Chapter II: Preface (2)

=Crinkle, or Seersucker.=--Names given to striped fabrics of the Crimp type. Seersucker originally meant a silk fabric.

=Cross-dyed.=--Cross-dyed goods may be described as fabrics woven with black or coloured cotton warps and wool or worsted fillings and afterwards dyed in the piece. This process is resorted to because the warp and filling of a fabric woven with a cotton warp and a wool filling, and then piece-dyed, would not become identical in colour, as cotton and wool have not the same attraction for dye. Cross-dyeing is generally used in mohair, alpaca, and lustre fabrics, and the principal cloths in this classification are cotton warp figured Melroses, Florentines, Glacés, Brilliantines, Lustres, Alpacas, and Mohairs. _See_ Union Cloth.

=Crossover.=--This name is given to fabrics having stripes, of either colour or weave effect, extending across the width of the cloth from selvedge to selvedge.

=Cut Goods.=--Underwear made of either ribbed or flat webbing knitted into long rolls and cut to the proper lengths and sections for garments, after which the various parts are sewed together.

=Cuttling.=--Plaiting cloth in folds; used in the same sense as lapping and folding, as opposed to rolling into bolts.

=Damask.=--The name Damask is technically applied to certain classes of fabrics richly decorated with figures of foliage, fruits, scrolls, and other ornamental patterns, usually of a large and elaborate character. The weaves usually employed are twills (mostly satin twills), and the figures in the fabric are made by alternately exchanging warp for weft surface or _vice versa_. The materials employed vary according to the purpose to which the fabrics are to be applied. In the manufacture of upholstery cloth for hangings and furniture covering, silk or worsted is used; while for table covers, towels, napkins, etc., linen is generally employed, except in the cheapest grades, when cotton is the material used. Damask was originally applied only to silken fabrics whose designs were very elaborately woven in colours and often with either gold or silver threads. Although in the majority of Damask fabrics nothing but satin twill weaves are employed (principally five and eight shaft), very good effects are obtained by combining other weaves with satin twills. Where Damasks are made all of one colour, as in white linen table covers, the effect is given by the threads lying at right angles to each other; the light falling upon them brings the pattern in bold relief and makes it easily visible.

=Damassé.=--Applied to fabrics having a rich woven design. Similar to Damask.

=Delaine.=--A term applied to plain-woven materials made "of wool." The term probably originated in France and was applied there to all plain-woven fabrics of light weight made of wool. As used at present, the term may be combined with another name, and then purely designates the nature of the material used in the manufacture of the fabric, such as in Muslin Delaine.

=Denim.=--A stout cotton warp-faced twill cloth, generally woven as a four-end twill. The warp is dyed either blue or brown before weaving, whilst the weft is grey; they are both of coarse counts. Denim, being a warp-faced material, has the warp on the surface; and as the warp is made of coloured yarns, the cloth when woven shows a solid coloured surface. The back of the fabric shows the bulk of the weft threads, and these, being in the grey, give the back of the cloth a distinctive lighter colour than the face of the cloth. Like all warp-faced twill weave, the back of the cloth shows a plain-weave effect. Denims have generally a white edging forming the selvedge; they range from medium to heavy weight and are largely used in the manufacture of workmen's overalls.

=Derby Rib.=--Applied to hosiery having six ribs on the face alternating with three on the back.

=Diagonal.=--This name is applied to plain or figured twills of bold character and originates in the twill effect, which, in relation to the length of the fabric, runs in a diagonal direction. This twill effect is produced by raising warp threads in groups in a progressive order, the filling thus making them stand out in ridges or heavy twill.

=Diaper.=--This term as applied to fabrics is used to describe two distinct styles, the first of which consists of a small diamond weave, while the second and true Diaper has rectangular figures or dice interwoven on the Damask principle. In cotton fabrics it is confined to diced or diamond reversible patterns on a small scale. The weave is produced by the interchanging of warp and weft. In linen fabrics, also, it is used to produce diced, diamond, and bird's-eye patterns, and also small reversible Damask patterns. In some districts the names Dorneck and Diced are used instead of Diaper.

=Dimity.=--A fine cotton fabric, plain or printed, having a cord design running lengthways of the piece. The figures are often arranged in alternate stripes and appear as if embossed, this effect being due to the coarse weft "flushes." A cheaper kind is sometimes made by arranging a reversed woven stripe of warp-face and weft-face twill on a plain ground texture.

=Discharge Printing.=--In what is known as the "discharge" style of printing, the cloth is first impregnated throughout its whole substance by being either vat-dyed or pad-dyed; then the cloth is dried, but the colour is not fixed. It is next passed through the printing machine, and chemicals having the property of preventing the development are printed on it, either alone or in combination with other colouring matters. The ground colour is then developed by steaming, and the printed pattern, white or coloured, is obtained upon a coloured ground.

=Dobbie, or Dobby.=--This name is used to describe a type of loom used for the production of certain classes of figured fabrics which have a great many points of similarity with fabrics produced by means of a Jacquard loom. The distinctive feature of a Dobby loom is the series of lattices into which pegs are inserted, which control the lifting of heald shafts in their proper order, so as to form the shed, the heald shafts being pulled down again by means of springs after having been lifted up to form a shed.

=Domestics.=--This term is used in the textile producing districts of Great Britain to denote a class of medium and heavy weight grey cloths, plain or twill woven, the better qualities of which are not exported but used for home or domestic consumption.

=Domet.=--A strong, heavy, twill-woven cotton fabric resembling Canton or Cotton Flannel, having a raised or napped surface on both sides of the fabric. Domet may be either in the grey or white and is a plain fabric.

=Double Cloth Weave.=--Where two single cloths are so woven that they are combined together and make but one, it becomes known as a Double Cloth and is the result of double-cloth weaving.

