Chapter III: Part I: Miscellaneous (1)

Gelatine Copying Pad.

[HEKTOGRAPH.]

By this process a letter, postal card, drawing, or other manuscript can be duplicated from sixty to one hundred times from one original. Reproductions from the copying pad are now admitted in the mails as third-class matter, i. e., one cent for every two ounces or fraction thereof. A soft, gelatinous composition, similar to that used in making printers’ rollers, is made and poured into shallow pans of the required size. The pans should be made of stout zinc one-half inch deep on the inside, with a lid or cover. The length and breadth of the pans is determined by the class of copying to be done. Always make the pan slightly larger than the paper used. The three sizes given below will answer most purposes:

Postal card size 4×6 inches.
Note paper size 6-1/2×10 inches.
Full letter size 9×12 inches.

The composition is made as follows:

Good glue 4 ounces av.
Glycerine 16 ounces av.
Water 8 fluid ounces.

Break up the glue and soak in the water for a few hours, then heat by water-bath until melted. Next add the glycerine and heat together for some time to evaporate part of the water, and then strain into the pan, which should be placed perfectly level and filled about two-thirds full; skim with a card to free from bubbles, and set away to cool. An improvement consists in adding one ounce of carbonate of barium to the fluid while warm. The composition should be made somewhat softer for winter use than for summer, which can be done by adding a little larger proportion of glycerine. Another way to make the composition is to soak over night in cold water best gelatine or glue 1 part, and the excess of water poured off. The glue is then warmed in a water-bath with the addition of from 10 to 12 parts of glycerine, to which may be added 4 to 6 parts of finely ground heavy spar, and one part dextrine thoroughly mixed by constant stirring. (In summer less glycerine.)

The letter or sketch to be duplicated is written on a sheet of paper with ink specially prepared for the purpose (see inks). For the original it is best to use smooth, well-sized writing paper, allowing the ink to dry without using a blotter. After writing the original place it face downward on the pad, and rub it gently with the hand to insure contact at every point. Let it remain from two to six minutes, according to the number of copies you wish to print. In cold weather it should be left longer, as it requires more time for the composition to absorb the ink. Remove the original carefully, and a reversed impression will be observed on the pad. To take off copies lay dry sheets of paper on the reversed impression, press gently, and remove quickly.

When you have taken all the copies you require wash the ink from the surface _at once_ with a sponge and plenty of lukewarm water; never use hot water. The surface of the composition will allow considerable rubbing without fear of tearing it, if not done roughly and carelessly. Be sure your sponge is free from sand and grit, and also avoid scratching with the finger nails. Always wash the surface with a sponge before using, and dry with a newspaper. In cold weather if the composition feels chilled it will not absorb the ink properly, and the copies will be faint unless it be carefully warmed to a moderate temperature. Attention to these details will produce the most gratifying results.

Foliotypes.

Horace M. Engle, Esq., of Marietta, Pa., has devised a method of taking leaf-prints of marked beauty, which he terms “foliotypes,” some specimens of which he sent to Dr. Gray, the eminent botanist, who pronounced the process a new way, and advised him to send an account of it to the _Botanical Gazette_, which he generously did. We have employed the method according to the explanation there given (which we reprint in full) with the most delightful results, having secured prints of some beautiful leaves which are faithful to nature in color and outline, with all their delicate tracery: “The method is of actual usefulness to the botanist, as well as a refining recreation for others who love Nature ‘on general principles.’ For illustrating monographs and similar papers, where the number is too limited to warrant an expensive lithograph; for identifying a rare specimen, or as an adjunct to an herbarium, combining portability, unalterability, and beauty withal the method seems particularly fitted. But aside from this others may find a delightful and instructive recreation in taking prints of the entire flora of the old farm, the trees of a certain grove, the native annuals of a county, the ferns of a State, or any other special field that seems most inviting. Such copies may be taken in a blank book suited to the purpose, or, better, take them on single sheets of uniform size, as in this way imperfect copies may be thrown out, and when the work is completed they may be named, classified, and bound, making a volume of real value and worthy of just pride.

“The process consists in using the leaf for producing an impression as a printer uses type, the ink being green, and the pressure applied either by hand or with a press. There will be needed for the work (1) a small ink roller such as printers use for inking type by hand in taking proofs; (2) a stout window glass (10×12 is a good size) fastened securely (not glued, as it may warp and break,) to an evenly planed board about twice its surface, say 10×24. A small quantity of the ink is put on the glass and spread with a knife, after which it is distributed evenly by going over in all directions with the ink roller. When this has been carefully done the leaf to be copied is laid on a piece of waste paper and inked by applying the roller once or more with moderate pressure. This leaves a film of ink on the veins and network of the leaf, which should then be placed on a piece of blank paper and considerable pressure applied for a few moments. When the leaf is removed from the paper the work is done.

“To get the best results several points must be carefully noted. Get a quarter or half a pound of dark green ink, which is put up in collapsible tubes costing from fifty cents to $2 per pound, according to quality. As sold it is invariably too thick for this purpose, and should be thinned by adding several drops of balsam of copaiba to as much ink as may be taken on a salt spoon. Much depends on the proper consistency of the ink. In inking the leaf is liable to curl on the roller, but it should part readily from it. In case it sticks tightly the ink is too thick. Take care that the ink is evenly distributed on the glass and roller, as it is essential that each part of the leaf receives an equal coating of ink. If the leaf is large ink it part by part, keeping the roller well supplied. A roller three inches long, costing forty cents, will answer for all small leaves and branches of plants. Clean the roller and glass with benzine after using. If the leaf is finely veined the lower surface makes the better print, but if the veins are coarse and large the upper surface may be used. If the specimen is fleshy or brittle allow it to wilt until it becomes more pliable, or if necessary it may be pressed and dried first. In most cases the best copy is obtained after taking one or two impressions, as the leaf takes the ink better after several applications. A good quality of unsized paper that is made slightly damp by placing between sheets of moist newspaper is best for general work, but in other cases well sized paper will take a copy that will allow a foliotype (may I coin the word?) to bear inspection side by side with a good lithograph. I find a copying press very valuable in making the impression, especially if the leaf is at all coriaceous. If it be soft it should be covered with a few thicknesses of newspaper. If it is irregular in thickness, paper may be laid over the thin parts, so that equal pressure is received. This is necessary with all leaves that have thick stems. If the branch is very irregular or delicate, or in the absence of a press of any kind, the specimen may be covered with several layers of paper, and held in place by one hand while the pressure is applied by the thumb or palm of the other hand as required.

