoe, used to dig grass with_.

KUTCHER, _mule_.

MALISH, _grooming_.

MAKE, _a wooden tent-peg_.

MAKIE-ARA, _eye-fringe to keep off flies_.

MAUND, _80 lbs. weight_.

MAWAH LAGNA, _brushing of the fetlocks_.

MISSA BHOOSA, _grain stalks crushed in thrashing_.

MOAT, _pulse grain_.

MOMROGAN, _dubbing_.

MOTE, _pulse grain_.

MUNG, _pulse grain_.

MUSSUK, _leather water-bag_.

MUTTIE, _earth_.

MUZZUMA, _leather heel-strap_.

NAL, _a horseshoe_.

NAL BUND, _a shoeing-smith_.

NAUND, _a large wide-mouthed earthen vessel holding several gallons_.

NEWAR, _cotton webbing_.

NIMMUK, _salt_.

NIRRICK, _the official price list_.

NUKTA, _head stall_.

NUMDAH, _felt pad for putting under a saddle_.

PAITE, _body-roller_.

PANI, _water_.

PECHARIE, _heel ropes_.

PREG, _nail_.

PUTTER KE NIMMUK, _rock salt_.

PUTTIE, _a roller bandage_.

RET, _sand_.

REITA, _soap nuts_.

RHAL, _linseed cake_.

ROLL KERNA, _to exercise_.

SABON, _soap_.

SABUR, _chamois leather_.

SAN, _a stallion_.

SAZ, _harness_.

SEER, _a two-pound weight_.

SHALGHAM, _turnip_.

SUFFAID BHOOSA, _wheat straw that has been crushed and broken in thrashing_.

SUM KHODNA, _hoof-picker_.

SUN, _tow or hemp_.

SYCE, _a groom_.

TOBRA, _a nose-bag_.

TOKAR, _to trip or stumble_.

TOKRIE, _a basket_.

TULWAR, _a curved native sword_.

ULSIE, _linseed_.

ZIN, _a saddle_.

LONDON: PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED,

STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS.

No. 78.

Telegrams: "MOFUSSIL, LONDON."

Established 1819.

A SELECTION FROM THE PUBLICATIONS OF

W. THACKER & CO.,
2, CREED LANE, LONDON, E.C.

AND

THACKER, SPINK & CO.,
CALCUTTA.

1897.

SHAW, VERO.

How to Choose a Dog, and How to Select a Puppy. With Notes on the Peculiarities and Characteristics of each Breed. By VERO SHAW, Author of "The Illustrated Book of the Dog," late Kennel Editor of the "Field." Crown 8vo., sewed, 1_s._ 6_d._

_The Stock Keeper._--"The price is within everybody's means, and needless to say the work is not of a pretentious nature. On the other hand, the text keeps the promise of the title, and the advice that is given is good. Each breed of dog has a chapter to itself, which opens with a few introductory remarks of a general nature: then follow the points briefly and plainly; next come average of the pup from six weeks old until he attains maturity. A couple of pages at the end of the work are devoted to the relation, and a few useful hints on buying, feeding, and breeding. Needless to add that like all Mr. Vero Shaw's writings on canine subjects the information is founded on practical experience and imparted in easy excellent English."

NUNN, VETY. CAPT. J. A.

Notes on Stable Management in India and the Colonies. Second Edition, revised and enlarged, with a Glossary. Crown 8vo., cloth, 3_s._ 6_d._

CONTENTS.--Food, Water, Air, and Ventilation. Grooming, Gear, etc.

THOMAS, HENRY SULLIVAN, F.L.S.

The Rod in India: being Hints how to obtain Sport, with remarks on the Natural History of Fish and their Culture. By HENRY SULLIVAN THOMAS, F.L.S. (Madras Civil Service, retired), Author of "Tank Angling in India." Third Edition. Demy 8vo., cloth. [_In the Press._

_Land and Water._--"A book to read for pleasure at home, as well as to use as a handbook of exceeding value to the angler who may be already there, or intending to visit India."

Capt. M. H. HAYES' BOOKS ON HORSES.

HAYES, CAPT. M. HORACE, F.R.C.V.S.

Veterinary Notes for Horse-Owners. An Illustrated Manual of Horse Medicine and Surgery, written in simple language. Fifth Edition. This Edition is revised throughout, considerably enlarged, and incorporates the substance of the Author's "Soundness and Age of Horses." Thick crown 8vo., buckram, 15_s._

_Saturday Review._--"Captain Hayes' work is a valuable addition to our stable literature; and the illustrations, tolerably numerous, are excellent beyond the reach of criticism."

_Times._--"A necessary guide for horse-owners, especially those who are far removed from immediate professional assistance."

