Chapter II: Part 2

Of strictly agricultural lands, the quantity found is quite limited. At the mouth of Cedar Creek there are about twenty acres of overflowed land which could easily be reclaimed by dyking. Along Canoe Passage there is a considerably larger tract of tide-land, probably 150 acres, which from two to three feet of levee would protect from overflow. Proceeding northward there is no open country until Deleatlay* is reached, where there are about 900 acres of level land, about one-half of which is subject to overflow at high tides. This produces an abundant growth of meadow grass. It is situated about two miles southeast of the village of Massett. Passing over to the north coast there is a strip of grazing land from fifty to ten rods in width, narrowing as it is followed eastward, which extends from the village named, unbroken, for five or six miles along the immediate seashore. It produces a coarse sea blade bunch grass and affords considerable grazing. This tract comprises about 1,000 acres, most of which is of too uneven surface to admit of cultivation with the plow.

On the inlet extending from Skoonan River westward, there are about seventy-five acres of tide-lands which could be reclaimed by a short, inexpensive dyke. Near Yakan Point, to the eastward, there are about twenty acres of level meadow land, with a small patch adjoining, where the Indians have raised potatoes. In the meadow I found cranberry vines, upon which last season's fruit was still hanging. About one mile south-west of Tow Hill and half a mile from the sea shore, with timber intervening, there is a marsh containing about 200 acres, which could probably be drained and converted into good grass land. Here I also found cranberry vines in a flourishing condition and their fruit. Three or four miles back from the coast at this point, lies a tract of several hundred acres of swamp grass land, which by drainage, would afford considerable pasturage. A narrow strip of grazing land, from five to fifteen rods in width, extends for about three miles along the seashore, eastward from near the mouth of the Hi-ellen River. Five or six miles south-west of Rose Spit peninsula, I found a hay marsh of probably 150 acres.

Rose Spit peninsula embraces from 1200 to 1500 acres of rolling grazing land, portions of which are suited to agriculture. Immediately to the eastward of Long Lagoon there are about 200 acres of meadow land, a portion of which is quite low and wet. To the south and westward lies an irreclaimable swamp, covering from five to seven thousand acres, filled with dead trees, standing.

South of the Hoya-kund-la River, and near the seashore, there is about 250 acres of grazing land, interspersed with groves of small spruce. From the mouth of Tlell River, south and westward, there is a considerable body of grazing land, estimated at two thousand acres. It produces, besides the usual coarse sand grasses, a nutritious wild pea vine.

THE SOIL

Is uniformly sandy and of too recent formation to be much enriched by decomposition. It varies but little in quality, there being no alluvial deposits, owing to the flat character of the eastern portion of the island. There is no sub-soil, except in a few localities, sand and gravel extending down to the rock layers. As far as I penetrated the interior, the roots of the fallen trees exposed only sand, sea-washed stones and shells. Clay was observed at one or two points, for a short distance between Hoya-kund-la and Tlell Rivers, also a formation resembling peat.

TIMBER LANDS.

A forest of spruce, hemlock, cedar and cypress covers probably nine-tenths of the surface of the island. While in the aggregate, it embraces large quantities of merchantable timber, a comparatively small portion is available for lumbering operations. This is due to the scattering growth of the best trees, and also to their location upon streams either too small to float logs or blockaded by fallen trees. I am speaking, of course, only of that section of the island so far examined. There are very fine specimens of spruce and cedar upon all the streams mentioned flowing into Massett inlet. Spruce is much the most common, and is found in bodies of sufficient extent to warrant its manufacture into lumber on the shores of Canoe Passage, Grouse, Nedo and Watoon creeks. Some of the trees seen were from five to seven feet in diameter and of great height.

The cedar was found chiefly on the banks of the streams and borders of marshes and swamps. In following up the rivers and creeks, especially those flowing into Massett Inlet, I almost invariably found Indian trails, evidently made for getting out canoe logs, and poles for carving their tribal and family emblems. These trails, upon which considerable labor had been expended at the crossing of ravines and marshy places, extended only a short distance, seldom exceeding two miles, branching off here and there to the base of great cedars from which they had selected a choice section, and rough-hewn before dragging out.

The surface of the timber lands was generally covered from five to ten feet in depth with fallen trees, in all stages of decay, moss-grown, and half concealed by a thick growth of salal and salmonberry bushes. All of the streams which I followed up to their source, led into almost impassable swamps, through which progress at the rate of a mile an hour was difficult. Along the north and east shores of Graham Island, I saw but little timber of sufficient size and in bodies large enough to warrant the erection of a saw mill. The smallness and obstruction of the streams and the absence of harbors, renders its profitable utilization difficult. There is but little of the yellow cedar or cypress growing in the forest now described.

Scattering trees were seen at various points, especially along Massett Inlet, but no valuable tracts of it were found. It grows more upon the higher lands at the eastern base of the mountains on the western portion of the island. Besides the forest trees mentioned, there are occasional small bodies of alder, yew and crabapple trees seen, the latter bearing considerable fruit.

Of plants, the strawberry grows everywhere upon the open lands, producing small fruit of fine quality in moderate abundance.

HALIBUT AND SALMON

Abound in the waters traversed. I was surprised to find the Indians catching the former in Massett Inlet. Nedo and Watoon creeks, Skoonan, Hi-ellen and Tlell Rivers are all salmon streams, with fishing stations at their mouths.

TROUT

Are also found in all these streams and in the other creeks and brooks mentioned. Shell fish, clams, round and long, though not abundant on that part of the coast examined, may be obtained at several points thereon with but little difficulty.

