Chapter V: Part II: Outfit

THE SKI.

Almost every valley in Norway had at one time its own special type of ski, supposed by its inhabitants to be peculiarly suited to their requirements; and in other lands the variations have been no less numerous and remarkable. Those interested in antiquities of this kind are recommended to visit Herr Welhaven’s very large and complete collection in Christiania, which it is to be hoped the Norwegian nation will acquire and exhibit in a suitable museum before it is purchased by some wealthy foreigner. We do not propose to weary the ordinary reader with a minute description of the various types, especially as time has shown the special virtues claimed for them to have been largely imaginary. The very curious Oesterdal ski are, however, worthy of special notice. In that district the natives used on the left foot a very long (about 11ft.) and narrow ski, and on the right a shorter (about 8ft.) and broader one, covered with elk’s or seal’s skin. The hairy ski was used to push, climb, and turn on, and was called the _Andor_; whilst the long one, called the _Langski_, was for resting on when running straight. The long ski was of special value in crossing the hard, lumpy snow so common in that wind-swept region. There was much sense in this arrangement, for in point of fact one does as a rule, even now, run on one ski and steer with the other; but we fancy that the uneven movements on the level must have been somewhat fatiguing. Be this as it may, the _Andor_ and the _Langski_ are now practically extinct, and in hilly countries the _Telemark_ ski has now superseded all others. In Sweden, Finland, and Russia, and in flat countries generally, a very long, thin, and narrow ski is found to be faster. The curve in front is very flat, and there are considerable variations in the form of groove used underneath. But for a mountainous country these are too long for up-hill work, and the sharp, flat point is not suitable for glissading. The Telemark type can, on the other hand, be used everywhere, and we have no hesitation in recommending it to our readers.

To the inexperienced eye there is very little difference between the shape of the ski used by the Telemarkings who first came to Christiania and those now for sale in that town or on the Continent. Differences, however, do exist, and some of them are important; besides which it is unquestionably pleasant to be the owner of a handsome pair of ski which, in addition to possessing certain advantages, are always a source of gratification to oneself and of envy and admiration to one’s friends. We will accordingly mention all the points of a really good pair, beginning with the most important.

THE WOOD.

It is, of course, necessary that they should be made of very well-seasoned wood, but, unless you happen to be a timber expert, you will have to take your dealer’s word for this. Ash is the wood most widely used, and the one which we would recommend the beginner to purchase. Hickory ski are faster than ash, but they are considerably heavier, and frequently brittle. Fir ski are cheap, light, and suitable for children, but it is difficult to get really good wood strong enough for adults; moreover, they are considerably slower than ash. Walnut is also said to be excellent, but it is difficult to procure in long enough and straight enough planks, and it is little used. A combination of pine and hickory is often employed for racing, where extreme lightness and speed are of importance, but it is not as strong as good ash.

Having decided on the wood, see that the grain is as straight as possible, and that if at any place it runs out its lines when doing so point downwards towards the heel, and not upwards towards the toe; otherwise when the ski begins to wear splinters will be formed, which will stick downwards into the snow and act as brakes. Beware of very light ash, which is apt to be brittle; the best is somewhat heavy even when thoroughly dry and well seasoned. By-and-by, when you have acquired some skill, you may perhaps like to have a pair of light ski for the mountains where you intend to go carefully and take no risks, and where consequently the chance of a break is considerably less; but you will appreciate them all the more if you have got into the way of using a heavier article down below.

SHAPE.

The bend in front is of importance. It should begin very gradually at a point about four-fifths of the distance between the heel end and the tip, and should not be too steep. A rise of about 5in., measuring from the ground to the bottom of the tip, is amply sufficient. A good ski should also be fairly “whippy” about the point, but the elasticity should be distributed gradually from centre to tip, and should not come suddenly at one point only. We also like a ski to be broad at the bend, a shade broader even than the beautiful form shown in Figs. 4 and 5. The two qualities of gentleness of curve and breadth at the tip assist a rapid passage _on the top_ of smooth snow, whilst the elasticity is valuable on lumpy ground, besides being conducive to lightness. The desirability of elasticity is, we think, a reason for eschewing the round-upper-sided ski sometimes sold in Norway. The round upper-side does not, of course, permit of so much loose snow resting upon it as the flat, but it makes the front part of the ski very stiff, and consequently unpleasant to run on, slow, and liable to break.

