Chapter VI: Introduction (4)

When the shutter is in a locked position ready for an exposure, the right-hand leaf of fly covers the aperture of lens. When released, the fly revolves, uncovering the aperture, which is again covered by the left-hand leaf.

When the shutter is in the position shown in cut, less illumination is given to the foreground; but by [p128] adjusting the shutter in different positions any part of the view may be favored.

The hair trigger release may be operated either by hand, by a cord, or by a pneumatic device. The pneumatic apparatus costs $1.00 extra.

The speed of the shutter is perfectly controlled by moving the spring on back of shutter from notch to notch on the curved arm.

With this shutter, the latest production of the inventor of the very popular "Eclipse" shutter, exposures can be made of any desired duration. It is equal [p129] to any requirement for the most rapid work, and as a time shutter, exposures can be made as quick as two pulsations can be given to air bulb (about one-tenth of a second) or of minutes' duration.

"Duplex" Shutters work perfectly, with even the very largest lenses, up to their full capacity; and several lenses can be used with the same shutter. The shutter gives a full opening; but yet, by the peculiar opening in the exposure slides, any part of the picture can be favored with more or less illumination by turning the shutter, sometimes even inverting it.

The illustration gives a front view of the shutter, one-half size of No. 2, which is suitable for an 8×10 lens, or even larger, as it has an opening at the diaphragm of 1-1/8 inches.

Inclosed in metal casing are two pivoted slides, which move, in unison, in opposite directions, and make the exposure in one continuous movement without the slightest jar, even when worked at its greatest rapidity. The motive spring is on the back of the shutter, and is of coiled wire; a perfectly reliable spring. Its tension is regulated by moving it along a series of notches. The exposure slides are moved by a stud on the lever shown on front, which passes through the shutter and a slot in each slide, and engages with the spring on the back. On the end of the lever are two notches hidden by the secondary lever. When the lever is fully depressed, the release catches in the upper notch and locks the slides closed. A slight pressure on the air bulb or a trip to the projecting end of the release, frees the slides, and they make an instantaneous movement or exposure. If the secondary lever has been brought into play, by a turn or [p130] two of a milled-head nut, the release will catch in the second or lower notch and hold the slides at a full opening, in which position they remain until a second pressure is given to the bulb, or the release is tripped by hand.

The shutters are made in standard sizes, having narrow threaded collars on each side, to which can be adapted tubes to receive lenses, which are to be transferred from regular lens tubes. Any intelligent instrument maker or machinist can adapt such tubes to lenses; the original tube is not used.

HEAD-RESTS.

It might have been thought that the rapid dry plate, by shortening the time of exposure so much, would have done away with the necessity for using head-rests; and many old photographers whose backs have often ached from handling the "Wilson," the "Spencer" and other enormously heavy head-rests, thanked their stars that a time of relief seemed to be at hand. But not so. The head-rest is just as necessary as ever, and the heavy ones are as advantageous now as before. The most important use of the head-rest is to keep the head in the position required. That the head should be immovable is necessary during the time of exposure. Many people are quite able to keep still enough for photographic purposes without a rest for the head, but very few are able to keep the head in the position desired by the operator without some assistance; hence the necessity for the use of the head-rest for even the shortest exposure. One benefit, however, has been derived from the advent of short exposures; there seems no necessity for the use of the extremely heavy varieties. [p131] The lighter rests would seem to be capable of fulfilling all the requirements of a head-rest.

The Success head-rest is one variety of the lighter kinds, of which another is the Centennial. These are very useful in the studio, more particularly in posing a group, when it is necessary to have a head-rest for each one of the party; they are also sufficiently rigid for single sitters. They are in all sizes, short for children and long for adults, and if any part should be broken or get out of order duplicates can be had at trifling expense. [p132]

The Rigid head-rest is of a heavier kind, and is a favorite with many who prefer a medium weight. It sets firmly on its base and can be quickly and easily adjusted to either sitting or standing figures.

The Spencer head-rests are examples of the heavier kind; they are very firm and rigid, and heavy enough to suit the most exacting gymnast or athlete. There are many other varieties of the light, medium and heavy kinds, but the cuts show the best of the various weights, and a selection can be made from these without fear or hesitation.

A gallery should have half a dozen head-rests at [p133] least, and while the majority should be of the lighter, there should be a sample of the medium and heavier, kinds, so that no important aid to good work should be lacking.

POSING CHAIRS.

Much attention has been bestowed upon the posing chair since 1865, when Sarony introduced into the country the posing apparatus which first brought his name permanently before the American photographers and the public.

The Sarony posing chair, table, rest, etc., has, however, passed, and remains among the things that were, and many other styles of chair since have had their brief day and are gone.

[p134]

Among those that still remain in use this continues to be popular, and indeed it is a very useful and elegant article of furniture for the studio; and from the ease with which it can be converted from a high back chair for standing figures, to a posing chair for sitters, it will probably continue to be, as it always has been, the most useful accessory in the photographic studio.

