Chapter IX: Section II: Timbers (4)

[32] The same polity under which Britain has acquired supremacy, will not now serve to continue it. A knowledge of the interests of nations is abroad, and if we will not suffer our country to be the emporium of the world, another will.

[33] See App. E.

[34] The price of any article raised at home, when any part requires to be imported, of course rises to the whole cost (prime cost, duty and freight) of the foreign.

[35] The chance of loss by wreck, damage from sea-water, and pilfering, being much less in British than in foreign bottoms, enables the British to obtain a higher freight than the foreign.

{138} PART IV.

NOTICES OF AUTHORS RELATIVE TO TIMBER.

After throwing together several of our own observations, we bethought ourselves of examining into the ideas and experience of recent writers on the same subject. Having taken notes of the more prominent matter contained in their pages, we believe we shall do the public a service by printing these notes, accompanied by slight remarks. This may be the more useful, especially as almost every author has his own particular mania, which few common readers have sufficient knowledge of the subject to discriminate from the saner matter: and as, from the nature of hobbies—from some shrewd enough guesses by the owner that they are his own undoubted property—and, perhaps, from some misgivings, that what he advances on these is not perfectly self-evident, he is thence the more disposed to expatiate upon them, and embellish. The {139} credulous and inexperienced, partly from this, and partly from the fascination of the very improbability, rush at once into the snare; bring the speculations or assertions to practical test; get quickly disenchanted by realities, and ever after are disposed to treat all written directions on material science with contempt. We bring forward these authors in the order of perusal. We have found several remarks similar to our own; this was to be expected.

{140} I. THE FORESTER’S GUIDE, _by Mr Monteath_.

This volume is the work of a man of some experience, and of considerable observation and ingenuity, not much assisted by botanical or physiological science or literary attainment, which he, indeed, disclaims. His principal forte, and what he seems to have been most engaged with, is oak-coppice—his besetting sin, cutting and cropping. His directions on rearing and cutting coppice may be sensible;—those who wish to practise the sacrilege of destroying young oak-forest, we refer to him, as we have always had a horror at seeing a beautiful sapling untimeously cut down, like an American bullock for its hide. At present, and while peace continues, it is very easy to obtain plenty of foreign bark, and also oak-timber, for consumption, at a very cheap rate, for this reason—_and also, because, in the event of war, the price of these articles would be nearly doubled—we would request the holders of coppice, and, indeed, of all growing oak-timber, to pause in their operations of cutting, and not to sacrifice their property so unprofitably, to their own ultimate disadvantage, and also to the detriment of {141} the national resources; but immediately to set about converting their coppice-hags into oak-forest, by careful thinning and selection_. For performing this, we refer them to Mr Monteath in person, who seems to comprehend the utility, and to be pretty well versed in the practice, of thinning; only we would desire him, in pruning, to attend to the functions of the leaves; that the more abundant the covering of healthy foliage, the tree will progress the faster; and that the repeated cutting down of a young plant, year after year, as he recommends, even sometimes extending it to five years in succession, will either destroy the plant altogether, or be extremely injurious to its growth: although, if the plant be stunted, cutting it down, once, as every body knows, is the plan which should be adopted with all kinds of our common forest trees—the coniferæ, beech, and birch, excepted.

Mr Monteath advises a naturalization of young plants, after they are got from nurseries, in a soil and climate similar to that which they are ultimately to occupy. We see no necessity for this. All that is required in a young plant, is, that it be of good variety, of firm fibre, in a healthy growing state; with a stout stem, in proportion to the height, {142} with numerous side branches, and with a root rather large in comparison to the part above ground.

Our author’s mode of preparation of turfy peat-moss soils for planting we think good, but conveniently applicable in heathy moss ground, only with the assistance of the late Mr Finlayson’s ingenious device of the self-clearing plough. At every seven feet of breadth, Mr Monteath excavates a deep rut, by means of a plough with three coulters and two mould-boards,—two of the coulters cutting, each, a side of the rut, the other dividing it in the middle, and the double mould-board turning out a furrow to each side. He passes this plough twice along in forming the rut, each time turning out from four to six inches in depth, so that the whole depth of the rut is about ten inches. These minor drains communicate with larger ones dug by the spade across the field. The thrown up slices are then cut into lengths of eighteen inches, and carefully dried, by turning and by piling a few together, as openly as possible, that the wind may blow through. A small pile, about six in number, is then burnt upon the intended site of each tree, if necessary, aided in the combustion by furze or other fuel; taking care, by proper regulation of the quantity of fuel, or otherwise, to prevent the combustion from proceeding too {143} far, and the ashes from becoming white and light, as in this case a considerable part of their virtues is dissipated. This ploughing, drying, and burning, being performed as early in the summer as the weather will permit, the earth under the ashes is immediately dug over, from two to four feet in breadth, and mixed with the ashes, and the following spring the planting is performed. In situations where Mr Monteath’s plough could not be worked to advantage, these minor drains may be formed by the spade; and in heathy peat soils, not requiring drains, the burning of the heathy turfs on the site of the plants might be efficacious in correcting the tannin, and in reducing and enriching the soil within the immediate reach of the young plant, which would thus acquire strength to subdue the more distant part, and gradually reduce and form the whole into soil capable of affording healthy nourishment.