Besides the bend at the point, there is a long upward curve throughout the length of the ski, running from heel to entrance. The object of this is, of course, to prevent any bending in the opposite direction caused by the weight of the body; it also serves to provide an agreeable elasticity when one is running on the level.

COLOUR.

The colour of the ski is very largely a matter of taste, and in nine days out of ten is of no practical importance. Every now and again, however, there will be a time when the sun will beat fiercely on dark-coloured ski and warm them, causing the snow to adhere to them top and bottom more readily than to those of lighter colour, which throw off a greater proportion of the rays. For which reason we unhesitatingly give our vote for plain varnished or white-painted ski. Black-painted ski are, however, very common in Norway. They look very smart and present a pleasing contrast to the snow, and they are frequently recommended for mountain use, for the reason that when the eye is dazzled by vast expanses of unbroken white they afford a valuable point of focus, and so act as a preventive to snow-blindness. We would, however, strongly advise the reader not to rely too much on this, or sooner or later his eyes will surely be affected. Smoked goggles, or some such arrangement as that recommended on page 50, are infinitely preferable to any black paint. Besides which, plain varnished ski are ever so much darker than the snow, and one can focus one’s eyes almost equally well on them. The painting of ski is, on the other hand, often a cunning device on the part of unscrupulous dealers to hide defects in the wood--a fact which may account for their popularity to a greater extent than the guileless may suppose.

Modern “Telemark” Type.

FIG. 4.

FIG. 5.]

Having, then, given our vote for plain-varnished, flat-topped, fairly heavy ash ski of Telemark type, with a long, easy, flattish elastic entrance and a broadish point, it remains for us to consider how broad they shall be at the middle and how long over all, and whether they shall or shall not be provided with a groove underneath them running from end to end. We approach these questions with a certain degree of diffidence, for, in the first place, investigations with a view to their answer have not been, and perhaps cannot be, carried out with much scientific precision, and, in the second place, they will always remain very largely matters of personal taste.

SMOOTH-BOTTOMED AND BROAD _versus_ GROOVED AND LONG.

Evidently to some extent the length and breadth of a ski must be proportionate to the weight of the runner, a certain degree of carrying surface being necessary to obviate sinking. But, apart from all questions of support, length is of great importance. In this respect ski resemble ships, for, generally speaking, the longer they are the faster they go. Area for area long ski are faster than broad. On the other hand, the shorter a ski is the more readily it will turn, and it is, of course, very important to be able to steer easily. There comes a point, however, when ease of turning develops into wobbling, and seriously interferes with one’s balance when running straight. Nor is the unsteadiness of short and broad ski confined to what may be considered as _horizontal_ wobbling, due to inequalities of the ground, but broad ski are also more subject to what may be regarded as _vertical_ wobbling, due to unequal snow consistency. For in the case of the long ski variations in the carrying power of the snow and consequent errors of balance occur in a backward and forward direction, but in the case of a broad ski in a sideward direction, which latter is, of course, more upsetting.

_Photo by E. C. Richardson_]

Again, almost all ski are nowadays provided with a groove along the bottom, beginning at a point a little distance below the bend and continuing to the heel. The object of this is to prevent _horizontal_ wobbling and to assist straight running. Its working is most powerful. Clearly, then, some sort of compromise must be arrived at between a very smooth and broad ski on the one hand, and a very long and grooved one on the other. Now in Norway straight running is all the order of the day. Around Christiania there is scarcely a hill which cannot be, and is not, taken at full speed, and the smooth, glacier polished mountains of that country are equally suitable for a straight descent. In the Black Forest, too, straight running is paramount. For these countries we recommend grooved ski about as long as the distance between the ground and the roots of the fingers when the hand is held above the head, and of a width proportionate to the weight of the runner. In Switzerland, however, the ground is both steeper and more irregular, and in general far more difficult for straight running, hidden water-courses, rocks, and other obstacles being of common occurrence. There, it is accordingly of paramount importance to the beginner to be able to control his speed and to turn, and our advice is that in that country he should, for ordinary going, use somewhat shorter and slightly broader ski--say, about 6in. shorter than in Norway. We advise him _for all-round purposes_ in Switzerland to retain the groove. But if he is going to do much climbing on very steep and difficult ground, or if he is advancing in years and has lost something of his pristine dash, he may find it convenient to omit the groove and to travel on perfectly smooth boards.

LONG ALPINE TOURS.