GAME

Of some kinds abounds, especially geese, ducks and grouse. Black bear are numerous, their fresh tracks being frequently seen. There are no deer or rabbits, except those which have been brought to the island by Mr. McKenzie and others, which are reported to be increasing. No wolves or beasts of prey have ever been seen. There are no snakes, nor turtles, and very few frogs. Mosquitoes have not been troublesome, but are more numerous during the summer months.

THE WATER SUPPLY

So abundant, owing to the swamps filled with decaying trees, through which it flows, is generally highly colored, and though perhaps not unwholesome, is not very palatable. There are, however, exceptional streams, especially at Skidegate, which, having their sources in the hills, are clear and pure. There is, of course, no difficulty in obtaining an abundant supply of rain water, which is much used for drinking purposes at Massett.

It not being my purpose to elaborate upon the various resources of the island in this hasty sketch, but simply to indicate, as requested, the general results of my examination of that portion thus far traversed, the foregoing is respectfully submitted.

Your obedient servant,

NEWTON H. CHITTENDEN.

* * * * *

PROGRESS REPORT NUMBER TWO,

SKIDEGATE, Queen Charlotte Islands, June, 1884.

_Hon. Wm. Smithe, Chief Commissioner of Lands and Works of the Province of British Columbia:_--SIR--On the 5th of May, having secured the services of two Hyda Indians, one a native of Ninstints, the extreme southern village of the Hyda nation, familiar with the shores of the southern portion of Moresby, and also of Provost Island, and the other of Gold Harbor, well acquainted with the northwestern coast of Moresby Island, I proceeded from Skidegate by canoe southward, circumnavigating the islands above mentioned, and also crossing them from shore to shore at two different points, and penetrating inland sufficiently far in several other places to determine the general character of the section of country under examination. Our route was via Sand Spit Point, Copper Bay, the villages of Cumshewa and Skedance, Cumshewa Inlet, Louise Island, Selwyn Inlet, Talunkwan Island, Dana Inlet, Logan Inlet, Tanoo Island, the village of Tanoo or Laskeek, Bichardson Inlet, Darwin Sound, De La Beche Inlet, Hutton Inlet, Werner Bay, Huxley Island, Barnaby Island, Scudder Point, Granite Point, Skincuttle Inlet, Deluge Point, Collison Bay, Carpenter Bay and Forsyth Point, all on the east side of Moresby Island; thence across Houston Stewart Channel, around Provost Island, entering Provost and Luxana Bays and Seal Cove, rounding Cape St. James, and then along the west coast, northward, via the village of Ninstints, Henry and Robson Inlets, Grand View Inlet, Tassoo and Gold Harbors, to the southern or Canoe Passage of Skidegate Channel, through which, touching at the abandoned village of Cha-atl, we returned to Skidegate, the round trip of about 325 miles having been made in twenty-three days.

GENERAL PHYSICAL FEATURES.

Steep and often precipitous mountains, ranging in elevation from 800 to 4000 feet above the sea, rugged and rocky on their western slopes, densely covered with forests of spruce, hemlock and red cedar, extend from Skidegate to Cape St. James, and from Queen Charlotte Sound to the ocean, over all the islands, so far as my observation extended, except the comparatively small tracts as hereafter described. The small diameter of the islands south of Skidegate Channel leaves but little room at any point for an interior beyond the range of the human eye, when standing upon the summits of the highest mountains, after having traversed their shores. The latter are uniformly rock-bound, frequently bluff or precipitous for from 25 to 1500 feet, with generally very limited borders of level country, the base of the steep mountains reaching down to the sea, with but narrow foothill slopes. There are occasional short stretches of fine sandy beaches, especially on the bays and inlets. The streams flowing from the short water-sheds are small, but numerous, and without exception filled with fallen trees from near their mouth up. Their waters are generally rapid, clear and good. Trout are found in most of them, and a small, very excellent salmon is caught in considerable numbers in several of the largest.

The rivers which I followed to their sources, rise in lakes and small swampy mountain basins. There are many good harbours for small boats, and several which afford perfect security at all times for large vessels on the eastern shores of the islands traversed. Of these, Copper Bay, Gray Bay, Laskeek Bay, Crescent Inlet, Sedgwick Bay, Werner Bay, Island Bay, George Bay, Collison Bay, Carpenter Bay, Provost Bay, Luxana Bay, and Seal Cove are the most important. On the west shore of the islands, though the harbor advantages are much more limited in number, they are believed to afford safe anchoring grounds for sloops and vessels of considerable size during the severest storms from any quarter. Henry and Bobson Inlets, Tasso and Gold Harbors, from twenty-five to thirty miles apart, are the largest and best harbors on this coast. There is, I judge, sufficient water at their entrances to admit deep-draught vessels.

Besides these waters, there are several indentations, greater than shown on the charts, and others not marked thereon, where small boats may find shelter. Among the latter, Grand View Inlet, so named from the magnificent scenery surrounding it, situated about eight miles south of Tasso Harbor, is one of the securest retreats for small boats I have ever seen. When opposite the entrance, the rocky shore seemed to offer no landing place unless the storm should suddenly abate. Unexpectedly my Indian guides turned directly toward land, and ran through a narrow rock-bound passage into a little basin about fifty rods square, surrounded by mountains rising very precipitously from 1500 to 2500 feet in hight, down which were plunging ten cataracts, where the smallest canoe could lie in safety at all times. The west shore is much the boldest, presenting for considerable distances, almost perpendicular-faced mountain walls from 1000 to 1500 feet in hight.

