Chapter CD: AB. 3 aces 150 (2)

Much has already been said on the subject of stays and tight lacing, but with little real effect. Many women complain that they cannot walk uphill or upstairs without feeling short of breath. This is largely due to the natural expansive movements of breathing being limited to a minimum by stays. Their effect, bad in all cases, is worst in growing girls, whose ribs are still yielding and elastic, and thus more easily compressed. Parents are now becoming somewhat more alive to the fact, that there must be for girls as well as boys a due proportion of free out-door exercise associated with the lessons at school. In too many girls the natural supports of the spine, the muscles of the back and chest, have partly been left undeveloped by want of exercise, partly been wasted and cramped by the pressure and the artificial support of hard, unyielding, and too often tightly laced stays. Hence it is that far more girls than boys have twisted spines. Girls would be as straight as boys are usually had they only fair treatment. The muscles of the back being weak, the girl sits habitually to one side or the other, and what was at first merely an awkward habit, becomes very soon a decided curvature. If something must be worn to support the figure, a softer and more pliant article than ordinary stays might easily be devised. The corset recommended and used at the Girton Ladies’ College is reported to be such. Though the stays may be loose and easy, or absent altogether, dresses are often made or become too tight across the chest. When unbuttoned or unhooked, often a considerable space exists between the buttons and the button-holes, when the shoulders are held only properly back. This should not be. Such dresses prevent the lungs from expanding in the movements of respiration, interfere with easy and full breathing, narrow the chest round the shoulders, and favour if they do not directly lead to, consumption. Dresses for grown up persons should be full across the chest, for growing girls specially so; and when first made they ought to have enough cloth laid in to admit of ready enlargement, for a dress often becomes too small before it is worn out.

Here a few words are needed as to the place from which to hang the clothing--whether it should be supported from the shoulders or the hips (not waist). We heartily endorse Dr. Bernard Roth, when he says that Dr. Richardson is quite wrong in recommending that ladies’ dresses should be made to hang from the shoulders, and not from the hips. Many cases of spinal lateral curvature may be attributed to hanging an excessive weight of clothing from the shoulders. Growing girls and weakly women have sufficient difficulty as it is in holding themselves erect while carrying the head, neck and trunk, and upper extremities, without unnecessarily dragging down the shoulders by the weight of the long and heavy skirts exacted by fashion. It is much more sensible and scientific to attach the skirts to bands round the pelvis, where only the solid hip bone is pressed upon. Another great objection to suspending the skirts from the shoulders is that the respiratory movements of the upper part of the chest are unavoidably impeded by this arrangement.

For similar reasons braces are not so beneficial as Dr. Richardson believes, even for men who are not over-strong, and who would stoop less and find their chests freer by wearing braceless trousers fitted with an elastic band round, but not above the hip bones. Who among us would do heavy work or exercise in braces and no belt? Every labourer and every athlete discards braces for a waistbelt when actively engaged. At the same time the belt must not compress the inside--the trousers should hang from the hip bones. There is an additional value in the waistbelt, if it take the form of a woollen or silk sash, that it protects the viscera from sudden chills, and this is deemed of high importance in fever and cholera countries.

As to the question between trousers and knee-breeches, there can be no doubt that knee-breeches are on the whole more seemly and convenient than trousers. Certainly all callings which entail much physical exertion would profit by the change. In particular, this is true of labour in the open air. In this form of work especially, where there is frequent and prolonged movement of joint and muscle, the weight of surplus clothing soon occasions weariness, and the surroundings are not the most cleanly. The labourer if knee-breeched and gaitered would be disencumbered of as much heavy moleskin or corduroy as would otherwise fall below the knee, a part of his clothing would not then as now flap about the feet for no good purpose but to be soiled by the mire of his work, or in wet and cold weather to lead to illness by chilling or freezing on his legs. Gaiters of some close and not too heavy material might be worn over the stockings. They would be comparatively out of the way of dirt, would maintain warmth, would brace the muscles by equal and moderate pressure (a noteworthy consideration with men who are much on their feet), and if wetted might be easily removed and replaced by another pair. (_Lancet._)

Though in summer cotton socks are cool and pleasant, when one can wear thin shoes, and there does not exist any necessity for walking a long distance, woollen stockings are actually much more suitable at all seasons. Woollen stockings woven of coarse yarn absorb the perspiration and preserve the feet from blistering, and are cooler than cotton ones on a long walk. Tight garters are frequently worn below the knee by women. Garters in any position are bad, but if used they should be worn above the knee, as the two tendons to be felt at the back of the joint receive the pressure and act as a bridge to the veins which pass beneath. The garters as usually worn are a frequent cause of enlarged veins in the leg, and by interfering with the blood supply of the foot also favour the development of chilblains. Stocking suspenders bearing on the hips are far better.

