Chapter CD: AB. 3 aces 150 (3)

_Lawn Tennis Dress._--Short costumes made with bibs, Marguerite sleeves (viz., slashed at the elbow and shoulders), and the tunic _à la Laveuse_, appear to be a good style of dress for lawn tennis. A white serge made thus, with red trimmings, is very effective; or a light fawn tone, trimmed with bands of forget-me-nots, embroidered on a darker shade; or a rough holland dress with no tunic, but made with a yoke, bands, and large pockets, like an artist’s blouse, embroidered in outline.

_Dress for the Moors._--A thick homespun or tweed costume is the most serviceable for the moors. A leather petticoat is a comfort in bad weather. Doré has introduced a good costume for ladies who go in for sport, viz., gaiters and knickerbockers, buttoned at the knee, of the same stuff as the skirt, which is kilt plaited, and is capable of being made long or short. A long scarf can be easily arranged as a tunic, or be wrapped about the shoulders, and a jacket, waistcoat, and cap of the same stuff make it complete. An ulster with a cape and hood attached is comfortable, so is a Norfolk blouse. In Scotland, ladies wear in the daytime little else but these tailor-made suits. In the matter of boots, black leather Balmoral walking boots are best, with thick soles, and for bad weather, the gaiter boot, which comes half-way up the leg. Phipps and Barker, of Cadogan-house, Sloane Street, have brought out a water-tight Highland boot, to button or lace. The latter give support, are a good fit, and durable, keeping their shape well, and are light in weight--a great point where there is much walking. Marshall and Burt of Oxford Street, have besides a Balmoral boot with double or clump soles, some of porpoise hide, which will stand hard walking, and are excellent hygienic boots, preserving the foot in a natural position, with low heels and projecting soles.

_Dress for Walking Tour._--Procure from Marshall and Burt, 192, Oxford Street, a pair of Hygeia boots, which keep the feet warm and dry, do not unduly press, and are not heavy. They are waterproof, and should be well greased from time to time. Wear light woollen stockings, well soaped, and a thin tweed dress, plain skirt, and Norfolk blouse, with an outer jacket when required and an all-round mackintosh; a felt hat, bound with corded ribbon, a rosette at the side; loose gauntlet gloves. The mackintosh should be accompanied by a tarpaulin cover for the hat. An umbrella stick is a comfort.

_Dress for Yacht._--(_a_) A black lace or canvas and silk dress is sufficient. Liberty’s soft silks are invaluable, as they take up little room, and pack well. Take a dark pretty dressing gown for your bath in the morning, and avoid making an object of yourself then by going attired in a waterproof, with your head tied up in a shawl, as is the fashion of many ladies. (_b_) For a month’s cruise on a public yacht a lady who has been a similar voyage advises dress as follows: One light weight serge or cloth dress, one tweed ditto, a jacket that can be worn with both, an ulster, and plenty of wraps, a rug, a high short dress for dinner, a dress for excursions, one lace dress. A useful and nearly essential item is a short dark silk tea gown, which can be easily slipped on for dinner in rough weather; for instance, a black Merveilleux satin, trimmed with black lace and red ribbons. Other necessaries are pockets to nail against the cabin walls, plenty of Florida water or eau de Cologne. A large supply of under-linen, to enable you to be independent of the laundress during the hurried washing in port, is a great advantage.

_Outfits for Abroad. Australia._--A necessary outfit for a voyage to Australia is as follows, whether you go by the Cape or Canal, bearing in mind the southern seas are cold, and that 10 days by the Cape route sees you through the tropics. A regulation sized box is only allowed in the cabin, together with a bonnet box; but luggage marked “Wanted on the voyage” is brought up from the hold once a week. Old underclothing is best to wear, for when soiled it is dropped overboard, and saves washing. On arrival in a country where labour is dear, and also as the trunks from the hold are packed and unpacked in public, it is pleasanter to be rid of soiled linen. Take 7-8 weeks’ change of everything. The voyage is 6 weeks as a rule. Friends will supply you with old underclothing, if you ask. Take 4 doz. paper cuffs and collars; you will need a clean one a day. Buy a few dozen cheap pocket handkerchiefs to ensure having enough. No washing whatever is done on board. At Ceylon, the natives come out for clothes, but as steamers’ sailings are irregular, you may leave your belongings behind. Frilling becomes limp, but have a few dozen yards to freshen up a dress. Have warm flannels; a pair of mittens are a boon, keeping your hands cosy while your fingers are free to work. Tennis shoes are not elegant, but comfortable, and, when decks are slippery with wet, they are invaluable. Avoid high heels, for the ship’s rolling is apt to make walking unsafe. Have besides tennis shoes a pair of bath slippers, house shoes, a pair of strong walking shoes, and a pair of boots to land in. Remember a wave may sneak in at an open port and invade a cabin, so have bags for boots hung high, bags for brush, comb, scent, and all toilette requisites, and a few pouches for ribbons, cuffs, handkerchiefs, to avoid opening your box when you want any trifle; a hanging pincushion, and a few large linen bags to slip things into when rough, for it is objectionable to wake and find your clothes about the floor. The stewards act as housemaids, come in to shut ports, clean out cabins, carry water, so a lady should have things specially tidy. Have a hat capable of keeping firmly on the head in wind, a shady one for the tropics, though it really matters little, the decks being covered with awning, and keep your hat for landing strapped up high above invading waves in the cabin. A cabin’s furniture consists only of bunks, basin stands, mirrors, a shelf for the water bottle, each berth a rack, such as are in railway carriages, useful to hold books, workbox, &c.; but do not in calm weather pile it too high, for when you run into rolling seas of course the things slip out. You may be in a cabin with three other ladies; space is very limited, trunks are thrust below the bunks, and at most two pegs apiece allowed to hang dresses on; but for the bags mentioned, take a few thin tacks and put them up yourself. Only keep out the dress you wish to change and your dressing gown, for, if you hang out more, the cabin, even if you have the luck to have only one fellow-traveller in with you, gets stuffed up, and you blush for its untidiness when you learn the captain inspects every cabin at 11 A.M. daily.