“These particulars are as complete as practicable. Experiments will lead to many improvements in details. Employ tact and neatness, and you will be surprised at the result.”

Fire-Extinguishers.

=Hand Grenades.=

Prof. F. S. Kedzie of the Michigan State Agricultural College, after a series of analyses and experiments, draws some important conclusions as to the value of hand-grenades, in a paper which he publishes in the Chicago Sanitary News. A Harden hand-grenade was opened, and the solution contained qualitatively analyzed. It consisted of common salt, sulphate of lime, and a small amount of acetate of soda. The principal ingredient was common salt.

The effort was made to determine (1) whether the solution in the grenades had any more extinguishing power than water; (2) if the solution had extinguishing power greater than water, what was the essential ingredient in the solution. The question that first arose regarding the composition of the grenades was: Did they contain carbon dioxide gas or any substance that would give up the gas by being heated? Opening the grenades under water and collecting the gas that escaped it was found that the average amount of carbon dioxide contained was about one cubic inch per grenade. Boiling the solution liberated a slight amount of gas in addition; but altogether the gas was not enough to be of any practical benefit in extinguishing fire. It was then certain that the extinguishing power was in the solution itself. Replacing the solution in the grenade with pure water the extinguishing power, while greater than water thrown from a dish upon flaming boards, was still much less than the power exerted by the solution.

By a careful series of trials it was found that the essential ingredient was common salt. From a number of experiments it was found that when a grenade, or a bottle containing a strong brine, was broken in the midst of the burning kerosene the flames were almost instantly extinguished. A vapor seemed to spread in all directions from where the salt solution struck the board, extinguishing the flame as it went. Strong solutions were also made of sulphate of soda, hyposulphite of soda, borax (biborate of soda), and bicarbonate of soda and tried as fire extinguishers. Some worked as well, but none any better, than common salt in extinguishing fire. The experiment was then made of charging the bottles with brine and generating carbon dioxide by adding lime dust and sulphuric acid and corking tightly. No practical increase in extinguishing power from this addition was noticed. In most instances the carbon dioxide gas escaped from the bottles inside of four days, proving that it is impracticable to attempt to use glass vessels with corks as a means of storing CO2 under pressure for fire extinguishing.

The conclusion reached from these and many more experiments was that the Harden grenade solution possesses _much greater_ extinguishing power than water alone, and that it owed this power to common salt held in solution. We then constructed some home-made grenades, using flat bottles bound together side by side with wire. Using two bottles in this way insures their being broken in striking the burning body, which would not always occur when only one bottle is used. Bottles thus charged with brine and bound together were broken side by side with the Harden grenades and found to be equally valuable.

It thus appears from the experiment that any person can construct as good and effective grenades as those offered in the market at $7 and $10 per dozen. Bottles filled with brine and placed around the premises will afford considerable protection, especially when used upon the flames when the fire just begins. Salt solutions have the further advantage of not being easily frozen--never enough to burst the bottles.

The Lewis hand fire-extinguisher was next investigated. This consists of a tin tube about two feet long containing thirty-four fluid ounces of soda in weak caustic ammonia. From the trials made we could not notice any appreciable superiority over the salt solution as used in the Harden grenade. It has the disadvantage of not being made to break by being thrown, but must be opened by having a cork extracted from one end of the tube, requiring a smart jerk. The solution is then sprinkled on the fire by the operator.

We herewith append a number of fire-extinguishing compounds, all of which are highly recommended by various authorities:

=Munich Fire-Extinguishing Powder.=

Common salt 43 per cent.
Alum 19.5 per cent.
Glauber’s salt 5.1 per cent.
Soda 3.5 per cent.
Water glass 6.6 per cent.
Water 22.3 per cent.

=Richardson’s Fire-Extinguishing Powder.=

Alum 4-1/2 pounds.
Common salt 10 pounds.
Glauber’s salt 1 pound.
Soda 1 pound.
Water glass 1-1/2 pounds.

=Vienna Fire-Extinguishing Powder.=

Green vitriol 4 parts.
Ammonium sulphate 16 parts.
Water 100 parts.

=Proteau’s Fire-Extinguishing Powder.=

Carbonate of soda 8 pounds.
Alum 4 pounds.
Borax 3 pounds.
Carbonate of potash 1 pound.
Silicate of soda solution 24 pounds.

Mix thoroughly and add 1-1/2 pounds of this mixture to each gallon of water, when required.

Transferring Photographs.

[ON GLASS.]

This beautiful and valuable process of transferring photographs in plain or colored work has been taught at high prices under various high-sounding names, such as “Roman art,” etc. Photographs can be transferred and preserved for years which would have been soiled, faded, and ruined if allowed to remain on the card.

Separate the paper print from the background or card by steaming it, after which dry thoroughly. Warm the glass slightly and coat evenly with balsam or negative varnish and place the print face downward on the surface thus prepared. After smoothing it carefully set away in a cool place until the varnish has hardened. Then apply water, and with a soft piece of gum rubber rub off the paper so as to leave the photographic image on the varnished glass.

Stamping Patterns.

Draw the pattern upon heavy paper and perforate with small holes all the lines with the point of some sharp instrument, dust the following powder through the perforations, remove the pattern and pass a warm iron over the fabric, when the pattern will become fixed. Any desired color can be used, such as Prussian blue, chrome green, yellow, vermilion, etc.:

Fine white rosin 2 ounces.
Gum sandarac 4 ounces.
Color 2 ounces.