THE AGRICULTURAL LANDS

Embraced in these islands aggregate but a few hundred acres, principally lying in small tracts at the heads of bays and inlets, mouths of streams, and on small benches at the base of the mountains. Most of the richest spots appear to have been cultivated at some time by the Indians for raising potatoes. The largest bodies of cleared arable land seen, contained not exceeding twenty acres. There are several thousand acres of lightly timbered spruce and alder lands, bordering the bays, inlets and streams, which might be cleared and brought under profitable cultivation for dairying and the raising of root crops, should the development of the other resources of the islands attract a sufficient population to create a home market for such products.

The most available and desirable of the lands of this character noticed, are situated upon Skidegate Inlet, Copper Bay, Alder Creek, four miles south, Gray Bay, along the central portions of the south shore of Cumshewa Inlet, Hutton Inlet, Henry and Robson Inlets, and on the narrows of Skidegate Channel.

GRAZING LANDS.

The level grazing country is also of small extent, a tract of about 400 acres situated on Sand Spit Point, south of the entrance to Skidegate Inlet, being much the largest found. It bears a scattering growth of coarse beach sand grass.

On the sides of the mountains, however, and in some places reaching up to their summit, are several thousand acres suited for stock ranges, producing a thicker growth of more nutritious grass, of the red-top variety.

Of such pasture lands we found about 1,000 acres in crossing from Hutton Inlet to Robson Inlet, surrounding a beautiful lake about a mile in length, and about 500 acres in each of the following bays, viz: Carpenter, Provost, Luxana, Henry and Robson, and also several hundred acres on the northern slope of the mountains lying south of Canoe Passage into Skidegate Channel.

TIMBER LANDS.

As already stated, a dense forest of spruce, hemlock and cedar covers nearly the whole surface of the country.

It contains in the aggregate great quantities of valuable timber, and many places where small mills could obtain an abundant supply of spruce, but no location I think, where a large lumber manufacturing establishment could be profitably operated. The Douglass fir and yellow cedar or cypress, furnishes the only lumber which can be profitably exported from the Province. The former is not found on the Queen Charlotte group of islands, and the latter does not grow in sufficient quantities south of Skidegate Inlet to furnish saw-logs in any considerable quantity. The best bodies of timber seen were on the south shore of Skidegate Inlet on a small stream flowing into Copper Bay on the north side of Louise Island, bordering a river flowing into Cumshewa Inlet, about ten miles west of the village of Skedance, on Hutton Inlet, Carpenter and Henry Bays.

FISH.

Nearly all of the choicest varieties of fish found in this region abound in the waters traversed. There are several halibut banks besides those located on the charts, where the Indians obtain the most abundant supplies of these, their principal article of food.

On the day of our arrival at Ninstints, the Indians returned with a large number caught upon banks opposite the central portion of the western shore of Provost Island. There are also banks off Sand Spit Point and Skedance. During the present spring, the Indians have caught a considerable number of black cod opposite Skidegate Channel, and also off the abandoned village of Kisson, on the north-west coast of Moresby Island. The waters just outside the entrance to Skidegate Inlet are the greatest known resort of the dog-fish on the coast; the only place where they are caught continuously from spring until fall in large numbers.

The extraction of their oil by the Skidegate Oil Company, to the amount of 35,000 to 40,000 gallons annually, give a profitable employment to a large number of Indians during the summer months.

We found Chief Skidegate and about twenty of his people catching their spring supply of a very fine small salmon, in the river flowing into Copper Bay, and met Chief Skedance _en route_ to a river flowing from the north side of Lyell Island into Cumshewa Inlet, for the same purpose. There is also a salmon stream emptying into that inlet on the north side near Conglomerate Point.

Upon one of the streams discharging into Hutton Inlet (which I named Portage Creek, from the fact that in former times when the natives were much more numerous, they sometimes carried their canoes across the island to Bobson Inlet), there was a stone dam, evidently built for salmon traps. We also saw where bear had eaten salmon near its banks.

Enormous quantities of mussels of great size, some measuring eight and ten inches in length, covered the shores in many places, and round clams are also abundant.

MINERALS.

I carefully examined the shores and banks of the streams wherever opportunity offered, but found no minerals except copper, at and in the vicinity of veins previously discovered on the shore of Copper Bay, and opposite Copper Island in Skincuttle Inlet.

GAME,

Especially geese and duck, were plentiful on the eastern shore. Many of the bays and inlets were alive with hair seal. So many were seen in the extreme southern bay indentation of the entire group of islands that we called it Seal Cove. Several sea otter swam within rifle range on the west coast, and land otter we chased upon shore and killed. Birds' eggs, which the natives gather in considerable quantities, we picked up by the dozens on several of the little islands.

Notwithstanding the disaffection which exists among the Indians upon the Nass, respecting their land rights, I have found the Hydas friendly to my undertaking, inviting me into their houses to sleep, both at Cumshewa and Ninstints, and presenting my guides with halibut, eggs, etc.

There are abundant evidences in abandoned villages, habitations and burial places, of their formerly having been quite populous, probably ten times their present numbers.

No country which I have ever visited affords greater natural resources of food supply from the sea and forest.

Respectfully, your obedient servant,

NEWTON H. CHITTENDEN.

* * * * *

PROGRESS REPORT NUMBER THREE,

SKIDEGATE, QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. OCTOBER, 1884.

_Hon. Wm. Smithe, Commissioner of Lands and Works of the Province of British Columbia:_

SIR:--Having completed the examination of the country bordering on Skidegate Inlet and Channel, embracing the southern portion of Graham Island, and the north end of Moresby, I proceeded to explore the west coast of Graham Island, North Island, the north coast of Graham island from Cape Knox eastward to Massett Inlet, also Viago Sound, Naden Harbor and Massett Inlet, penetrating to the heads of all of the inlets, bays, harbors and sounds, and following up the principal streams flowing into these waters from three to ten miles; concluding the circumnavigation of the islands at the mouth of the Yakoun River, that portion herein described, comprising a shore line of about five hundred miles.