Boots.--Boots and shoes must be easy, broad in the toes and sole generally, while the waist should have some degree of elasticity and not be absolutely rigid. High and narrow heels give an insecure hold of the ground, and throw the weight, which ought to be distributed over the sole, forward on the front part of the base of the toes. This unnatural position, besides rendering the risk of sprained ankles much greater, stretches the fibrous bands which bind the various and complicated bones of the instep into a beautiful arch, strong yet springy. The tough fibres yield, the foot flattens, elasticity and grace of movement disappear to a large extent, and aching pains are complained of. If we wish to walk elegantly, comfortably, far, and with ease, straight broad soles and low heels must be worn. Attention should constantly be paid to children’s boots and shoes, so as to have them lengthened or renewed as soon as they become short. The foot elongates considerably in walking, so all boots should have a full ½ in. or more of spare length to permit of this. Women’s boots and shoes are generally far too thin. Besides being worn thicker, the addition of an inner sole of cork covered with felt excludes damp from the ground or pavement, and aids in keeping the feet warm. These soles should, however, be taken out and dried at night or when the boots are laid aside. Lacing boots are better than elastic side ones, though in some ways the latter are more convenient. Patent leather boots are only suitable for occasional wear; like galoshes, they do not allow the escape of perspiration, hence are unhealthy, and if worn constantly engender habitual cold feet.

Do not purchase boots the uppers of which are formed of leather possessing an artificial grain. This is easy to detect; the rollers from which the skins receive their impressions are of too even a pattern, and the imitation is struck deeper than the real. Good upper leathers should handle mellow; leather destitute of suppleness and soft silkiness, or that leaves a decided line whenever pressed into a crease, should, in all instances, be avoided. With regard to the soles of boots, great precautions should be used to see that they are of the thickness they seem to be. It has become a practice with cutting manufacturers to use an outer sole of extremely light substance, making up the deficiency by means of an extra inserted welt. By this plan a box is formed between the inner and outer sole, the hollowness of which is filled in with scraps of leather, cardboard, or any foreign substance that is easily procurable and is fitted for the purpose. When sole leather has been cut and affixed as soles, the distinguishing marks that characterise good and bad leather are hidden from sight, so that the means of detecting that which should be avoided are few, and difficult to point out to a tyro. Sole leather being placed to resist moisture, it should not be too porous; in other words, it should be close in its grain, and possessed of a full share of firmness. The firmness here spoken of is something entirely distinct from brittleness. There can be solidity without brittleness, and this should be easily distinguished.

A boot should have a good and sufficient stiffener inserted at the heel to strengthen its back, and facilitate the getting of it on or off. This should be carefully inserted, and be shaped away so as to offer no resistance to the entrance of the foot. The top portion should be firmly secured to the back that it is meant to strengthen; so much so that there should be no possibility of its rucking down upon the insertion of the foot. It should be observed whether there is a superfluity of leather in the waist of the foot, that is, under the arch of the foot. The existence of such useless leather is a sure sign that the boot has been badly lasted, and that it has little or no spring in it, and that it will consequently give little or no support to the arch of the foot it covers. The buttonholes of a boot upper, if it have any, should be well and carefully stitched, and they will be found to wear much better if they are protected by the insertion of a cord. This cord sustains the drag or strain that the unprotected leather would otherwise have to bear. The channel is that portion of a hand-sewn boot in which the thread that attaches the outer sole to the welt lies hidden. Care should be taken by the purchaser to see that this channel is well and sufficiently closed over, otherwise it is easy to perceive that the sole has lost more than half its resisting power to damp or wet, and that the stitches will get soaked and speedily rot. The “seat” of a boot is that portion just above its heel. Look at this carefully. If it is likely to tread over by failing to resist the pressure it will be called upon to bear, do not by any means be persuaded to become the purchaser of boots with this defect. The reason why the front part of the upper of a boot is cut in two portions is because that practice conduces to economy. In selecting a pair of boots great care should be taken to avoid those in which the join falls over the great-toe joint.

Some time ago a correspondent of _The Field_ gave an excellent and simple method of treating the soles of boots to make them last as long as the “uppers.” The plan was to apply to them when new as many coats of coachmaker’s varnish as the leather would soak up. In varnishing the soles the following hints are of value, though, however roughly the operation is performed, they will become waterproof and durable:--(_a_) See that the soles are dry before using the varnish; also scrape off the black polish from the face of the heels; (_b_) thin the varnish according to circumstances; 1 tablespoonful turps to ½ pint varnish will usually be the right proportions; (_c_) place the boots, soles upwards, in a dry place, and give soles and heels 3 copious coats of varnish the first day, 2 the second day, and one coat each day after that until the leather will absorb no more; (_d_) do not miss a day, or the soles will harden and no more varnish will go into the leather; (_e_) 2 days after the last coat the boots should be worn, so that the soles may get shaped to the feet whilst moist. These directions may appear elaborate, but they are really very simple; and however badly the varnishing is done, the results will, to a certain extent, be good.

Ladies who have much walking are strongly advised to have kid leggings made at a bootmaker’s to button on from the tops of their boots to their knees; they can then go out in wet, damp, or extremely cold weather with perfect impunity. For girls who walk to and fro to attend school, or for those who are forced to go out in all weathers, the plan is a good one and well worthy of trial. The leggings are no weight, they are very warm, and will keep out damp and cold; whilst they are small enough to be carried about in a pocket, and put on or left off at a moment’s notice; so that they need only be worn when extra protection is absolutely needed.