These chairs are so pre-eminently superior in all desirable qualities that it is only necessary that their perfection of manufacture and ingenious plan of construction be seen to be commended by every one. Made of solid walnut, secured by means of a patented iron frame, they unite unusual strength with graceful outline and richness of effect. The quality of materials used, also, has always been of the best; and the constant aim is to make them excel in each and every [p135] particular. They have no uncertain joints, no clumsy and unsightly proportions, no "fixings" to become detached or render the chair useless when broken. They are better adapted to the varied requirements of a modern photographic gallery--better suited to the prevailing styles of portraiture, and more in consonance with modern studio accessories.

In short, the Bowdish chair combines the advantages and uses of all the various chairs in market, comprising--

_First._--A chair with high back, with or without arms.

_Second._--A chair with a revolving circular arm. This is an advantage over the ordinary chair with circular arm, which has only the vertical movement.

_Third._--A lounge attachment, which is invaluable for infants and children. [p136]

For sitting positions, vignettes, etc., the Novel chair is the best out for low bust and vignette pictures. The back is peculiarly well adapted; it gives support without the back becoming conspicuous in the picture. This chair is a valuable piece of furniture for any gallery, and many prefer it to the old-established favorite Anthony' Position Chair, which has been for many years the useful chair of the studio. [p137]

ANTHONY'S SLIDING-BACK POSITION CHAIR has been found to be just the thing for many positions, [p138] such as half lengths, full lengths and even sittings, and also for babies, as the back and arms are movable.

For some years past the little folks, babies and infants, have become a large part of the most profitable clientage of the photo studio, and much attention has been bestowed on the furniture and accessories suitable for them and their pictures. Among such, the QUEEN ANNE CHILD'S LOUNGE is a novelty itself, indispensable to any photographic studio; the opening between seat and back is an advantage for posing children. (Also made with hole in centre of the high back.)

These two forms of lounge are very useful and popular, having been adopted in many studios doing a large business with the little folks.

An extra cushion is now made for the Child's chair. This, placed in a semicircle under the knees, ensures the favorite pose of babyhood.

Two forms of chairs for babies are very popular with the average photographer, being neat in design and finely finished, greatly adding to the effect of a good photograph of a pretty baby. [p139]

The Baby Holder is not a chair, but a holder, and can be placed in any chair or on a table, It can be adjusted to any angle, to hold the baby securely in position.

These baby lounges and chairs should be raised on a platform, when in use. The platform should be from 6 to 12 inches high and on large, easy casters, so that it can be easily moved about the room. Such a platform is a great convenience for all sitters, the subject can so readily be moved without being put to the inconvenience of rising from the seat. With these chairs certain little cushions for the back and seat are very useful, and are supplied when required. [p140]

PART SECOND.

FIELD PHOTOGRAPHY.

That the thousands who formerly practiced photography in the fields, as an amusement and recreation, took great delight in it and found it to be an extremely fascinating pursuit, there can be no denial. When we think of the difficulties that were continually being encountered, and the trials of patience and temper that had to be submitted to--to say nothing of the disagreeable nature of the many solutions that were necessary, the stains on the hands and clothing incidental to the use of nitrate of silver and the solution of iron, and the heavy and bulky nature of the apparatus--we are constrained to believe that the rewards must have been more than commensurate to the fatigue incurred, to the disappointment occasioned by frequent failures, and to the dislike of dirty hands and stained and spoiled clothing.

Now, however, by the introduction of the new process of dry plate work, all that was disagreeable has been done away with. The collodion, the silver-bath, the developer and fixing solutions--as things to be carried with you--are now of the past, and even the glass plates will soon be known no more as impedimenta to the amateur. In place of the heavy Camera and [p141] plate-holders, we have now feather-weight constructions, that are no more a burden, but rather, ornamental objects, the possession of which and their use is more of a pleasure than otherwise. It is not surprising, then, that in view of these wonderful changes, the thousands who formerly practiced photography for amusement have increased to tens of thousands. And the dry plate equipment for viewing has become a part of the impedimenta of the summer tourist, as well when he or she travels by land as when they voyage by sea. The bicyclist, too, goes out with a Camera, that may be attached to his wheel, and makes instantaneous views as he spins along the road, or dismounts and takes in some beautiful bit of scenery.

The boys, and also the girls, have seized upon this fascinating pursuit, and the gardens and conservatories have been converted into studios, where every member of the family, including the baby and the pet animals, have been posed, and their pictures bear witness to the triumph and delight of the young artists. Amateur photographers, male and female, may be found during the season at the summer resorts by the sea or at the breezy mountain house; wherever the well-to-do citizen takes his family for rest and recreation during the "dog days," there will the tripod be set up and the Camera will record the topography of the vicinity.

For every one of these thousands of amateurs there [p142] is something to learn before he or she can succeed in producing a picture; to know how to make a photograph never comes by intuition, but must be acquired by study and practical experiment. This need not be prolonged or difficult, and the purpose of these pages is to afford the beginners that instruction, which will enable them to surmount the difficulties of a new and untried pursuit; to open up to them the knowledge that will enable them to bring the little dry plate and the quantum of pyro together, so that they may tell a story, the constantly varying changes of which will afford ever renewing delight, a pleasure gained without undue fatigue and never followed by regret or pain. One little gem of a negative or transparency will afford the maker more real pleasure, than many a costlier amusement.

THE AMATEUR OUTFIT.

