Chapter IX: Preparing Food (1)

The knowledge of food values and their relation to the body will be of little use for practical purposes unless combined with the knowledge of how the various foods should be prepared, either by cooking or in whatever form circumstances and the material may require. The first requisite for cooking purposes is heat; this necessitates the use of fuel. The fuels chiefly used for household purposes are wood, coal, kerosene oil and gas. Soft woods, such as pine or birch, are best for kindling and for a quick fire. Hard woods, oak, ash, etc., burn more slowly, retain the heat longer, and are better adapted for cooking purposes.

COAL.

Coal (anthracite) is about 95 per cent. carbon. It kindles slowly, gives a steady heat, and burns for a longer time without attention than wood. Stoves for burning oil and gas have become popular, and are very convenient and satisfactory for cooking purposes.

OIL.

Oil is considered to be the cheapest fuel.

GAS.

Gas is a very satisfactory fuel for cooking purposes, but can only be used in certain localities.

Making and Care of a Fire.

CARE OF A FIRE.

Great care should be exercised in the selection of a stove or range. The plainer the range the easier it will be to keep it clean. There should be plenty of dampers that can be used to hasten the fire or to check it. Learn thoroughly the management of the range before beginning to cook. In lighting a fire, remove the covers, brush the soot from the top of the oven into the fire-box; clean out the grate (saving all the unburned coal, and cinders). Put in shavings or paper, then kindling arranged crosswise, allowing plenty of air space between the pieces, a little hard wood and a single layer of coal. Put on the covers, open the direct draft and oven damper, then light the paper. When the wood is thoroughly kindled and the first layer of coal heated, fill the fire-box with coal even with the top of the oven. When the blue flame becomes white, close the oven damper, and when the coal is burning freely, shut the direct draft. When coal becomes bright red all through it has lost most of its heat. A great deal of coal is wasted by filling the fire-box too full and leaving the drafts open till the coal is red. To keep a steady fire it is better to add a little coal often rather than to add a large quantity and allow it to burn out. Never allow dust or cinders to accumulate around a range, either inside or out. Learn to open and shut the oven door quietly and quickly. Study the amount of fire required to heat the oven to the desired temperature. Learn which is the hotter or cooler side of the oven, and move the article which is being baked as required, being very careful to move it gently.

Measurements.

Accurate measurement is necessary to insure success in cooking. As there is such a diversity of opinion as to what constitutes a heaping spoonful, all the measurements given in this book will be by level spoonfuls. A cupful is all the cup will hold without running over, and the cup is one holding 1/2 pint.

The following table may be used where scales are not convenient:--

4 cups of flour = 1 pound or 1 quart.
2 cups of solid butter = 1 "
1/2 cup butter = 1/4 "
2 cups granulated sugar = 1 "
2-1/2 cups powdered sugar = 1 "
3 cups meal = 1 "
1 pint of milk or water = 1 "
1 pint chopped meat, packed solidly = 1 "
9 large eggs, 10 medium eggs = 1 "
2 level tablespoonfuls butter = 1 ounce.
4 " " " = 2 ounces or 1/4 cup.
Butter the size of an egg = 2 " " "
2 level tablespoonfuls sugar = 1 "
4 " " flour = 1 "
4 " " coffee = 1 "
4 " " powdered sugar = 1 "

Table of Abbreviations.

Saltspoon ssp.
Tablespoon tbsp.
Pint pt.
Gallon gal.
Teaspoon tsp.
Cupful cf.
Quart qt.
Peck pk.

A speck (spk.) is what you can put on a quarter inch square surface.

Time-table for Cooking.

BAKING BREAD, CAKES AND PUDDINGS.

Loaf bread 40 to 60 m.
Graham gems 25 to 30 m.
Sponge cake 45 to 60 m.
Cookies 10 to 15 m.
Rice and tapioca 1 hr.
Custards 15 to 20 m.
Pastry (thin puff) 10 to 15 m.
Pie crust 25 to 30 m.
Baked beans 6 to 8 hrs.
Scalloped dishes 15 to 20 m.
Rolls, biscuit 10 to 20 m.
Gingerbread 25 to 30 m.
Fruit cake 2 to 3 hrs.
Bread pudding 1 hr.
Indian pudding 2 to 3 hrs.
Steamed pudding 1 to 3 hrs.
Pastry (thick) 30 to 50 m.
Potatoes 30 to 45 m.
Braised meat 3 to 4 hrs.

BAKING MEATS.

Beef, sirloin, rare, per lb. 8 to 10 m.
Beef, well done, per lb. 12 to 15 m.
Beef, rolled rib or rump, per lb. 12 to 15 m.
Beef, fillet, per lb. 20 to 30 m.
Mutton, rare, per lb. 10 m.
Mutton, well done, per lb. 15 m.
Lamb, well done, per lb. 15 m.
Veal, well done, per lb. 20 m.
Pork, well done, per lb. 30 m.
Turkey, 10 lbs. weight 2-1/2 hrs.
Chicken, 3 to 4 lbs. weight 1 to 1-1/2 hr.
Goose, 8 lbs. 2 hrs.
Tame duck 1 to 1-1/2 hr.
Game 40 to 60 m.
Grouse 30 to 40 m.
Small birds 20 to 25 m.
Venison, per lb. 15 m.
Fish, 6 to 8 lbs. 1 hr.
Fish, small 30 to 40 m.

VEGETABLES (BOILING).

Rice, green corn, peas, tomatoes, asparagus
(hard boiled eggs) 20 to 25 m.
Potatoes, macaroni, squash, celery, spinach 25 to 30 m.
Young beets, carrots, turnips, onions, parsnips,
cauliflower 30 to 45 m.
Young cabbage, string beans, shell beans, oyster plant 45 to 60 m.
Winter vegetables, oatmeal, hominy and wheat 1 to 2 hrs.

FRYING (DEEP).

Smelts, croquettes, fish balls 1 to 2 m.
Muffins, fritters, doughnuts 4 to 6 m.
Fish, breaded chops 5 to 7 m.

BROILING.

