Chapter III: Part 3

There is a considerable quantity of accessible spruce and red cedar of merchantable size growing near the shores of the inlet, and much larger bodies on the banks of the streams, and in the valleys a few miles back. It would be expensive to obtain the latter by reason of log obstructions, except where the fall is sufficient for the construction of chutes. On Slate Chuck I saw spruce trees over thirty feet in circumference, and red cedars nearly as large. Occasional groves of alder used exclusively for fuel by the Skidegate Oil Company, are found on the shores.

COAL.

Several out-croppings of coal have been hitherto discovered on the inlet, including the only anthracite, so far as known, on the Pacific Coast. The vein is situated on the east side of Seymour Mountain, about a mile and a half from the shore at Anchor Cove. Upwards of a hundred thousand dollars were expended in its development by the Queen Charlotte Coal Mining Company, chiefly in the construction of a railway and other shipping facilities. Several tunnels were bored, the longest to a depth of 450 feet, reaching a vein of good anthracite coal from three to six feet in thickness, from which a vessel load was sold in San Francisco at a good price. But the vein soon becoming faulty, and the owners dissatisfied with the outcome from their investment, the mine was abandoned in 1872, and before the explorations made were sufficiently thorough to determine with much certainty the character and extent of the deposit.

THE SKIDEGATE OIL COMPANY'S

Works, buildings and wharf are situated on Sterling Bay, between Image and McGregor Points, ten miles from the entrance to the Inlet. They manufacture from 35,000 to 40,000 gallons of refined oil annually, representing over 500,000 dogfish, giving employment to hundreds of the natives during the summer months. This important industry is capable of indefinite expansion, and great credit is due to the enterprise and energy of Messrs. Sterling & Co, for its establishment and successful management.

THE SLATE CHUCK QUARRY,

From which the natives of the islands obtain the material for their stone carvings, is situated on the east side of the mountain of that name, on the west bank of Klickadoo River, about three miles and one-half from its mouth. The deposit is evidently an extensive one, the exposures covering several acres. No united effort has been made to develop it, the Indians quarrying it individually and carrying it out on their backs--over a rough trail--as required.

SKIDEGATE CHANNEL,

From three miles in width at its west coast entrance to two and three hundred feet where it meets the waters of Skidegate Inlet, flowing in from the east, is of sufficient depth on the rapids to admit of the passage at flood tide of vessels drawing seven or eight feet of water. Canoes pass through at all stages of water, but encounter very strong currents in the narrows, near the divide--not less than five miles an hour--when the tides are running out. Its shores are comparatively low, not infrequently sandy, except for several miles from the entrance, where the mountains are higher and more rocky and precipitous. The bordering country is clothed with a dense forest of spruce, hemlock and cedar.

SWAN INLET,

The entrance to which was first shown on Judge Swan's map of his reconnoisance along these shores in 1883, opens into the channel three and a half miles from the west coast entrance. It is between three and four miles in length, with two arms, one, the longest, extending in a north-westerly direction, and the other in a northerly, uniting about a mile and a quarter from the channel. High, steep mountains, thickly timbered--except on the west side, where there are two or three hundred acres of grassy openings--surround it. Three streams of clear water flow in at the heads of the arms mentioned, and a small island lies near their junction. There are three cabins in a sheltered cove on the east shore about a mile from the entrance--a rendezvous for the native seal-hunters and fishermen. Leading from Skidegate Channel to the Pacific ocean, between Moresby and Cha-thl islands, is eight miles in length, and from two to three hundred feet to two miles in width. Passing through it at half-tide our canoe grounded in several places. It was formerly much traversed by the natives inhabiting the abandoned village of Cha-thl, on its north shore, near the west coast entrance, and also by the Gold Harbour people before their removal to Maud Island. There are several hundred acres of grazing lands on the sides and tops of the mountains lying to the southward.

Very respectfully, your obedient servant,

NEWTON H. CHITTENDEN.

* * * * *

CORRESPONDENCE.

NO. II.

Mountains clothed with dense forests of cedar, spruce and hemlock cover most of the surface of the country we are about to enter. Numerous wonderful inlets, sounds and channels divide it into an archipelago of many islands, of which Graham, Moresby, Provost, North Louise, Lyell and Barnaby comprise the greater portion of their area. Although so far north, being directly under the influence of the warm Japan current, which sweeps along these shores, the climate is mild, winters rarely severe, snowfall generally light, except on the mountains, and rainfall ranging from forty to seventy inches, according to local topography, the western slopes of the mountains receiving much the largest amount. Their most valuable known resources are fish, lumber, fur seal, sea otter and coal. Veins of gold and copper have also been found, but not sufficiently developed to indicate their extent and value.