Take a few pairs of old scissors, a few penny button hooks, and hang one of each up by the mirror to have handy, and keep the others stored in your cabin box for fear of losing or mislaying the two out for use. Take plenty of pins and thread and needles, and an extra pair or two of stay busks. To break one in mid ocean is a misfortune, unless you have others get-at-able to remedy the evil.

Take some cotton and also some woollen stockings, and do not forget a hot water bottle. The bed-room steward will readily get it filled, and, if it is cold, the bottle will be a great comfort. Have an ulster, a muffler, and a light shawl: the last to throw over your head, mantilla fashion, when sitting on deck during the delightful balmy evenings one enjoys on board. Have one warm dress, one cotton, either one grenadine made with high bodice, or an old silk for dinner. You hardly _dress_ for that meal, but change your gown to a slightly smarter one, and a little addition of lace to any old afternoon costume is sufficient: also take a few flowers to vary it. On the tray of your cabin box keep another smarter dress to land in and to wear on Sundays, for a little variety is grateful to all. Let the warm dress and your dinner one, if you are economical, be old, and keep your new toilettes for Australia. Dresses get stickily salt on board, lose their freshness, and, as most folks wear their second best when travelling by sea, as long as you are tidy, neat, and clean, you need not trouble about a little shabbiness. One print, even by the Red Sea route, is quite sufficient, unless you are a very careless person, and cannot keep a cotton dress clean for two weeks. Put a silk costume in at the top of “Wanted on voyage trunk” to get out easily, for perhaps you may wish to be extra smart at a ship concert; and have packed on the top of that box also a cotton, for fear of soiling the other, your relays of underlinen, a few extra books and music to relieve the monotony of the ones in your cabin. Do not take more than what I have advised, or you will hamper up what is your bedroom for the time, and make it a sore vexation to your steward and uncomfortable for yourself. When you see the officers in white flannel trousers, take out your cotton dress. When they put on white hats and duck suits, lay away your thick dress and your ulster and rug. When you see them back to navy-blue attire, put away your cotton dress and take to your warm clothes. You can rely on the official sense to guide you aright. Have a neat dressing gown, as you may have to pass the saloon on your way to a bath. Do not forget a supply of hairpins. You will find a thick dress, a print, an evening dress all-sufficient, with underclothes and collars for a week or two, hats, boots, &c. These will fill up your cabin box; but keep room for a few books, although there is a library on board. You can lend your stock, and vary the ship’s literature. Of course, take a piece of work, but you will not do much after the first week. When you know your fellow-passengers, you will help them all day at doing nothing, for sea voyaging is idle and frivolous. Take music if you play, and have a store in the “wanted” trunk, for your fellow-passengers will get tired of your songs if you have but 3 or 4. If you paint, have your materials handy to illuminate a concert programme, for you must try and be ready to assist amusements, unless you wish to be killed with _ennui_. Take some tea (though on the Orient line they supply it freely), and a teapot, and a few cups. You can get hot water from your steward, and do not need a kettle. Afternoon tea-parties on board are pleasant as on shore, and it is well to have the means of entertaining. If you are to be at sea on Christmas Day take some cards. Your neighbours will thank you when they find a greeting on their breakfast plates. Take some mimic note paper and envelopes for invitations to tea, &c., as all these little odds and ends to amuse others are sure to help you to enjoy seafaring.

Fancy balls are a common form of fun on Australian steamers; and, if you are taking a fancy dress out with you, put it in the “Wanted box,” and, if not, exert your ingenuity. Take some games with you in your cabin box--cards, chess, backgammon, dominoes. You can get them all in mimic sets.

If you are going to Australia to live, look well on the map as to your future colony, and, as you are near the equator, prepare for heat. Western and South Australia, Queensland, and New South Wales, are all very warm, especially during 3 months in the year; but also bear in mind in the bush servants are scarce, and do not have your cotton dresses too elaborate, for fear you may have to wash them yourself. There is winter too in Australia, and at first you think it like our May at home, but after a year you will suffer from the least cold keenly, so have some warm clothes, and over all the colonies it is dusty, therefore do not forget a dust cloak. Victoria is not quite so warm, nor Tasmania, as the northern colonies. The South Island of New Zealand is like home, with a vastly improved climate, and clothes for there identical with England. North Island is hotter, but never so warm as Australia. If you are going to live in a town you will need the same sort and amount of dress as in England. Clothes are not much dearer. Frilling, gloves, and small items are, however, more expensive, and bear in mind people in the antipodes are very smartly dressed, so have a few well-made things in preference to many dowdy ones. If you are to live on a station, or in the bush, as the country is called, you will not need evening or garden-party dresses--only a couple of cotton dresses, a grey summer bège, a warm dress of tweed, a commoner one for the morning and a better one for afternoon wear, a habit, ulster, dust cloak, garden hat, and gloves; a hat to drive to the township in, and one thoroughly good costume, bonnet, and mantle, all well-made of some handsome material for a marriage, a race meeting, the show, or any such event as comes to relieve bush life’s quiet routine.

