Chapter D: E S C R I B’d (1)

CHAP. I.

_Of the Situation of_ Stonehenge _in general. That it was a
temple of the Druids, of the patriarchal mode, who were a most
ancient oriental colony. In later times, the_ Belgæ _from the
continent, conquer’d this country from them. Whence these
stones were brought? Of their nature, magnitude, weight. Of
the measure of the Druids, the ancient_ Hebrew _cubit, and its
proportion to the_ English _foot._

The _Wiltshire_ downs, or _Salisbury_ plain, (as commonly call’d) for extent and beauty, is, without controversy, one of the most delightful parts of _Britain_. But of late years great encroachments have been made upon it by the plough, which threatens the ruin of this fine champain, and of all the monuments of antiquity thereabouts. Monuments, we can scarce say, whether more wonderful in themselves, more observ’d, or less understood! among them, _Stonehenge_ has been eminent from the remotest ages, tho’ ’tis not the greatest, most considerable, or most ancient. But ’tis my intent to begin my discourse from it, because the latest, and from thence proceed upwards in our inquiries, about the times and authors of these stupendous works, the temples of the Druids in our Island: for I cannot doubt that _Stonehenge_ was such. The idea we conceive of the distance of time, when these kind of works were made, cannot be ill-form’d, if we consider, that the utmost accounts of ’em we have in writing, are from the _Britons_, the remains of the people who lived here, at the time of the _Roman_ invasion. This is mention’d in some manuscripts of _Ninnius_ before the _Saxons_ and _Danes_ came over. And the oldest _Britons_ speak of this only by tradition, far above all memorial. They wonder’d at _Stonehenge_ then, and were as far to seek about the founders and intent of it, as we now. They have recourse to magic, as is usual, when they would account for any thing seemingly so much above human power, to accomplish. They tell us, these stones of immense bulk were brought from a plain, in the middle of _Ireland_, and the like. Which reports give us only no obscure hint of their true authors, the Druids, who were fam’d for magic, and were driven last into _Ireland_, in the time of the _Romans_. There they built such like works again, or their brethren had built before; till Christianity, to which the greatest and purest part of their own doctrine was akin, soon put an end to their polity, which the _Roman_ arms could not do. And they embrac’d that religion, to which their own opinions and rites had so direct a tendency. This is the sentiment of _Origen_ on _Ezekiel_ iv. And ’tis sufficiently evident, if we consider, that the first planters of Christianity in _Ireland_, immediately converted the whole island, without so much as the blood of one martyr. Nay, the Druids themselves, at that time the only national priests, embraced it readily, and some of them were very zealous preachers of it, and effectual converters of others. For instance, the great _Columbanus_ himself was a Druid: the apostle of _Ireland_, _Cornwall_, _&c._ We need not be surpriz’d at this, when we assert, that there is very much reason to believe, these famous philosophic priests came hither, as a _Phœnician_ colony, in the very earliest times, even as soon as _Tyre_ was founded: during the life of the patriarch _Abraham_, or very soon after. Therefore they brought along with them the patriarchal religion, which was so extremely like Christianity, that in effect it differ’d from it only in this; they believed in a Messiah who was to come into the world, as we believe in him that is come. Further, they came from that very country where _Abraham_ liv’d, his sons and grandsons; a family God almighty had separated from the gross of mankind, to stifle the seeds of idolatry; a mighty prince, and preacher of righteousness. And tho’ the memoirs of our Druids are extremely short, yet we can very evidently discover from them, that the Druids were of _Abraham_’s religion intirely, at least in the earliest times, and worshipp’d the supreme Being in the same manner as he did, and probably according to his example, or the example of his and their common ancestors.

All this I shall prove, in the pursuit of this work. But before we come to speculation, intend to give an exact description of their several temples, and the like works; for such will be a good foundation for us to build upon. That we may proceed from things evident and more known, to those less known, and which we design to make evident, as well as we are able, and the nature of it will permit. A matter so immers’d in the dark mist of time, where very few scatter’d traces remain, must needs bespeak the reader’s candor. The dignity of the subject will excuse my boldness in attempting one so difficult. And however I succeed in accounting for these wonderful works; at least, I shall be instrumental in preserving their memory, in giving just drawings of them.