They are inhabited exclusively by the Hyda Indians, now numbering about 800 souls, who live in the villages of Massett and Skidegate, on Graham Island; Gold Harbor, on Maud Island, in Skidegate Inlet; Cumshewa, on Moresby Island; Skedance, on Lyell Island: Tanoo, or Laskeek, on Tanoo Island, and at Ninstints, on a little island opposite the west coast entrance to Houston Stewart Channel. Their origin, in the absence of any written record or historical inscriptions, is an interesting subject for speculation. Their features, tattooing, carvings and legends, indicate that they are castaways from eastern Asia, who, first reaching the islands of Southern Alaska, soon took and held exclusive possession of the Queen Charlotte group. Their physical and intellectual superiority over the other North Coast Indians, and also marked contrasts in the structure of their language, denote a different origin. They are of good size, with exceptionally well developed chests and arms, high foreheads and lighter complexion than any other North American Indians.

Massett, the principal and probably oldest village of the Hyda Nation, is pleasantly situated on the north shore of Graham Island, at the entrance to Massett Inlet, Fifty houses, great and small, built of cedar logs and planks, with a forest of carved poles in front, extend along the fine beach. The house of Chief Weeah is fifty-five feet square, containing timbers of immense size, and planks three feet and one-half in width and eighteen inches thick. The village now has a population of about 350, the remnants of a once numerous people, the houses in ruins here having accommodated several times that number. Massett is the shipyard of the Hydas, the best canoe makers on the continent, who supply them to the other coast tribes. Here may be seen in all stages of construction these canoes which, when completed, are such perfect models for service and of beauty. This is the abode of the aristocracy of Hyda land--of Head Chief Edensaw, and of Weeah, Stilta, Kinaskilas, Kiltslouia, Spencer and Cootay, minor chieftains, who have but little now remaining except their titles, of which they are very proud. Most of the other villages named were offshoots from the parent colony caused by family and tribal feuds and quarrels. Chief Edensaw and most of his people were away at North Island and other points hunting fur seal, their most profitable pursuit. Those remaining appeared quite friendly, and disposed to look with favor upon my undertaking.

I had no difficulty in obtaining the desired Indian guide, and at once proceeded with the work of examining the islands. Down Massett Inlet we paddled and sailed for thirty miles, through great flocks of wild geese and ducks, several of which were soon added to our provision supply. What a splendid body of inland water, from one-eight of a mile to twenty miles in width, deep enough for large vessels, abounding in choice fish and game, its shores covered, with dense forests, where bear, land otter, and marten are numerous, altogether a veritable Indian paradise! For several days we coursed slowly along the eastern side, entering all of the indentations, and following up the streams flowing into it. My guide, a master of canoe navigation, and well acquainted with all of the waters of that portion of the islands, was of so little service upon land, both from ignorance of its topography, and inexperience of foot expeditions, that I made my interior excursions alone. Indian trails were almost invariably found, extending from one to three miles along the water courses, terminating at or near bodies of the finest red cedar, which they had cut for canoes and poles, for carving and building purposes. Upon some of these trails considerable labor had been expended in bridging over ravines, corduroying marshy places, and cutting through the trunks of great fallen trees. Only a few of them showed much use of late years, being obstructed by logs and overgrown with bushes. But, poor as were these native roads, I was always very glad to find them, and correspondingly sorry when I could follow them no longer, for beyond progress was exceedingly difficult; fallen trees from one to eight feet in diameter, in all stages of decay, thickly overgrown with moss, lying one above another, not unfrequently to the height of ten or fifteen feet, covered nearly the whole surface of the country. Several times I struck bear paths, so well worn that at first I thought that they had been trodden by human feet, but sooner or later they led me into thickets through which I could only go on all fours. I found a bear trap so constructed that, when sprung, an immense log would crush bruin to the earth; marten traps, where the animal was enticed by a tempting bait into a noose, which held it fast; and salmon traps, so made by means of wing dams, with lattice work and boxes in the centre of the stream, that no ascending fish could escape being caught. Grouse were very numerous, and so tame from being seldom hunted, that they would sit upon the branches of the trees almost within reach. They were excellent eating, quite fat and tender.

Returning to Massett I then prepared for a more extended trip, the circumnavigation of the entire group of islands, for the purpose of a preliminary survey of the coast country, to enable me to determine which portion should receive the greatest share of my attention. The canoe which I had used on the comparatively smooth waters of the inlet was old, badly shattered and unseaworthy. I, therefore decided to purchase a new one, and began to canvass through the village, examining those which appeared most suitable for the service required. Though I did this at first without seeing their owners, they soon ascertained the object of my visit, and before I had concluded a bargain every man, woman and speaking child in the village became interested in what to them seemed an important transaction. In matters of trade the Hydas are no exception to the Indian race generally, hesitating to set a price, for fear you might pay more if you should be asked; raising upon their figures if you accept an offer too readily; or backing down altogether, even after delivery, and demanding the article back again. Their extreme cautiousness in dealing with the whites is doubtless due in a great measure to having been so outrageously cheated by many of the early traders. At length, after several refusals on my part to accede to their excessive demands, and consultations of the owner with his people, my offer of $31 for a canoe, thirty feet long, was accepted, which was a larger price than they had at first asked. After strengthening it by putting in cedar ribs, I resumed my travels, accompanied by Mr. Maynard, the well known, enterprising and plucky artist of Victoria, and Thomas, who, besides being so excellent in the management of the canoe, knew the coast very thoroughly as far south as Skidegate, about 100 miles distant.