Powder very fine, mix, and pass through a sieve.

Magic Paper.

[FOR TRANSFERRING AND COPYING.]

This paper is really a valuable article, and is manufactured and sold under various names, such as the “stylograph,” “rapid copying process,” etc. It is used principally by salesmen in keeping a record of their sales, as three copies can be taken simultaneously with one writing. In this way traveling salesmen can with one writing give a copy of his sale to his customer (which is frequently demanded), another he can send to his firm, and retain the third one for his own use. It is used in a similar manner in nearly all the large stores, and by many individuals in their business correspondence. It is also valuable for transferring figures in embroidery and taking impressions of leaves for herbariums, etc., which it does beautifully, but for the latter purpose nothing equals the foliotype method previously explained.

The paper is made by mixing pure lard or sweet oil to the consistence of cream with either of the following paints, the color of which is desired: Prussian blue, lamp black, Venetian red, or chrome green, either of which should be rubbed with a knife on a plate or flat surface until smooth. Use rather thin but firm paper; put on with a sponge and wipe off as dry as possible. Lay the sheets between uncolored paper or newspaper, and press by laying books or some other flat substance upon them until the surplus oil is absorbed, when it is ready for use.

FOR COPYING LETTERS AND ORDERS.--Either _two_ or _three_ copies can be made at one time, as desired. To make _two_ copies place a sheet of the magic paper between the two sheets selected for the order, bill, or letter, and write upon the upper sheet with a hard lead pencil (the harder the lead the cleaner the copy). It is best to place a piece of hard cardboard under all the sheets while writing.

To make _three_ copies use two sheets of magic paper, placing one between the first and second leaves and the other between the second and third leaves. Proceed as in taking two copies by writing upon the top leaf. A stout, thin linen paper will produce the best results, but almost any kind will do.

TO TRANSFER EMBROIDERY PATTERNS.--Place a piece of thin paper over the embroidery to prevent soiling; then lay on the magic paper and put on the cloth you wish to take the copy on to embroider; pin fast and rub over with a spoon-handle, and every part of the raised figure will show upon the plain cloth.

TO TAKE IMPRESSIONS OF LEAVES.--Place the leaf between two sheets of the magic paper and rub it over hard; then take the leaf out and place it between two sheets of white paper; rub again, and you will have a beautiful impression of both sides of the leaf or flower.

Cleaning Preparations.

=Lightning Grease Renovator.=

An excellent general preparation for removing grease, paint, etc.

Castile soap (cut fine) 4 ounces.
Hot water 1 quart.

Dissolve, after which add and mix thoroughly,

Aqua ammonia 4 ounces.
Sulphuric ether 1 ounce.
Glycerine 1 ounce.
Alcohol 1 ounce.
Water 1 quart.

An elegant general preparation for cleaning gloves, silks, etc., is made as follows:

Deodorized gasoline (or benzine) 1 pint.
Alcohol, chloroform, and ether, each 1/2 fluid ounce.

Mix, and perfume with cologne, lavender, or any desired odor. Do not use near a flame.

“GANTEIN” FOR CLEANSING GLOVES.--The preparation sold under this name is made as follows: Dissolve 6 parts of soap in 2 parts of water; add 4 parts of bleaching liquor and 1/4 part of aqua ammonia. Rub the gloves with the fluid until clean.

Cleaning Tarnished Silverware.

[IN USE BY ALL LEADING JEWELERS.]

Cyanide potassium 3 ounces.
Soft water 2 gallons.

Mix and dissolve. Label it “poison,” and place out of the reach of children. Have the article clean and free from grease; dip in solution till tarnish is off, but no longer (and under no circumstances leave it in too long). After immersion the article must be taken out and thoroughly rinsed in a number of waters (warm preferred), then dried with a soft rag or sawdust.

Another method, which is safe and cheap, consists in using a saturated solution of hyposulphite of soda to which a little bolted whiting has been added. Apply with a brush or cloth until the tarnish is removed.

Clark’s Wash for Carpets.

SOLUTION 1.--Dissolve 10 parts of soap in 20 of water, and add 3-1/2 parts of soda and one-half part of liquid ammonia and spirit of wine.

SOLUTION 2.--Is the _actual cleansing liquid_, and consists of 4 parts of liquid ammonia and 3 of alcohol diluted with water.

The last solution is first used, and when the dirt loosened by it has been removed the soap solution is applied. Carpets thus treated regain their original colors in all their freshness, the entire operation of washing and drying a large carpet requiring but two hours, and the carpet need not be taken up.

Universal Stain Table.

Showing at a glance what means to employ in removing any kind of stain from any kind of fabric. Red acid stains are destroyed by ammonia, followed by thorough washing with water. Burn stains of nitric acid are permanent. Great care must be observed when ether and benzine are used. Keep the open bottle and the fabric being cleaned away from an open fire or blaze. The ether especially is so volatile that an open bottle will take fire from a gas-jet or blaze several feet away if the draft is right. You cannot be too careful.