Squeaky boots may be cured by the injection of powdered French chalk through a perforation in the inner sole; the free use of the same substance between the soles when boots are being made will effectually prevent any trouble of this nature.

Gloves.--In winter, at least, woollen gloves should be worn, as best preserving the proper circulation of the blood in the hands, and lessening the chance of chilblains. In the warm seasons silk or cotton ones are preferable to kid.

Head-gear.--Were it possible to form a covering for men’s heads which would admit both light and air in due proportions, a great problem would be solved, and baldness would be reduced to a minimum. Since hats are a necessity, they should be very light, pliant as far as may be, well ventilated, and with a soft band which will compress the arteries of the temple as little as possible. The hat, too, should only be worn when it cannot be laid aside--not constantly, or when in the house. Ventilation is best secured by having a slight space between the band and the hat proper in front and behind, the hat being close to the head at the sides, to avoid conveying the impression of being over large. In addition, there should be a hole in the crown for cold weather, and in the sides and crown in summer. As to women’s bonnets, any advice would be a mere waste of words.

Veils, especially those ornamented with spots, &c., have a bad effect on the eyes. Persistent mischief is done by the practice of binding a veil tightly round the face in such a way that not only is the sight obscured, but the eyes are mechanically irritated by the fabric clouding them.... Veils of to-day are semi-transparent eye-bandages, and must tend to disturb the vision, as well as to set up irritation in the eye-lids. (_Lancet._)

Waterproofs.--It is highly important that the public should clearly understand the manner in which waterproof garments may prove injurious to health, and how any effect of this kind may be prevented. A mackintosh is perspiration-proof as well as rain-proof, and, consequently, when one is worn the perspiration, being unable to escape, accumulates in the clothes, and they become damp. Upon its removal, the evaporation of this fluid--in other words, the drying process--commences, with its attendant loss of heat and well-known risk of “chill.” The retention of this heat, which would otherwise be gradually lost, makes the mackintosh invaluable during a long drive on a cold winter’s day. The disadvantage of this garment is, not that it inflicts any injury while it is on; but that our clothes being damp, we may catch cold upon its removal, unless our dress be changed at the same time; and when the dampness is very decided this precaution should certainly be taken. Endeavour to avoid excessive perspiration by walking slowly when you have a mackintosh on, and do not wear it in hot weather except for driving. (Dr. P. Foster.)

_How to Buy Clothes._--Low-priced materials do not wear so well as those for which a fair amount is paid; but it is not in the power of every woman to purchase materials which are necessarily expensive. The woman of small means will do well to confine her purchases to some well-established shop, famed rather for the soundness of its goods than for their apparent cheapness.

Ladies’ boots and shoes cannot be well made and of good materials for a little money; 21_s._ to 25_s._ for boots, 16_s._ to 18_s._ for walking shoes, suited for town wear, is about the lowest price for which a really good serviceable article can be obtained; but each of these will wear out three so-called cheap ones, and will look well to the last, after being twice soled. No boot or shoe will last if the servant is allowed to scrape the dirt off with a knife, put blacking on soft kid, or smear it over with some patent satin polish or peerless gloss. See to the cleaning of your boots and shoes yourself--that is, only have the dirt wiped off, and the kid well rubbed dry by the servant, and put on the polish yourself if it must be used. Evening shoes of a colour suitable for any dress can scarcely be had good for anything under 10_s._ 6_d._ or 12_s._ 6_d._, but they will wear out several cheaper pairs, and look well to the last.

The greatest mistake is to be perpetually attempting to keep pace with “fashion.” The best-dressed women are never “in the fashion,” as it is represented in young ladies’ journals. For economical dressing without dowdiness, the golden rule is to buy the best and soundest materials possible for your means, to keep to such quiet colours as will enable you to wear your dresses long without getting tired of them or tiring your friends; to buy a mantle, for instance, which is too good to need changing at the end of the year, but which is handsome enough to wear two seasons, and to bear retrimming or altering the third.

Many ladies now make their own dresses, and make them well; but where this is not the case, it is cheaper in the long run to have a good material well made than to have it spoiled in the cut and made by an inferior workwoman. Many find it economical to have one good dress every year from a first-class dressmaker: this lasts and makes up again in many new forms, and serves as a model for making others less expensively, either by themselves or by a workwoman. A clever-handed woman can generally make up or trim her own hats and bonnets, and if she carries out the same system of only buying what is really good, and taking care of it, she will find it at the end of the year a really small item in her expenditure. Much depends also on keeping up the supply of underclothing by constant small additions, rather than by allowing them to wear out altogether, when a renewal of the whole stock will form a serious item. Gloves, again, are things which there is no cheapness in buying at a low price; 2 or even 3 of them will wear out before one pair bought at a good shop and at a fair price; by this means they cost far more, and always spoil the whole dress.