GENERAL PHYSICAL FEATURES.

An intelligent Indian of whom I made inquiries concerning this country, replied, "there is no land, it is all mountains, forests and water." This statement is almost literally true so far as open lands are concerned, along the coast we are now describing, with the exception of the mountain pasturage as hereafter more specifically mentioned.

Mountains rising very precipitously from one to four thousand feet above the sea, generally thickly covered with the prevailing woods of the island, extend from Skidegate Channel northward for about forty-five miles, the country gradually sloping all along the north portion of Graham Island from fifteen to twenty miles from the coast south-ward The summits of this mountain range are generally from five to eight miles from the sea shore, the long western arms of Skidegate and Massett Inlets reaching to its eastern base. The immediate coast is uniformly rock-bound, with many sharp, jagged points extending far out to sea, with out-lying reefs white with breakers in stormy-weather. Most of the many

INLETS, SOUNDS, BAYS, POINTS, ISLANDS, RIVERS AND CREEKS between Skidegate Channel and Cape Knox, having been hitherto unknown, except to a few of the natives, they will lie briefly described in the order reached in advancing northward.

Indian names have been retained so far as known, but when these are of difficult pronunciation, or unknown, English names have been added; a star indicating such cases. First comes

GOODEL BAY--About three and one-half miles south of Buck Point, the extreme south-western land of Graham Island. It is about two miles in depth, with a beach of the finest sand on the island at its head. A small island surrounded with kelp lying about one hundred rods from shore, protects a good canoe landing in stormy weather. Here were I found racks for drying halibut, which are caught in abundance off this part of the coast. A fine clear stream about twenty feet in width entered the bay near by. Between three and four miles from shore and about the same distance south of

BUCK POINT, lies an island, called by the natives Guigats, a mile or more in length, which is probably the land marked on the Admiralty Chart as Buck Point, though shown thereon to be separated from Graham Island.

KE-OW INLET, the entrance to which is concealed by a high rocky point, until nearly opposite, extends in a north-westerly direction about four miles, with an average width of a mile-and-a-half. It is surrounded by high, steep mountains, down which several cataracts were plunging. A clear stream about twenty-five feet in width, with rocky rapids at its mouth discharges into the inlet at its head, Rounding

TSET-LA-KOON POINT--About four miles north-west of the entrance to the last named inlet--one of the most difficult for small boats to pass on the West Coast, (except by a canoe passage in very calm weather.) we next enter

CARTWRIGHT SOUND--This fine body of water, about two miles in width, extends five or six miles in an easterly direction, reaching to near the base of steep mountains from 1500 to 2500 feet in height. Its shores are generally rocky, though there is a sandy beach at its head, where we found a good landing and camping place at the mouth of Zuboff* river. This stream is from fifty to seventy-five feet in width, and navigable for canoes not exceeding one hundred rods, before meeting log obstructions. Large schools of dog salmon were rushing in and out at the time of our arrival, hundreds jumping their full length out of the water. Though much inferior to most other varieties of salmon, they are dried and a smoked in large quantities by the Indians.

An arm extends south-ward for about a mile from the south side of this Inlet, near its head to the base of high and very precipitous mountains, which from having four islets at its entrance, I have named Islet Inlet. There is also an island in the main inlet near the north shore about three miles from its entrance. Advancing and passing Kin-da-koon and Hunter Points, the latter a high, bold promontory bring us to

RENNELL SOUND, the largest indentation on the west coast of the island, extending about ten miles from its north point entrance in a south-easterly direction, and being from five to three miles in width.

It contains five islands, Edward Island,* the largest, centrally situated, about a mile and a-half in length with a good beach, camping place with a hut on its southern side,--and a group of four islands near its head; the largest of which I have called Cypress Island,* from having seen considerable yellow cedar growing thereon. There are five streams flowing into the sound, three in it south-easterly and two on its north-easterly side, from fifteen to thirty feet in width, none of them navigable. The only snow seen on Graham Island in September, lay in a deep canyon on the northern slope of the high mountains which surround it head.

There is an Indian hunters' lodge, chiefly made from yellow cedar plank, at the month of a small stream on a little bay on its south-eastern side.

TATTOO INLET, about two miles and three-quarters in length, with a uniform breadth of a mile, surrounded by steep, high mountains, runs in a north-easterly direction from near the north shore entrance of Rennell Sound. It receives two fine salmon streams at its head, from forty to fifty feet in width, navigable for canoes about fifty rods from their mouth. An extensive land slide has bared the mountain on its southeastern side. There is a little, low, rocky island, about a mile from the entrance, upon which numerous hair seal were basking at the time of our visit. Both shores at the entrance are bold and rocky.

SEAL INLET*--So called from having seen hundreds of hair seal upon Seal Island, near its entrance, is next reached. It is about four miles in length, running north-east, then north and again north-east, with an average breadth of a mile and-a-half. There are two streams flowing into it, one about forty feet in width at its head, and a smaller one on its southern side. Besides the island mentioned, there is a small one situated close to the north shore of the inlet--with only a canoe passage between--about a mile from the entrance, and a group of three islets opposite a high, perpendicular granite bluff near its head. This inlet is called by the Indians Kung-wa. Four or five miles further, with mountains rising almost perpendicularly a thousand feet on the right, around Na-wa-dun Point and we enter

T'KIEW BAY, about two miles in depth, with a fine stretch of sandy beach at its head. Two or three miles beyond the next point--called by the Indians Skwa-ka-tance--lies

NESTO or HIPPA ISLAND, a mile and a half or more in length, thickly wooded, mountainous, with rocky shores, except on its eastern side where there are short stretches of sandy beaches with back-lying benches, formerly occupied by Indian lodges. There is a small island situated close to Nesto on its north-western side, with a canoe passage between them.