We proceeded slowly, only advancing on an average about ten miles a day, traversing the entire shore on foot, following up the various rivers and creeks, and examining the extent of open country found. It comprises in the aggregate, between Massett and Skidegate, about 10,000 acres, better adapted for grazing than agricultural purposes, the largest tracts lying on Delcatley Inlet, near Massett, and on the Tlell River, about thirty miles north of Skidegate. The soil is uniformly sandy and of too recent formation to be much enriched by decomposition or alluvial deposits. A coarse broad-bladed grass growing in bunches prevails near the sea shore; a taller variety, of quite thick and luxuriant growth, on the meadows, while a species of red top was found on the higher lands. Strawberries, already in blossom, thickly covered the shore in many places. Cranberry vines were also found on two of the meadows. The immediate shores are generally low, thickly wooded with spruce, cedar and hemlock, with occasional marsh and meadow openings. The streams are small, and with one exception filled with fallen trees from their mouth up. The Tlell River, the largest, we were able to ascend several miles before meeting any obstructions. Although their waters were red from flowing through cedar swamps, several contain trout and a very choice variety of small salmon. Between Massett and Skidegate there are no harbors, only small bays, where vessels might find shelter during off-shore winds. From Massett Inlet eastward to Rose Spit, the extreme northeastern point of Graham Island, and from thence southward for nearly forty miles, a magnificent, broad, sandy, gradually sloping beach extends the greater portion of the way, being only broken for short distances by rivers, creeks and rocky headlands.

We became unexpectedly well acquainted with the first thirty miles of this splendid beach. Maynard and the Indian were to go around Rose Spit with the canoe and join me upon my return from an excursion inland. They failing to meet me within the expected time, and a storm having arisen, I began to fear that they had been driven back before it, but hoped to find them at the camp of the previous night. Pulling off the heavy boots in which I had been walking all day, I almost ran the ten miles, only to find the fishermen's hut we had occupied dismally dark and silent. Another ten miles was made in all haste, and still no signs of the party. Here, being very thirsty, I felt my way in the darkness to a spring, from which we had previously obtained good fresh water. Dipping my cup, I swallowed a hearty draught of salt water, which had flowed in with the last tide. Although this was not a very refreshing or stimulating beverage on an empty stomach for such exertions, I returned to the smooth beach, followed it eight miles further to Massett, aroused the sleeping settlement, procured a canoe, four Indians and provisions, sailed down the coast fifteen miles, then walked twelve miles, when we met Maynard out searching for me. They had rounded the point in safety, though a heavy sea shattered the canoe, and would doubtless have swamped it had not the Indian, with great coolness and presence of mind, placed his back, with arms akimbo, to the inrolling breaker, drenching himself, but preventing the canoe from filling. In the thick fog their movements had escaped my observation. They had built bonfires to attract my attention, carried food and chocolate where I would be most likely to find it, and searched the peninsula over and over for me, in the same state of alarm in which I was hunting in another direction for them. In the course of our travels thus far we had found, in addition to several abandoned fishing huts and houses with carved poles in front, what appeared to be the remains of an earth and stone work fortification. It occupied an elevated situation about a mile from the sea shore, and consisted of an excavation about 100 feet square, surrounded by an embankment of earth and stones, which could hardly have been made except by human hands.

Near the close of the thirteenth day we reached the Indian village of Skidegate, comprising thirty houses and 100 people. It is situated near the entrance to the inlet of that name, one of the most important bodies of water embraced within the Queen Charlotte group. At high tide it is navigable through connecting waters for small vessels entirely across the island, here about thirty miles, varying from one to five miles in width. Its shores are generally gradually sloping, with long stretches of sandy beach, bordered by a thick forest which, covering the mountains, rising from 800 to 3,500 feet, within from five to ten miles, bounds the horizon on every hand. Here are convenient halibut banks, salmon and trout streams. Codfish, flounders, crabs, clams and mussels, and dog fish in such great numbers that 5,000 have recently been caught with hooks by four men within twenty-four hours for the Skidegate Oil Company. The natives have extracted their oil for many years by throwing heated stones into hollowed logs, filled with dog fish livers. But the oil obtained by this rude process was so frequently burnt and filled with dirt that it became very unpopular and could only be sold at a low price. The company above mentioned, by the introduction of the most approved retorts, have succeeded in extracting an article so pure and clear that it meets with a ready sale at a good price, and is regarded as one of the best oils in use, especially for all lubricating purposes. The company manufacture about 40,000 gallons annually, giving employment to the Indians from all parts of the island during the summer months. They are now assembling at Skidegate, which they make their headquarters during the dog fishing season. The shore is covered with canvas, Indian men, women and children, dried halibut, herring spawn, fishing tackle, bedding and camp equippage, presenting a scene of great interest.

Remaining here over night several voices were heard singing familiar hymns in a house close at hand. Going to the entrance I found a prayer meeting in progress, and, being invited in, remained to its close. Knowing that they had received only very limited missionary instruction, and none whatever for several months, I was considerably surprised that of their own motion, and without any white leader, they should hold such a well-conducted religious service. The songs were well rendered in English, the praying and speaking being in their native language.