_Stonehenge_, by the extravagant grandeur of the work, has attracted the eyes and admiration of all ages. After the reformation, upon the revival of learning among us, the curious began to consider it more intimately, I cannot say successfully. Mr. _Camden_ rose as the sun of antiquity, that put out former lights, and, like _Cæsar_, affrights all that value a reputation, from attempting any thing in his way. His great skill in _Roman_ learning, and our _English_ history, only enabled him to be, as it were, silent on _Stonehenge_. He saw with excellent judgment, that neither _Roman_ nor _English_ had place there, or could serve to illustrate it. He writes modestly, as his manner was; “Of these things I am not able so much to give an accurate account, as mightily to grieve, that the founders of this noble monument cannot be trac’d out.” He could not persuade himself that either _Romans_, _Saxons_ or _Danes_ had any hand in it. And as for his representation of it in picture, I verily believe, it was drawn only from fancy or memory, or by some engraver from his oral description. _A. D._ 1620, king _James_ I. being at the earl of _Pembroke_’s seat at _Wilton_, and agreeably surpriz’d with the sight of _Stonehenge_, consulted the famous architect _Inigo Jones_, upon it; thinking it a matter in his way. This great man, who deservedly may be stiled the _English Vitruvius_, gave his opinion of it, as a _Roman_ work; and left, I suppose, some few indigested notes in writing there-upon. From which his son-in-law _John Webb_ compos’d an intire treatise, endeavouring to prove it. But they that are acquainted with _Roman_ architecture, or have consider’d _Stonehenge_, must needs be of a different opinion. And as my Lord Bishop of _London_ well observes, in his notes on _Camden_, “it cannot be safe to close with Mr. _Jones_, tho’ his book otherwise be a learned and ingenious piece.” _Inigo Jones_ lived 30 years after this, and yet Mr. _Webb_ makes an apology for his work, “that if he had surviv’d to have done it, with his own hand, it would have been better.” But ’tis very reasonably believ’d, that tho’ _Inigo Jones_ was an extraordinary genius in architecture, yet he wanted many qualifications for an author, especially in such a work as _Stonehenge_. ’Tis my opinion, that had his architectonic skill been united to Mr. _Camden_’s learning, he could never have demonstrated _Stonehenge_ to be a _Roman_ work. Afterwards, Dr. _Charlton_ publish’d a piece against _Webb_’s performance, and certainly has said enough to overthrow it, tho’ he could not with equal success establish his own opinion, that it was the work of the _Danes_. Whereas _Olaus Wormius_ finds no such monuments among the _Gothic_ nations: which, as Mr. _Toland_ observes, is answer sufficient to his allegation. _Webb_ answer’d the Doctor’s book, and by turns effectually demolish’d his opinion, but could not still vindicate his own. Yet from all their disputations, no spark was struck, towards a discovery of the real truth. What is the worst part in both performances of Mr. _Webb_, his representation of the real monument in his drawings, is fictitious. And, as Mr. _Aubry_ rightly observes, “in endeavouring to retrieve a piece of architecture in _Vitruvius_, he abuses the reader with a false representation of the whole.” It requires no great pains to prove this, nor need we take much time to be satisfy’d in it: the work is still extant. As soon as a judicious eye comes upon the spot, we discern that _Webb_’s equilateral triangles forming the cell are fancies: his three entrances across the ditch are so too; and that he has turn’d the cell a sixth part from its true situation, to favour his imaginary hypothesis. But ’tis against my inclination to find fault with the labours of others, nor do I thereby seek to bribe the reader in my own favour. I had a great pleasure for several years together, in viewing and examining these noble remains of our ancestors. What I wrote about them, was for my private amusement, and that of friends. And I publish them only for the honour of my country, and in hopes that such a publication will not be unserviceable to religion; which is my ultimate view.

_Stukeley. d._

_Prospect of the Roman Road & Wansdike just above Calston May 20, 1724. This demonstrates that Wansdike was made before the Roman Road._]

Tho’ _Stonehenge_ be the proudest singularity of this sort, in the world, as far as we know: yet there are so many others, manifestly form’d upon the same, or kindred design, by the same measure, and for the same purpose, all over the _Britanic_ isles; that we can have no room to doubt of their being made by the same people, and that by direction of the _British_ Druids. There are innumerable, from the land’s end in _Cornwall_, to the utmost northern promontory in _Scotland_, where the _Roman_ power never reach’d. They are to be found in all the islands between _Scotland_ and _Ireland_, isle of _Man_, all the _Orkney_ islands, _&c._ and numerous in _Ireland_ itself. And there is no pretence, as far as I can see, for any other persons or nations being the founders of them. They are circles of stones, generally rude, of different diameters, upon elevated ground, barren, open heaths and downs; chiefly made of stones taken from the surface of the ground. There are no remembrances of the founders, any other than an uninterrupted tradition of their being sacred; that there is medicinal virtue in them; that they were made by the _Irish_; that they were brought from _Afric_; that they were high-places of worship; sanctuaries; bowing, adoring places; and what names they commonly have, intimate the same thing. And in many places the express remembrance and name of Druids remain, and the people bury their dead in or near them to this day, thinking them holy ground. Mr. _Toland_ in his history of the Druids, p. 23. tells us, “In _Gealcossa_’s mount in _Inisoen_ in the county of _Dunegal_, a Druidess of that name lived; it signifies white-legg’d, according to the ancient manner in _Homer_’s time. On that hill is her grave and her temple, being a sort of diminutive _Stonehenge_, which the old _Irish_, at this day, dare not any way profane.” Many instances of this sort, of all these particulars, we have in our island: particularly the temple on _Temple-downs_ by _Abury_. Whatever is dug up in or near these works are manifestly remains of the Druid times; urns, bones, ornaments of amber, glass beads, snake-stones, amulets, celts, flint-hatchets, arrow-heads, and such things as bespeak the rudest ages, the utmost antiquity, most early plantations of people that came into our island, soon after _Noah_’s flood. I have all the reason in the world to believe them an oriental colony of _Phœnicians_; at least that such a one came upon the first _Celtic_ plantation of people here: which reasons will appear in the progress of this discourse. I suppose in matters of such extraordinary antiquity, it would be absurd to set about a formal demonstration; and those readers would be altogether unreasonable, that expect we prove every fact here, as they would do by living witnesses, before a court of judicature. When all is consider’d, that I have put together on this affair, a judicious person, I presume, will agree, I have made the matter sufficiently evident, and as much as the nature of things requires.