The number and variety of outfits manufactured for the use of amateurs are so great that the question of selection becomes one of more than ordinary interest and importance. Indeed, this fact is impressed upon the mind and fully established when one undertakes [p143] to inspect and examine the variety exhibited by one house alone, but when one has seen the stock of all the different large concerns and has examined the bewildering variety, he becomes aware of the immensity of the demand that has brought into existence such an enormous supply; for here, beside the toy outfit for the child of ten or twelve years, he will see the perfect equipment for the professional photographer, and every possible grade between, in every style of finish and ornamentation, and all supplied with so many appliances for easy handling and accurate adjustment as to astonish one at the amount of skill and ingenuity exhibited by the makers.

It is not the intention of the writer of these pages to describe this great variety of apparatus; having himself used with success and pleasure the instruments of the great house of E. & H. T. Anthony & Co., he will merely point out some of the advantages of and the valuable improvements lately added to their amateur photographic equipments.

The amateur preparing for the field will find it necessary to provide himself first with the apparatus necessary to the making of negatives; these articles constitute the viewing outfit. Having made himself familiar with the use of the camera and lens, he may next provide himself with the chemical constituents of the developer and proceed to develop his own plates. These chemicals and the necessary dishes, etc., constitute the developing outfit.

It is recommended that the beginner confine himself at first to the preliminary of selecting his views and making the exposures, taking his plates to some photographic establishment to be developed, where he [p144] may learn as to the correctness of exposure, and receive such information in connection therewith as may be of benefit afterwards.

Having made himself somewhat proficient in exposing, he may then take up the development and enjoy the true delight of the amateur in witnessing the growing of the picture upon his developing plate.

With this end in view, then, we will proceed to consider, describe and explain the apparatus of an outfit, the construction thereof, and how to use the same.

THE VIEWING OUTFIT CONSISTS OF:

Sensitive dry plates and
Plate holders or shields,
The Camera box,
The view lens,
The tripod or Camera stand,
The instantaneous shutter,
The focussing cloth, and a
Carrying box to contain the whole.

It is necessary that the beginner should receive some instruction in the use of each of these articles, and for that purpose we will consider them in the order above given.

DRY PLATES.

The manufacture of dry plates has now reached such a state of perfection that the purchaser may procure them of every grade of sensitiveness, each of the several grades of a perfect uniformity and all of them very free from imperfections and blemishes. And also the prices have been so reduced of late that the incentive to manufacture on the part of individuals for their own use is almost entirely lacking. However, there may be found [p145] a certain interest and fascination in preparing plates for one's own use, which would prompt some to incur the outlay and trouble incidental to such a course, and for those full instructions and formulæ may be found in the first part of this book.

It will, however, be found, after due trial, that for work of importance, and where certainty of results is desired, it will be better to procure the plates of some maker of established reputation, and of such a grade of sensitiveness as will be most suitable for the work in hand.

Certain makers of dry plates use the Sensitometer to ascertain the degree of rapidity of each and every emulsion produced in their works. The ascertained degree of rapidity is indicated on each box of plates by the Sensitometer number--the higher the number, the more sensitive the plate. The highest numbers attained up to this time are from 20 to 25, and these numbers would indicate a very high degree of sensitiveness, such as render plates of 23 to 25 quite suitable for work requiring the shortest possible, in fact, instantaneous, exposures, such as bodies in motion across the plane of focus. Views of still life are better made with plates of a lesser degree of rapidity.

The handling of dry plates of such extreme rapidity requires great care. The boxes should never be opened, even the outer wrappings should not be removed, except in the darkened room and by such a light as that produced by Carbutt's dry plate lantern or some similar device. When plates are taken from the boxes for the purpose of fitting the holders, they will be found to have one clear, smooth and shining surface. This is the back of the plate and is clear [p146] glass; the other surface is of the same color, but of a mat or dead color, not reflecting so much light. This is the sensitive surface, and before being placed in the holder or shield it should be brushed with a soft, flat camel's hair blender, to remove any dust that may be attached to the surface. This brush should be used for no other purpose; and should be used without pressure, merely touching the surface of the plate. The plate may then be put in the plate carrier of the shield, with the sensitive surface outward, and when the carrier is run into its place in the holder, the sensitive surface is next the slide or door. It is of some importance that attention should be given to this manipulation, as it not unfrequently occurs that the wrong side of the plate is turned outward and the image, when the plate is exposed, is made through the glass and against the back of the film, and is reversed and thus rendered worthless, even should a good impression have been secured.

The holders or shields for dry plates for out-door work are always--except in the largest sizes--made double, each holder containing two plates.