I refitted at Skidegate, hiring a stronger canoe and two Hydah Indians, known as Sam and Tom, who, together, were well acquainted with the principal waters to be traversed. Proceeding southward, steep and often precipitous mountains, ranging in elevation from 800 to 4,000 feet above the sea, rugged and rocky on their western slopes, densely covered with forests of spruce, hemlock and cedar, extended from Skidegate to Cape St. James, and from Queen Charlotte Sound to the Pacific Ocean, over all the islands, so far as any observations extend, except a few thousand acres of grazing lands. Small tracts of arable meadows and garden patches are cultivated by the natives. The narrowness of the island south of Skidegate leaves but little room for an interior, beyond the range of the eye, when standing upon the summits of the highest mountains, after having traversed their shores. The latter are uniformly rock bound, frequently bluffy or precipitous, from 20 to 1,500 feet in height, with generally very limited borders of level country, the base of the steep mountains reaching down to the sea, with but narrow foothill slopes. The streams flowing from the short watersheds are small but numerous, and without exception, filled with fallen trees from their source to their mouth. Their waters are generally rapid, clear and good. Trout are plentiful in most of them, and a small, very excellent salmon is caught in considerable numbers in several of the largest. We found Chief Skidegate and several of his people securing their spring supply by means of traps, from a creek flowing into Copper Bay, and Chief Skedance _en route_ for the same purpose to a small stream emptying into Cumshewa Inlet from Louise Island.

The rivers, which I followed to their source, rise in lakes and small swampy mountain basins. There are several harbors, where large vessels may find perfect shelter during the severest storms. Although the timber area is so great, there are but few localities where saw mills could be profitably operated. The forest embraces no Douglass fir, but little available yellow cedar or cypress, and only comparatively small bodies of merchantable spruce, which are accessible without the construction of expensive roads. Between Skidegate and Cape St. James there are more than thirty islands and islets, and bays, inlets, harbors, sounds and channels in great numbers. Day after day and week after week we paddled, rowed and sailed along these wonderful shores, visiting the Indian villages of Cumshewa, Skedance, Laskeek, or Tanoo, and Ninstints, all occupied, and several others now abandoned. We also crossed Moresby Island from the east to the west coast at two different points, where the Indians assured me that there were trails over which canoes had sometimes been carried. We found no signs of a trail, except for a short distance, but, on the contrary, a country so difficult to traverse, on account of swamps and fallen timber, that the transportation of canoes through it would be a most laborious undertaking.

All of the villages named are beautifully situated, facing the south from cozy sheltered nooks, with splendid beaches, and abundant supplies of food conveniently near. Besides the halibut bank marked on the chart, there is one near all of the villages mentioned, and inexhaustible quantities of clams and mussels along the neighboring shores. This is certainly one of the most favored regions in the world for the abode of the Indian. From the number and size of their houses now occupied, and ruins, from fifty to seventy in each village, their burial Ghans and houses filled with the dead, these islands most have contained at least ten times their present population. Smallpox and the corruption of their women have been the principal causes of their destruction. The Hyda women, being good looking compared with those of the other coast tribes, have for twenty years been the special prey of the coarse libertines of a large floating population, until virtue is almost unknown among them. Nothing can save the race from speedy extinction except the most careful Christian training of their few healthy children. There are no missionaries in any of these villages, nor have they been visited by white men, except at long intervals. They treated me, however, with great kindness, inviting me to sleep in their houses, both at Laskeek and Ninstints, and presenting my guides with dried and fresh halibut, dried sea weed, fish spawn, and the eggs of sea fowl.

Many of the natives, especially the women, were painted; a few of the oldest wore rings on their ankles, and all had their noses pierced for them. My guides painted at Ninstints both black and red, and urged me to do so, saying that it would not only improve my appearance, but prevent the skin from blistering. The preservation of their complexion I find to be the principal reason for painting by the women. They are the fairest on the Coast, and evidently conscious of it. One young woman, exceptionally good looking, ran to a brook upon our approach, and quickly washed off the unsightly pitch, deer tallow and charcoal, that she might appear in all her native charms.

Until we rounded Cape St. James, the extreme southern portion of the islands, we encountered but little disagreeably rough sea. Opposite Barnaby Island, however, we were struck by a heavy squall, which swept our canoe over the surface of the water for more than 200 feet, and to within about twenty feet of a precipitous rocky shore, upon which the waves were dashing furiously, before we could recover the use of the oars. But, from the cape northwest, it was a continuous battle amidst storms from all quarters, encountering strong adverse winds and much of what the Indians called _hyas solleks chuck_ (very rough sea). I could then understand why, before leaving, they had inquired so carefully of Mr. McGregor, who recommended them, if I had a _skookum tumtum_ (a stout heart), and of me personally whether I was subject to sea sickness. We were four days rounding one point, making three unsuccessful attempts, the Indians turning back, but not until our canoe had been nearly swamped by heavy breakers. The skill of the natives in handling the canoe is something wonderful. When once at sea, I left its entire management to their judgment. On one occasion, when off a rocky point, we were struck by a heavy sea with alarming force. To advance was seen to be impossible, and to turn back was almost equally perilous. It was no time for indecision, for another great breaker was rolling toward us. With a single signal word from the helmsman, with perfect coolness, a few powerful strokes at just the right time reversed our little bark, and we were soon in safe water again.