In the times just preceding the coming of the _Romans_ into _Britain_, the _Belgæ_, a most powerful colony from the _Gallic_ continent, had firmly seated themselves all over the country, where _Stonehenge_ is situate, quite to the southern sea; taking in the south part of _Wiltshire_, and all _Dorsetshire_. _Wiltshire_ has its name from the river _Willy_, which in _Welsh_ is _wyli_, in _Latin_, _vagire_, from its noise. A river of like name in _Northamptonshire_. Upon the former river at _Wilton_, probably liv’d the _Carvilius_, one of the four kings that fought _Julius Cæsar_, the picture of whose _tumulus_ we have given towards the end. {TAB. XXXIV.} The _Belgæ_ came into _Britain_ upon the south, as other _Celtic_ nations before had fix’d themselves from the east, _Kent_, the _Thames_, _&c._ such as the _Cantii_, _Segontiaci_, _Atrebates_, _&c._ so that in _Cæsar_’s time, all the south and east parts of _Britain_ were dispossess’d of their original inhabitants, and peopled from the continent: and this very work of _Stonehenge_ was in the hands of the _Belgæ_, who built it not. In my _itinerarium curiosum_, p. 181. I observ’d no less than four successive boundary ditches here, from the southern shore; which with good reason, I suppos’d, were made by the _Belgæ_, as they conquer’d the country by degrees, from the aboriginal inhabitants. This shews, they must have been a long while about it, that the _Britons_ disputed every inch of ground with them, and that for two reasons; as well because of the extraordinary beauty and goodness of the country, as fighting _pro aris & focis_ for their great temple of _Stonehenge_: not to speak of that other greater temple, a little more northward, at _Abury_. The _Segontiaci_ had got _Hampshire_, to the east of them, before, as far as the _Colinburn_ river, and the _Atrebates_, _Berkshire_. The first ditch runs between the river of _Blandford_, formerly _Alauna_, and the river of _Bere_, the piddle in _Dorsetshire_, two or three miles south of it. The second runs to the north of _Cranborn_ chase, upon the edge of _Wiltshire_, by _Pentridg_: it divides the counties of _Dorset_ and _Wilts_. The third is conspicuous upon _Salisbury_ plain, as we pass from _Wilton_ to _Stonehenge_, about the two-mile stone, north of _Wilton_: it is drawn between the river _Avon_ and the _Willy_, from _Dornford_ to _Newton_. The fourth is the more famous _Wansdike_, of great extent. _Gwahan_ in old _British_ signifies _separatio_, _distinctio_ guahanu _seperare_, and _that_ undoubtedly gave name to the ditch. The method of all these ditches, is, to take the northern edge of a ridge of hills, which is always steep; the bank is on the south side. And in my itinerary, p. 134. I show’d a most evident demonstration, that it was made before the time of the _Romans_, in the passage of the _Roman_ road down _Runway_ hill. TAB. II. _Wansdike_ is the last advanc’d post of the _Belgæ_ northwards, and that it was made after _Stonehenge_ was built, is plain, because the stones that compose the work, were brought from _Marlborough_ downs in north _Wiltshire_, beyond the dike; and as then in an enemy’s country. And most probably it was built before the _Belgæ_ set footing in _Britain_, because of the great number of barrows or sepulchral _tumuli_ about it, which, no doubt, were made for the burial of kings and great men.

_Stukeley delin._

_Prospect of_ STONEHENGE _from the East_.

_by Vespasians camp._]

The stones of which _Stonehenge_ is compos’d, beyond any controversy, came from those called the gray weathers, upon _Marlborough_ downs near _Abury_; where is that other most wonderful work of this sort, which I shall describe in my next volume. This is 15 or 16 miles off. All the greater stones are of that sort, except the altar, which is of a still harder, as design’d to resist fire. The pyramidals likewise are of a different sort, and much harder than the rest, like those of that other Druid temple call’d _the Weddings_, at _Stanton-drew_ in _Somersetshire_. Dr. _Halley_ was at _Stonehenge_ in the year 1720, and brought a piece of it to the Royal Society. I examin’d it with a microscope. ’Tis a composition of crystals of red, green and white colours, cemented together by nature’s art, with opake granules of flinty or stony matter. The Doctor observ’d from the general wear of the weather upon the stones, that the work must be of an extraordinary antiquity, and for ought he knew, 2 or 3000 years old. But had the Doctor been at _Abury_, which is made of the same stones, he might well from the like argumentation conclude, that work as old again as _Stonehenge_, at least much older, and I verily believe it. Nevertheless the current of so many ages has been more merciful to _Stonehenge_, than the insolence of rapacious hands, (besides the general saccage brought upon the work of old) by the unaccountable folly of mankind, in breaking pieces off with great hammers. This detestable practice arose from the silly notion of the stones being factitious. But, alas! it would be a greater wonder to make them by art, than to carry them 16 miles by art and strength; and those people must be inexcusable, that deface the monument for so trifling a fancy. Another argument of vulgar incogitancy, is, that all the wonder of the work consists, in the difficulty of counting the stones; and with that, the infinite numbers of daily visitants busy themselves. This seems to be the remains of superstition, and the notion of magic, not yet got out of peoples heads, since Druid-times. But indeed a serious view of this magnificent wonder, is apt to put a thinking and judicious person into a kind of ecstacy, when he views the struggle between art and nature, the grandeur of that art that hides itself, and seems unartful. For tho’ the contrivance that put this massy frame together, must have been exquisite, yet the founders endeavour’d to hide it, by the seeming rudeness of the work. The bulk of the constituent parts is so very great, that the mortaises and tenons must have been prepar’d to an extreme nicety, and, like the fabric of _Solomon_’s temple, every stone tally’d; and neither axes nor hammers were heard upon the whole structure. Nevertheless there is not a stone at _Stonehenge_, that felt not, more or less, both ax and hammer of the founders. Yet ’tis highly entertaining to consider the judicious carelesness therein, really the grand gusto, like a great master in drawing, secure of the effect: a true master-piece. Every thing proper, bold, astonishing. The lights and shades adapted with inconceivable justness. Notwithstanding the monstrous size of the work, and every part of it; ’tis far from appearing heavy: ’tis compos’d of several species of work, and the proportions of the dissimilar parts recommend the whole, and it pleases like a magical spell. No one thinks any part of it too great or too little, too high or too low. And we that can only view it in its ruins, the less regret those ruins, that, if possible, add to its solemn majesty.