We also approve of the plan mentioned by Mr Monteath, for covering with timber, rocks or stony ground, so bare of soil as not to admit of planting, by means of placing seeds in the crevices, or on the shelves of the rock, and scraping together a little mould to cover them; or, when practicable, placing the seeds in the middle of the mould. Here, however, we think he errs, in recommending the {144} cutting down of the young resulting shoot, year after year, that the plant may acquire long roots, extended down the crevices, to give the future stem stability and sufficient foraging. We would never cut down but when the plant appeared stunted, and not then in succession, nearer than three or four years from the last cutting. Those who possess rocky precipices, so steep or inaccessible that the above method of our author could not be practised with conveniency, may cause a quantity of the cheapest seeds of trees be sown down over the top of the crags during the winter: we would prefer the end of January, as the mouldering effects of the frost and the rains would cover numbers of these, so as they would come to vegetate.

Mr Monteath advises, in rearing oak-forest or copse, to put in only about thirty plants per acre, and by layers from these to cover the interstices. In order to recommend this practice, he states the celerity with which these could be extended, layer beyond layer, making steps, every second season, of eight or nine feet, by relaying the last layer’s shoots, and he affirms, that a forest could be sooner, and more economically raised by this means, than by planting the whole at first. This is sufficiently imaginative. He seems not to be aware of the fact, that life is {145} very languid, and growth slow, in any branch horizontally extended, especially when upright stems from the same root are suffered to remain. He also expects the layer-roots to become strong and capable to forage for large trees. That they will, in the oak, ever become so, we think very improbable. Examination of the roots which proceed from oak-layers would place this beyond dispute; if they are, as we presume, fibrous and slender, similar to those produced by apple-layers, no tree or bush of any great size will result. Large trees, generally, cannot be procured by layers, but only in those semiaquatic kinds which grow readily by slips. Whether it may be advantageous to fill up the vacancies of copse by layers, in preference to seed-plants, experience only can determine. The bark of trees or bushes raised by layers or cuttings is generally thicker than that of those raised from seed:—this might balance some deficiency of the growth in the case of oak-coppice.

Our author advises the cutting off the upper part of spruce-trees on the outside of plantations, in order that their lower branches may extend the more, and remain vigorous,—thence affording more adequate shelter to the within plantation. Perhaps it is quite unnecessary to guard any person from practising this piece of folly. On the outside of woods, spruce-firs {146} will retain the branches in vigour, sufficiently low for all the purposes of shelter: nothing could be more unseemly than the decapitated trees; and in a few years most of them would become rotted in the stem, die, and fall down.

From observing, on the western side of Scotland, thriving plantations exposed to south-west winds and sea-spray, and also to north-east winds and sea-spray, in woods extending along the western side of the salt lochs in Argyllshire, our author predicts, that, under his panacea of repeated cutting down, trees would grow luxuriantly in exposed situations on the north-eastern margin of our island. We do not desire to see Mr Monteath’s sanguine hope turned to disappointment, which a trial would certainly effect. There is something peculiarly hard and cutting in our _vernal_ north-eastern breeze fresh from ocean, which withers up the tender spreading leaves of every plant raised from the ground, and placed in its immediate draught. This is occasioned as well by a cold moist, as by a cold dry wind, the new vegetable structure in the developing process, when the tissues of tubes and cells are only in the state of pulp, and all the molecular germs floating into figure, under the direction of vital and chemical impulses and attractions, being very susceptible {147} of derangement. We attribute this effect on vegetables principally to the coldness and saline matter. The depressing effect on the spirits or vital energy of man, occasioned by the eastern breeze, does not appear to be dependent on the same cause. The great rivers, the Rhine, the Weser, the Elbe, independent of the English rivers, throw a great quantity of decaying vegetable matter into the lower part of the German sea, which, being there only a shallow muddy gulf, may thence have its waters so far contaminated as to throw off pernicious exhalations. Or, what is much more probable, the eastern breeze, sweeping along the swamps (at this time in high evaporation, of malaria) which extend from Holland upward, and along the whole southern shore of the Baltic, and thence eastward nobody knows how far, must bear these exhalations, uncorrected, over the narrow sea which intervenes between these flats and our shores. It is even likely that a slight diffusion of saline matter from this gulf, instead of correcting, may have the opposite effect, as a small quantity of salt tends to promote putrefaction. It is evident that this miasma-atmosphere, borne across the German sea, is not pernicious to vegetables; as, when the breeze is not too cold, or too violent, they progress rapidly in growth, {148} and acquire a deep green colour: and, on the north-eastern Scotch coast, where timber suffers most, the breeze has little of that depressive influence on man, although it may derange his respiratory and transpiratory organs; while down on the shores of Suffolk and Essex, where the malaria of the breeze is greatest to man, the exposed trees receive less injury. Yet something may depend upon the electric state of this air, or upon the greater pressure of the atmosphere, which, we believe, are connected. On the exposed east coast, when it is desired to grow timber, we must estimate the most enduring kind of tree, perhaps sycamore plane, and place it to seaward, covering it as much as possible by wall, and planting other kinds under its lee. We have noticed several instances where timber throve well, without shelter, close by the sea, on our north-east coast, which we attributed to a diminished draught of the eastern breeze, owing to the configuration of the adjacent higher country.

