Chapter IV: Madrid

The King, Queen, and Royal Family; Personal Appearance of Ferdinand; a Royal _Jeu d’esprit_; the King’s Confidence in the People, and Examples; Character of the King; a Carlist’s Opinion of the King; Favourites,--Calomarde,--Alegon,--Salsedo,--the Duque d’Higar; Rising Influence of the Queen; Habits of the Royal Family; Court Diversions; Rivalry of Don Carlos; the Queen’s Accouchement, and Views of Parties; Detection of a Carlist Plot; the Salic Law; Court Society; Persons of Distinction, and Ministerial Tertulias; Habits and Manner of Life of the Middle Classes; a Spanish House, and its Singular Defences; Abstemiousness of the Spaniards; Evening and Morning Visits; Balls and Spanish Dancing; Character of Spanish Hospitality; Spanish Generosity and its Origin; Examples of Ostentation; Morals; Gallantry and Intrigue; the Morals of the Lower Orders; Religious Opinions in the Capital, and Decline of the Priestly Influence; Jesuitical Education; the Influence of the Friars; Causes of the Decline of Priestly Influence, and the Continuance of that of the Friars; Convent Secrets; Curious Exposé at Cadiz; Devotion in Madrid 112

CHAPTER V.

MADRID.

The Profession of a Nun; Reflections; Description of the Interior of a Convent; the Monastic Life; Description of a Bull-Fight; Sketches of Spanish Character; a Horse Race 168

CHAPTER VI.

Memoir of Murillo 203

CHAPTER VII.

MADRID.

The Picture Gallery; the Works of Murillo; the Annunciation; the Virgin Instructed by her Mother; Landscapes; Velasquez and his Works; Meeting of Bacchanalians; the Forges of Vulcan; Españoletto and his Works; Villavicencio; Juanes; Alonzo Cano; Cerezo; Morales; Juanes’ Last Supper; the Modern Spanish School; Aparicio; the Famine in Madrid; Italian Gallery; Flemish School; the _Sala Reservada_; Statuary; Cabinet of Natural History; _Sala Reservada_; the Patrician’s Dream; the _Desengaño de la Vida_; Private Collections; the Duke of Liria’s Gallery; Churches and Convents; Church of San Isodro; San Salvador; Santa Maria; San Gines; Santiago; San Antonio de Florida; Convent of Las Salesas; de la Encarnation; the Franciscans; Santa Isabella; Hidden Pictures; San Pasqual; Santa Teresa; the Palace 233

CHAPTER VIII.

Literature; Difficulties to be encountered by Authors; the Book Fair; Digression respecting the Claims of Spain to Gil Blas; Public and Private Literary Societies; Libraries; Obstacles to Improvement, from the State of Society; Female Education; Education for the Liberal Professions; Course of Study for the Bar; Course of Medical Studies; Charitable Institutions; Consumption of Madrid; Prices of Provisions 265

CHAPTER IX.

State of Parties, and Political Prospects 293

CHAPTER X.

THE ESCURIAL--ST. ILDEFONSO--SEGOVIA.

Journey from Madrid; First View of the Escurial; Philip II.; Situation of the Escurial; the Church; Lucas Jordan; the Relics; the Santa Forma; the Sacristy and its Pictures; a Reverie; the Hall of Recreation; the Library; the Tomb of the Kings; the Manuscript Library; Ignorance and Idleness of the Monks, and Anecdotes; Manner of Life among the Monks; the Palace; Particulars of the Extent and Cost of the Escurial; Pedestrian Journey across the Sierra Guaderrama to Ildefonso; the Palace, Waters, and Garden of La Granja; Road to Segovia; its Remains, and Present Condition; Expensiveness of Royal Honours; Return to Madrid 328

CHAPTER XI.

TOLEDO.

Journey from Madrid; Proofs of the backwardness of Spain; Appearance of the Country; Spanish Mule-driving; a Venta; First View of Toledo; Toledo Recreations and Society; Remains of Former Grandeur, and Proofs of Present Decay; Picturesque Views; the Tagus; Intricacy of Toledo; Bigotry and Priestcraft; Reasons for the Prevalence of Religious Bigotry in Toledo; Proofs of Bigotry; Aspect of the Population; the Cathedral and its Riches; Scene in the Cathedral; the Alcazar; Historical Retrospect; Praiseworthy Institutions of the Archbishop Lorenzana; the University; Toledo Sword Manufactory; the Franciscan Convent; Return to Madrid 305

SPAIN IN 1830.