Double Cloth is woven either to obtain two well-defined and finished faces or to allow of a heavy material being made with a good quality face and with the back made up of a cloth composed of inferior material. This style of weaving is resorted to when the object is to produce certain kinds of bulky or heavy overcoating.

=Double Sole, Heel, and Toe= means an extra thread added to hosiery at points mentioned. Strictly speaking, "double" applies only to single-thread goods.

=Double Warps.=--The name double warp is used to designate various kinds of fabrics of good quality in which the warp threads consist of two-fold yarn. Not to be mistaken as designating two-ply or double-weave fabrics.

=Drap d'Été.=--Allied to Cashmere in weave, but heavier.

=Dresden.=--A small unobtrusive design in pastel colourings.

=Drills.=--Drills are strong, heavy, warp-faced fabrics woven from yarns of good quality with a three (two warp and one weft), four (three warp and one weft), or five (four warp and one weft) end twill weave. When so woven they are known as Florentine Drills, of which the khaki Drill so often met with in the Colonies is a good example. Drills are also woven with a warp sateen weave which have--as the twill effect is done away with--a smooth surface.

Drills may be either linen or cotton fabrics, grey or white, bleached or dyed, printed or striped. They average 40 yards in length per piece and vary in weight from under 10 to 12¾ pounds or over per piece and 31 inches in width. The name is from the Latin _trilex_, of three threads, and is applied to a "three-thread twilled cloth." Cotton Drill is a medium weight single cloth weighing from 4 to 6 ounces and composed of all-cotton yarns, warp, and filling, and is generally woven as a three-end twill-weave fabric.

=Drillette.=--This is a cotton fabric, finer and lighter in make than the ordinary cotton Drill. Drillette of 30-inch width is imported into Colonial markets, where it is largely used for linings and pocketing.

=Duchesse.=--A satin fabric having the back woven in flat twills, with a smooth surface.

=Duck.=--Duck is a heavy single-cloth cotton fabric made of coarse two-ply yarn of plain weave. Lighter than Canvas, Duck is woven on the same principle as Canvas. Duck on leaving the loom is finished by washing and sizing, drying and pressing; this gives the finished material a peculiar, hard, stiff feel. There are linen Ducks, but they are specially designated as Linen Ducks, the term Duck being used to denote the cotton variety.

Better qualities of Duck, such as are used for tropical suitings, are woven with a two-and-two matt dice or Hopsack weave. The term "two-and-two" means that two weft threads pass alternately under and over two warp threads, exactly as if a plain weave had been doubled and the weave worked with two threads instead of one; the plain weave is often termed a one-and-one weave. _See_ Cotton Duck.

=Dungaree.=--A stout cotton warp-faced twill cloth woven as a four-end twill from coarse-count warp and weft. The only difference between this fabric and a Denim is that in the latter the weft is grey, whereas in a Dungaree both the warp and the weft have been dyed prior to weaving. Dungaree, being a warp-faced material, has the warp on the surface, and as both warp and weft are dyed yarns, the cloth, when woven, shows a solid coloured surface.

=Duplex Prints.=--Fabrics which have one set of patterns printed on the face of the cloth and another different pattern or design printed on the reverse side are generally styled Duplex Prints. They differ from fabrics which have been printed in colour on one face, but in such a manner that the printed pattern has soaked through and shows--though less sharply--on the back of the fabric. The Duplex Print is the result of two distinct printing operations, first on one side, then on the other side, of a fabric. This being the essential condition for a Duplex Print, it follows that the two patterns need not be different. Fabrics printed on one side only, but in such a way that the design shows equally or nearly so on both sides, are not Duplex Prints.

=Dyeing.=--This term is used to describe the colouring of materials to enhance their value and appearance. There are five methods of producing colour in the fabric:--

1. Raw material dyeing.
2. Yarn dyeing.
3. Cross dyeing.
4. Mixed dyeing.
5. Piece dyeing.

Unless the process is specially mentioned when a fabric is spoken of as "dyed," it can be taken that what is meant is that the fabric was "piece-dyed," _i.e._, dyed in the piece after being taken off the loom. A dyed fabric is one which has been impregnated with some colouring matter and this irrespective of the means adopted to so impregnate it. Whether the fabric once woven has been allowed to--

1º. Remain in a dye vat soaking up dye, or

2º. Whether it has been drawn through a series of troughs
containing dye (Continuous or Pad-dyeing process) with a view to
its absorbing the dye--

is immaterial. Where both sides of a fabric are equally coloured, and where a fabric shows that there has been thorough saturation, that fabric is said to be dyed.

=Dyed and Printed.=--This term is used to designate any fabric which has been first impregnated with colouring matter either by being vat-dyed or pad-dyed, and which in addition has been ornamented by having certain designs impressed on the surface of the fabric in either one or more colours. This is known as direct printing. Fabrics may be dyed and printed by various styles of printing, such as "Discharge," which consists of printing chemicals upon dyed fabrics in designs, the chemicals causing the dye to come out wherever applied, leaving the printed design either white or in a different colour from that of the dyed ground. "Resist" or "Reserve" style of printing is a process used to obtain white figures on a coloured ground. In this process the designs are printed in substances that are impervious to the dye into which the cloth is subsequently placed. The cloth is dyed, but all parts covered by the resist agent remain white.

=Dyed Alpacianos.=--This fabric is found grouped in the Revised Import Tariff for the Trade of China under "Dyed Cottons."

Alpacianos, as the name of a fabric, seems to have fallen into disuse and is probably a very old name. Dyed Alpacianos would appear to be an all-cotton fabric piece-dyed after leaving the loom, probably averaging between 28 and 31 inches in width and about 25 yards in length per piece.