[p147]

The diagram exhibits the plate holder, 3, with the plate carrier, 1, partly drawn out; the slide or door corresponding to 2 is withdrawn to show the interior of the holder, 3, and the spring that presses the plate into focus, when pushed into the carrier, 1. This carrier presents the same appearance on the other side and will hold two plates. When filled with plates, it is pushed into its place in the holder, 3, and the brass loops or fasteners, 4, are pressed down flat, thus securely holding it in place. When the holder is put in place at the back of the Camera the slide, 2, next the box, is pulled out quickly and in a perfectly level position, so that the spring shut-off may close instantly and permit no light to enter the opening. The lens must be covered before the slide is pulled out. The exposure is then made and the slide is returned to its place in the same manner, carefully observing that one corner is not entered first, but the end must be inserted into the groove squarely and pushed quickly home. If another exposure is to be made immediately, the holder is removed and the opposite side placed next the box, and the same process is repeated, covering the lens, removing the slide, make the exposure by removing the cover of the lens and replacing it, then return the slide to its place. When a second exposure is not made at once, with a pencil or in some other manner mark the side that has been exposed, to prevent any mistake. When both plates are exposed, return the holder to the carrying case and take the next, if you carry more than one. Usually a half dozen holders are carried, which gives command of one dozen plates, which should be quite enough for one outing. [p148]

Having exposed the plates, the holders are returned to the carrying case, and should not be removed therefrom until they are taken into the dark room for development, when, by the aid of some safe light, they may be removed from the holders, one at a time, and developed, or all taken out and put into a negative box, to be ready for development when convenient.

THE VIEW CAMERA FOR AMATEURS.

In an article on Cameras, in the first part of this work, we have given a very accurate description of the View Camera for professional photographers.

The View Camera, as manufactured for amateurs, is smaller, lighter and more compact, and, in many cases, more highly finished and ornamented than those made to stand the rough usage of hard work.

Beginning with the smallest, we have the

DETECTIVE CAMERA.

This Camera is focussed once for all by means of a ground glass which slides in the place to be afterwards [p149] occupied by the double dry-plate holder, for objects of various distances, and the position of the focussing lever on top of the Camera is marked for each distance. After this the ground glass may be entirely dispensed with, as it is then only necessary to estimate the distance of the object to be photographed, and move the focussing lever to the mark corresponding to that distance, when the Camera will obviously be in focus.

The small lens in the upper left-hand corner serves to throw the picture on a piece of ground glass on the top of the Camera, thus showing the position of the image on the plate. When the picture appears in proper position on this ground glass, it is only necessary to touch the button on the right of the Camera, and the exposure of the plate is instantly made, its development being afterward accomplished in the ordinary manner.

The slide is then replaced in the plate-holder, which, being reversed, the shutter reset and the other slide drawn out, everything is ready for the next shot.

This Camera is made to carry in the hand, and is held against the side under the arm while exposures are made. A tripod or stand is not required. The plate-holders are carried in a small satchel, with a strap passing over the shoulder. The new sensitive paper film, however, obviates the necessity of carrying more than one holder, which will contain a band on which may be made 24 exposures, and which is of no greater weight than one of the double holders when filled with 2 glass plates.

This Camera is calculated to make pictures 3-1/4 by 4-1/4 inches in size, and they are technically called quarter plate size. [p150]

THE PATENT BIJOU CAMERA.

This little Camera is the neatest, nattiest and altogether nicest Camera of its kind ever made. When folded it measures 5×5×3-1/2 inches, and can readily be put in an ordinary hand-grip, or may even be carried in the overcoat pocket. It weighs only 14-1/2 ounces, and the holders are correspondingly light and compact.

It has a sliding front, hinged ground glass, and folding bed, which is provided with a novel arrangement for fixing it in position, enabling the operator to adjust it in a few seconds. It is made of mahogany, with a new hard finish, flexible bellows and brass mountings, making a remarkably elegant little instrument.

As the plate is the same size as those used with magic lanterns, slides may be made from them by contact printing in an ordinary printing frame. By using rapid printing paper in connection with the enlarging lantern, the pictures may be made as large as desired. For tourists, to whom weight and bulk are objections, this Camera is of especial value.

The introduction of the Schmid Detective Camera was a pronounced success. The popular favor with which it was received stimulated the manufacturers to [p151] greater exertions to supply a perfect and effective instrument, against which no objections whatever could possibly be raised. With this object in view, they have placed on the market

ANTHONY'S PATENT SATCHEL DETECTIVE CAMERA.

In outward appearance, and to the ordinary observer, this latest modification of the Detective Camera looks exactly like an alligator hand-satchel that is carried by a shoulder-strap at the side of the pedestrian. Upon closer observation, one sees that it consists of an artfully concealed Detective Camera, in which all the various movements to secure a picture are situated upon the under side. For use, the Camera is held so that the base of the satchel rests against the body of the operator. By means of a brass pull at the side the shutter is set. A plate in the regular holder is placed in position at the back cf the Camera, and the slide is drawn ready for exposure. The release of a short catch exposes the front of the shutter ready for action, [p152] and by raising a small leather-covered lid the little camera obscura, called the finder, on the (now) upper side of the Camera, shows the position that the object will occupy on the plate. The slightest touch upon a small brass button releases the shutter, and the exposure is made. Replacing the slide in the plate-holder, reversing the holder, and setting the shutter again, leaves the apparatus in readiness for another shot, when the plate-holder slide is withdrawn as before.

By removing a screw that takes the place of the spring lock of an ordinary satchel, the Camera proper can be removed from its cover, and a tripod screw serves to attach the Camera to a tripod for ordinary use.

This last form of the Detective Camera allows the operator to carry with him twelve plates in the interior of the apparatus, and so carefully packed away that no light can strike them. It is also furnished with an [p153] ingenious attachment by which the speed of the shutter can be regulated to suit the speed of the object, moving with greater or less velocity; while, by simply releasing a catch, time exposures can be made at the will of the operator. In fact the whole affair is the latest achievement in ingenious and compact light photographic apparatus.