=UNIVERSAL STAIN-REMOVING TABLE.=

+--------------+--------------+-----------------------+---------------+ |KIND OF STAIN.|_From Linen._ | COLORED FABRICS. | _Silk._ | | | | _Cotton._ | _Wool._ | | +--------------+--------------+-----------+-----------+---------------+ |Sugar, | | |gelatine, | Washing simply in water. | |blood, | | |albumen. | | +--------------+--------------+-----------+-----------+---------------+ |Fat |Soap-water, |Tepid soap-|Soap-water,|Benzine, ether,| | |alkaline |water. |spirit |spirit of | | |lyes. | |sal- |sal-ammoniac, | | | | |ammoniac. |potash, | | | | | |magnesia, | | | | | |chalk, | | | | | |yolk of egg. | +--------------+--------------+-----------+-----------+---------------+ |Varnish | Oil of turpentine, |Benzine, ether,| |and | benzine, |soap; | |oil-paint. | and finally soap. |careful | | | |rubbing. | +--------------+--------------------------------------+---------------+ |Stearine. | Alcohol of 95 per cent. | +--------------+--------------+-----------------------+---------------+ |Vegetable |Sulphurous | Washing in warm |As above, | |colors, |vapors, warm | soap-water or |rubbing gently | |red wine, |chlorine | liquid ammonia. |and carefully. | |fruits, |water. | | | |red ink. | | | | +--------------+--------------+-----------------------+---------------+ |Alizarine ink.|Tartaric acid;| Diluted solution of | As above. | | |the older the | tartaric acid, | | | |stain the more| if the fabric permits.| | | |concentrated | | | | |the solution. | | | +--------------+--------------+-----------+-----------+---------------+ |Rust and |Warm oxalic |Repeated |The same as|Nothing can be | |gall-nut ink |acid solution,|washing |for cotton,|done; | | |diluted |with |but diluted|all attempts | | |hydrochloric |dissolved |hydrochlo- |only increase | | |acid, and |citric |ric acid if|the evil. | | |finally tin |acid, if |the wool is| | | |filings. |the fabric |naturally | | | | |is dyed |coloured. | | | | |well. | | | +--------------+--------------+-----------+-----------+---------------+ |Lime and |Washing simply|Pouring diluted nitric acid drop by | |alkaline |in water. |drop upon the stain. The previously | |lyes. | |moistened is rubbed off with the | | | |finger. | +--------------+--------------+---------------------------------------+ |Tannin, green |Eau de |More or less concentrated chlorine | |nut shells. |Javelle, warm |tint water, according to the nature | | |chlorine water|and of the fabric, and alternate | | |concentrated |washing with water. | | |solution of | | | |tartaric acid.| | +--------------+--------------+-----------------------+---------------+ |Coal-tar, |Soap, oil of |Rubbing with lard, |Same as for | |wagon-grease. |turpentine, |then soaping, and |colored | | |alternating |after a while washing |fabrics; use | | |with a jet of |alternately with |benzine instead| | |water. |oil of turpentine |of turp.; jet | | | |and water. |of water must | | | | |fall on back | | | | |of stain. | +--------------+--------------+-----------------------+---------------+

Liebig’s Washing Fluid.

SAVING HALF THE WASH-BOARD LABOR.

Sal soda 1 pound.
Stone lime 1/2 pound.
Water 5 quarts.

Boil a short time, stirring occasionally; then let it settle and pour off the clear liquid into a bottle or jug and cork for use. Soak your clothes over night in simple water; wring out and soap wrist-bands, collars, and dirty or stained places. Have your boiler filled with water, and when at scalding heat put in a teacupful of the fluid, then put in your clothes and boil for half an hour, after which rub lightly through one suds only, rinsing well in the bluing water, and all is complete.

For each additional boiler of clothes add half a cup of the fluid; of course boiling in the same water through the whole washing. If more water is needed in the boiler for the last clothes dip it from the sudsing tub. Soak your woolen and calico in the suds from which you have washed the white clothes, while hanging them out dipping in some of the boiling water from the boiler, if necessary; then wash out the woolen and calico as usual--of course washing out woolen goods before you do the calico. The fluid brightens instead of fading the colors.--_Dr. Chase._

PREMIUM WASHING FLUID.--This fluid is equal to the best that can be prepared, and as it is recommended to be used in a simpler manner than the foregoing many will doubtless prefer it:

Sal soda 4 pounds.
Borax 2 ounces.
Sal tartar 1 ounce.
Aqua ammonia 1/2 pint.
Spirit of camphor 2 ounces.
Oil of turpentine 1 ounce.
Hot water 6 pints.

Dissolve the sal soda, borax, and sal tartar in the hot water and add the other ingredients. Soak the clothes over night in water to which has been added a table-spoonful of the fluid for each gallon of water; also add a little in washing water.

How I Iron Shirts.

BY MRS. HUSBANDPLEASER.

Take two ounces of spermaceti, one ounce of white wax, one ounce of paraffine. Mix and put in a saucer over a tea-kettle in which water is boiling, until melted, stirring several times. Then let it get cold, after which put in a clean box for use.

To make the starch: For two shirts, collars, and cuffs take one table-spoonful of starch dissolved in water; shave a piece of the above into it the size of a bean. Pour boiling water into it until thick, cook twenty minutes and set away to cool. Take one table-spoonful of starch, dissolve it in cold water, and when the boiled starch gets lukewarm pour it over it, stir well, and strain. Have the garments dry and lay the starch on the wrong side and work it through. Be careful that the starch is rubbed in until the right side is wet all over. When well saturated roll up tight in a clean cloth. They need not lay but a few minutes. Stretch them on a bosom-board, and with a damp cloth rub out all the wrinkles. Lay a fine cloth over and iron it twice. If a collar or cuff turn it over and do the same on the other side. Take off the cloth and iron perfectly dry. If the bosom has pleats raise them before ironing dry and dry under them. After the bosom is perfectly dry (for this polishing process you need a good, smooth, hard board about two by one and a half feet--the harder the better--a marble slab of that size is better still), put the bosom on the bare board, dip a clean white cloth in water, wring almost dry, rub lightly over the bosom, then rub it with a dry cloth, and polish with back of iron or with polishing iron. If any dirt gets on rub off with a damp cloth and polish again. The polishing is not necessarily done the same day they are ironed. If your time is limited, or your work interrupted by callers or other duties, lay them aside after having ironed them perfectly dry.

Liquid Washing Bluing.

Soluble Prussian blue 1 ounce.
Oxalic acid 1/4 ounce.
Boiling water 1 quart.

This makes the very best quality of bluing at a slight cost.

Family Washing Soaps.

We see no reason why every economical housewife should not profit by these simple methods of preparing cheap laundry soap, as they are the results of practical experience.