The stones of the gray weathers are of a bastard sort of white marble, and lie upon the surface of the ground, in infinite numbers, and of all dimensions. They are loose, detach’d from any rock, and doubtless lay there ever since the creation. Being solid parts thrown out to the surface of the fluid globe, when its rotation was first impress’d. All our Druid temples are built, where these sort of stones from the surface can be had at reasonable distances; for they are never taken from quarries. Here is a very good quarry at _Chilmark_ in this country. _Salisbury_ cathedral, and all the great buildings are thence; but ’tis a stone quite different to our work. It was a matter of much labour to draw them hither, 16 miles. My friend the reverend Dr. _Stephen Hales_, the excellent author of vegetable statics, and other works, computed them as follows. The stone at the upper end of the cell, which is fallen down and broke in half, is in length (says he) 25 feet, in breadth 7 feet, and in thickness at a medium 3½, amounts to 612 cubic feet. Now a cubic foot of _Hedington_ stone weighs near 154¼ pounds troy. If _Stonehenge_ stone be of the same specific gravity, it will amount to 94,348 pounds, which is 31½ tuns. But if this be of the same specific gravity as _Burford_ stone, which weighs to 155¾ the cubic foot, then it will weigh 95319 pounds troy, or 32 tuns. If it be equal to _Blaidon_ stone, which is 187 pounds troy _per_ cubic foot, then it weighs 114444 pounds troy, or 38 tuns. But I am sure that the stone is of considerably larger dimensions, than what Dr. _Hales_ has stated it at, and that the sort of stone is much heavier than that of the largest specific gravity he speaks of, and that it amounts to more than 40 tuns, and requires more than 140 oxen to draw it; yet this is not the heaviest stone at the place.

The notion we ought to entertain of _Stonehenge_ is not a little enhanc’d, by the discovery I made from frequent mensurations there. It gave me the opportunity of finding out the standard and original measure, which the people us’d, who made this and all other works of this kind. And this precludes any tedious disputation against the opinion of authors; for whoever makes any eminent building, most certainly forms it upon the common measure in use, among the people of that place. Therefore if the proportions of _Stonehenge_ fall into fractions and uncouth numbers, when measur’d by the _English_, _French_, _Roman_, or _Grecian_ foot, we may assuredly conclude, the architects were neither _English_, _French_, _Roman_ or _Greeks_. Thus, for instance, when the accurate _Greaves_ tells us, the door of the _Pantheon_ (which is of one stone) is of _English_ foot-measure 19 foot 602/1000 within: should we not be apt to assert at first sight, that the architect in so costly a work, did not chuse his measures at random, but intended that this dimension should be 20 feet? When we consider this building is at _Rome_, and that it amounts to 20 _Roman_ feet, must we not conclude, it was erected by the _Roman_ standard? adding too, that all the rest of the dimensions of this stately structure fall aptly and judiciously into the same scale. So as long as any _vestigia_ of St. _Paul_’s cathedral remain, the _English_ foot, by which it was built, will easily be known. I must prepare the reader for a right understanding of our Druid edifices, by informing him, that _Stonehenge_, and all other works of this nature in our island, are erected by that most ancient measure call’d a cubit, which we read of in the holy scriptures, and in ancient profane authors. I mean the same individual measure, call’d the _Hebrew_, _Egyptian_, _Phœnician_ cubit; most probably deriv’d from _Noah_ and _Adam_. ’Tis the same that the pyramids of _Egypt_ and other their works are projected upon; the same as that of _Moses_’s tabernacle, _Solomon_’s temple, _&c._ and we may reasonably pride ourselves in possessing these visible monuments of the old measure of the world. My predecessor Bishop _Cumberland_ shows, enough to satisfy us, that the _Egyptian_ and _Hebrew_ measure was the same, tho’ he has not hit upon that measure, to a nicety. My friend and collegue Dr. _Arbuthnot_ has been more successful, in applying it to such parts of the greater pyramid, as evidently establish its proportion, to our _English_ foot, from the measures _Greaves_ has left us: and shows it to be 20 inches and ⅘ of _English_ measure. Thus the Doctor observes the side of the greater pyramid at base, is 693 _English_ feet; which amounts exactly to 400 _Egyptian_ cubits, a full and suitable number for such a square work, and without question the originally design’d measure, the _stadium_ of old. I have taken notice that _Inigo Jones_ observ’d the like dimensions, in laying out the plot of _Lincoln_’s_-Inn-fields_. The Doctor adds many more instances, deduc’d in the same way, to confirm it. I add, that _Greaves_ says, the lowermost steps of the pyramid are near 4 feet in height, which amounts to 2 cubits and 2 palms. They are 3 foot in breadth, _i. e._ 1 cubit 4 palms. The length of the declining first entrance is 92 feet and an half, _i. e._ 55 cubits. The length of the next gallery is 110 feet, which amounts to 60 cubits. There is another gallery in the pyramid, of the same length. Mr. _Webb_ says the diameter of _Stonehenge_ is 110 feet. This would tempt one to suspect the same measure us’d in both. Thus the diameter of the like work at _Rowldrich_ in _Oxfordshire_, describ’d by Dr. _Plot_, is 35 yards, _i. e._ 110 feet, grossly measur’d. Father _Brothais_ in his observations on upper _Egypt_, in our _Phil. Trans._ found a door-case made of one stone, in a magnificent building, it was 26½ feet in height, this is 15 cubits. Dr. _Huntington_, in the same _Trans._ says, he found the sphynx standing by the northern pyramids to be 110 feet in circuit, _i. e._ 60 cubits. _Ptolomy_ in his IVth book, and _Pliny_ XXXVI.——speak of the obelisk rais’d by king _Rameses_ at _Heliopolis_, which Mr. _Webb_, p. 34. gives the length of in _English_ feet, 136. This is 80 cubits. That which _Augustus_ set up in the _circus maximus_ at _Rome_ upon reduction of _Egypt_, _Webb_ says, is 120 feet 9 inches, which amounts to 70 cubits. Another, _Augustus_ set up in the _campus martius_, which he says is 9 foot higher, _i. e._ 5 cubits. He speaks again of that erected by _Fontana_ before St. _Peter_’s, 81 feet, which was 50 cubits. I suppose the base being injur’d, it was cut a little shorter. This at the base, he says, is 9 foot square, _i. e._ 5 cubits. The _Vatican_ obelisk is 170 foot high, which is 100 cubits. 12 foot broad at bottom, which is 7 cubits; at top a third part less.