Persons of moderate means should as a rule, dress in black, or dark colours, as such are not conspicuous, and consequently do not tell their date as lighter articles do. In selecting a hat or bonnet, be sure to ascertain that the shape suits you, and that it fits your head comfortably. Do not indulge in feathers, still less in flowers, unless your means are such as to enable you to procure the best, as nothing is more vulgar than cheap finery. For a windy day there is nothing half so comfortable as a tightly-fitting toque, but it must be neat and faultlessly made. A well-made toque is graceful, becoming, and comfortable, and, with a neat veil of spotted net closely adjusted over the face and fastened securely behind, will enable the wearer to brave the most stormy elements without fear of having her head-covering blown away or even misplaced. It is a great improvement, if a dark-coloured toque be worn, to stick a bright pin carelessly in front in a slanting direction, as though securing the top of the veil. To a youthful face it is always becoming, as it takes off the too sombre appearance and lightens up the general effect.

Jackets should not be worn quite tight, unless the figure is particularly good, and without this important “unless” Newmarkets should not be worn at all. Better be content with well-made ulsters, except in cases where the figure is slight and graceful, and the purse is long enough to admit of 7 or 8 sovereigns being paid for a tailor-made article. For travelling or walking there are few costumes more comfortable, nor any which look better on young slight figures, than dark green or brown cloth Newmarkets, with felt hats to correspond, and white or light coloured satin scarfs, with gold or pearl pins stuck neatly through. These coats cannot look well if worn over a dress. The following plan is good and extremely simple. Get your tailor, when measuring for your coat, to make you a perfectly close-fitting garment of the same coloured satin--made without ¼ in. of superfluous material--Princesse shaped, the long straight skirt just reaching a shade below the garment to be worn over it, and finished off at the tail with a tiny plaiting of satin, which, appearing from beneath the Newmarket, detracts from the manly appearance of this species of muffle. The advantages are manifold; not having any _pouffes_ behind, the set of the coat is not interfered with; being of a slippery nature the utmost care is experienced in putting on and taking off the covering, and should necessity or inclination call for a removal of the coat, a perfectly neat and becoming garment is visible underneath.

The most economical dress for everyday wear is a dark navy-blue serge, and for evening a good white silk. Morning dresses made with double-breasted bodices are the most becoming, and the warmest; for evening the square-cut bodice and tight elbow-sleeve are the most _distingué_. Bodices gathered back and front (“shirred”) are very pretty, and suit slight figures well, but should never be worn except by such. Many ladies spoil the fit of their dresses in winter by wearing under-vests. This is a bad habit, as, if the vest be left off of an evening, a cold is sure to follow. It is an excellent plan to tack a piece of soft warm flannel around the back and shoulders of the bodice about midway from the neck, and properly shaped to the lining; this imparts a comfortable warmth, and, as a similar piece can be adjusted to the back of an evening bodice, the danger of cold is obviated.

For wearing around the throat with morning dress plain collars have rather a stiff appearance; tulle or lisse frillings toss immediately, and are unsatisfactory as well as expensive. It is a good plan to purchase a few yards of really good washing lace about 1½ in. deep; a few minutes will quill or plait it; it can then be cut into suitable lengths and tacked around the necks of dresses, being easily removed and renovated when soiled. A piece of soft black Spanish lace, folded loosely around the throat, close to the frilling but below it, looks very well, especially if a natural or good artificial flower be worn amongst the folds. Another effective arrangement can be adopted thus: Buy 3 yd. scarf lace--a good kind, of course--trim the ends with quillings to match, place it around your neck, leaving nearly all the length in your right hand, the end lying upon the left shoulder, being about ½ yd. long. Wind the longer piece twice round the throat, in loose soft folds; and as you will still have 1½ yd. or more to spare, festoon it gracefully in front with the aid of a few concealed pins, and fasten a brooch or flower at the side.

Tan gloves are the best for wear. Long silk mittens are extremely pretty in the evening, and shorter ones midway to the elbow, look nice in the house with the half-long sleeves. To keep the feet warm, wear a pair of soft woollen stockings, with silk ones drawn over. This hint is invaluable to those who ride, as it is not unusual, on hunting days, to experience a severe chill, if riding a tired horse homeward at a slow pace after a hard day. One word about fur-lined cloaks. They seem to be a sort of muffle, quite unsuited for walking, and only fit to be worn as a wrap, in a vehicle, on a cold day. Apparently made for warmth, they let in every breath of chill air, unless held carefully across; and it is not easy thus to hold them, if one has an umbrella or a parcel to carry, or a muff to hold in the hands. Here is a valuable hint. Take the pattern of the sleeves of your Mother Hubbard cloak, and the precise measurement of the spot in which they are placed--copy them exactly, and insert them in the fur-lined mantle, binding the inner edges neatly with ribbon to prevent the fur, which is cut, from coming loose. Then remove the hood, place a neat full frilling of cashmere and satin around the neck, and a full bow, with long ends, at the back. Next put 5 rows of gathers at the back of the waist, to which attach, on the inner side, a band of ½ in. black elastic, with a strong hook and eye. This, when fastened, draws the cloak close to the figure and gives it a becoming shape. The band is preferable to a ribbon-string, as it is more readily adjusted and can never get into a knot. In making the gathers, small fragments of the fur may pull with the thread and show on the outside; these should not be plucked at, but simply blackened over with a little ink. To utilise the hood for going out at night, or for variety to wear with the cloak by day, bind it nicely with black ribbon, leaving long ends for strings to tie in front. The materials required to effect this transformation are: ¾ yd. cashmere, 1 yd. black satin, 5 yd. ribbon for back and sleeve bows, and 3 yd. binding ribbon.