=Best Soft Soap.=

Take 4 pounds of white bar soap, cut it fine, and dissolve by heating in 4 gallons of soft water, after which add 1 pound of sal soda. Dissolve and mix thoroughly. If it is desired the soap can be made thicker by adding less water.

=Hard Soap With Lard.=

Sal soda and lard, each 6 pounds.
Stone lime 3 pounds.
Soft water 4 gallons.

Dissolve the lime and soda in the water by boiling, stirring, and settling; pour off, then return to the kettle (brass or copper), add the lard and boil it until it becomes soap. Then pour into a dish or molds, and when cool cut it into bars and dry it.

=White Hard Soap With Tallow.=

Take 2 pounds each of fresh-slacked lime, sal soda, and tallow; dissolve the soda in 1 gallon of boiling soft water, stirring occasionally every few hours after which let it settle, pouring off the clear liquor and boiling the tallow therein until it is all dissolved; cool it in a flat box or pan, and cut into bars or cakes as desired. It may be perfumed with oil of sassafras or any other perfume desired, stirring it in when cool.

Cleaning Soiled Wall-paper.

The old form of this process was to use stale bread or bread baked to a proper consistency, but it seldom produces satisfactory results except in the hands of experts, and then it is an impossibility to keep from scratching the surface of the paper with the sharp points of the crust. A dough preparation known only to a few experts engaged in cleaning walls by contract, and who have been known to make from $5 to $25 per day, is now used, which is far superior in every way to anything yet discovered. The walls can be cleaned over and over again, each time appearing as bright as new paper.

Wheat flour Three parts.
Powdered prepared whiting One part.

Mix the flour and whiting thoroughly, and add enough water to bring it to the consistency of ordinary dough. Use by taking a small piece--about twice the size of a hen’s egg. Press against the wall and remove the dirt by making long strokes. After making a stroke knead the dirt into the dough, and continue doing so until it is useless. A quart of the preparation used in this manner will clean the walls of a good-sized room.

When it is desired to keep the ingredients of the composition a secret a coloring matter may be added to assist in mystifying. When the walls are discolored by grease or marks where people have rested their heads, mix pipeclay to the consistency of cream, lay it on the spot and allow it to remain until the following day, when it may be easily removed with a penknife or brush.

Polishing Preparations.

POLISHING POWDER.--For polishing silver and nickel-plated ware, brass, copper, etc.:

Fossil silica 2 ounces.
Rouge (or fine crocus martis) 1/2 ounce.
Prepared chalk 1/2 pound.

Rub the fossil silica to a fine powder and thoroughly mix with the chalk. This will not scratch the finest surface. Use by rubbing with a damp sponge or rag, and finish dry with chamois skin or dry rag.

=Polishing Pastes.=

Fossil silica 1 ounce.
Petrolatum 1/2 pound.
Cotton-seed oil (or sweet oil) 1 ounce.
Subcarbonate of iron 3 ounces.
Essential oil of almonds 30 minims.

Reduce the fossil silica to a very fine powder and mix it with the iron; melt the petrolatum, add the cotton-seed oil, stir in the powders, and while cooling add the flavoring oil and stir until ready to set, then run into boxes similar to ordinary blacking boxes. Apply with a soft rag dipped in the paste, and finish with a clean cloth. Prepared chalk or whiting can be used instead of fossil silica. The paste does its work faster than the polishing powder, and if the articles are very much corroded it is preferable.

Another excellent paste, which can be put in boxes or formed into balls and allowed to harden, is to take finely powdered rotten-stone, sift it thoroughly through muslin or a hair sieve, and knead with a sufficient quantity of soft soap to form a stiff paste. To 1/2 pound of this mass add 1-3/4 fluid ounces of oil of turpentine.

=Cleaning Powder for Show Windows, Mirrors, Etc.=

Moisten calcined magnesia with pure benzine. The mixture should be preserved in bottles with glass stoppers, as the benzine is very volatile. Use by placing a little of the mixture on a wad of cotton and apply to the glass.

Marble Cleaning.

Rub with muriatic acid diluted with water, care being taken that it is not too strong. Repeat the process till clean, then wash with clear water. When the marble is very dirty, as in the case of old tombstones, use the following:

Muriatic acid 2 ounces.
Acetic acid 1 ounce.
Verdigris 1 drachm.

Mix, apply with a brush, and sponge off with clear water. Repeat until clean, then polish with pumice stone continually moistened with water as you proceed.

Furniture Varnish.

White wax 5 ounces.
Potash 7-1/2 ounces.

Boil lightly for fifteen minutes, allow to cool, and then skim off the wax which floats on the surface. Apply the wax to the furniture, and by rubbing it an hour afterward with a woolen cloth a beautiful luster will be the result.

French Furniture Polish.

This is the best article that can be made for restoring the luster and color of furniture:

Butter of antimony 3 fluid ounces.
Linseed oil 12 fluid ounces.
Alcohol 6 fluid ounces.
Shellac 2 ounces av.
Oil of turpentine 10 fluid ounces.
Hydrochloric acid 1 ounce.

Dissolve the shellac in the alcohol and add the linseed oil and turpentine; then add the hydrochloric acid and butter of antimony, which has been previously mixed, and thoroughly mix all together. Apply with a tuft of cotton, and finish by rubbing down hard with Canton flannel or a woolen rag.

Maple Syrup and Sugar.

[ARTIFICIAL.]

It is an astonishing fact that nine-tenths of the so-called maple sugar and maple syrup sold as the genuine articles are nothing more than clever imitations. The method of making the best quality of these imitations--and which really defies detection of a majority of dealers and consumers--is very cheap and simple, a gallon of the syrup costing about fifty cents and the sugar simply the cost of ordinary, cheap sugar. We were told by a Mr. Baldwin of Kentucky, a son of the reputed discoverer of the secret for producing the maple flavoring, that various manufacturers of imitation maple sugar and syrup in the large cities had paid his father thousands of dollars in royalties for his discovery.