AMATEUR EQUIPMENTS FOR FIELD WORK.

The manufacturers of these goods, for the convenience of those at a distance who might desire to order by [p154] mail, have classified and catalogued these outfits of the various sizes as view equipments, and have numbered them from 1 upwards.

Stained Camera, for making pictures vertically or horizontally, measuring 4×5 inches, with one double dry-plate holder, fine single achromatic lens, improved tripod, and carrying case.

This is called the $10 equipment, and by which very beautiful and perfect work may be done, examples of which, as negatives and transparencies, may be seen at the warerooms, and only need to be seen to be admired. For a complete descriptive catalogue of these goods, send to Messrs. E. & H. T. Anthony & Co.

THE FAIRY CAMERA.

There has long been a demand on the part of the public for a Camera that would at once embrace these most necessary requirements--portability, compactness and strength, combined with beauty and accuracy of working.

Hitherto the nearest approach to this has been the "Novel" Camera, which for a time seemed to be everything [p155] that could be desired. But urgent calls for something still better were frequently made, and the result is the Fairy Camera, by far the most attractive and elegant piece of apparatus of its kind ever offered. In presenting it, attention is invited to the following advantages it possesses over all others.

_Strength._--They are put together as rigidly as wood and metal will admit of, and are therefore _perfectly_ rigid.

_Compactness._--They occupy less space than any other view Cameras of the same capacity, and the plate-holders actually require little more than one-half the room of the lightest of any others in use. The plate-holders are made of hard wood, with metal carriers for the plates, and fitted with all the later improvements.

_Portability._--The small compass to which they may be reduced renders them in this respect incomparably superior to any. They are packed in canvas-covered wooden cases, and each double plate-holder has its own compartment. The cover of its case telescopes over its body.

Several new features have been availed of in the construction of this Camera, to wit: The bed may be instantly rendered rigid, _without the use of screws_, by means of a brace of hooks, that hold the two sections of the bed with great firmness.

_Secondly._--The rabbet commonly found on the plate-holder is dispensed with, and instead, it is placed on the Camera, thus saving the otherwise additional weight rendered necessary for twelve such rabbets when made on the plate-holders (two on each of the six usually carried), and the not inconsiderable item of three-quarters of an inch in bulk.

_Third._--The Camera is focussed with a long, continuous [p156] metallic rack, cog-wheel and pinion, the latter being held firmly in position by a binding screw.

The ground glass swings backward in its frame, like that in the regular Novel Camera, and is held tightly in position by metallic spring corners. When windy, this is a decided advantage.

The Fairy Camera is made in finely polished mahogany, the metal work being nickel-plated, thus making it the most elegant and perfect Camera known.

They are made with and without stereoscopic attachments. Naturally, those without stereoscopic attachments are lighter and more compact than those with, and may be preferred by persons desiring to make single views or portraits only.

These Cameras are made in four sizes only--from 4-1/4×6-1/2 to 8×10. Those desiring a larger Camera should procure the Novel Camera, which is manufactured of all sizes up to 18×22.

[p157]

An ingenious improvement has been introduced in connection with the Fairy and Novelette Cameras, which is shown in the cut.

It consists in the use, with a 5×8 Camera, an additional body and bellows for 8×10, which can be attached to the front and bed of the 5×8 on removal of the 5×8 bellows to back. This substitution can be made in a few seconds, giving the user the command of two Cameras at small expense.

THE VIEW LENS.

(_See article on lenses in Part First._)

View lenses may be classed in two groups:

Single combination lenses and double combination lenses.

Single combination lenses are intended for producing pictures of inanimate objects, in the production of which the time of exposure is of minor importance. They are of greater focal length than the double, and, on account of their simple form, are less expensive.

The combination consists of a meniscus, composed of two lenses, one convergent, the other divergent. The two are cemented together, so that only two surfaces are presented to reflect light. This lens is well calculated [p158] for out-door work, but does not give such roundness of form nor such delicacy and finish as may be obtained by the double combination. But it has greater depth of focus, and, having but two reflexive surfaces, fits it peculiarly for views of foliage, and enables it to work into the green of the landscape more completely and vigorously.

The single lens is not free from distortion. The marginal rays are apt to give the barrel-shape figure to the view, but for landscapes this is practically of little or no consequence.

The smaller sizes of single lenses are more effective than the larger. They are quicker and have much less distortion, and when stopped very small have practically none.

THE DOUBLE COMBINATION

is formed by reversing the single lens and making it the front lens of the double combination, and adding a similarly constructed achromatic lens to the rear. These lenses are indispensable for very rapid work and for work requiring straight lines. As the double combination is more perfectly corrected for spherical aberration, it is better adapted for architectural and other work not admitting of distortion. Of this class of lenses we would recommend ANTHONY'S RAPID DRY PLATE LENS, [p159] which has a double achromatic combination for making instantaneous views, portraits groups, etc., and will meet all the requirements of those who do not care to incur the expense of a Dallmeyer or other first-class lens.