For really long and arduous mountain tours in the Alps, where every ounce of weight tells, we would recommend a further reduction of about a foot in all from the customary Norwegian length, and only a slight increase (if, indeed, any) in the ordinary breadth. On such expeditions careful going and power of control are of paramount importance, and ski-running becomes more of a means to an end than an end in itself. A little extra sinking in up-hill is not of much moment, and is more than equalised by the gain in lightness; and down-hill the loss in speed is of no consequence--indeed, in some cases a positive advantage. On such ski, too, the groove is better omitted.

ORDINARY USE.

The following table may help the reader to select ski of about the usual Norwegian proportions:--

HEIGHT OF THE SKI-RUNNER.
--------+--------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+------+-----
| | |4' 3"|5' 0"|5' 3"|5' 5"|5' 7"|5' 9" |5' 11"|
| ---- |Up to| to | to |to | to | to | to | to |Over
| |4' 3"|5' 0"|5' 3"|5' 5"|5' 7 |5' 9"|5' 11"|6' 1" |6' 1"
========+========+=====+=====+=====+=====+=====+=====+======+======+=====
}| Under | 2½" | 2½" | 2½" | 2½" | 2½" | | | |
WEIGHT }|10 STONE| 51" | 59" | 65" | 71" | 77" | -- | -- | -- | --
}|--------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+------+-----
OF }| 10 TO | | | | 2¾" | 2¾" | 2¾" | 2¾" | |
THE }|13 STONE| -- | -- | -- | 71" | 75" | 79" | 83" | -- | --
}|--------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+------+-----
SKI- }| OVER | | | | | | 3" | 3" | 3" | 3"
RUNNER.}|13 stone| -- | -- | -- | -- | -- | 79" | 83" | 87" | 91"
--------+--------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+------------

PRESERVATION.

Ski should be treated properly if they are to retain their full efficiency. It is a capital plan to oil them from time to time like a cricket bat. Linseed oil is best for the purpose, and a small quantity of paraffin should be added to it to help it to penetrate. This treatment hardens the wood, and renders it waterproof and not liable to splinter. Ski should be kept in a cool place, but should they be taken out of a warm room they should be left standing in the cold air for about ten minutes before they are allowed to touch the snow. One should avoid walking on them over earth and stones. After use they should be cleaned. To “set” them, place their under sides in contact, and strap them loosely together at the points where they touch--viz., extreme heel end and base of the tip. Insert a piece of wood about 2in. square and ½in. thick at a spot indicated by the usual position of your boot-heel; then strap tightly. They will then be in close touch at the ends, 2in. apart under the heel, and the “feathering” is thus preserved.

THE BINDING.

No part of a beginner’s outfit is likely to cause him so much “sweet sorrow” as his binding. The chances are enormous that whatever he buys will afford him plenty to think about, and, alas! to talk about, for a considerable time to come. During his early efforts he is certain to attribute most of his misfortunes to its manifest imperfections, and if, as we hope, he is a person of an inventive turn of mind, he will spend the greater part of his evenings, and perhaps even some of the watches of the night, in designing something new and original which will at one and the same time overcome all his difficulties and make his fortune.

It is our sincere desire to assist him in this laudable endeavour, and accordingly we shall give below a few of the qualities which a perfect binding ought to possess. Before proceeding to do so it will, however, be necessary to notice some of those actual forms which other ski-runners use or have used--a task which is not nearly so agreeable or so easy. For legion is their name, and it is difficult to make a selection without hurting somebody’s feelings. During the early days of the sport in Central Europe (that is to say, till quite recently) the fiercest controversy raged about bindings (see p. 15). But now, partly because of the impossibility of saying anything new on the subject, and partly because the discovery has been made that after all one’s fastening is not of paramount importance, the topic is no longer of absorbing interest. Not but what our Teutonic friends retain their love of controversy, and their earnest methods of conducting such, but the Scotchman in search of an argument would do better to start some theme other than bindings, as, for example, seal’s skin or wax. A reaction has, in fact, set in, and whereas two years ago the most complicated was the best, we were surprised last season to find a Continental friend using the old (and very excellent) Lapp binding, which was so much in vogue in Norway years ago when we first learnt to go on ski. He, of course, was under the impression that he had the very latest thing, and we did not enlighten him, but we should not be much astonished to find him next year twisting birch twigs after the manner of the early Telemarkings!