Nesto Island lies across the entrance to a fine inlet and good harbor known among the Indians as

SKALOO INLET--It is about three and-a-half miles in depth, running a little north-east, with regular shores, having an average breadth of about three-quarters of a mile. A small stream empties into it at its head. Proceeding north-westerly past the old Indian village of Len-na-how and around Skoot-koon Point, four or five miles brings us to

ATHLOW INLET, a splendid harbor and very interesting body of water, between four and five miles in length, and from one to two miles in width, surrounded by high, precipitous mountains, embracing three of the most conspicuous peaks on the west coast; one to the north-west, quite green from its summit down a thousand feet, which I have named Green Mountain; another lying to the east, Castle Mountain* and one south-east, Bald Mountain.*

An island, about a mile in length, lies across the entrance in a north-westerly direction, which so thoroughly protects the inner waters of the inlet from westerly storms, that I have called it Protection Island.* There is a canoe passage between it and a point of rocks projecting from the southern shore of the inlet, and a small island close to its south-west side. Three streams flow into the inlet--one at its head, called Athlow river, and two on its south side, the largest, from forty to fifty feet in width, rising in Sook Lake. Between Athlow Inlet and Skoon-unagi Point, a distance of ten or twelve miles, there are four indentations, the largest being

BLUFF BAY, opening to the southward, at the northern entrance to Athlow Inlet, with a small island opposite.

Passing the point last mentioned, we are soon in the waters of

KIO-KATH-LI INLET, which, with the exception of Rennell Sound, is the largest indentation on the west shore of Graham Island, being over five miles in length and three miles in width; containing five islands and receiving three streams, from fifty to one hundred feet in width, the largest being navigable for canoes about a half a mile from its mouth. Its south-eastern shores are very irregular. Mount Richard,* the highest elevation in the north part of the island, lies to the eastward.

Between Kio-Kathli Inlet and Frederick Island, a distance of about twelve miles, there are four, bays from one to two miles in depth, with sandy beaches at their head, over which flow small streams--the first reached called by the Indians

STOWE HARBOR, being the only one affording protection for large vessels against westerly storms. The old abandoned village of Tiahn is situated facing the south, with a sandy beach fronting on the second indention north of Stowe Harbor.

The immediate coast from Kio-kath-li Inlet north-ward to Cape Knox, is less precipitous than further south, but more dangerous to navigators by reason of its many out-lying reefs and rocks and the absence of harbors.

CAVE BAY,* the first south of Frederick Island, so-named from a deep cave in a high, rocky bluff near its northern entrance, is the most extensive of those last mentioned, about two miles in depth, with a fine sandy beach on the east side. Three streams flow into the same, from fifteen to twenty-five feet in width.

There are three rocky islets near its southern entrance, inside of Point Patience,* which I have called the Sea Lion* Islets, these _mammal_ having been seen upon them by the native sea-otter hunters. There is a good canoe landing in pleasant weather on the shore opposite, but in stormy weather it breaks all around the bay. We barely escaped losing everything in effecting a landing at the most quiet place we could find.

FREDERICK ISLAND, from a mile-and-a-half to a mile-and-three-quarters in length, extending in a north-westerly direction, is situated about a mile north of Point Edward,* instead of south of it, as shown on the Admiralty Chart. It is thickly wooded, from fifty to three hundred feet in height, with rocky shores, except on its southern side, where we found a sheltered cove, with a sandy beach accessible in stormy weather. The site of the deserted village of Susk is seen on the south side of a small bay to the south-east of Frederick Island. There are five bays between Frederick Island and Cape Knox--a distance of eighteen or twenty miles--all of them exposed to westerly winds, excepting in small coves which afford safe canoe landings and harbors. Of these latter

TLEDOO, a summer resort of the Massett sea-otter hunters, where there are three cabins, is one of the best and most frequented. There are four rocky islets lying from half a mile to a mile off shore between Frederick Island and the cove, a distance of about four miles. There are two small streams within three miles south of Tledoo, and one within a quarter of a mile north, the first of the former being called "Boulder Creek,"* the second, "Islet,"* and the latter, "Otter Creek."* About two and a-half miles north east of Tledoo, around two rocky points lies

KLI-KA-KOON, a camping place on the south shore of a small bay, near the mouth of Hana-koot Creek. There is a sandy beach at the head of this bay, and another small stream flowing in on its northern side.

Around the next point and we enter See-al-tzing or Ezra Bay, about two miles in depth, having a sandy beach at its head and a small stream flowing into it. There are five rocky islets lying off shore, between the northern entrance to this bay and Saka-koon Point, at the southern entrance to

LEPAS BAY, the most extensive of the five mentioned, and the last before reaching Cape Knox. It is about three and one-half miles in depth and nearly as wide. There is a small island and cove on its north-eastern side, and beach of white sand at its head.

CAPE KNOX, the extreme north-western land of Graham Island, extends boldly out to sea about four miles in a south-westerly direction from the head of Lepas Bay. There are four off-lying rocks, the farthest out being over three miles from the cape, upon which the sea is almost always breaking.