India.--To have a reasonable outfit, and often renewed, is far better economy, and is also much pleasanter, than taking very many things at once, as in this way one does not so soon tire of one’s wardrobe; and new things can be had out from home of a later fashion. For a life to be spent in the plains of India, 2 doz. of each article of underlinen would be an ample allowance; while for those who can go to the cool climate of the hills 1½ doz. would be quite sufficient. A good supply of dark-coloured finest cotton stockings (say 1½ doz.), and ½ doz. black spun silk stockings, should also be taken. ½ doz. fine flannel jerseys (flannel is by far the safest wear in India) and 4 flannel petticoats would be a very fair quantity, and 1 doz. white petticoats, with one or two pretty-coloured warmer ones for the cold weather, will always be found quite sufficient. Much embroidery or lace on one’s clothes is a great mistake, as the “dhobees” (washermen) beat them to pieces in no time. Also ½ doz. high petticoat bodices, and ½ doz. embroidered low ones to wear with thin dresses. Avoid having the petticoat skirt and bodice in one, as very often in the hot weather one is glad to change the bodice when it is quite unnecessary to change the skirt also; so little walking is done in the hot weather that the skirt remains clean for some time, and, as the “dhobees” beat one’s clothes most unmercifully in washing them, it is a consideration not to have them undergo this process oftener than is necessary. Collars, cuffs, ties, neck ribbons, pocket handkerchiefs, should be taken _ad lib._, also one or two pretty fichus, with materials to make others from them, as these things are very expensive in India, and do not spoil by keeping if put carefully away and looked at occasionally. It is much better to have boots and shoes out as you require them. The best plan is to have 2 pairs pretty walking boots and 3 or 4 of house shoes out at a time. The Chinamen in Calcutta can copy boots and shoes remarkably well, and even up-country “maachees” (shoemakers) can make them up pretty well from a pattern; but the leather never lasts long, nor do they keep in shape. In the hills it is absolutely necessary to have good strong English walking boots, with very thick soles and moderately high heels--not very high ones, as they are apt to make one fall, and the sharp stones and rocky ground grind them down at once. To have a number of dresses is a great mistake; a handsome, well-made black silk is indispensable, and the most useful thing a lady can have; this, with a pretty visiting dress and (say) 2 cashmeres, or some such material, is ample for the cold weather. These, with the exception of the visiting dress, should be a walking length. A warm coat is also necessary, as it is very cold for about 2½ months; a thick “burruk” coat, trimmed with fur, is not at all too much, and very comfortable wear; also a lighter coat for the hills, or when the mornings and evenings are chilly. A well-fitting ulster is a necessity for the hills, and if waterproof so much the better, but it should be made of a light material. Of course, some people go out much more than others do; but a handsome dinner dress (a black satin, with jet trimmings, &c., is very useful), one for small parties, and 2 pretty ball dresses, will be ample for any one. Of course to those who live in Calcutta or Simla more dresses would be necessary, as there is so much more gaiety there; but in up-country stations this is a very good allowance, and more than the quantity named would only get old-fashioned and be very much in the way. Shoes to match, and silk stockings also, should be taken. Some sort of opera cloak is necessary; a black cashmere dolman, lined with thin silk, is the nicest, and, if sent to Delhi to be embroidered in gold or silver thread, or in coloured silk in what is called the “enamel” or the “peacock” pattern (both very handsome), it would be lovely, always look well, and last for years. This embroidery is not very expensive. Silk gloves for India are the nicest things that were ever invented, as they do not spot and spoil as kid, nor get hard in rainy weather; it is best to have a good many pairs, as they wear out so soon, and they are very dear out here. Bonnets are very seldom worn, but some ladies like them for visiting and for going to church. Hats are much pleasanter wear, and, as a rule, more becoming; 2 pretty hats are ample, with a plainer one with no feathers (except perhaps a wing or a hackle one) for dull rainy days, or for travelling. Hats and bonnets can so easily come out by P. and O. parcel post that it is much nicer to have a few, and have them yearly, when one gets the latest fashions. A well-made habit should of course be taken; a good native “dirzi” (tailor) could easily copy in cloth or any thinner material for daily wear, as habits do not last long, and are such expensive things to buy. For the hills, the fewer clothes one has the better, as fish, insects, and the damp destroy them; and in the rains nothing very good should be worn. A pretty cashmere dress is by far the most useful. For hot weather in the plains, it is nice to have a foulard silk or Cora silk dress for the rains, as muslins and such things get very limp there and look untidy. Coloured prints and muslins are very pretty and tempting, but they are not the best wear for India, as, with the constant washing and the heat, they soon lose their colours and get washed out, and look far from fresh and nice; thin white materials (not piqués and such stuffs, which are the hottest wear possible), prettily made, with coloured ribbon bows down the front, &c., are the nicest. In the house, pretty morning dresses made like tea gowns are by far the most comfortable wear; it is a good plan to bring one pretty, nicely fitting one out, and also to bring the materials and trimmings for ½ doz. others, as then the native tailors can copy them beautifully at a small cost. These dresses, worn with different coloured ribbons, always look nice for the house, and are so much cooler than tight-fitting dresses. Pretty self-coloured muslins, worn over batiste slips of the same colour, are always nice for garden parties and visiting; and now hats are so often made of the same material as the dress, it is easy to have a variety of them, and they always look dressy, and are very light. Cottons, tapes, needles, buttons of all sorts, elastic, ribbon, wire, &c., should be taken in large quantities; but keep them under lock and key, or they disappear most mysteriously. A good supply of paper and envelopes also is necessary. Rooms in India are so bare and colourless, that one wants many bright little things to make them look home-like and cheerful. No one would regret bringing out some pretty inexpensive chromo-lithographs in nice frames; they need not all be framed (though all should be mounted), as the “mistris” (carpenters) can make the Oxford frames very neatly and cheaply from a pattern, and glasses can also be got out here in some places; these always make the room look pretty, and hide the walls which, not being papered, but only coloured plaster, are by no means the prettiest part of an Indian drawing room. Also bring a good many yards of coloured cretonne; black cretonne, with gold-coloured pattern on it, is nice, and does not fade as some of those with light grounds do; but it is well to include a few yards of different patterns of cretonne, as it is pretty to have the chairs not all the same, and makes the room look brighter. Over-mantels would be charming and uncommon; brackets for the walls, and pretty china wall baskets, also wall mirrors, would be found great additions to the look of a room, and would always be eagerly bought up if one was leaving a station, as it is almost impossible to get such things, except perhaps in Calcutta, where they are fearfully dear. By all means take glass and crockery out; it is twice or three times as expensive in Calcutta as at home; and if one trusts to station auctions, one is sure to get imperfect and shabby sets of things, and very often has to pay heavily for them. Electro-plate must, of course, be taken, also knives; and any pretty little ornament one can find for the table is nice, and makes it look bright. A few pudding moulds and any small things of this kind are very useful, and not always to be picked up up-country. Window curtains should certainly be taken, especially écru-coloured ones, but if white are preferred, it is a good plan to have several pieces of pretty pale-coloured cheap tarlatans to line them with; this always looks nice. Curtain cords should also be taken; some dozens of pretty brass-headed nails would be found very useful; also some yards of different coloured Utrecht velvets to cover small tables, and fringe to edge them with; by going to Maple’s or some such shop during the selling-off time remnants of these things can be got at a very moderate price. A few pretty-coloured tablecloths should certainly be included. For those who care for fancy work, all the materials must be taken, as it is not always easy or possible to get them in India, and even when one can they are very expensive. Table linen, &c., must be taken, of course; at the various jails in India, and also in Dinapore, the natives make very fair towels, bath sheets, tablecloths, &c., but they are not nearly as nice as English ones, nor do they last as long. As for having boxes out by steamer, there seems to be quite a risk in doing so now-a-days; it may be found that on arrival the tin has been neatly cut open, everything taken out, and the boxes filled up with straw and bricks, to make them weigh heavily. It is always most difficult to get any compensation from the ship’s company, and is never done without endless correspondence and delay. It is safer to have things out by P. and O. parcel post, but they allow only small boxes, so but few things can come at a time; these parcels are under the charge of Government from the time they leave till the time they are delivered, so they are perfectly safe.

