Chapter I: Biscay

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Departure from Bayonne, the Bidassoa, and entrance into Spain; Precautions against Robbery; Black Mail, and Anecdote; Charming and novel Scenery; Mail Travelling in Spain; Vittoria; Spanish Bread; Priests; the Spanish Cloak; Women; Arrival of the Infante Don Francis; a National Trait; Spanish Money and Expense of Travelling; Journey through Biscay to Bilbao; Chocolate; the Plain of Vittoria; Passage of the Biscayan Mountains; Durango; a Village Misfortune; Biscayan Recreation; the Muleteer’s Song; Bilbao; Traits of Spanish Character; Markets; Biscayan Political and Religious Opinions; State of the Inhabitants, and Mode of Life; Riches of the Corporation of Bilbao; Prices of Provisions; the Campo Santo; the Iglesia de Bigonia and its Superstitions; Trait of Spanish Pride and Generosity; the Convents and their Inmates; the Hospital; curious Customs, and extraordinary scene in a Coffee House; Improvement of Land in Biscay, Climate, Disease, &c.; peculiar Rights and Privileges of Biscay 1

CHAPTER II.

JOURNEY FROM BISCAY TO MADRID.

Waggon Travelling; Scenery; Bills of Fare, and Expenses; Second Visit to Vittoria; Departure for Madrid; the Ebro; Privileges of the Military; Old Castile; Husbandry; Burgos; Beggars; Posadas; Traits of Misery in a Castilian Village; New Castile; Quixotic Adventure; the Somo-Sierra, and Approach to the Capital; Sketches of the Environs, and Arrival in Madrid; Information for Travellers 44

CHAPTER III.

MADRID.

Streets and Street Population; Female Dress: the Mantilla; the Fan; Aspect of the Streets of Madrid at different hours; the Siesta; Shops; Good and Bad Smells; State of the Lower Orders; Analysis of the Population; Street Sketches; Sunday in Madrid; the Calle de Alcala; Convents; the Street of the Inquisition; Private Apartments in Madrid; the Prado and its Attractions; Ludicrous Incongruities; Spanish Women, and their Claims; the Fan and its Uses; Portraits; Inconvenient Exaction of Loyalty; the Philosophy of Good Walking; the Retiro; Castilian Skies; the Café Catalina and its Visitors; other Coffee Rooms, and Political Reflections; the Botanical Garden, strange Regulation on entering; the Theatres; Spanish Play Bills; Teatro del Principe; the Cazuela and Intrigue; Spanish Comedy; the Bolero; the Italian Company; Cultivation of Music in Madrid; the Guitar; Vocal Music; Spanish Music 65