Steak, 1 inch thick 6 to 8 m.
Steak, 1-1/2 inch thick 8 to 10 m.
Fish, small 6 to 8 m.
Fish, thick 12 to 15 m.
Chops 8 to 10 m.
Chicken 20 m.

Table of Proportions.

1 qt. of liquid to 3 qts. of flour for bread.
1 qt. of liquid to 2 qts. of flour for muffins.
1 qt. of liquid to 1 qt. of flour for batters.
1 cup of yeast (1 yeast cake) to 1 qt. of liquid.
1 tsp. of soda (level), 3 of cream tartar to 1 qt. of flour.
1 tsp. of soda to 1 pt. of sour milk.
1 tsp. of soda to 1 cup of molasses.
4 tsps. of baking powder to 1 qt. of flour.
1 tsp. of salt to 1 qt. of soup stock.
1 ssp. of salt to 1 loaf of cake.
1 tbsp. of each vegetable, chopped, to 1 qt. of stock.
1-1/2 tbsp. of flour to 1 qt. of stock for thickening soup.
1 tbsp. of flour to 1 pt. of stock for sauces.
1 tsp. of salt to 1 pt. of stock for sauces.
4 tbsps. (level) cornstarch to 1 pt. of milk (to mould).
1 tsp. of salt to 2 qts. of flour for biscuits, etc.

Methods for Flour Mixtures.

STIRRING.

Stirring is simply blending two or more materials by moving the spoon round and round until smooth and of the proper consistency.

BEATING.

Beating is bringing the spoon up through the mixture with a quick movement so as to entangle as much air as possible.

CUTTING OR FOLDING.

Cutting or folding is adding the beaten white of egg to a mixture without breaking the air bubbles, by lifting and turning the mixture over and over as in folding. Do not stir or beat.

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RECIPES.

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BATTERS, BISCUITS AND BREAD.

POPOVERS.

2 cups of flour.
3 eggs.
2 cups of milk.
1/2 tsp. salt.

Beat the eggs (without separating) until very light, then add the milk and salt; pour this mixture on the flour (slowly), beating all the while. Beat until smooth and light, about five minutes. Grease gem pans or small cups, and bake in a moderately hot oven about thirty-five minutes. They should increase to four times their original size. (This recipe may be divided for class work.)

PANCAKES.

1 pint of flour.
1 tbsp. of melted butter.
1 pint of milk.
2 eggs.
2 tsps. baking powder.
1/2 tsp. salt.

Beat the whites and yolks of the eggs separately; add the yolks to the milk, then the melted butter; salt. Sift the baking powder and flour together, add slowly to the liquid, stir until smooth. Lastly, add the whites of the eggs. These may be cooked in waffle irons or on a griddle.

PANCAKES WITH BUTTERMILK.

1 pint of buttermilk.
Flour to make a medium batter.
1/2 tsp. salt.
1/2 tsp. soda.

Crush the soda, add it and the salt to the buttermilk, add the flour gradually, beat until the batter is smooth, and bake on a hot griddle. An egg may be added.

CORNMEAL GRIDDLE CAKES.

1 pint of Indian meal.
1 cup of flour.
1 tsp. salt.
3 eggs.
4 (l.) tsps. baking powder.
1 pint of milk.

Put the meal into a bowl, and pour over it just enough boiling water to scald it; do not make it soft; let stand until cool. Then add the milk; beat the eggs until very light, add them to the batter, add the flour and salt in which the baking powder has been sifted. Mix well, beat vigorously for a minute or two, and bake on a hot griddle.

BREAD GRIDDLE CAKES.

1 pt. of milk.
1/2 tsp. of salt.
1/2 tsp. of soda and 1 tsp. cream tartar.
3 (l.) tsps. baking powder.
1/2 pt. stale bread crumbs.
2 eggs.
Flour to make a thin batter.

Soak the bread in the milk for one hour, then beat it smooth. Beat the eggs separately till very light, add first the yolks, then the flour and salt and baking powder. Beat again, add the whites, and bake quickly on a hot griddle.

BUCKWHEAT CAKES.

1 pt. boiling water.
1/2 tsp. salt.
1/2 cup white flour.
1 ssp. soda.
1/2 cup corn or Graham meal.
1/4 yeast cake.
1 cup buckwheat flour.

Pour the boiling water on the corn or Graham meal, add the salt, and when lukewarm add the flour, beat until smooth, then add the yeast. Let it rise over night. In the morning add the soda just before baking (milk may be used instead of water). A tablespoonful of molasses is sometimes added in order to make the cakes a darker brown.

FRITTERS.

Beat two eggs together until light, add to them 1 cup of milk, 1/2 tsp. salt and sufficient flour to make a batter that will drop from the spoon. Beat until smooth. Have ready a deep pan of hot fat; add 3 (l.) tsps. of baking powder to the batter, mix thoroughly and drop by spoonfuls into the hot fat. When brown on one side turn and brown on the other; take out with a skimmer and serve very hot. Do not pierce with a fork as it allows the steam to escape and makes the fritter heavy.

GEMS--WHOLE WHEAT OR GRAHAM GEMS.

2 cups of whole wheat flour.
1/2 tsp. salt.
1 tbsp. sugar.
2 eggs, beaten separately.
1 cup milk.
1 cup water.

Mix flour, salt and sugar. Beat the eggs until light, add the milk and water, stir this into the dry mixture. Bake in hot gem pans for 30 minutes.

CORN MUFFINS.

1 cup cornmeal.
1 cup flour.
1-1/4 cups milk.
2 tbsps. butter.
2 tbsps. sugar.
1/2 tsp. salt.
2-1/2 tsps. baking powder.
1 egg.

Mix all the dry ingredients together. Melt the butter in a hot cup. Beat the egg till light. Add the milk to it and turn this mixture into the bowl containing the dry ingredients. Add the melted butter and beat vigorously and quickly. Pour into buttered muffin or gem pans, and bake for one-half hour in a moderate oven.

QUICK MUFFINS OR GEMS.