For considerable distances on the west coast rocky precipitous mountains face the sea, in places not less than 1,500 feet in height, almost perpendicular, rising over 4,000 feet within a few miles back. When running the guantlet of the storms along these forbidding shores we looked into the mouths of several dark caverns of unknown depth. Twice Indian Tom raised his paddle, placed four small wads of tobacco thereon, and, with a supplicating motion of his right hand toward these caverns, made an offering to the spirits which are supposed to inhabit them, praying that we might have a safe voyage. Here we found what I believe to be the grandest scenery of the Queen Charlotte Islands. We had been pulling for six hours against head winds, squalls and rough seas along this rocky, high walled shore, which seemed to offer no place where a landing would be possible, when suddenly the canoe turned toward land, ran through a narrow rock bound passage into a little basin about fifty rods square, surrounded by mountains rising precipitously from 1500 to 2500 feet, down which ten cataracts were plunging. Grand View Inlet, or whatever it may be called, is situated about eight miles south of Tasso Harbor. As we were leaving it two land otters were seen swimming near the shore. Giving chase, one of them ran out upon the land, where, after an exciting hunt with dogs, it was killed. One evening, as we were camping in a rocky cove, Indian Sam suddenly seized his gun, ran down to the shore, and mounted a great rock where seal had been seen. Presently he fired, and then stripping off his shirt, dove headlong into the sea. He soon rose to the surface grasping a great seal, with which he swam to the shore. Although they had eaten a hearty supper, they sat up until midnight gorging themselves with its excessively fat meat. They had one continual feast from the beginning to the end of the expedition, devouring, besides the supplies taken with us, seal, wild geese, duck, octopus, clams, halibut, mussels, sea eggs, bird's eggs, fish spawn, salmon, etc., in great quantities. On the thirty-third day after leaving Massett, I returned to Skidegate through the Canoe Passage and Skidegate Channel, where I again refitted for the west coast of Graham Island and the Virago Sound country, next to be traversed.

NEWTON H. CHITTENDEN.

* * * * *

CORRESPONDENCE,

NO. III.

A forced detention at Skidegate for the recovery of a disabled hand, afforded an unexpected opportunity of becoming acquainted with Indian life in their village lodges and fishing camps, which I will more fully describe in another letter. The waters of Skidegate Inlet, during the months of June and July, were alive with canoe-loads of men, women and children, plying between the dog-fishing grounds, their villages and the works of the Skidegate Oil Company. The latter are situated on Sterling Bay, a beautiful little harbor on the north shore of the Inlet, about three miles from Skidegate. Here, as previously stated, were assembled at times a numerous fleet of canoes and hundreds of natives from all parts of the island, with their klootchmen, papooses and dogs. The latter gave us a series of concerts which will never be forgotten. Their number may be inferred from my having seen eleven dogs disembark from a medium-sized canoe, following one Indian, who alone arrived with it. The leaders of this remarkable band were ten dogs which belonged to a family of Hydah aristocracy, whose habitation was on the shore of a cosy cove about one mile distant, hidden from view by a rocky, wooded point. Three or four times during the twenty-four hours, they rounded the point, sat down on the shore, raised their noses heaven-ward at an angle of about forty-five degrees, when, with half-closed eyes, and the expression of a spirit medium when about to deliver an inspirational lecture, they abandoned themselves to paroxysms of howling and yelping.

To their first outburst, came a prompt and deafening response from every dog in the encampment, which continued with increasing vigor, until their united chorus quite baffles description. I have heard Chinese bands, Calliopes, the braying of jackasses, the love songs of Tom cats, operatic screechers, brass band and violin murderers, broken down hand organs and accordeons, Red River carts during the dry season, the maniacal howling of the bulls and bears of Broad Street, and many other noises of like character, but none of them are at all comparable to the voicings of these Hydah dogs, when thoroughly warmed up to their best efforts by a few hours' practice.

A VISIT WITH CHIEF NIN-GING-WASH.

Nin-Ging-Wash, the ranking chief of Skidegate, is about 65 years old, thick-set, broad-faced, with a grave expression, and quiet reserved manner. He was introduced to me as the richest Indian on the island, as having the best houses, finest canoes and youngest wife. A few years ago he gave away his second wife--growing old--and sued for the daughter of Seotsgi, the leading chieftain of the West Coast. Presently she made her appearance, a sprightly young woman about 26, and we all started in their canoe for their home at Skidegate, where I had been invited. _En route_ while passing a pipe from the chief to his wife, my oar caught in the water, giving the canoe a sudden lurch which would have been quite alarming to most feminine nerves, but not to the Princess for she laughed so heartily over the mishap, that I saw a smile spread over the big face of the old chief. An hour brought us to the broad sandy beach of Skidegate, opposite the chiefs present residence, a plain comfortable frame house in the centre of the village. Two large splendid canoes were carefully housed in front. A small orchard in which a few half-grown apples were seen, next engaged the attention. The chief's wife carried the keys to the house and to the piles of trunks and boxes it contained. Their furniture embraced good modern beds, tables, dressing cases, mirrors, chairs, stove, lamps and other articles too numerous to mention. They opened trunk after trunk and box after box and showed me a very interesting collection of Indian wear; four masquerade head dresses reaching down to the waist covered with ermine skins valued at $30 each; several complete dancing suits including a beautiful one made by the princess; Indian blankets, woven by hand from the wool of the mountain sheep, masks, rattles, etc., and also a good supply of common blankets and other stores which they exhibited with evident pride.