Now this plan of making a stiff and strong rope by twisting birch twigs was the earliest method of connecting the _heel_ of the foot with the ski. Prior to that a strap across the toe was all that was used. Any other arrangement was considered dangerous. Then came the Telemarkings (see p. 9) with their new methods. They bound the ski firmly to the toe, and lead ropes of twisted birch from the toe round the back of the heel. This arrangement was at once felt to be an advantage. Not only did it prevent the foot continually slipping out of the toe strap, but it relieved the toe itself from much of the strain involved when the ski has to be pulled forward in walking on the level or up hill; moreover, it enormously helped steering, and so it was adopted.

SOME COMMON FASTENINGS.

People living in towns, however, either could not procure birch twigs or lacked skill in preparing and fixing ropes made from them. Something else had to be substituted, and that something was the thin cane, which so long held the field. The canes were steamed, and bent round the back of the heel and secured in front by a clamp. This form of binding was and still is widely used. But the canes, even when covered with leather and strengthened with steel wire, were found to be inconvenient. They broke and they were cumbersome, and the guiding power they allowed of was limited. So taboo was broken and metal was admitted into the construction of the fastening. Contrary, however, to expectation, people’s legs did not break oftener than before, and, as the iron also stood the strain, a binding like that given below (Fig. 6) became very popular.

The heel is secured by means of a single thong about 7ft. long, with a loop at the end. The loop end is doubled close to the loop, and the bight passed through the hole in the ski below the ball of the foot. The long end is then passed round the back of the heel, through the bight, back round the heel, and through the hoop thus:--]

The LAPP BINDING shown above is Huitfeldt’s pattern. The novelty about it was the iron toe piece; the thong arrangement had long been used by the Lapps. As previously mentioned, many people still employ this binding, and when skilfully adjusted it can be very firm, and it possesses the merits of extreme simplicity and ease of repair.

We have, however, several objections to it. In the first place, it takes some little practice and some little strength to fix the thong properly, an operation rendered doubly difficult when the leather is frozen and the fingers cold. Again, the thong, especially if changes of temperature occur, is continually expanding and contracting; the knots in it are apt to make sore places on the foot, and, like a boot-lace, it has an irritating way of breaking just when one is in a hurry. Again, the iron toe piece must be _most carefully_ adjusted to fit the boot. In short, we dislike the whole fastening for the reason that, unless it is very carefully put on and attended to, it becomes altogether toe wobbly.

The HUITFELDT BINDING given above is considered by many people to be an improvement on the Lapp binding, and it has attained a vast popularity in Norway. In principle it differs from the latter but little; but very stout straps are substituted for the thong with its troublesome knots, and the iron toe-piece is made of a solid piece of metal, which is bent up on either side of the ski, and which can be hammered into the exact shape of the sole of the boot. This is an advantage, as an accurate fit is insured. The disadvantage is that it is liable to be bent out of shape by the heavy-soled boot which it is necessary to wear with this and with the Lapp-binding. The straps, with it too, expand and contract with the temperature, and a very slight degree of slackness is sufficient to make the whole very loose. Moreover, the side straps catch the snow to some extent and act as a brake, though usually this is not of much consequence. The Huitfeldt binding is also troublesome to put on firmly, especially when the straps are frozen. Höyer-Ellefsen’s shortening clamp (Fig. 8) is designed to get over this difficulty, but it is new, and we have not had sufficient experience of it to offer any criticism.

We now come to a new class of fastening, where the heel is connected with the ski by means of some sort of sole, generally made of the “belting” used for driving machinery, fixed to the top of the ski in front of the toe. There are innumerable variations of this plan, a very simple one being to fix a piece of the belting in front of the foot and to attach it to the heel of the boot by means of a dummy heel and a strap leading round the instep. The toe is held in position either by side irons and a strap, as in the Huitfeldt binding, or by a simple broad strap passing through the ski and buckling across the toe. In the latter form it has attained to considerable popularity on the Continent, especially in the Black Forest. We do not, however, think it worth while to give a picture of this fastening, as it is not one which we can recommend for any purpose. The dummy heel fills up with snow, and becomes uncomfortable; and as to the belting, one is in this dilemma, that if one uses it thin it buckles and if one uses it very thick it becomes heavy and too stiff for comfortable walking unless it be fastened very far forward, in which case it rises off the ski at every step and presses the toe against the toe strap, thereby causing discomfort and cold feet.

TORGERSEN’S “HANDRY” BINDING (Fig. 9) is, we think, vastly preferable, for it has no heel to collect snow, and the belting, only reaching half-way down the foot, is not so liable to buckle.