Mr Monteath ascribes the sickliness and decay which, in many places, is perceptible in the timber of narrow belts, to the want of shelter, and recommends to form belts wider. There is some truth in this, and the advice is good, although he does not seem to be aware of the whole cause of the evil. {149} Trees in single rows thrive latterly much better than in narrow belts, because, from the planting, they are habituated to open situation, and acquire roots, branches, and stem, suited to this: whereas trees in narrow belts, from being in a thicket while young, acquire great length of stem, and roots and tops unproportionably small; and, when thinned out, and from the narrowness of the belt, exposed nearly as much, as, though in single row, they become sickly, from delicacy of constitution unsuited to this exposure, and from deficiency of roots to draw moisture commensurate to the increased evaporation. To obviate this evil, resulting from narrow belts, timely thinning, so as to retain numerous side-branches downward to the ground, of course, should be adopted. In a drier climate, or in high and exposed situation, continued forest will have great effect in promoting the luxuriance and health of timber; but in the southern part of Scotland, there are few situations, keeping away from high elevation and the eastern coast, where any of our common trees would prosper in forest, which would not grow pretty well singly, provided the plant be allowed from the first to accommodate its figure to the situation.

Mr Monteath’s system of pruning severely while {150} the trees are young, we think very prejudicial; and his restricting pruning to trees under 15 or 20 feet in height, equally erroneous. About 15 years ago, we selected a number of young trees several years planted, and low and bushy, in an open situation. We treated one half of these in a manner similar to what our author inculcates, pruning away most of the lower branches, and also any irregular top ones: and the other portion, though very bushy, we left to nature’s own discretion, merely correcting several which threw up more than one leader. The result has been, that those much pruned up have required constant attention to the top and repeated pruning, they continuing to break forth into irregular branches and numerous leaders, and thence have sustained considerable loss of growth; while those let alone, after hanging several years in bush fashion, of their own accord have thrown up fine leaders, which now form beautiful, upright stems, with sufficiency of regular lateral branches or feeders, requiring little or no attention; while the original bush at the ground, from the size and overshadowing of the superior tree, appears now so diminutive as to be unworthy of notice. We do not mean to inculcate that pruning is superfluous; on the contrary, when judiciously executed, under regulation of the purpose for which the {151} particular kind of timber may be required, it is highly useful: but the cutting off and diminishing the number of lower feeders, thence deterring the growth of the tree, and encouraging the superior feeders to push up as leaders; or to increase in size so as to render their removal, should it be necessary, dangerous to the health of the tree, and the upper part of the stem useless from large knots (a practice which in nine cases out of ten is followed), cannot be sufficiently reprobated. _In pruning, every means should be taken to increase the number of feeders_, in order that none of them may become too large; and no healthy regular feeder should be lopped off till the tree has reached the required height of stem, and a sufficient top above this for the purpose of growth; at which time the feeders upon the stem, as far up as this necessary height, may be removed[36].

Mr Monteath states that Scots fir should not be thinned to greater distance than 20 feet apart, and larch 15 feet. This shews very little consideration: the distance apart necessary for these kinds of timber, and of all other kinds, must be relative to the soil, situation and climate, and the intentions of the owner, whether he means to bring them soon to {152} market, or carry them forward to great timber. When fir trees are intended to be early cut down, or when disease in larch from unfitness of soil may be apprehended, as it is thence of small consequence though their future ability to become great timber be destroyed by closeness, the plants should be retained pretty near each other from the first, that the timber may be tall, straight, and clean. On the other hand, when the soil is suitable and great timber intended, early attention to thinning and great openness from the first is absolutely necessary, as they (the firs), different from other trees, can never repair the loss of their lower branches by throwing out new ones from the naked stem; and double the distance stated by Mr Monteath at least for larch, which, instead of less, needs more space than Scots fir, will be required. We believe the decay of Scots fir, occurring so generally at about 40 years of age, although also dependent on inferior variety and kiln-drying of cones, arises principally from want of timely thinning; that is, that the infirm variety of Scots fir in common use, when supported by numerous feeders, and not weakened by being drawn up into a tall slender stem, will often have hardihood to continue growing, and acquire considerable size in our cold, wet, moorish tills, or even in our moorish {153} sandy flats. Many casualties will, however, occur among resinous trees[37], especially in unsuitable soil, even when the plants rise from the seed naturally sown, and have sufficient room for lateral expansion. The same cause, viz. closeness or want of thinning, induces early maturity, old age and decay in larch, although it does not seem to have any influence, either as inducement to, or prevention of, the rot. We have heard men,—even men reasonable on other subjects—speak of allowing a pine wood to thin itself: as well might a farmer speak of allowing his turnip field to thin itself. When woods are planted of various kinds of timber, the stronger, larger growing kinds will sometimes acquire room by overwhelming the smaller: but when the forest is of one kind of tree, and too close, all suffer nearly alike, and follow each other fast in decay, as their various strength of constitution gives way; unless, from some negligence or defect in planting, a portion of the plants have come away quickly, and the others hung back sickly for several years, so that {154} the former might master the latter: or when some strong growing variety overtops its congeners. In the natural forest of America, when a clearance by any means is effected, the young seedlings, generally all of one kind, spring up so numerous, that, choaking each other, they all die together in a few years. This close springing up and dying is sometimes repeated several times over; different kinds of trees rising in succession, till the seeds in the soil be so reduced as to throw up plants so far asunder as to afford better opportunity for the larger growing varieties to develope their strength; and, overpowering the less, thus acquire spread of branches commensurate to the height, and thence strength of constitution sufficient to bear them forward to large trees.