An important consideration is how to dress so as to suit individual peculiarities. Thus, a short stout figure should have perpendicular trimmings to her dress, the eye being thus carried to lines marking the height, not the breadth, of her person. A tall figure, on the contrary, may have bands of trimming or tucks running across the skirt; this reduces the apparent height. Stout people, be they tall or short, should remember that they require almost no trimmings or puffings. They look handsomely dressed in quite a plain garment, if it be well cut and rich in texture. Thin people, on the contrary, take any amount of trimming and puffing to give them a sufficiently clothed appearance. The first study in every case is what is becoming, not what is fashionable. The principal idea should be to attract attention to the wearer, not to the dress.

It is safer to dress rather older than younger than your age, it generally makes women past 30 look younger to dress thus; but much depends on the colours used. It is easy to lay down rules of colour for decided brunettes or decided blondes, but much more difficult to fix rules for those who belong to neither class, and who compose the majority. It used to be an old rule with portrait painters that the colour of a woman’s eyes ought to be repeated in some part of her head-dress. It is a much safer rule to repeat the colour of the hair in the dress. This is why fur is so often more becoming than anything else, it is often an exact colour of the hair. The only case in which matching the hair would not be suitable, is when the hair is unmistakably red. Then nothing but the quietest colours should be worn, with a good deal of white at the neck. Very dark shades of red and brown go best with it, but they must be chosen with the greatest discrimination. It is a safe axiom to lay down that all very bright colours should be kept away from the face; only the finest complexions can stand them in close proximity to the skin. The idea that pink is becoming to dark people is a mistake: only a very fair blonde can bear it. Maize is also most becoming to a fair skin, though it is also suitable, occasionally, to dark-haired people. Half-tints are the safest wear in the long run, and dark-coloured plushes, velvets, and satins, with their lovely reflection, are becoming to all. A slight knowledge of what are called “complimentary colours” in optics is useful, for it teaches the effect of certain colours on the skin. Thus bright blue makes the skin look yellow; mauve makes it look orange-tinted; bright yellow gives it an ashen-blue look; bright vermilion-red makes the skin look green. Thus it will be seen that half-tints will not be so mischievous in their effects. Many elderly ladies have a preference for violet or purple. Nothing could be more unfortunate. As people get on in life, the skin assumes quite enough of a yellow tint, without adding to it by wearing its complimentary colour--purple. Transparent materials, such as lace or tulle, are the most becoming settings to old faces. For younger people, harmony in colour is everything. Brown may have points of yellow or paler brown; dark red, a carefully selected pink. If grey is worn, a little pale blue may be worn in the bonnet. Then gold ornaments look best with brown and red, silver ornaments with grey and blue. In combining materials for a dress, it will be found that too soft or too stiff materials are more difficult to drape gracefully than one of each kind. Silk and cashmere make a very good combination, and a cheap and effective imitation of these can be made in merino and good alpaca. Short people should have outdoor mantle and dress of the same colour, as a contrast in these takes away from their height. But they may wear with great advantage a pelerine, or long mantle, which comes to within 2 in. of the bottom of the skirt; in that case the dress does not much matter. The fashion of tight sleeves and cuffs is very unbecoming to the hands unless they are small. The cuff ought to measure the same as the hand across the knuckles; dressmakers generally only measure the wrist, which is quite a mistake, as it is often out of proportion to the hand. A frill at the wrist is always becoming to the hand, but not always becoming at the throat. Short necked, plump-faced people do not look well in frills round the throat. A piece of lace laid on flat is better for them. Thin, long-necked people, on the contrary, ought invariably to wear frills at neck and wrist. Belts are unbecoming to all waists over 25 in. Tippets and fur collarettes should not be worn by high-shouldered people. The great secret of dressing well is to know what to avoid. To know where advantage can be taken of a good point is well, but to know how to hide a bad one is better. Frequently the best-dressed women we see are those whose own deft fingers have put the finishing touches to their toilettes.

_Clothes for Foreign Boarding School._--(_a_) At Lausanne. Take 2 warm winter dresses (one for school, and one for church, &c.), 2 evening dresses, one light cashmere or beige dress, and 4 or 5 washing dresses. Two jackets (one for winter, and one for summer), a cloak or ulster, and a mackintosh. Much the same underclothing as one would take to an English school, with plenty of warm vests, &c., as the winter in Lausanne is colder than in England. Take a warm travelling rug, as sometimes in winter the “duvets” on the bed are not sufficient covering, and the rug will be very acceptable. July and August are the hottest months, but most people go to the mountains then. Take with you all in the way of clothes that you will require for the year, as dresses, hats, &c., are costly, and there is scarcely any choice there. Pack the things in 2 small basket trunks, rather than one large. Put such things as you will require immediately into one, and taking that with you, send the other and heavier one on by slow goods train. This will be found cheaper than taking all the luggage with you, as only 56 lb. of luggage is allowed free.