New Zealand.--In a lonely country district much toilette would not be required. In or near any of the principal towns there is a good deal of gaiety--small and large dances--constant tennis parties for about 7 months in the year, small dinners, luncheons, &c. Any clothes taken should be well made and fashionable, as very many of the ladies there now get their things from England every 6 weeks or so, from the best dressmakers in London. If a lady intends riding, a well cut habit should be taken. Very heavy furs, such as a sealskin jacket, are hardly required in the north island, down south it might be useful. More summer clothes than winter ones are wanted, as the summer season lasts long, although rarely if ever so hot as in London sometimes. It will be well to remember that life in New Zealand, except in one or two remote places, is simply English life, with a bright blue sky and pleasant climate. New Zealand is as large as Great Britain, so of course the climate varies with the situation, warmer in the north island, cooler in the south, although the extremes of heat and cold are not nearly so great as from North of Scotland to the South of England. Of course the outfit for the voyage depends much on the proposed route, whether across America, or by the Suez line, or by direct steam, New Zealand line (easiest and most comfortable of all), or by sailing vessel, a route avoided now by all except those ordered a long sea voyage for their health. In almost any case there is both hot and cold weather. Old underlinen that you can throw away is best, as the sea air ruins good linen. A little change for dinner is needed, but elaborate dressing on the voyage is quite out of taste.

North America.--The outfit a young man requires depends upon the occupation he intends taking up. If he looks forward to employment in a town, he should take a supply of good clothing, such as a gentleman would wear at home, adding 2 or 3 quite cool suits for summer wear. All gentlemen’s clothing, from hats to boots, from coats to vests, is inferior and very costly. Really superior cloth materials are not to be got at any price, nor are flannel shirts that will wash well. If the young man is going to a stock ranche, one good suit for winter, and another for summer, to wear on an occasional visit to town, are sufficient: he will never use them on the ranche, and stockmen’s clothing here is reasonable in price, and made to stand such wear and tear as no one in England has any idea of, even with school-boys. A close fitting, very warm jacket, or extremely thick warm kind of jersey to go on, either of them, under stockman’s jacket, would be invaluable. The rapid fall of temperature, in a few hours, from 70°-80° down to below freezing, accompanied by piercing wind, causes the cold to be felt intensely. The country has greatly changed during the past few years. In organised counties, carrying concealed firearms is prohibited by law. Many do carry them, but they are always liable to have them seized, and to be fined $25 in addition. Some stockmen on the ranges carry six-shooters and Winchester rifles, which are much better for their need than any English rifle. Ammunition for most of the English rifles is not to be obtained. The American six-shooter is much cheaper, and more suitable than the English. For steady men, careful not to get mixed up with gamblers and the rowdy element, Texas is as safe as England. Those who do associate with such classes hold their lives at risk.