The particular weave of Alpacianos is not described in any modern book of reference dealing with textiles. Names of fabrics vary, come into fashion, and die out. Few connected with modern textile industries could describe, say, fabrics such as "Durant," "Tammy," or "Everlasting Webster," yet not so very long ago there were fabrics currently sold under these names.

=Dyed Balzarines.=--The cotton variety of this somewhat ancient fabric was an all-cotton light-weight open fabric resembling gauze, approximating 30 inches in width and 30 yards in length per piece, piece-dyed in solid colours after leaving the loom. _See_ Balzarines.

=Dyed Cambrics.=--Real Cambric is essentially a plain-woven linen fabric of light weight and soft finish, but the kind of Cambric most often met with is a cotton fabric of similar weave. Dyed Cotton Cambrics are piece-dyed after leaving the loom and, like White Cambrics, are generally finished with a smooth glazed surface. The differentiation between Cotton Cambrics and Muslins is somewhat difficult, as the term Cambric is often applied to what are in reality Muslins.

=Dyed Corduroys (Cotton).=--The term is used to describe a pile-weave ribbed cotton fabric which has been coloured in the piece with a view to enhance its value and appearance.

=Dyed Cotton Lastings.=--This fabric is a plain all-cotton twill or kindred weave material firmly woven from hard-twisted yarns and piece-dyed after weaving. Lastings enter largely into the manufacture of uppers for boots and shoes.

=Dyed Cotton Spanish Stripes.=--A plain-woven all-cotton fabric woven with a plain weave, having both surfaces raised, giving the fabric the general appearance of Flannelette; being a dyed fabric, it is piece-dyed after leaving the loom. As a distinctive feature, Spanish Stripes have a list or edge of different colour to the main body of the fabric. The warp threads are finer and harder twisted than the filling threads, which are soft and full to facilitate the raising during the process of finishing. In width this fabric may vary between 28 and 64 inches, and in length it averages 25 yards. A similar fabric woven from dyed yarns would be a coloured woven fabric and would not belong to the dyed cotton variety.

=Dyed Crimp Cloth.=--An all-cotton fabric having the distinctive "cockled" striped effect of Crimp Cloth. This cockled effect is produced by greater tension in some of the warp threads than in others. Dyed Crimp Cloth is piece-dyed after leaving the loom and is distinguishable from coloured woven Crimp Cloth, which is woven from coloured yarns. This material seldom exceeds 30 inches in width, the length per piece varies.

=Dyed Drills.=--A heavy twill-woven all-cotton fabric, the weave of which is described under "Drills," which has been dyed in the piece, _i.e._, impregnated with a Uniform colour over its whole surface.

=Dyed Figured Cottons.=--Under this heading may be grouped all such fabrics which (_a_) are made of all cotton, (_b_) are figured by having any design, large or small, woven or embossed, on their surface, (_c_) are dyed in any colour, and (_d_) are not otherwise enumerated. The fabrics coming under this heading include both fabrics which have not been subjected to any special process of finishing and those which have been so treated, irrespective of the style of finish. The ribs or reps of such fabrics, which are known as "Reps" or "Ribs," do not in themselves constitute figures. Printing produces a style of ornamentation which does not rightly belong to this class of goods, in which it must only be the result of weaving or embossing.

=Dyed Figured Cotton Italians.=--This name is used to designate an all-cotton fabric having the characteristic even, close, smooth surface of the plain Italian Cloth, but which, in addition, has had its surface ornamented with any figures, floral or geometrical effects, etc., this figuring having been produced either by means of extra threads, or by combining the warp and weft threads, or by having the pattern or outline of the design impressed, stamped, or embossed in the fabric, which, as it is a "dyed" fabric, has been coloured after leaving the loom.

=Dyed Figured Cotton Lastings.=--This fabric is essentially an all-cotton twill or kindred weave material firmly woven from hard-twisted yarn, which has been figured or ornamented in the weaving by the introduction of a small floral or geometrical design. The fabric, being a "dyed fabric," is piece-dyed. Like Plain Lastings, this material enters largely into the manufacture of uppers for boots and shoes.

=Dyed Figured Cotton Reps.=--This name is used to designate an all-cotton material which is primarily a Rep fabric. It combines the prominent reps or ribs running transversely across the face of the cloth, which is the distinctive feature of a Plain Rep fabric, with certain small figures, floral or geometrical effects, etc., which are introduced for the purpose of ornamentation. This figuring may be produced either by means of extra threads on the surface of the cloth, by the mode of interlacing the warp and the weft threads on the surface of the cloth, or by having the pattern or outline of the design impressed or stamped in the fabric, which, as it is a dyed fabric, has been coloured after leaving the loom. This kind of material averages 32 inches in width and 32 yards in length per piece.

=Dyed Figured Ribs.=--This name is used to designate a fabric which is primarily a rib material having the characteristic rep or rib running from selvedge to selvedge, or, in some cases, lengthways of the fabric, but which, in addition, has had its surface ornamented with any figures, floral or geometrical designs. This ornamentation constitutes the figuring and is produced either by means of extra threads or by having the pattern or outline of the design impressed, stamped, or embossed in the fabric, which, as it is a dyed fabric, has been coloured after leaving the loom. A Dyed Figured Cotton Rib would be an all-cotton material with an average width of 32 inches and averaging 32 yards to the piece.

=Dyed Fustians.=--Fustians embrace two classes of finished goods, some of which are characterised in finishes by a nap raised on the fabric, such as Moleskins, Beaverteens, etc. The other class comprises cut pile fabrics, variously known in the trade by distinctive names, such as Velveteen and Corduroy. Fustians are essentially all-cotton fabrics. Dyed Fustians are piece-dyed fabrics and not woven from coloured yarns.

=Dyed Imitation Turkey Reds.=--The fabric of which this class of goods is an imitation is generally a twill-faced all-cotton cloth piece-dyed with a cochineal dye, which is fast to light and washing. The Dyed Imitation Turkey Red is similar in construction of fabric, but depends for its colouring upon a chemical or synthetic dye which, while it resembles cochineal, has not the same qualities of fastness.