1 pt. of milk.
1 oz. butter.
3 cups of flour.
4 tsps. baking powder.
1 tsp. salt.
3 eggs.

Beat the eggs separately till light, add the yolks to the milk, then the flour, which must be more or less, according to the quality. The batter must be thin and pour from the spoon. Now add the melted butter and salt; give the whole a vigorous beating. Now add the baking powder and the well beaten whites, stir till thoroughly mixed. Bake in muffin rings in a quick oven or on the griddle.

TEA BISCUIT.

1 pt. of flour.
1 cup milk.
2-1/2 tsps. baking powder.
1/2 tsp. salt.
1 tbsp. lard or butter.
1/2 tsp. sugar.

Mix thoroughly in a sieve the flour, sugar, salt and baking powder, and rub through the sieve. Rub the butter or lard into this mixture. Now add the milk, stirring quickly with a strong spoon. Sprinkle the board with flour, turn out the dough upon it. Roll to the thickness of about 1/2 inch, cut with a small cutter. Bake in a quick oven. Do not crowd the biscuit in the pan. They should bake from 10 to 15 minutes. (All biscuit doughs should be mixed as soft as it is possible to handle. Sour milk may be used in this recipe by substituting soda for the baking powder.)

HOT CORN BREAD.

1 qt. of cornmeal.
1 tsp. of salt.
1 pt. sour milk or buttermilk.
1 oz. of butter.
2 eggs.
1 tsp. of soda.

Put the cornmeal in a large bowl and pour over it just enough boiling water to scald it through. Let it stand until cold, then add the eggs well beaten, the milk or buttermilk, salt, and butter (melted); beat thoroughly. Dissolve the soda in two tbsps. of boiling water, stir into the mixture, turn quickly into a greased square, shallow pan, put into a hot oven and bake 40 minutes.

SHORTCAKES.

(_Suitable for strawberries or any sweetened fruit._)

1 pint flour.
1 cup sweet or sour milk.
1/4 cup butter.
2-1/2 tsps. baking powder, or 1/2 tsp. soda and 1 tsp. cream tartar.
1/2 tsp. salt.

Mix the salt, soda, cream tartar or baking powder with the flour, sift; rub in the butter until fine like meal. Add the liquid gradually, mixing with a knife, and use just enough to make it of a light spongy consistency. Turn the dough out on a well floured board, pat lightly into a flat cake and roll gently till half inch thick. Bake either in a spider or pie plate in the oven; split, butter, and spread with the fruit.

DOUGHNUTS.

1 egg
1 tbsp. melted butter.
1/2 tsp. salt.
1 tsp. cream tartar.
Flour enough to make into a soft dough.
1/2 cup sugar.
1 cup milk.
1/2 tsp. soda.
1 ssp. cinnamon.

Mix all the dry ingredients, beat the egg until light, add to this the milk, sugar and melted butter. Pour into the flour, mixing carefully into a soft dough. Have the board well floured. Roll only a large spoonful at a time. Cut into the desired shape and drop into hot fat. The fat should be hot enough for the dough to rise to the top instantly.

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BREAD.

As bread is one of the most important articles of the daily diet, it naturally follows that special attention should be given to a subject upon which the health of the family, to a great extent, depends. A knowledge of the chemical changes and their effect (see Chap. VII) must be understood before proficiency in bread-making can be attained. The first element to consider is the _yeast_, and the generating of carbonic acid gas, so as to have the bread light, tender, and porous.

Yeast is a plant or vegetable growth produced from grain which has commenced to bud or sprout, and which forms the substance called diastase. This substance has the power to convert starch into sugar. (See Chap. VII for effect of yeast upon flour.)

The temperature at which fermentation takes place, and when to check it, are important features of bread-making.

The liquid (milk or water) should be tepid when mixed, as too great heat destroys the growth of the yeast. The dough should rise in a temperature of 75°. After fermentation has become active the temperature may be gradually lowered--as in setting bread over night--without injury.

Avoid a cold draft or sudden change of temperature, as it checks fermentation and affects the flavor.

Never allow bread to rise until it "settles," or runs over the side of the bowl. The usual rule is to let it rise until it is double in bulk, both in the bowl and after it is put into the pans. If it is not convenient to bake the bread when ready, it may be kneaded again and kept in a cool place, to prevent souring. Bread should be mixed in a stone or granite bowl.

The only necessary ingredients for bread are water, flour, salt, and yeast. Sugar may be added to restore the natural sweetness of the flour which has been lost during fermentation, but it is not necessary. If milk is used, and the bread well kneaded, no other shortening is required; but with water, the addition of a little butter or dripping makes the bread more tender, therefore it is more easily penetrated by the digestive fluids. Tough, leathery bread is not easily digested, no matter how light it may be. As already stated, by the action of heat the ferment is killed, the starch-grains ruptured, the gas carried off, and the crust formed. In order that bread may be thoroughly cooked, and plenty of crust formed, each loaf should be baked in a pan about 4 inches deep, 4 to 6 inches wide, and from 8 to 12 inches long. Smaller loaves are even more desirable. It is very difficult to bake a large loaf so as to insure the escape of all the carbonic acid gas, and to cook the starch sufficiently without injuring the crust, besides entailing an unnecessary waste of fuel. The custom of baking several loaves together in one large pan is contrary to all scientific rules of bread-making. The oven should be hot enough to brown a spoonful of flour in five minutes, for bread. The dough should rise during the first fifteen minutes, then begin to brown; keep the heat steady for the next fifteen or twenty minutes, then decrease it. If the oven is too hot a hard crust will form and prevent the dough from rising, which will not only cause the bread to be heavy, but will prevent the gas from escaping. If, on the other hand, the oven is not hot enough, the bread will go on rising until it becomes sour. A loaf, the size already mentioned, should take from fifty-five to sixty minutes to bake, and should give a hollow sound, if tapped, when removed from the oven. Better take too long than not long enough, as doughy bread is most objectionable and unwholesome. If the crust is beginning to burn, cover the loaf with brown paper, and reduce the heat, but have a brown crust, not a whity-brown, which is usually hard and without flavor. Upon removing the loaves from the pans, place them on a rack, where the air may circulate freely. Never leave warm bread on a pine table, or where it will absorb odors.