Procure a quantity of the rough outside bark of what is known as scaly-bark hickory tree. Take about 3 or 4 pounds of the bark and boil in one-half gallon of water until it is reduced to a quart, then strain and add 5 pounds of common brown or yellow sugar; heat again until thoroughly dissolved and it is ready for use. To make imitation maple syrup simply boil the syrup until it is reduced back to sugar again, and when it is made properly the flavor and appearance of the genuine article is obtained.

Artificial Honey.

Clarified sugar 10 pounds.
Pure honey (strained) 3 pounds.
Soft water 3 pints.
Cream tartar 1 drachm.
Essence peppermint 10 drops.

Dissolve the sugar in the water by the aid of gentle heat; take off the scum, and the honey and the cream tartar previously dissolved in a little water; bring to the boiling point, stir well, then let it cool.

Artificial Lemonade Syrup.

Loaf sugar 2 pounds.
Citric acid 2 ounces.
Concentrated essence of lemon 2 drachms.
Essence of almonds 20 drops.
Hot water 2 pints.

Dissolve the citric acid in hot water, add the sugar, and lastly the lemon and almonds. Stir well, cover with a cloth, and leave until cold. Two table-spoonfuls to a tumbler of cold water will make an excellent drink as refreshing as the best lemonade.

Best Artificial Cider.

Water 25 gallons.
Honey (or fine syrup) 1-1/4 gallons.
Catechu (pure) 6 drachms.
Alum 1-1/4 ounces.
Yeast 1/2 pint.

Ferment for fifteen days in a warm place, then add:

Bitter almonds 2 ounces.
Cloves 2 ounces.
Whisky 6 pints.
Burnt sugar, to color.

If acid should be in excess add honey or sugar; if too sweet add cider vinegar to suit the taste.

Genuine New Orleans Mead.

Sarsaparilla root (contused) 8 ounces.
Licorice 8 ounces.
Cassia bark (contused) 8 ounces.
Cloves 2 ounces.
Coriander seeds 3 ounces.
Ginger 8 ounces.

Boil for fifteen minutes in eight gallons of water and let stand till cold to settle down, then strain through a flannel rag, and add to it in the fountain:

Syrup 12 pints.
Honey 4 pints.
Tincture of ginger 4 ounces.
Solution of citric acid 4 ounces.

Add enough water to complete ten gallons, and charge with gas.--_Prof. E. S. Wayne, in Kilner’s Formulary._

Baking Powders.

Pure baking powders are very simple in composition, care being used in preparing them and procuring pure ingredients. According to the advertised statements of the various leading manufacturers we are forced to make our own if we desire a pure and wholesome article. As the essential ingredients of the best baking powder are baking soda and cream of tartar we need only be careful in buying of honest grocers or druggists who will guarantee their purity. It is not difficult to procure pure soda, but the cream of tartar is frequently adulterated, and care must be used in its purchase.

It is very important that the materials used must be finely powdered, perfectly dry, and thoroughly mixed. For household purposes a patent sifter is the best to use in mixing. Run the articles through a number of times and free from all lumps. The ingredients can be dried by placing them in an oven for a short time before mixing.

=Baking Powder No. 1.=

Pure cream of tartar 2 pounds.
Pure bicarbonate of soda 1 pound.
Corn starch 2 ounces.

This is the best that can be made. One to two tea-spoonfuls to a quart of flour.

=Baking Powder No. 2.=

A cheaper powder, but superior to the majority of powders you will buy, is prepared as follows:

Pure cream of tartar 2 pounds.
Pure bicarbonate of soda 2 pounds.
Tartaric acid 6 ounces.
Corn starch 1 pound.
Best flour 4 pounds.

Use two tea-spoonfuls to a quart of flour. Do not be afraid of the tartaric acid, as it is harmless. It is best to keep your baking powder in a well-stopped jar or bottle. Flour, terra alba, alum, and chalk are the chief ingredients used in the adulteration of cream of tartar. To determine the admixture of flour rub a few grains of iodine with one ounce of the suspected cream of tartar; if so adulterated a blue tint to the mixture will be produced; or by dissolving a small quantity in water you can prove its presence by the stickiness. Chalk may be determined by its effervescing on the addition of diluted acids; alum by dissolving in hot water and allowing the solution to chrystallize; terra alba and other clays by their insolubility in a hot solution of caustic potassa.

Flavoring Extracts.

The profits to manufacturers and dealers on these household necessities are very large, and the prudent consumer will take advantage of the directions here given. Extracts of lemon and vanilla are most frequently used; nutmeg, mace, cinnamon, etc., are usually used dry by grating.

=Best Lemon Extract.=

Best deodorized alcohol 1 pint.
Oil of lemon 1 ounce.

Cut the peels of two lemons into fine pieces and add to the alcohol and oil of lemon. Let stand for a few days and filter through a felt bag or filtering paper.

=Extract of Vanilla.=

Extract of vanilla is prepared direct from the vanilla bean. Use care in the purchase of the beans, as there are several varieties. The Mexican vanilla beans have the finest flavor, and the longer the bean, as a rule, the better the extract. There are other excellent varieties of vanilla beans, but they have a somewhat ranker flavor than the Mexican. Unscrupulous jobbers and dealers have been known to soak the whole beans in spirits, practically stealing all their flavor, and then by drying them place them on the market. They can be detected by their light color and brittleness. Most of the vanilla extracts sold for flavoring purposes are adulterated with Tonka beans and other adulterants, some containing not a particle of vanilla.

The following will make a splendid article, and you know what you are getting without paying high prices for weak extracts put up in deceptive little panel bottles. Dishonest manufacturers never yield a point in their efforts to defraud. Not content with the liberty they take with the contents they employ the bottle-makers’ art to deceive us in the quantity of the precious stuff:

Vanilla beans 1 ounce.
Sugar 1 ounce.
Cologne spirits (deodorized alcohol) 12 ounces.
Water 4 ounces.