Reaching Cape Knox, to the north-ward five or six miles may be seen the north-west point of

NORTH ISLAND--It is from five to six miles in length, with an average breadth of three and a-half miles, covered with spruce down to its irregular, rocky shores, its greatest elevation above the sea not exceeding four hundred feet.

There are four bays from one to two miles in depth on its eastern and north-eastern side, with beaches at their heads, which we named in the order reached in circumnavigating the island from Tadense eastward:--Clara,* Henry,* Edith and Albert Bays.* There is a small cabin on the shore of Edith Bay, with a garden patch adjoining. They are all exposed to easterly winds.

CLOAK BAY, on its south-western side, is much the largest indentation, but is open to westerly storms. The small cove on the south side of the island, near the Indian village of Tadense, is believed to afford the safest anchorage.

PARRY PASSAGE, about a mile and a-half in width, separates North from Graham Island, reefs, and Lucy Island narrowing the ship channel very rapid--except at flood tide--to less then 2000 feet. The deserted Indian villages of Ki-oos-ta and Kah-oh are situated near each other on the south shore of the passage.

It is about twenty miles from North Island to the entrance of Virago Sound. The coast and back-lying country for ten or fifteen miles, is low and thickly wooded; the shores being generally rocky with sharp points and many outlying rocks, surrounded with kelp, though there are occasional short beaches of gravel and sand. There are several exposed bays but no harbors, except for small boats, after leaving

BRUIN BAY, opening into the south-eastern entrance to Parry Passage. Here vessels sometimes anchor, though exposed to strong eddies. Rounding the next point we reach

PILLAR BAY, so-named from an isolated column of conglomerate rock, about a hundred feet in height, standing near its eastern side. It is three or four miles in width, and a mile and a-half in depth, but open to north-east winds. The

JALUN RIVER, the largest stream between North Island and Virago Sound, discharges into a small bay about four miles further eastward. It is from forty to fifty feet in width at its mouth, and navigable for canoes, not exceeding half a mile on account of rapids. Here were two huts, and a wooden boiler made from a hollowed log, for extracting dogfish oil with heated stones, this being a favorite camping place for the native fishermen and hunters.

KLAS-KWUN POINT--Seven or eight miles to the eastward from the mouth of Jalun River, there is a bold point rising a short distance back from the shore to two or three hundred feet, known as Klas-kwun Point, on the east side of which lies

YAT-ZA VILLAGE--It has the most rocky and difficult landing of any Indian village on the island, the sites of which are almost invariably on perfect little harbors. Passing Cape Naden, we now enter the waters of

VIRAGO SOUND--It is about eight miles in width and five in depth, and opening into Naden Sound through narrows less than half a mile in width, between Points George and Mary. The shores are low and thickly wooded, with spruce of small growth. Two small islets lie near its west side entrance. Virago Sound is exposed to all winds north of south-east and south-west, but safe anchorage may be found at all times in

NADEN HARBOR on the west side opposite the abandoned village of Kung. Naden Harbor is about five miles in length, north and south and two miles in width. Its shores are low, and generally sandy, except in its southern and north-western sides. There are nine streams flowing into it, with extensive tide flats at their mouths--which will be noticed in the order reached in following the right hand shore:

First, a small creek about half a mile east of the village of Kung, into which the high tide flows for half a mile or more.

The second empties into the harbor, about two miles southward of of the highest land bordering it, called Bain Point.

The third, a mile-and-a-half further westward, both small and unnavigable, and the fourth known as,

STANLEY OR TE-KA RIVER, into its most south-western bay. We were able to push our canoe up this stream, the second largest on the north shore of the island, about one-third of a mile, when log obstructions were found. About two miles in a south-easterly direction and we entered

NADEN RIVER, the second in size on the Queen Charlotte Islands, about a hundred and fifty feet in width at its mouth, up which we ascended between two and three miles to falls, with our canoe, at high tide, and advanced about six miles beyond on foot to the borders of Eden Lake, in which it rises, passing several rapids, from six to ten feet in height--and numerous log jambs. There are the ruins of five huts on the left bank of the river at its mouth. About a mile and-a-half north-eastward from Naden River, a small creek discharges into the harbor, and two miles beyond.

LIGNITE BROOK, with a small island opposite, at high tide. About two miles north of the latter, we crossed a small creek flowing into the deepest indentation of the harbor, which, being largely bare at low tide, we have named Tide Bay. From Cape Edensau, the eastern entrance to Virago Sound to

MASSETT INLET, a distance of about twelve miles, the shores are low and rocky; the back-lying country flat and thickly wooded with spruce and hemlock. There are four small islands near shore, the largest at the entrance to the inlet being known as Strice Island. Proceeding down its west shore about nineteen miles, to Massett Harbor or Sound we found four small streams, none of them navigable, except a few rods at high tide, named respectively:--Kowing, Kulin, Kitzhaun and Kuk. They have their source in swamps and small lakes, the back-lying country being low and thickly wooded. There are two islands in the inlet, the first called Massett, about three-quarters of a mile in length, situated near the west shore, about five miles from the entrance, and another fifteen miles down, about six miles long, called by the Indians Cub Island, with a canoe passage from the inlet, on its east side to Massett Harbor, as mentioned in Report No. 1.