BREAD MADE WITH WATER.

2 quarts flour.
1 tbsp. sugar.
1 pint lukewarm water.
1 tsp. salt.
1 tbsp. butter, dripping or lard.
1/2 cake compressed yeast, dissolved in 1/2 cup water.

(This recipe is for Manitoba flour. A little more fine flour would be necessary.)

Sift the flour. Put the salt, sugar and butter into a large bowl, pour on the warm water, stir until they are dissolved. Add the flour gradually until it forms a thin batter, then add the yeast; beat vigorously for at least five minutes. Add more flour until the dough is stiff enough to knead. Turn out on the board and knead for half hour. Cover and let rise until double its bulk. Form into separate loaves, put into the pans, cover, and let rise again till double its bulk. Bake in a hot oven about an hour. (Milk or half milk may be substituted in this recipe.)

BREAD (WITH A SPONGE).

1 tbsp. butter.
1 tbsp. sugar.
1/2 cup yeast or 1/2 yeast cake.
1 tsp. salt.
1 pt. water.
About 2 qts. flour.

Put the butter, sugar and salt in the mixing bowl, add 1/4 cup boiling water to dissolve them; then add enough lukewarm water to make a pint, 3 cups of flour, then the yeast (if the cake is used dissolve in 1/4 cup tepid water). Give it a vigorous beating, cover, and let it rise over night. In the morning add flour to make it stiff enough to knead. Knead for 1/2 hour. Cover closely, let it rise till it doubles its bulk; shape into loaves; let it rise again in the pans; bake as directed in previous recipe.

WHOLE WHEAT OR GRAHAM BREAD.

1 pt. milk, scalded and cooled.
1 tsp. salt.
2 cups white flour.
2 tbsps. sugar.
5 or 6 cups whole wheat flour.
1/2 yeast cake or 1/2 cup yeast.

Mix in the same order as given in previous recipes. Whole wheat flour makes a softer dough, consequently does not require so much kneading, otherwise it should be treated the same as other bread, allowing it a little longer time for baking; if too moist, a cupful of white flour may be added.

YEAST.

Steep 1/2 cup of loose hops in 1 quart of boiling water, in a granite kettle, 5 minutes. Mix 1 cup of flour, 1/4 of a cup sugar and 1 tbsp. salt. Strain the hop liquor and pour it boiling into the flour mixture. Boil 1 minute, or till thick. When cooled add 1 cup of yeast. Cover and set in a warm place until foamy, which will be in 4 or 5 hours. Pour into stone jars, which should be not more than half full, and keep in a cool place. (Three boiled potatoes may be mashed smoothly and added to this yeast if desired.)

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SAUCES AND MILK SOUPS.

WHITE SAUCE.

(_For Vegetables, Eggs, etc._)

1 pt. milk.
4 (l.) tbsps. flour.
1/2 ssp. white pepper.
2 tbsps. butter.
1/2 tsp. salt.

Heat the milk over hot water. Put the butter in a granite saucepan and stir till it melts, being careful not to brown. Add the dry flour, and stir quickly till well mixed. Add the milk gradually, stirring carefully (especially from the sides) until perfectly smooth. Let it boil until it thickens, then add salt and pepper.

In using this sauce for creamed oysters, add 1/2 tsp. of celery salt, a few grains of cayenne pepper, and a tsp. of lemon juice.

DRAWN BUTTER SAUCE.

1 pt. hot water or stock.
1/2 cup butter.
1/2 ssp. pepper.
4 (l.) tbsps. flour.
1/2 tsp. salt.

Put the butter in the saucepan; when melted add the dry flour, and mix well. Add the hot water or stock a little at a time, and stir rapidly till it thickens; when smooth add the salt and pepper. Be careful to have all sauces free from lumps. (Hard boiled eggs may be added to this sauce for baked or boiled fish. Two tbsps. of chopped parsley may be added if parsley sauce is desired.)

BROWN SAUCE.

1 pt. hot stock.
2 tbsps. butter.
1/2 tsp. salt.
1 tbsp. lemon juice.
2 tbsps. minced onions.
4 tbsps. flour.
1/2 ssp. pepper.
Caramel enough to color.

Mince the onion and fry it in the butter 5 minutes. Be careful not to burn it. When the butter is browned add the dry flour, and stir well. Add the hot stock a little at a time; stir rapidly until it thickens and is perfectly smooth. Add the salt and pepper. Simmer 5 minutes, and strain to remove the onion.

CARAMEL FOR COLORING SOUPS AND SAUCES.

Melt 1 cup of sugar with 1 tbsp. of water in a frying-pan. Stir until it becomes of a dark brown color. Add 1 cup of boiling water, simmer 10 minutes, and bottle when cool. This coloring is useful for many purposes, and is more wholesome than browned butter.

MOCK BISQUE SOUP.

1 pt. stewed tomatoes.
2 tbsps. flour.
1/2 tsp. soda.
1 tsp. salt.
1 pt. milk.
2 tbsps. butter.
1/4 tsp. pepper.

Reserve 1/2 cup of the milk, put the remainder on to cook in a stew-pan. Mix the flour with the cold milk, and stir into the boiling milk. Cook for 10 minutes, then add the salt, pepper and butter. Stir the soda into the hot tomatoes and stir 1/2 minute, then rub through a strainer. Add the strained tomatoes to the thickened milk, and serve at once.

POTATO SOUP.

4 potatoes, medium size.
2 tbsps. minced celery.
2 tbsps. of flour.
1/4 tsp. of pepper.
1/2 tsp. minced parsley.
1-1/2 pints of milk.
4 tbsps. minced onions.
1 tsp. of salt.
1 tbsp. of butter.