Mr Monteath, apparently to encourage the destruction of young oak, and keep his merciless hatchet agoing, asserts that “oak trees, at the age of 24 or not exceeding 30 years, have as thick a rind or fleshy part of bark, as when they arrive at 50.” If by this he means to say, that the useful part of the oak bark of the stem of a tree at 50 years old is no thicker than that of one of 30, we say he is wrong, widely wrong. A thriving oak tree of 100 years will still continue to increase the thickness of the valuable part of the bark on the stem, although part of the {155} outer layers or cuticle may lose vitality, and become _corky_. We have taken down a luxuriant growing oak, exceeding three feet in diameter, the living bark of whose stem was about two inches in thickness, resembling thick plank, and which was considered by the tanners much stronger in quality than bark of younger growth. Has Mr Monteath seen any bark resembling this on 24 years old sproutings? If, by the above quotation, our author means to say, that the valuable part of the bark on the branches of a tree 30 years old, is equal in thickness to that on the same sized branches of a tree at 50, we say he errs still; that is, provided the older tree be in a healthy thriving condition, and growing equally open and exposed as the younger. Trees, as they increase in years, increase also in the thickness of the living bark, from the root upwards to the smallest twig, provided they have not begun to get dry and sickly from over maturity. When this period arrives, the living part of the bark upon the stem and larger branches becomes very thin, with a great proportion of dead corky substance; although, on the twigs and smaller branches, it still continues to thicken. The age at which the external part of the bark begins to lose vitality, is considerably dependant upon luxuriance of growth, climate, and exposure; and the {156} period when this loss proceeds faster than the annual increase within, is altogether dependent on the vigour of the tree, not on the age, and never takes place till the timber is ripe for the dock-yard.

We would warn the readers of Mr Monteath’s volume, that his calculations and statements regarding the worth of coppice and timber generally, seem more suited to flatter the owner’s wishes than to be useful to him as a merchant; or to be adjusted to the value of money during the late war—not to the present value. We also do not very well comprehend his re-establishment or resuscitation of life in dead trees. We observe several other slight errors, such as the duration of his paling,—and the affirmation that the sap-wood will not extend so as to cover over the section of a pruned branch which contains any red or matured wood. Most readers will be able to detect such errors as these.

In taking leave of Mr Monteath’s volume, we would offer our acknowledgment for the attention he has bestowed on the subject of the seasoning of timber, by steaming with extract of wood (pyroligneous acid) and by scorching, as prevention of dry rot. The greatest objection we see to his plan is, that all timber dried quickly is liable to crack and split, and loses a considerable portion of its {157} toughness and elasticity; at least, timber when dried slowly is harder and stronger than when dried quickly, the dryness in both cases being carried to the same extent. The comparative strength of timber scorched and timber not scorched, after both are soaked in water, as in the lower timbers and plank of vessels, should be subjected to experiment.

Our author’s directions (although the practice is also not new) to season larch by peeling off the bark one or more years previous to cutting, in order to prevent it from warping or twisting in framed housework; and his hints recommending stripping off the bark from most kinds of timber a season previous to cutting, are also deserving of notice. We greatly wonder that something efficacious has not been done in regard to dry rot by our Navy Board, and consider the subject of such importance, that we think a rot-prevention officer or wood physician should be appointed to each war vessel from the time her first timber is laid down, to be made in some shape accountable if rot to any extent should ever occur; and that this officer should be regularly bred to his profession at an institution established for the study of this branch of science at the King’s largest building yard. Perhaps it might be as well to endow several professors’ chairs at the universities to follow {158} out and lecture on this science, as being of far more importance than many which are already endowed. We think that steeping in fresh water pits for several years, till a kind of acetous fermentation take place in the timber, or till it become of a blue colour; or in tan-pits; or for a shorter period in strong brine pits; or even salting the timber like herrings, after it is blocked out; or forcing pyroligneous acid, or composition of chlorine, or other solution, antiseptic or obnoxious to life, into the pores of the timber when dry, by pressure; or perhaps by charring the timbers after they are cleaned down on the stocks ready for the plank, by playing on them a jet of flame from a flexible gas pipe,—might, some of them, be found preventive of the rot, and at same time not to impair any of the valuable qualities of the timber.

We are a little shy in committing ourselves, lest we should be impressed as a dry-rot physician or professor; but if the following plan for preservation of vessels when unemployed has not already been tried, we recommend it to the notice of our Navy Board.