Hence we gather, the measure of the shew-bread table of the _Jews_, a cubit and half in height, _Exod._ xxv. 23. It had a golden crown about it, meaning a moulding, or verge or cornish, as upon our tea-tables. זר _peripheria_, _corona_, because 12 loaves were to be pil’d upon it. It was 31 inches in height, that of our ordinary eating-tables. And we shall find by this same cubit divided into its 6 tophach’s or palms, all our Druid works are perform’d. ’Tis not to be wonder’d at, that it should come into _Britain_, with an eastern colony under the conduct of the _Egyptian_, _Tyrian_, _Phœnician Hercules_, (who was the same person) about _Abraham_’s time, or soon after, as I have good reasons to believe, which will be shown in its proper place.

_Stukeley delin_ _Toms sculp._

_A View a little beyond Woodyates where the Ikening Street crosses part of a Druids barrow Jun. 9. 1724._]

CHAP. II.

_Of the name of_ Stonehenge. _These works prior to the_ Roman
_times. Who were the builders? Of the general situation of it,
again. Of the beauty of its general proportion. A peep into
it. A walk round the_ area. _Remarks on two stones standing on
the_ vallum, _and two corresponding cavities for water vases:
explained from ancient coins. That the_ Welsh _are the remains
of the_ Belgæ _from the continent, who lived here at the_ Roman
_invasion, and by whose reports,_ Stonehenge _was built by the
most ancient oriental colony, that brought the_ Druids _hither._

Come we to the name of _Stonehenge_, so call’d by our _Saxon_ ancestors; an argument sufficient, they were not the builders of it; they would have called it by a more honourable name. Roꝺe henᵹenne is in _Saxon_ a hanging-rod or pole, _i. e._ a gallows; and _Stonehenge_ is a stone gallows, called so from the hanging parts, architraves, or rather imposts, the more remarkable part; and which only can persuade people from thinking, the stones _grew_ in the very place, (as they express it.) And so Mr. _Camden_, Dr. _Holland_, Mr. _Webb_ and others think, of the wonderful work at _Abury_; because there are none of these overthwart stones, as here. Many are so astonished at the bulk of these stones, that measuring all art and power by their own, they had rather think, they sprouted up in their places, like mushrooms, at regular distances, in mathematical circles; than that they were plac’d there by human industry, for excellent purpose. But pendulous rocks are now called _henges_ in _Yorkshire_, and I have been informed of another place there called _Stonehenge_, being natural rocks. So that I doubt not, _Stonehenge_ in _Saxon_ signifies the hanging stones. In _Cornwall_ is a Heath call’d now _Hengston_ down, probably from such a work as ours, now demolished. It is in the hundred of _Easte_. And near it, is that other memorable Antiquity, composed of many upright stones, call’d the Hurlers, a Druid temple. The old _Britons_ or _Welsh_ call _Stonehenge_ _choir gaur_, which some interpret _chorea gigantum_, the giants dance: I judge, more rightly _chorus magnus_, the great choir, round church, or temple. As Banchor (where probably was of old, another Druid temple) means the high temple. But they mistake it for _chorea_, _chwarae_ _χuare_, a ball, dance; as _Necham_ sings;

_Nobilis est lapidum structura, chorea gigantum:
Ars experta suum posse, peregit opus._

Mr. _Camden_ defines the work _coronæ in modum_. The Latin _corona_ a crown, _corolla_ a _ghirland_, and the _British crown_ comes from its circular form, as _côr_ _chorus_. The armoric _Britons_ call _cryn_ _rotundus_, _kruin_ the _Irish_. _Coryn_ is the round tip of any thing, many such like words in all the _Celtic_ dialects. The _chorus_ of a building among _Roman_ christians, became appropriate to the more sacred part, or east end of churches, always turn’d of a circular form; from the time of _Constantine_ the Great. Thus all the churches in the holy land, thus the chapel in _Colchester_ castle, and in the _Tower_ of _London_, (both, in my opinion, built about his time) are round at the east end. The old _Britons_ or _Welsh_, we find, had a notion of its being a sacred place, tho’ they were not the builders of it; for I take them to be the remains of the _Celtic_ people that came from the continent, who chiefly inhabited _England_, at least the south part, when the _Romans_ invaded the island, they are more particularly the remains of the _Belgæ_. I suppose their name _Welsh_, a corruption of _Belgæ_, Οὐέλγαι in greek,_ ►Belgischen◄ _and_ ►Welschen◄ _in german. _Strabo_ IV. speaks of their way of making flannel, called λαιναί, for which our _Welsh_ are so famous. _Strabo_ gives the celtic word without the guttural aspirate, _chlæna_ in latin. The most ancient inhabitants, the remains of the old _Phœnician_ colony and primitive _Celts_ who built _Stonehenge_, were the _Picts_, _Scots_, _Highland_ and _Irish_, all the same people, tho’ perhaps differing somewhat in dialect, as in situation: no otherwise than a _Cumberland_-man and one of _Somersetshire_ now. The _Cornish_, I suppose, some remains too, of the old oriental race. But at this very day in _Wales_, they call every antiquated appearance beyond memory, _Irish_. Upon view of land, that from before any ones remembrance appears to have been plow’d, or very ancient ruins of buildings, and the like, they immediately pronounce, That it was in the times of the _Irish_. The very same is observable in the north, of the _Picts_ or _Pights_, as they pronounce it, gutturally, in the oriental fashion, which we cannot imitate. They call old foundations, _Pights_ houses, _&c._ Every thing is _Pictish_, whose origin they do not know. These people are conscious, that they are not the _Aborigines_, who by time and successive inundations, were forc’d northward and westward, into _Scotland_ and _Ireland_. And also in the days of the _Romans_, such of the then inhabitants as would not submit to their gentile yoke, took the same road. The _Irish_ therefore, or ancient _Scottish_, is the remnant of the _Phœnician_ language, mixt with old _Biscayan_ and _Gallic_, dialects of _Celts_; and some oriental, _Arabic_ in particular: as Mr. _Toland_ observes. And they are the descendants of the people who built _Stonehenge_, and the like Works. Whence spring the strange reports of these stones, coming from _Egypt_, from _Africa_, from _Spain_, from _Ireland_. As retaining some memory of the steps, by which the people who preceded their ancestors, travelled; nor they themselves, nor even the _Belgæ_ pretending to be the builders of this wonderful work. For the _Belgæ_ could not be ignorant of their own coming from the _Gallic_ continent.