Slit the beans and cut them very fine, then mix them with sugar and bruise until moderately fine; then mix with spirits and water and put in a warm place; allow to stand for two weeks (longer the better) shaking every day, and when through filter. Manufacturers color with caramel or other coloring, but for home use this is unnecessary.

=To Extract Essential Oils.=

To extract essential oils from wood, bark, herbs, etc., put a quantity of the herb or other article into a bottle or jar and pour in a small quantity of ether. Keep in a cool place several hours, and then fill the bottle with cold water. The essential oil will rise to the surface, and may be easily separated.

How to Make Rubber Stamps.

The wording of the desired rubber stamp having been correctly set up in ordinary type, the same is locked up and placed upon a level support. Around it is put an iron frame, which will determine the shape and size of the matrix.

By means of a soft brush the type as well as all surrounding parts that are to be covered by the plaster of Paris are well oiled.

For the purpose of making the cast finely ground fresh plaster of Paris is needed; if of long standing, the same will lose its desirable properties. This plaster of Paris, of which a sufficient quantity should at one time be mixed to the consistency of pap, using clear water, is poured over the frame containing the type in a thin layer, so as to barely cover it. With a stout brush the mixture is driven into all spaces and interstices, until all details are thoroughly covered. After this the remaining pap of plaster of Paris is added until the frame is full to overflowing. The surface is smoothed down after the plaster has settled somewhat, and in a short while the matrix in the frame may be removed from the type.

After this it becomes necessary to bake the matrix in an oven for a period of from four to six hours. When thoroughly baked the matrix should be well brushed with a thin solution of shellac to impart a smooth surface, and at the same time greater strength.

The matrix at this stage represents a yellowish-white block, in which the lettering appears indented, but in proper place. The indentation corresponds to the height of the letter upon the piece of type or the marks upon a cut, while the remaining parts should be perfectly smooth and free from holes. This matrix, obtained by a coating from the type or cut, will serve as the mould for the final rubber stamp.

Pieces of caoutchouc are cut to the required size and laid upon the matrix. If pressure is now exerted the soft mass will adjust itself to fill all the spaces and reproduce the mould invertedly. Indentations become raised matter, and the whole will show as did primarily the type.

But as the caoutchouc has a tendency to return to its previous shape it becomes necessary to apply the process called vulcanizing. The object is to impart hardness to the rubber, and to prevent its losing the form into which it has been pressed.

To accomplish this the caoutchouc must be heated to a temperature of from 120 to 130 deg. C. As the substance is ordinarily softened by heat it is necessary to take some means to prevent it from sticking to the mould. For the purpose soapstone will answer, and the mould, as well as the piece of caoutchouc, should be well brushed or dusted with this substance.

The duration of the heating varies with the thickness of the rubber sheet. As a general thing from twenty to thirty minutes ought to be sufficient. It may be mentioned here that special apparatus can be purchased for pressing and vulcanizing. The proper vulcanization is of the greatest importance in determining the durability of the stamp.

All that remains to complete the stamps is the mounting of the rubber plate upon a suitable base or handle. This is best done either with zinc or with a solution of caoutchouc in benzine. The surface of the handle, as well as the back part of the stamps, having been covered with such a solution and well pressed together, after drying the entire stamp will be ready for use.--_Amer. Lith. and Printer._

Vermin Exterminators.

=Phosphorus or Luminous Paste.=

This is an unequaled preparation for destroying rats, mice, cockroaches, etc. It attracts them by its luminous appearance and also by its odor, which is very attractive to all vermin. They eat it with great avidity.

Phosphorus 1/2 ounce.
Armenian bole 1 ounce.
Arsenic 1 ounce.
Oil of rhodium 1/2 drachm.
Tallow 10 ounces.
Rye flour 12 ounces.
Water 12 ounces.

Cook the flour and water to a thin paste; add the phosphorus--previously melted in a little hot water--and mix; then add the rest and stir until thoroughly mixed.

OTHER METHODS OF DESTROYING RATS.--(1) Mix some fine plaster of Paris with an equal quantity of flour; put the mixture in the place infested by the vermin and a vessel full of water beside it. The rats will devour the mixture and then drink, whereupon the plaster, brought into contact with the water, will become solid and like a stone in their stomachs, which will cause their deaths. (2) When a house is infested with rats which refuse to nibble at toasted cheese or the usual baits, a few drops of oil of rhodium poured on or near the bait will attract them while the most tempting baits fail. (3) Cover the floor near their holes and place into their haunts a quantity of caustic potash. This they lick with their tongues, which makes their mouths sore, and they not only shun this locality, but appear to tell all the neighboring rats about it. (4) Instead of using chloride of lime or potash a quantity of tar can be smeared in and around their haunts and they will disappear. Tar and rats do not agree. If a live rat be caught, smeared with tar, and allowed to escape into the holes he will do the smearing process thoroughly.

=Roach and Moth Exterminator.=

Thymol 2 parts.
Salicylic acid 2 parts.
Alcohol 200 parts.
Oil of lemon 1 part.

This new, simple, and cheap preparation makes no stain and kills the vermin immediately. The odor is not unpleasant, and is quickly removed by airing the room. Use by sprinkling, or moistening blotting paper with the solution.

=Moth Powder.=

Lupulin 1 drachm.
Scotch snuff 2 ounces.
Camphor gum 1 ounce.
Black pepper 1 ounce.
Cedar sawdust 4 ounces.

Mix thoroughly and strew among the furs and woolens.

=Bedbug Poison.=

Corrosive sublimate (in powder) 2 ounces.
Alcohol 1 pint.

Apply with a feather or stick into their hiding places. Label poison, and place all such compounds out of the reach of children.

=Poison Fly Paper.=

White arsenic 1 ounce.
Sugar 1/2 pound.
Concentrated lye 1/4 ounce.
Water 1 quart.