Dyed Imitation Turkey Reds are piece-dyed fabrics averaging in width 32 inches and in length 25 yards per piece. Fabrics coming under this heading are invariably plain, _i.e._, unornamented either through weave combination, printing, or embossing.

=Dyed in the Piece or Piece-dyed.=--These terms virtually explain themselves. When a fabric is impregnated with a uniform colour over its whole surface it is said to be dyed in the piece or piece-dyed.

Piece-dyeing is open to produce cloud spots, stains, etc., which would not appear if the yarn had been dyed previously to being woven, for in that case even if the yarn had in parts got stained it would not show as a clearly defined stain in the fabric once woven. Piece-dyed fabrics may sometimes be distinguished from yarn-dyed fabrics by unravelling threads of each kind. In the case of yarn-dyed fabrics, the dyestuff has penetrated through the yarn, while in the case of piece-dyed fabrics the dye-stuff has not the same chance of penetrating yarn as completely. The term "dyed in the grey" (_see under_ Union Cloth) has a similar meaning to "dyed in the piece" or "piece-dyed."

=Dyed Lawns= are plain-woven light-weight cotton fabrics of soft finish which have been piece-dyed, _i.e._, impregnated with a uniform colour over their whole surface after leaving the loom. They vary in weight from 1¼ to 2¼ ounces per square yard and in width from 27 to 46 inches. They answer to descriptions of White Lawns (which see), and differ from them only in regard to the fact that they are piece-dyed.

=Dyed Lenos.=--This fabric or class of fabric is an all-cotton material woven with a gauze and Leno weave and subsequently piece-dyed. The description of Leno fabrics given in a United States Government publication reads: "A term frequently used where various weaves or combination of weaves also have warp threads crossing over one or more warp threads instead of lying parallel to one another throughout the fabric. The warp threads which thus appear in a zig-zag way either on the surface or closely interwoven in the fabric, are, in addition to interlacing with the filling threads, also crossing their neighbouring warp threads that continue in a parallel line with the selvedges."

Leno fabrics generally show stripe effects, the exception to this being the All-over Leno, which resembles in weave the ordinary Cellular Cloth.

=Dyed Leno Brocade.=--This term is used to designate a fabric woven in the Leno style, that is to say, in a combination of "gauze weaving" and any other style of weave, and the term Brocade shows that it is a figured fabric having a figure chiefly constructed by weft threads floating on the surface of the material. As in this class of fabric the threads are not dyed prior to weaving, the term "dyed" shows that the material has been dyed after it has left the loom. _See also_ Lenos.

=Dyed Muslins.=--Dyed Muslin is an all-cotton fabric of light weight, plain woven, which has been piece-dyed, _i.e._, impregnated with a uniform colour over its whole surface. There is a difficulty in describing Muslins, for the term Muslin, according to one Government publication, is "a generic term for thin plain-woven cotton cloth. The name, however, is frequently used in conjunction with such names as dotted, fancy, figured, spot, check, Swiss, etc., which in each case would denote some combination weave, or as containing stripes or checks, but the fabric still preserving a light weight." From this, however, it seems clear that a Muslin is a plain non-figured fabric of light weight.

=Dyed Plain Cottons.=--Under this heading may be grouped all such fabrics which (_a_) are made of all cotton, (_b_) have a surface which has not been ornamented by the introduction of any small figures, floral or geometrical designs, whether produced by means of extra threads or by the mode of interlacing the warp and weft threads on the surface of the cloth or by having the pattern or outline of the design impressed or stamped in the fabric, (_c_) are dyed in any colour, and (_d_) are not otherwise enumerated. The fabrics coming under this heading include both fabrics which have not been subjected to any special process of finishing and those which have been so treated, irrespective of the style of finish.

=Dyed Plain Cotton Italians.=--The fabric answering to this description is primarily an all-cotton Italian Cloth whose surface does not show any ornamentation produced either by weaving, printing, embossing, or any other process. The fact that the fabric has been specially finished, to improve its appearance, by being mercerised, schreinered, gassed, silk or electric finished, does not alter its nature of a "plain" cloth. The fabric, being a "dyed" fabric, is one which has been coloured after leaving the loom. As Italian Cloths are generally woven from a black warp and grey weft and, after weaving, dyed in the piece, they are really "cross-dyed."

=Dyed Real Turkey Reds.=--Turkey Reds are a class of staples whose salient distinctive feature is the fact that the dye used in their manufacture is cochineal dye. Real Turkey Reds are absolutely fast dyed, the colour will not run when washed, and it will not appreciably fade when exposed to the action of the sun.

Turkey Reds are piece-dyed, that is to say, the cotton fabric is woven, generally a twill-faced cloth, and the piece is dyed. It is not woven of yarn previously dyed. There does exist a yarn dyed with turkey red; this, however, is principally used for weaving in to the ends of pieces of White Shirting or Sheeting certain distinguishing red weft threads, markings that are placed there by the manufacturer of the grey goods (1) to facilitate recognition of his goods when they come back from the bleacher, (2) to denominate quality of goods by acting as a distinctive mark, (3) to prevent the piece being cut at either end and the part cut off stolen whilst at the bleachers. This yarn is also used for markings which are to withstand washing without running. The cost of dyeing the grey or white fabric into a Turkey Red is often greater than the original value of the fabric.

=Dyed Reps= are fabrics which have as a predominant feature a rep or rib running transversely across the face of the cloth from selvedge to selvedge and which have been piece-dyed after leaving the loom. Even without the term "dyed" being used the term Rep by itself would generally be used to designate a dyed plain cotton fabric of the Rep variety. For particulars of weave, _see under_ Rep.