Let every part of the vessel be cleared out, and every port-hole or external opening be made as air-tight as possible.

Let a quantity of recent-burned limestone {159} (lime-shells) be spread thin over every inside deck or floor, and over the whole bottom and sides of the vessel, and every door or hatch in the main-deck be immediately closed down air-tight. A number of rods or shreds of timber would require to be nailed slightly to the inside skin of the ship where the slope is considerable, in order that the lime-shells may rest and not roll down.

As soon as it is found that the lime-shells are completely slaked—become hydrate of lime—let it be sold to the farmer or house-builder, or be used in any government erection going forward at the time; and let another quantity be laid in. We would consider a sloop of 80 tons load of lime, value, prime cost and freight, about L.70, would suffice for covering the internal surface of a seventy-four gun ship. When slaked to powder, the lime might be disposed of at little loss. It is impossible, without trial, to say how often the lime would require renewal, but we think twice or thrice a-year would suffice to preserve the vessel dry and free of any corruption; perhaps even once might be found effectual. Suppose that the lime was renewed every four months, and that when slaked it only sold at two-thirds of the whole cost, the preservation of a line-of-battle ship would be nearly as follows. The price of the lime {160} and work is correct, according to the rates in most of the harbours of Scotland.

A quantity of rods or shreds of timber, about three inches
in diameter, for nailing on the sloping sides of the vessel,
material and labour, L.20 0 0

Eighty tons lime-shells = 560 bolls, at 1s. 7d.
per boll, prime cost, 44 6 8

Freight of 560 bolls, at 1s. 28 0 0
The slaked lime is supposed to sell at 2-3ds
of the cost, thence the whole loss on a year
would equal the value of one cargo.

Carrying three lime cargoes of shells aboard,
and spreading them, 30 0 0
We allow here for the greater distance of
carriage, and spreading out of the cargo,
nearly thrice the sum requisite to remove
lime-shells from a vessel into a cart.

Removing the slaked lime of three cargoes, 30 0 0
―――――――――――
Cost first year, L.152 6 8
Deduct rods, 20 0 0
―――――――――――
Cost, second, and each following year, L.132 6 8

The complete efficacy of lime-shells in preventing dry-rot is already proved—the coasting small craft frequently employed in the carriage of lime-shells not being liable to it. All that requires to be ascertained, is the minimum quantity which will effect it; and if the expense of this quantity will greatly exceed the average loss by dry-rot in our unemployed {161} shipping. If the quantity necessary be not greater than what we have supposed—even Mr Hume himself would not consider the expense extravagant—the preservation of a line-of-battle ship not exceeding that of one of our numerous army _captains_ while lying _in ordinary_.

Lime is preventive of dry-rot in several ways,—when uncombined as an antiseptic, simply by drying, from its attraction for water; by its causticity, which remains for a number of months after it is slaked, destroying organic life; and by its absorbing putrescent gases. It is not easy, without trial, to form a correct estimate of the quantity of moisture which would enter through the inside planking of a man-of-war; but were the bottom of the vessel in good condition, the pumps attended to, and external air excluded, we should consider that the moisture would not greatly exceed 60 tons of water yearly, which would nearly be required to convert 240 tons of lime-shells into dry hydrate of lime. No very great injury or inconvenience would be produced by the opening of the seams of the ceiling (the inside skin), or of the inner decks or floors, or by the warping of the plank, resulting from the contraction of the timber by the dryness; but the caulking of the main deck would require to be looked to. {162} No danger from fire need be apprehended, from the sudden slaking of a thin layer of shells, even though a leak in the main deck should occur. The thickness beyond which shells could not be suddenly slaked upon dry boards without danger of fire, might be tried.

It is necessary to mention, that, though lime-shells, or dry hydrate of lime, when timber is so dry as to be liable to corruption by insects or by dry rot, is, by destroying life and increasing the dryness, preventive of this corruption; yet lime, in contact with timber for a considerable time in very moist air, from its great attraction to water, draws so much moisture from the air as to become wet mortar or pulp, which, moistening the timber, promotes its decay by the moist rot.

{163} II.—NICOL’S PLANTER’S CALENDAR.

This volume, which ought to have been named Sang’s Nurseryman’s Calendar, is a work of very considerable merit and usefulness, where the craft of the common nurseryman is plainly and judiciously taught. The editor, Mr Sang, admits that he was very little indebted to the notes of his friend (the late Mr Nicol) for the matter of the volume; and the work itself bears evidence of this, being principally devoted to the operations of the nursery, the sowing and planting of hard-wood trees, which are described with a judgment and accuracy attainable only by long experience in that line, to which we understand Mr Sang belongs. Every person engaged with the sowing, planting, or rearing of timber, if he be not too wise or too old to learn, should forthwith procure this volume.