We next ransacked their old house, a large one, still in good repair, which stood a few rods distant. Fourteen copper towes of various sizes, formerly valued at from fifty to five hundred dollars each, leaned against the broad front. The carved pole is so tall that, when erected, Nin-Ging-Wash received his present name, which signifies "the long stick." The house was filled with articles of Indian manufacture, curiously carved cooking and eating utensils, fishing implements, boxes, mats, etc. The chiefs property, real and personal, is worth several thousand dollars. It is reported that he took his young wife to Victoria, and refurnished his establishment from her earnings. She apparently has her own way in everything now, the old chief being quite satisfied to get his rations of muckamuck and tobacco without troubling himself as to how it is provided.

CHIEF SKIDEGATE

Was found, with about twenty of his people, catching and drying salmon at the mouth of a small stream flowing into Copper Bay, fifteen miles south of the village. He is a cousin of Nin-Ging-Wash, younger in appearance, though nearly as old. They quarrelled bitterly over their rank for a long time, Nin-Ging-Wash, by means of his more liberal potlatches finally prevailing, but not until two of their adherants had been killed. Skidegate handed me a package of papers, chiefly letters of recommendation from ship masters, missionaries and others. It was evident that he was ignorant of their contents. One said the chief had been "buming" around their vessel for some time demanding $100 for alleged claims upon certain coal lands, which the captain thought had better be allowed, as he was a powerful chieftain. Another was a fatherly letter from missionary Duncan. Skidegate it seemed, had attempted to shoot a young Indian for some personal offence who fled to Duncan for protection. The letter warned the chief never to be guilty of such an act again, assuring him that if the Indian had injured him, he should be proceded against according to law. But Skidegate has now kept out of difficulty for several years, and like a good many white people, who sin as long as they are able to, before they reform, he has joined the church, and is trying to be a good Indian before he dies.

DOCTOR MODEETS.

My visit to the chief medicine man south of Massett was accidental. While making a trip of several days alone with my canoe, I sought shelter from a severe storm on a little islet in Skidegate Inlet, where I passed a sleepless night in the rain and wind. It was only a short distance to the Indian village of Gold Harbor, where, the following day, I landed and spread out my blankets to dry on the beach. Among the Indians squatting in front of their houses, I noticed one whose hair was tied up in a knot on the back of his head, the size of a large hornets' nest, of which it reminded me. Approaching nearer, his face was seen to be marked with small pox, a piece was missing from his nose, and altogether he presented a more remarkable than attractive appearance. I found him, however, quite talkative, and soon engaged him in conversation to the extent which my limited knowledge of the Chinook would permit.

He told me that he was a medicine Tyhee, and inviting me into his house, showed me the curious medicine dance, dresses, wands, rattles, charms etc., worn and used by him when practising the healing heart. The charms were carved out of bone, and represented whales, bears, ravens, land otters, eagles, thunderbirds, etc., and various other animals and fish, each accredited with special virtues for the cure of certain diseases. Selecting several which I desired to purchase, I placed in his hand the pieces of silver I was willing to pay for them. He counted the money, and then the charms over and over again, dwelling at length upon the wonderful curative powers of the latter, but finally accepting my offer with the addition of a small potlatch. The occupation of the medicine man is now nearly gone, only a few old people having any faith in their practice. Modeets is the only doctor I have seen on the island who has kept the vow taken when entering upon the profession never to cut or comb his hair. His wife observing that it was an object of interest to me, unloosened the great bang, when the thick tangled ringlets spread over the old man's shoulders and reached down below his waist. To further gratify my curiosity, the chief put on a portion of his fantastic regalia, and executed a medicine dance. The doctor then dressed me in his wildest and most barbaric costume, when _by special request_ I imitated his performance, in a manner which "brought down the house."

A GAMBLING SCENE.

The Indians are among the most desperate of gamblers.

They not infrequently play themselves out of everything they possess, leaving the game nearly, or quite, naked.