Pare the potatoes, place on the fire in enough boiling water to cover, and cook for 30 minutes. Reserve 1/2 cup milk, put the remainder in the double boiler with the onion and celery and place on the fire. Mix the cold milk with the flour and stir into the boiling milk. When the potatoes are cooked pour off the water, mash them until fine and light. Gradually beat into them the milk; now add salt, pepper and butter, and rub the soup through a sieve. Return to the fire and add the minced parsley; simmer for 5 minutes and serve immediately. (The parsley may be omitted and celery salt substituted for the minced celery.)

CELERY SOUP.

1 head celery.
1 pint milk.
1 tbsp. butter.
1/2 tsp. salt.
1 pint water.
1 tbsp. chopped onion.
2 tbsps. flour.
1/2 ssp. pepper.

Wash and scrape the celery, cut into 1/2 inch pieces, put it into the pint of boiling salted water and cook until very soft. Mash in the water in which it was boiled. Cook the onion with the milk in a double boiler 10 minutes and add it to the celery. Rub all through a strainer and put on to boil again. Melt the butter in a saucepan, stir in the flour and cook until smooth, but not brown, then stir it into the boiling soup. Add the salt and pepper; simmer 5 minutes and strain into the tureen. Serve very hot.

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EGGS.

While eggs are nutritious and valuable as food they should not be used too freely, as they are a highly concentrated form of food. The albumen (white) of egg is one of the most valuable tissue builders. Much depends upon the manner in which they are cooked. Eggs fried in fat or hard boiled are very indigestible. Do not use an egg until it has been laid some hours, as the white does not become thick till then and cannot be beaten stiff. Eggs should be kept in a cool dark place, and handled carefully in order to avoid mixing the white and yolk, which causes the egg to spoil quickly.

BOILED EGGS.

Have the water boiling in a saucepan. Put in the eggs and move to the back of the stove where the water will keep hot, about 175 or 180 F., for from 8 to 10 minutes. If the back of the stove is too hot, move to the hearth. The white should be of a soft, jelly-like consistency, the yolks soft but not liquid. An egg to be cooked soft should never be cooked in boiling water.

HARD BOILED EGGS.

Cook eggs for 20 minutes in water just below the boiling point. The yolk of an egg cooked 10 minutes is tough and indigestible; 20 minutes will make it dry and mealy, when it is more easily penetrated by the gastric fluid.

POACHED EGGS.

Have a clean, shallow pan nearly full of salted and boiling water. Remove the scum and let the water just simmer. Break each egg carefully into a saucer and slip it gently into the water. Dip the water over it with the end of the spoon, and when a film has formed over the yolk and the white is like a soft jelly, take up with a skimmer and place on a piece of neatly trimmed toast. This is the most wholesome way of cooking eggs for serving with ham or bacon.

OMELET.

Beat the yolks of two eggs, add two tbsps. of milk, 1 ssp. of salt and 1/4 of a ssp. of pepper. Beat the whites till stiff and dry. Cut and fold them into the yolks till just covered. Have a clean, smooth omelet pan (or spider). When hot, rub well with a teaspoonful of butter; see that the butter is all over the pan, turn in the omelet and spread evenly on the pan. Cook until slightly browned underneath, being careful not to let it burn; set in a hot oven until dry on top. When dry throughout, run a knife round the edge, tip the pan to one side, fold the omelet and turn out on a hot platter. This may be made by beating the whites and yolks together for a plain omelet. A little chopped parsley, a little fine grated onion, a tbsp. or two of chopped ham, veal or chicken may be spread on the omelet before folding.

CUP CUSTARDS.

1 pt. of milk.
1/4 cup of sugar.
2 eggs.
1/2 ssp. grated nutmeg.

Beat the eggs until light, then add the sugar; beat again, add the milk and nutmeg, stir until the sugar is dissolved. Pour into custard cups, stand the cups in a pan of boiling water and then put the pan in the oven. Bake until the custards are set, or until a knife may be slipped into the centre without anything adhering to it. When done, take them out of the water and stand away to cool. (This custard may be poured into a baking dish and baked in a quick oven until firm in the centre.)

BOILED CUSTARD.

1 pt. of milk.
2 tbsps. sugar.
2 eggs.
1/2 tsp. vanilla.

Put the milk on in the double boiler, beat the sugar and yolks of eggs together until light, then stir them into the boiling milk; stir until it begins to thicken, then take it from the fire; add the vanilla and stand aside to cool. When cool, pour into a glass dish. Beat the whites until stiff, add three tbsps. of powdered sugar gradually. Heap them on a dinner plate and stand in the oven a moment until slightly brown, then loosen from the plate, slip off gently on top of the custard; serve very cold.

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FRUIT.

If people would only realize the value of fruit in its natural state, much of the time devoted to the preparation of pies, puddings, etc., would be saved. All uncooked fruit should be thoroughly ripe and served fresh and cold. Sometimes fruit is more easily digested when the woody fibre has been softened by cooking than when in its natural state, therefore a few simple recipes for cooking fruit are given.

APPLESAUCE.

Pare, core and quarter 6 or 8 tart apples. Make a syrup with 1/2 cup of sugar, 1/2 cup of water, and a little grated lemon peel. When boiling, add the apples and cook carefully till they are just tender, but not broken. Remove them carefully, boil the syrup down a little and pour it over the apples. (For serving with roast goose, etc., cook the apples in a little water, mash until smooth, add sugar to taste.)

CODDLED APPLES.

Pare tart apples of uniform size; remove the cores without breaking the apples. Stand them in the bottom of a granite kettle, sprinkle thickly with sugar, cover the bottom of the kettle with boiling water, cover closely and allow the apples to steam on the back part of the stove till tender. Lift carefully without breaking, pour the syrup over them and stand away to cool (delicious served with whipped cream).

STEWED PRUNES.

Wash carefully and soak in water an hour before cooking, put them into a porcelain or granite kettle, cover with boiling water and let them simmer until tender. Add a tbsp. of sugar for each pint of prunes, and boil a few moments longer.

CRANBERRIES.

Put 1 pint of cranberries in a granite saucepan, 1 cup of sugar, 1 cup of water. After they begin to boil cook 10 minutes, closely covered. (This may be pressed through a sieve while hot, removing the skins, if desired for a mould.)