Mr Sang recommends sowing of forests in preference to planting, which many before him have done, we believe, more from conjecture that nature’s own process must be superior to any method of art, than from any experience of the fact or accurate {164} knowledge of—at least without giving sufficient explanation of, any cause rendering the tree of more puny growth in consequence of being transplanted. In the case of simple herbaceous vegetables, we find, on the contrary, that transplanting increases the size, protracts the period of full development, and retards the decay, the individual suffering no lasting injury from root fracture, or that injury being more than compensated by change to a new and more recently wrought soil; or even the root fracture, instead of being of prejudice to the growth, by throwing the energy of the plant in this direction to repair the injury, not only may do so, but delaying the superior process towards reproduction[38], may also give a {165} new vigour to the soft fibrous rootlets, and greater extension than they otherwise would have attained. But in regard to some kinds of compound plants of perennial stem, transplanting, especially when the plant has attained some size, by fracture, throws the main wide diverging roots into numerous rootlets and slender matted fibres, none of which has individual strength to extend as a leader far beyond the shade of the spreading top, thence forage in a drier, more exhausted soil, and, from consequent want of supply of moisture, the sap of the tree stagnates into flower, or merely leaf-buds, instead of flowing out into new wood. The fibrous softer rooting vegetables sustain no lasting injury from root-fracture and transplanting; but the harder, more woody, larger growing roots, losing their leader, never entirely recover their original power of extention. Yet we think that one or two year old plants, taken from the seed-bed, would suffer little or no injury from removal, as the _tap-root_, which is ultimately of no consequence, never constituting a leader, but eventually {166} disappearing, is the only part which suffers fracture in the woody state; and the side shoots, which become the grand root leaders, are in the fibrous state, which easily repairs small injury. These observations refer only to certain kinds of timber trees. The willows, poplars, and lindens, succeed better when their roots are cropped in near the bulb when removed. We planted a piece of trenched ground, partly with poplar plants, with good roots, from a nursery, and partly with poplar loppings, about the same size as the plants, stuck into the ground: the loppings grew more luxuriantly than the nursery plants. The same occurs with willows—with this difference, that willow-loppings do better with the top entirely cropped, without any twigs or external buds; the poplar only pruned a little, with a terminal bud left on every twig, especially on the top shoot. The superiority of the growth of those without roots, results from their having fewer buds and twigs to exhaust the juices before the formation of new fibrils to draw from the ground, these few buds thence continuing to push more strongly, and from the roots growing more vigorously when sprung anew, than when they are a continuation of the wounded deranged old ones.

New rootlets spring out much sooner and more {167} boldly from the thick vigorous green stem bark, than from the delicate tender root bark, and also more vigorously from the bark of the bulb than from the bark of the remote roots, of those soft-wooded trees; indeed, it appears to be owing alone to the great strength of the vitality of the bark of the stem, that those kinds are so capable of continuation by cuttings. The roots have nearly the same delicacy of those of other kinds of trees, and show no particular readiness to throw up sprouts when bared.

Mr Sang, in furtherance of his advocated scheme of raising forests _in situ_ from the seed, sensible of the general impracticability of fallowing or working the ground all over previous to sowing, gives directions for pitting or stirring the earth the previous spring and summer, in spots about fourteen inches square, and from six to nine feet separate, burying the turf under the soil, in order that it may be rotted, and a fine friable mould obtained for reception of the seeds to be sown the following spring; several seeds are then deposited in each spot, equidistant; these require to be hand-weeded the first season, and the resulting plants hoed around for several successive years, till they have mastered the weeds, after which they are all plucked out but one (the most promising) in each spot. This is all very well, {168} if we could have patience and assiduity to proceed thus systematically; and if the mice, birds, and other enemies, would “let them be;” but although this plan, when a braird is obtained, and the tufts cleaned, and seasonably thinned, is probably the best, yet landlords, in general incapable of exertion, but under the excitement of a fresh thought, are so infirm of purpose; tenure of life and property are so precarious; and trusted servants, especially when the procedure has originated with another, are so liable to be negligent, that our amateurs ought to gratify their passion for improvement while it lasts, and proceed at once by purchase of plants, and pitting or slitting, which procures them a forest immediately palpable to view. There is no doubt, however, that wooing the soil to kindliness, rearing the infant plant from the germ, and superintending _a principio_ the entire beautiful process of vegetable development, will afford a deeper charm to a patient lover of nature; and that the continued solicitude and attentions required during this process acting upon man’s parental instinct, will excite an interest hardly to be felt towards a child of adoption.

A nursery gives such facility to the rearing of the plants, that, taking into account the greater chance of failure by sowing _in situ_ than by planting, the {169} latter practice will be executed for one half the expense of the former. Supposing that the progress, after twenty years’ occupancy of the ground, be equal in both cases,—at which period, however, we think the transplanted would still have the advantage,—it would require a considerable ultimate superior progress in those sown, to outbalance the accumulating value of the extra expense. It is probable a combination of both practices might be advantageously followed—sowing the soils and situations most suitable, and transplanting the thinnings of these into the more exposed unpropitious places[39]. The matter, however, must, after all, be left to the test of experiment in a variety of soils and situations.

This volume, being principally a monthly detail of a nursery practice, which has supported the test of competition, has, on this account, a very different credit and value from much that has been published of landlords’ practice, theorists’ conjectures, or adventurers’ quackery. The burthen of our author’s song, which, from the nature of the work, falls to be repeated at several of the calendary periods, and which perhaps cannot be too often repeated, is nearly as follows.