Chief Edensaw told me of an Indian who, having lost his money, canoe, blankets, and all his clothing, gambling at the sea otter hunters' camp on the west coast, then plunged naked into the forest, and succeeded in reaching a village on Virago Sound, the only one, so far as known, who ever crossed that portion of the island. A game of this character was in progress at Gold Harbor. There were no police to interfere or missionaries to discourage, and the players sat down in two rows, facing each other, on the beach, with boards in front. No cards or gambling sticks were used, only the tooth of a whale. This was taken by the challenging party and passed rapidly from one hand to the other, his movements being accompanied by loud singing, the beating of sticks on the boards, violent gesticulations and contortions, in which all joined, the betting being simply in which hand the tooth remained at the close of the manipulations. I reached this interesting scene just as an Indian was taking off his shoes to wager on the game, which he soon threw on to a pile of clothing in the centre of the group, containing coats, vests, pantaloons, suspenders, shirts, etc. A big, one-eyed fellow was fast stripping the party when I left, and if his luck continued, would soon have reduced the Gold Harbor natives to their original state.

A REMARKABLE VISITATION OF CRABS.

I have seen a good many crabs in other waters, but never one-hundredth part as many as suddenly appeared on the shore of Sterling Bay, in the latter days of July. The lowest estimate by any one who saw them, was tens of thousands. The bottom in places was so thickly covered that nothing but crabs were visible, and Messrs. McGregor and Smith reported having found them two or three feet in depth. They were not the coarse, overgrown, worthless sea crab, but a good eating variety, which, for some unknown cause had come there in such great numbers, for the purpose casting their shells. They remained about ten days, when they left in a body, leaving a winrow of their old shells on the beach. Mr. Alexader McKenzie reports a similar visitation at Massett, the first known during his six years' residence on the island.

RETURN TO MASSETT--VISIT FROM CHIEF EDENSAW.

Through the kindness of Capt. Meyer, and Purser Williams, of the steamer "Princess Louise," my whole outfit, men, canoe and supplies, were taken to Massett, at which point I resumed the examination of Massett Inlet, which being concluded, we explored in succession Virago Sound, Naden Harbor, and all the bays, inlets and harbors of the west coast of Graham Island, and the streams flowing into these waters. I had just taken possession of the quarters kindly assigned me by Mr. Alexander McKenzie of the Hudson Bay Company, when we received a visit from Edensaw, oldest and ranking chief of the Hydah nation, who has erected the largest number of carved poles, given the greatest feasts, and made the most frequent and liberal potlatches. Though about seventy-five years of age, he is still quite vigorous, and being well dressed in a suit of broad cloth, would easily pass for a much younger man. He is the last of a race of powerful chiefs, his ancestors having been bold and aggressive warriors, making many captive slaves from the other coast tribes. He is also a distinguised brave, but never fought with his own people, and has always been friendly to the whites. On one occasion he risked his own life to release the captain and crew of a small vessel, the "Susan Sturgess," which had been made captive by the Indians of Massett. He has succeeded one after another of the chiefs of various parts of the group by virtue of the erection of carved poles to their memory, bountiful feasts and generous potlatches to their people, until he is now recognized as their greatest chief.

UP THE YAKOUN RIVER.

Early in August we had reached the mouth of the Yakoun river, the largest stream on the island. Hundreds of salmon and salmon trout were jumping out their full length, as we paddled along under the shadows of the tall spruce which cover its banks. Advancing about a mile, we camped with a party of Massett Indians, who sold us splendid silver salmon for twenty-five cents, and potatoes at the rate of eight dollars a bushel. The following day, accompanied by a single Massett Indian, I ascended the river for several miles, by means of two very small canoes, making several portages around log jambs over rapids and shallow places. About three miles up, two old Indians and two naked boys, tending a salmon trap, were roasting splendid salmon trout, which they shared with us. They were living exclusively upon fish, which they ate without salt, generally cooked upon a stick inclined over the fire. For about 200 miles we coursed along the shores of Massett Inlet, whose long south-western arms reach the base of steep, high mountains, the western sides of which, from ten to fifteen miles distant are washed by the waters of the Pacific. Chief Edensaw told me that in former times the Indians to the south with whom the Hydahs were at war, sometimes crossed over these mountains from the end of Kio-kath-li Inlet on the west coast, and taking their people by surprise, carried away captive their fairest young women.

RUNNING RAPIDS IN A ROTTEN CANOE.

Among our trips inland, was one of about ten miles up the Ain River to Coos-Yoouns lake its Sourse. This is a fine body of water, about eight miles in length, surrounded by a thick forest of spruce, red and yellow cedar. The river from fifty to seventy-five feet in width is a succession of rapids--log-jambs and shoals almost its entire length. Following a trail about half way to the borders of a little lake through which it flows, we found a canoe, very small, old, rotten and shattered. The water poured in through a long crack in one end, nearly as fast as we could bail it out. But by battening with our provision sack, we managed to keep it afloat until we had accomplished the round trip to the lake first mentioned, by making several portages over log jambs, shoals and rapids. Returning, I decided to run one of the latter, and just as my men got out to lighten the canoe over a rocky place, pushed out into the middle of the stream.

Down my little bark swept, toward a narrow passage between two rocks, around which the water was whirling and foaming. I had under-estimated the strength of the current, and in spite of my best efforts with one serviceable hand, the canoe dashed on to one of the rocks, balanced a moment on its centre, whirled once around, and then shot down stream, quivering like a frightened animal, into safe water again.

VIRAGO SOUND, NADEN HARBOR AND RIVER.