Of a higher class is THE PLATYSCOPE LENS, which is a rectilinear or perfectly corrected lens of great working rapidity, and is well suited for all the requirements of the amateur; and as to price, it holds a middle place and next to the DALLMEYER'S RAPID RECTILINEAR LENS, which is the most perfect instrument at present known to the profession, and is almost universally used by professional out-door photographers and by all amateurs who care to produce the finest possible work. This lens might be considered indispensable for all [p160] work requiring an instantaneous exposure, as by means of the dry plate and the drop shutter some very remarkable pictures have been made of bodies in rapid motion.

WIDE ANGLE LENSES.

There is another class of lenses of double combination, which are called wide angle lenses. They are constructed to embrace an angle of from 90 to 100 degrees, and are therefore indispensable for use in confined situations, such as narrow streets and interiors. They are also capable of being used with advantage for all the purposes of a view-lens, their only disadvantage being that they are not so rapid as lenses of a lesser angle. For certain subjects the back lens of the combination may be removed and the front lens used in the same manner as an ordinary landscape lens.

THE E. A. WIDE ANGLE-LENS

is of this class, and being of short focus and made on the rectilinear principle, it is a useful lens for all the purposes already enumerated, and for architectural subjects, as well as for copying of maps, drawings, printed matter, etc., etc.

Every amateur should possess one of these lenses, as [p161] well as one of the more rapid-acting lenses for instantaneous work, unless he can well afford to get the best.

DALLMEYER'S WIDE-ANGLE RECTILINEAR LENS

will completely fill the bill. This lens consists of two cemented combinations, each composed of a deep meniscus crown and a deep concavo-convex flint glass lens.

Unlike other lenses of this class the dense refracting medium--the flint--is made to occupy the external position in both combinations, and though both are deep menisci externally, and of nearly the same focal lengths, the front combination is of larger diameter and greater curvature than the back, and between the two, dividing the space in the proportion of their respective diameters, is placed the revolving diaphragm, with graduated openings, the largest of which is F. 15.

An important characteristic of this instrument, besides the method of achromatization, is the thinness of the lenses, thus offering less obstruction to the passage of the light, constituting these lenses the quickest acting of their kind.

The outfit, which includes a Dallmeyer wide angle and a Dallmeyer rapid rectilinear, may be said to be prepared to do all work within the range of photography.

Every outfit should include a piece of fine, soft chamois [p162] skin for cleaning the lenses; it will often be found that moisture and dust obscure the image in the ground glass; when such is the case the lenses should be unscrewed and carefully cleaned with the chamois. And when carrying, it would be well to wrap each lens in a piece of chamois. Lenses thus carefully kept will repay the trouble in fine, clear and incisive work.

THE TRIPOD OR CAMERA STAND.

There are a variety of these stands manufactured, the two principal of which are the Telescopic leg, Fig. 1, and the Folding leg, Fig. 2. Among the lighter stands or tripods [p163] THE FAIRY TRIPOD deserves particular mention, being less than two pounds (2 lbs.) in weight and folding to a length of 16 inches only. When placed in its neat leather case, with shoulder-straps for carrying, it is the smallest and lightest practical tripod that has yet been offered to the public.

The tripod, when not in use, is taken apart, the top placed in the carrying box, and the legs folded or telescoped and tied together.

When set up for work be sure to have the tripod top level, which may easily be done by adjusting the legs to the inequalities of the ground.

The Camera is fastened to the tripod top by a thumb-screw, which passes up from beneath, through the tripod top, and into the leg of the box. When adjusted tighten the screw firmly. [p164]

THE INSTANTANEOUS SHUTTER.

The rapid dry plate and the quick acting lens have created a necessity for a shutter that would make an instantaneous exposure, in order that sharp pictures might be made of objects in motion.

This has been accomplished in a variety of forms, the earliest and simplest of which is

THE DROP SHUTTER,

which consists of two pieces of wood, each having a hole cut into it, and so arranged that when one piece is placed upon the end or hood of the lens (which fits into the circular opening), the other piece can be made to slide up and down against it, thus for an instant bringing the two openings opposite, and making the exposure depend upon the rapidity with which one opening passes the other.

Fig. 1 represents the common form, in which the release is made by the withdrawal of a metal catch, which fits the indent in the side of the sliding upright piece. Fig. 2 represents an improved form, in which the release is made by pressing a rubber bulb connected with a rubber tube attached to a metal valve.

The action of both these styles of drop shutter may be hastened by using rubber [p165] bands to quicken the fall of the sliding piece, as represented in Fig. 2 by A and B. So that while a rapid exposure might be made by the fall of the slide, by its own weight, it would not be quick enough for an object moving across the plane of focus, but might be sufficient for an object moving away from or toward the lens. By the use of the rubber bands the exposure may be made as quick as a flash, or the small fraction of a second, thus enabling one to secure a sharp impression of the trotting horse, the railroad train, the racing yacht, and many other interesting and difficult subjects.

Another peculiarly effective form of shutter is that known as THE PROSCH ECLIPSE SHUTTER, which is a small and compact instrument, made of metal and rubber, by which an exposure of 1/200 part of a second may be made, with the power of reducing the speed to about one-half second.

[p166]

A late and decided improvement on the Eclipse Shutter has been produced by Mr. Prosch, which he has named the "Duplex."

Prosch's Duplex Shutter is intended both for "timed" and instantaneous exposures.