(_b_) In South Germany. For luggage, provide 2 leather-covered basket trunks and a black travelling bag, with necessaries for the voyage. If household linen has to be taken, pillow cases are best supplied at the school, being larger and different in shape from English ones; allow two large bath towels and a clothes bag, in addition to what is required. For dress, 2 thick blanket serge costumes, in addition to 2 cashmere dresses, fur cloak, eiderdown skirt, 2 knitted skirts, princess petticoats, high necked, in thick stuff, for winter wear, Galatea or white for summer; 2 short jackets, one thick cloth; also a shawl, as the passages are very cold, and a wrap is required for leaving the schoolrooms, as these again are rather over heated; white dress and pretty lace aprons and frills, for evening wear, when the young ladies are required to sit in the _salons_. Painting requisites had better be taken, for they are expensive; no school books, beyond church service and dictionary; add a few simple articles as suitable birthday presents for school friends, as the girls are expected to give on these occasions to mistresses and boarders, and it is tax on a girl’s pocket money. About 4 gingham housemaid dresses and 2 white cambric ones will be required for summer wear. Boots and furs are in comparison cheap in Germany. Seal fur caps are usual for winter wear.

_Bathing and Swimming Dresses._--There are 3 main points to consider before deciding on the make of a bathing dress: (_a_) the place at which it is to be worn, whether an English or a Continental watering place; (_b_) whether the wearer swims or merely bathes; (_c_) whether the wearer is a child, a girl, or a middle-aged woman. The best materials for bathing dresses are summer serge, cashmere serge, alpaca, wool bège, and twill flannel; give preference to the first two, because they are soft, pliable, and light, do not cling objectionably to the figure when wet, and may be obtained in almost any colour. Alpaca is recommended for its lightness to swimmers especially, but both this material and wool bège can only be had in black and neutral tints; whilst twill flannel can be bought in all colours, is very comfortable and warm, especially for children, and has only one drawback--that its woolliness prevents it from being allowed in most fresh-water swimming baths, and renders it, for this reason, an unwise investment for one who wishes to frequent baths on return to town.

The best way to make a swimming dress for use in England, to ensure comfort and ease, is to have a loose bodice to the waist fastened into a broad band, from which the drawers are suspended, the bodice fastening down the centre, the drawers on the left side. The combination style of garment, i.e., all one piece from the neck to the knees, has one great objection, viz., that any mishap with the buttons is very awkward when there is no skirt. This need never be feared when the bodice and drawers are made separately and fastened at the side, and the only way to avoid it in the combination style is to make the dress open to the waist and then have it cut straight across and down the side of the hips for 5-6 in., so that it can be buttoned up on to the waist-band. A dress intended for swimming only should be as simple as possible. It should not come over the knees, and not be trimmed with a large collar or elaborate sleeves. Deep white cotton fringe or Torchon lace will be found to give quite sufficient finish. 3 yds. of 24 in. material will be found ample to make a dress of this description for a girl about 20.

Where ladies bathe with gentlemen their dress must come below the knees, must have a skirt from the waist, and must have sleeves of some kind, and these, whether long or short, or however loose, are always uncomfortable for swimming, as they cling and impede the movements of the arm, whilst the whole dress is made heavier by these additions. The only way to make such a dress more comfortable is in the first place to avoid making the skirt too heavy or too deep, and next to make the drawers longer than is really needed, and to fasten them in at the knee, so that the legs may be moved comfortably.

Children’s bathing dresses are best made in the “combination” style, of bège or some warm material, for the shivering cold feeling some children get in the water when they are not able to swim is one of the chief causes of their dislike and fear of sea bathing. Bathing dresses for matrons may be made in almost any style, however elaborate or heavy. A very comfortable dress for ordinary wear in England may be made with drawers reaching either to the knee or ankle, and gathered in by a band of turkey red or material with which the dress is trimmed, running alternately in and out of inch-deep slips made for the purpose; the upper part being simply a long loose blouse made either with a yolk, sailor collar, gauging, or any other design at the neck, and fastened at the waist with a broad band, so as to leave the skirt loose to the knees. A dress made in this way will take about 5 yd. of 24 in. material. Another kind of bathing dress is made with combination bodice and drawers, with the addition of a deep cape plaited into the neck and reaching to the elbows, and a skirt from the waist. Colour and trimming are the chief points in the finish of a bathing dress. Only those who really have a good appearance should choose a brilliant colour like red, blue, pink, or yellow, charming as these colours are in the water.

To avoid looking conspicuous, have some neutral tint or dark colour, and bright trimming. Black is particularly becoming for bathing costumes, as it shows up the whiteness of the skin, and it is convenient besides, because it can be trimmed with any colour or design.