Procure good seed of the best varieties from large healthy trees, and preserve these in husk in dry {170} well-aired places till sowing; with the exception of ash keys, haws, holly-berries, roans, and yew-berries, which require to be put in the rot-heap as soon as gathered. The rot-heap consists of seed mixed with sandy earth formed into a layer not exceeding ten inches in thickness; this is turned several times before midwinter, when it is covered with a layer of earth about seven inches deep, to exclude the frost. After remaining in this heap one year—till September, or the following February, these seeds are sown out.

Sow seeds of trees during the last half of February, March, or April, on beds of high manured easy soil, in very fine tilth, and clear of weeds, such as follows hoed green crop, in distance and depth in proportion to the size of the seed, or rather of the annual stem or braird. To deposit the seed at an equable depth, the upper friable mould is pushed (cuffed) off the bed to the interstices between by the reversed head of a rake, as deep as necessary; the seed is then deposited by the hand, and rolled over by a very light roller to fix it, that it may not suffer derangement by the return of the earth which is then evenly _cuffed_ back from the sides, and no harrowing or raking given.

Watch most narrowly, and ward off or destroy all {171} kinds of vermin, mice, snails, birds, till the time when the rising braird has disencumbered itself of the husk of the seed thrown up by the ascending stem, and nip out every weed as soon as discernible by the naked eye. In order to diminish the toil of watching, the different kinds should be sown as near the same time as their nature renders prudent, and the seed-beds be situated as near each other as circumstances will admit.

At the end of the first or second season, according to size and closeness of plants, remove the seedlings from the bed to nursery rows, at any time when the leaf is off, and the ground sufficiently dry not to poach; before April for deciduous trees, and during April for evergreens, placing them in rather open order, either by dibbling or laying, according to the nature of the root, firming the plants well in the ground; in case of dibbling, taking good heed to leave no vacuum of hole under the root, and to work the tool so as to compress the earth more below than above.

Keep the soil loose and friable on the surface, and clear of weeds between the transplanted rows by repeated seasonable hoeings, and let the plants rise with a single leader.

After the plants have stood one or two years in {172} the nursery-row, remove them to their ultimate destination with as little fracture or exposure of root as possible,—the larger rooted by pitting, and the smaller by slitting, or as the nature of the soil may require; paying most particular attention to plant the dry ground early after the leaf has dropped, and the moister and more adhesive soils in succession, as they become so dry in spring as not to adhere to the tools in working, or poach in treading the plant firm in; removing the evergreens earlier, or later, in April, according to the dryness or moistness of the ground; dipping the roots in a clay-puddle, and endeavouring to seize the opportunity of planting before a shower, should the spring be far advanced and dry, especially in the more arid situations.

Stout healthy seedlings, one or two years old, may be at once removed from the seed-bed to their place in the forest, and will often succeed as well as when nursed in rows, as above.———We have preferred the pick of the seedlings to the common run of the transplanted, as being probably stronger growing varieties.

In cases where it is practicable, work over the new plantations for several years with crops of potatoes, turnips, lettuce, &c., manuring the ground, if {173} possible; and then sow out with perennial rye-grass and white clover, if the trees are not become a close cover, making economical use of the grass as early in the season as it can be mowed with a short scythe.

For seeds that require to lie a season in the rot-heap, such as ash keys, haws, &c. September-sowing is preferable to deferring it to the following spring, as they are liable to chip in the heap. If not sown in September, they must be got in as soon in February as possible.

Acorns, Spanish and Horse Chestnuts, are best sown when they drop from the tree; but when the seed is not procured till spring, the sowing ought not to be deferred beyond February and March. The best soil is a deep rich loam.

Elm-seed may be sown in June, when it is new from the tree, or carefully dried and kept over season till next spring; one-half may then be sown in March, and the other in April, as the March-sown is sometimes injured by late frosts. The utmost care is required to prevent this seed from heating when newly gathered.

Beech braird is also liable to be cut off by spring frost; the seed should therefore be sown partly in March and partly in April, to diminish the chance {174} of entire failure. The soil requires to be rich, and is benefited by a dressing of well-made manure previous to sowing.

Sycamore Plane braird also suffers by late frost, and for greater security ought also to be sown partly in March and partly in April. Planes require dry, poor, rather exposed sandy soil, for seed-bed; as, in rich damp soil, the top of the annual shoot does not ripen: the seed ought to be thinly sown.

Birch and Alder seeds require to be sown in March, or beginning of April, on very fine, rich, easy mould, giving them very slight cover, especially the birch.

The Coniferæ, Scots Fir, Spruce, Silver Fir, &c. should be sown in April, on very rich easy soil. The greatest care is required to deposit these different seeds at proper regular depth, from an inch to the fourth of an inch, in proportion to the size of the seed.

Larch should also be sown in April; it succeeds best on the clean mellow ground which has produced a crop of seedling Scots fir. It is worthy of remark, that the larch seedlings and row-plants are liable to die under a putrescent disease, when much recent manure is employed.—We remark this accordance with its tendency to putrid disease in after life. {175}

Acorns, Chestnuts, and other large seeds, may be economically sown in drill: where the soil contains much annual weed seed, this admits of expeditious cleaning by the hoe. Ground which has borne a crop of potatoes the preceding season, is unfit for seed-beds, as the tubers and seed of the potato give much trouble.