It cannot, however, claim to be a really firm binding, though if the strap leading from the belting round the instep be pulled tight (and a tight strap at this part of the foot does not seem to affect the circulation) it is not so loose as might be supposed at first sight. But the chief advantage of Torgersen’s binding is its extreme adjustability. It will fit almost anybody, and can be taken on and off in a moment. On this account it is a very good binding for clubs or shopmen in Switzerland who let out ski to a number of different people for short periods. Its only moderate firmness also recommends it to nervous beginners who want to run straight and fast, and who are afraid of the slight extra risk involved by using a rigid fastening.

ELLEFSEN’S PATENT BINDING (Fig. 10) is of the same class. It appeared last season (1904-5), and has scarcely been in use long enough to allow of exhaustive criticism.

As with Torgersen’s, the belting only reaches about half-way down the foot, where it is terminated by an iron cross-piece with upright cheeks fitting on either side of the heel (see Fig. 10). From these cheeks a strap leads round the back of the heel, by means of which the belting is pulled tight. This stretching of the belting is the novelty of the arrangement, and is very ingenious, as, of course, it prevents all buckling. The iron toe-pieces are much the same as in Huitfeld, but they are fixed firmly to the ski by means of the little metal tongues which are part of them. The tongues at the same time secure the driving belt under the toe, giving it due stiffness in a vertical direction and preventing pressure of the toe strap. But obviously this is the weak spot of the front part of the arrangement, and unless the belting is of the very best quality it is liable to tear there. The makers, however, claim that the best belting will not tear, and time alone can decide whether this is so or not. The binding is not readily adjustable, and when ordering it is necessary to send a sketch of the boot which one intends to use with it.

The figure with the boot also shows a little strap sewn on to the heel of the boot to prevent the heel straps slipping off. This is very useful with all the above-named fastenings. See _infra_, pp. 47 and 48.]

The LILIENFELD BINDING has caused more discussion and provoked more criticism than any other. It, too, is on the “sole” principle, but differs from all others in this respect, that (except for the heel and toe straps) it is made entirely of metal.

The vertical axis of the sole is, moreover, placed _in front_ of the toe, and not under it as in other fastenings, and vertical stiffness is secured by means of a very ingenious spring arrangement embedded in the ski. This shifting of the axis forward makes the binding feel curious at first, but one gets accustomed to it after a while, and then it becomes very comfortable and pleasant. An objection to the plan is, however, that one is deprived of much control over the heel of the ski, and is placed, so to speak, at the mercy of the spring. It is, however, often convenient to raise the heel of the ski when going up hill, and it is annoying to find when one tries to do so that it refuses to obey on account of the spring being insufficiently screwed up. On the other hand, if the spring be tight the heel keeps “clappering” up and down at every step. Another decidedly bad point about this fastening is its weight. It is unquestionably heavy. It is necessary, therefore, to use a considerably lighter ski with it than with any of the ordinary arrangements, and light ski are apt to be brittle. It is, however, a very powerful binding, very suitable for making “S” turns on steep and difficult ground. It seldom or never breaks, and it is adjustable to almost any boot. It is usually sold fitted to a special ski with a hole in it cut for the spring. The so-called “Alpine skee” is shortish, broadish, and flat-bottomed, with a sharply turned-up bluff entrance. These qualities render it less suitable for straight running, but useful for turning on the mountain-side, for which special purpose it is, indeed, designed. People somewhat advanced in years will find the “Alpine skee,” with its special fastening, of value for mountain tours, and it is, we think, easier to learn to turn on it than on any other; but your dashing youth and your jumper will certainly prefer the Norwegian article. Of course, the Lilienfeld fastening can be fixed to a Telemark ski.

METHOD OF FIXING.

The right way of attaching all the above-named bindings to the boot will have been evident from the descriptions appended to each. It is sufficient to observe here that the straps (and particularly the toe-straps) should never be pulled tighter than occasion demands. Tight straps are the surest road to frost-bite, besides being very uncomfortable. For all ordinary going--that is to say, during far the greater length of time that the ski are on the feet--the straps may be worn comparatively loose. It is quite easy to tighten them up for a difficult piece of ground or a jump, and there is no occasion to run unnecessary risks.

Another important matter is that with all ordinary bindings care should be taken not to thrust the foot too far into the toe-strap. The toe-strap should never cross the foot lower than the middle of the great toe. People are apt to neglect this simple precaution, but in doing so they run the risk of spraining the foot in the event of a fall forwards. In the case of the Lilienfeld binding, it is not necessary to be quite so careful, as with it the vertical axis is in front of the foot.