West Indies.--(_a_) The best time for going out to the West Indies is November, after the rains; our winter is their cool season; the hot weather begins towards the end of April. For the voyage take for the first half of the time a serge dress, warm hat, cloaks, wraps, indiarubber-soled shoes. No one dresses for dinner on board the mail packets. The cabins are small. A bag with many pockets to hold all the odds and ends, is a comfort. An overland trunk to go under the berth, a tin bonnet box, and a travelling bag for the cabin, and tin-lined or tin cases for the hold. For the latter half of the voyage, you want a large shady hat and dark cotton dresses, glauntlet gloves, and gauze veils. It is very hot in Kingston; you would wear the same as in summer here, not linen collars or cuffs, lace, which washes easily is best; flannel underclothing, large boots, shoes, and gloves, and a good-sized parasol. People who travel in the island find a solar topee a comfort. A riding habit of thin cloth is necessary, and a low hat, no one wears a high one. A large loose skirt to wear over your dress on the hills is a comfort when you go out to dinner, which you must do on horseback; a low black dress is desirable. There are several parties in the course of the year, lawn-tennis parties, &c.

(_b_) Any old underlinen answers for the voyage, as one generally throws it overboard, as no washing can be done. Take to wear in Kingston nothing but prints and muslins, and a grey cashmere would be very useful. For large dinners have a couple of pretty satin dresses made, with lace sleeves; and for small dinners some cream muslins, trimmed with lace. As there are a good many balls, 3 dresses would be necessary. One bonnet would be sufficient, but you would want several hats (as light as possible). A white cashmere for tennis is always serviceable, and a habit of light material (in dark green or blue) indispensable. Stockings should be all thin and cool, and all underclothes made of linen or the finest calico. Gloves are easily spotted, so only take out gants de Suede and silk ones. The heat of Kingston during the day is very great, but the evenings are cool and enjoyable; society good (nearly all military and naval) and several old Jamaica families.

_Fancy Dress._--The following selection of fancy dresses comprises most of the picturesque national costumes of Europe and the East, adapted for wear at Fancy Dress Balls, &c. There is a striking and distinctive character about the majority of these which places them far above the ordinary type of fancy dress, and it is a great pity they are not more generally adopted.

No. 1. Saxon Bride and Bridegroom of Transylvania.

No. 2. An Austrian woman.

Nos. 3 and 4. Dutch Ladies of the 17th century.

No. 5. Fisherwoman of the Zuider-zee. The petticoat or skirt is made of coarse brown or dark blue frieze, and over it is worn an apron, sometimes red, sometimes green, with a bib of silk or linen, embroidered or interwoven with a large flower pattern, and pinned to the front of a sleeveless jacket, made of the same material as the petticoat, and fastened at the back with hooks and eyes. The skirt is of striped calico, visible in our illustration round the neck and from the shoulders to the elbows, from where to the wrist it is covered with a sort of over-sleeve of frieze. A close-fitting cap of coloured satin or linen encases the hair, as loose tresses are not allowed to float in the wind. This cap is ornamented over the forehead with a piece of gold or silver tinsel cloth.

No. 6. A Bulgarian woman.

No. 7. An Italian girl. The Italian woman chooses white for the principal colour of her dress, knowing from long experience that this is the most suitable colour for lessening the effects of the sun. For the same reason, she has been taught from early youth how to compose fanciful and becoming headdresses from linen scarves. An apron striped in many colours, and a bright border to her skirt, serve the purpose of producing the gay contrast she likes. Her sister in the East, where the climate is less genial and the temperature moves within extremes, needs heavier materials for her costume, and of darker shades, to bring it into accordance with the surroundings. To break the sombre tints, she employs embroidered stripes and squares on her silk bodices and linen under-skirts, as well as on her apron and over-skirt, both made of heavy woollen materials. A bright-coloured ribbon, a flower, or an adroitly draped scarf form her headdress. The effect south and east is the same--picturesqueness and absence of conventionality, more or less the two chief attractions of all national costumes.

_W. J. WELCH. PHOTO GRAVEUR 25 WELLINGTON S^T. STRAND, W.C._]

_W. J. WELCH. PHOTO GRAVEUR 25 WELLINGTON S^T. STRAND, W.C._]

No. 8. A Jewish Lady, of Tetuawn. The dress is a fanciful combination of velvet, gold braid, and embroidery, with the gauze-like muslin of the Orient, rich in colours, and adorned with a gorgeous silk sash round the waist.

No. 9. Peasant maiden, of Donaueschingen, Black Forest. The bodice is made of black silk, festooned across the chest by blue or violet lace. The little cap, sitting close to the head, has a crescent-shaped opening at the back, through which the long tresses of hair escape. Two long ends of black ribbon fastened together complete the headdress. Short full snow-white chemise sleeves leave the arm bare in summer time. The petticoat is black and the stockings red.

No. 10. A Servian peasant woman.

No. 11. A Bulgarian peasant woman. The unmarried girls ornament their hair with wreaths of flowers, and on festive occasions wear rows of gold coins round their necks. As protection against the sun, the younger women wear on the head a white embroidered scarf, picturesquely draped. Married women deck themselves with tawdry bead jewellery, and wear a belt with large copper gilt buckles round their waist.