Dissolve the concentrated lye in the water, add the sugar and boil the solution, meanwhile gradually adding the arsenic. While still warm dip porous paper (cut into small squares) in the solution and dry them. For use place in plates or saucers partly filled with water where the flies can get at them.

=Sticky Fly Paper.=

Rosin 8 ounces.
Lard or cotton-seed oil 3 ounces.

Boil together, spread thinly on manilla paper, place another sheet on top, and when wanted pull them apart and it is ready for use. This is now usually preferred to the poison paper, as the flies are caught and held and do not die and drop into food, etc.

=Mosquito and Fly Frightener.=

Petrolatum 1 ounce.
Paraffine 1/8 ounce.
Oil pennyroyal 1/3 ounce.
Oil of tar 2/3 ounce.
Carbolic acid 2/3 drachm.

Melt the solid ingredients together, and when partly cooled add the other ingredients. This is an elegant preparation to rub on the hands and face where flies, mosquitos, gnats, etc., are troublesome.

Inks.

Late improvements in the manufacture of inks are due to the discovery and cheapening of substances which can be used in preparing them. While good common writing inks are quite easily procured in the market, still they can be manufactured much cheaper by the consumer; and then again there are a variety of special purposes which require inks that are not on sale, and formulas for making them are very valuable. In this collection we give approved and tested formulas for everything in the ink line.

=Fine Black Ink.=

[FROM LOGWOOD.]

A good black ink can be made by boiling 3 pounds of logwood with sufficient water to leave a residue of 5 quarts. When cold add 3 drachms of yellow bichromate of potash and stir thoroughly. To prevent thickening add a few drops of solution of mercury salt. It flows freely from the pen. Its color at first is of a dark indigo-blue tint, changing soon into a permanent black. A beautiful gloss may be given to this or any other black ink by adding a strong solution of shellac and borax.

=Fine Black Ink.=

[FROM ANILINE.]

Black aniline crystals (negrosine) 1-1/2 ounces.
Dextrine 1 ounce.
Corrosive sublimate 5 grains.
Water 2 quarts.

Dissolve the negrosine in a quart of hot water; dissolve the corrosive sublimate and dextrine in the remaining quart, and pour all together. This is a splendid ink, flows freely from the pen, and will keep well.

In making ink use care in buying the best anilines and other ingredients. This is important.

=Fine Red Ink.=

Eosine aniline 100 grains.
Water 1 pint.

Simply dissolve the aniline in the water. No better bright, fiery red ink can be made.

=Fine Violet Ink.=

Violet aniline 70 grains.
Alcohol 1/2 ounce.
Dextrine 1/2 ounce.
Hot water 1 pint.

Dissolve the aniline in the alcohol and the dextrine in the hot water, and mix them.

=Fine Blue Ink.=

Water blue aniline 1 drachm.
Dextrine 1/4 ounce.
Hot water 1 pint.

One-fourth of an ounce of Prussian blue may be used instead of the water blue aniline.

=Fine Green Ink.=

Green aniline 1 drachm.
Dextrine 1/4 ounce.
Hot water 1 pint.

Aniline inks of any color can be made in a similar manner. Simply get the desired color of aniline. Maroon ink may be made by mixing equal quantities of black, blue, and red inks; yellow by adding 1-1/4 drachms of picric acid to 1 pint of hot water.

=Copying Ink.=

Take 1 pint of the violet-black ink and add 1 ounce each of sugar and gum Arabic. This is for what is called moist copying where a press is used. For what is termed dry copying mix about 1/3 pint of glycerine to a pint of any good black ink. The manuscript, if written on glazed paper, will not dry for hours, and will yield one or two fair, neat, dry copies by simple pressure of the hand. The writing should not be excessively fine nor the strokes uneven or heavy. The copies and the original are neater than when water is used.

=Gaffard’s Indestructible Ink.=

Lampblack 1 part.
Potash water glass 12 parts.
Aqua ammonia 1 part.
Distilled water 38 parts.

The potash water glass should be of the consistency of syrup.

=Hektograph Ink.=

(SEE PAGE 1.)

A good purple ink to use on the gelatine copying pad, or hektograph, is prepared as follows:

Methyl violet 1 ounce.
Water 8 ounces.
Glycerine 1 ounce.
Alcohol 1/4 ounce.

Dissolve the methyl-violet in the water and add the glycerine. Gently warm the solution for an hour, and after cooling add the alcohol.

When black hektograph ink is desired, instead of the methyl-violet use double the amount of negrosine.

=White Ink.=

An excellent white ink, which can be used with a pen for writing on colored cards or paper, may be made as follows:

Flake white 12 drachms.
Mucilage of gum Arabic 6 drachms.

If too thick add water; if too thin, more mucilage. Shake well while using.

=Rubber Stamp Ink.=

Aniline (desired color) 1/2 ounce.
Glycerine 2 ounces.

=Ribbon Ink.=

FOR TYPE-WRITERS, DATING STAMPS, ETC.

Aniline 1/2 ounce.
Alcohol 4 ounces.
Glycerine 7 ounces.
Water 4 ounces.

Dissolve the aniline in the alcohol and add the other ingredients.

=Marking Ink.=

FOR PACKAGES AND BOXES.

Extract of Logwood 8 ounces.
Bichromate of potash 1 ounce.
Hydrochloric acid 3/4 ounce.
Dextrine 4 ounces.
Water 1/2 gallon.

Boil the logwood with the water, add the acid and potash, and lastly the dextrine.

=Indelible Ink.=

FOR MARKING LINEN, ETC.

Dissolve 5 parts of lunar caustic in 10 parts of spirit of sal ammoniac. Add to the solution 7 parts of pure soda, 5 of gum Arabic, and 12 of water.

=Ink for Writing on Metals.=

VALUABLE IN MARKING TOOLS AND INSTRUMENTS.

Muriatic acid 1 ounce.
Nitric acid 1/2 ounce.