Plain white canvas shoes laced with a colour to match the dress are perhaps the best; but straw or cork soles, with an upper piece of the same material as the dress, laced with broad strips of braid to match the trimming, are also good. The upper part should be cut from the pattern of a gentleman’s slipper, fitted, sewn on to the sole, and pierced with 3 holes along each side. The braid is fastened each side of the holes nearest the toe, laced across into the others, and continued sandalwise up to the knee. It is useless to think of keeping the head dry, so caps should always be made to allow for wetting. One good plan is to take a plain straight piece of stuff like the dress, about ½ yd. long and ¼ yd. wide; place it straight round the head, and fasten or tie it underneath the hair at the back so as to leave the rest in loose folds. A cap the same shape as a brewer’s is very pretty, placed on the head, with the point twisted once and fastened on the left side. When bathing, a Japanese parasol will prevent getting sunburnt. (E. M. B.)

_Mourning._--The tendency of the day is towards shorter periods of mourning and deepening the mourning, so that half-mourning for aunts, cousins, &c., is almost abandoned, and only resorted to in longer periods of mourning. Crape is absolutely inadmissible with velvet, satin, lace, bright or glacé silks, embroidery, fringe, excepting the special “crape fringe,” or, indeed, with anything but mourning silk, paramatta, merino, cashmere, woollen barège or grenadine, or barathea. A widow’s mourning is the deepest, and continued longest. For the first 12 months the dress and mantle must be of paramatta, the skirt of the dress covered with crape, put on in one piece to within an inch of the waist; sleeves tight to the arm, bodice entirely covered with crape, deep, tight-fitting lawn cuffs with broad hems, and deep lawn collar. The mantle or jacket, of the same material as the dress, is very heavily trimmed with crape. The widow’s cap must be worn for a year, but not beyond the year. The bonnet is entirely of crape; it has a widow’s cap tacked inside, and is worn with a crape veil with a deep hem. When the crape on the dress requires renewing, it must be put on precisely as at first until the first 9 months have expired, after which, if preferred, it may be put on in 2 deep tucks, with about 1 in. space between them. Crape cloth is permissible, and well adapted for a rough or walking dress for the country; it wears well, and is not very easily distinguishable from crape at a distance. After the expiration of the first year, “widow’s silk” may be substituted for paramatta; but it must be heavily trimmed with crape. This is worn for 3 months, when the crape may be very sensibly lightened, and for the next 3 months jet passementerie and fringe may be used. At the end of the 6 months (18 months in all) crape may be left off, and plain black worn for 6 months; and 2 years complete the period of mourning. For the first year, while a widow wears her weeds, she can, of course, accept no invitations; and it is in the worst possible taste for her to be seen in any place of public resort. After the first year she can, if so disposed, gradually resume her place in society. It is usual for the pocket hankerchiefs to have broad black edges, and no jewellery of any kind, with the exception of jet, can be worn.

The mourning of a parent for a child, or a child for a parent, is the next degree and lasts for 12 months. For the first 3, paramatta, merino, coburg, woollen grenadine, or some similar material heavily trimmed with crape, usually in 2 deep tucks, is worn; for the next 3, silk mourning, with less crape, the latter arranged more ornamentally in plaits, folds, or bouillonnés, is admissible. The crape bonnet may have jet upon it, and the veil may be of net, with a deep crape hem. Linen collars and cuffs cannot be worn with crape. Crèpe lisse frills are _de rigueur_. Sable or any other coloured fur must be left off; plain, untrimmed sealskin is admissible, but it never looks well in really deep mourning. After 6 months, crape may be left off, and plain black, with jet ornaments and black gloves, worn for 2 months. For the next 2, black dresses, with gold or silver, pearl or diamond ornaments, and grey gloves, sewn with black. After this, half-mourning--such as black dresses with white flowers or lace; white dresses, with black ribbons; or grey dresses, trimmed with black.

There is a very prevalent notion that red is a sort of mourning, and that red flowers or ribbons may be worn with black for slight mourning; but it is not in good taste. Only jet ornaments are permissible with crape; neither gold, silver, nor precious stones can be worn with it, neither can lace be in any way intermingled with it. This is a fact which seems to be very imperfectly comprehended. Society must be relinquished for 2 months, and it is in far better taste to avoid balls so long as crape is worn. For grandparents, the mourning is now only 6 months, 2 in silk and slight crape, 2 in black, and 2 in half-mourning.

For brothers and sisters the mourning, is now usually 3-4 months. It is correct to wear crape tolerably deep for 2 months, and plain black for 2. For an uncle or aunt 6 weeks is the orthodox time, and crape is not required. Black is generally worn the whole time, for the first month with jet, afterwards with gold, silver, pearls or diamonds; no coloured stones. For a great uncle or aunt 5 weeks, 2 in black, 3 half-mourning. For a first cousin, a month, generally the whole time in black. It is not usual to wear mourning at all for a second cousin, but if done 3 weeks are sufficient. Relations by marriage are mourned for precisely in the same degree as real ones: thus a wife wears exactly the same mourning for her husband’s relations as she would for her own. There are, however, exceptions. For instance, a lady would mourn for her uncle by marriage for 6 weeks if his wife (her aunt) were alive; but if she were dead the mourning for the uncle might be curtailed to a month. A few remarks may be made on “complimentary mourning.” For instance, when a man has married a second time, his second wife must wear slight mourning for 3 months on the death of his first wife’s parents, and for 6 weeks on the death of her brothers or sisters, if any intimacy has been kept up. This is not _de rigueur_ like real mourning for absolute relatives, but it is good taste, and usual in society. So also it is usual for a mother, whose married son or daughter loses a parent-in-law, to wear black--of course without crape--for one month, and half-mourning for another.