No. 12. A Peasant maiden of the Steinlach Valley. On the head is set a flat black cap, decked with floating ribbons. The dress consists of a stuff petticoat and scarlet bodice, the petticoat being made out of light or dark blue cloth, generally bordered with green bands, relieved by gold edging. The bodice is embroidered with gold down the back, and open in front over a handkerchief covering the bosom. The bodice is kept in place by cords, ribbons, or silver chains laced backwards and forwards. A white apron (the matrons wear black), made of fine linen, embroidered at the bottom, completes the dress. A garnet necklace encircles the throat. The full petticoat reaches a little below the knee, showing the feet in buckled shoes. On Sundays a girdle of silk or velvet embellished with metal bosses is worn round the waist.

No. 13. Wallachian girl. The costume consists of a long linen chemise, elaborately embroidered on the shoulders and sleeves with black, red, or blue wools, lace ruffles hanging from the wrists. Round the waist the chemise is held together by a bright coloured scarf, to which a front and a back apron, of a striped woollen material, are attached, leaving the chemise visible at both sides. The ordinary headdress is a white or red handkerchief thrown over the hair and tied in a knot under the chin; but on Sundays a smart little cap, embroidered with gold or silver tinsel, covers, fez-like, the beautiful hair, which is carefully parted in the middle and adorned with bunches of flowers, gold-headed hairpins, and strings of coin jewellery. A necklace of coins is an essential feature.

No. 14. Chinaman. Flowered silk robe; blue jacket; red hat.

No. 15. Dame Trot. Short quilted skirt; tunic and bodice red, with laced stomacher; tall black hat.

No. 16. Little Grannies. Grey cashmere dresses; white caps.

No. 17. Russian Peasant. White dress trimmed with red embroidered bands and Russian lace; long white embroidered apron; beads round neck; gold embroidered Kroshnick headdress of black velvet.

No. 18. Tyrolean peasant. Full black knee breeches; grey silk stockings; red blouse, with bretelles embroidered in yellow and gold; small bouquet at the waist; white Surah shirt, with wide sleeves; black silk necktie; black felt hat, with black and flame-coloured feathers.

No. 19. Normandy peasant. Short red skirt, striped with black; white mousseline de laine tunic, spotted with blue; low pointed bodice, laced with silver; muslin fichu, trimmed with lace; sleeves to match fichu; white muslin headdress, trimmed with lace.

No. 20. Polish costume. Pink satin dress, trimmed with white fur; the plastron is crossed with white brandebourgs, which are continued the entire length; white silk stockings; pink satin shoes.

_W. J. WELCH. 25 WELLINGTON S^T. STRAND._]

_W. J. WELCH. PHOTO GRAVEUR. 25 WELLINGTON S^T. STRAND._]

_W. J. WELCH. PHOTO GRAVEUR. 25 WELLINGTON S^T. STRAND._]

No. 21. Normandy youth. Dark-blue satin knee breeches; silk stockings of the same colour, with red garters; white lawn skirt, with full sleeves; blue silk necktie; red satin coat opening over the skirt, and ornamented with small red brandebourgs; silk cap and cravat.

No. 22. Neapolitan girl. Pink silk skirt, with a claret velvet hem; white silk apron, striped with many colours; claret velvet bodice, with pink revers opening over a waistcoat to match, crossed with gold bands; long sleeves; claret revers, with gold braid; coral necklace; headdress to match the apron, and fastened with gold pins; tambourine in the right hand.

No. 23. Fop, reign of Henry VI. Long robe of blue cloth, with long hanging sleeves, festooned in shape of leaves; double band and pouch of yellow cloth; large hat of fur, trimmed with a fan of yellow cloth; grey worsted stockings. (Wingfield.)

No. 24. Lady, reign of Henry VI. Particoloured costume of pink and white Italian satin sheeting, trimmed with deep border of ermine on skirt; headdress of same material, with long flowing veil of Indian muslin. (Wingfield.)

No. 25. Page, reign of Charles II. Vest of myrtle-green velvet; blouse bodice, and sleeves in cambric; fringes of gold ribbon loops; skirt in amber silk; lace cravat bow; embroidered satin shoulder sash; green hat with amber plumes.

No. 26. Page, reign of Henry IV. Doublet of black satin trimmed with gold galloon; trunks of figured cherry-coloured silk; black velvet cloak with gold embroidery; black silk tights; velvet cap with turreted brim, and brooch of paste diamonds.

No. 27. Judge. Loose gown in black reps or Ottoman silk; cambric band, and wig. Alpaca may be substituted, if preferred, for the gown; high black cap.

No. 28. Friesland girl. The bust is encased in two bodices, one of cloth with sleeves of gaily coloured silk, and over it another tightly laced with a red or yellow silk ribbon of interminable length. The lacing tag, made of gold or silver, is worn as an ornament on the left side of the bust by girls, and on the right side by married women. A bright coloured silk wrapper covers the upper part of the body, and ends round the throat in a narrow black braid on which is a small red strip, placed on the left by girls and on the right by married women. For outdoor toilet a short jacket with sleeves, and wide open in front, is worn over the two bodices. This jacket is of printed calico for ordinary wear, but embroidered with gold and silver for festive occasions. The most peculiar feature of the costume is the headdress, made of striped calico or fine linen, and supported in its helmet-like shape by starch alone. Two petticoats are worn, one of crimson cloth, with a broad border of black velvet, reaches to the ankles, just showing the broad-toed velvet slippers; the other, of black woollen material, encircles the waist, in numberless plaits, and leaves the velvet border of the first one free. A silk apron completes the Sunday attire. A chatelaine is usually added.