MASSETT HARBOR or Sound, is a splendid body of inland water, about eighteen miles in length from east to west, and from five to seven miles in width, with upwards of two hundred miles of shore line, having seven arms from three to ten miles in length, containing over forty islands and islets, and receiving the waters of twenty-five rivers, creeks and small streams. Following the order of our movement along its western shore, parsing one small creek with an Indian lodge at its mouth, about seven miles from Ship Island, we reach the mouth of

AIN RIVER, opposite Kwa-kans Island and a group of islets. We ascended this stream about ten miles, five on foot and thence by canoe through two small lakes to its source in Soo-u-uns Lake. This fine body of water is about eight miles long and three miles wide, surrounded by a thick forest of spruce, red and yellow cedar. Mountains rise gradually from its western and north-western sides to the height of from eight to fifteen hundred feet. The river, from fifty to seventy-five feet in width, is navigable for canoes, about a mile from its mouth, and also between the small lakes mentioned, by means of several portages--log-jambs, shoals and rapids. There are seven Indian lodges at its mouth, this stream being a great resort for salmon.

It is about twelve miles from the mouth of the Ain River to the end of the north-western arm of the sound, which having no name on the chart, I have called

NEWTON INLET. It is about six miles in length, and two miles wide, with an island at its entrance, known as Mut-oos, and several islets. _En route_ we found two small streams, to the largest of which my attention was first attracted by the noise of rapids at its mouth. This is called by the Indians, Ta-tzun-in. Ascending it by wading, with considerable difficulty, its bed was seen to be chiefly limestone rock. There are two rivers flowing into Newton Inlet from fifty to seventy-five feet in width, navigable for canoes at high tide about half a mile, when shoal rapids are reached.

Steep mountains from 1,500 to 3,000 feet in height, separate this inlet from the waters of the Pacific. Five or six miles to the south-eastward begins

TI-IN-OWE INLET, which extends south-westerly between four and five miles, having an average breadth of two miles. Two streams flow in at its head, up the largest of which we ascended about one-third of a mile at high tide, when a log jamb was found. There are three inlets between Tin-in-owe and the entrance to Tsoo-skatli Inlet, about ten miles to the south-eastward, and many islands and islets, the largest of which is called Wat-hoo-us Island. Into the first of these inlets flows the Awun River, rising in Awun Lake, about one hundred feet wide at its month, and which we were able to ascend with our canoe about one mile, when rapids were reached. Advancing several miles beyond on foot, the river was found choked with frequent log jambs. There is an Indian cabin and small garden plat cultivated for potatoes, at its mouth. Proceeding eastward, we next enter a small bay into which descends, over a precipitous ledge of rocks, a river, the outlet of a small lake hidden from view by a narrow belt of timber; then follows a deeper indentation about a mile in length and half a mile in width to near its head, where an island narrows it for a short distance to less than a hundred feet. Having seen here the largest number of jelly fish found on the islands, I have named it Zoos Inlet.*

RAPIDS INLET,* or Lake, a small basin about half a mile in depth, which at low tide, discharges its waters with a loud noise down a steep rock-bound passage, not exceeding twenty feet in width, lies between Zoos Inlet and the point at its south-eastern entrance, which I have named Combe's Point. Five or six miles further bring us to

TSOO-KAT-LI INLET, which extends for about ten miles in a south-westerly direction, varying from three and a-half to two miles in width, containing over twenty-five islands, one of the largest, of which situated at the entrance, I have named Entrance Island.*

Four streams flow into this inlet at and near its head, the largest of which, Tat-lim-in, we ascended about one-eighth of of a mile to rapids, with the canoe, and three miles further on foot, finding a succession of rapids, shoals and log-jambs. Ma-min River, about sixty feet wide and filled with logs to near its mouth, empties into the south-eastern part of the inlet. About six miles east of Entrance Island, we reach the mouth of the

YA-KOUN RIVER, the largest stream on the Queen Charlotte Islands. It rises in Ya-koun Lake, seven days' travel distant by canoe, over scores of portages. It is about one hundred feet wide at its mouth, and navigable for small boats without obstructions, a mile and-a-half, beyond which, by means of two very small canoes and several portages, we ascended about five miles.

AGRICULTURAL LANDS--The resources of the west coast, Virago Sound and Massett Inlet country, so far as known at present, are fish, furs and timber. Its agricultural lands, chiefly those portions of deltas and meadows at the mouths of streams not subject to overflow, embrace in the aggregate, only a few hundred acres, the largest tracts on the west coast, lying at the head of Kio-kath-li, Tattoo and Athlow Inlets, not exceeding twenty acres.

There are about one hundred acres of tide meadows on Virago Sound, forty acres at the mouth of Nadeu River, twenty acres along the coast, at and near the entrance to Lignite Brook, ten acres between Naden and Stanly Rivers and the balance at the mouths of the other streams before mentioned. That portion of Massett Inlet herein described, contains about 250 acres of tide meadow lands, the largest tracts from five to twenty acres each, lying at the heads of Newton, Tin-in-owe and Tsoo-Skatli Inlets, and mouths of the Mamin and Ya-koun Rivers. The latter stream has an extensive delta of tide land, fifty or sixty acres of which could be reclaimed by dyking.

The bottom lands of the west coast, which might be brought under cultivation by expensive clearing, are limited to comparatively small tracts at the heads of inlets, their sides being generally precipitous and rocky. Portions of the low lands along the north coast of the island, on Virago Sound and Massett Inlet, being comparatively lightly timbered, might be reclaimed, for agricultural purposes. The

GRAZING LANDS of the west coast, with the exception of small tracts of a few acres on the shore, lie on the sides and tops of the mountains, located in estimated quantities, as follows: 300 acres on the north side of Ke-ow Inlet; 500 acres near the head of Seal Inlet; 200 acres on Skaloo Inlet; 3000 acres on Athlow Inlet--principally on its southern side--and a few hundred acres on the summits of the mountains to the northward.