_Stukeley delin._ _G. Vander Gucht Senl_

_The Front view of_ STONEHENGE.]

I have taken notice of another remarkable particular, as to the name of _Stonehenge_; which I apprehend to be of highest antiquity: that it was called the _Ambres_, or _Ambrose_, as the famous _main Ambre_ by _Pensans_ in _Cornwall_, another work of the Druids akin to this. And from hence the adjacent town of _Ambresbury_ had its name. But of this matter, I must beg the readers patience, till I come to the last chapter, and discourse of the antiquity of these works in general.

So much at present as to the name of our fabrick; it is time to draw toward the sacred pile, and fancy ourselves walking upon this delightful plain:

——————————_juvat arva videre
Non rastris hominum, non ulli obnoxia curæ._ Virg.

nought can be sweeter than the air that moves o’re this hard and dry, chalky soil. Every step you take upon the smooth carpet, (literally) your nose is saluted with the most fragrant smell of _serpillum_, and _apium_, which with the short grass continually cropt by the flocks of sheep, composes the softest and most verdant turf, extremely easy to walk on, and which rises as with a spring, under ones feet. The following drawing TAB. III. is a prospect taken from the king’s barrow, west from _Vespasian_’s camp, in the way from _Ambresbury_ to _Stonehenge_, by the _Bristol_ road. Tho’ the graver has not done it justice: yet it will give one a general notion of the situation of the place. It is admirably chosen, being in the midst of those wide downs, call’d _Salisbury_ plain; between the river _Avon_ to the east, and a brook that runs into the _Willy_, on the west. These two streams half round encompass it, at 2 miles distance, forming as it were a circular area, of 4 or 5 miles diameter, compos’d of gentle acclivities and declivities, open and airy. Yet agreeably diversify’d with the appearance of barrows, every where upon the edges of the highest grounds. Which very barrows are curious and entertaining, when view’d at hand, as well for the nicety and handsome turn of their forms, as for their great variety, and all within sight of the temple. These downs feed many flocks of sheep, and no doubt furnish’d the idea of _Thessalian_ and _Arcadian_ plains, to the noble _Sydney_ residing at the neighbouring _Wilton_. The rivers are planted very thick with towns. Six miles south of _Stonehenge_ is _Salisbury_, a mile nearer is _Sorbiodunum_, or old _Sarum_, by the side of which passes the _Roman_ road _via Iceniana_ reaching from _Norfolk_, into _Dorsetshire_. As this road goes southward, a mile beyond _Woodyates_, where it enters _Dorsetshire_ and _Cranburn_ chase, it passes over a heath where are many old barrows, like these on _Salisbury_ plain. It happens there, to infringe upon one of the barrows, which luckily affords us a demonstration, of the road being made since those barrows; of which I took notice in my _itinerarium_ p. 180. and further to gratify the curious have here inserted a print of it TAB. IV. and may take the opportunity once for all to advertize them, of the disadvantage under which all drawings from these plains must appear. They are made for use and instruction, like mathematical figures, and cannot be expected much to please the eye; being form’d chiefly from bare lines, admitting no picture-like decoration.

I have observ’d another similar proof of these works being older than the _Roman_ times here, in that _Roman_ road that goes from _Marlborough_ to _Bath_. It is near _Abury_, and I have a print of it engrav’d, which will be exhibited, when I next publish an account of that great work. But in the former _plate_ IV. I call those Druid barrows, which are often found on these plains: a circular trench, sometime of 100 foot diameter, with only a small tump of earth in the middle, under which there is commonly an urn. Sometime two or three of these little tumps or diminutive _tumuli_ within one circle, which it is natural to suppose, were friends or relations. These circles are always excellently well mark’d out.

The particular spot of ground where _Stonehenge_ stands, is in the lordship of west or little _Ambresbury_: the possession of the reverend Mr. _Hayward_, who at present may be call’d the Archdruid of the island. ’Tis a delicate part of this large plain, with a gentle declivity from the south-west to the south and north-east. So that the soil, which is chalk, is perfectly dry and hard. Hence the infinite numbers of coaches and horses, that thro’ so many centuries have been visiting the place every day, have not obliterated the track of the banks and ditches. The water cannot possibly rest any where hereabouts. The founders consulted well for the stability of their work, and salubrity of the place. _Cæsar_ informs us in his commentaries, B. G. VI. 13. that among the Druids, “one has the supreme authority. When he is dead, whoever excels in dignity succeeds. But if there be more candidates, the Archdruid is chose by the votes of the Druids: and sometimes they fight for it. At a certain fix’d time of the year the _Gaulish_ Druids meet, in the territories of the _Carnutes_, which country is in the middle of _Gaul, in a consecrated place_. Hither all persons from all quarters come, who have any controversy, and stand to their determination. The discipline of the Druids arose in _Britain_, and is said from thence to have been brought into _Gaul_. And now, they who design to be more thoroughly initiated therein, go over to learn.” Here in few lines the great author acquaints us with a vast fund of ancient history, and upon which whole volumes have been wrote. I observe no more from it at present, than that we may very reasonably conclude, the elegant and the magnificent structure of _Stonehenge_ was as the metropolitical church of the chief Druid of _Britain_. This was the _locus consecratus_ where they met at some great festivals in the year, as well to perform the extraordinary sacrifices and religious rites, as to determine causes and civil matters. _Cæsar_ calls these appointments of the Druids in _Gaul_ consecrated places, where probably was nothing but a circle of rude stones. Had he seen those of our island, an _Abury_ or even a _Stonehenge_, he would scarce have given them the title of temples: he was not used to the old patriarchal way. But I reckon the true reading in that passage quoted from him, to be _loco consecrato_, not _luco_, which was put in by some bold transcriber, who had heard of the fondness of the Druids for groves. But how unfit is a grove for a great and public meeting upon civil affairs? And this for the excellency of its situation upon a vast plain, was well calculated for a publick meeting of those of the order, at an election of a new Archdruid. As _Cæsar_’s words give light to the work before us, so it confirms what the warlike author says, of the discipline being originally in _Britain_; which the critics upon the continent cannot bear, and vainly endeavour to spirit away _Cæsar_’s meaning. The very building of _Stonehenge_, to say nothing of other like works here, shows it was not in vain, that the youth of _Gaul_ came to learn of men, who could contrive and execute so mighty a work.