It is equal to any requirement for the most rapid work, and as a time shutter, exposures can be made of from one-half second to any duration required.

The peculiarity of this shutter is that the exposing slides are placed between the front and back combinations of the lens, necessitating a separation of the tube at the centre. [p167]

Mr. Prosch makes a special tube to which is affixed the apparatus of the shutter. This special tube is of the exact size of that to which the lenses belong, from which the lenses are taken and fitted to the special tube. The other is kept for future use if necessary.

THE CARRYING BOX.

All this apparatus is, with the exception of the tripod, enclosed in a neat carrying case, with a telescopic cover, and is carried with a hand-strap. The box contains separate places for from one to six double holders, as may be desired. And there is room for the head-cloth, and an extra box of plates if necessary.

The head-cloth furnished with this apparatus is a light rubber-covered muslin, about a yard or a yard and a quarter square, and its principal use is to cover the head and exclude light from the ground-glass while adjusting the focus. It may also be used to cover the apparatus if caught out in a shower, or to wrap the carrying case in under the same circumstances.

THE DEVELOPING OUTFIT FOR AMATEURS.

The amateur is recommended to get some experience in making exposures before attempting to develop.

By taking plates to some photographic establishment for development, and observing carefully the method of manipulating them, one will soon learn about the proper exposure to allow; and then the advice of the operator may be of some value.

There may, however, be some who are so situated as to be unable to avail themselves of such an opportunity, and are compelled to rely on printed instructions for all they have to do. To such we have only to say, [p168]

DO NOT OVER-EXPOSE,

then go ahead and do the best you can.

The outfit for development would consist first of the apparatus or dishes; second, of the chemical components of the developer, and the clearing and fixing solutions.

The dishes or apparatus are:

Developing trays,

Tray or dish for alum solution,

Tray or dish for fixing solution,

Washing box,

Negative racks,

Glass stoppered bottles,

2 of 1 lb. each for pyro and soda,

2 of 1/2 gallon each for oxalate and iron,

2 of 1/2 gallon each for alum and hypo,

Glass graduates,

1 of 8 oz., 1 of 1 oz,

Glass funnels,

Filtering paper,

A balance scales for weighing 1 grain to 1/4 lb.

The developing tray is made of japanned iron, of ebonite or of hard rubber.

These are all made to suit the various sizes of plates in use; the japanned iron trays are the cheapest, but they wear out rapidly; the ebonite trays are rather [p169] higher in price, but they are more durable, and have a clean polished surface. The hard rubber dishes are the most expensive, and perhaps the most durable.

The amateur should procure his trays of a size suitable for the largest plate he uses, and should have two or more on hand always for developing purposes. These dishes are also suitable for the clearing and fixing solutions; but for these solutions the upright bath dish and dipper are better for several reasons; first, because there is less evaporation; second, all sediment sinks to the bottom, and the solution is always clean; and last, but not least, they take up less room.

THE WASHING BOX.

The gelatine plate requires much and prolonged [p170] washing to free it from the solutions by which it is developed and fixed, and which, if not thoroughly washed from the film, would ultimately injure and perhaps distroy it An apparatus has been devised for washing dry plates, which may be adapted to any size plate from 4×5 to 8×10.

It has a perforated false bottom, the water is received into the box beneath the bottom, passes up through the perforations and out through a pipe at the side; the plates are placed in the grooves and rest on the false bottom. The force of the water is checked in passing through the false bottom and flows evenly up through the plates. A half hour of washing in this box would be quite enough to thoroughly cleanse the film from hypo, etc.

Another and very effective model is the ANTHONY SELF-CHANGING SHOWER WASHING BOX.

[p171]

The Anthony Self-Changing Shower Washing Box for dry plate negatives is a nicely constructed and convenient apparatus. Made substantially, and well japanned inside and out, it has interior grooves in which either 5×8 or 8×10 negatives may be placed. When the negatives are introduced, the hose is attached to a faucet; the lid is now closed and locked if desired, and the water turned on.

It will be seen that the water enters the washer from above, and that the inside of the lid is made in the form of a perforated fountain, which discharges a spray over the plates. When the negatives are entirely submerged, the water is all drawn off by means of a self-acting syphon, and the process of showering is repeated.

With this apparatus the hypo can be thoroughly eliminated from the gelatine film in from fifteen minutes to half an hour. The change of water is continuous.

When the plates are well washed they are removed from the washing box and set up in

NEGATIVE RACKS,

where they will soon dry, and when dry they should be stored in boxes to be kept free from dampness and dust.

[p172]

These boxes are made of every size and are indispensable for the proper preservation of dry plates.

CHEMICAL COMPONENTS OF THE DEVELOPER.

The solutions for developments, both by the neutral oxalate and the alkaline pyro processes, should be kept in air-tight glass-stoppered bottles; in fact, rubber stoppers are superior to glass for keeping out the air, and when they can be had should be preferred.

Glass funnels and filtering paper for filtering the various solutions should always be kept handy for use.

Glass graduates are quite indispensable in preparing and mixing the developing solutions.

A balance scale is equally necessary for the same purpose.