These are the chief of Mr Sang’s directions on raising timber-plants. With the exception of kiln-drying of cones, and being rather too prodigal of manure to the seed-beds (perhaps necessary in a sale nursery), we see nothing in the volume to censure.—A premium should be offered for a convenient plan of distributing fir-seed suitably in the seed-bed, without the aid of artificial drying.

It is perhaps unnecessary to state, that, in the culture of trees, there are thousands of incidental circumstances to which general directions will not apply, and which demand a discriminating judgment in the operator: this acts as a school to the mental acumen; and there is no class of operative men, which has the faculties of attention, activity, discrimination, and judgment, more developed, than nurserymen and gardeners,—whose diversified labours, requiring, at the same time, constant mental and corporeal exertion, keep up a proper balance of the human powers. {176}

We leave to the judgment of the operator to proportion the thickness of sowing of the different kinds of seed to the expected size of stem and leaf, under regulation of soil, season, and quality of seed; and to determine whether the plants may be continued more than one season in the seed-bed, or be entirely or partly drawn the first, which must depend on their luxuriance and closeness; also to notice if all the seeds have vegetated the first season, or if many of them still be inert; in the latter case, the seedlings must be picked out; to facilitate which, the earth may be gently raised by a three-pronged fork, with as little superficial disturbance as possible.

In nurseries, the great and general error is having the plants too close together, particularly in the row. Every nursery-row plant should be of a regular cone figure, with numerous side-branches down near to the root, and gradually widening in the cone downwards. These would, indeed, occupy more space of package, and probably not please the ignorant purchaser, who generally prefers a clean, tall body; but they would support the hardships of removal to the moor, and be stately trees; when the comely, straight, slender plants would either have died altogether, or have become miserable, unsightly skeletons, or stunted bushes. {177}

In cases where plants are required of considerable size, for hedge-rows or park-standards, it is matter of doubt, how far frequent removals in nursery, or cutting of roots, is profitable. This occasions fibrous matted roots, which tend much to the success of the ultimate removal, and to the growth of the plant for several years after; but, by checking the disposition the roots naturally have to extend by several wide-diverging leaders, probably unfit the plant for becoming a large tree.

Mr Sang remarks that sycamore planes and birch should not be pruned in the latter part of the winter, as they bleed greatly at that season: we have often noticed this as early as midwinter, which also occurs to the maple tribe. Our author introduces the mountain-ash as a forest tree, a rank it by no means merits, at least for value as a timber tree. When exceeding six inches in diameter, it is generally rotted in the heart, and is only valuable as a copse for affording pliant, tough rods; or twigs, as a charm or fetiche against witchcraft! It is, however, one of our most beautiful trees.

Mr Sang gives directions for kiln-drying fir cones previous to thrashing out, or extracting the seeds. We have before adverted to this, and would {178} particularly reprehend the practice. It is difficult to determine how far early fruitfulness and consequent infirmity of constitution, diminutiveness of size at maturity, and early decay, may originate from kiln-drying the cones; but, from the same process of drying in a less degree having been ascertained to induce early seed-bearing in the case of other seeds, we may infer almost to certainty, that the coniferæ of this country, not naturally planted, are very materially injured by this practice.

It is of small consequence, in reference to the tree itself, at what season deciduous trees are planted, provided they be naked of leaf, and the ground not too dry, as they are not liable to lose much by desiccation or evaporation by the bark alone, before the roots strike anew in spring, and draw freely from the soil; and the skin of the bulb, although the small rootlets be broken, sucks up moisture from the damp soil to repair the loss by superior evaporation: but evergreens—firs, hollies, laurels, yews, sometimes suffer by removal at a time when the roots do not immediately strike, as in winter, owing to the torpor from cold. We have often seen their juices exhausted, and their leaves entirely withered, by a continuation of dry northerly winds, the manifest cause of which {179} was the great superficial exposure of the leaves evaporating faster than the fractured torpid roots afforded supply. Therefore, although winter planting seldom fails, yet it is perhaps better to seize the exact time in spring, immediately before the roots commence to strike anew, before there is any new top-growth, and while the soil and air remain somewhat moist and cold, that the evaporation may not be too great. In this climate, April is a good season for removing evergreens to the field, although, to throw the work from the busy season, it is often practised in the nursery in September, when their annual growths are completed, and while there is yet warmth to enable the roots to strike anew; this, however, is only advisable where the soil for their reception is in the most favourable state, friable, and inclining to moist, or when there is great indication of rain, and the air near the dew point. Of course they require to be planted as soon as extracted. In winter or spring, when it happens that evergreens must lie in the _shough_, the most protected situation, where the air is moist and still, ought to be chosen, and the earth carefully closed to their roots, which is best done by watering, if rain be not expected; the stems and branches should also lie as close to the ground as possible. {180}

There is appended to this valuable Planter’s Calendar a treatise on the Formation and Management of Osier Plantations. As this will not bear compression well, we refer our reader to the volume itself.

{181} III. BILLINGTON ON PLANTING.