_Stonehenge_ stands not upon the very summit of a hill, but pretty near it, and for more than three quarters of the circuit you ascend to it very gently from lower ground. At half a mile distance, the appearance of it is stately and awful, really august. As you advance nearer, especially up the avenue, which is to the north-east of it, (which side is now most perfect) the greatness of its contour fills the eye in an astonishing manner. TAB. V. is the front prospect from the entrance of the avenue. The stone that leans o’er the high altar appears thro’ the grand or principal entrance: because we stand upon lower ground. If the reader pleases to cast his eye upon _Plate_ XII. there ’tis represented in orthography, (to speak technically) as here in prospect. Hence by this method of comparing the designs together, we may, without confusion, gather a true notion of the work. _Stonehenge_ is a good deal more in diameter, than the outside of St. _Paul_’s cupola. And from a comparison of these two buildings, I was able to judge of the vanity of the architect of St. _Peter_’s at _Rome_, who in order to degrade the _Pantheon_, (whilst he was imitating it) boasted, he would set the _Pantheon_ 200 foot high in the air, meaning the cupola there. But the architect of the _Pantheon_, _Valerius Ostiensis_ (had he been alive) would have told him, that the vastness of the diameter in these cupola’s is lost by the very height. Whatever we would have admired, ought to be preserved as the largest dimension. Therefore _Valerius_, with admirable judgment, has made the outward breadth of the _Pantheon_ one fifth part compleatly longer than its height, taken in front; but if we measure it sidewise, taking in the portico, the breadth to the height, is more than 6 to 4. By this means the wonder of the _Pantheon_, the curve or arch 150 _Roman_ feet in diameter, remains. So the curve of _Stonehenge_, which is above 100 _English_ feet, appears extraordinary large and well proportion’d, upon a height of 18 foot, which reaches to the top of the outer cornish; that of the inner cornishes is but 24 foot high, at a medium. For the cornishes of the inner part of _Stonehenge_, or that which _Webb_ calls the cell, are not all of equal height, of which in proper place. Thus both parts of the wonder is preserv’d, the greatness of the circuit of the whole work, the greatness and height of the parts that compose it; the height being one fourth of the diameter. The greatness too of the lights and shades in _Stonehenge_, as well as their variety arising from a circular form, gives it all possible advantage, and makes it deserve the appellation of,

_Deorum gloriosa domus_,

as _Theocritus_ and _Herodotus_ generally call temples. And its situation is correspondent to the antient notion. _Pausanias_ praises the _Tanagrei_ in _Beotia_, for having their temples in clean and distinct area’s, distant from profane buildings and traffic.

_Stonehenge_ is inclosed within a circular ditch. After one has pass’d this ditch, says the right reverend annotator to _Camden_, he ascends 35 yards before he comes at the work itself. This measure is the same, as that which _Webb_ calls 110 foot, the diameter of the work. For the area inclos’d by a ditch, wherein _Stonehenge_ is situate, is in diameter three times the diameter of _Stonehenge_. See the _Plate_ of the _area_. XXIII. Therefore the distance between the verge of the ditch within side, quite round, to the work of the Temple, is equal to the diameter of the Temple. The reader remembers what I promis’d, about the scale or measure whereby this work and all others of the Druids, is form’d; that ’tis the old _Hebrew_, _Phœnician_ or _Egyptian_ Cubit, which compar’d with the _English_ foot, amounts to 20 inches and ⅘. Therefore I have drawn the ensuing comparison and proportion, between our _English_ and _Hebrew_ Scale; which is to accompany us in the future description. TAB. VI. the scale of cubits and feet compar’d. That I might not be suspected to favour an hypothesis, I produce other peoples measures, where I can find them in print, provided they be done with tolerable judgment and accuracy; for both are necessary in our case, with proper allowance. ’Tis not to be suppos’d, that in this work, the minuteness and extreme curiosity of _Desgodetz_, with which he measur’d the remains of old _Rome_, is expected, or even possible. For tho’ the stones are not chizel’d and squar’d, to such preciseness, as _Roman_ works are; yet they are chizel’d, and are far from rude. Nevertheless every body has not skill, properly to measure them. For they are much impair’d by weather: much is knock’d off by wretched hands. Those stones that stand, are luxated various ways, by time and their own weight; by silly people digging about them, and by the unfortunate colony of rabbets lately translated thither. So that we may well say with _Claudian_,

_Seram ponderibus pronis tractura ruinam,
Pars cadit assiduo flatu, pars imbre peresa
Rumpitur, abripuit partem vitiosa vetustas._