The chemical constituents of the developing outfit are:

Neutral oxalate of potash,

Protosulphate of iron, for oxalate development,

Sulphite of soda,

Sal-soda or carbonate of soda,

Carbonate of potash, [p173]

Bromide of ammonium,

Concentrated ammonia,

Pyrogallic acid, for alkaline pyro development, etc.,

Alum and citric acid, for clearing solution,

Hyposulphite of soda, for fixing solution.

THE AMATEUR DARK ROOM.

It is not necessary that the amateur should have a thoroughly appointed dark room, although such a room is a great convenience and not at all difficult to construct nor expensive to keep up.

Those desiring to construct a convenient and safe dark room should consult the article on dark room in the first part of this book. Such a room might be put up in an out-building where running water could be had, but for occasional use the bath-room or any closet in the house that contained running water and is large enough to hold a small table would answer every purpose. It would be necessary to stop every crevice that would admit white light, by covering such places with heavy red orange paper. The window, if there is one, may be covered with the same paper or a heavy shawl. The room may then be lighted comfortably with Carbutt's Dry Plate Developing Lantern, which may set upon the table with the developing tray before, as in the cut.

When abroad making views it is sometimes necessary to change the plates in the holders; for this purpose carry with you a ruby glass gas burner chimney, which is a plain cylinder of ruby glass, about one and a half inches in diameter and six to eight inches long. Light a short piece of candle and set the chimney over it; this in any small dark closet will give plenty of [p174] light for the purpose, and indeed might do to develop by at a pinch.

FERROUS OXALATE DEVELOPMENT OF DRY PLATES. (ROCHE.)

First make two stock solutions as follows:

No. 1. A saturated solution of oxalate of potash (a pint or quart) and test with blue litmus paper. If it does not show an acid reaction dissolve a little oxalic acid in water and add enough to the solution to cause the blue test paper to turn red.

This solution should be filtered for use.

No. 2. Make a saturated solution of pure sulphate of iron, and to one quart add three or five drops of sulphuric acid, to prevent oxidation, and filter.

Now, to develop a 5x8 plate, take three ounces of No. 1 and to this add one quarter of a dram of bromide of potassium solution (which is water one ounce, bromide of potassium twelve grains), then add half an ounce of No. 2; this forms the developer. [p175]

Then transfer the plate to a developing disk, and pour over it the developer. If the picture comes out gradually and develops sufficiently, it is good so far, but if from under-exposure the details hang back and refuse to develop further, then add two drams, or half an ounce, more of No. 2, which will bring out the picture with full details, unless greatly under-exposed.

Never exceed one ounce of No. 2 (iron) to three ounces of No. 1 (potash), for if you do you will form a sandy deposit and discontinue the action of the developer.

Always develop until the picture seems sunken into the surface. Do not judge by looking through the negative only. Wash and fix in hypo, 1 ounce; water, 8 to 10 ounces. After fixing, wash well.

For pictures taken instantaneously, use no bromide in the developer.

COOPER'S SODA DEVELOPER.

No. 1. Anthony's Sodium Sulphite Crystals 3/4 lb.
Distilled water 2 qts.
Anthony's Pyrogallic Acid 2 ozs.

No. 2. Anthony's Sal Soda Crystals 1/2 lb.
Water 2 qts.

To develop, take

No. 1 2 ozs.
No. 2 2 "
Water 2 "

For restraining over-exposure use the above quantity of developer, one-half to one dram of

Bromide potassium 1 oz.
Water 6 "

"It is always advisable to use two developing trays, [p176] and have the normal developer in one and the restrained developer in the other. Then, by changing the plate from one tray to the other, the character of the negative is under full control. Four to six plates can be developed in one lot of developer.

"This developer can be used for a number of plates, and gives fine negatives of good printing quality.

"After development, return your old developer to a stoppered bottle, and keep for commencing development.

"The reason for doing this is as follows:

"As a rule, I give a little more time than necessary to make a full-timed negative, and, by commencing with the old developer, give the high lights a start of the shadows, which I can readily soften afterwards by the use of a stronger developer at the finish, thus obtaining the sparkling high lights so much admired in the wet plate; and so seldom found in the average Dry Plate Pictures.

"This developer never becomes muddy, and may be used repeatedly with fine effect.

"Always place plates in a strong solution of alum after developing and rinsing, and before fixing. This gives brilliancy to the negative and prevents the possibility of softening.

"In the use of the above formula it is important that the best Chemicals be employed."

It is not necessary to make up the full amount of 2 oz. pyro at one time.

In the foregoing two formulæ will be found all that is necessary for making good negatives by either process.

Every box of plates that is put up for sale carries [p177] with it the formula supposed to be best for that plate. There are other forms of development that produce good work. The following is one of them:

FERRO-CYANIDE OF POTASSIUM DEVELOPER.

Make a saturated solution of yellow prussiate of potassium and dilute with an equal bulk of water; add 2 drops of ammonia and 2 grains of dry pyro to each ounce used.

The solution can be used repeatedly until exhausted. Four ounces of this solution would contain 8 grains of pyro, which is enough to develop 2 8×10 plates, or their equivalent of smaller plates. Mix only the amount that will be used at one sitting.

It will be noticed in all the foregoing formulæ that the matter of greatest uncertainty is the exposure of the plate; you never can tell if your plate is properly exposed until you begin to develop, and then if your picture flashes out at once it is too late to correct by modifying the developer.