=Dyed Ribs.=--Fabrics which are either warp or weft ribbed, _i.e._, having ribs running either from selvedge to selvedge as in warp ribs, or lengthways of the material as in weft ribs, and which have been piece-dyed after leaving the loom. For particulars of distinctive weave, _see under_ Warp Ribs and Weft Ribs.

=Dyed Sheetings.=--It would appear that when a true Cotton Sheeting fabric has been dyed it is no longer known as a "Sheeting," and this is supported by the remark under the heading Sheetings which appears in a United States Government publication to the effect that "should a Sheeting be dyed or printed, it is never sold as Sheeting, but under some other name." A Dyed Sheeting would, of course, be a stout all-cotton fabric answering to the description of a Bolton Sheeting, woven from coarse yarns, as a four-shaft two-and-two twill, and measuring in width up to 120 inches; but the fabric most likely to be described as a Dyed Sheeting is the narrower variety, which is most often plain woven, measuring 36 inches by 40 to 80 yards, and slightly heavier than Shirtings of the same measurements which, subsequent to weaving, has been piece-dyed.

=Dyed Shirtings.=--The term in its narrower sense is used to designate what is virtually an all-cotton cloth, woven with a plain weave and having the warp and weft approximately equal in number of threads and counts, which has been coloured by being piece-dyed after weaving. The actual fabric, apart from the dyeing, is that of a Grey Shirting or Grey Sheeting, which are more fully described under their respective headings.

=Dyed T-Cloths.=--Piece-dyed all-cotton plain-woven fabric, woven from low-quality yarns, generally put up in 24-yard lengths.

=Dyed Velvet Cords (Cotton).=--This fabric differs from Dyed Velveteen Cords only as regards the length of the pile, which is longer or deeper in Dyed Velvet Cords than in Dyed Velveteen Cords. The difference between this fabric and Corduroys is that Corduroys have perfect half-round regular pile ribs, separated by a dividing line between each stripe or pile rib, showing both warp and filling threads, whilst Velvet Cords have no such dividing line.

=Dyed Velveteen Cords (Cotton).=--Like the plain Velveteen, this fabric is essentially an all-cotton pile fabric in which the distinguishing effect is formed by the points of the fibres in the filling yarns, termed the pile, being presented to the vision, and not the sides of the yarns as in the majority of cases. The cords are produced by a process of cutting away the pile so as to form raised cord-like corrugations running lengthways of the piece. Being a dyed fabric, it is coloured uniformly all over the piece in some solid colour. It differs from Dyed Velvet Cords only as regards the length of pile, which in the Velveteen variety is shorter. The difference between this class of material and a Corduroy is that Corduroy has a dividing line between each stripe or cord of pile, showing both warp and filling threads, whilst Velveteen Cords have no such dividing line.

=Embossed Velvet (Cotton).=--The term Cotton Velvet is generally recognised in the manufacturing and distributing trade to be a misnomer, and the material or fabric which would appear to come under this classification is in reality an Embossed Velveteen, which see.

=Embossed Velveteen (Cotton).=--This term is used to designate an all-cotton pile-weave fabric generally woven as a weft-pile weave, the pile surface, consisting of threads or fibres in the filling yarn which forms the pile, standing up at right angles to the back of the fabric. The distinctive feature of this class of fabric is the embossed design or pattern, which is essentially an indented ornamentation produced by pressure and heat. The embossing machine for giving an indented ornamentation to Velvet or Velveteen and other fabrics has engraved copper rollers, which are heated by enclosed red-hot irons or series of gas jets when operating on dampened goods. The engraved rollers have designs in intaglio, which confer a cameo ornamentation upon the fabric being embossed.

=Embroideries.=--When applied to woven fabrics this name is used to designate a fine plain-woven cloth made from fine yarns and used for embroidery purposes. Generally a linen fabric.

=End.=--When the word "end" is used in connexion with weaving it signifies the warp threads, while each filling or weft thread is called a "pick." When used to designate a class of twill-weaving such as "a five-end twill," it refers to the total number of warp and weft threads in the twill pattern; thus, "a five-end twill" designates the interlacing of four warp and one weft. Under "Twill Weave" will be found the generally recognised ways of arranging the order of interweaving.

=English Foot.=--A stocking having two seams in the foot, one on each side of the sole.

=Eolienne.=--A sheer silk and wool material. Also in silk and cotton.

=Éponge.=--A French term for Sponge Cloth.

=Equestrienne Tights.=--Tight-fitting knitted drawers for women's use, made of ribbed cloth, either with or without feet.

=Étamine.=--French name for Bolting or Sifting Cloth, generally made of silk yarn and used for the purpose of sifting flour. The term is used in America to designate mesh or net weaves.

Étamine, though often made of silk, is found also in wool, cotton, linen, etc. Plain weave and open-work structure are its salient features. It is equally used for sifting powdered solids and filtering liquids.

=Extract= is a comprehensive term used to indicate a special class of fibres which have been obtained by "pulling" or beating to pieces material which may have been milled or unmilled, but which was partly composed of cotton, this cotton being got rid of or destroyed by the treatment which is known as carbonising.

=Extracted.=--Goods in which the pattern has been printed, first applying the design with a material which, after dyeing, permits the colour, as it affects the design, to be washed out or "extracted."

=Façonné.=--Having a figure or design raised on the surface.

=Faille.=--A soft flat-ribbed silk.

=Fancies.=--Fancy is a term used to designate those fabrics which are not woven in the same way year after year, but which show variations in weave, colour, or both colour and weave. The principal Fancies of the dress goods variety are Brocades, Cuspettes, Meliores, Hopsacking, Stripes, Checks, Plaids, Mélanges, and Mixtures.