TIMBER LANDS. There is no merchantable timber, on the west coast of Graham Island, excepting spruce, which is found in moderate quantities at the head of Rennell and Cartwright Sounds, and the inlets to the southward. We examined with considerable care those localities where yellow cedar had been reported, crossing on foot from Athlow to Skaloo Inlet, finding small bodies of scrubby growth on the shores of each, also on Tattoo Inlet, but much the largest quantity on Cypress Island, Kio-kathli Inlet.

The timber on the north shore of Graham Island, including Virago Sound, is generally light. From three to eight miles up the Naden River, however, we found considerable bodies of good spruce and red cedar. Its utilization would be attended with great expense, owing to the exceeding roughness of the country and the log jambs, shoals and rapids of the river. Massett Inlet and Harbor contains a much larger quantity of available spruce and red cedar, the best tracts of which were found on the east side of the inlet opposite Cub Island, along the banks of the Ain, Awun, Ma-min and Yakoun Rivers, and on the inlets previously described. The largest quantity of yellow cedar seen was on Soos-u-uns Lake, which is believed to be too small to warrant the expenditure necessary to obtain it.

FISH. Hallibut, herring, salmon, salmon trout, and dog fish are caught in unlimited quantities in the waters described, also black cod or skill, all along the west coast of the islands.

MINERALS.--No minerals except coal are known to exist in the country herein described, of which no veins hitherto undiscovered have been found.

FUR-BEARING ANIMALS, especially bear, land otter and martin are very numerous. Since the abandonment of the west coast by the Indians for permanent residence, being but little trapped and hunted, they have increased rapidly. We found large numbers of old bear and martin traps along the streams and on the coast in the neighborhood of their old villages. Fur seal are killed in considerable numbers, and a few sea otter, from fifteen to twenty each season.

WATER FOWL.--Wild geese were very numerous in Massett Inlet, Naden Harbor, and the southern inlets of the west coast. Comparatively few ducks, however, were seen.

WATER.--Nearly all the streams from Athlow River, northward, and also those of North Island, Virago Sound and Massett Inlet to the head of its South-western arms are of a dark reddish color.

THE CLIMATE of the west coast is exceedingly variable--stormy, squally weather prevailing during the greater portion of the year, the rainfall ranging from sixty to seventy inches. The Virago Sound and Massett Inlet country lying to the east of of the mountains possesses a much more equable and desirable climate, the annual rainfall seldom exceeding forty-five inches, except at the heads of the inlets.

Very Respectfully

Your obedient servant,

NEWTON H. CHITTENDEN.

* * * * *

PROGRESS REPORT NUMBER FOUR.

SKIDEGATE, Queen Charlotte Islands, October, 1884.

_Hon. Wm. Smithe, Chief Commissioner of Lands and Works of the Province of British Columbia:_--SIR--After returning to Skidegate from the exploration of the islands of the Queen Charlotte group lying to the southward, I devoted about one month to the examination of Skidegate Inlet, Skidegate Channel, the Canoe Passage from the latter to the west coast, and to the country bordering these waters, embracing the southern portion of Graham and the north end of Moresby islands. For this purpose, I traversed their entire shores, and penetrated from three to eight miles inland at various points, following up the principal streams flowing into these waters, and visiting also the Cowgits coal mine, the Slate Chuck quarry, the Indian villages, fishing camps, and other places of interest.

SKIDEGATE INLET,

Considering its resources of fish and timber, its coal deposits, the establishment thereon of the only manufacturing industry carried on by white men upon the islands, and two of the principal native villages, it is at present the most important body of water embraced within the Queen Charlotte Archipelago. The Inlet proper, from the entrance between Sand Spit and Dead Tree Points, to its junction with the waters of Skidegate Channel, leading through to the west coast, is twenty-five miles in depth, and from two or three hundred feet in the narrows to seven miles in width at the expansions of Bear Skin and South Bays. Its shores are generally low and frequently sandy, and the back-lying country densely timbered and sloping gradually, except on its north-western side, where the mountains rise quite precipitous from 1,500 to over 4,000 feet above the sea. More than twenty small rivers and creeks flow into the inlet, several of which abound with a small but excellent variety of salmon. Of these streams, Klick-a-doon, (Slate Chuck), between Bear Skin Bay and Anchor Cove on the north, and Dena, emptying into South Bay, and those discharging into Long Arm are the largest and most important.

There are from one to four Indian houses at the mouths of the salmon streams, for their temporary lodgment during the fishing season.

Over thirty islands and islets are embraced within the waters of the inlet. Maud Island, the home of the Gold Harbour tribe, is the largest, being between three and four miles in length, and from one to two miles in width. It is centrally situated, thickly wooded, except where destroyed by fire on its southern side, with an average elevation of about three hundred feet. Lina and South Islands, the next in size in the order mentioned, are from one and a half to two miles in length. There is only a canoe passage between the former and Graham Island. Leading Island, lying between Maud and Moresby, is the landmark by which navigators are guided safely over the bar in clear weather. Bare Island, owned by the Skidegate Oil Company, not so destitute of vegetation as its name suggests, is of interest as having been once a fortified stronghold of the Skidegate tribe, now living on the north shore, opposite, and as now containing a flourishing colony of rabbits.

AGRICULTURAL AND GRAZING LANDS.

There are upwards of two hundred acres of tide meadows at the mouths of the streams mentioned, the largest and best tract, containing from twenty to thirty-five acres, lying along the Dena, on Moresby Island. There are also several hundred acres of alder bottoms, with a comparatively light growth of spruce interspersed, available for cultivation. The density of the timber prevents the growth of nutritious grasses, except in very limited quantities upon the immediate shores.

TIMBER.