Fifteen miles west of Masset the ocean indents the land for about thirteen miles from eight miles to one-eighth of a mile in width forming what is known as Virago Sound and Naden Harbor, the latter being the most accessible and safest anchoring ground for vessels on the north shore of the island. Into this harbor flows the Naden River, the second largest stream of the Queen Charlotte group. From Massett Inlet touching at the abandoned village of Yan situated at its entrance, we proceeded to those waters and advanced ten miles up the Naden River three miles by canoe and thence on foot through a thick forest of spruce and cedar with a dense undergrowth of intertwined salal, salmon, whortleberry and other bushes. Bear tracks and traps were numerous, but no game was started except grouse, which were very tame and plentiful. Night overtook us several miles from camp, wet to the skin and without blankets! But further progress in the darkness being impossible, we built a roaring fire at the base of a great spruce tree, and lay down until daylight. The following night occupying one of the three habitable houses in the old village of Kung, situated at the entrance of the harbor, we found Chinese pottery, and in the burying ground the largest carved figures of men we had seen, about seven feet in height.

_Around North Island into Cloak and all its other bays, visiting the deserted villages of Kioosta Yakh and Henslung._

Thirty-five miles further, stopping _en route_ to examine the old village of Yatz and the Yalan River, brought us to the extreme northern land of the Queen Charlotte Islands, North Island. Here Capt. Marchand lay with his ships trading with the natives nearly one hundred years ago. The Hydahs were then at least ten times their present numbers, swarming in the waters and on the shores around the villages of Kioosta, Yakh and Tadense, where now only carved poles, houses in ruins, and numerous graves attest their former greatness. Two Indian dogs were the sole occupants of the fishing and hunting village of Tadense, at the time of our arrival. They had been left behind by sea otter hunters, with an abundant supply of whale blubber--but were so lonesome that they followed us for a long distance along the shore, evidently for the purpose of being taken into our canoe.

A beautiful clear, still day, favored the circumnavigation of North island, and the careful examination of its coast line. A thick forest of spruce of small growth covers its entire area, down to its rocky shores, which are generally low, though rising to bold perpendicular bluffs from 50 to 200 feet in height at North Point and around Cloak Bay, the highest elevation on the island not exceeding 400 feet above the sea. There are four small bays on its north-eastern side, from one to two miles in depth, open to easterly winds, with fine sandy beaches at their heads where the remains of former habitations were visible. Cloak Bay, a much larger indentation on the south-western shore, is exposed to westerly storms. The safest anchorage these waters afford is found in a little cove on the south shore of the island between Cloak Bay and the village of Henslung.

Parry Passage, which separates North Island from Graham is about a mile and a half in width, though the ship channel--very rapid except at flood tide--is narrowed by reefs, and Lucy Island, to less than two thousand feet. Camping at the deserted village of Yakh, near Kioosta, we found large beds of strawberry vines of most luxuriant growth, and carvings of male figures complete.

THE WEST COAST.

Rounding Cape Knox for nineteen days, thirteen of which were stormy, we fought our way along about 275 miles of shoreline, traversing to their head every inlet, harbor, sound, port and bay, fourteen in all, from three to ten miles in depth, nearly all hitherto unknown, except to a few of the oldest Indians.

A rocky, ragged uninviting shore, from which project far out to sea many rocky points with outlying reefs, white with breakers, except during the calmest weather; precipitous mountains from one to four thousand feet in height, clothed with forests of spruce and cedar down to the sea; beautiful land-locked harbors, with short stretches of fine sandy beach at their heads; long winding inlets, down whose mountain walled sides roaring cataracts are plunging; numerous small streams in which salmon and salmon trout were seen by the hundreds; scores of islands, islets and cozy coves, where seal and wild geese abound, describes the general physical features of the west coast of Graham Island.

A SUBMERGED FOREST.

Tledoo is the name of a summer rendezvous of the sea-otter hunters of Massett, situated about fifteen miles south of Cape Knox. We had landed at Klik-a-doo, a short distance above, the only place visible where the sea appeared not to be breaking, and in examining the coast on foot several miles southward, discovered the tall pole which marks the site of the three cabins of Tledoo. At first view, the sea seemed to be breaking along the entire front, but a more careful examination disclosed a narrow entrance between the rocks through which we were able to enter a perfectly sheltered little canoe harbor with a fine sandy beach at the landing place.

A strong south-east wind caused a very low tide the following day, laying bare a sandstone flat about an eighth of a mile from the beach, upon which black objects were visible. I had already found on the shore opposite at high tide, large pieces of lignite coal and petrified wood. Putting on my long boots, I soon discovered the base trunks of hundreds of forest trees from one to six feet in length extending as far out to sea as I could wade--some lying down and formed into lignite coal, but the greater number standing and petrified as hard as rock. The rocks along the north coast for hundreds of miles, show unmistakable evidence of violent volcanic action, and though the ocean has receded within the memory of Indians now living, these islands are probably the mountain tops of a submerged land, separated from the main body of the continent by the sinking of the earth's surface.

AN INTERESTING RIDE.