=Fents.=--When a full-sized piece of cloth is found to be imperfectly woven in parts or damaged through stains, etc., and unsaleable as a whole piece, it is cut up into short lengths; these short lengths are called "fents." The name also is applied to short lengths cut from piece ends and is equivalent to the term "remnant." The value of fents is much less per yard than for similar cloth in the full piece.

=Figured.=--When used with reference to textiles the term "figured" means that for the purpose of ornamentation certain extra threads--known as figuring threads--have been introduced on the surface of a plain ground structure or on other ground structural weaves, and afterwards allowed to lie loosely or "float" underneath the ground cloth structure. When the extra threads introduced run lengthways in the piece the figured fabric produced is known as an "extra warp" figured cloth. When, similarly, the figured effect is obtained by the introduction of extra threads running across the face of the material, the figured fabric produced is known as an "extra weft" figured cloth. The most elaborate effects, however, are produced by means of the extra warp effects. A cloth may be figured without the addition of any extra warp or weft thread but by combination of weave.

=Figured Muslin.=--When an ordinary plain-weave fabric of the Muslin variety has been ornamented by means of combination of weave or an extra thread, whilst still retaining the characteristic light weight, etc., of the true Muslin fabric, it is known as a Figured Muslin. Unless specially designated, a Figured Muslin would be an all-cotton fabric.

=Figure Weaving.=--When complicated and elaborate designs are required the cloth must be woven with the aid of a Jacquard, which is an apparatus for automatically selecting warp threads and manipulating them to facilitate the passage of the filling. This style of weave produces figured effects on the face of the fabric and is generally used to produce patterns of great width. Such figured and elaborate designs are classed under the name of Jacquards.

=Filled Cotton Cloth.=--This form of cloth has the interstices between the threads filled with glue, china clay, white lead, chalk, plaster of paris, glauber salts, glucose, or other filling substances.

=Filling.=--This term is given to the process of adding weight to a fabric by subjecting it to an operation, whereby it will have been made to absorb certain chemicals or substances. The principal filling agents are zinc chloride, magnesium sulphate, magnesium chloride, glue, gelatine, dextrine, starch, and water glass (alkali silicate). The term "filling" is also used to designate the material used in weighting the fabric and has the same value as "loading" or "weighting."

When the word "filling" is used in connexion with weaving it always signifies the weft threads, each of which is also called a "pick."

=Flannel (Woollen).=--The true Woollen Flannel should be an all-wool fabric, into the making of which no fibres other than wool enter. Woven with either a plain or twill weave, Flannel is a soft-finished material, which, in the better grades, should be of a non-shrinking character. When a very small percentage of cotton is found in so-called all-wool Flannel, it is sometimes due to cotton having remained in the machines used for the carding of the wool prior to making it into yarn. In some countries as much as 1 per cent. of cotton is allowed in an all-wool Flannel. When a higher percentage is found the fabric is no longer considered an all-wool Flannel. When cotton is made to form part of Flannel it is scribbled or carded with the wool to increase the strength of the thread and improve its spinning properties. Such yarns are known as Carded Unions and when woven will produce a Woollen Flannel, which is distinct from an all-wool Flannel. Inasmuch as the term "woollen" is commonly used in opposition to "all-wool," and that it is recognised in England that wastes, shoddy, and blends of material other than wool are referred to as "woollen," the term Woollen Flannel is applicable to a fabric that is not an all-wool material.

=Flannelette.=--Like Cotton Flannel, this fabric is woven from soft mule-spun yarn, which is more suitable for a raised material than a ring-spun yarn. Flannelette may be either plain or twill woven and may be either piece-dyed or woven with coloured warp and weft yarns to form either stripes or checks.

Flannelette is a cloth produced to imitate Flannel and has, owing to its raised surface, a "woolly" feel. By being subjected to a special treatment, Flannelette can be rendered "fireproof"; if untreated, it is a highly inflammable material. The better qualities of Flannelette are distinguished from the lower grades by the former being more closely woven in the warp, and the raised nap is shorter in the better grades. Flannelettes are sometimes printed, in which case they would be more correctly described as "Printed Flannelettes," the ordinary Flannelette of commerce not being as a rule "printed." Whereas in certain countries it is not legal to sell as "pure wool Flannel" a material containing cotton, there is nothing to prevent a manufacturer from selling as Flannelette a material in whose composition a certain amount of wool may enter. Unlike Cotton Flannel, which from its very name shows that the material is of cotton, and by inference cotton only, the term Flannelette may not always designate an all-cotton material, although by general acceptance in the trade Flannelette should be an all-cotton fabric.

=Flat Underwear.=--Goods knitted in plain stitch.

=Fleece-lined.=--Applied to a variety of heavy-weight undergarments knitted with three threads--namely, face yarn, backing yarn, and a third thread of yarn tying the face and back together. The heavy nap or fleece is produced by running the cloth through wire rolls, called brushers. The term "fleece-lined" is often misapplied to ordinary single-thread underwear which has been run through the brushing machine for the purpose of raising a light nap on the inner surface.

=Floconné.=--Having small flakes, in white or colour.

=Florentine Drills.=--When a Drill is woven with a twill weave it is known as a Florentine Drill, to distinguish it from Satin Drill, which is woven with a warp-faced sateen weave.