No. 29. Dutch girl, from the Island of Mark.

No. 30. Turkish girl.

No. 31. A woman of Albania.

No. 32. A woman of North Holland.

No. 33. Jane Seymour coif.

No. 34. Charity girl. Black stuff gown; white linen cap; apron; red badge on left side of bodice.

No. 35. Moorish girl. Black velvet bodice and skirt, trimmed with white galloon; apron in muslin, enriched with gold thread and variegated silks; girdle of geranium-red cord with tassels; red satin under sleeves; rows of large beads fall on the muslin chemisette; cap and veil in toile Colbert, embroidered and also edged by a fringe of gold beads.

No. 36. Lady of Tangiers.

No. 37. Servian youth. Green woollen trousers, with bands and golden spangles; blue velvet jacket, trimmed with golden embroidery and grelots; vest in red and blue striped material bound by embroidery; red cashmere scarf, with revolvers passed through; red fez.

_W. J. WELCH. PHOTO GRAVEUR. 25 WELLINGTON S^T. STRAND._]

_W. J. WELCH, PHOTO GRAVEUR. 25 WELLINGTON S^T. STRAND._]

_W. J. WELCH. PHOTO GRAVEUR. 25 WELLINGTON S^T. STRAND. W.C._]

No. 38. Tellemarken, Norway.

No. 39. Mecklenburg.

Nos. 40, 41. Brittany.

No. 42. Welsh. Among the different costumes of Wales, there are few more picturesque and elegant than that of Gwent and Morganwg, which ancient district includes the present counties of Monmouth and Glamorgan; and, although now rarely seen, it is by no means extinct. The hat is beaver, which, although so called, was formerly made of the skin of the hare. The brim is sufficiently wide to cast a shade over the eyes and brow, which artists well know is so peculiarly becoming to the face; and from the hat being set on the head to incline downward (higher behind than before), this artistic effect is still more striking. The genuine Welsh cap has a border either of muslin, with narrow edging of lace, or for special dress, the whole border of good thread lace; and without a personal trial few could believe how the combination of such a hat and cap beautifies plain women, and still further improves the beautiful. The handkerchief is worn with the point behind to the waist, which is of natural and moderate length. The handkerchiefs are, for general use, blue and white, or pink and white, cross-barred, with a border, are worn double, and tightly pinned across the chest; for special occasions they are often scarlet and yellow, or blue and white. The gown has sleeves to the elbow, and for elderly persons often turns the elbow. The bodice is tight and low, and fastens in front, being pinned across under the handkerchief, the gown being open before. The skirt (if skirt it can be called) does not extend farther than an inch or two beyond the hips; it is very full behind, and has loops along the edge through which a tape is run, which draws it together, and is tied to another loop which is fixed at the back, in the centre of the waist in the inside. This part of the gown is not much longer than the petticoat, so that when it is drawn up only an inch of the petticoat is seen below, and sometimes it is even with the petticoat. The apron is of black and white or blue and white check--the Welsh national checks being totally different from the Scotch plaids, the only similarity consisting in both having cross bars. The strings of the apron are often passed through a loop which is attached underneath the point of the handkerchief, crossed behind and tied before, not being too wide to allow the coloured petticoat to be seen at the sides. The petticoat is moderately full, and short enough to show the ankles. The shoes, black leather with strong soles, used to be invariably set off with large buckles, which nearly covered the front of the instep; the shoes being high and fastened by the tongue of the buckle, but those worn without buckles had small leather ears on each side, with a hole in each, which tied over the instep. In cold weather, or when required, long sleeves of the same material as the gown, or coloured printed calico, or of knitted black wool, are added, or long-armed black mittens; and a cloak with a hood is thrown on. In the present instance the gown is orange and black, the petticoat violet and black. The present costume admits of many other varieties of ancient national Welsh patterns, both in colour and design, still made in the same district.

No. 43. Mecklenburg.

No. 44. Norway, Sætersdal. The men wear striped trousers, reaching almost to the throat, and showing a white shirt under the arms. A sort of very short jacket covers the shoulders, and closes across the upper part of the chest. To the uninitiated, it appears quite a riddle how they put this peculiar garment on. The jacket worn by the women is of equally curious cut. It opens horizontally across the bust to show a linen bodice, which again appears as a large stand-up collar on the throat. The hair is gathered into a net decorated with ribbons, which entirely hides it, and falls to the shoulders. With their short petticoats and jackets, braided with galloons and studded with silver buttons, a bright-coloured wrapper fastened to one shoulder, and draped round the waist, a Sætersdal girl presents a picturesque appearance.

_W. J. WELCH. 25 WELLINGTON S^T. STRAND. PHOTO GRAVEUR._]

_W. J. WELCH. PHOTO GRAVEUR. WELLINGTON S^T. STRAND._]

No. 45. French Lady, Reign of Henry I.

No. 46. Lady, Reign of James I.

No. 47. Italian Gentleman, XVI. Century.

No. 48. Maidservant, Reign of Henry VI. Costume in two shades of grey merino; large apron, handkerchief, and headdress with long flowing veil in fine white nainsook. (Wingfield.)

No. 49. Gentleman, Reign of Henry VI. Shirt of printed velvet, with tabbard of white Italian satin sheeting, bordered with black fur; worsted tights; hat of printed velvet, with long drapery of soft silk; bag pouch. (Wingfield.)