There are some additional points of etiquette connected with mourning. Black-edged envelopes and paper must be used. The width known as “extra broad” is the deepest that should ever be used, even by widows, the “double broad” being too much. Even for widows the simple “broad” is in better taste than either; “middle” is the proper width in mourning for parent or child; “narrow” for brothers or sisters; “Italian” for all other relatives. Visiting cards are only edged with black when crape is worn, so black-edged cards are not requisite for an uncle or aunt. The edges should be of the same width as that adopted for the paper. Cards returning thanks for the kind inquiries of those who have either called or sent to inquire, should not be sent out till the mourners feel equal to again receiving visitors; it is the accepted token of their being once more visible. Letters of condolence should be written on paper with a slight black edge, and offence should never be taken if they are left unanswered. Many people consider it correct to wear black on a first visit to a house of mourning, and though this is not absolutely necessary, it is certainly in better taste to avoid brilliant colours on such an occasion. (_The Queen_).

_Travelling Dress._--(_a_) The fewer dresses to take for positive travelling, the better. A black silk, fashionably made, is almost indispensable. This should be accompanied by one or two stylish muslin fichus and lace collarettes to wear on any dress occasion, as it is tiresome not to be able to put in an appearance for lack of suitable attire. It is a good plan to have this silk made with a bodice separate from the skirt; and a white washing silk polonaise will be found very useful. For travelling nothing is so suitable as a light serge, and dark blue is the best colour. This should be made with a plain skirt and polonaise, and have a jacket also to wear when required; the plainer the better. Also take an alpaca costume, or one of a light woollen stuff, and 2 dark blue linen ones; these are cool if the weather prove hot. But to ensure real comfort in travelling, the point is not the quantity of dress nor the kinds, but to have them in working and wearable condition. They should be arranged to loop up when required, and to fit well, &c. Thick kid gloves, and gloves with gauntlets, are necessary; and a waterproof petticoat, and one or two others. Always carry a waterproof dress in your wraps; perhaps a good ulster would best replace it; there never was so comfortable a garment for travelling. Plenty of rugs, shawls, and, above all, a fur boa are desirable. Bonnets are not necessary, and a felt hat is the best, with a good supply of veils, a gauze one particularly. Thick boots are essential, and for climbing, the new Hygeia boots of Marshall’s are real comforts. All the dresses taken should be nearly if not quite new; travelling soon reduces a half-worn dress to shabbiness. Paper collars and cuffs are invaluable; they are as cheap as getting them washed, save an infinity of trouble, and are sold in compact boxes taking little room. If it is possible, pack in portable luggage; it will be found a great comfort, for thereby many wearisome waiting hours are saved at foreign railway stations. A Gladstone bag, or one of the portable portmanteaus, holds almost all you require, with a travelling bag and wraps.

(_b_) For a rough travelling dress select a dark blue bège or thin serge, made with a short full plain skirt, and a rather long coat, shaped, but not tight fitting, so that, if required, a bodice could be worn underneath. For out-of-the-way travelling have the skirt put into a very deep band, to fit tightly over the hips, and the full gathers put into that; it will be found lighter, more becoming, and better for the appearance of both skirt and jacket. The band is of the same material. The bodice is made like a skirt, full and tolerably loose, with straight neckband and coat sleeves, over which are turned black lace, first tacked inside, turned over, and lightly tacked down. Have a scarf of the dark blue material, 2½ yds. long, and a little over ½ yd. wide, and use this to pass round the hips and loop behind over the skirt band when you stop for any length of time and have to take off your coat. This scarf gives at once a smart look to the otherwise plain skirt. It is also useful in passing round the neck in cold day or night travelling, and when not used rolls up into a small compass, and goes in the wraps. The dark blue coat and scarf look well over a stout holland plaited skirt (which is useful with a plaited bodice and band for hot days). A soft hat with prominent brim, and dark blue veil, should accompany the costume. Also have a thin tweed of some dark grey colour, either made in the same way, or with a plaited skirt, up to the hips, and a Norfolk jacket, with band or a coat or a polonaise. Always have pieces of black lace to tack into your travelling dress at throat and wrist, and take a white piece, for wearing at any smart place. If the band of the dress is high round the throat, no collar or lisse is necessary, only tack the lace inside, turn it over, and tack it again lightly to keep it down in place; the same at the wrists. Never take white petticoats for rough travelling; a striped coloured one is best. Take black lace neck scarf and gauze veils.