=Folded Yarn.=--Folded Yarn is produced by twisting together two or more single yarns. When two single threads are twisted together the Folded Yarn produced would be called a "two-fold." If the single yarn used in producing the "two-fold" yarn was of 40's count (that is to say, of yarn of which it took 40 hanks of 840 yards to weigh 1 pound), the "two-fold" yarn produced would really become equivalent to 20's count (that is to say, it would take 20 hanks to weigh 1 pound); however, it would not be referred to as being a 20's count, but as a two-fold forties and designated 2/40's. All Folded Yarns are designated by two sets of figures separated by a line, which shows on one side the number of threads folded together and on the other the "count" of the single threads thus folded together. By dividing the number of the single threads into the counts the actual number of hanks of the Folded Yarn per pound is ascertained thus:--

Two-fold 40's, written 2/40 = 20 folded hanks per pound.
Three-fold 30's, " 3/30 = 10 " " " "
Three-fold 60's, " 3/60 = 20 " " " "
Four-fold 60's, " 4/60 = 15 " " " "
Four-fold 120's, " 4/120 = 30 " " " "

All Folded Yarn is not composed of single threads of the same count. Where such Folded Yarns are met with, and when it is desired to ascertain the number of hanks of such Folded Yarn per pound, the simplest way to proceed is to take the highest count and divide it first by itself and the other counts in succession, then divide the sum of the various quotients into the highest count, and the answer will be hanks per pound:--

30 ÷ 30 = 1
30 ÷ 20 = 1½
--
2½ ) 30
--
12 Answer.
--

In folding yarn part of the length of the original threads folded is taken up in the twist; hence, when folded, they will no longer measure the regulation 840 yards per hank, but slightly under.

=Foulard.=--A soft twilled silk, usually printed.

=French Foot.=--A hosiery term meaning having only one seam, and that in the centre of the sole.

=Full Regular= (sometimes called Looped).--A term applied to hosiery or underwear in which the seams have been connected by hand knitting.

=Full-fashioned.=--A term used to designate hosiery knitted in a flat web, which is shaped by the machine so as to fit the foot, leg, or body. The webs, or sections, are sewn together to form hosiery, underwear, etc.

=Fustian.=--This name is given to designate low grades of cotton fabrics woven with a pile weave, such as Cotton Velvets, Velveteens, Corduroys, Moleskins, Cordings, etc. Fustian is also applied to such fabrics when they are made in a combination of cotton and flax or other vegetable fibre. It is more used as a generic term designating a class of fabrics than to designate one particular kind of fabric. One class of Fustians has a raised "nap" on one or both sides, and includes Cantoons or Diagonals, which have a pronounced weft twill on the face side and are used for riding breeches.

=Galatea.=--A cotton fabric having coloured stripes; the weave is usually a three-shaft, but sometimes a four-shaft, warp twill weave. The stripes may be either simply coloured, whilst retaining the twill weave, or they may be plain woven as well as coloured. This material is often used for washing uniforms for nurses and hospital attendants. The weave of Galatea is similar to that of Jean, Nankeen, or Regatta Twill.

=Gauge.=--Applied to the number of meshes or wales to the inch in underwear or hosiery. For example, a 16-gauge fabric will have 16 wales or ribs to the inch.

=Gauze Weave.=--In gauze weaving all the warp threads are not parallel to each other, but are made to intertwist more or less amongst themselves. This style of weaving produces light, open fabrics allowing the introduction of many lace-like combinations. The warp is double, one set being the usual or ground warp and the other the "douping," or warp that intertwines itself on the ground warp. Gauze weaving produces fabrics which are peculiar for their openness, lightness, and strength. When gauze is combined with plain weaving it is styled "Leno."

=Gingham.=--Gingham is an all-cotton fabric, always woven with a plain weave--a yarn-dyed cotton cloth in stripes or checks. It is woven in various grades, having from 50 to 76 ends per inch in the reed and of 1/26's to 1/40's cotton yarn in both warp and weft. It is a washing fabric made in both checks and plaid patterns, into which a great variety of colour combinations are introduced. Ginghams are made with from two colour warp and filling to eight colour in warp and six in filling. During the finishing process the loom-state fabric is sewed end on piece to piece until a continuous length of cloth of several hundred yards is obtained (this is done to facilitate handling). It is damped by a sprinkler to make it more readily take up the starch size with which it is liberally treated. One variety of Gingham known as Madras Gingham is distinctly a Shirting fabric. Ginghams, when having a highly variegated colouring, are described as Checks.

=Glacé.=--Originally applied to a fabric having a glossy, lustrous surface. Now often applied to "shot" silks, that is, plain weaves wherein the warp and filling are of different colours.

=Granité.=--A weave in which the yarns are so twisted as to create a pebbled surface.

=Grenadine.=--A somewhat elastic term used to describe an openwork, diaphanous material of silk, wool, or cotton.

=Grey, in the Grey, or Grey Cloth.=--These terms are used to designate fabrics that are in the loom state and that have been woven from yarn that was neither bleached nor dyed. A Grey Shirting would no longer be called a Grey Shirting after it had been bleached. In the woollen industry the term "grey" is applied to the web in its loom state previous to its being put through the various necessary processes to make it into a finished cloth.

=Grey Drills.=--Grey Cotton Drills are all-cotton medium and heavy weight single cloths woven from unbleached yarns as a three-shaft twill (two warp and one weft) which have not been bleached, dyed, or printed from the time they left the loom. Varying in weight according to quality, they are, however, generally put up in pieces measuring 31 inches in width by 40 yards in length. They are more fully described under Drills.

The Pepperell Drill is a Grey Drill of superior quality made from high-class yarns and exceedingly well woven.

=Grey Jeans.=--This name is given to an all-cotton fabric woven as a three-shaft twill having either (_a_) each weft thread passing over one and under two warp threads, or (_b_) each weft thread passing over two and under one warp thread, the warp and weft intersections traversing one thread and one pick further from their respective positions each time a pick of weft is inserted.

When woven as a warp-faced twill fabric from strong yarns, the cloth is often called a Drill, and is used for suitings, boot linings, corseting, etc; when woven from lighter yarns as a medium-weight weft-faced twill fabric, the cloth is largely used for linings. In width it varies from 28 and under to 31 or more inches and in length from 30 to 40 yards per piece. A "Grey" Jean is a Jean in the loom state, _i.e._, which has not been bleached by being treated with bleaching powders, etc.