_Field._--"Of the many popular veterinary books which have come under our notice, this is certainly one of the most scientific and reliable. If some painstaking student would give us works of equal merit to this on the diseases of the other domestic animals, we should possess a very complete veterinary library in a very small compass."

_Illustrated Sporting and Dramatic News._--"Simplicity is one of the most commendable features in the book. What Captain Hayes has to say he says in plain terms, and the book is a very useful one for everybody who is concerned with horses."

_Lancet._--"The usefulness of the manual is testified to by its popularity, and each edition has given evidence of increasing care on the part of the author to render it more complete and trustworthy as a book of reference for amateurs."

HAYES, CAPT. M. HORACE, F.R.C.V.S.

Indian Racing Reminiscences. Profusely Illustrated. Impl. 16mo., 3_s._ 6_d._

HAYES, CAPT. M. HORACE, F.R.C.V.S.

Points of the Horse. A familiar Treatise on Equine Conformation. Second Edition. Revised and enlarged. This edition has been thoroughly revised and contains numerous additions, including specially written Chapters on the Breeds of English and Foreign Horses. Illustrated by 200 reproductions of Photographs of Typical "Points" and Horses, and 205 Drawings by J. H. OSWALD BROWN. Super-royal 8vo., cloth, gilt top, 34_s._

Also a _LARGE PAPER EDITION_, strictly limited to One Hundred and Fifty Copies for England and the Colonies, numbered and signed by the Author. Demy 4to., art cloth, top edges gilt, uncut, 63s. net. [_Nearly all sold._

Press Opinions on the Second Edition.

_Times, Feb., 1897._--"The intrinsic value of the book, and high professional reputation of its author, should ensure this new edition a cordial welcome from Sportsmen and all lovers of the horse."

_Field._--"A year or two ago we had to speak in terms of praise of the first edition of this book, and we welcome the second and more complete issue. The first edition was out of print in six months, but, instead of reprinting it, Capt. Hayes thought it better to wait until he had enough material in hand to enable him to make to the second edition those additions and improvements he had proposed to himself to add. The result is in every way satisfactory, and in this handsome book the searcher after sound information on the make and shape of the horse will find what will be of the utmost use to him. Those who have been, or who contemplate being at no distant date, in the position of judges at horse shows, will derive great benefit from a careful perusal of Capt. Hayes's pages."

HAYES, CAPT. M. HORACE, F.R.C.V.S.

Illustrated Horsebreaking. Second Edition. This Edition has been entirely re-written; the amount of the letterpress more than doubled, and 75 reproductions of Photographs have been added. Impl. 16mo., buckram, 21_s._

_Field._--"It is a characteristic of all Captain Hayes' books on horses that they are eminently practical, and the present one is no exception to the rule. A work which is entitled to high praise as being far and away the best reasoned-out one on breaking under a new system we have seen."

_Veterinary Journal._--"The work is eminently practical and readable."

HAYES, CAPT. M. HORACE, F.R.C.V.S.

Riding: on the Flat and Across Country. A Guide to Practical Horsemanship. Impl. 16mo., cloth gilt., 10_s._ 6_d._

_Times._--"Captain Hayes' hints and instructions are useful aids, even to experienced riders, while for those less accustomed to the saddle, his instructions are simply invaluable."

_Standard._--"Captain Hayes is not only a master of his subject, but he knows how to aid others in gaming such a mastery as may be obtained by the study of a book."

_Field._--"We are not in the least surprised that a third edition of this useful and eminently practical book should be called for. On former occasions we were able to speak of it in terms of commendation, and this edition is worthy of equal praise."

_Baily's Magazine._--"An eminently practical teacher, whose theories are the outcome of experience, learned not in the study, but on the road, in the hunting field, and on the racecourse."

HAYES, CAPT. M. HORACE, F.R.C.V.S.

Training and Horse Management in India. Fifth Edition. Crown 8vo., cloth, 7_s._ 6_d._

_Saturday Review._--"A useful guide in regard to horses anywhere. Concise, practical, and portable."

_Veterinary Journal._--"We entertain a very high opinion of Captain Hayes' book on 'Horse Training and Management in India,' and are of opinion that no better guide could be placed in the hands of either amateur horseman or veterinary surgeon newly arrived in that important division of our empire."

_Field._--"We have always been able to commend Captain Hayes' books as being essentially practical and written in understandable language. As trainer, owner, and rider of horses on the flat and over country, the author has had a wide experience, and when to this is added competent veterinary knowledge, it is clear that Captain Hayes is entitled to attention when he speaks."

HAYES, Mrs. Edited by CAPT. M. H. HAYES.