STEWED RHUBARB.

Wash the rhubarb (if young and tender it will not be necessary to remove the skin), cut into pieces about 1 inch long. To every lb. of rhubarb allow 1 lb. of sugar. Put the rhubarb into a porcelain or granite kettle, cover with the sugar, and stand on the back part of the fire until the sugar melts. Move forward, let simmer for a few minutes without stirring, turn it out carefully to cool.

BAKED PEARS.

Take large, sweet pears, wipe them but do not remove the stems. Stand them in an earthen baking dish, pour around them a cup of boiling water, add 2 tbsps. sugar, cover with another dish and bake slowly until the pears are tender, basting occasionally with the liquor. When done, stand away to cool in the dish in which they were baked. When cold put them into a glass dish, pour the liquor over them and serve.

BAKED APPLES.

Pare and core, without breaking, tart apples. Put them into a shallow earthen dish, fill the cavities with sugar, add water to cover the bottom of the dish. Bake in a quick oven till soft, basting often with the syrup. (Quinces may be baked in the same way.)

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VEGETABLES.

Vegetables should be used very freely, as they contain saline substances which counteract the effect of too much meat, and are the chief source of mineral supply for the body. In cooking vegetables, a common rule is to add salt, while cooking, to all classes growing above ground (including onions), and to omit salt in the cooking of vegetables growing underground. In cooking vegetables care must be taken to preserve the flavor, and to prevent the waste of mineral matter.

CABBAGE.

Cut a small head of cabbage in quarters, soak in cold water 1 hour, drain and shake dry. Remove the stalk, or hard part, and chop the remainder rather fine. Put it into a stew-pan with enough boiling water to cover, and boil 20 minutes. Drain in a colander. Turn into a hot dish, and pour over it cream sauce or a little melted butter, pepper and salt.

CAULIFLOWER.

Pick off the outside leaves, soak in cold salted water, top downwards, for 1 hour. Tie it round with a piece of twine to prevent breaking. Cook in boiling salted water until tender, remove the string, turn into a hot dish with the top up, cover with cream sauce or drawn butter sauce. (When cold, it may be picked to pieces and served in a salad.)

CELERY.

Scrape clean and cut the stalks into 2-inch pieces: cook in salted water until tender, drain and cover with a white sauce. The sauce should be made with the water in which the celery has been stewed.

BOILED BEETS.

Wash, but do not cut them, as that injures the color. Cook in boiling water until tender. When cooked put them into a pan of cold water and rub off the skins. They may be cut in slices and served hot with pepper, butter and salt, or sliced, covered with vinegar, and served cold. They may be cut into dice and served as a salad, either alone or mixed with potatoes and other vegetables.

BEANS (DRIED).

Lima beans should be soaked in warm water over night. In the morning drain off this water and cover with fresh warm water. Two hours before needed drain, cover with boiling water and boil 30 minutes; drain again, cover with fresh boiling water, and boil until tender. Add a teaspoonful of salt while they are boiling. When cooked drain them, add a little butter, pepper and salt, or a cream sauce.

ASPARAGUS.

Wash the asparagus well in cold water, reject the tough parts, tie in a bunch or cut into pieces 1 inch long. Put it in a kettle, cover with boiling water, and boil until tender. Put it in a colander to drain. Serve with melted butter, pepper and salt, or with a cream or drawn butter sauce.

ONIONS.

Scald in boiling water, then remove the skins. Put them in boiling salted water; when they have boiled 10 minutes, change the water. Boil until tender but not until broken. Drain and serve with either cream sauce or butter, pepper and salt.

POTATOES.

Wash and scrub with a brush. If old, soak in cold water after paring. Put them in boiling water, when about half cooked add a tbsp. of salt. Cook until soft but not broken. Drain carefully. Expose the potatoes for a minute to a current of air, then cover and place on the back of the stove to keep hot, allowing the steam to escape.

RICE POTATOES.

Press the cooked potatoes through a coarse strainer into the dish in which they are to be served.

MASHED POTATOES.

To 1 pint of hot boiled potatoes, add 1 tbsp. butter, 1/2 tsp. of salt, 1/2 ssp. of white pepper and hot milk or cream to moisten. Mash in the kettle in which they were boiled, beat with a fork until they are light and creamy. Turn lightly into a dish.

POTATO PUFFS.

Prepare as for mashed potatoes, adding a little chopped parsley or celery salt if the flavor is liked. Beat 2 eggs, yolks and whites separately. Stir the beaten whites in carefully, shape into smooth balls or cones, brush lightly with the beaten yolks, and bake in a moderately hot oven until brown.

CREAMED POTATOES.

Cut cold boiled potatoes into thin slices. Put them in a shallow pan, cover with milk and cook until the potatoes have absorbed nearly all the milk. To 1 pint of potatoes, add 1 tbsp. of butter, 1/2 tsp. of salt, 1/2 ssp. of pepper and a little chopped parsley or onion.

BAKED POTATOES.

Select smooth potatoes of uniform size, wash and scrub well. Bake in a hot oven about 45 minutes or until soft. Break the skin or puncture with a fork to let the steam escape and serve at once. This is the most wholesome method of cooking potatoes, as the mineral matter is retained.

FRIED POTATOES.

Pare, wash and cut into slices or quarters. Soak in cold salted water, drain and dry between towels. Have sufficient fat in a kettle to more than cover the potatoes. When it is very hot drop the potatoes in, a few at a time, so as not to reduce the heat of the fat too quickly. When brown, which should be in about 4 or 5 minutes for quarters and about 2 minutes if sliced, drain and sprinkle with salt.

TOMATOES (RAW).

Scald and peel sometime before using, place on ice, and serve with salt, sugar and vinegar, or with a salad dressing.

SCALLOPED TOMATOES.

Scald and peel as many tomatoes as required. Butter a deep dish and sprinkle with fine bread or cracker crumbs, then a layer of sliced tomato, over this sprinkle a little salt, pepper and sugar; then add a layer of bread crumbs, another of tomatoes, sprinkle again with salt, pepper and sugar: put bread crumbs on the top, moisten with a little melted butter, and bake until brown.