I was forc’d to make many admeasurements and repeated, before I could obtain an exact ground-plot; and it requir’d much consideration to do it, and to find out the true scale by which it was compos’d, the Druid cubit, which they brought with them from the east. Therefore by the annexed scales, TAB. VI. which I have contriv’d to answer all lengths, the reader will most perfectly understand the subsequent description, and see the truth of my assertion: and may from thence be enabled to measure any other like works, in our islands, which I have not had the opportunity of viewing. It was the eastern way, in laying out a building, to use a staff of 6 cubits long. This was of a convenient, manageable length; and its divisions being half a dozen, suited well a reckoning by duodenaries. Thus in _Ezek._ xl. 3, 5. _Apoc._ xxi. 16. the angel that laid out the temple of _Solomon_, is described, as having a reed of 6 cubits (a measuring reed or cane) in his hand. This being the universal and first measure of antiquity, was in time spread all over the world. In particular, it became the _decempedum_ of the _Greeks_ and _Romans_; the common measuring standard. But ’tis remarkable, they alter’d the divisions, thinking it more artful and convenient to have them in less parts: and instead of 6 cubits, they made it consist of 10 feet. And by time and change, the whole measure became somewhat alter’d from the primitive. For the _Greek decempedum_ was swell’d somewhat too long, as the _Romans_ diminish’d theirs a little. _Ezekiel_’s reed is our 10 foot and 4 inches ⅔; 400 cubits is the _stadium_ of the ancients, or furlong, 700 feet.

When you enter the building, whether on foot or horseback and cast your eyes around, upon the yawning ruins, you are struck into an exstatic _reverie_, which none can describe, and they only can be sensible of, that feel it. Other buildings fall by piece meal, but here a single stone is a ruin, and lies like the haughty carcase of _Goliath_. Yet there is as much of it undemolished, as enables us sufficiently to recover its form, when it was in its most perfect state. There is enough of every part to preserve the idea of the whole. The next _Plate_, TAB. VII. the peep (as I call it) into the _sanctum sanctorum_, is drawn, at the very entrance, and as a view into the inside. When we advance further, the dark part of the ponderous imposts over our heads, the chasm of sky between the jambs of the cell, the odd construction of the whole, and the greatness of every part, surprizes. We may well cry out in the poet’s words

_Tantum Relligio potuit!_

if you look upon the perfect part, you fancy intire quarries mounted up into the air: if upon the rude havock below, you see as it were the bowels of a mountain turn’d inside outwards. It is pleasant likewise to consider the spot upon which ’tis situate, and to take a circular view of the country around it. For which purpose I have sketch’d the following prospects, taking in the country almost round the circumference of the horizon. This Use there will be in them further; if ever it happen, that this noble work should be destroy’d: the spot of it may be found, by these views.

TAB. VIII. north prospect from _Stonehenge_.

TAB. IX. south-west prospect from _Stonehenge_.

TAB. X. south-east prospect from _Stonehenge_.

_Stukeley d._

_A peep into the sanctum sanctorum 6 June. 1724_]

The _vallum_ of the ditch which incloses the _area_, or court, is inwards, and makes a circular terras; walking upon which, we take the foregoing prospects. The lowest part of the _area_ is towards the entrance. The tops of all the circumjacent hills, or rather easy elevations, are cover’d o’re, as it were, with barrows, which cause an agreeable appearance; adorning the bare downs with their figures. And this ring of barrows reaches no further, than till you lose sight of the temple, or thereabouts. Stand at the grand entrance by the stone that lies upon the ground, and the view of the temple presents itself as in the Vth _Plate_, the front prospect of _Stonehenge_. Directly down the avenue, to the north-east, the apex of an hill terminates the horizon, between which and the bottom of a valley you see the _Cursus_, a work which has never yet been taken notice of. Being a space of ground included between two long banks going parallel east and west, at 350 foot distance, the length 10000 feet. This was design’d for the horse races and games, like the _Olympic_, the _Isthmian_, &c. of the _Greeks_. But we shall speak more particularly of this afterwards. In the valley on this side of it, the strait part of the avenue terminates in two branches; that on the left hand, leads to the _Cursus_; that on the right goes directly up the hill, between two famous groups of barrows, each consisting of seven in number. The farthest, or those northward, I call the oldest king’s barrows; the hithermost are vulgarly called the seven king’s graves.

If we walk a little to the left hand, TAB. VIII. is presented. See the northern long barrow: on this side of which, the eye takes in the whole length of the _Cursus_. Many barrows at the end and on both sides of it. That mark’d P. was open’d by my Lord _Pembroke_, those mark’d S. were open’d by myself. What was discover’d therein will be treated of hereafter. Further to the west, the highest ground of that spot whereon _Stonehenge_ stands, eclipses a distant view, and there are the nearest barrows planted with rabbets, which do much damage too at _Stonehenge_, and threaten no less than the ruin of the whole. Upon the _vallum_ of _Stonehenge_ is one of the stones there, which seems to be a small altar, for some kind of libations, and at the letter A. the mark of a cavity; of which more particularly, in the next page. The next or south-west prospect, TAB. IX. from _Stonehenge_, takes in the country from _Berwickbarn_, and my Lord _Pembroke_’s wood of _Groveley_, to _Salisbury_ steeple: a chain of barrows reaching a 6th part of the whole horizon. Many from the great quantity of these sepulchral _tumuli_ here, injudiciously conclude, that there have been great battels upon the plain, and that the slain were bury’d there. But they are really no other than family burying-places, set near this temple, for the same reason as we bury in church-yards and consecrated ground. _Salisbury_ steeple seen from hence, brings to my sorrowful remembrance, the great _Thomas_ Earl of _Pembroke_, whose noble ashes are there deposited. He was patron of my studies, particularly those relating to _Stonehenge_. Virtue, piety, magnanimity, learning, generosity, all sublime qualities recommended and added to his illustrious descent. Glorious it will be for me, if these pages live to testify to another age, the intimacy he was pleased to honour me with.

——————_quis talia fando
Temperet a lachrymis_————————!

In this _Plate_, the reader may remark another of the cavities within the _vallum_, to which that corresponds on the opposite diameter before hinted at.