No. 50. Lady, from Saloniki, Macedonia.

No. 51. Girl from Ploaré, Brittany. The petticoat or skirt is generally of white flannel, bordered with a scarlet band above the hem, made very full and short to show the buckles on the shoes. The body or jacket consists of scarlet, blue, violet, or red cloth, cut tight to the shape, open in front, the sleeves long, turned up at the wrist with a deep cuff, and encircled with a sort of arm-band above the elbows. The facings of the bodice, cuffs, and arm-hands are trimmed with a braiding composed of black velvet ribbons embroidered with coloured worsteds. The apron is either a deep mulberry or orange colour, and fastened with an ornamental sash tied in a bow at the side, with a separate pocket for the knitting ball. The chemise, fastened in front with a brooch made of coloured bugles and glass beads, terminates in a kind of plaited ruff, and a small ebony crucifix is suspended by a velvet band from the neck. The headdresses vary in shape. The women of Bignan wear close fitting caps of white linen, and cover them with a sort of conical flap-cap, made of a coarse starched cloth, like brown holland, which serves the purpose of a bonnet.

No. 52. Flemish costume at the time of Rubens.

No. 53. Caucasian Girl. The costume consists of a caftan made of bright coloured silk or satin, buttoned in front, and reaching to the knees, with a belt, richly embroidered in gold and silver round the waist. In winter an overcoat of heavier material, without sleeves or collar, open in front and falling down to the ankles, is worn over the caftan. Very picturesque is the headdress or cap of conical shape, gorgeously embroidered with gold and silver tinsel. A long white veil descends from the point of the cap nearly down to the heels. This veil is likewise worn without the cap, fastened to a kind of diadem in the forehead. From underneath the cap or veil issue long plaited tresses of black hair studded with coin jewellery. Elegant bottines of morocco leather, tightly fitting to the leg, like stockings, and dainty slippers, complete the outfit.

No. 54. Woman of Bethlehem. A dark blue dress contrasts well with the scarlet tunic worn over it in graceful folds, and with the head covering of spotless linen, which frames in the face, just leaving room for the display of Oriental coin jewellery on the forehead and round the neck.

No. 55. Lady of Eleusis, Greece. A maize-coloured silk veil, picturesquely draped, covers head and shoulders, just to show two strings of gold coins on the lovely forehead of the oval face. A long white robe, girded round the waist with an embroidered belt or sash, envelopes the figure like the ancient chiton. The waist is covered with chains of coin jewellery, and an apron of violet silk, striped in two tints, is attached to the belt. But the great _pièce de résistance_ of this becoming costume is a gorgeously ornamented jacket, likewise of white material, with semi-tight sleeves, embroidered, as our illustration indicates, in fanciful patterns, with dark red or black silk interspersed with gold and silver threads. Similar costumes to that of the women of Eleusis, and only slightly differing in cut and colours, are worn in all the northern provinces of the kingdom. In Athens a bright red scarf girds the waist, and silk of the same colour is used for the embroideries on jacket and petticoat. In Bœotia a green veil is worn, and the ornamental stitchery executed in a variety of colours, red prevailing.

_W. J. WELCH. PHOTO GRAVEUR. 25 WELLINGTON S^T. STRAND. W.C._]

_W. J. WELCH. PHOTO GRAVEUR. WELLINGTON S^T. STRAND. W.C._]

No. 56. Spanish Girl. The short petticoat is generally of bright yellow, rose coloured, or green silk, trimmed either with bands of black velvet or with a deep flounce of black blonde. The tight-fitting jacket is made of black velvet, trimmed with gold or silver lace, and buttons to match. The material for the apron and for the neckerchief consists of muslin with a border of white blonde. The hair forms a plaited chignon on the back of the head, and is adorned with the high Spanish comb and with hair pins, with tops of gold or silver filigree.

No. 57. Spanish Toreador. Royal blue plush or velvet jacket and trousers, richly embroidered in silver and ornamented with silver fringe. Red silk sash. Red cloak and pink stockings. Blue plush cap. Heavy silver epaulettes and embroidered shirt.

No. 58. Modern Greek. In the picturesque national costume worn in modern Greece hardly any trace can be found of the ancient dress. The richly embroidered cloth jacket, worn over skirt and bodice of ordinary cut, cannot be compared with the ancient chitonion, although it serves the same purpose. For fancy balls this costume is most becoming, if the proper combination of colours, quite optional, even in Greece, is selected.

No. 59. French Farmer’s Wife, time of Henri III. The close-fitting pointed bodice, of a red material, is laced in front over a band of green silk; the square habit shirt is of fine linen, terminate in a lace-edged lawn ruff corresponding in colour with the long white sleeves; and the ample apron covers the front of a dark-coloured petticoat. The tablier headdress, worn over the hair combed back, is made of a double piece of black satin, stiffened by a stout lining.

SUPPLEMENTARY LITERATURE.

Bernard Roth: ‘Dress: its Sanitary Aspects, a paper read before the Brighton Social Union; with additions and 8 full-page illustrations.’ London. 1880. 2_s._

T. Frederick Pearse: ‘Modern Dress and Clothing in its relation to Health and Disease.’ London. 1882. 2_s._

Henry Carr: ‘Poisons in Domestic Fabrics.’ London. 1880. 6_d._

Ardern Holt: ‘Fancy Dresses described; or what to wear at Fancy Balls.’ London. 1882. 5_s._

_THE NURSERY._