STEWED TOMATOES.

Pour boiling water over the tomatoes, remove the skins and the hard green stem, cut into quarters or slices and stew in a granite kettle until the pulp is soft, add salt, pepper, butter and a little sugar if desired. If too thin the tomato may be thickened with crumbs or cornstarch wet in a little cold water.

SPINACH.

Pick over carefully, discarding all decayed leaves. Wash thoroughly, then place in a pan of cold water, let stand for a few minutes. Drain and put in a large kettle with just enough water to keep it from burning. Cook very slowly until tender. Drain and chop fine, add 1 tbsp. of butter, a tsp. of salt, a ssp. of pepper. It may be served on toast (hot) or garnished with hard boiled eggs.

CARROTS AND TURNIPS.

Carrots as a vegetable for the table are more palatable when young and tender. They should be washed and scraped, boiled until tender, and served with butter, pepper and salt or a white sauce. Turnips contain little nutriment; having no starch, they are very suitable for eating with potatoes. They require more salt than any other vegetable, and should be served with fat meat, corned beef, roast pork or mutton. Turnips should be washed, pared, cut into slices or strips, boiled until tender. Drain, mash and season with pepper and salt.

PEAS (GREEN).

Wash the pods, which should be green, crisp and plump, before shelling, then the peas will not require washing. Put the peas into a strainer or colander and shake out all the fine particles. Boil until tender. When nearly done add the salt. Use little water in cooking, when they may be served without draining; season with a little butter, pepper and salt. If drained, serve either dry with butter, pepper and salt, or with a white sauce.

GREEN SWEET CORN.

Remove the husk and silky fibre, cover with boiling water (the flavor is improved by adding a few of the clean inner husks) and cook, if young and tender, from 10 to 15 minutes. Try a kernel and take up the corn as soon as the milk has thickened and the raw taste is destroyed.

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SALADS.

FRENCH DRESSING.

3 tbsps. of olive oil.
1/4 tsp. of salt.
1 tbsp. vinegar.
1/2 ssp. of pepper or speck of cayenne.

Mix these ingredients together and serve. This makes a particularly good dressing for lettuce or vegetable salads.

SALAD DRESSING.

1/2 cup vinegar.
1 tbsp. sugar.
1/2 tsp. salt.
1/2 cup cream.
2 eggs.
1/2 tsp. mustard.
A speck of cayenne pepper.

Beat the eggs well, mix the sugar, salt, mustard and pepper together, add to the beaten eggs, then add the vinegar. Place the saucepan on the range in a pan of boiling water. Stir constantly until the dressing becomes thick and light. Take from the fire and turn into a cold bowl at once to prevent curdling. Beat the cream to a thick froth and stir it into the cold dressing. (When cream is not available use the same quantity of milk, previously thickened to the consistency of cream with a little cornstarch, add a tsp. of butter; when cold, add to the dressing.)

MAYONNAISE DRESSING.

1/2 pt. of olive oil.
1 tsp. mustard.
1/2 tsp. salt.
Yolks of 2 uncooked eggs.
1 tbsp. lemon juice.
1 tbsp. vinegar.
1/2 tsp. sugar.
A speck of cayenne.

Put the yolks of the eggs into a cold bowl, stir in the dry ingredients, beat well, using a silver or small wooden spoon. Then add the oil, drop by drop. When the mixture gets so thick that it is difficult to stir, add a few drops of the vinegar to thin it. Continue stirring in the oil and vinegar alternately until all are used, when it should be very thick; add the lemon juice last and beat for a few minutes longer; a cupful of whipped cream may be stirred into this dressing before using. (The following rules must be observed in order to insure success: (1) to beat the yolks and dry ingredients until thick; (2) to add the oil only in drops at first; (3) always beat or stir in one direction, reversing the motion is apt to curdle the dressing.)

LETTUCE SALAD.

Choose crisp, fresh lettuce, wash clean, let it remain for a little time in cold or ice water, drain thoroughly, break or tear the leaves into convenient pieces, dress with a French or cooked dressing; serve at once, cold.

POTATO SALAD.

1 pt. cold boiled potatoes.
1/2 tsp. salt.
1/2 cup cooked dressing. Or the French dressing, as given.
1 tsp. finely chopped onion.
1 sp. pepper.

Cut the potatoes into pieces about the size of dice, mix the seasonings with the potatoes, turn into a dish in alternate layers of potatoes and dressing, having a little dressing on top. Garnish with parsley, and allow to stand at least an hour in a cold place before serving, so that the potatoes may absorb the seasoning. (Cold boiled beets cut into cubes may be added in alternate layers with the potatoes in this recipe, using a little more dressing.)

TOMATO SALAD.

Peel the tomatoes (without scalding) and put them on ice until very cold, have crisp leaves of lettuce which have been washed and dried. When ready to serve, cut the tomatoes in halves, place one-half on a leaf of lettuce (the curly leaves being the best), on this put a tbsp. of mayonnaise or cooked dressing, and serve immediately.

CABBAGE SALAD.

Cabbage or celery may be used as a salad by cutting rather fine, allowing it to get cold and crisp, and serving with a cooked or French dressing. Indeed almost any vegetable may be used for a salad. String beans, asparagus, cauliflower, which have been cooked, are suitable for salad, either alone or in combination with nasturtium, cress, hard boiled eggs, etc.

CHICKEN SALAD.

One pint each of cold boiled or roasted chicken and celery. Cut the chicken into 1/4-inch dice, scrape, wash and cut the celery into dice, put the celery in a napkin and lay on the ice for 10 or 12 minutes; season the chicken with vinegar, salt, pepper and oil (or the French dressing-oil may be omitted if the flavor is not agreeable, substituting cream or melted butter). Add the celery to the seasoned chicken, add half the dressing (using either a cooked or mayonnaise), heap in a dish, add the remainder of the dressing, garnish with the tiny bleached celery leaves or small curly lettuce leaves. (A few capers and a hard boiled egg may be used as a garnish if desired.)