=Grey Sheeting.=--There are two distinct varieties of Grey Sheeting. The first kind is used for bed sheeting and is a stout cotton cloth woven from coarse yarns, usually in a four-shaft two-and-two twill weave, and having a width of as much as 120 inches. The weave of this material being a twill weave having an equal number of warp and weft threads to the inch, the twill lines or diagonal produced will be at an angle of 45 degrees to a line drawn across the width of the material. This diagonal effect is produced by the warp and weft intersections traversing one thread and one pick further from their respective positions each time a pick or weft is inserted. This kind of Sheeting is known as Bolton Sheeting, which is a grey material, _i.e._, unbleached. In length the piece may measure up to 80 yards. The second kind of Sheeting is Waste Sheeting, made from waste and condenser wefts, _i.e._, wefts made from certain waste cotton which accumulates during the process of spinning yarn. This waste is treated by special machinery, which prepares it and spins it into a full, level, and soft yarn, which is used for weft in the weaving of Sheetings. Waste Sheetings are woven like Bolton Sheeting, with the exception of the lower qualities, which are often plain or calico woven. The lower grades of Grey Sheeting are often simply grey Calico cloths of about 36 inches in width and resembling very closely Grey Shirtings, the only difference being that they are slightly heavier in the yarn than the ordinary Grey Shirting. Grey Sheeting is generally made up into pieces of from 40 to 80 yards in length and varying in weight according to count of yarn used.

=Grey Shirting.=--A Grey Shirting is an unbleached cotton cloth woven with a plain weave and having the warp and weft approximately equal in number of threads and counts; the fabric has a plain, even surface, which, when the threads are evenly spaced, is said to be well "covered." Grey Shirting, a staple import into the Eastern markets, is made up in pieces measuring from 36 to 40 yards in length, a width of from 36 to 45 inches, and weighing from 7 to 11 pounds and over per piece, according to the count of the yarn and the amount of size used. This class of fabric has the warp threads heavily sized. The exact difference between Grey Shirtings and certain grades of Grey Sheetings is at times non-apparent. Again, a Grey Shirting may be termed a Calico, which in the trade has become a general term used to designate practically any cotton cloth coarser than Muslin.

=Grey T-Cloths.=--All-cotton plain-woven unbleached fabric of low quality and heavily sized yarns nearly always put up in 24-yard lengths. The name is said to be derived from the mark @T@ of the original exporters.

=Grosgrain.=--A silk fabric having a small ribbed effect from selvedge to selvedge. When the rib runs lengthways the fabric is known as a Millerayes.

=Habit Cloth (Woollen).=--An all-wool cloth similar to Medium, Broad, and Russian Cloth. Average width, 54 to 74 inches. In the better grades it is a high-priced fabric generally used for riding habits. Met with in dark shades of green or else in black.

=Habutai.=--A plain-weave silk, of smooth and even texture, originally made in Japan on hand looms.

=Hair-cord Muslin.=--A plain-weave fabric having stripes or checks formed by coarse threads, which stand out in a clearly defined manner.

=Hand Looms and Power Looms.=--The difference between these two kinds of looms lies in the fact that in the former (hand loom) the weaving is the result of the loom being worked and controlled by hand and foot, whereas in the power loom, whether belt driven or driven by electric motor, the power transmitted to the loom works all the essential parts, which are:--

1. Warp beam.
2. Heddles.
3. Shuttle.
4. Reed or beater-in.
5. Cloth roll.

When a power loom has been suitably tuned up, _i.e._, timed so that the various movements necessary for the forming of the "shed" and the passing of the shuttle and the beating-in occur in the right sequence and at a correct interval of time, the weaver (who, in the case of power looms, is oftener called the overlooker) only has to attend to the broken warp threads or replenishing of the weft shuttle. With a hand loom the weaver controls the heddles which form the shed, throws the shuttle carrying the weft thread through the shed, and as fast as each filling thread is interlaced with the warp beats it in close to the previous one by means of a reed which is pulled by hand towards, and recedes from, the cloth after each passage of the shuttle. This is done to make the cloth firm. The movement of the reed in the hand-power loom (or, more correctly, in the hand and foot power loom) being controlled by the weaver and not mechanically, accounts for irregularity in firmness of weave not found in fabrics woven on a power loom.

=Handle.=--This term is used either as a "wool term" in connexion with wool or as a general textile term in connexion with fabrics. As a wool term it refers or designates all the attributes which determine quality, _i.e._, softness, fineness, length, and elasticity--noticeable when wool is judged by the feel. Easier to define than to acquire, "handle" also enters into the judging of woven fabrics. It is then used to denote the hardness, harshness, softness, smoothness, etc., which similarly are factors of quality and which are often best appreciated by the sense of touch.

=Harvard Shirting.=--This style of Shirting is generally recognised by its broken twill effect, which may be combined with plain stripes, small diamond patterns, etc., woven from dyed yarns. The salient feature of Harvard Shirtings is the above effect in different colours. The ground weave is generally a two-and-two twill.

=Henrietta.=--A soft, lustrous, twilled fabric of wool; similar to a Cashmere, but finer and lighter.

=Herring-bone.=--A binding often used in facing the neck and front opening of undershirts. Also applied to the stitching which is made to cover the edge of the split sole in hosiery. Used in connexion with textiles, it is applied to striped effects produced by alternating a left-hand and a right-hand twill-weave stripe.

=Hessian.=--A strong, coarse, plain-woven packing or wrapping cloth made from jute or hemp yarns. A standard make of this material weighs 10½ ounces to the yard, is 40 inches wide, and averages 13 shots per inch.

=Hog, Or Hoggett Wool=, is another name for lambs' wool; it is the product of the first clipping of the young sheep and can be distinguished by the fact that its ends are pointed, whereas subsequent clippings yield wether wool with blunt and thickened ends.