In summer the chicken may be served on a tender lettuce leaf, adding a spoonful of dressing, and serving very cold.

FRUIT SALAD.

4 oranges.
1 cup water.
1/4 package gelatine.
4 bananas.
Juice of 2 lemons.
1-1/2 cup sugar.

Dissolve the gelatine in the water, add the sugar and lemon juice, strain and pour over the oranges and bananas, which have been peeled and sliced and placed in alternate layers in a mould. Set away to cool. When needed, turn out and serve. Garnish with Malaga grapes, cherries, currants, or any suitable fruit.

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CEREALS.

All cereals require thorough cooking, because of the starch in them, also to soften the woody fibre. No matter what the cereal product may be, it should be cooked not less than three-quarters of an hour, and better if cooked longer.

OATMEAL PORRIDGE.

1 pt. of boiling water.
1/2 cup of oatmeal.
1/2 tsp. salt.

Be sure to have the water boiling. Sprinkle in the oatmeal slowly, stirring all the time. Add the salt, and move back or set in a vessel of boiling water where it will cook gently for 1 hour. Do not stir the porridge after the first 5 minutes.

All porridge (or mush) is made on the same principle.

CRACKED WHEAT

Should be cooked at least 4 or 5 hours.

CORNMEAL

Should be cooked an hour or more.

RICE.

Wash 1 cup of rice. Have 2 quarts of water, with 1 tbsp. salt, boiling rapidly. Sprinkle in the rice gradually, when you have it all in cover the kettle and boil 20 minutes. If too thick add a little boiling water. Test the grains, and the moment they are soft, and before the starch begins to cloud the water, pour into a colander to drain. Stand it in the oven a few minutes to dry, leaving the door open. Turn carefully into a heated dish and serve without a cover. (Do not stir the rice while cooking.)

RICE CROQUETTES.

1 pint of milk.
4 (l.) tbsps. of sugar.
1/2 cup raisins.
1/2 cup of rice.
1/2 tsp. vanilla.
Yolks of two eggs.

Wash the rice and put it into the boiling milk in a double boiler. Cook until very thick; add the yolks of the eggs and the sugar, beat thoroughly. Take from the fire, add the vanilla and the fruit, which has been well floured. Turn out on a dish to cool, when cold form in pyramids or cylinders; dip first in beaten egg, then in fine bread crumbs and fry in deep, boiling fat. Put a little jelly on the top of each croquette, dust the whole with powdered sugar, and serve with vanilla sauce or cream and sugar.

BAKED RICE.

Wash 1/2 cup of rice, turn into a buttered pudding dish, add 2 tbsps. sugar, grate 1/4 of a small nutmeg, add 1 qt. of milk, bake slowly for at least 1-1/2 hour.

FARINA.

1 pint of milk.
3 level tbsps. of farina.

Put the milk in the double boiler, when the milk boils add the salt, then sprinkle in the farina, stirring all the while; beat the mixture well and cook for 30 minutes. Serve with cream and sugar. (This may be made into a pudding by adding an egg, 2 tbsps. sugar, 1/2 tsp. vanilla, baking in the oven until brown.)

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MACARONI.

Macaroni is quite as valuable as bread for food, and should be used very freely.

BOILED MACARONI.

Break the macaroni in pieces about 2 inches long. Have boiling water, add a tsp. of salt; throw in the macaroni and boil rapidly 30 minutes, put it into a colander to drain, return to the kettle, rub a tbsp. of butter and flour together until smooth, add either milk or water until the sauce is as thick as rich cream. Cook it a few minutes before pouring over the macaroni, and serve (add salt to taste).

MACARONI WITH TOMATO SAUCE.

1/4 lb. macaroni.
1 tbsp. butter.
Salt and pepper to taste.
1 tbsp. flour.
1 cup stewed tomatoes.

Hold the long sticks of macaroni in the hand; put the end into boiling salted water, as it softens bend and coil in the water without breaking. Boil rapidly 20 minutes. When done put it in a colander to drain. Put the butter in a saucepan to melt, add to it the flour, mix until smooth, then add the tomatoes (which have been strained), stir carefully until it boils. Pour over the hot macaroni and serve at once.

MACARONI AND CHEESE.

1/4 lb. of macaroni.
1/4 lb. grated cheese.
Salt and white pepper to taste.
1/2 pt. milk.
1 tsp. butter.

Break the macaroni in pieces about 3 inches long. Put it into plenty of boiling water. Add 1 tsp. salt and boil rapidly 25 minutes; drain, throw into cold water to blanch for 10 minutes. Put the milk into the double boiler, add to it the butter, then the macaroni which has been drained, and cheese; stir until heated, add the salt and pepper, and serve. (The macaroni may be placed in a baking dish in alternate layers with the cheese, sprinkling each layer with pepper and salt, pouring the milk over the top, cutting the butter in small bits distributed over the top, and bake until brown in a moderately quick oven.)

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CHEESE.

CHEESE SOUFFLE.

1/4 lb. of cheese.
1 ssp. of soda.
A speck of cayenne.
2 tbsps. flour.
1/2 cup of milk.
1 tsp. mustard.
2 eggs.
2 tbsps. butter.

Put the butter in a saucepan, when melted stir in the flour, add the milk slowly, then the salt, mustard and cayenne, which have been mixed together. Add the yolks of the eggs which have been well beaten, then the grated cheese; stir all together, lift from the fire and set away to cool. When cold, add the stiff beaten whites, turn into a buttered dish and bake 25 or 30 minutes. Serve immediately.

WELSH RAREBIT.

1/4 lb. cheese.
1 tsp. mustard.
A speck of cayenne.
1 tsp. butter.
1/4 cup cream or milk.
1/2 tsp. salt.
1 egg.

Grate the cheese, put it with the milk in the double boiler. While this is heating, make some toast. Mix the mustard, salt and pepper, add the egg and beat well. When the cheese has melted, stir in the egg and butter, and cook about two minutes, or until it thickens a little, but do not let it curdle. Pour it over the hot toast and serve at once.